CN107106433A - 半透明的毛发调理组合物 - Google Patents
半透明的毛发调理组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN107106433A CN107106433A CN201680005794.8A CN201680005794A CN107106433A CN 107106433 A CN107106433 A CN 107106433A CN 201680005794 A CN201680005794 A CN 201680005794A CN 107106433 A CN107106433 A CN 107106433A
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种毛发调理组合物,所述毛发调理组合物包含:阳离子表面活性剂;具有25℃或更高熔点的高熔点脂肪族化合物;具有约1.30至约1.70折射率的材料;和含水载体,其中所述组合物具有至少约0.5%的透光率。所述阳离子表面活性剂为单长链烷基胺和酸的盐,尤其是酰氨基胺如硬脂酰氨基丙基二甲胺的盐。具有所述指定折射率的材料优选为具有至少3个羟基基团的多元醇,或含量按所述组合物的重量计高于30%至约80%的多元醇。所述组合物提供半透明的外观和调理有益效果,尤其是用作洗去型调理剂时湿发上的调理有益效果和/或毛发上的铺展性。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及毛发调理组合物,所述组合物包含:阳离子表面活性剂;具有25℃或更高熔点的高熔点脂肪族化合物;具有约1.30至约1.70折射率的材料;和含水载体,其中所述组合物具有至少约0.5%的透光率,并且其中所述阳离子表面活性剂为单长链烷基胺和酸的盐。
背景技术
已经开发了多种方法来调理毛发。一种提供调理有益效果的常用方法是通过使用调理剂,诸如阳离子表面活性剂和聚合物、高熔点脂肪族化合物、低熔点油、硅氧烷化合物、以及它们的混合物。已知大多数这些调理剂提供多种调理有益效果。
例如,Kose的未审查的日本专利申请H10-7532涉及毛发调理组合物,所述组合物包含0.1-8重量%的固体脂肪醇,0.1-5重量%的液体脂肪醇,0.1-5重量%的阳离子表面活性剂,5-30重量%的多元醇,和0.1-20重量%的硅氧烷衍生物。该Kose公布还公开了所述组合物的比较例,其包含6%的鲸蜡醇,3%的油醇,3%的脱甲基聚硅氧烷,1%的硬脂基三甲基氯化铵,和50%的丙二醇(比较例10)。据称,该比较例10的组合物在施用期间的感觉稍微令人不满。
另外,需要具有透明和/或半透明外观的调理组合物。例如,Sakamoto YakuhinKogyo的未审查的日本专利申请2001-181142涉及透明的毛发护理化妆品组合物,所述组合物包含3-30重量%的甘油和/或聚甘油,1-10重量%的聚醚改性硅氧烷,0.1-5重量%的阳离子高分子量化合物,和0.1-5重量%的阳离子表面活性剂。另一个示例是Helen Curtis的美国专利5328685,其涉及透明的毛发调理组合物,所述组合物包含:(a)按重量计约0.4%至约15%的酰氨基胺盐;(b)按重量计约0.1%至约5%的具有至少两个季铵部分的硅氧烷化合物;和(c)含水载体。所述美国专利还公开,所述载体主要为水,但是也可包括有机溶剂,并且在实施例中公开了透明调理组合物,所述组合物包含10%己二醇和4%丙二醇,以及酰氨基胺、乳酸和硅氧烷。另外,存在Crabtree&Evelyn的称为“La Source”的调理剂产品示例,其包含十六烷基三甲基氯化铵、鲸蜡醇、甘油、丁二醇,但具有低得多的透光率(为约0.04%至约0.06%)。
另外,H.Akatsuka等人在Col.Surf.A 326(2008)169-174中公开了多元醇对包括二十二烷基三甲基氯化铵(C22TAC)、1-十八醇(C18OH)的三元体系流变性的效应,以改善对剪切力的稳定性,而且还公开,将20-80重量%的丙二醇或甘油加入到包含2重量%二十二烷基三甲基氯化铵和4重量%1-十八醇的体系中。具有多元醇的此类体系的透光率未描述于该公布中,然而考虑到该公布中图8所示的双层重复距离,认为所述透光率低。
然而,仍需要此类调理组合物以提供半透明外观和调理有益效果,尤其是用作洗去型调理剂时对湿发的调理有益效果和/或在毛发上的铺展性。
没有任何现有技术能够提供本发明的全部优点和益处。
发明内容
本发明涉及毛发调理组合物,所述毛发调理组合物包含:
(a)阳离子表面活性剂;
(b)具有25℃或更高熔点的高熔点脂肪族化合物;
(c)具有约1.30至约1.70折射率的材料;和
(d)含水载体
其中所述组合物具有至少约0.5%的透光率,
并且其中所述阳离子表面活性剂为单长链烷基胺和酸的盐。
本发明的组合物提供半透明外观和调理有益效果,尤其是用作洗去型调理剂时对湿发的调理有益效果和/或在毛发上的铺展性。
通过阅读以下描述和所附权利要求书,将更好地理解本发明的这些和其它的特征、方面和优点。
具体实施方式
虽然本说明书以特别指出并清楚地要求保护本发明的权利要求书作为结尾,但据信通过下列说明可更好地理解本发明。
本文中,“包括”是指可加入不影响最终结果的其它步骤和其它成分。该术语涵盖术语“由…组成”和“基本上由…组成”。
除非另外说明,所有百分比、份数和比率均基于本发明组合物的总重量计。所有涉及所列成分的这些重量均基于活性物质的含量,因此不包括可能包含在可商购获得的物质中的载体或副产物。
本文中,“混合物”是指包括材料的简单组合以及可由它们的组合产生的任何化合物。
毛发调理组合物
本发明的毛发调理组合物包含阳离子表面活性剂、高熔点脂肪族化合物、具有较高折射率的材料如多元醇、和含水载体。所述阳离子表面活性剂、高熔点脂肪族化合物、具有较高折射率的材料如多元醇、和含水载体为乳液形式。
在所述组合物中,考虑到在调理有益效果与半透明产品外观之间提供平衡,阳离子表面活性剂和高熔点脂肪族化合物的总量优选为约1.5%至约10%,更优选约2.0%至约8.0%,还更优选约2.5%至约6.0%。
透光率
本发明的组合物具有半透明产品外观。所述组合物在25℃下具有至少约0.5%,优选至少约1.0%,更优选至少约1.5%,并且优选多至约40%,更优选多至约30%,还更优选多至约20%的透光率。该透光率针对于所述组合物,即可包含附加成分如硅氧烷、香料和/或防腐剂的最终产品制剂。
包含此类附加成分之前的组合物基料的透光率可更高。因此,所述组合物基料仅由阳离子表面活性剂、高熔点脂肪族化合物、具有较高折射率的材料如多元醇、和含水载体组成。所述组合物基料在25℃下具有优选至少约5%,更优选至少约7%,还更优选至少约10%,并且优选多至约40%,更优选多至约30%,还更优选多至约25%的透光率。
本发明的透光率为总透光率,它是扩散透射和正常透射之和,并且使用双光束分光光度计UltraScan Vis在600nm下测定,所述分光光度计是购自HunterLab的紫外可见分光光度计。
剪切应力
优选地,考虑到铺展性,所述组合物具有至少约100Pa,更优选至少约120Pa,还更优选至少约140Pa,并且优选多至约1000Pa,更优选多至约800Pa,还更优选多至约600Pa,甚至更优选多至约400Pa的剪切应力。当剪切应力过低,所述组合物过稀以无法铺展在毛发上,并且从毛发和/或手上滴落。当剪切应力过高,所述组合物过硬而无法铺展在毛发上。该剪切应力针对于所述组合物,即可包含附加成分如硅氧烷、香料和/或防腐剂的最终产品制剂。
包含此类附加成分之前的组合物基料的剪切应力可更高。因此,所述组合物基料仅由阳离子表面活性剂、高熔点脂肪族化合物、具有较高折射率的材料如多元醇、和含水载体组成。所述组合物基料具有优选至少约200Pa,更优选至少约250Pa,还更优选至少约300Pa,甚至更优选至少约350Pa,并且优选多至约1000Pa,更优选多至约800Pa,还更优选多至约600Pa,甚至更优选多至约400Pa的剪切应力。
剪切应力经由剪切速率扫描条件,使用型号名为ARG2购自TA Instruments的流变仪测定。几何结构具有40mm直径,2℃锥角,和49μιη间隙。剪切速率在l分钟内从0对数增加至1200/s,并且温度保持在26.7℃。测定950/s高剪切速率下的剪切应力,并且定义如上。
基本上不含低熔点脂肪族化合物
优选地,考虑到所述组合物的稳定性如降低相分离的风险,考虑到因具有优选的剪切应力的铺展性,和/或考虑到半透明产品外观,本发明的组合物基本上不含低熔点脂肪族化合物。
在本发明中,所述组合物“基本上不含”低熔点脂肪族化合物是指:所述组合物不含低熔点脂肪族化合物;或如果所述组合物包含低熔点脂肪族化合物,则此类低熔点脂肪族化合物的含量非常低。在本发明中,如果包含的话,此类低熔点脂肪族化合物的含量为0.1%或更低,优选0.05%或更低,更优选0.01%或更低,最优选0%。
本文低熔点脂肪族化合物具有低于25℃(不包括25℃),优选低于40℃(不包括40℃),更优选低于45℃(不包括45℃)的熔点。
本文此类低熔点脂肪族化合物包括例如油醇、月桂醇、异硬脂酸异丙酯、异硬脂醇、2-己基-1-癸醇、辛醇、癸醇。
基本上不含非硅氧烷增稠聚合物
优选地,考虑到湿调理,本发明的组合物基本上不含非硅氧烷增稠聚合物。本文非硅氧烷增稠聚合物为不是硅氧烷聚合物的聚合化合物,并且选自非硅氧烷非离子增稠聚合物、非硅氧烷阳离子增稠聚合物、非硅氧烷阴离子交联增稠聚合物、以及它们的混合物。本文非硅氧烷增稠聚合物具有至少约1,000的分子量。
在本发明中,所述组合物“基本上不含”非硅氧烷增稠聚合物是指:所述组合物不含非硅氧烷增稠聚合物;或如果所述组合物包含非硅氧烷增稠聚合物,则此类非硅氧烷增稠聚合物的含量非常低。在本发明中,如果包含的话,此类非硅氧烷增稠聚合物的含量为0.1%或更低,优选0.05%或更低,更优选0.01%或更低,最优选0%。
非硅氧烷非离子增稠聚合物包括例如多糖聚合物如羟乙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、通常用作粘度调节剂/流变助洗剂的瓜尔胶。非硅氧烷阳离子增稠聚合物包括例如阳离子纤维素如聚季铵盐-4、聚季铵盐-10、阳离子瓜尔胶、和其它非多糖阳离子聚合物。非硅氧烷阴离子交联增稠聚合物包括例如卡波姆、和丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯交联聚合物。
阳离子表面活性剂
本发明的组合物包含阳离子表面活性剂。考虑到提供半透明产品外观与提供调理有益效果之间的平衡,所述阳离子表面活性剂在所述组合物中的含量按所述组合物的重量计可为优选约0.3%,更优选约0.5%,还更优选约0.7%,并且按所述组合物的重量计优选至约5%,更优选至约3%,还更优选至约2%。
考虑到提供半透明产品外观和调理有益效果,可用于本文的阳离子表面活性剂为单长链烷基胺和酸的盐,尤其是单长链烷基酰氨基胺和酸的盐。
单长链烷基胺
可用于本文的单长链烷基胺是具有一个长烷基链的那些,所述长烷基链优选具有12至30个碳原子,更优选16至24个碳原子,还更优选18至22个烷基基团。可用于本文的单长链烷基胺还包括单长链烷基酰氨基胺。脂肪族伯胺、脂肪族仲胺和脂肪族叔胺为可用的。
尤其可用的是具有约12至约22个碳原子的烷基基团的叔酰胺基胺。示例性的叔酰胺基胺包括:硬脂酰胺基丙基二甲基胺、硬脂酰胺基丙基二乙基胺、硬脂酰胺基乙基二乙基胺、硬脂酰胺基乙基二甲基胺、棕榈酰胺基丙基二甲基胺、棕榈酰胺基丙基二乙基胺、棕榈酰胺基乙基二乙基胺、棕榈酰胺基乙基二甲基胺、二十二烷酰胺基丙基二甲基胺、二十二烷酰胺基丙基二乙基胺、二十二烷酰胺基乙基二乙基胺、二十二烷酰胺基乙基二甲基胺、二十烷酰胺基丙基二甲基胺、二十烷酰胺基丙基二乙基胺、二十烷酰胺基乙基二乙基胺、二十烷酰胺基乙基二甲基胺、二乙基氨基乙基硬脂酰胺。本发明中可用的胺公开于Nachtigal等人的美国专利4,275,055中。
这些胺与酸结合使用,所述酸诸如λ-谷氨酸、乳酸、盐酸、苹果酸、琥珀酸、乙酸、富马酸、酒石酸、柠檬酸、λ-谷氨酸盐酸盐、马来酸、以及它们的混合物;更优选λ-谷氨酸、乳酸、柠檬酸,胺与酸的摩尔比为约1:0.3至约1:2,更优选约1:0.4至约1:1。
其它阳离子表面活性剂
上文单长链烷基胺盐可与或可不与其它阳离子表面活性剂如单长链烷基季铵盐和二长链烷基季铵盐一起使用。
单-长链烷基季铵盐
可用于本文的单长链烷基季铵盐是具有一个长烷基链的那些,所述长烷基链具有12至30个碳原子,优选16至24个碳原子,更优选C18-22烷基基团。与氮连接的其它基团独立地选自具有1个至约4个碳原子的烷基、或具有多至约4个碳原子的烷氧基、聚氧化亚烷基、烷基酰胺基、羟烷基、芳基或烷基芳基。
可用于本文的单-长链烷基季铵盐是具有式(I)的那些:
其中R75、R76、R77和R78中的一者选自具有12至30个碳原子的烷基基团,或具有多至约30个碳原子的芳族基团、烷氧基、聚氧化亚烷基、烷基酰胺基、羟烷基、芳基或烷芳基基团;R75、R76、R77和R78中的其余基团独立地选自具有1至约4个碳原子的烷基基团,或具有多至约4个碳原子的烷氧基、聚氧化亚烷基、烷基酰胺基、羟烷基、芳基或烷基芳基基团;并且X-为成盐阴离子,如选自卤素(例如氯、溴)、乙酸根、柠檬酸根、乳酸根、乙醇酸根、磷酸根、硝酸根、磺酸根、硫酸根、烷基硫酸根和烷基磺酸根基团的那些。除了碳原子和氢原子之外,所述烷基还可包含醚和/或酯键,以及其它基团诸如氨基。较长链的烷基基团例如具有约12个或更多碳原子的那些可为饱和或不饱和的。优选地,R75、R76、R77和R78中的一者选自具有12至30个碳原子,更优选地16至24个碳原子,还更优选地18至22个碳原子,甚至更优选地22个碳原子的烷基基团;R75、R76、R77和R78中的其余基团独立地选自CH3、C2H5、C2H4OH以及它们的混合物;并且X选自Cl、Br、CH3OSO3、C2H5OSO3以及它们的混合物。
此类单长链烷基季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂的非限制性示例包括:二十二烷基三甲基铵盐;硬脂基三甲基铵盐;鲸蜡基三甲基铵盐;和氢化牛脂基烷基三甲基铵盐。
二长链烷基季铵盐
当使用时,考虑到流变稳定性和调理有益效果,二长链烷基季铵盐优选与单长链烷基季铵盐或单长链烷基胺盐以1:1至1:5,更优选1:1.2至1:5,还更优选1:1.5至1:4的重量比组合。
可用于本文的二长链烷基季铵盐为具有12至30个碳原子,更优选16至24个碳原子,还更优选18至22个碳原子的两个长烷基链的那些。可用于本文的此类二长链烷基季铵盐是具有式(I)的那些:
其中R71、R72、R73和R74中的两者选自具有12至30个碳原子,优选16至24个碳原子,更优选18至22个碳原子的脂族基团,或具有多至约30个碳原子的芳族、烷氧基、聚氧化亚烷基、烷基酰胺基、羟烷基、芳基或烷基芳基基团;R71、R72、R73和R74中的其余基团独立地选自具有1至约8个碳原子,优选1至3个碳原子的脂族基团,或具有多至约8个碳原子的芳族、烷氧基、聚氧化亚烷基、烷基酰胺基、羟烷基、芳基或烷基芳基基团;并且X-为成盐阴离子,所述成盐阴离子选自卤离子如氯离子和溴离子、C1-C4烷基硫酸根如甲基硫酸根和乙基硫酸根、以及它们的混合物。除了碳原子和氢原子以外,脂族基团还可包含醚键和其它基团诸如氨基基团。更长链的脂族基团,例如具有约16个或更多个碳原子的那些,可为饱和或不饱和的。优选地,R71、R72、R73和R74中的两者选自具有12至30个碳原子,优选16至24个碳原子,更优选18至22个碳原子的烷基基团;并且R71、R72、R73和R74中的其余基团独立地选自CH3、C2H5、C2H4OH、CH2C6H5、以及它们的混合物。
此类优选的二-长链烷基阳离子表面活性剂包括例如二烷基(14-18)二甲基氯化铵、二牛脂烷基二甲基氯化铵、二氢化牛脂烷基二甲基氯化铵、二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵和二鲸蜡基二甲基氯化铵。
高熔点脂肪族化合物
本发明的组合物包含高熔点脂肪族化合物。与不包含高熔点脂肪族化合物的组合物相比和/或与包含低熔点脂肪族化合物而不是高熔点脂肪族化合物的组合物相比,通过使用高熔点脂肪族化合物,本发明的组合物提供改善的调理有益效果,如调理剂施用期间摩擦减少,易于铺展,和/或易于解缠结。与不包含高熔点脂肪族化合物的组合物相比和/或与包含低熔点脂肪族化合物而不是高熔点脂肪族化合物的组合物相比,通过使用高熔点脂肪族化合物,本发明的组合物可提供改善的组合物稳定性,如降低相分离风险。
考虑到提供调理有益效果,所述高熔点脂肪族化合物在所述组合物中的含量按所述组合物的重量计可为优选约1.0%,更优选约1.5%,还更优选约2.0%,甚至更优选约2.5%,并且考虑到提供半透明产品外观,按所述组合物的重量计优选至约10%,更优选至约8.0%,还更优选至约5.0%,甚至更优选至约4.5%。
考虑到乳液的稳定性,尤其是凝胶基质的稳定性,可用于本文的高熔点脂肪族化合物具有25℃或更高,优选40℃或更高,更优选45℃或更高,还更优选50℃或更高的熔点。考虑到更易于制备和更易于乳化,优选地,此熔点为多至约90℃,更优选多至约80℃,还更优选多至约70℃,甚至更优选多至约65℃。在本发明中,高熔点脂肪族化合物能够以单一化合物形式或者至少两种高熔点脂肪族化合物的共混物或混合物形式使用。当用作此类共混物或混合物时,上述熔点是指共混物或混合物的熔点。
可用于本文的高熔点脂肪族化合物选自脂肪醇、脂肪酸、脂肪醇衍生物、脂肪酸衍生物、以及它们的混合物。本领域的技术人员应当理解,在说明书的这一部分中公开的化合物在某些情况下可能属于多于一个的类别,例如一些脂肪醇衍生物还可归类为脂肪酸衍生物。然而,给出的分类并不旨在对特定化合物进行限制,而是为了便于分类和命名。此外,本领域技术人员应当理解,根据双键的数目和位置以及支链的长度和位置,具有某些所需碳原子的某些化合物可能具有比本发明中上文优选的熔点低的熔点。不旨在将此类低熔点化合物包含在该部分中。高熔点化合物的非限制性示例可见于“International CosmeticIngredient Dictionary”,第五版,1993和“CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook”,第二版,1992中。
在多种高熔点脂肪族化合物中,优选将脂肪醇用于本发明的组合物中。可用于本文的脂肪醇是具有约14至约30个碳原子,优选约16至约22个碳原子的那些。这些脂肪醇是饱和的并可为直链醇或支链醇。
优选的脂肪醇包括例如鲸蜡醇(具有约56℃的熔点)、硬脂醇(具有约58-59℃的熔点)、二十二醇(具有约71℃的熔点)、以及它们的混合物。已知这些组合物具有上述熔点。然而,当提供时,它们通常具有较低的熔点,因为提供的此类产品通常为其中烷基主链为鲸蜡基、硬脂基或二十二烷基基团的具有烷基链长分布的脂肪醇的混合物。
在本发明中,更优选的脂肪醇为鲸蜡醇和硬脂醇的混合物。
一般来讲,在混合物中,鲸蜡醇与硬脂醇的重量比优选为约1:9至9:1,更优选约1:4至约4:1,还更优选约1:2.3至约1.5:1
具有高折射率的材料
所述组合物包含25℃下λ=589nm波长处具有约1.30至约1.70,优选约1.35至约1.65,更优选约1.40至约1.55高折射率的材料。此类材料可为溶剂或可溶于含水载体中的固体。
具有此类高折射率的优选材料为多元醇,其详细说明于下文中。
多元醇
所述组合物优选包含多元醇,其有助于提供半透明产品外观。
在优选的实施方案中,考虑到提供半透明的外观并且具有优选的剪切应力,多元醇在所述组合物中的含量按所述组合物的重量计可高于30%(不包括30%),更优选约40%,还更优选约45%,并且优选至约80%,更优选至约70%,更优选至约65%。考虑到提供半透明的外观,还优选多元醇与阳离子表面活性剂和高熔点脂肪族化合物总重量之间具有一定的重量比。多元醇与阳离子表面活性剂和高熔点脂肪族化合物的组合的重量比优选为约6:1至约18:1,更优选约8:1至约15:1,还更优选约9:1至约13:1。
可用于本文的多元醇是具有优选约60至约500,更优选约60至约350,还更优选约60至约200,甚至更优选约60至约150分子量的那些。
优选地,可用于本文的多元醇具有至少2个羟基基团,更优选至少3个羟基基团,并且优选多至12个羟基基团,更优选多至10个羟基基团,还更优选多至6个羟基基团,甚至更优选多至4个羟基基团。
可用于本文的多元醇优选是水溶性的。本文的水溶性多元醇是指在30℃下以所用含量溶解的那些。非水溶性多元醇为例如需要更高温度溶解的硬脂酸甘油酯。优选地,本文的多元醇不含酯键和醚键。
本文可用的多元醇包括例如:季戊四醇;丙二醇;丁二醇;甘油;山梨醇;木糖醇;戊二醇;己二醇;二醇,如1,2-二醇、1,3-二醇和其它的二醇,具有1-20个碳,优选1-6个碳的烃链的二醇;聚乙二醇;聚丙二醇;聚丁二醇;聚戊二醇;和聚己二醇。其中,考虑到提供半透明的外观和优选的剪切应力,优选甘油、山梨醇、和木糖醇。考虑到半透明的外观和优选的剪切应力,更优选甘油。
含水载体
本发明的组合物优选包含含水载体。根据与其它组分的相容性和产品的其它所需特性来选择所述载体的含量和种类。
可用于本发明的载体包括水和低级烷基醇的水溶液。可用于本文的低级烷基醇为具有1至6个碳原子的一元醇,更优选乙醇和异丙醇。
优选地,含水载体实质上为水。优选使用去离子水。根据产品的所需特性,还可使用包含无机阳离子的来自天然来源的水。一般来讲,本发明的组合物包含按所述组合物的重量计约20%至约80%,优选约20%至约70%,并且更优选约30%至约60%,并且更优选约35%至约55%的水。
凝胶基质
优选地,在本发明中,所述阳离子表面活性剂体系、高熔点脂肪族化合物、具有较高折射率的材料如多元醇和含水载体形成凝胶基质。所述凝胶基质适于提供多种调理有益效果,如向湿发施用期间的光滑感以及干发上的柔软性和润湿感。
优选地,当形成凝胶基质时,考虑到提供调理有益效果和半透明的产品外观,包含一定含量的阳离子表面活性剂和高熔点脂肪族化合物,使得阳离子表面活性剂与高熔点脂肪族化合物的重量比在优选约1:1至约1:7,更优选约1:1.15至约1:5,还更优选约1:2至约1:4的范围内。在该重量比下,所述阳离子表面活性剂为无抗衡离子或酸的组分,例如,当所述阳离子表面活性剂为单长链烷基胺和酸的组合时,认为无酸重量的单长链烷基胺的重量在该重量比下。
优选地,当形成凝胶基质时,考虑到凝胶基质的稳定性,本发明的组合物基本上不含阴离子表面活性剂。
在本发明中,“所述组合物基本上不含阴离子表面活性剂”是指:所述组合物不含阴离子表面活性剂;或如果所述组合物包含阴离子表面活性剂,则此类阴离子表面活性剂的含量非常低。在本发明中,如果包含,则此类阴离子表面活性剂的总含量按所述组合物的重量计优选为0.1%或更少,更优选0.05%或更少,还更优选0.01%或更少。最优选地,此类阴离子表面活性剂的总含量按所述组合物的重量计为0%。
硅氧烷化合物
本发明的组合物可包含硅氧烷化合物。所述硅氧烷化合物的含量按所述组合物的重量计为约0.05%至约15%,优选约0.1%至约10%,更优选约0.1%至约8%。
优选地,在组合物中,硅氧烷化合物具有约1微米至约50微米的平均粒度。
作为单独的化合物,作为至少两种硅氧烷化合物的共混物或混合物,或作为至少一种硅氧烷化合物和至少一种溶剂的共混物或混合物,可用于本文的硅氧烷化合物在25℃下具有优选约1,000至约2,000,000mPa.s的粘度。
可使用玻璃毛细管粘度计来测定粘度,如1970年7月20日的Dow CorningCorporate测试方法CTM0004中所述。适宜的硅氧烷流体包含聚烷基硅氧烷、聚芳基硅氧烷、聚烷基芳基硅氧烷、聚醚硅氧烷共聚物、氨基取代的硅氧烷、季铵化硅氧烷、以及它们的混合物。还可使用具有调理特性的其它非挥发性硅氧烷化合物。
在一些实施方案中,优选使用氨基取代的硅氧烷。例如,优选的氨基硅氧烷包括符合通式(I)的那些:
(R1)aG3-a-Si-(-OSiG2)n-(-OSiGb(R1)2-b)m-O-SiG3-a(R1)a
其中G为氢、苯基、羟基或C1-C8烷基,优选甲基;a为0或值为1至3的整数,优选1;b为0、1或2,优选1;n为0至1,999的数;m为0至1,999的整数;n和m的和为1至2,000的数;并且a和m不均为0;R1是符合通式CqH2qL的一价基团,其中q是值为2至8的整数,并且L选自以下基团:-N(R2)CH2-CH2-N(R2)2;-N(R2)2;-N(R2)3Aˉ;-N(R2)CH2-CH2-NR2H2Aˉ;其中R2为氢、苯基、苄基、或饱和烃基,优选约C1至约C20烷基基团;Aˉ为卤离子。
高度优选的氨基硅氧烷为对应于式(I)的那些,其中m=0,a=1,q=3,G=甲基,n优选为约1500至约1700,更优选约1600;并且L为–N(CH3)2或–NH2,更优选–NH2。另一种高度优选的氨基硅氧烷为对应于式(I)的那些,其中m=0,a=1,q=3,G=甲基,n优选为约400至约600,更优选约500;并且L为–N(CH3)2或–NH2,更优选–NH2。此类高度优选的氨基硅氧烷可被称为末端氨基硅氧烷,因为硅氧烷链的一端或两端被含氮基团封端。
当将上述氨基硅氧烷掺入组合物中时,氨基硅氧烷可与具有较低粘度的溶剂混合。例如,此类溶剂包括极性或非极性的、挥发性或非挥发性的油。例如,此类油包括硅氧烷油、烃和酯。在此类多种溶剂中,优选的是选自下列的那些:非极性挥发性烃、挥发性环状硅氧烷、非挥发性直链硅氧烷、以及它们的混合物。可用于本文的非挥发性直链硅氧烷是25℃下具有约1至约20,000厘沲,优选约20至约10,000厘沲的粘度的那些。考虑到降低氨基硅氧烷的粘度并且提供改善的毛发调理有益效果如减小干发上的摩擦,在优选的溶剂中,高度优选非极性挥发性烃,尤其是非极性挥发性异链烷烃。此类混合物具有优选约1,000mPa·s至约100,000mPa·s,更优选约5,000mPa·s至约50,000mPa·s的粘度。
其它合适的烷氨基取代的硅氧烷化合物包括具有作为硅氧烷主链的侧基的烷氨基取代基的那些。称为“氨基封端的聚二甲基硅氧烷”的那些是高度优选的。可用于本文的可商购获得的氨基封端的聚二甲基硅氧烷包括例如购自Dow Corning的BY16-872。
附加组分
本发明的组合物可包含其它附加组分,所述附加组分可根据最终产品的所需特性由本领域的技术人员来选择,并且所述附加组分适于使得所述组合物在美容或美学上更可接受,或者向它们提供附加的使用有益效果。此类其它的附加组分通常以按该组合物的重量计约0.001%至约10%,优选多至约5%的含量单独使用。
可将多种其它的附加组分配制到本发明的组合物中。这些包括:其它调理剂,如以商品名Peptein 2000购自Hormel的水解胶原、以商品名Emix-d购自Eisai的维生素E、购自Roche的泛醇、购自Roche的泛基乙基醚、水解角蛋白、蛋白质、植物提取物和营养物质;防腐剂,如苄醇、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯和咪唑烷基脲;pH调节剂,如柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠、琥珀酸、磷酸、氢氧化钠、碳酸钠;着色剂,如FD&C或D&C染料中任一种;香料;紫外和红外掩蔽剂和吸收剂,如二苯甲酮;以及去头皮屑剂,如吡啶硫酮锌。
产品形式
本发明的组合物可为洗去型产品形式或免洗型产品形式,并且可被配制成多种产品形式,包括但不限于霜膏、凝胶、乳液、摩丝和喷剂。本发明的组合物尤其适用于毛发调理剂,尤其是洗去型毛发调理剂。
当用作洗去型调理剂时,优选按以下步骤使用所述组合物:
(i)用洗发剂洗发后,向毛发施用有效量的调理组合物以调理毛发;
(ii)然后冲洗毛发。
本文中,有效量为例如每10g毛发约0.1mL至约2mL,优选每10g毛发约0.2mL至约1.5mL。
实施例
以下实施例进一步描述并论证了本发明范围内的实施方案。所给出的这些实施例仅仅是为了举例说明目的,不可理解为是对本发明的限制,因为在不脱离本发明的精神和范围的条件下,其许多变型是可能的。此处适用的成分均以化学名或CTFA名来识别,除非下文另外限定。
表1.组合物(重量%)
制备方法
如上所示,“实施例1”至“实施例4”、“比较例i”和“比较例iii”的毛发护理组合物可由本领域熟知的任何常规方法来制备。
性能和调理有益效果
对于上文组合物中的一些,通过以下方法评估特性和调理有益效果。评估的结果也示于上文。
由“实施例1”至“实施例4”公开并表示的实施方案为本发明的毛发调理组合物,其尤其可用于洗去型用途。此类实施方案具有许多优点。例如,它们提供半透明产品外观,调理有益效果,尤其是湿调理有益效果,以及所述组合物的改善的稳定性,如降低的相分离风险。通过在这些实施例与比较例“比较例i”和“比较例iii”之间进行比较,可理解本发明的此类优点。
性能如%T和剪切应力
%T和剪切应力由上述方法测定。
相分离
通过直接目视观察,判断所述组合物是否发生相分离。
○:未观测到相分离
×:观测到相分离
调理有益效果的专门小组成员测试
由专门小组成员测试,评定调理有益效果如铺展性和湿润解缠结性。8位专门小组成员通过施用每1g毛发0.1mL上述组合物,评定所制得的样品。专门小组成员按0至100标度,对每个样品进行铺展性和解缠结性各自的评定。将得自专门小组成员的数据进行收集、取平均,并且评分和比较。
本文所公开的量纲和值不应理解为严格限于所引用的精确数值。相反,除非另外指明,否则每个这样的量纲旨在表示所述值以及围绕该值功能上等同的范围。例如,公开为“40mm”的量纲旨在表示“约40mm”。
除非明确排除或以其它方式限制,否则将本文引用的每篇文献(包括任何交叉引用的或相关专利或专利申请)的全文以引用方式并入本文。任何文献的引用不是对其作为与本发明任何公开或本文受权利要求书保护的现有技术的认可,或不是对其自身或与任何其它参考文献或多个参考文献的组合提出、建议或公开了此发明任何方面的认可。此外,当本发明中术语的任何含义或定义与以引用方式并入的文件中相同术语的任何含义或定义矛盾时,应当服从在本发明中赋予该术语的含义或定义。
虽然已经举例说明和描述了本发明的具体实施方式,但是对于本领域技术人员来说显而易见的是,在不脱离本发明实质和范围的情况下可作出多个其他改变和变型。因此,本文旨在所附权利要求中涵盖属于本发明范围内的所有此类改变和修改。
Claims (9)
1.一种毛发调理组合物,所述毛发调理组合物包含:
(a)阳离子表面活性剂;
(b)具有25℃或更高熔点的高熔点脂肪族化合物;
(c)具有约1.30至约1.70折射率的材料;和
(d)含水载体,
其中所述组合物具有至少约0.5%的透光率,
并且其中所述阳离子表面活性剂为单长链烷基胺和酸的盐。
2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中所述组合物包含组合物基料,
其中所述组合物基料由所述阳离子表面活性剂、所述高熔点脂肪族化合物、所述材料和所述含水载体组成,
其中所述组合物基料具有至少约5%,优选至少约7%,更优选至少约10%的透光率。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的组合物,其中所述组合物包含组合物基料,
其中所述组合物基料由所述阳离子表面活性剂、所述高熔点脂肪族化合物、所述多元醇和所述含水载体组成,
其中所述组合物基料具有至少约200,优选至少约250,更优选至少约300,还更优选至少约350的剪切应力。
4.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中具有约1.30至约1.70折射率的所述材料为具有约60至约500分子量,优选具有至少3个羟基基团的多元醇,并且更优选甘油。
5.根据权利要求5中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述多元醇的含量为约40%至约70%,优选约45%至约65%。
6.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述组合物具有至少约1.0%,优选至少约1.5%的透光率。
7.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述组合物具有至少约100,优选至少约120,更优选至少约140的剪切应力。
8.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述组合物不含具有约1000分子量的非硅氧烷增稠聚合物。
9.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述组合物基本上不含具有低于25℃熔点的低熔点脂肪族化合物。
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| US9993404B2 (en) | 2015-01-15 | 2018-06-12 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Translucent hair conditioning composition |
| EP3405168B1 (en) | 2016-01-20 | 2025-01-22 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Hair conditioning composition comprising monoalkyl glyceryl ether |
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| CN106999416A (zh) | 2014-10-03 | 2017-08-01 | 宝洁公司 | 包含油性组分离散颗粒的毛发护理组合物 |
| US20160095809A1 (en) | 2014-10-03 | 2016-04-07 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Method of improved volume and combability using personal care composition comprising a pre-emulsified formulation |
| US10806688B2 (en) | 2014-10-03 | 2020-10-20 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Method of achieving improved volume and combability using an anti-dandruff personal care composition comprising a pre-emulsified formulation |
| US20160206533A1 (en) | 2015-01-15 | 2016-07-21 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Translucent hair conditioning composition |
| US9993404B2 (en) | 2015-01-15 | 2018-06-12 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Translucent hair conditioning composition |
| US20160244698A1 (en) | 2015-02-20 | 2016-08-25 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Fabric care composition comprising metathesized unsaturated polyol esters |
| EP3262233A1 (en) | 2015-02-25 | 2018-01-03 | The Procter and Gamble Company | Fibrous structures comprising a surface softening composition |
| US20170087068A1 (en) | 2015-09-29 | 2017-03-30 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Foaming hair care composition |
| US10294013B2 (en) | 2015-12-21 | 2019-05-21 | The Procter And Gamble Plaza | Package to dispense a foaming composition |
| EP3405168B1 (en) | 2016-01-20 | 2025-01-22 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Hair conditioning composition comprising monoalkyl glyceryl ether |
-
2016
- 2016-01-14 US US14/995,431 patent/US9993404B2/en active Active
- 2016-01-15 JP JP2017535890A patent/JP6577035B2/ja active Active
- 2016-01-15 CN CN201680005794.8A patent/CN107106433B/zh active Active
- 2016-01-15 MX MX2017009368A patent/MX2017009368A/es unknown
- 2016-01-15 WO PCT/US2016/013571 patent/WO2016115446A1/en not_active Ceased
- 2016-01-15 EP EP16701719.3A patent/EP3244875A1/en not_active Withdrawn
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4954335A (en) * | 1989-05-31 | 1990-09-04 | Helene Curtis, Inc. | Clear conditioning composition and method to impart improved properties to the hair |
| US6602494B1 (en) * | 1999-10-21 | 2003-08-05 | Wella Ag | Transparent water-silicon hair conditioning agent |
| CN101208135A (zh) * | 2005-06-24 | 2008-06-25 | 宝洁公司 | 包装在透明和/或半透明容器中的透明或半透明调理组合物 |
| CN101778617A (zh) * | 2007-07-27 | 2010-07-14 | 宝洁公司 | 包含二元阳离子表面活性剂体系、氨基硅氧烷和有机硅树脂的调理组合物 |
| US20140377205A1 (en) * | 2013-06-19 | 2014-12-25 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Method of preparing hair conditioning composition comprising polyol |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO2016115446A1 (en) | 2016-07-21 |
| US20160206532A1 (en) | 2016-07-21 |
| JP6577035B2 (ja) | 2019-09-18 |
| US9993404B2 (en) | 2018-06-12 |
| EP3244875A1 (en) | 2017-11-22 |
| MX2017009368A (es) | 2017-11-08 |
| JP2018505157A (ja) | 2018-02-22 |
| CN107106433B (zh) | 2022-02-18 |
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