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Showing posts with label craft. Show all posts
Showing posts with label craft. Show all posts

Sunday, April 17, 2022

𓆣 Easter Eggs

This year for Easter, I decided that I would attempt to use the ancient Egyptian hieroglyph, hpr, ( or ð“†£  ) on dyed eggs.  Hpr is an ideogram of a dung-beetle, and is used in words like "manifest" and "becoming."    In ancient Egyptian iconography, the dung-beetle is shown with a sun disk, and is symbolically related to the beginning of a new day and regeneration.  I used photos I'd taken of various ancient Egyptian artifacts as the basis for the design and fired up Inkscape.  Several hours later, I had a DFX file that I could import into Silhouette.  

In the past, I've used painter's tape on eggs to resist the dyes.  I purchased a one inch wide roll, the widest I could find.  I thought I might be pushing the limits of the cutter-plotter's ability to incise the tape without shredding it, but it turned out that that wasn't a problem.  Also, if the tape was too wide, there would have had difficulty applying it evenly to the curved surface of the eggs.


I shrunk down the design, placed a strip of the tape on an older Silhouette mat that had lost some of its stickiness, and set the software for washi paper.  Moments later I had a flawless cut (beginner's luck) of the hpr hieroglyph, and I laughed with a crafter's glee.

While I was at it, I had the cutter-plotter cut out some painter's tape stars.  If I had been thinking, I would have made them duat, or netherworld, stars, (𓇽 ) but they were plain, regular ones.     I also cut out two larger beetles out of 3x5 index cards with a vague notion that they might be able to roll the eggs like their live counterparts will roll dung balls.  

After that, it was a matter of setting up the dye from a kit and dunking eggs.  Neither Mark nor The Child were really into the process, although Mark was interested in natural dyes and tried out onion skins and some Earl Grey tea as dyes.  

The most difficult part was waiting for the eggs, and more importantly, the painter's tape, to dry so that there wouldn't be smudges.  There were some places where the tape had buckled a bit:  worst-case they made some smudged boundaries; best-case there was a kind of marbling effect in some of the stars.  

Next time I will re-work the wing-case design to simplify it and make it less of a T-shape and more of a Y-shape.  It might be possible to stencil a short word or phrase and have it wrapped around the widest part of the egg.  


The eggs were received well (at least on social media) and added to the decor of my folks' Easter table.  




Friday, October 01, 2021

Halloween Idea from the Past

 This is a note to me from my past self (11/15/2020)

This year for Halloween, make a Witch-King of Angmar style jack-o-lantern, with a high crown by giving it a narrow-toothed, jagged rim and then turn it stem-side down.  You might even try cutting a second lid for a multi-tiered affect.  Think of that one Ace of Swords tarot trump with a crown surmounting a sword. 

Thursday, February 04, 2021

That Moment When...

 ... you're working on creating heart shapes for a Valentine's Day project and the next thing you know, you've created a barn owl.



Tuesday, November 10, 2020

Halloween Wings


For October 31, I wanted to RollerBlade under the full moon light.  Traditionally, I've done this in my billowing black cloak; this worries Mark, who is convinced that I'm going to slip, knock myself out, and get squished by a truck.

This time around, I decided that I would work on white wings, which would show up, and then, in the very unlikely event that I did slip and knock myself out, I would be a white heap in the middle of the road, illuminated by the silvery full moon.   

I started construction on the first of the month.

I thought about how I might make some wings that weren't too horrific looking.  There's a woman on the Internet who made black wings, bird feet, and a beaked full head mask.  I didn't want my head covered because I wanted to be able to see, but her tutorial about how to put together wings from feathers based on actual birds was instructive.  I also thought I might be able to pull off something like the winged costumes used in Akhenaten.   

The first step was to make a small model of the wings in chipboard before cutting out feathers and wings from some sheets of cardboard that we had.  I thought I might be able to make the wings bend at the elbow; this might have worked, except that I didn't have a model arm to fit into the model wing -- so I didn't realize until later that my elbow doesn't bend in the same plane as the wing model did.

Luckily, I had the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Feather Atlas as a resource. The most difficult part was figuring out how to scale up the wings so they wouldn't look like dinky little hand fans or so that they wouldn't be so large that I would be unable to get out of the garage.   And there was also the question of how to wear my wrist-guards with the wings.   I had a rough idea of how long I wanted the tip-to-tip wingspan to be, and I spent something like three hours with a compass trying to work out proportions.  

Since I didn't want to have to keep track of ten or so chipboard pattern guides, I cheated a bit and only made four and doubled-up on similar sized feathers.  Then it was cut-cut-cut-cuting on the cardboard.   This wasn't so bad, as the weather was still nice, and I could work on them in the mid-October sunlight. 

The next step was cutting out the wings; I figured that by doubling up the cardboard and folding it, I'd have structurally sound wings with less of a chance for accidental, mid-flight molting.  It was around here that I discovered that bending wings wasn't going to work (luckily, we had enough cardboard that I could experiment with forms).  I experimented around with feather placement in the wings and determined that it wouldn't look too horrific. 

The wings did look a little less owl-like than I hoped; I was slightly bummed out about this until I decided that I was going to look more like Daedalus than an actual raptor.  And I tried to keep my mind off of Icarus (perhaps if I were younger and more buff....) 

The last week of October, and the final steps were painting the feathers.  I attempted to imitate the look of the barbs with the brushstrokes, but it was super subtle.  I think if I had mixed in small drops of black paint, I might have had more obvious looking barbs.   On October 30, I discovered that I'd dropped a feather on the ground and it was only half-painted.

Attaching the feathers to the actual wings was a labor of duct tape and glue.  And clamps.  And really heavy objects.  And I got the feather overlapping reversed on one of the wings.  

But the end result certainly passed the five-foot rule (if it looks good from five feet away, you're good) and was more or less what I wanted.  Judging from various neighbor's reaction, the wings were a startling success.  

A mid-afternoon test run assured me the wings weren't going to fall apart on me or adversely affect my balance.   Mark commented that I looked like an ancient Egyptian image, which was gratifying.  And kept my mind off of how sore my shoulder muscles were.

Halloween.  I lit jack-o-lanterns in the back.  The Full Moon rose.  The leaves had not yet fallen much, so the street was free of slick spots.  

As I glided through the shadows and the patches of sliver, I raised my winged arms and felt the air lifting me.  The wind exalted my hair.  The arching branches above merged with the canopy of stars.   


Sunday, April 07, 2019

Arts and Crafts Sunday

 For a while, I've been thinking about ways that I might convert an Altoids tin into a kind of reliquary or shrine or portable diptych.  Serendipitously, when I last visited my folks, I discovered my Mom had about five hundred of the things -- she gladly donated five to me (my Dad was probably sorry that she donated only five...).

 I did some Internet research on portable altars, and lots of folks sand down and use paint stripper to prep their tins for a repaint job.  I suppose I should see if anyone pounds out the embossed "Altoids" legend, but so far folks have just dealt with the paint -- except for the one woman who encased her tin in Sculpey clay.

 Since I wasn't planning on taking my piece anywhere particularly wet, I opted for a paper liner on the inside.  For extra credit, I could maybe papier-mâché the lid, but this was more of a concept piece than anything.

The most fussy steps were figuring out the sizes of the lid and the box, which are a tenth of an inch different, so I could cut out a paper liner for them.  The compass came in very handy crafting the curved corners.  In theory, now that I have the measurements, I could use InkScape to cut out the two liner papers... I do wonder, however, how much fiddling I'd have to do have the measurements accurately come out on the Silhouette plotter-cutter.  That's another project...


 I figured I do a moon on the lid, and cut out a dark sky liner.  It felt a little pedestrian, but looking through various scrap paper shapes I had left over from previous paper art projects, it seemed obligatory that the sun be on the other side.
 The proportions of the shapes were in scale.  I wasn't sure what to do with the sun, which seemed a little lonely.  So I added some hills.  Bending strips of curve-cut green paper gave the hills some dimensionality.

So I gave the moon some hills, too.  The trickiest part was placing the sun and the moon to avoid a pareidolic face. 

At first I felt "terribly arty," and absurdly pleased with my own cleverness.  And then I realized this particular Altoids Diptych is dangerously close to Country Cute.

Oh well.

What works best in this particular example is the way the hills pop out of the box and are on both sides of the hinge.  Some other things I might try to add different levels would be making some Mucha-esque arches (the kind adorned with a frame of circles) in front of a Sarah Bernhardt figure.  In some of the Internet examples, folks had strung small beads or charms along the inside; it might be fun to try to work in an LED.   And if I were feeling intensely clever, I might figure out how construct and install a pop-up sundial...


Tuesday, December 25, 2018

Holiday Craft Project: Paper Icosidodecahedron

This year for the holidays I made some ornaments.  I'd wanted to make something a little more complicated, but in the end opted out for something that would use (mostly) straight lines and wouldn't require glue to put together.
The ornament is based on a stellated  icosidodecahedron.  I cut out triangles with a circle cut out of the middle to give the design an airier feel.

The edge of the triangle is about two inches; anything smaller and it would have been too difficult to assemble.







Five triangles hooked into each other pop into a three-dimensional star shape.  (Pause to imagine giant triangles making some cool outdoor gazebo.)  The triangle edges are slotted so they'll make a five-pointed star wen assembled.










There are several ways to put the different colors together.  I like to start with five triangles of the same color to make a star.  Other times I'll surround a triangle of one color with three of another and make a banded effect.












I didn't actually link the stars together at their points... but you could, and get a giant snub dodecahedron... and I would have for this post, except that I didn't have enough triangles (it would take 60 triangles... eyes cutter-plotter).













Back to this project,... I decided to make a blue and a green star joined together with a band of purple.
Usually I put the triangles together directly into the sphere, but for purposes of illustrating how things go together, I made the two end stars first, being sure that I kept the slots on the triangles on the same sides

Here's an interior shot, showing the geometry of interlaced pentagons and hexagons.

















The last triangles require a little sphere flexing to fit together.


















The holes in the triangles are useful for turning the sphere into an ornament.  I suppose a larger construction could be used as light shades.

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Secret Project Laser


The school where The Child goes to wanted to make some mallets with the school's R logo on them.   Someone much cleverer than me in the ways of woodworking made the mallets, and figured out a way to use blank tiles of white oak to put the mallet together.







I had to convert the pixelated logo into a vector drawing of the logo in InkScape, which I surrounded with boxes the size of the wood tiles.
When I got to the Maker Space, I laid the side of a cardboard cereal box into the laser cutter, and had it etch the design onto a cardboard cereal box so I'd know where to put the tiles.








I went back into the CAD program and added the black within the logo.  For whatever reason, CADQ hadn't picked up the black bits.  This was a good thing for cutting the guide, but it took me a few minutes to figure out how to add solid hatching.  The default setting for the cutter is to use a continuous red line for cutting through object, and black for a rastered etching.  








Since I didn't want to cut out the tiles, I removed the bounding boxes on CADQ.  Then I did a test run on the obverse side of some extra tiles.  In this photo you can see how the cardboard got sliced out around one of the stars before I got the laser to pause.  


The blanks laid out on the cardboard guide in the laser cutter's bed (note laser siting dot in upper right-hand corner).  The only problem with the cardboard was that it was folded and warped in a few places, so while it laid flat when the tiles were on it, it didn't want to stay flat when they were off, which was a source of worry.

The process of cutting and etching the tiles took about 25 minutes.   I'd say the first 20 was the laser going back and forth like an old Apple ImageWriter burning in the R's and the last five minutes was spent outlining.


The finished tiles, with the center one removed to show the cardbard's guidelines beneath.

The tiles were .25 of an inch thick, and I set the laser to cut at .13.  When I did an experimental tlle at .25, it nearly cut out the R and there wasn't much of an increase in contrast on the engraving.  I think if I had manually fiddled with the laser's power and the sled speed, I could have changed how things came out.  However, at .13 inches burning into white oak, there was minimal scorch marks.  



A finished tile.  Adding cut line around the engraving made the design pop out of the wood.













Once they were done, I got the white oak tiles back to another parent, who is wiser in the way of wood, and who put them onto the mallets.







Saturday, June 04, 2016

Laser Pirate Craft

Since the laser cut Unicorn Lamp was such a huge success, and to stem any cousin rivalry, I asked The Child if he wanted a lamp, too, and what kind he'd want.  He thought a moment and said pirate.  I figured it would be fairly simple to adapt various pirate flag symbols.



I think one title for this photo is "Putting the Sir in LASER."  I was sort of going for the Agatha Heterodyne look, but I missed (probably because I don't have fabulous blonde hair).









I went to the Eugene Maker Space with the design all ready to go as both an SVG and DFX file.  The CAD software seems to see DFX files more readily, so I used those.  And then I hit a problem.  The shop's laptop went into sluggish mode; after two reboots, restarting the CAD and preview software multiple times, and an infinite amount of tweaking line widths, I finally managed to get the laser cutter's control panel to accept that I wanted to cut the design the CAD software was sending it as a linear design (which would cut) and not a rastered one (which would only engrave).  I'm still not sure what I did, because after an hour of more-or-less doing the same configurations, the design suddenly appeared in the preview.


When the design is in red, the laser will cut through with a continuous line.  The photo to the left is the CAD software, and it's mostly a reminder to me that I need to set the line-width to zero, and the line type to continuous.












The laser cutter's bed is twelve by sixteen inches.  I forget the depth.  This is a view through the window; I keep the window covered when the laser's fired up because there's some debate about how laser-proof the window really is.

After two cuts, there's a lot of scorching.  In this case, scorching isn't so bad, and it adds to that "I've been in a pirate battle" that I want.








I was able to lift the frame of wood straight up and the pieces fell out and stayed within the laser cutter bed.














Originally, this was Calico Jack Rachham's flag, but the sides of the box were too narrow for the swords to be crossed underneath the skull, so I gave them their own design.  The skull's three inches wide.













If I had shrunk the design down to fit on one side, the teeth would have been too small for the laser to cut out.  I need to take a look at the kerfing gap the laser makes between two adjacent pieces of wood, but generally laser cuts can't be too much closer than an eighth of an inch before you start to get artisanal charcoal.  As it is, there's a weak spot in the skull design where the jawbone hinges.






Speaking of artisanal charcoal, last week when I tried to make super-small Penrose tiles, they fell out of the main sheet of wood and if they fell off the support grid shown here, they'd char when the out-of-focus laser would pass over them.








The back side of a skull panel.  Even with a double-cut, part of the design didn't make it all the way through the wood.  I still can't figure out what's changing, but it's probably a combination of different wood densities, different concentrations of layer adhesive, and possibly enough of a warp in the wood to take the laser out of focus enough that it doesn't cut.  Oh, and extra smoke.


The back sides of other panels.  It looks like a denser grain may be the culprit. I think the straight vertical line off of the right-hand eye is a score mark from the metal supports (maybe the laser heated it up?)



A dagger, a heart (about to be pierced), and an hourglass.  All taken from various pirate flags.  Pirates took many of their flag symbols from gravestone markers.  


Here's an example of foreground and background.  I'm including it to show what the limit of the cuts are.  The teeth actually came out as recognizable pieces of wood instead of lumps of coal.  I managed to skirt the limits of the wood's strength... I think if I were doing this again, I'd put about an eighth of an inch more between the skull and jaw cut-outs, because the skull panels are a little fragile.







 More piratical woodwork.
The box assembled, but unglued.  In the back is the lid with a larger dagger design on it.


The lid -- this is the underside, and the smaller square will fit within the box.  The dagger design is a slightly modified dagger from the other design and will sit on the top.


Arrh!  I'm pretty sure that the char marks on the outside will stay that way.  We've got some left-over glow paint, so I asked The Child if he wanted the inside to glow, and he did.