US2197134A - Collar - Google Patents

Description

APY 16, 1940.- w. RUBlNsTElN 2.197.134

COLLAR Filed Jan. ze, 1939 i 2 sheets-sheet 1 w. RuBlNsTElN COLLAR Filed Jan. 2s, v1959 Patented Apr. 1,6, 1940 Wilton RubinsteimClayton, M0., assigner of onehalf to said Rubinstein, as trustee, and Edward Greensfelder, al co-trustee Application January 26, 1939, Serial No. 252,846 "i Claims. (lol. 2-131) This invention relates to collars lof the turneddown type adapted for use in connection with mens shirts and each of which includes a band and a cape.

` 5' vEvery collar embodying the invention' includes lining sections in the band and cape respectively having their upper margins separated by a. nar, row intervening space along the fold line of the collar, and a strip extending longitudinally along the fold line of the collar ybetween the exposed and infold plies having vits margins overlapping and attached to the upper margins of said lining sections in a novel relationship, and cooperating with said lining ysections and with the attaching stitches securing said strip and' said lining sections to the infold ply in a manner to prevent any of said parts from abrading or wearing the exposed ply of the collar' adjacent to the fold line. Objects of the invention are to provide a N" turned-down collar having means embodied `therein for positively deiining a fold line at the union of the band' and the cape between adjacent edges of lining sections in the band and cape of thecollar so that, when the collarkis folded, vit' 25" will necessarily fold along said line; and to pro'- vide novel means attaching the upper margins of the lining sections to eachother and to the infold ply of the collar whereby the fold line is positively maintained and the lining sections are.

{11G-positively prevented from injuring theexposed ply of the` collar, thereby providing a. collar that will last longer than collars embodying other expedients with which I am familiar.

Another object of the' invention is to provide an improved turned-down collar having exposed v and infold plies, and'. lining sections within the band and cape of the collar having their upper edges separated by a narrow longitudinal space providing the effective fold line of the collar',A in combination with a longitudinal strip extending along and across the foldA line andhaving itsmar'- gins overlapping the upper margins of said lining sections and attached to said lining sections and to the infold ply in a novel manner, prevent- 45 ing the margins of said sections 'from raveling,

maintaining the fold line indefinitely, and pre- Venting the'` upper edge of the lining sections.

jfrom injuring thev exposed ply of the collar.

Additional objects and advantages of the inlllvention will be readily apparent from the followi ing description, in which reference is made to the. annexed dra-wings,*in .which- Fig, 1 isa plan view of a collar with a part of.

the. exposed ply brokeni away, showing features jof. the present invention. I

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the infold ply of the collar, a part thereof being broken away illustrating other' features of the invention. v

Fig- 3 is an enlarged plan View of the .inner side of the infold ply having the band lining sec- 5? tion and the longitudinal strip attached thereto. Fig. 4 is a cross-sectionalview on the lined-4 of Fig. 3. s

Fig. 5 is anenlarged plan view of the inner side of the infold ply of the collar having the'band vand cape lining sections and the longitudinal strip attached thereto in invention.

Fig. y6 is a cross-sectional view on the-line G-E- I, of Fig. 5. 1""

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view on the line 'I-s-l of Fig. 1.

Fig. 8 is an enlarged cross-sectional View duplicating a portion of Fig. 7, further clarifying they arrangement of theparts. Zw

Fig. 9 is a, sectional View, very much enlarged, of a portion of the collar folded along the foldl line provided by this invention.

By this invention, a collar may be made with accordance with 'this a clearly dened and narrow fold line so that, 25

when the collar is folded, it is practically impossible for wrinkles or buckling formations to occur, Furthermore, the collaris required to fold' properly and without any noticeable Variation along the fold line provided byl this invention. 365

This invention may, in a sense, be consideredan improvement beyond the collar disclosed in my companion application Serial No. 23916245' iiled November 9, 1938.

`The collar comprises an exposed ply I andan 351 infold ply 2, both extending the full width and length of the collar andv providing a band and a cape. A band lining section 3 and a cape lining section 4 are confined between the exposed and` the infold plies of the collar and have their up 4.9.1 per edges separated by a narrow longitudinal in` tervening space 5 (Figs. 5 and 6) constitutingv the fold line of thel collar along which the col-lar folds to suspend the cape about and along the band. The margins of the exposed and inlfold 45.` plies are attached together by a line of stitches` 6 running along the margins of the cape and v. concealed when the collar is turned to its iinalv position. A longitudinal line of stitches 5a, pref,- erably as near the upper' margin of the band lin.- 5o; ing section 3 ras is possible to obtain secure attachment, is formed through said band liningr section 3 and the infold ply 2, and firmly connects the band lining section and the infold ply adja cent to the fold line 5. This operation iixes: the

upper margin of the band lining section 3 as the exact arc of the fold line of the collar and is used as a guide for the attachment of the strip 1, which has one marginal portion thereof substantially overlapping the upper marginal portion of the lining section 3 between said lining section and the exposed ply l.

A line of stitches 8 is formed through the infold ply 2, the band lining section 3, and the strip 1 as a permanent attachment of these parts; and simultaneously, if desired, a line of stitches 9 is formed along the opposite margin of the strip 'l to attach said opposite margin of the strip Il to the infold ply 2. The lines of stitches 8 and 9 are formed parallel with each other and, as indicated, are preferably formed simultaneously, although the time element of the formation of these lines of stitches may be varied as desired without departure from this invention.

As indicated, the upper edge of the band lining when the strip 'l is attached, the distance from the edge of the lining section 3 to the line of stitches 9 in the cabe portion of the collar is very accurately determined. As will presently appear, the line of stitches 9 in the cape portion of the collar serves as a guide for attaching the cape lining section 4 along the fold line. Therefore, having precisely controlled and determined the fold line width of the collar along the upper edge of the band lining section 3, the line of stitches 9 serves asa guide controlling attachment ofthe cape lining section and other opera-` tions to control precisely the fold line width.

Thereafter, the exposed and infold plies of the collar are turned to the position of the finished collar, and before the marginal line of stitches i0 is formed through the exposed ply l, the cape lining section 4, and the infold ply 2, a line of zigzag stitches Il is formed along the margin and across the upper edge of the cape lining section 4 and across the longitudinal line of stitches 9. This is an important feature of the invention because the upper margin of the cape lining section 4 extends between the strip 'I and the exposed ply of the collar, 'while the opposite margin of the strip 1 extends between the band lining section 3 and the exposed ply; and the distance between the upper edge of the band lining section 3 and the stitches l l, and including the upper edge of the cape lining section 4, defines and precisely controls the fold line width. These zigzag stitches Il which cross the edge of the cape lining section 4 also cross and enclose the longitudinal line of stitches 9 and thereby positively prevent the upper margin of the cape lining section 4 from abrading or wearing against the exposed ply of the collar. The zigzag stitches Il crossing the edge of the cape lining section 4 hold said upper edge `of the cape lining section very closely and securely against the strip l so that, when the collar is in folded position, as when worn, it is impossible for the upper edge of the cape lining section to abrade or even contact the outer ply l. This consider-V ably prolongs the life and increasesl the durability-of the collar so that the collar is not daniaged thereby when worn or processed in laundering. By this arrangement, I am also enabled to bring `the upper edges of the lining sections 3 and 4 closer together so ythat they are at the opposite sides of thefold line insteadof being spaced therefrom. This provides a definite and clearly formed fold line along which the collar must fold, and prevents the formation of wrinkles or buckles when the collar is folded, so that a pleasing appearance of the collar is assured.

A highly important factor in connection with this invention is derived from the precision with ment and procedure, I am enabled to control accurately the distance to which thestrip 1 Vextends into the cape portion and which is covered by the cape lining section 4, so that any doubling of the cape lining section and the strip where they overlap is conned to the roll or curvature when the collar is folded for use, and does not extend into the cape portion far enough to produce any noticeable shadow along the fold line margin of the cape. the strip 1 fby the cape lining section 4 within the cape ofthe collar also prevents any appearance of shadow, and enhances the appearance of the collar when worn. v

Before the collar is completed, a line of stitches l2 is formed through the exposed ply I, the strip 1, the band lining section 3 and the infold ply 2 along the margin of the strip 'l and beyond the stitches 8, so that all of these parts or plies are held in fixed relationship adjacent to the fold line, leaving the exposed ply of the collar in the cape free to adjust itself properly'when laundered or processed for use.

It should now be apparent that this invention attains every object and purpose thereof in a very highly e1`n`cient, satisfactory and economical manner; and that, by use of this invention, a collar is provided with a narrow fold line formed Moreover, covering of by means preventing abrading or wearing of the exposed ply. Thus, the life of the collar is prolonged. The lining sections may be of thermoplastic material or not, as desired. plate these and any other variations that may be required or considered useful in adapting the I contemcollar for its intended purposes, and I do not` 4 length and width of the collar and forming a band and a cape and having a fold line along which the band and cape may be turned against each other; lining sections in the band and cape respectively having their upper edges separated by a narrow longitudinal space at said fold line, a strip extending approximately the length of the collar along and across said fold line and having its margins in overlapped relationship to the upper margins of said lining sections, a lineof stitches attaching both said band liningsection and said strip to the band portion of the infold ply, another line of stitches attaching oneV margin of said strip to the capeportion ofthe infold ply, and a line of zigzag stitches crossing said second line of stitches' and the edge of the cape lining section and attaching the upper ymar- Y gin of the cape lining section to said strip and to said infold ply adjacent to said foldline. L

2. In a turned down collar having an exposed ply, and an info-ld ply, both extending the full length and width of the collar and'forming a; band and a cape and having .a foldv linev alongm j each other; lining sections in the band and cape respectively having their upper edges separated by a narrow longitudinal space at said fold line,

'a strip extending approximately the length of the collar along and across said fold line and vhaving one margin in overlapped relationship said strip to the cape portion of the infold ply,

anda line of zigzag stitches crossing said second.A

line of stitches and the edge of saidfcape lining section and attaching the upper margin of the cape lining section to said stripand to said infold ply adjacent to said fold line.

3. In a turned down collar having an exposed ply, and an infold ply', both extending the full length and width of the collar and forming a band and a cape and having a fold line along whichA the band and capemay be turned against each other; a lining section in the cape having its upper edge terminating .in the cape slightly below said fold line, a strip extending approximately the length of the collar along and across saidiold line and having one margin in overj y.lapped relationship to the upper margin of said ycape lining section, lines of stitches attaching the `margins o-f said strip to the infold ply below said fold line within the band and cape respectively, and a line of stitches crossing that first named line of stitches within the cape of the collar and vattaching the upper margin of said cape lining section to said strip and to said infold ply adjacent to said fold line.

4. In a turned down collar having an exposed ply, and an infold ply, both extending the full length and width vof'the collar and forming a band and a cape and having a fold line along which thejband and cape may be turned against each other; liningv sections in the band and cape respectively having their upper edges separated by a narrow longitudinal space at said fold line, a strip extending approximately the length of the collar along and across said fold line and having its upper margins in overlapped relationship to the upper margins of said lining sec.-

" tions, a line of stitches attaching the margin of said strip to the band portion of the infold ply and to the band lining section, a line of stitches attaching the opposite margin of said stripto said infold ply between said cape lining `section and said infold ply, and a line of zigzagl which the band and cape may be turned against eachother; lining sections in the band and cape respectively having their upper edges separated by a narrow longitudinal space at said fold line, a strip extending approximately the length of the collar along and across said fold line and having its upper margins in overlapped relationship to the upper margins of said lining sections, a line of stitches attaching the margin of said strip to `the band portion of the infold ply and to the band lining section, a line of stitches attaching the opposite margin of said strip to the cape portion of the infold ply adjacent to said iold line, and a line of zigzag stitches crossing said second line of stitches and also crossing the edge of said cape lining section and attaching the upper margin of said cape lining section and said strip tor said infold ply adjacent to the border of said fold line.

6. In a turned down collar having an exposed ply, and an infold ply, both extending the full length and width of the collai` and forming a band and a cape and having a fold line along which the band and cape may be turned against each other; a lining section in the cape having its upper edge slightly below the fold line and within the cape, a strip extending approximately the length of the collar along and across said fold line and having one margin in overlapped relationship to the margin of said cape lining section and between said lining section and the infold ply of the collarlines of stitches attaching the marginso-f said strip to the infold ply below said fold line within the band and cape respectively, a line of stitches attaching said plies and said band lining section and said strip below said fold line, anda zigzag line of stitches crossing that iirst named line of stitches which is within the cape of the collar and attaching the upper. margin of said cape lining section to said strip and to said infold ply along one side of said foldline. i

7. In a tuined down collarhaving an exposed ply, and an infold ply, both extending the full length and width of the collar and forming a band and a cape' and having a fold line along which the band and cape may be turned against each other; a lining section in the cape having its upper edge slightly below the fold line and Within the cape, a strip extending approximately the length of the collar along and across said fold line and having one margin in overlapped relationship to the margin of said cape lining section and between said lining section and the infold ply of the collar, lines of stitches attaching the margins of said strip to the infold ply belowv said fold line within the band and cape respectively, and a zigzag line of stitches passing through said cape lining section, said strip and said infold ply and crossing ,that rst'named line of stitches that is within the cape of the collar and also crossing the upper edge of said lining section and attaching the upper margin of said lining section to said strip and to said infold ply along the side of said fold line.

i WTLTON RUBINSTEIN.

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