US1681189A - Device used in the making of garment collars - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 21, 1928.

N. J. MANGINI DEVICE USED IN THE MAKING OF GARMENT COLLARS Filed April 13, 1926 INVENTOR a ATTORNEY-Y Patented Aug. 21, 1928.

UNITED STATES NORMAN J. MANGINI, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK.

DEVICE USED IN THE MAKING OF GARMENT GOLLARS.

Application filed April 13, 1926. Serial No. 101,789.

The present invention relates to a device used in the making of garment collars and an object thereof is to provide a construction which will turn the top or front collar over the canvas or lining and lay the collar cloth or back collar in proper relation to the turned edge. I

To these and other ends, the invention consists of certain parts and combinations of parts, all of which will be hereinafter described: the novel features being pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a device constructed in accordance with this invention, designed for attachment to a sewing machine;

Fig. 2 is a view of one side of the device illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged view similar to Fig. 2, showing the manner in which the goods pass through the device;

Fig. 4 is a section on the line 44, Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged view of the intake end of the device; and

Fig. 6 is a sectional view through the collar.

An ordinary coat or garment collar employs what is termed a top or front collar 1, a collar cloth or back collar 2, and a canvas or lining 3. The top collar is turned over the lining 3 as at 4 to overlap the edge of the lining and the collar cloth extends over this turned portion, as illustrated in Fig. 6 of the drawing. A stitching 5 passes through the collar cloth, the turned edge 4, the lining 3 and the main body of the top collar 1. i

For assembling these parts of the collar the present invention is designed. 'In this instance, the invention is in the form of an attachment for a sewing machine, this attachment embodying an attaching portion 6 which is adapted to be secured to the bed of the machine, preferably adjustable through a set screw passing into the bed through a slot 7 in the attaching portion. The inner end of the attaching portion 6 has a supporting portion 8 preferably formed in one piece therewith and bent into inverted U shaped form, the outer wall of which acts as a supporting means for devices to be described.

In this instance, extending horizontally from the lower edge of the outer wall of the support 8, there is provided a base member 9, although it will be apparent that this is plate or portion 15.

not absolutely necessary as the goods might travel directly on the bed of the machine. Also projecting from the support, and in this instance formed in one piece with the base member 9, is an edge turning device comprising an upper edge turning portion 10 extending upwardly and outwardly from the support '8 on a curve, thence arched outwardly and downwardly as at 11, to a bend 12 from which projects a lower horizontally and inwardly extending separating plate or portion 13, the latter being substantially parallel with the base 9, but in spaced relation to the latter. This folding device gradually inclines downwardly toward the base from its receiving end and leads to a presser portion 14 which extends outwardly from the support 8 and inclines slightly'downwardly in an outward and also a forward direction. The top collar 1 with the lining 3 thereon spaced a desired amountfrom the edge of the top collar is passed beneath the portion 13, while the projecting edge of the top collar is passedbetween the inner edge of said portion 13 and support 8 to extend upwardly into the turning device so as to cooperate with the walls 10 and 11. This turning device gradually turns the edge 4 of the top collar over the lining until the turned edge passes off the portion 13. When the turned portion 4 of the top collar passes off the discharge end of the separating plate or portion 13, the turned portion 4 will lie directly above the lining or canvas 3 and overlap the latter. At this time, the portion 4, the canvas 3 and top collar pass beneath the presser lip 14 which is so inclined that it presses the turned portion 4 infirm engagement with the lining 3 and the top collar 1.

The collar cloth is now laid upon the turned edge. This is effected through an outwardly opening channel formed by the upper surface of the presser portion 14 and the lower surface of an inclined presser This not only extends above the presser plate or portion 14, but also projects beyond the presser plate or portion 14, so that, as the collar cloth 2 passes over the discharge edge of the presser plate 14, it comes into contact with the turned edge 4 and is thereafter held in such contact by that portion of the plate 15 projecting beyond the plate 14 and forms beyond the plate a channel opening outwardly through which the top collar 1, the canvas or lining 3, the turned edge 4 and the collar cloth or back collar 2 pass. After these parts issue from the discharge end of this channel, they are subjected to the action of a stitching mechanism of which only the needle 16 is shown, this needle operating in close proximity to the discharge end of the device.

It will thus be seen that at the forward end of the device. two channels are provided, one below the plate or portion 13 through which the top collar and canvas passes, another above said plate communicating with the first mentioned channel and through which the edge of the top collar travels to he laid upon the canvas. These two channels communicate with a common channel in which pressure is applied to the turned edge 4, the canvas 3 and the top collar 1. Above this last mentioned channel or above the presser plate 14, which serves the top of this last mentioned channel is a feeding channel for the collar cloth 2. This feeding channel and the presser channel both communicate with another presser channel formed by that portion of the plate 15 which projects beyond the presser plates 14 and in which channel the collar cloth, the turned edge of the top collar, the canvas and the top collar itself are subjected to pressure before being discharged to the stitching mechanism.

\Vhat I claim as my invent-ion and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A device of the class described comprising means providing two channels at the intake end of the device, one above the other, said channels communicating at one side and the walls of one of the channels being arranged to turn an edge of a top collar travelling in the lower channel and having its edge extending into the upper channel the lower channel opening throughout its length laterally at the side opposite that which communicates with the upper channel, means providing a pressure channel beyond said two channels with its bottom in a horizontal plane with the bottom of the lower channel through which the turned edge, a lining and the top collar pass after issuing from the first two mentioned channels said pressure channel opening laterally throughout its length on the side on which the lower channels open, means providing above said pressure channel an additional channel through which a collar cloth may pass said additional channel opening laterally throughout its length on the same side as the lower channel, and means providing beyond said pressure channel and said last mentioned channel, a pressure channel through which the top cloth lining, the turned edge and the collar cloth may pass before issuing from the device said last mentioned. pressure channel opening laterally throughout its length on the same side as the lower channel with its bottom in a horizontal plane with the bottom of a lower channel.

2. A device for making garment collars comprising a support, an upper and a lower blade, one above the other. the upper blade projecting outwardly from the support and the lower projecting inwardly from the outer end of said upper blade below the latter to provide two channels. one above the other, the lower one of said channels receiving the top collar and the lining and the upper one of said channels receiving and turning the edge of the top collar, a presser projecting outwardly from the support and engaging the work after the latter has passed beyond the rear end of the lower blade to exert. pressure on the material passing above and below the lower blade, and a second pressure plate projecting outwardly from the support above the first presser to provide a channel between the two pressers for the collar cloth. the last mentioned Presser engaging the top collar beyond and in spaced relation to the rear end of the first mentioned prcsser and providing the top wall of a pressure channel through which the top collar cloth, the turned edge, the lining and the collar cloth pass and are subjected to pressure before passing to a stitching mechanism.

NORMAN J. MANGINI.

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