US1875578A - Pants band sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

P 5, 1932- w. A. FEIGEL ET AL. 1,875,578

PANTS BAND SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet l Q N s N f x R" W gwwmtocs P 5, 1932-- w. A. FEIGEL ET AL 7 7 PANTS BAND SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 P 6,1932; w. A. FEIGEL ET AL 1,875,578

' PANTS BAND SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet s WM f1. 6 v SWMTW Sept. 6, 1932.

W. A. FEIGEL ET AL PANTS BAND SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 gwntozs Sept. 6, 1932. w. A. FEHGEL ET AL PANTS BAND SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 gmntozs I l l I I i !i I I l llllnr In .N n u j: .f n d s Q 3 r (Al r k IIIIJ dxd. r r

F r Q. C n \l/w (Y x Patented Sept. 6, 1932 PATENT: OFFICE 1 UNITED sTjATEs WILLIAM A. rnrennfor' BOSTON, AND ROBERT n. CARVER, or CAMBRIDGE, massacnnsnr'rs, ASSIGNORS '10 UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, or CHICAGO,

ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS rAN'rs BAND SEWING MACHINE The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines and more particularly to a sewin 'machine for joining a formed pant ban to the body portion 5 of trousers. An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type with means for guiding a body fabric and-means for guiding a prefolded stitched pant band so that the folded edge of the lining of the pant band will be laid on top of the body fabric while the stiffening strip of the pant band is laid underneath the body fabric whereby a zigza stitching mechanism may be utilized for orming stitches alternately passin through the folded edge of the lining an over the edge thereof, and also through the stifi'ening strip and body fabric for joining the parts.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type with a guiding means for the formed pant band which has complete control of the lining stripuso as to direct the same smoothly to the mac 'ne.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above t pe wherein the guide for the formed pant and is also provlded with'means for folding the edge ofv the lining stri A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type with a uide for the formed pant band having an ad justable member for varying the widt of the guiding channel.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings machine embodying the improvements. Fig. 2 is-an end view of the same.

-. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the work support,

plilessure foot and guides used in the mac me.

of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the formed pant band and body fabricshowing the manner of guiding the same to the stitching Fig. 1 is a front view of a portion of the Fig. 4 is a sectional View on the line 4-4 Application filed October, 24, 1928. Serial No. 314,700.

mechanism, the placing of the parts, and the stitching thereo Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the article as com leted on the machine.

Fig. is a sectionalview showing the parts folded in the manner in which they are used in the completed garment.

Fig. 8. is a view of a portion of the work support, the presser. foot, and the guides showing a modified form of guiding device for the formed pant band.

Fig. 9 is a sectional view through the uide for the formed pant bandtaken longitudinally thereof on the line 9*9. a n

Fig. 10 is a plan view'of the formed pant band and the body fabric showin the-manner of interfoldingthe same by t e guiding mechanism shown in Figs. 8 and 9.

The invention is directed to a sewing machine for joining a formed pant band to the body portions 0 trousers by a single line of .zigzag stitches so that the pant band may be secured to the garment by a single operation.

edge is folded so that the fold therein lies so 'alon the edge portion of the stiffening strip 7 but ack from the edge thereof. It is de sired to stitch this formed ant band to the body portion of trousers so t at the body portion will lie between the lining strip and the stifl'ening strip and be so positioned therebetween that a line of zigzag stitches may be passed alternately into the lining stri adacent the ed e thereof andover the e ge of the lining strip. These zigzag stitches pass throu h the body fabric and are completel embe ded therein and also throu h the sti fening strip back from the ed e t ereof and are completely embedded therem. This roduces a joinin of the formed pant ban to the body portion of the trousers by stitching which closely resembles a hand whip stitch, which joins an'edge portion to a fabric and partlycovers and ornaments theedge of the strip. V v I 100 The machine for carrying out the invention includes a zigzag stitching mechanism of the usual type. There is a guide for the body fabric which guides said bod fabric so that the needle will penerate t e body fabric at each stitch. This guide for the body fabric is shaped so as to provide a guiding space beneath the same'for the stiffening strip of the pant band. Associated with this guiding member for the body fabric is a guiding member for the formed pant band. This guiding member in one form of the invention is provided with a channelwhich receives the facing strip with the edge thereof folded. The guiding member extends the full width of the facing strip to the fold therein so that the facing strip is controlled and smoothly directed to the stitching mechanism. At the outer edgeof the guide for the pant band there is an opening on the under face thereof and also a guiding wall which directs the stiffening strip entirely beneath the guiding member for the facing strip, although these parts are stitched together at the extreme outer edge thereof. This stiffening strip can thus be led underneath the guiding member for the body fabric. The guide is so positioned relative to the stitching mechanism that the zigzag stitches will pass alternately into and out of the edge of the facing strip and through the body fabric and stiffening strip at each stitch.

In another form of the invention the guide for the facing strip is provided with means for infolding the edge of the facing strip and also with meanswhich is adjustable for varying the capacity of the guide for different widths of pant bands.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, the invention is shown as applied to a sewing machine having a work support 1 and an overhanging arm 2 on which is mounted a needle gate 3. A needle bar 4 is mounted for reciprocation in the needle gate and is actuated by means of a needle lever 5 connected to the needle bar by a link 6. The needle bar is provided with a 'needle 7 Cooperating with this needle beneath the work support is the usual form of complemental stitch forming mechanism. The needle'gate is vibrated by means of a link 8 connected to a rock shaft 9 in the usual manner. The material is held on the work support by a presser foot .10 which is likewise of the usual construction.

Mounted on'the work support 1 is a guiding member 11 for the body fabric. This guiding member is secured to the work support by means of a screw 12. The right hand portion of this guiding member, as viewed in Fig. 1, is raised so as to provide a space 13. The extreme right hand edge portion of the guiding member at the receiving side thereof is bent upwardly at right angles to form a Fig. 1. Between these plates is a channel 18' through which the facing strip F of the pant band is directed. The plate 15 is bent downwardly at'19. This downwardly bent portion is spaced from the right hand edge of the plate 16 so that the channel 18 extends around the edge of the plate 16 and beneath said plate. The downwardly bent portion 19 is extended as indicated at 19a. underneath and downwardly relative to the plate 16. The stiffening strip is indicated at S in the drawings. The stiffening strip and the facing strip are joined by a line of stitching s. This is done before the pant band is brought to the machine for stitching it to the body fabric. After these parts are joined, then the facing strip is folded around onto the opposite face of the stiffening strip and this forms the pant band which is to be attached tothe body fabric of the trousers.

As shown in Figs. 1 to 5 the facing strip F has its edge portion folded underneath as indicated at f. This fold is formed in the facing strip prior to the insertion of the strip in the guide so that the strip with the folded edgeportion passes through the channel 18. Y The stiffening strip S passes underneath the plate 16 and also underneath the guide plate 11. The space 13 is provided to receive the edge portion of the stiffening strip and this allows the stiffening strip to run freely underneath this guiding member for the body fabric. I I

The parts of the pant band, positioned as described, are fed through this guiding member and directed tothe stitching mechanism. As clearly shown in Fig. 5 of the drawings, the bodyfabric and the formed pant band are directed to the stitching mechanism so made through the body fabric and also through the stiffening strip. Thus it is that the pant band is secured to the body fabric with the body fabric lying between the facing strip and the stifl'ening strip.

In the completed article .the body fabric is folded over the edge portion S of the stiffening strip as shown in Fig. 7 The'distance that the stitches are located below this fold in the body fabric depends upon the position of thestitches in the stiffening strip and, therefore, it is quite essential that the stitches shall be a predetermined distance from the edge of the stiffening strip The edge of the plate 16 lying between the facing str1p and the stiffening stri at the extreme right hand edge portion oft e pant band coperating with the portion 17 joining the top plate and said guide plate 16 will guide the pant band so as to properly position the stiffening strip relative to the body fabric and the folded edge of the facing strip.

In Fi s. 8, 9, and 10, there is shown a slightly modified form of guidin means for the formed pant band. In this orm of the invention the upper plate 15 of the guide for the pant band is bent downwardly and inwardly and upwardly so as to provide a folding scroll 20 which underturns the edge portion of the facing strip. The plate 16 is secured to the underneath portion of the folding scroll 20. The plate- 15 at the right hand side of the guide for the pant band is bent downwardly and underneath the plate 16 as indicated at 21. An extension 22 is carried by this member 21. Located between the portion 21 and the portion 15 of the guiding I plates is an adjustable edge guiding portion 23 which is held in place by suitable screws 24:, 24: passing through slots 25, 25 in the plate;

- 15. The operation of this guide is similar to that described above with the additional feature that the edge of the facing strip is underfolded as it passes through the guide. The advantage of this underfolding of the edge portion of the facing strip is that the fold will be properly positioned relative to the stitching mechansm so as to insure that the edge of the fold will pass between the extreme throws of the needle as it is moved back and forth to form the zigzag stitching. By adjusting the guide'for the outer edge portion of the formed pant band, the capacity of the guide may be readily changed for different widths of ant bands. This guide is secured to the wor support by suitable screws 26, 26.

From the above it will be apparent that a machine has been provided with means for directing a bodyfabric and also a formed pant band so that they will be properly positioned and directed to a stitching mechanism whereby a line of zigzag stitches may be passed through the body fabric and stiffening strip and alternately through and over the edge of the facing strip. Thus it is that the formed pant band may be secured to the body fabric of the trousers at a single operaparts may be made without departing from v the spirit of the invention'as set forth in the appended claims. I

Having fully described our invention, what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is y 1. In a sewing machine a stitch forming mechanism for forming zigzag stitches, a guide for guiding a body fabric to the stitching mechanism so that the needle at each stitch enters the body fabric, a guide for guiding a formed pant band so that a folded edge portion of the facing strip is laid on top of the body fabric with the edge thereof within the limits of the zigzag stitching and so that the stiffening strip is laid beneath the body fabric, whereby the needle at each puncture passes through the stiffening strip, said guide for the pant band being provided with means for underfolding the edge of the facing strip as it is led to the stitching mechanism, said guide for the pant band having means for positionin said stiffening strip so that the stitches Wlll penetrate the same guide for guiding a body fabric to the stitching mechanism so that the needle at each stitch enters the body fabric, a guide for guiding a formed ant band so that a folded edge portion of t e facing str1p is laid on top ofthe body fabric with the edge there-' of within the limits of the zigzag stitching and so that the stiffening strip is laid beneath the body fabric, whereby the needle at each puncture passes through the stiffening strip,

said guide for the pant band being provided with means for underfolding the edge of the facing strip as it is led to the stitching mechanism, said guide forthe pant band having means for positioning said stiffening str1p so that the stitches will penetrate the same at a predetermined distance from the edge thereof, said guide for the pant band being also provided with adjustable means for varying the capacity of the guide ,for pant bands of different widths without varyin the-position of the guide relative to the wor support. I 3. In a sewing machine, a stitch forming mechanism for forming -zigzag stitches, a guide for guiding a bodyfabric to the stitching mechanism so that the needle at each stitch enters the body fabric, a uide for guiding a pants band so that a:f0 ded edge portion of the facing strip is laid on top of the body fabric with the edge thereof within the limits of the zigzag stitching and so that the stifi'ening strip is laid beneath the body fabric, whereby the needle at each puncture passes through the stiflening strip, said guide for the pants band being rovided with means for posltionin said sti ening strip so that the stitches wi 1 penetrate the same at a predetermined distance from the edge thereof.

In testimony whereof, we aflix our signatures.

- WILLIAM A. FEIGEL. ROBERT R. CARVER.

Images