US700801A - Undergarment. - Google Patents

Description

No. 700,80l. Patented May 27, |902. E. NIEDERAUER.

UNDEBGARMENT.

Appl'xeation Bled Mar. 24, 1902.) ("0 ml- 2 sheets-sheet 2.

AMm/L, Mah/wam Y Inventor a w. w w s' 6W W Attorney UNITED STATES PATENT EEICE.

EDWARD NIEDERAUER, OF HAMILTON, GHIO.

UNDERGARM ENT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 700,801, dated May 27', 1902.

Application filed March 24, 1902. Serial No. 99,586. (No model.)

To all whom, t ncty concern:

Be it known that I, EDWARD NIEDEEAUER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Hamilton, Butler county, Ohio, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Undergarments, of which the following is a specification.

This inventiompertainin gto improvements in undergarments, will be readily understood from the following description, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 indicates the right sleeve in primary condition; Fig. 2, the similar left sleeve; Fig. 3, a rear view of the right sleeve as cut preliminary to the formation of the yoke; Fig. 4, a similar View of the left sleeve in similar condition; Fig. 5, a front view of the yoke as formed by the sleeves; Fig. 6, a rear View of the same; Fig. 7, a front View of the body ready for the attachment of the yoke; Fig. 8, a rear view of the same,show ing the rear placket of the drawers ;'Fig. 9,a front view of the complete union garment; Fig. 10, a rear View of the same; Fig. 11, a horizontal section through the drawers at the rear placket; Fig. 12, a rear elevation of the under rear placket-flap, and Fig. 13 a rear view of one of the yoke-gussets.

ln the drawings, and giving attention to the Various views only in the order in which attention is called to them, 1, Fig. 1, indicates the sleeves, being merely knit cylinders with cuffs, the inner ends of which are to be cut and seamed to form the yoke, as shown in Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6; 2, rear neck-'liaps formed by cutting from the inner ends of the sleeves, leaving these iiaps as narrow inward projections from the neck-lines; 3, breast-diagonals formed by diagonally cutting the front inner ends of the sleeves and by splitting them inwardly a short distance at the rear, so as to give greater width to the front inner vends of the sleeves at the breast, Figs. 5 and 6 showing the inner extremities of neck flapsV 2 seamed together, thus completing the yoke, these figures also showing the yoke trimmed and completed and provided with buttonholes in breast-diagonals 3, which diagonals are to form breast-closing flaps; 4, lips extending downwardly from the bases of breastdiagonals 3 below the adjoining sleeve portions; 5, the triangular openings formed in the rear of the sleeves by the splitting previously referred to, done for the purpose of getting farther downward projection to-the breast-diagonals; 6, hems at the breast-diagonals and formed by turning inwardly and securing the edges of the diagonals 3, the' breast buttonholes being worked through these hems; 7, Figs. 7 and 8, the body of the garment to which the yoke is to be attached; 8, the back of the body, the same being square at the top, its upper margin being attached to tit below and be seamed to the neckiiaps 2; 9, the front of the body; 10, upwardlyconverging diagonals at the sides of the bodyfront 9, these diagonals being adapted to underlie breast-diagonals 3 and being provided with buttons to be engaged by the buttonholes of the yoke; 11, the neck-margin of the front of the body; 12, draw-strings interlaced in the neck-margin of the body and having ends fast at the outer extremities of the neckmargin, these draw-stringsky rendering it possible to lessen the length of the neck-margin of the body-front; 13, Figs. 7 to 12, inclusive, the general hip portion of the drawers, provided with the usual frontplacket and with a peculiar rear-placket; 14, the inner flap of the rear placket, the same being seamed at its top and bottom and one side to the main garment, its inner edge .being free; 15, the seam by which one of the vertical edges of this placket-Hap is secured to the main garment, the peculiarities of this seam being later explained; 16, the outer flap of the rear placket, the same overlying the inner flap 14 and being seamed to the main garment at its top and bottom and one vertical edge, its other edge being free; 17, the vertical seam by which the inner edge of outer rear pocketiiap 16 is joined to the main garment; and 18, Figs. 10 and 13, gussets filling the triangular openings 5 and seamed to the yoke and the back of the body.

The yoke having been completed .and the gussets applied is seamed to the body, thus completing the upper portion of the garment. The breast-diagonals 3 of the yoke lap over and button upon the diagonals 10 of the bodyfront, the seaming of lips 4 at the base of the diagonals 10 insuring a good lapping closure free from basegaps. Where Ithe yoke is IOO formed from sleeves in the general manner indicated and the front closure is elfccted by the inward prolongation and juncture of the sleeve material, the breast is crossed horizontally by sleeve material extending endwise of that material,in which direction it is comparatively inelastic, thus producing discomfort to the wearer. By the present construction, however, the endwise-coursing sleeve material does not extend horizontally across the breast; but the breast is anged by the bodyfront 9, whose endwise course of material is vertical, leaving its elasticity in the horizontal direction across the breast. The consequence is that'the endwise pull of the sleeve material in its non-elastic direction lnds full compensation in the horizontal pull upon the body-front in its most elastic direction.

Garments of this general character can seldom-have a neck lit quite suited to the wearer, and draw-strings to vary the t are called into play. With a single closure in connection with a draw-string the draw-string needs to be untied each time the garment is opened, and consequently the neck lit requires r adjustment each time the garment is closed on the wearer. By the present construction, however, the draw-string 12, which serves in shortening the neck-margin 11 and fitting the neck of the garment to the wearer, may be adjusted once for all, the subsequent opening of the body-closures not calling for any manipulation of the draw-strings. It is to be observed that the complete garment is quite without front seams.

Turning to the rear placket, the seamed vertical edges of inner and outer flaps 14 and 16 are cut on a bold convex curve, as indicated in Fig. 12, and the adjoining edges of the main garment, where these fiaps are to be seamed to it, are cut on similar bold convex curves, as indicated in Fig. 12. These ad joining convexly-curved edges of the main garment and the flaps are seamed together, thus causing the seams 15 and 17 to form boldlyextending outward ribs formed by surplus material. When the garment is put on the wearer and the portions to the sides of the rear placket-flaps become subjected to transverse strains in adapting themselves to the wearers form, the pull comes upon these ex'- tra- full seams 15 and 17, the seams thus yielding a great deal of slack and furnishing material for the form without severe side drag upon the flaps, the flaps thus remaining in lapping condition and insuring a satisfactory rear-placket closure.

I claim as my invention- 1. In an undergarment, the combination, substantially as set forth, of a pair of sleeves having rear neck-aps connected together and formed each with a breast-diagonal,a body having a back united to the lower edge of said rear neckaps and having a front with diagonal side margins adapted to underlie the breast-diagonals of the sleeves, and triangular gussets seamed in the inner rear portions of the sleeves and to the back of the body.

2. In an undergarment, the combination, substantially as set forth, of a pair of sleeves having rear neck-flaps connected together and formed each with a breast-diagonal,abody having a back united to the lower edge of said rear neck-flaps and having a front with diagonal side margins adapted to underlie the breast-diagonals of the sleeves, and triangular gussets seamed in the inner rear portions of the sleeves and to the back of the body, said breast-diagonals having lips formed at their bases and secured to the bases of the diagonal side margins of the front of the body.

3. In an undergarment, the combination, substantially as set forth, of a pair of sleeves having rear neck-flaps connected together and formed each with a breastdiagonal,a body having a back united to the lower edge of said rear neck-flaps and having a front with diagonal side margins adapted to underlie the breast-diagonals of the sleeves, triangulary gnssets seamed in the inner rear portions of the sleeves and to the back of the body, and draw-strings secured to the upper extremities of the diagonal side margins of said bodyfront and adapted to adjust the distance between them.

4. In an undergarment, the combination, substantially as set forth, of a hip portion having a rear opening with separated vertical margins convexly curved toward each other, an inner flap having a convexly-curved margin seamed to one of said first-mentioned margins, and an outer flap having a convexlycurved margin seamed to the other one of said first-mentioned margins.

EDWARD NIEDERAUER. Witnesses:

E. R. SHIPLEY, M. S. BELDEN.

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