EA028536B1 - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a water-in-oil emulsion comprising hydrophobically modified particles, amino functionalized silicone comprising an amino glycol copolymer, and water; the cosmetic composition further comprising a viscosity modifying agent and optical light modifying agent. The viscosity modifying agent is selected from the group consisting of non-amino functionalized silicone, fatty acids, esters of fatty esters, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. The optical light modifying agent is selected from the group consisting of particles with a refractive index from 1 to 3, agents providing a soft focus appearance and mixtures thereof. The agents providing a soft focus appearance are selected from the group of Nylon-6 powder; polymethyl methcacrylate; polyurethane microspheres; ethylene-methyl methacrylate copolymer; mica and titanium dioxide and ethylene/methacrylate copolymer and isopropyl titanium triisostearate; Nylon-12 and chitosan; silica and C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate. The cosmetic composition is provided to be applied to the skin. The invention further relates to a method of modifying the optical appearance of skin comprising the step of applying to the skin the cosmetic composition of the invention. The composition provides a predictable modulation of the optical appearance of the skin over time. The composition is easily applied to the skin and delivers a silky sensation and non-stickiness.

Description

(57) The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing a water-in-oil emulsion containing hydrophobically-modified particles, an amino-functionalized silicone containing an aminoglycolic copolymer, and water; the cosmetic composition also contains a viscosity modifier and a visible light modifier. The viscosity modifier is selected from the group consisting of non-amino functionalized silicone, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. The visible light modifier is selected from the group consisting of particles with a refractive index of 1 to 3, means providing a visible soft focus effect, and mixtures thereof. Means providing a visible soft focus effect are selected from the group: powder Νυ 1oi-6; Polymethyl Methacrylate; polyurethane microspheres; ethylene-methyl methacrylate copolymer; mica and titanium dioxide and a copolymer of ethylene / methacrylate and isopropyl titanium triisostearate; ΝνΙοη-12 and Chitosan; Silicon Dioxide and C9-15 Fluoroalcohol Phosphate. The cosmetic composition is intended for application to the skin. The invention also relates to a method for changing the visible appearance of the skin, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition of the invention to the skin. The composition provides a predictable change in the appearance of the skin, which persists for a long time. The composition is easily applied to the skin and provides a feeling of silkiness and lack of stickiness.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular to cosmetic compositions suitable for reversibly changing the visible appearance of the skin.

State of the art

Many consumers are concerned about the properties of their skin. For example, consumers with senile spots or moles often want such pigmented dots to be less noticeable. Other consumers may want to reduce the darkening of the skin caused by exposure to sunlight, or lighten or change their natural skin color.

To meet consumer demands, products have been developed that affect skin chemistry, such as, for example, products that reduce the formation of pigment in melanocytes (i.e., reduce melanogenesis). Such products are based on ingredients that change skin color on their own, and often tend to exhibit low efficacy or undesirable side effects, such as, for example, toxicity or skin irritation.

Some consumers prefer to use products that change the visible appearance of their skin in a reversible (intermittent) way, and which do not (forever) change, for example, skin color alone or interact with skin chemistry. Developed products that contain particles, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, with a high refractive index, which provide a visible skin whitening effect, if these particles are applied to the skin, for example, as part of, for example, skin cream. Such particles, thus, temporarily change the visible appearance of the skin on which they are applied.

Moles and facial wrinkles on human skin are perceived mainly as dark, non-reflective areas, because the stream of light falls and remains there. In contrast, if light is reflected and scattered, moles appear less visible. Methods have been developed to direct light into moles and directly eliminate dark spots, which makes wrinkles extremely obvious. Use materials that generate visible blurring, but are still transparent enough to avoid a mask-like appearance. This is called the soft focus effect and is described by Όγ. Ettey in fiapysyayop oG Shs Boy-Rosik EGGesG, Sokteysk apb ToEeO / ek, νοί. 111, 57-61 (1996).

UK patent OV 2431103 (Ohosha Yb.) Describes the use of transition and / or lanthanide metal oxides (especially one or more of ΤίΟ ₂ , ΖηΟ and CeO ₂ ) doped with one or more ions (especially one or more of Mn ² ', V ⁵ ' and Cr ³ '), which give the oxides the properties of light absorption.

Consumers prefer products that give a predictable change in the visible appearance of their skin. Not only touching on the effect immediately after applying cosmetic compositions, but also on how the visible appearance of their skin changes over time. Usually, the visible effect of cosmetic compositions is more pronounced immediately after application with a decrease in the visible effect over time.

Japan Patent 1P 2008-143820 (KAO) describes cosmetic compositions containing a hydrophobic powder, a copolymer, a nonionic water-soluble polymer and one oily component, liquid at 25 ° C. Mentioned compositions should be stable over time, not to create a powder sensation, and to be excellently felt when used.

Consumers prefer products that are easy to use (for example, easy to apply to the skin) and / or that provide superior sensory benefits after superficial application to the skin (such as lack of stickiness or a silky feel).

Thus, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that intermittently predictably change the visible appearance of the skin, especially after the lapse of time after application to the skin. So, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that deliver the benefits of a visible appearance with good sensory properties, such as, for example, the lack of stickiness.

The inventors have developed cosmetic compositions that do not have the above disadvantages.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-in-oil emulsion comprising:

a) hydrophobically-modified particles selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof;

b) an amino functionalized silicone containing an amino glycol copolymer; and

c) water; cosmetic composition also contains

b) a viscosity modifier selected from the group consisting of non-amino functionalized silicone, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof;

e) a visible light modifier selected from the group consisting of particles with a refractive index of 1 028536 from 1 to 3, means providing a soft focus effect and mixtures thereof, while the water content is from 30 to 90 wt.% of the total composition, and the tool that provides the visible effect of soft focus choose a number: powder Νγ1οη-6; Polymethyl Methacrylate; polyurethane microspheres; ethylene-methyl methacrylate copolymer; mica and titanium dioxide and a copolymer of ethylene / methacrylate and isopropyl titanium triisostearate; Νγ1οη-12 and Chitosan; Silicon Dioxide and C9-15 Fluoroalcohol Phosphate.

The invention also relates to a method for changing the visible appearance of the skin, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition of the invention to the skin.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Mass fraction (wt.%) Is based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

The cosmetic composition of the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion. The water content is from 30 to 80 wt.%, Preferably from 40 to 70 wt.%.

Visible appearance

The inventors unexpectedly found that the optical effect of visible light modifiers when used in a cosmetic composition further comprising hydrophobically-modified particles, amino-functionalized silicone, water and a viscosity modifier shows a smaller decrease over time after application to the skin. Therefore, this composition leads to a more predictable change in the visible appearance of the skin over time.

The visible appearance of the skin after applying the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be measured by determining the haze at 450 nm or the soft focus caused by the composition using the methods described in the experimental section of this description.

Changes with time of the visible appearance are defined as haze or soft focus after a certain time (ΐ), divided by haze or soft focus immediately after application (1 = 0) according to the method described in the experimental section of this description, multiplied by 100%. For the purposes of this invention, the resulting percentage is determined as a parameter of the duration of preservation of the visible appearance of the PSVV.

For example, if the haze at 450 nm for the composition is 0.124 immediately after application and 0.117 after 30 minutes, the PSVV after 30 minutes is 94%.

For example, if for a composition the soft focus is 0.715 immediately after application and 0.076 after 30 minutes, the PSVV after 30 minutes is 11%.

The composition according to any one of paragraphs. from 1 to 13 has a parameter for the duration of preservation of the visible appearance of the PSVV after 30 minutes at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, even more preferably at least 80% and even more preferably at least at least 90%.

Preferably, the duration of preservation of the visible appearance of the PSVV is based on a haze measurement.

Hydrophobically modified particles

The compositions of the invention contain hydrophobically-modified particles of silicon dioxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrophobically-modified particles comprise silica or titanium oxide, more preferably hydrophobically-modified silica.

Particularly preferably, if the hydrophobically-modified silicon dioxide contains a hydrophobic group of the formula

in which K is an alkyl group C ₄ -C ₁₈ .

Especially preferred is hydrophobically-modified silica containing

Preferred grades of silicon dioxide are described in US patent I8 7282236 and manufactured

- 2,028,536 commercially available from suppliers such as Ewoshk Bsdi ^ OTN under the names Aegoy K812, K202 and K805. Silicon dioxide grades having C4-C15 alkyl groups attached to the alloy are preferred. Particularly preferred is octylsilane containing the group represented by the formula above (sold under the name AegosP K805).

The hydrophobically-modified silica preferably has a primary particle size (in the dry state) from 1 to 100 nm, more preferably from 5 to 70 nm.

The composition of the invention preferably contains from 0.05 to 15 wt.% Of the total weight of the hydrophobically-modified silica composition, more preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt.% And most preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt.%.

Amino-functionalized silicone

The compositions of the invention comprise amino functionalized silicone.

By amino functionalized silicone is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, or a quaternary ammonium group.

Primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amino groups may either form part of the main polymer chain or more preferably be part of a side or hanging group carried by the polymer backbone.

Amino-functionalized silicone polymers suitable for use in the invention are described in US Pat. No. 8,118,587.

Amino-functionalized silicones suitable for use in the invention will typically have a mole% functionality of amino groups in the range of about 0.1 to about 8.0 mol%, preferably about 0.1 to about 5.0 mol%, most preferably about 0 , 1 to about 2.0 mol%. In general, the concentration of amino groups should not exceed about 8.0 mol%.

In a preferred embodiment, the functionalized polymers are amodimethicones having the general formula

in which each K is independently H, or C _1-4 alkyl, preferably H; each K ¹ is independently OK or C _1-4 alkyl; and each x is independently an integer from 1 to 4 and each y is greater than zero and independently an integer to obtain a polymer having a molecular weight of from 500 to 1 million, and preferably from 750 to 25000, and most preferably from 1000 to 15000.

Especially preferred are silicones containing an aminoglycol copolymer. Especially preferred is bis (C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, for example BS 8500 from Bo \ y Sogshpd.

It is also within the scope of this invention for a functionalized polymer to contain trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

Preferably, the content of silicone polymers functionalized with an amino group is from 0.05 to 25 wt.% Of the total composition, more preferably from 0.05 to 15 wt.%, Even more preferably from 0.1 to 10% and even more preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt.%.

Preferably, the ratio of the weight of the hydrophobically-modified particle to the weight of the amino-functionalized silicone is from 3: 1 to 1:50, more preferably from 1: 1 to 1:10.

Viscosity modifier

The compositions of the invention comprise a viscosity modifier selected from the group consisting of non-amino functionalized silicone, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable non-amino functionalized silicones include, and are preferably polydiorganoxyloxanes, in particular polydimethylxiloxanes, which are designated as Perfumes and Perfumes and Perfumes Association (CTP A) dimethicone. Also suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are polydimethylxiloxanes containing hydroxyl end groups, which are designated as STRP dimethiconol. Silicone rubbers having a low degree of cross-linking are also suitable for use in the compositions of the invention, as, for example, described in international patent \ UO 96/31188. Suitable non-amino functionalized silicones are volatile silicone oils, similar to, for example, cyclopentasiloxane (for example, ES 245 liquid from EO / Sotppd); non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane polymers like the OS 200 series of oils from EO \ u Sotshpd with a viscosity of from 0.65 cSt to 600000 cSt; silicone elastomeric mixtures similar to OS 9041 (dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer from Όον Sotpspd), OS 9045 and OS 9040 (dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer from Όον Sottid) OS 9546 (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer imedimetone dimethicone dimethicone dimethicone dimethicone dimethicone dimethoxide ), OS 9506 (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross-polymer from EO \ Sottid); silicone elastomeric suspensions similar to OS 9509 (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross-polymer and C12-14 Ratate-12 from EO \ y Sottid).

Suitable fatty acids are fatty acids containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Illustrative examples of such fatty acids include geranium, laurel, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic, arachidonic, behenic or erucic acid and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid esters include and are preferably saturated fatty acid alkyl esters having 10-24 carbon atoms; esters of ester acids, such as esters of fatty acids, ethoxylated saturated fatty alcohols; esters of polyhydric alcohols, ethylene glycol mono- and di-esters of fatty acids, diethylene glycol mono- and di-esters of fatty acids, etc .; wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribechenin wax; fatty acid sugar esters such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycotonsidate; softeners of natural esters based on mono-, di-, triglycerides.

Hydrocarbons include, and are preferably petroleum jelly, petroleum (mineral oil), C ₁₁ -C ₁₃ isoparaffins, polytubenes, isohexadecane, commercially available as permethyl 101 A from Rgekregke 1ps.

Fatty alcohols are aliphatic alcohols consisting of a chain with at least 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohols have a chain of 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the viscosity modifier comprises at least one non-amino functionalized silicone, and more preferably, the viscosity modifier is selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane, pentasiloxane, dimethicone, oil (mineral oil), and mixtures thereof.

Preferred viscosity modifiers are Dimethicon OS 200 series oils from Eo \ u Sotppd with a viscosity of 0.65 to 6000 cSt, mineral oil 70 §I8, glycerin, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

Preferably, the viscosity modifier content is from 0.05 to 60 wt.%, Preferably from 1 to 40 wt.% And more preferably from 5 to 30 wt.%.

Preferably, the ratio of the weight of the viscosity modifier to the weight of the amino functionalized silicone is from 10: 1 to 1:50, and preferably from 3: 1 to 1:20.

Visible light modifier

The composition of the invention contains a visible light modifier selected from the group consisting of particles with a refractive index of 1 to 3, means providing a soft focus effect, and mixtures thereof.

Visible light modifiers are known ingredients in the field of cosmetic compositions. For example, particles with a high refractive index are used to provide, for example, a temporary whitening effect when applied to the skin. Such particles can, for example, also be modified so that they have a color (i.e. not white). Preferably, the particles have a refractive index of from 1.5 to 3. Preferably, the particle size is from 10 nm to 100 μm, more preferably from 30 nm to 50 μm, and even more preferably from 50 nm to 1 μm.

Suitable particles include particles containing titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, copper oxide, coral, cordierite, ivory, mother of pearl, jet, jade and jadeite.

Suitable particles further include high refractive index polymers such as Poly (pentabromophenyl methacrylate); Poly (pentabromophenyl acrylate); Poly (pentabromobenzyl methacrylate; Poly (pentabromobenzyl acrylate); Poly (2,4,6-tribromophenylmethacrylate); Poly (vinylphenyl sulfide); Poly (1-naphthylmethacrylate); Poly (2-vinylthiophene); Poly (2,6-dichloro styrene) Poly (Y-vinylphthalimide); Poly (2-chlorostyrene) and Poly (pentachlorophenylmethacrylate).

Particles providing the effect of soft focus, are well known in the field of cosmetic compositions and can be easily obtained from commercial suppliers. Preferably, such particles have a refractive index of 1 to 3, and more preferably 1.3 to 2. Preferably, these particles have a size of 50 nm to 100 μm and preferably 1 to 50 μm.

Suitable particles providing a soft focus effect include Liuop-6 powder (e.g., TK-1); Polymethyl Methacrylate (e.g. ΟΑΝΖΡΕΑΚΤ® SM-0600); polyurethane microspheres (for example, ΒΡΌ-500 \ ν); Ethylene-Methyl Methacrylate copolymer (e.g., P1o-Beab8 8Ε3107Α); mica and titanium dioxide and a copolymer of Ethylene / Methacrylate and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (for example LRS / ΚΤΖ 1n1etua1 B1ie-12); Zh1op-12 and Chitosan (for example, ST-2 Zh1op 8R-500); and dioxide

- 4,028,536 silicon and C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate (for example, PP-5 Μ88-500 / 3Ν).

The visible light modifier may be made of more than one material. It may, for example, be a particle composed of two or more different materials. Different materials can only be mixed (for example, composites) or one material can be coated with another material. For example, titanium dioxide particles can be at least partially coated with, for example, aluminum hydroxide.

Preferably, the visible light modifier comprises titanium dioxide.

The preferred modifier of visible light is 8L-TK-10 from the supplier Μίνοδίιί Kake! (chemical name: Titanium Dioxide, Aluminum Hydroxide and Dimethicone) having a particle size of 450 nm.

Preferably, the content of the visible light modifier is from 0.01 to 20 wt.%, Preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt.% And more preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt.%.

Additional ingredients

If desired, organic solvents may be included in addition to water to act as carriers or aid carriers within the compositions of the present invention. Illustrative and non-limiting examples of types of organic solvents suitable for use in the present invention include aliphatic alcohols, like ethyl or isopropyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, or the like.

In addition to the viscosity modifier, if only these ingredients are not already present as essential ingredients in the compositions of the invention, other additives may be added if desired.

Moisturizers such as polyols can also be used in the cosmetic compositions of this invention. The moisturizer often helps in improving the effectiveness of the softener, reduces peeling, stimulates the removal of formed scales and improves the tactile properties of the skin. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropylsorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-glycol ethoxylated glycerin, propoxylated glycerin and mixtures thereof. For best results, the humectant is preferably propylene glycol or sodium hyaluronate. The amount of humectant can be anywhere in the range from 0.2 to 25 wt.%, Preferably from 0.3 to 20 wt.% And more preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt.%.

Thickeners can also be used as part of the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Typical thickeners include cross-linked acrylates (e.g., SatoPo1 982), hyphrophobically modified acrylates (e.g., Caiboro1 1382), cellulosic derivatives and natural gums. Among the useful cellulosic derivatives are sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan gum, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin, and combinations of these gums. The number of thickeners can be in the range from 0.0 to 5 wt.%, Usually from 0.001 to 1 wt.%, Optimally from 0.01 to 0.5 wt.%.

In total, hydrophobically-modified particles, amino-functionalized silicone, water, a viscosity modifier and additional ingredients that are co-solvents, silicones, esters, fatty acids, moisturizers and / or thickeners will be from 1 to 99.9 wt.%, Preferably from 80 up to 99 wt.% cosmetic composition.

Surfactants (surfactants) may also be present in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention. The total concentration of surfactant will be in the range from 0 to 40 wt.% And preferably from 0 to 20 wt.%, Optimally from 0 to 5 wt.% Of the composition. Surfactants can be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric active substances. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohols, C ₃₀ -C ₂₀ hydrophobic, or acidic compounds, condensed by the action of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobic compounds; C ₂ -C ₃₀ alkyl phenols condensed by the action of 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; ethylene glycol fatty acid mono- and dihydric esters; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di-C ₈ -C ₂₀ fatty acids; block copolymers (ethylene oxide / propylene oxide); and polyoxyethylene sorbitan, as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharides of fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic surfactants.

Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl sulfonates, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C ₈ -C ₂₀ acyl isotionates, acyl glutamates, C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl ether.

Fragrances can be used in the cosmetic composition of this invention. Illustrative, non-limiting examples of the types of fragrances that can be used include those that contain terpenes and derivatives of terpenes, such as those described in Waieg, K., e! A1., Sottop Rgadgaiye apb R1auot Mshepara. USN Rijkjetk (1990).

In addition, illustrative non-limiting examples of types of flavors that may be

- 5,028,536 used in this invention include myrcene, dihydromirenol, citral, tagetone, cisheranic acid, citronella acid, or cis-geranium acid nitrile, mixtures thereof or the like.

Preferably, the amount of flavoring used in the cosmetic composition of this invention is in the range from 0 to 10 wt.%, More preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt.%, Most preferably from 0.0001 to 2 wt.%.

Sunscreens include those materials that are commonly used to damp ultraviolet light. Examples of such compounds are derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamate and salicylate. For example, avobenzophenone (Pag8o1 1789®), octyl methoxy cinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octylmethoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone are commercially available under the trade names Pag8o1 MCX and Vsp / opNspops-s, respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen used in the compositions may vary depending on the desired degree of protection against solar UV radiation.

If the cosmetic composition is an antiperspirant or deodorant composition, it may contain astringent active substances. Examples include aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrex-glycine, aluminum sulfate, zinc sulfate, zirconium and aluminum chlorohydroglycinate, zirconium hydroxychloride, zirconium and aluminum lactate, zinc phenosulfonate and combinations thereof. The amount of astringent may be somewhere in the range from 0.5 to 12 wt.%.

Many cosmetic compositions, especially those containing water, must be protected from the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Antimicrobial compounds, such as triclosan, and preservatives, therefore, are typically needed. Suitable preservatives include p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, hydantoin derivatives, propionic acid salts and a number of quaternary ammonium compounds. Particularly preferred preservatives of this invention are methyl paraben, propyl paraben, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol. Preservatives will usually be used in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight of the composition.

Still other optional ingredients that can be used with the cosmetic composition of this invention include dicarboxylic acids (e.g. malonic acid, sebacic acid), antioxidants like vitamin E, vitamins like niacinamide and vitamin C and derivatives thereof, recorcinols and their derivatives (including esterified with, for example, ferulic acid, vanilla acid or the like) and retinoids, including retinoic acid, retinal, retinol and retinyl esters, conjugated linoleic acid, petros venic acid and mixtures thereof, as well as any other common ingredients, well known as wrinkle reducing, whitening skin and reducing the effects of sebum.

Cosmetic Compositions

A cosmetic composition, as used herein, is intended to include a composition for topical application to the skin of mammals, especially humans. The compositions of the invention are typically compositions that are left for a while and are intended to include conditioners or tonics, lipstick, makeup, and generally local compositions, which in some way and at least slightly change the visible appearance of the surface onto which applied. Other benefits may include moisturizing the skin, reducing the effect of sebum on the skin and reducing skin wrinkles.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may take the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, serum, gel or coloring matter. The composition of this invention is such that it is at least slightly suitable for changing the visible appearance of the skin in a non-constant way (i.e., changing the visible appearance is reversible if the composition is removed, for example, by rinsing), where the skin is meant to include skin face neck, chest, back, shoulders, forearms, hands, legs, head and armpits.

Preferably, the viscosity at 25 ° C. of the compositions of the invention containing hydrophobically-modified particles, amino-functionalized oil, water, a viscosity-modifying oil and additional ingredients, including a visible light modifier, is from 10 ³ to 10 ⁶ Pa-s, more preferably 2-10 ³ up to 5-10 ⁵ Pa-s. The viscosity of the final cosmetic composition at 25 ° C. is preferably from 10 ³ to 10 ⁵ Pa-s and more preferably from 5-10 ⁴ to 5-10 ⁵ Pa-s.

Often, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a melting point of from about 30 to 45 ° C. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a pH of from 4.5 to about 8 at 25 ° C, more preferably from 5 to 7.

The way to change the visible appearance of the skin

The invention also relates to a method for changing the visible appearance of a skin, comprising the step of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition of the invention as described.

The method relates to at least an intermittent change in the visible appearance of the skin (i.e.

- 6,028,536 a change in the visible appearance is reversible if the composition is removed, for example, by washing off). Preferably, the method concerns only a fickle change in the visible appearance of the skin.

An intermittent change in the visible appearance of the skin typically relates to haze and / or soft focus. Preferably, the visible appearance is dull.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Examples

Primary particle size

Primary particle sizes can be obtained by transmission electron microscopy according to the method described by δ. Ci s1 a1. in the first chapter of the World Bank, Peggase 8s1epse 289 (2005) 419426.

Viscosity measurement

Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid to the applied pressure. Rheometer A MSK 501 (from Αηΐοη Raag 1n81gishep1b) was used to measure viscosity. The rheometer was connected to a source of compressed air to maintain a pressure of 5 bar, to ensure a constant speed of rotation. A plane-parallel plate having a size of 25 mm in diameter was used. An automatically controlled speed mode was used to measure forces in shear rate in the range from 0.001 to 100 s ^-1 at a temperature of 25 ° C.

Haze measurement

The haze was measured with a portable spectrophotometer (MGLOTA SM26006 in 8CE mode) at a temperature of about 23 ° C and a relative humidity of 45%. A 75 μm product film was applied to white and black cards using a film applicator. Haze (450 nm) was determined as the ratio between the reflectance of the product film on black and white cards at a wavelength of 450 nm.

Soft focus measurement

The soft focus index was measured with a goniometer after applying a 75 μm thick product film to a glass slide using a δΗΕΕΝ cubic film applicator at a temperature of about 23 ° C and a relative humidity of 45%.

The soft focus (MF) of the product film was calculated by the formula:

57 + 90 57 + 90

5E = \ Τ (θ) άθΙ \ Τ (θ) άθ

5Г + 9 57 where Τ (θ) is the transmittance of the angle θ and 8T is the mirror transmittance.

The angle of incidence was set to 48 °.

Receiving recipes

In order to formulate the compositions of the invention, the hydrophobically-modified silica particles were dispersed in silicone oils (functionalized by amino groups and non-amino groups) (Part I). The ingredients of Part II were combined with stirring until a homogeneous phase formed. Part I and Part II were then mixed in a steel vessel. The ingredients of Part III were combined with stirring and the ingredients of Part IV (if any) were added. A mixture of Part III and Part IV was then combined with a mixture of Part I and Part II by light homogenization to form a homogeneous structure. Additional ingredients were added (if available). The process takes place at room temperature.

Ingredients used

Aegozb K805 ex. Eyoshk Iyed88a СШЬН; IC 8500, IC liquid 200 5 cSt, IC liquid 200 12500 cSt, IC 9045 a11 ex. Iote Ranges; 8A-TK-10 ex. M1uozy Caser Mshega1 about ex. Opportunity; Ζ so! E HP-1 ex. BA8P; SM3Sh40IKR ex. KOVO; SAZHREAK® SM-0600 ex. Soot Sjetka 1.

Comparative mixtures A and B comparisons (in wt.%)

Trading mark Chemical name Mixture A Mixture B AegozP K805 Hydrophobic silicon dioxide 4.9 - OS 8500 Bis (C 13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone 44.5 49.4 H2O Water up to 100 up to 100 5Α-ΤΚ-Ι0 Titanium Dioxide (s) Aluminum Hydroxide (s) Dimethicone 1,2 1,2

- 7,028,536

Table 2. The haze dynamics of comparative mixtures A and B

Time ______ Haze (450 nm) 0 min 5 minutes 10 minutes 15 minutes 20 minutes 25 min 30 min Mixture A 0,306 0.249 0.227 0.195 0.191 0.179 0.190 Mixture B 0.254 0.166 0.128 0,126 0.125 0,126 0.131

Comparative examples A (without viscosity modifier) and B (without modified silica and without viscosity modifier) show a rapid decrease in haze within 30 minutes.

Examples 1 and 2

Table 3. The composition of examples 1 and 2 (in wt.%)

Trading mark Chemical name Note one Prim, 2 AegozP K805 Hydrophobic silicon dioxide 4.9 9.9 OS 8500 Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone 4,5 23.7 Liquid Polydimethylsiloxane 40,0 -

OS 200 5 cSt mineral oil Vaseline oil - 15.8 H2O Water up to 100 up to 100 8A-TE-10 Titanium dioxide (s) aluminum hydroxide (s) Dimethicone 1,2 1,2

Table 4. The haze dynamics of examples 1 and 2

Time Matte (450 nm) 0 min 5 minutes 10 minutes 15 minutes 20 minutes 25 min 30 min Note one 0.145 0.146 0.142 0.151 0.147 0.147 0.150 Note 2 0.178 0.175 0.172 0.169 0.162 0.162 0.162

Examples 1 and 2 (containing various viscosity modifiers) show a slight, if any, reduction in haze within 30 minutes.

Examples 3 and 4

Table 5. The composition of examples 3 and 4 (in wt.%)

Trading mark Chemical name Note 3 Note 4 Aegov and K805 Hydrophobic silicon dioxide 4.9 4.9 IX 8500 Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone 4.4 4.4 OS 200 liquid 5 cSt Polydimethylsiloxane 39.7 39.7 H2O Water up to 100 up to 100 ΖίοίεΗΡ-Ι Zinc oxide (s) triethoxycaprilisilane 2.0 - SMZSHOEKG Cyclomethicone (s) recovery iron oxide (s) C9-15 fluorosulfophosphates (s) polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (s) cetyl Dimethicone copolyol (s) hexillaurate - 2.0

Table 6. The haze dynamics of examples 3 and 4

Time —---_______ Haze (450 nm) 0 min 5 minutes 10 minutes 15 minutes 20 minutes 25 min 30 min Note 3 0,065 0,071 0,071 0,071 0,072 0,073 0,071 Note 4 0.417 0.442 0.43 0.419 0.416 0.414 0.413

Examples 3 and 4 (containing various visible light modifiers) show a slight, if any, reduction in haze within 30 minutes.

- 8 028536

Example 5. Comparative mixtures of C and Ό

Table 7. The composition of example 5 (in wt.%)

Part Trademark Chemical name Note 5 I Aegosi K805 Hydrophobic silicon dioxide 1.00 Sun 8500 Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone 0.90 Liquid BS 200 5 cSt Polydimethylsiloxane 8.10 Glycerol Glycerol 20.00 II Ragzo1 Ministry of Agriculture Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 6.00 ΟΑΝΖΡΕΑΚΕ® SM-0600 Polymethyl Methacrylate 4.00 III H2O Water up to 100 EVTA.2№ Disodium EDTA 0.05 Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.40 υ2ΐ Acrylate Crosspolymer / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.30 ΝαΟΗ (20% solution) Sodium hydroxide 0.30 Glycerol Glycerol 5.00 Methylparaben Methylparaben 0.20 Propylparaben Propylparaben 0.10 IV ES liquid 200 5 cSt Polydimethylsiloxane 6.00

Table 8. The composition of the comparative mixture C (in wt.%)

Part Trademark Chemical name Mixture C I H2O Water up to 100 ΕϋΤΑ.2Ν3 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Methylparaben Methylparaben 0.20 Emulgin 50 E, sucrose polystearate and hydrogenated polyisobutane 0.50 II SoztesNa 5P T, acrylic acid homopolymer, sodium salt 0.35 Butylene glycol N, butylene glycol 1.00 Glycerol Glycerol 3.00 H2O Water 2.00 III Propylparaben Propylparaben 0.10 ΡΟ, ϊοΙΜ Oh, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate 1.00 Cetearyl alcohol S16-18, O 2.40 SEYUN SS Dicapryl carbonate 4.00 Rigesup 6 Oh, hydrogenated polydecene 3.00 IV Кти1§ас1е ШСКСО E, sodium stearoylglutamate 1.00 ES liquid 200 cSt Polydimethylsiloxane 2.00 V Rag5o1 Ministry of Agriculture Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 6.00 VI □ ΑΝΖΡΕΑΚ.Ε® OM-0600 Polymethyl Methacrylate 4.00 VII STSS E, caprylic / capric triglyceride 2.00 VIII Souasgu 1 MU 60 Sodium Polyacrylate, T 0.20 Part Trademark Chemical name Mixture C Butylene glycol N, butylene glycol 1.00 H2O Water 2.00 IX H2O Water 15.25

Table 9. The composition of the comparative mixture Ό (in wt.%)

Part Trademark Chemical name Mixture B I Ragzo1 Ministry of Agriculture Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 2.00 BS 9045 Cyclopentasiloxane (s) Dimethicone Crosspolymer 26,50 II K.G6017 REO-U Dimethicon 1.19 OTSS E, caprylic / capric triglyceride 2,50 ZIKOL 034 Caprylmethicone 0.50 Ragzo1 Ministry of Agriculture Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 4.00 BC245 Cyclopentasiloxane 0.50 ΟΑΝΖΡΕΑΚΙ, ® SM-0600 Polymethyl Methacrylate 4.00 Weptope 38USO Hystoritis of distearyldimonium 0.27 III H2O Water up to 100 Glycerol Glycerol 7.25

- 9,028,536

Table 10. The dynamics of the soft focus of example 5 and comparative mixtures C and Ό

Time Soft focus 0 min 5 minutes 10 minutes 15 minutes 20 minutes 25 min 30 min Note 5 0.175 0,091 0,081 0.144 0.179 0.191 0.191 Mixture C 0.715 0.676 0.570 0.256 0.113 0,081 0,076 Mixture ϋ 0.582 0.361 0,080 0,054 0.059 0.059 0,062

Examples 5 and comparative examples C and Ό (all containing a visible light modifier Polymethyl Methacrylate, but in a different matrix) show that in the composition according to the invention there is a slight, if any, decrease in soft focus.

Examples 6 to 9

Table 11. The composition of examples from 6 to 9 (in wt.%)

Part Trademark Chemical name Note 6 Note 7 Note 8 Note nine I Aegosum K.805 Hydrophobic dioxide silicon 1.00 1.00 0.83 0.91 OS 8500 Bis (C 13-15 Alkoxy) PG 0.90 4,50 3.75 2.18

Amodimethicone OS 200 liquid 5 cSt Polydimethylsiloxane 8.10 - - - Liquid 200 12500 cSt Polydimethylsiloxane - 4,50 - - OS 9045 Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone Crossspolymerg - - 3.75 - Mineral oil mineral oil 70 δΠδ - - - 1.45 Glycerol Mr. Litserin 20.00 20.00 8.33 18.18 II Ragzo1 Ministry of Agriculture Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 6.00 6.00 5.00 5.45 5A-TK-10 Titanium dioxide (s) aluminum hydroxide (s) Dimethicone 0.60 0.60 0.50 0.6 III H2O Water BEFORE one hundred BEFORE one hundred BEFORE one hundred before one hundred ECTA.2Xa Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.04 0.04 Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 0.33 0.36 υ2ΐ Cro spoli measures acre and armor / C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.30 0.30 0.25 0.27 Jaon (zo1, twenty%) Sodium hydroxide 0.30 0.30 0.25 0.27 Glycerol Glycerol 5.00 5.00 4.17 4,54 Methylparaben Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.17 0.18 Propylparaben Propylparaben 0.10 0.10 0.09 0.09 IV OS liquid 200 1.5 cSt Polydimethylsiloxane 6.00 6.00 30.00 14.54

Table 12. The haze dynamics of examples from 6 to 9

0 min 5 minutes 10 minutes 15 minutes 20 minutes 25 min 30 min Note 6 0,086 0,073 0,069 0,068 0,068 0,066 0,068 Note 7 0.124 0,112 0.116 0.117 0.117 0.113 0.117 Note 8 0,089 0,083 0,083 0,087 0,086 0,091 0,088 Note nine 0,082 0,080 0,082 0,082 0,081 0,082 0,081

Examples 6 to 9 (containing various viscosity modifiers) show a slight, if any, reduction in haze within 30 minutes.

Claims (15)

CLAIM 1. A cosmetic composition for application to the skin containing a water-in-oil emulsion containing: a) hydrophobically-modified particles selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof; b) an amino functionalized silicone containing an amino glycol copolymer; and c) water; and ά) a viscosity modifier selected from the group consisting of non-amino functionalized silicone, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; e) a visible light modifier selected from the group consisting of particles with a refractive index of 1 to 3, means providing a visible soft focus effect, as well as mixtures thereof; wherein - 10 028536 means that provide a visible effect of soft focus, choose from the following series: powder Νγ1οπ-6; polymethyl methacrylate; polyurethane microspheres; ethylene methyl methacrylate copolymer; mica and titanium dioxide and ethylene / methacrylate copolymer and isopropide titanium triisostearate; Νγ1οπ-12 and chitosan; silicon dioxide and C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate; wherein the water content is from 30 to 90 wt.% by weight of the entire composition. 2. The composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobically-modified particles are particles of silicon dioxide or titanium oxide. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the hydrophobically-modified silicon dioxide contains about —— 3 (—Kg where K is an alkyl group C ₄ -C ₁₈ , more preferably an alkyl group C8H17. 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the hydrophobically-modified particle has a primary particle size of from 1 to 100 nm, preferably from 5 to 70 nm. 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the water content is from 30 to 80 wt.% By weight of the entire composition. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the content of amino-functionalized silicone is from 0.05 to 25 wt.%, Preferably 0.05 to 15 wt.%, More preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt.% And even more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight of the total composition. 7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the mass ratio of the hydrophobically modified particles to amino functionalized silicone is from 3: 1 to 1:50, preferably from 1: 1 to 1:10. 8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the viscosity modifier contains at least one non-amino functionalized silicone, and preferably the viscosity modifier is selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane, pentasiloxane, dimethicone, mineral oil, and mixtures thereof. 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the content of the viscosity modifier is from 0.05 to 60 wt.%, Preferably from 1 to 40 wt.% And more preferably from 5 to 30 wt.% By weight of the whole composition . 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in which the mass ratio of the viscosity modifier to the amino functionalized silicone is from 10: 1 to 1:50 and preferably from 3: 1 to 1:20. 11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, in which the visible light modifier contains titanium dioxide. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, in which the content of the visible light modifier is from 0.01 to 20 wt.%, Preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt.% And more preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt. % by weight of the entire composition. 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, in which the viscosity of the composition at 25 ° C is from 10 ³ to 10 ⁵ Pa-s and preferably from 5-10 ⁴ to 5-10 ⁵ Pa-s. 14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, having a parameter of the duration of preservation of the visible appearance (PSVV) after 30 minutes at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, even more preferably at least 80% and even more preferably at least 90%. 15. A method of changing the visible appearance of the skin, comprising the step of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition containing a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising: a) hydrophobically-modified particles selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof; b) an amino functionalized silicone containing an amino glycol copolymer; and c) water; wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises: E) a viscosity modifier selected from the group consisting of non-amino functionalized silicone, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; f) a visible light modifier selected from the group consisting of particles with a refractive index of 1 to 3, means providing a visible soft focus effect, as well as mixtures thereof, while means providing a visible soft focus effect are selected from the following series: powder Νγ1οπ-6; polymethyl methacrylate; polyurethane microspheres; ethylene methyl methacrylate copolymer; mica and titanium dioxide and a copolymer of ethylene / methacrylate and isopropyl titanium triisostearate; Νγ1οπ-12 and chitosan; silicon dioxide and C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate; while the water content is from 30 to 90