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WO2015090856A1 - Produit de traitement des cheveux contenant une combinaison spéciale d'agents de conditionnement qui contient de l'ester d'acide lipoïque - Google Patents

Produit de traitement des cheveux contenant une combinaison spéciale d'agents de conditionnement qui contient de l'ester d'acide lipoïque Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015090856A1
WO2015090856A1 PCT/EP2014/075481 EP2014075481W WO2015090856A1 WO 2015090856 A1 WO2015090856 A1 WO 2015090856A1 EP 2014075481 W EP2014075481 W EP 2014075481W WO 2015090856 A1 WO2015090856 A1 WO 2015090856A1
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Prior art keywords
hydrolysates
oil
weight
acid
polyquaternium
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Volker Scheunemann
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof

Definitions

  • the present application relates to hair treatment compositions comprising at least one alkyl or aryl ester of alpha-lipoic acid and at least one protein hydrolyzate selected from silk hydrolysates, vegetable protein hydrolysates, elastin hydrolysates, collagen hydrolysates, milk protein hydrolysates, conchiolin hydrolysates and egg protein hydrolyzates, and the use of these hair treatment agents.
  • DE 4000397 A1 discloses selected esters of alpha-lipoic acid and their use as antioxidants for lipid-containing compositions.
  • the use of these combinations leads to surprisingly good properties of the treated keratinic fibers, in particular to a significantly improved wet and / or dry combability, significantly improved gloss and increased durability of the care performance and gloss over several hair washes away.
  • the increased care benefits include improved combability, improved hair structure, improved elasticity as well as a significantly increased wash resistance of dyed hair, as well as a longer retention time. at the same time better reshaping performance in Wellvorticiann, such as water wave and perm, or the smoothing of frizzy hair.
  • composition of the invention in addition to the classic cream formulations, is also suitable for spray application both as a non-aerosol and as an aerosol. In this case, an extremely uniform spray pattern is achieved compared to the usual products. As a result, the entire composition is distributed very evenly on the hair.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinic fibers, in particular containing, containing human hair
  • M is a radical selected from at least one linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 30 hydrocarbon radical and / or a phenyl optionally substituted by C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups and / or hydroxy groups - or benzyl radical and mixtures thereof, and further
  • At least one protein hydrolyzate selected from silk hydrolysates, vegetable protein hydrolysates, elastin hydrolysates, collagen hydrolysates, milk protein hydrolysates, concholino hydrolysates, egg protein hydrolysates, and mixtures of these hydrolysates.
  • Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair conditioners, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.
  • combability is understood both the combability of the wet fiber and the combability of the dry fiber.
  • the combing used the combing work or the force used during the combing process of a fiber collective.
  • the measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.
  • the tactility of a fiber collective is defined as the handle, whereby the person skilled in the art sensibly Feel and evaluate the "fullness” and “suppleness” of the fiber collective.
  • Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.
  • Suitable cosmetic vehicles according to the invention are in particular O / W emulsions, W / O emulsions and W / O / W emulsions in the form of creams or gels or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair.
  • the cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers comprise aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 6 -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-butyl Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol to understand.
  • a C 1 -C 6 -alcohol in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol
  • isopropanol butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-butyl Pentanol
  • iso-pentanols
  • compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ester of the alpha-lipoic acid according to formula (I)
  • M is a radical which is selected from at least one linear saturated or unsaturated or a branched saturated or unsaturated or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 30 hydrocarbon radical and / or an optionally with C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups and / or hydroxyl groups substituted phenyl or benzyl radical and mixtures thereof.
  • the radical M in the formula I is preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, 2-hexyldecyl, n-heptadecyl, n- Octadecyl, 12-hydroxy-n-octadecyl, oleyl, linolyl, linolenyl,
  • alpha-lipoic acid esters according to formula (I) are selected from alpha-lipoic acid n-hexadecyl ester, alpha-lipoic acid n-octadecyl ester and alpha-lipoic acid n-eicosanyl ester and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one compound of the formula I is present in preferred compositions according to the invention. Settling in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 1, 0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition, contain.
  • the second essential ingredient b) in the active ingredient combination according to the invention is a protein hydrolyzate which is selected from silk hydrolysates, vegetable protein hydrolysates, elastin hydrolysates, collagen hydrolysates, milk protein hydrolysates, conchiolin hydrolyzates, egg protein hydrolyzates and mixtures of these hydrolysates.
  • the at least one protein hydrolyzate may be in the form of salts.
  • Vegetable protein hydrolysates preferred according to the invention are selected from soybean, almond, pea, rice, tomato, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates as well as mixtures thereof.
  • Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one protein hydrolyzate selected from silk hydrolyzates, vegetable protein hydrolysates, elastin hydrolysates, collagen hydrolysates, milk protein hydrolysates, conchiolin hydrolyzates, egg protein hydrolyzates and mixtures of these hydrolysates, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight. %, preferably 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 1, 0 wt .-%, most preferably 0.05 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition is.
  • Cosmetic compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alpha-lipoic acid ester selected from alpha-lipoic acid n-hexadecyl ester, alpha-lipoic acid n-octadecyl ester and alpha-lipoic acid n-eicosanyl ester and at least one protein hydrolyzate are selected from soy protein, almond protein, wheat protein, collagen, silk protein hydrolysates, milk protein and conchiolin hydrolysates and mixtures of these hydrolysates.
  • the effect is further enhanced by the presence of a selected compound having a quaternary ammonium group.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds.
  • the following groups have proven to be particularly suitable from this multitude of possible quaternary ammonium compounds and are, taken alone in each case, in an amount of from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, based on the weight of the invention or according to the invention preferred composition. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.
  • Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form the first group.
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
  • radical (--X - R4) with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:
  • the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least once to three times.
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
  • hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
  • Examples are: -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,
  • R6-0-CO- wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be oxalkylated, or
  • R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be oxalkylated, and A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
  • the anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate , Fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, dehydrogenation quart ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE 18, Rewoquat WE38 ® DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these ester quats.
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
  • Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
  • the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • A is an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is most preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas: R1 - NH - (CH 2) n - N + R 2 R 3 R 4 A (Tkat3)
  • R1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
  • R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
  • hydroxyalkyl group having one to four carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
  • A is an anion as previously described and
  • n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
  • amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in the formula (Tkat3) are a radical according to the general formula CH2CH2OR5, wherein R5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen may have.
  • the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat3) is an integer between 2 and 5.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the aforementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, amounts in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 , 0 wt.%, Each based on the total composition of the respective agent are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the respective agent.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.
  • the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups, such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, eg Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts.
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • R -H or -Ch
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C1-4-
  • Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and
  • Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following
  • R is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m is 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions
  • methosulfates and halide ions in particular chloride
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from synthetic polymers are, for example, copolymers of A1) from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ia)
  • A2 monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids, wherein the monomer A2 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer;
  • a most preferred polymer constructed as previously shown is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyl oxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ® CR (3V Sigma) in trade.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 in the trade.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a RbR c A "
  • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
  • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
  • R a , Rb and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , Rb and R c is preferably not more than 20;
  • a " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
  • Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.
  • Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ® polymer or polymer ® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
  • cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ®.
  • Other commercial products the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L are 200.
  • Mirustyle CP ® of the company Croda with tri- monium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before.
  • Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
  • Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company.
  • Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially.
  • Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. BASF under the name Cosmedia® ®.
  • a preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.
  • the cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®.
  • a preferred chitosan is ethoxylate Chitosoniumpyrrolidoncarb- that is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
  • Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
  • cationic polymers based on sugars can also be used according to the invention with preference.
  • Such compounds are, for example, cationic alkyl oligoglucosides as shown in the following figure.
  • the radicals R independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, Oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.
  • the radicals R 1 independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, Myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably, the radicals R1 are the same.
  • the radicals R1 are selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts of C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin.
  • cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Most preferred are the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides designated Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Poly Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.
  • the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are preferably in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in Amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
  • mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.
  • Another cationic polymer can be obtained based on ethanolamine.
  • the polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-71.
  • This polymer can be obtained, for example, under the name Cola® Moist 300 P from Colonial Chemical Inc.
  • the polyquaternium-71 is used in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, Preferably from From 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
  • Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
  • vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI - name Polyquaternium-1 1,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl caprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as acid amides are offered as the third monomer commercially, for example under the name Aqua Flex ® SF 40 with Acrylklareestern and acrylic.
  • Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:
  • R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A () is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
  • R 6 and R 7 independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C 4) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and A "is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
  • R 8 -CH CR 9 -COOH (mono 3)
  • R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • acrylic acid is preferably used as the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned.
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally contain one monomer (mono 4).
  • R 0 and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 2 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 8) -alkyl group.
  • Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • the abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention or preferred according to the invention.
  • the very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt .-% each based on the total composition of the respective agent.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones.
  • silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones.
  • arylated silicones of the respective groups of silicones are not included in the compositions of the invention.
  • the dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • the dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0, 1 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, From 2 to 5% by weight of amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone.
  • the cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention.
  • ester oil Another nourishing ingredient which may be used with particular preference is an ester oil.
  • Ester oils are preferred over the silicone oils in the preferred compositions of this invention.
  • the ester oils are defined as follows:
  • Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of Ce - C30 fatty acids with C2 - C30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caprol alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaiddyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, Elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
  • Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate Rosanit ® IPP
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myrist IPM Rilanit ®
  • ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.
  • the alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils.
  • R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide
  • X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
  • R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid , Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol moieties as radical R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol , Elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • a particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.
  • ester oils are to be understood as meaning:
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di ( 2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, and
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides used.
  • the ester oils are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Used.
  • oils examples include argan oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, cape pine oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils such as coco caprylate,
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • natural oils for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.
  • natural oils for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit
  • Amaranth seed oil apricot kernel oil, argan oil, marula oil, macadamia oil, almond oil, in particular sweet almond oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, orange oil, cape pine oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, isopropyl myristate, dicaprolyl carbonate and / or coco-caprylates and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred from the abovementioned ester oils ,
  • ester oils are most preferred in the preferred compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, each based on the weight of the composition.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention also contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, further constituents customary in cosmetic compositions.
  • the selection of these ingredients generally depends on the intended use of the hair treatment agents. In the case of a shampoo, for example, more be contained surface-active substances. In the case of hair treatments, further cationic compounds and other care substances may be present.
  • the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle.
  • surfactants depends on the nature of the agent.
  • Surfactants in the sense of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety.
  • the hydrophobic moiety is preferably a hydrocarbon chain of 8-28 carbon atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Most preferably, this C8-C28 alkyl chain is linear.
  • Basic properties of the surfactants and emulsifiers are the oriented absorption at interfaces and the aggregation to micelles and the formation of lyotropic phases.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:
  • Ethercarbon Acid the formula R-0- (CH2-CH20) x-CH2-COOH, where R is a linear
  • Alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16 and their salts,
  • Sulfobernsteinklamono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • R 1 is a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is a linear one or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms
  • R 4 is hydrogen or a methyl radical
  • M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, wherein the alkyl and alkanol radicals each having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n is a number in the range of 0 to 12 and further the total number of those contained in R and R 3 C atoms is 2 to 44,
  • RCO (AlkO) n SO 3 M sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) n SO 3 M in which RCO-- is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 - 22 C atoms, Alk is CH 2 CH 2, CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3, n is a number of 0.5-5 and M is a metal, such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -hydrocarbon radical, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula
  • R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10
  • X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
  • monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • Amide ether carboxylic acids R-CO-NR 2 -CH 2 CH 2 -O- (CH 2 CH 2 O) 2 COOM, with R being a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain from 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20 and R 2 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl and M is hydrogen is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another Hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical.
  • Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the trade name Akypo ®.
  • Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8 - C30 fatty acid are available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® commercially.
  • the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Furthermore, in the case of mild anionic surfactants with polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether groups without limited homolog distribution can also be obtained, for example if, on the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are chosen as the counterion. One example is the commercial product Texapon.RTM ® ASV.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts.
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimino-dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, Alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18-acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants are for example
  • Ci2-C3o fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
  • R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is a number from 1 to 20 .
  • R 0 [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 0] x (CH 2 CHR 2 0) y [CH 2 CH (OH) R 3 ] z with R standing for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl radical
  • R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms
  • x is 0 or one Number from 1 to 20, Y stands for a number from 1 to 30 and z stands for the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.
  • Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers,
  • Cationic surfactants of formula (Tkatl) may additionally be used.
  • R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R1, R2, R3 or R4 is different from hydrogen.
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.
  • Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.
  • the surfactants (T) are present in amounts of from 0.05 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),
  • Phospholipids lecithins, phopshatidylcholines
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient.
  • Fat substances (fat) are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which may be both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875
  • isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95
  • all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (BASF) fatty acids include caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0, 1-15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
  • the amount is preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, with amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • fatty alcohols fatal
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax), solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of polyethylene or polypropylene can be used according to the invention.
  • the amount used is preferably 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight and more preferably 0.1-1.5% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the inventively preferred means is usually 0.5 to 75 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, are preferred according to the invention.
  • Another subject of the invention is a method for hair treatment, in which a hair treatment composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and optionally rinsed by the hair after an exposure time.
  • the exposure time is preferably 5 seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 45 minutes, and most preferably 2 to 30 minutes.
  • a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there.
  • “remaining on the hair” means that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after it has been used, but in this case the agent remains on the hair for more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash.
  • Another object of the present application is the use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, for improving the wet and / or dry combability and / or the softness and / or gloss of keratinic fibers, in particular of human hair.
  • a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for improving the wet and / or dry combability and / or the softness and / or gloss of keratinic fibers, in particular of human hair.
  • alpha-lipoic acid hexadecyl ester 0, 1
  • Cetrimonium chloride 0.8 pH adjustment with citric acid, tartaric acid up to pH 2.0 to 4.8 and their salts and optionally NaOH or KOH)
  • Rinse-off according to the invention amounts in% by weight
  • Glycol distearate 1 alpha alpha-lipoate 2.5 Wheat protein hydrolyzate 0, 1
  • Cosmedia CTH (POLYQUATERNIUM-37 (50% by weight), PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.4
  • compositions have a viscosity in the range of 300 to 40,000 mPas measured with a rotational viscometer at 25 ° C. All compositions can be filled in a conventional bulk bottle.
  • the spray conditioner formulation may be packaged in a corresponding pumping package provided with a conventional metering pump.
  • the dosing pump can of course contain a sieve, so that the compositions are applied as foam via the admixture of air in the pump head.
  • the filling in aerosol cans together with conventional propellants such as iso-propane, propane, isobutane, butane, tert-butane, pentane, iso-pentane, ter-pentane, neopentane or dimethyl ether and their arbitrary mixtures in proportion of 90:10, preferably 92: 8 (blowing agent) possible.
  • propellants such as iso-propane, propane, isobutane, butane, tert-butane, pentane, iso-pentane, ter-pentane, neopentane or dimethyl ether and their arbitrary mixtures in proportion of 90:10, preferably 92: 8 (blowing agent) possible.
  • a creamy and stable foam is obtained, which can be very well distributed in the hair.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit de traitement des cheveux contenant au moins un ester d'alkyle ou d'aryle de l'acide alpha-lipoïque et au moins un hydrolysat protéique sélectionné parmi les hydrolysats de soie, les hydrolysats de protéines végétales, les hydrolysats d'élastine, les hydrolysats de collagène, les hydrolysats de protéines de lait, les hydrolysats de conchyoline, et les hydrolysats de protéines d'œuf. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation dudit produit pour le traitement des cheveux.
PCT/EP2014/075481 2013-12-18 2014-11-25 Produit de traitement des cheveux contenant une combinaison spéciale d'agents de conditionnement qui contient de l'ester d'acide lipoïque Ceased WO2015090856A1 (fr)

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JPH02145507A (ja) * 1988-11-28 1990-06-05 Shiseido Co Ltd ふけ防止用化粧料
DE4419783A1 (de) * 1994-06-06 1995-12-07 Asta Medica Ag Haarkur-Pflege-Shampoo
EP0972454A2 (fr) * 1998-07-16 2000-01-19 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Utilisation de composés organiques contenant du soufre comme agents pour déplacer bathochromiquement les bandes d'absorption dans l'uv et le visible des caroténoides
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