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In March of 1960, white cops massacred 69 unarmed blacks in Sharpeville, South Africa. In 1961, uMkhonto we Sizwe [Spear of the Nation] was co-founded by Nelson Mandela to fight back against white racist rule. In 1964, Mandela was sentenced to life in prison. In 1976, between 176 and 700 black protesters were killed by white policemen in Soweto. Four thousand were injured.

Teaching in Cape Town after years in the UK and US, J. M. Coetzee published Life and Times of Michael K in 1983. Its epigraph, “War is the father of all and king of all. Some he shows as gods, others as men. Some he makes slaves, and others free.”

Although it’s a novel about war in South Africa, there wasn’t one, then or later, but war was definitely in the air, so Coetzee imagined it in detail. Though Coetzee was wrong in predicting war, his depiction of a society experiencing social breakdown, degradation, paucity and draconian restrictions resonates beyond place and time.

Above all, war is displacement, from all you’ve ever known, for nothing can prepare anyone for extreme violence that doesn’t end. Even if your meaty sack is still intact and banal, indiscriminate blood hasn’t filmed your retinas, you’ve been ejected from normalcy.

To emphasize Michael K’s displacement, Coetzee makes him a harelipped bastard who spent much of his childhood in a group home. Grown, he had no friends, much less women. K scraped by on the lowliest jobs, such as tending to a public bathroom at night, where he’s “oppressed by the brilliant neon light that shone off the white tiles and created a space without shadows.”

Then K got mugged, “On his way home from work late one Friday he was set upon in a subway by two men who beat him, took his watch, his money and his shoes, and left him lying stunned with a slash across his arm, a dislocated thumb and two broken ribs.”

Sounds like Cape Town today, or Philly, Chicago or Memphis, etc., but certainly not Seoul, Tokyo, Singapore, Tirana or even Beirut, with its economic fiasco.

When K admitted his mother to a hospital, we got a better glimpse of a society in crisis, “She had spent five days lying in a corridor among scores of victims of stabbings and beatings and gunshot wounds who kept her awake with their noise, neglected by nurses who had no time to spend cheering up an old woman when there were young men dying spectacular deaths all about.”

Released, K’s mom returned to her tiny room in affluent Sea Point, where she’s a domestic servant. Triggered by a mere traffic accident, an orgy of rioting and looting then broke out:

Parked cars were smashed open and pushed broadside on into the street. Sirens announced the curfew and were ignored. An ambulance that arrived with a motorcycle escort turned about short of the barrier and raced off, chased by a hail of stones. Then from the balcony of a fourth-floor flat a man began to fire revolver shots. Amid screams the crowd dashed for cover, spreading into the beachfront apartment blocks, racing along the corridors, pounding upon doors, breaking windows and lights. The man with the revolver was hauled from his hiding-place, kicked into insensibility, and tossed down to the pavement. Some residents of the flats chose to cower in the dark behind locked doors, others fled into the streets. A woman, trapped at the end of a corridor, had her clothes torn from her body; someone slipped on a fire escape and broke an ankle. Doors were beaten down and flats ransacked. In the flat immediately above Anna K’s room, looters tore down curtains, heaped clothing on the floor, broke furniture, and lit a fire, which, though it did not spread, sent out dense clouds of smoke.

Nothing like that happened in white South Africa, and Sea Point is still elegant and pristine, with the best Chinese food in Cape Town, mostly to serve its large Jewish population.

Coetzee, though, didn’t have to overly strain his imagination, for he lived in the USA from 1965 to 1972, when black riots were common. He saw them on TV, at least. It’s a leap, however, to place such a scene in Sea Point. Even today, it’s overwhelmingly white.

Perhaps his time in the US also made Coetzee circumspect about race, especially if it suggests any foreboding about blacks, especially black revenge. Although there’s a race war here, race is never addressed, and even Michael K’s is unclear.

With his mom a domestic servant, it’s implied K was most likely not white. Nearly halfway through the novel, he’s booked at a police station as “Michael Visagie-CM-40-NFA-Unemployed.” Most readers, though, would miss that CM means colored male.

We get another tiny hint when a particularly nasty police captain is described as a “big blond man.” Railing against a group of vagrants, he accused them of being criminals, saboteurs, idlers and ingrates who, collectively, were behind South Africa’s turmoil, “You’ve asked for war, you get war!”

The you asking for war, then, were not blacks but, vaguely, society’s losers, oppressed or downtrodden. Coetzee is reframing South Africa’s racial problem as a Marxist battle between classes.

Though K was called a monkey by a farmer (a Boer, perhaps, for boer means farmer), two cops were also labeled as such by the angry blond captain.

In the camp for vagrants, an older man told K, “What they would really like—this is my opinion—is for the camp to be miles away in the middle of the Koup out of sight. Then we could come on tiptoe in the middle of the night like fairies and do their work, dig their gardens, wash their pots, and be gone in the morning leaving everything nice and clean.”

Although that describes Apartheid perfectly, that whites only want blacks for their labor, but otherwise to be mute and invisible, it is, again, reframed in Marxist terms, but only vaguely.

For a novel about South Africa, Apartheid, post-Apartheid or just general collapse, Life and Times of Michael K remains, ultimately, too abstract. For something much more grounded, thus more terrifying, we must turn to Disgrace, published 16 years later, when more evidence has been gathered.

In 1990, Mandela was released. In 1993, four blacks used hand grenades and assault weapons to kill 11 whites and coloreds inside Saint James Church in Cape Town. Fifty-eight more were wounded. In 1994, Mandela was elected president, marking the end of white rule. In 1998, the three surviving assailants of the Saint James Church Massacre were given amnesty by the Truth and Reconciliation Commission. Only one, Gcinikhaya Makoma, had been jailed, and only for 5 ½ years.

(In 2002, Makoma was arrested for robbing a cash truck, but the badly prosecuted case was thrown out. In 2007, this enterprising revolutionary was finally sentenced to 46 years for one more murder, also in Cape Town.)

Still in Cape Town, Coetzee published his masterful Disgrace in 1999. Written during the immediate aftermath of Apartheid, it introduces all the key themes, or problems, that still define South Africa.

For me, though, its beginning is not too inviting, for I’m not keen on having a professor as protagonist, especially if his sex life, yuck, yuck, yuck, is described. Sure enough, the lickably lekker coed shows up in chapter 2, right after the tall and slim colored whore in chapter 1!

 

With a wicked sense of humor, God has made me a warlord, for I now have a growing army of Angry White Pussies! They’re joining me so fast, I must turn most away, on grounds of physical or mental deficiency.

Of course, even those who can handle a few pushups and some crude English, which is their native language, after all, are useless, for they’re only adept at blathering about sheboons, ragheads and chinks, and IQ too, oh the irony, as they cower, incontinently, in their rapidly darkening continent. Russia, China, the Taliban or even army-less Tuvalu has nothing to fear from such an unmanly force, for it flinches before any transsexual Jew can throw a punch!

Thank God I’m in Cape Town, for here I’m surrounded by real men and women, of all colors. This is a tough, no nonsense place, and yes, its violence is real, I’ve never denied that, but it hasn’t made people hysterical or even uncivil.

After minimizing their chances of having house invaded, car jacked or body assaulted, they calmly go about their business. In bars and cafes, they joke and laugh. They jog, walk their dogs, stroll on beaches and even greet strangers on sidewalks. Taking out the trash before dawn, I was startled by a white man, “Good morning!”

Three taxi van drivers have just been shot to death, with a fourth injured. Of course, it’s horrible, but when I lived in Philly, only slightly better news greeted me most days. Cape Town is actually safer than Saint Louis, with Juarez the deadliest worldwide. Both cities are well worth visiting, of course, especially festive Juarez.

While wandering around Juarez with a white American friend, I was told that whenever he went there with his teenaged son, many locals would smile or nod at the young man, with some openly greeting him, “Finally, I realized my son had been coming here [from El Paso] to get laid!”

The key refreshment station for ships sailing between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, Cape Town was called Tavern of the Seas. Although the Suez Canal eliminated much of this traffic, the arrival of Asian fishing vessels half a century ago pumped new life into this gem of a city.

In his endlessly fascinating Sugar Girls and Sea Men, Henry Trotter explains, “With friendly diplomatic relations in place, Japanese companies secured Cape Town as a base for their South Atlantic tuna fishing operations. Since then, Asian seamen have streamed into the Cape Town docks. Locals remember the Japanese invasion of the 1970s to the 1990s as a golden age. The sailors came from the most dynamic economy in the world with pockets bulging with yen, and everyone wanted a piece of the action. The dockside sharps rubbed their hands in anticipation. Cabbies clamoured for the seamen’s fares. Club owners bowed and scraped for their patronage. And prostitutes bleached their hair, catering to the men’s desire for blondes. The Nipponese responded with cash—lots of it. They played with rands as if it were Monopoly money and they paid with wads rather than notes… So the story goes.”

They were joined by Korean, Taiwanese and Chinese trawlers. To reduce cost, Filipino, Indonesian and Vietnamese fishermen were also employed, so there were lots of Orientals passing through Cape Town. During the last two decades, Chinese tourists have also flooded in. Covid stopped all this.

Only unthinking ideologues deny biological differences between ethnic groups. Khoikhoi and Zulus, for example, are not remotely the same. You also have cultural differences, as sustained by history, traditions, geography and language.

Hanging out with Cape Town’s prostitutes for a year and half, without touching them or even drinking, so unlike, say, William T. Vollmann, Trotter records their sociological, anthropological and economic discernment:

Over the years, dockside women have created a mental database of stereotypes to deal with each nationality. This allows them to size up their options quickly with the incoming crews […]

Japanese seamen are the alpha clients of the dockside trade: they’re considered the richest, kindest, cleanest, most generous and most prestigious […] They’re also said to be completely loyal to anyone who is honest with them. If they like a cabby, he’ll be theirs for life. The same often goes in their relationships with the women […] However, the bouncers say the Japanese are useless in a fight, describing them as ‘butter.’

Taiwanese sailors rank just behind the Japanese […] Though the women think they’re unimaginative sexually, they’re seen as good fighters.

Koreans enjoy a high status similar to that of the Taiwanese […] But they’re also highly volatile. The women say, ‘Don’t make a fool of them or they’ll make a fool of you.’ They don’t take kindly to taunting or disrespect, and they’re abrasive and possessive. The bouncers say they ‘act like shit when they’re drunk’ and ‘fight like demons.’

Filipinos make up the largest national group among seafarers, but they’re a diverse bunch […] Some are cosmopolitan coastal dwellers, while others are upcountry hill people. But they’re considered the most romantic seafarers: like Manuel, they say the sweetest things to the women, often inviting them home and promising marriage. They’re also very sentimental, depicting their lives in highly melodramatic tones. The women consider them big liars, though, because they almost never make good on their boasts. They seem to have a fetish for white women, paying between R400 and R800 for the privilege of going with one. They’re also good fighters.

Indonesians typically stay in port for four to five days. They have money and want to spend it quickly on the women. They find it easier to connect with coloured Muslim women because of religious similarities. But the women claim they’re playboys who like to take a different woman each time […] They’re considered the prettiest boys of the lot and average fighters.

Chinese crews have become prominent on the trawlers over the last decade […] They stay in port for a long time, and most of their evenings at the clubs are spent drinking and flirting, not making sexual contracts. The women complain that the Chinese sailors don’t clean themselves properly; even worse, they’re rough and grabby, sometimes even trying to trick the ladies into cheap sexual hook-ups. The Chinese fight well but not to kill.

At the bottom of the prestige pile are the Vietnamese sailors, who make very little money. The women say they’re cheap, always trying to scam them for free sex. At the clubs, they buy the cheapest liquor and pay only R200 to R500 per sexual engagement. According to the bouncers, they’re extremely dangerous: they have no fear whatsoever and boast a lethal knowledge of anatomy.

Since I’m not rich, a pretty boy or much of a fighter, I must be at the very bottom of the Vietnamese pile, but hey, at least I have a bansheeing rabble of Angry White Pussies, always on my tail to sniff for anything untoward. I’m a leader of half men.

A deft storyteller, Trotter crafts unforgettable vignettes. Here’s one:

One evening at one of the clubs, I watched Renata—a coloured veteran who’d been in the game for years—enter the karaoke room quite late. The place was packed, but all the sailors were already busy with women. She skulked around a while, looking for an opening with a man. But with women draped around their shoulders, the men seemed content. Renata stood by the bar and listened to the seamen sing karaoke numbers for a while. Then she placed a request with the DJ.

 
• Category: Culture/Society • Tags: Apartheid, South Africa 

Coming to Cape Town, I was a bit concerned I wouldn’t be able to walk around much. A Captonian had warned me I would be taking my life into my own hands, although he prayed to God he was wrong.

You can’t experience any place without walking around, however, for it’s the only way to see, sniff and feel it, at a human pace, without barriers. A borderless body among others, you must be continually exposed to the landscape.

If I could meander through Gary, Jackson and Camden, the last countless times, surely I can duck, weave and bob my way through Cape Town?

Soon enough, I found out this was no war zone. As one born into a war, I should be able to recognize soldier thickened streets, weary MPs, dismal amputees, abject refugees, child beggars, sad, garish whores, sullen tanks, screaming jets, thump-thump-thumping helicopters at any time, artillery thuds, blindfolded captives on trucks, sandbags and barbed wires.

Granted, I’ve seen more razor wires in Cape Town than anywhere else. They top walls, wrap around pipes and entangle tree trunks. Still, Cape Town is far from a city at war.

Let’s not get hysterical like this squawking gentleman, “Is it wonderful you have all kinds of different things to eat, but you are living in a war zone, with the existential threat of white annihilation ever imminent?” Sounds like Jews with their looping Holocaust wailing, except Talmudists get lots of political and economic benefits from their horror porn.

An Angry White Pussy on Twitter, “South Africa is great; the trope that black men just want to rape white females is just a myth; you guys are just racist. Oh, fuck off Linh Dinh.” To characterize Cape Town as heavenly and hellish is hardly to call South Africa, a vast country nearly twice the size of Texas, great, and since I’ve said nothing about black men raping white women, why is he conjuring up black penises? It must be terrible to be haunted by such a trope!

One day, I walked five miles down Voortrekker Road, from Belleville to Goodwood. On another trip up that way, I had had a fantastic Ethiopian meal at Out of Africa, so this time, I was looking forward to another pleasant surprise.

(Out of Africa didn’t even have a menu in English, or Afrikaans, for that matter, so I told the lady to just give me whatever. Such a lovely crew, those four smiling women. When I started to sweat from my food’s spiciness, one brought me a whole roll of paper towel. Dropping in for lunch, a man just sat at my table. Spongy bread united us.)

Fleeing English rule, Boers trekked inland. Boer in Dutch means peasant or farmer. Peasant has a condescending connotation which farmer doesn’t, so you have, for example, Vietnamese peasants, but American farmers. Since the English boorish is derived from boer, you can deduce what the Brits thought of these farmers of mostly Dutch heritage.

During the Boer War, 26,000 Boer women and children died, from diseases or starvation, in British concentration camps. Brits, though, saw themselves as morally superior for they had stopped Boers from owning African or Asian slaves, the latter brought from the Malay Archipelago.

On Voortrekker, there are squarish stores with broad frontages flaunting huge letters, a frontier look not unusual in hypothetically urban Cape Town. There are churches offering prophetic healings, deliverances, empowerment services or, simply, miracles, with these not dispensed by no effete, dress-wearing priests, but robust, bombastic bishops, apostles, prophets and prophetesses, all but the last overly equipped with stallion-sized tropes to terrify the pale hearted.

Passing a neon-lit eatery with an A-frame sign outside, a pool table in the middle and a small window to the kitchen at the back, I almost walked in. Finally, though, I ran into one that was goofily perfect, Chelsea Malewa in Goodwood. I vaguely associated its name with the London squad, now atop the Premiership, and I also liked the huge thumbs-up painted on its wall. Starving, I strolled in.

The smell that greeted me, however, was that of fish, both fried and raw, and wet garbage or a clogged sink of dirty dishes. Most sane people would have run out, but I didn’t want to offend its owner/cook, a slim, unsmiling copper-colored woman with dark rimmed eyes, in a black and indigo headscarf, black blouse and indigo apron. Seeing such careful color coordination, I was hoping her food would also be well-tuned. Sucking it up, I ordered rice with chicken and spinach, but nothing to drink, for this place was so lame, it didn’t have any.

It was truly brutal, bra. I’d rather starve for three days than go through that again. My spinach was cold, my rice lukewarm and my chicken preposterously tough, with everything absolutely flavorless. It was like eating leftover that had been sitting on the counter for two or three days. For this privilege, possibly the worst meal I’ve ever had, I paid $3.51.

Again, to not offend the strangely grim woman, I gave the appearance of eating voraciously, though all I was trying to do was finishing my meal as quickly as possible, so I could get the hell out of there.

Free at last, I thought of that old joke about a guy who walks into a bar and orders one shot after another, all different kinds. After his 10th, the bartender says, “Take it easy, buddy. What’s the occasion?”

“It’s my first blow job.”

“Congratulations!”

“Thanks, but it’s impossible to get that taste out of my mouth.”

Although my experience at Chelsea Malewa was lamentable, it certainly added to my understanding of Cape Town. Like its wealth gap or neighborhoods, there is a vast range here, as wide as anywhere.

 
• Category: Culture/Society • Tags: South Africa 

Max Jacob’s most famous poem is “La mendiante de Naples,” or “The Beggar Woman of Naples”:

When I lived in Naples, there was at the door of my building a beggar woman to whom I would toss some coins before climbing into my car.

.. One day, surprised at never having been thanked, I looked at the beggar woman.

Now, as I looked, I saw that what I had taken to be a beggar woman, there’s a wooden crate painted green that contained some red earth and a few half rotten bananas.

There’s no surer way to stop people from reading than to insert a poem into an article. To commit this vile act right at the beginning is to chase away nearly everybody. Fine, it’s just you and me, then, all three of us, so move closer.

Just as Jacob mistook some spoilt bananas for a destitute woman, perhaps the Angry White Pussies, rarely seen in real life, but swarming all over the internet, are crypto Jews?

Take my hecklers, for example. Some are apparently real people, but some sound so moronic and deranged, one must wonder if they’re fake personas concocted by, say, Jews? After all, I haven’t been the greatest friend to adherents of the Talmud, despite my lifelong devotion to chopped liver.

If you’re a hasbara agent, you can try to kill two birds with one stone by attacking any “anti-Semite” while pretending you’re a stupendously stupid white guy.

Exposed to such, foreigners may conclude that Americans have become so absurdly moronic, they deserve their bankruptcy and degradation, such as being led by a reality TV conman or braindead pederast.

How mentally challenged are these Angry White Pussies? After I had interviewed a white man, an AWP attacked me for what this white man said!

Too imbecilic to understand that an interview involves two people who don’t have to agree on anything, this AWP ranted, “The next time I see a gook name on this site, I’m not even going to bother reading what it has to say. It’s already made up its mind about me, so I’ll return the favor. Fuck you too, slant-eyed cunt. I hope the next time you play Minecraft and walk around a city controlled by the Democrats you vote for, a mentally ill nigger crackhead tweaking on fentanyl, marijuana, methamphetamine, etc. knocks you the fuck out for no reason and takes your inventory. If that happens to you I’m sure you’d still be blaming whites, considering you’re stupid enough to return to a 3rd world country you’re a wanted criminal in.”

Even after a bottle of Four Roses, swigged at record speed without any Hostess Donettes as whore duh, a sleep-deprived retard can’t sound this concussed, so maybe he’s no AWP, but a Jewish ambulance chaser or bookish rabbi amusing himself after dim sum?

Again, I’m not against individual Jews, but only Jewish thinking, so I’ll condemn someone like the Egyptian Nasser, for example, for deploying us vs. them (a natural outgrowth of chosen vs. unchosen) and collective guilt, to wreck his country.

Jewish thinking is the militant refusal to see individuals, only groups, so it violently shoehorns everyone into categories.

If you hate the bourgeoise, landowners, urban dwellers, rural folks, whites, blacks, Latinos, Orientals, Jews, homosexuals, vegetarians, meat eaters or billionaires, etc., you’re indulging in Jewish thinking.

I have no time to hate anybody. I just hate Jewish thinking. Plus, as a traveler, it wouldn’t be wise to stumble into strange lands with an assholic attitude, not only because locals will gladly repay you in kind (plus interest), but you won’t even see them, so why bother coming?

Even if they’re not Jewish sock puppets, Angry White Pussies serve Jews. By ranting away so idiotically, they can only lead sane observers to conclude, My God, these white extremists are truly clueless monsters!

There is an AWP who keeps insisting I make everything up, that I wasn’t in Albania months ago, and I’m not in South Africa now, “I doubt Linh is in South Africa. It is possible these days to sit at the coffee shop and write travel blogs complete with photos […]
This little Gook wants to show how tough he is. Its the old story, the 5 foot pygmies are always into the Rambo thing. Yet, a few harsh words and Linda Linh is triggered.” Elsewhere, he suggests I’m a homeless man in San Francisco. That’s not commenting. It’s insanity. Somehow, I’ve pushed this pitiful AWP over the edge.

As sadistic Deliverance buggers, aw-shucks Beverly Hillbillies, Flannery O’Connor’s dumbshit white trash or swinish and fart cupping Honey Boo Boo, poor whites have long been caricatured in America, so the AWP may just be another repulsive rendition. Acting grotesquely, he defeats himself while benefiting his worst enemies, with none laughing harder than social engineering Jews.

Offline, he also serves Jews perfectly, for he votes for Jewish puppets, sends tributes to smirking Jews and pays to become addicted to Jewish media. He borrows money from Jewish usurers to send his kids to Jewish dominated colleges to be brainwashed by Jewish thinking. With each war for Jews, he’ll enlist or cheer it, at least, plus tithing his income. Jewish wars are festooned with American flags on porches, cars, clothing and coffins.

Prompted by Jews, many hate whomever Jews despise, be it Russia, Muslims or even themselves!

Even those who realize they’re merely Jewish throwaway tools don’t dare to whisper “Jews,” not even when alone, with all the lights turned off, lest they dox themselves.

Nor will they do anything about their darkening prospects, beyond virtually huffing their castrated rage against Muslim war refugees, Mexican busboys and, well, a guy like me whose last book, Postcards from the End of America, is mostly about the plight of poor whites, and some poor blacks, too.

Since Angry White Pussies do everything to benefit Jews, it’s only fair to ask if they’re crypto Jews?

Some may be, but most are probably not. Having spent their entire lives in a Jewish maze where lies lead to lies, they’re well-conditioned to bark, growl, grovel or play dead, anything to please their master.

Good boy!

 
• Tags: White Nationalists 

Canceled in the USA, I’ve emerged triumphant in South Africa. I’m huge here, for real. Everywhere I go, people know my name.

“Mr. Miyagi!”

“Hello, Jackie Chan!”

“Hi, Mr. Lee.”

“Hey, Bruce Lee!”

“Ni hao!”

“Ching ching!” accompanied by a huge smile.

My self worth restored, I strut. As I pass two chunky prostitutes in Bellville, one laughingly says, “Free to Chinese people.” Now, that’s prestige.

Short skirts or tight pants showcase their bulging buttocks and thick thighs, for locals demand lots of cushion for the pushing. The matchstick thin would snap in two. In groups of three, four or five, they display themselves and wait.

Robert Crumb must have been inspired by caricatures of the Hottentot Venus. More recently, we have Kim Kardashian popping a champagne bottle to ejaculate a creamy white stream of bubbly over her head into a glass perched on her huge rump.

Treated like a freak in Europe, pinched and poked at, Sarah Bartmann has become a symbol of her people’s dehumanized treatment. At age 25 or 26, Bartmann died in Paris in 1815. Eighty-seven years later, she was finally returned to the Eastern Cape to be buried. In Cape Town, there’s the Saartjie Baartman Centre for Women and Children, and the main hall at the University of Cape Town is named after her.

As inscribed on Bartmann’s grave, “The site has spiritual, cultural, social and historical significance. The treatment of Sarah Bartmann during her life and after her death speaks of suffering, dispossession, sadness and loss of dignity, culture, community, language and life. It is a symptom of the inhumanity of people.”

Although man’s inhumanity is a constant, and you can’t indict it enough, Bartmann was actually complicit in her own degradation.

It was certainly not black and white, for many Europeans didn’t find her show too amusing. Here’s an account from one disturbed contemporary:

She was extremely ill, and the man insisted on her dancing, this being one of the tricks which she is forced to display. The poor creature pointed to her throat and to her knees as if she felt pain in both, pleading with tears that he would not force her compliance. He declared that she was sulky, produced a long piece of bamboo, and shook it at her: she saw it, knew its power, and, though ill, delayed no longer. While she was playing on a rude kind of guitar, a gentleman in the room chanced to laugh: the unhappy woman, ignorant of the cause, imagined herself the object of it, and as though the slightest addition and as though the slightest addition to the woes of sickness, servitude, and involuntary banishment from her native land was more than she could bear, her broken spirit was aroused for a moment, and she endeavored to strike him with the musical instrument which she held: but the sight of the long bamboo, the knowledge of its pain, and the fear of incurring it again, calmed her. The master declared that she was as wild as a beast, and the spectators agreed with him, forgetting that the language of ridicule is the same, and understood alike, in all countries, and that not one of them could bear to be the object of derision without an attempt to revenge the insult.

Many similar responses led the white-run African Institution to take her impresario, a colored man, to court, but Bartmann refused to be freed from him and return to Africa (at the African Institution’s expense).

In his Early African Entertainments Abroad, Bernth Linfords sums up Bartmann’s situation:

She had agreed to allow herself to be exhibited indecently to the European public, and she persisted in this tawdry occupation for more than five years, stopping only when her health finally broke down. She may have been the victim of the cruelest kind of predatory ruthlessness, but her collusion in her own victimization seems clear. She wanted the show to go on and the profits to keep rolling in. She wanted to capitalize on Western curiosity.

One can argue that her poverty and illiteracy allowed her to be used, but that’s too patronizing, for it implies she was incapable of making life choices. Many say the same of prostitutes, and yes, Bartmann was likely one also.

In any case, Bartmann didn’t consent to having her body cast displayed at the Musée de l’Homme in Paris for a century and a half. In 1982, this stiff and naked “African” was finally removed from the bemused, disgusted or scandalized gazes of clothed visitors.

Confronted with a foreign body, we’re naturally curious, so we gaze, flirt, fuck or even kill, with the last two not all that rare throughout history. Since I’m in Africa, let’s talk about Africa. Am I in Africa?

I’m pretty sure I’m in Africa, although with the internet, the Nescafe Coffee I’m drinking with condensed milk (Vietnamese style) and the Seattle Seahawks highlights I checked out this morning, I could be almost anywhere. For lunch, though, I will have a bototie pie, yum yum, so I’m really in Africa! South Africa.

A pioneering European explorer of the African interior, the Scottish Mungo Park got a very raw deal, indeed, but he too, courted his own doom.

Looking for the source of the Niger, Park went to Africa twice. After all the misfortunes, hardship and near-death experiences Park encountered on his first trip, in 1795-97, most people would have stayed the hell away from the Dark Continent, but Park couldn’t stand being happily married back home, so he had to return.

On both trips, blacks actually treated Park rather well, and sometimes even profoundly so.

Traveling with a caravan of slaves about to be sold (by their black master), Park was even looked after by these wretched men and women. Unlike Park, they had to carry huge burdens on their heads, with one woman, exhausted, beaten then stung by bees, left behind to die. Park:

During a wearisome peregrination of more than five hundred British miles, exposed to the burning rays of a tropical sun, these poor slaves, amidst their own infinitely greater sufferings, would commiserate mine; and frequently of their own accord bring water to quench my thirst, and at night collect branches and leaves to prepare me a bed in the Wilderness.

It’s certainly not anything like the Hollywood or cartoony image of a lone white being cooked in a pot by black savages, but that’s why travelers’ accounts are valuable. If truthful, they add to our understanding with nuanced or surprising depictions.

During another leg of Park’s first trip, he entered the native village (in present-day Gambia) of someone in his caravan:

When we arrived at the blacksmith’s place of residence we dismounted and fired our muskets. The meeting between him and his relations was very tender; for these rude children of nature, free from restraint, display their emotions in the strongest and most expressive manner. Amidst these transports, the blacksmith’s aged mother was led forth, leaning upon a staff. Every one made way for her; and she stretched out her hand to bid her son welcome. Being totally blind, she stroked his hands, arms, and face, with great care, and seemed highly delighted that her latter days were blessed by his return, and that her ears once more heard the music of his voice. From this interview I was fully convinced, that whatever difference there is between the Negro and European, in the conformation of the nose and the colour of the skin, there is none in the genuine sympathies and characteristic feelings of our common nature.

As said, Park had many horrible encounters, with most of them at the hands of the Moors, which by Park’s time meant North African Arabs.

 
• Category: Culture/Society • Tags: Africa, Racism, South Africa 

In boxing, there are bangers and dancers, but the very best, a Meldrick Taylor, say, could concuss and rupture yet still pirouette with finesse. If you waltz too much, you’ll lose fans. Even with a perfect record of 50-0, cake walking Floyd Mayweather has detractors.

South African Corrie Sanders was no juking pussy. Although his main passion was golf, “The Sniper” had enough balled viciousness to crumble opponents, including Wladimir Klitschko, with a hammering left. Retired, Sanders was murdered by three young Zimbabweans during a robbery at his nephew’s 21st birthday party. Shielding his daughter, the bleeding Sanders told her to pretend to be dead.

Even famous South Africans aren’t spared of this country’s casual mayhem. At 82-years-old, Nadine Gordimer suffered a home invasion by four blacks.

The Guardian quoted the widowed Nobel laureate, “One grabbed me and had his arm across me. It was a muscular, smooth arm and I thought, ‘Shouldn’t there be a better use for these hands, this arm than robbing an old woman?’ What a waste of four young men. They should have jobs […] He pulled off my ring. He held me tight, against his chest. I was very close to his face and could see he had very little beard. He didn’t shave often. I would put his age at 18 to 22.”

Gordimer’s solution, “South Africa needs a huge jobs program, like what Roosevelt did in the United States. That will prevent youth from turning to crime.”

South Africa’s official unemployment rate is 32.6%. For those aged 15 to 34, an astounding 46.3% are jobless.

In Cape Town, the poorest are generally in the black townships, with many living in shacks. The homeless, including coloreds and whites, can be seen in nearly all neighborhoods, however. On Longmarket, they collapse, with chichi Tjing Tjing and Mochi Mochi just across the via via. They sleep right outside the grand Parliament complex, with its equestrian statue of Louis Botha, “FARMER / WARRIOR / STATESMAN.” Despite protests and vandalism, Botha’s still riding high.

At many intersections, there are beggars, with some wearing shirts advertising businesses even. In Bellville, two white women approached me, with one pleading, “We are decent people, but my mother is sick today.” Following me for a block and a half, a colored man kept hustling me for more change, so he could buy milk for his baby, he claimed. A young black man with carved giraffes stated, “I’m not a beggar, I’m an artist, but I’ve made nothing today. Please give me something, sir, for my baby?”

There are also “car guards” who will direct a motorist to a parking space, help him park, rather unnecessarily, I’d think, then watch over his car, for a small tip. If you’re rude to one, he might just run a key along your gleaming BMW. As a rule, though, they’re unintrusive, courteous and don’t beg. Seeing all these black men in yellow reflective vests, I had mistaken them for municipal employees.

Though bad enough, Cape Town’s homeless crisis is not as visible as, say, in Los Angeles or San Francisco.

One day before dawn, I walked two miles from Kloof to the taxi van depot. In the dark, I passed a bunch of people, all black, going to work. Three young women cheerfully chattered.

On Upper Orange, stately houses lurked behind tall walls topped with electric fencing. Cold enough, I hunched. From inside a crude, weather-beaten tent, a man and a woman muttered.

On Buitenkant, there was a wood fire under a battered black pot. From the plastic-covered dwelling next to it, a stooping, thin crone emerged. Down the sidewalk, more disheveled hovels slumped.

At a bus stop, a McDonald’s ad for its Grand Chicken Special seemed like a taunt, almost. What a lusciously lekker stack! I’ve seen homeless of all colors digging through trash cans for food.

Like in most European cities, Cape Town’s downtown is anchored by its train station. This has become a shell of itself, however. None of the electric departure and arrival boards work. Tracks are mostly forlorn, there are few shops and the outside has become an open black market, with vendors selling fruits and vegetables.

Walkway columns are plastered with flyers advertising abortions and penis enlargement, mostly, but also magic potions or witchcraft to win a court case, solve financial problems or recover a lost lover.

With voodoo, you can be free of consequences, physical shortcomings or even the universal curse of losing this and that, until you lose everything, so give me a call, eh? I can cure you of all but the “painful exit.”

Next to the train station is the taxi van depot, a spot I’ve become familiar with, since there’s no cheaper way, by far, to get around this vast metropolis. Each van I get on, I’m the only non-black, interestingly, although whites, I’m sure, must hop on one of these, I don’t know, once every decade?

Whatever, it’s good to be accepted. Although the legal limit for each van is 15 passengers, they routinely pack in two or three more, so we’re always sitting shoulder to shoulder.

Having taken buses and vans my whole life, I know damn well why they’re so comforting. For the duration of the trip, you don’t have to do anything!

Even if you have the shittiest job, you’re not there yet, so the funky van is a blessed reprieve. Plus, there’s much to see out the windows, almost too much, and you’re with people who love you!

Well, maybe not, but at least they won’t kill you while you’re all jammed inside a stuffy steel box that’s redolent of body oils and arm pits… We’re all the same, dude, and heading in the same direction, until you get off, that is, so hallelujah!

Cape Town, bra! Cape Town, sista! Cape Town, boss?”

 

In my last two articles, I pointed out the obvious, that war profiteers, whorish politicians and Jewish social engineers are destroying America. (If this is still news to you, then you are either an infant or a world-class moron.)

My indictment didn’t sit well with several commenters, however, so I was accused of being, among other things, a warmonger, hater of whites, privileged immigrant who should give up my American passport and, get this, a “Jewish acolyte”!

Alexandros, “Foreigners really have no business commenting on the affairs of Europeans. It’s normal to take criticism from your own, but not from your enemies. That is an affront.”

In short, all these brave yet incognito “Europeans” were pissed at me for fingering those who were ramming truncheons up their asses!

When the raped identify with their rapists to this degree, there’s nothing anyone can do, especially a foreign enemy like me, so I’m really sorry to have interrupted your oh-so-moreish coitus.

The very foreign Taliban did more than comment on the affairs of Europeans! They gave the European Biden and the entire white world, what’s left of it, quite a lot to suck on, but let’s keep all the criticism in-house, among Europeans only, so do tune out everyone but Trump, Pelosi, Carson, Hannity, Hedges, Krugman, Goodman or Chomsky, etc. If you ever hear “Jew” from any of them, in any context, please alert me!

Holocaust! Remember the Holocaust. Six zillion gassed! Your baker, butcher, mailman, babysitter or grandma might be an ex Nazi guard at Auschwitz. Night and day, six billion Holocaust survivors convulse in fear of the next Holocaust. There’s a life-sized Hitler crouching inside each goy, that’s for sure. Torah! Torah! Torah!

Now, I go back to writing about what I had for breakfast this morning, and what I see out my window.

In Cape Town for three weeks, I’ve come to love my neighborhood, Gardens, as well as adjacent Tamboerskloof and City Bowl. Nearby Bo-Kaap is also very pleasant, of course.

Those who know Kaapstad might interject, “Yo, these are all whitey neighborhoods! You wouldn’t be riffing such free jizz had you relocated to Mitchells Plain.”

Since I’m not there, I wouldn’t know, but you’re most likely right. Unless one’s particularly suicidal, it’s not prudent to move into a black township in South Africa, Chicago or Philadelphia. I ain’t stupid.

The worst Cape Town gang is The Americans, by the way. Though not as murderous as a US platoon jihading for Jews, these Americans are lethal enough. With Uncle Sam the champ at glamorizing violence, these Capetonians can’t resist the cool brand.

In Gardens, I’ve established a routine. Most mornings, I eat breakfast at home, since I have a kitchen, but if I feel like treating myself, I head to Arnold’s, just a five-minute downhill stroll away.

Leaving my door, I’m always astounded by the magnificent Table Mountain. Jutting straight up, it’s a 3,500-foot-high granite and sandstone wall.

On the way to Arnold’s, I pass Thai, Vietnamese, Portuguese/Mozambican, Italian, Arabic, Indian and Turkish restaurants, as well as a well-stocked Checkers Supermarket, and Soy Joy Oriental Food, with its fish, soy, teriyaki, hoisin, oyster and satay sauces, etc., plus bok choy, homemade kimchi and various Korean instant noodles.

For $6.65 at Arnold’s, I get coffee, two eggs, two thick slices of bacon, two hash browns, three pork chipolatas, two hunks of fried tomato, six chunks of eland steak and six chunks of ostrich steak. (Compare this feast with the $5.56 McDonald’s Big Breakfast with Hot Cakes, with its miserable single patty of jivey sausage.)

To enter Arnold’s, you must sign in and leave your phone number (or email) after having your temperature taken.

I asked the young man, “What’s a bad temperature, man?”

“Twenty-seven. If you’re at 27 or higher, you can’t go in.”

“Has anyone shown up like that?”

“No.”

“Maybe it doesn’t exist!” We laughed. Always sprightly, he would even dance a few steps behind the cash register.

Like at most Cape Town restaurants, Arnold’s waitstaff is entirely black. Since it opens at 6AM, the morning crew has to get up at 4. Vans, called taxis here, bring them in from distant townships. In the dark and chill, OPEN in red neon shines above Arnold’s roof.

Nearly all of Arnold’s customers are white. One morning, I met an Englishman. Escaping the always dismal UK winter, he arrived in December for a three-month holiday. Enjoying the cheery and sophisticated Cape Town so much, he decided to linger.

When he applied for a visa extension in March, they took his passport and said he’d receive an answer in eight to ten weeks, but he hadn’t heard from them as of late August. Since he had a temporary ID, he’s legal here, but without his passport, he couldn’t leave.

To get a visa extension in South Korea, all I had to do was schedule an appointment at the immigration office, then showed up days later to receive my approval within half an hour.

To receive Covid-related welfare, South Africans must stay in line for two days, meaning they must sleep outside a government office, then wait four months to get their first payment.

That’s the post-Apartheid South African bureaucracy for you. Corrupta et incompetens should be its motto, etched in stone.

Here, only 8% of murders end with convictions, and just 7% of rapes. South African sidewalks, then, are swarming with uncaught murderers and rapists.

Accused of rape, Jacob Zuma was acquitted. Knowing she was HIV positive, Zuma still didn’t wear a condom, he said, but he did take a shower afterwards, to wash away the AIDS. If it’s not meat on meat, it’s meaningless, I suppose. Before becoming president of South Africa, Zuma was president of the African National Congress. The massive rioting in Durban recently was started by Zuma’s supporters.

(You can gauge a population’s mental retardation by its superstitions. In one, morons actually believe a 47-story skyscraper can collapse in seconds, into its own footprint, without anything hitting it!)

Any city is best explored on foot, so one day, I decided to trek down to Woodstock and Salt River.

I was mindful, however, of a gentle warning I had received from an Unz reader, “As an old dog who’s grown up around Cape Town, and having seen what this captured country’s become, I go nowhere on foot anymore […] Cape Town has not been spared change for the worse. I can’t help thinking that you may be taking your life into your own hands in deciding to go walk-about though. I pray to God that I’m wrong.”

 
• Category: Culture/Society • Tags: South Africa 

When Ichiro played in the Major Leagues, he was always hounded by a mob of Japanese journalists and photographers, starting with the first day of Spring Training. Sick of this, he told an interviewer he wished they would just disappear.

“From your life?”

“No, from this earth.”

The USA, though, is not being pestered but deformed, debilitated and, well, frankly destroyed by a host of people, many of whom you may not have heard of, so let’s us:

Imagine there’s no George Soros,

No Bill Gates, Rupert Murdoch or Klaus Schwab, too.

No Jeff Zucker, Mark Zuckerberg, Arthur Sulzberger,

Jonathan Greenblatt, Larry Fink, David Solomon,

Robert Iger, Charles Scharf, Jamie Dimon,

Steve Schwarzman, Jeremy Zimmer, Len Blavatnik,

Andy Slavitt, Jeffrey Zients, Anthony Fauci,

Jessica Rosenworcel, Janet Yellen, Gary Gensler,

Betsy Berns Korn, Mort Fridman or, what the hell,

Nancy Pelosi also, mostly because she’s so icky.

Even more than most lists, it’s highly incomplete, but you get the idea. Or maybe not. It’s too eclectic, you say, if not confusing. What do they have in common?

They are all social engineers, out to remake America in ways that have nothing to do, at least initially, with the wishes of its majority, so there goes your democracy. As new norms are relentlessly propagandized, legalized then imposed, most Americans will learn to embrace their newly cowed, castrated selves.

Many clearly have. When I tried to indict a cynical and sinister Uncle Sam in my last article, one who has wrecked not just dozens of foreign countries, but America itself, several readers took offense, not at Sammy, the Jew-jerked puppet, but me!

Clearly, they identify with the steel boots that are pinned on their faces, so fine, let them embrace their increasingly wretched fate, but what about others? What about their children? Due to their parents’ nauseating cowardice, American kids are inheriting hell.

Notice I didn’t bother to list Biden, not because he’s already dead, but because American politicians are merely cabana boys and girls for their social engineering paymasters. From president on down, they decide absolutely nothing.

Truly moronic, Americans keep waiting for the next election to vote in their savior, or they vote for an “independent” candidate as a symbolic gesture. By merely voting, however, they endorse a system that’s openly destroying them.

With voting machines that can’t be audited, American presidential elections are designed to be rigged, with one of two vetted candidates allowed to win to keep the intramural bickering and catfight lurching along, to distract the dummies from seeing what’s going on.

(The last American politician with any integrity was Cynthia McKinney, and they’ve chased her all the way to Bangladesh. Once disappeared, she’s never mentioned by any former colleague, such is their collective cowardice.)

In any case, you don’t want to turn a clown like Obama or Trump, say, into a martyr or, God forbid, national hero, to be worshipped for centuries.

Not that America is likely to last another decade, especially since most of its “patriots” are curled up, with their eyes shut tight, as waves of degeneracy, idiocy and infamy lap over them.

As their family graves are routinely crapped on by their ruling wardens, these pant-soiling patriots keep muttering, “Please don’t fire, deplatform or cancel me, massa! I’ll do whatever you say. I’ve never whispered one bad word about you, not even online. I’ve only used my internet privilege to spit at Afghan refugees and Mexican dishwashers, but no, no, no, I’m no racist! Black lives matter! Please give me the blackest flip-flop to french kiss!”

Conditioned by Hollywood to enjoy others being chopped or blown up, many Americans are getting a kick out of the current terror and panic in Afghanistan. Some justify this sick schadenfreude by saying these Afghans are collaborators who fully deserve their punishment or even death, but guess which country has provided the most collaborators, by far, to the evil empire?

America, of course.

To the millions who have fought for war profiteers and Jews, you must add all the employees of Lockheed Martin, Northrop Grumman, Boeing, General Dynamics and Raytheon, etc., as well as all the academics who go along with the perverted, mostly Jewish-led social engineering agenda, and the journalists who spew nonsense and lies daily, on and on, so that, really, about the only innocent Americans are the little kids, those who will inherit a hellish, denatured reality as constructed by their clueless or spineless parents, not to mention an astronomical mountain of debts, as brought into being by a Jewish-dominated banking system.

Many Americans are also laughing at the quick collapse of the Afghan Army, but 66,000 of them did die fighting the Taliban and other opposition groups (who themselves suffered 51,191 deaths). 117,191 Afghan men, then, laid down their lives over conflicting versions of Afghanistan.

Do prove me wrong, but the only country that’s going down without any fight whatsoever is the United States of America.

 
• Category: Ideology • Tags: Israel Lobby, Political Correctness 

Promising freedom, democracy and prosperity, America brings widespread destruction and death, but it’s all good, for the war profiteers. Since each Uncle Sam misadventure is a bonanza for them, the more, the merrier. Bring it on!

On April 21st, 1975, I was still in Saigon. As the Vietnam War neared its end, there was much turmoil, obviously, and much fear. I had stopped going to school. With Da Lat overrun, my aunt and her family showed up at our house.

After an 11-day battle, Xuan Loc, just 44 miles from Saigon, had just fallen. On our black and white television, I watched President Nguyen Van Thieu say:

The Americans have asked us to do an impossible thing… You have asked us to do something you failed to do, with half a million powerful troops and skilled commanders, and with nearly $300 billion in expenditure over six long years.

If I do not say that you were defeated by the communists in Vietnam, I must modestly say that you did not win either. But you found an honorable way out. And at present, when our army lacks weapons, ammunition, helicopters, aircraft and B-52s (bombers), you ask us to do an impossible thing, like filling up the ocean with stones…

Likewise, you have let our soldiers die under the hail of shells. This is an inhumane act by an inhumane ally. Refusing to aid an ally and abandoning it is an inhumane act…

The United States is proud of being an invincible defender of the just cause and the ideal of freedom in the world… Are US statements worthy? Are US commitments still valid?

Less than a week later, I would be fleeing from Tan Son Nhat, on a C-130. Sitting on the floor, I wished I had a packet of instant noodles to munch on, uncooked, like some other kids.

Just hours after it took off, the North Vietnamese would shell the airport, rendering it useless while killing many people exactly like me, just trying to escape.

Watching Afghans fleeing in panic in 2021, Americans can even laugh, however. Andrew Anglin, “Look at them running! Run, faggots, run!”

Anglin also calls them “sluts and other sinners.” This is very bad form, Andrew. If they’re faggots, sluts and sinners, then Uncle Sam was their pimp, john, rapist and bugger, which is accurate enough, but how can you blame foreigners for believing in Slick Sam’s sexy come-on, his glammy image and thumping pitch, when even Americans don’t know better?

Sidestepping human shit and collapsed grandpas on downtown sidewalks, they still think America is number one!

“SUPPORT OUR TROOPS” signs, banners and stickers adorn working class bars and storefronts across the USA. Even after so many self-defeating wars that bankrupt their nation while murdering millions of innocents, they continue to enlist.

With guns, will travel. No one else thinks like this. I wonder how many Americans can even identify ten countries on a map, or maybe just five?

In 2013, I met a woman in Cheyenne who said her daughter was stationed in North Korea. I bet most Americans don’t even know they’re paying to have at least 900 troops in Syria. Where is Syria?

With their own neighbors or relatives slaughtered, they can’t stop fighting for war profiteers or Jews, for it has become an American rite of passage. Even queers and trannies demand a piece of this Satanic action.

As for whom they must fight, they don’t even have a clue, or they’re too cowed to name their true enemies. There’s no true resistance or hope for America until the first meaningful assassination. Only galvanized by this can a pushback begin.

Through April of this year, this is the death toll of America’s fiasco in Afghanistan: 2,448 American soldiers, 3,846 American military contractors, 66,000 Afghan soldiers and police, 1,144 allied soldiers (mostly from NATO countries), 47,245 Afghan civilians, 51,191 Taliban and other opposition fighters, 444 aid workers and 72 journalists.

The 66,000 Afghan soldiers and police who died didn’t fight for America. They had no reason to. They did, however, get suckered into believing a Potemkin Afghanistan as Elmer glued together by a jivey Uncle Sam, with its freedom, democracy, rights for women and prosperity, etc.

If they were fools, then the 2,448 American soldiers who died were even dumber, for they lost their lives in a faraway land for nothing more than the bottom line of war profiteers. Though many undoubtedly thought they were exacting revenge for 9/11, Afghanistan had nothing to do with that inside job.

In Walter Reed, how many are thinking, I lost my limbs, eyes, nose, dick and half of my brain for what?

No wonder military vet suicide rate is so high. They knew they’d been had, with many figuring out, even way before they were discharged, that they didn’t serve their beloved country but help to destroy its treasury, credibility and even soul.

After Pat Tillman realized what was going on, he got shot in the head by Uncle Sam. Not satisfied with shutting Tillman up for good, Sam milked his corpse for propaganda purposes. (Sam is expert at jerking cadavers and making them dance. JFK and Martin Luther King too.) American hero Pat Tillman was killed by the Taliban in battle, Sam claimed.

That’s the cynical and sinister fuck you’re dealing with, people, and Americans are no less dispensable than South Vietnamese or Afghans, etc.

To answer President Thieu’s questions. American statements are expedient lies, at best, and American commitments are made to be broken (and yes, even to Americans).

During the Vietnam War, Thieu constantly reminded us, “Don’t listen to what the Communist say. Look at what they do.”

To his grief and ours, Thieu discovered too late that Uncle Sam was as slick as the Commies when it came to mendacity and duplicity.

Sam can turn inside out, shed skin or flip flop with the best of them. After all, Joe Stalin was his best friend.

Linh Dinh’s latest book is Postcards from the End of America. He maintains a regularly updated photo blog.

 

After six months in Albania, it was time to move on.

Céline: “When you stay too long in the same place, things and people go to pot on you, they rot and start stinking for your special benefit.”

Actually, this did not happen to me in Albania. The longer I stayed, the more I loved the place and people, and during my last month, I even discovered an out-of-this-world seafood joint, right on my street, Mine Peza.

For just five bucks at Detari Fish, you can get octopus and mackerel drenched in olive oil, tagliatelle with shrimps or even a tub of clams plus a beer. Freshly caught, all the fish are deftly seasoned.

Saying goodbye to my landlady, I gave her a hug then tapped my heart three times, as if in penance. She chirped, “Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!” That’s her only English, besides “good morning.”

When I was sick with likely Covid in March, I really thought I had killed the cheerful old bird. After coming to my door to deliver a package, she disappeared for about a week. Hearing no sounds in the hallway each day, I felt terrible lying in bed.

Great, now I will always be remembered in this neighborhood as the Chinaman who came all the way from Wuhan to murder Mrs. Berisha! When she showed up again, I babbled my happiness, though she couldn’t understand a word of it.

A week before my departure, Emirates canceled my flight, so I had to book another with KLM. Instead of one layover, now I had two, and my ticket even cost $200 more! Such is traveling during Covid.

Granted, my destination wasn’t exactly hot, or it’s hot in all the wrong ways. I imagined many folks were trying to get out, even for good.

The day before my flight, I went for my Covid test at 7AM, to get the result by 1PM. If it came back falsely positive, I could dash to another lab, I reasoned. I also had to make sure the entry rules at my destination hadn’t changed, and there was no new lockdown.

Since Covid started, I had been in South Korea, Serbia, North Macedonia, Lebanon, Egypt, Albania and Montenegro. In all these countries, life was practically normal, with restaurants and cafes all open, and public buses or trains packed.

Only in Lebanon was I subjected to a lockdown, lasting two weeks, but it was so loosely enforced, it barely bothered me. (The Lebanese government has not been in control of much for a while.) During this “lockdown,” I traveled to several villages, and had pizza then coffee at two places around Tyre.

Much of East Asia is experiencing new Covid restrictions, as triggered by the “Delta variant.” In Vietnam, the surge in Covid deaths coincided with the introduction of foreign vaccines, starting this July. Saigon is in the midst of a five-week lockdown.

Two weeks ago, a Saigon friend emailed me a video of Cho Ray Hospital, with Covid patients lying immobile, and there’s even a corpse covered by a reed mat, with just his bony brown feet sticking out.

I’m familiar with that stiff posture (of the still living). Sick, I had to think for maybe an hour before daring to shift positions, and even worse, I could never really sleep. My extreme discomfort was constant for a month, with a two week span truly hellish.

In the video, a male voice narrates, “Oh God, I can’t even find a doctor at this hospital since this morning. They’re all hiding. There’s a dead body lying here since this morning, with no one to remove him to be cremated or be buried.

“Give the old man some oxygen! He’s about to die and there’s no doctor around. He probably won’t make it. All the doctors are hiding somewhere. The doctors don’t even dare to be here. There’s a corpse lying here since this morning. No burial, for real. There’s not a shadow of any medical personnel or doctor. Oh God, there’s an old man who’s about to die and there’s no doctor to save him.”

I was also emailed photos of a completely dead Saigon, including Trung Sisters Street in downtown at 6:34PM on July 26th.

Normally, there’s always some traffic on every Saigon street, even at 3AM, and a Saigon day starts at 5AM. In the middle of the night, farm produce is brought to wet markets all over the city, and there’s always a cafe that’s open wherever you are.

In Tirana, I was downing beer and seafood at Detari Fish, among laughing diners, with no social distancing whatsoever. Almost no Albanians wear masks anymore.

Just hours before my flight, I went to my neighborhood café, Lami’s, for the last time. Hearing, again, some rather schlocky Italian pop actually teared me up. Deep down, I’m just a total pussy. Adriano Celentano, “Io non so parlar d’amore / L’emozione non ha voce / E mi manca un po’ il respiro / Se ci sei c’è troppa luce.”

Just before taking the bus to the airport, I had my last Tirana meal at Chinese Garden, mostly to say goodbye to the Albanian waiter.

Like the two young ladies at Lami’s, he worked each day, and hadn’t had a day off in over four months. In fact, he had told me he worked 16 hours a day.

“No way, man! So when do you sleep?!”

“I barely sleep.”

“When do you see your girlfriend?”

“What girlfriend?! I don’t even have friends.”

But it’s OK, he said, for he was saving to buy an old car. “In Albania, they don’t appreciate these classic cars, but I want one. I’ll get one in five years.”

As a child, he had spent a decade in Greece, but he’s happy to be home, “Too many Albanians become criminals overseas, or they have dirty jobs. Yes, I’m a waiter, but my job is clean.”

Chinese Garden has a Chinese cook. In Tirana for five years, he’d work every day for 11 months, then fly home to see his wife and kids for a month. With Covid, airfares have jacked up and there’s a two-week quarantine, so he hasn’t been home in two years. Once, I heard him screaming for about half a minute in the kitchen. It must be terrible, his stress and loneliness.

As I walked out of the restaurant with my luggage, the waiter said, “Good luck, sir.”

“Maybe they’ll kill me,” I joked.

My first stop was Rome. With more than nine hours at Fiumicino, I lay on the floor in an empty section of Terminal 3, to await my 6:10AM flight. Slipping briefly into sleep, I heard footsteps all around me, but there was no one.

 
• Category: Culture/Society • Tags: Albania, Black Crime, Covid, South Africa 
Linh Dinh
About Linh Dinh

Born in Vietnam in 1963, Linh Dinh came to the US in 1975, and has also lived in Italy and England. He is the author of two books of stories, Fake House (2000) and Blood and Soap (2004), five of poems, All Around What Empties Out (2003), American Tatts (2005), Borderless Bodies (2006), Jam Alerts (2007) and Some Kind of Cheese Orgy (2009), and a novel, Love Like Hate (2010). He has been anthologized in Best American Poetry 2000, 2004, 2007, Great American Prose Poems from Poe to the Present, Postmodern American Poetry: a Norton Anthology (vol. 2) and Hopeless: Barack Obama and the Politics of Illusion, among other places. He is also editor of Night, Again: Contemporary Fiction from Vietnam (1996) and The Deluge: New Vietnamese Poetry (2013), and translator of Night, Fish and Charlie Parker, the poetry of Phan Nhien Hao (2006). Blood and Soap was chosen by Village Voice as one of the best books of 2004. His writing has been translated into Italian, Spanish, French, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Japanese, Korean, Arabic, Icelandic and Finnish, and he has been invited to read in London, Cambridge, Brighton, Paris, Berlin, Reykjavik, Toronto and all over the US, and has also published widely in Vietnamese.