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NL2035477B1 - Eye cream formulation - Google Patents

Eye cream formulation Download PDF

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Publication number
NL2035477B1
NL2035477B1 NL2035477A NL2035477A NL2035477B1 NL 2035477 B1 NL2035477 B1 NL 2035477B1 NL 2035477 A NL2035477 A NL 2035477A NL 2035477 A NL2035477 A NL 2035477A NL 2035477 B1 NL2035477 B1 NL 2035477B1
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Netherlands
Prior art keywords
formulation
sodium polyacrylate
maximum
sodium
weight percent
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NL2035477A
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Dutch (nl)
Inventor
Barbe Karine
Burzava Alice
Julien Karine
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Coty Inc
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Various examples disclosed relate to an eye cream formulation including a first polyacrylate and a second polyacrylate at a ratio of about 3 : 1. The present disclosure includes a formulation for an eye cream with a gelling agent containing the first polyacrylate and a second polyacrylate at a ratio of about 3:1 in addition to a surfactant system, a powder, and a pigment. The eye cream formulation has good spreadability.

Description

EYE CREAM FORMULATION
BACKGROUND
[0001] Cosmetic formulations can be used to deliver any variety of beneficial effects to a user. Often the beneficial effect is provided by an active component. The ability to increase the diversity and amount of active component can increase the utility of the cosmetic formulation.
[0002] The cosmetics industry has increasing focus on skincare products and formulations. Various skincare products have been developed to address concerns of aging skin, wrinkles, elasticity, dryness, dullness, and other concerns. In particular, various eye creams and serums have been developed to address skincare concerns surround the eye area, such as dark circles, crow’s feet, overall dullness and loss of elasticity with age, among other concerns. In some cases, various skincare creams and serums are created as a set, so as to help the consumer prepare a holistic skincare routine.
SUMMARY OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0003] In an example, a formulation for a contouring and moisturizing eye cream can include a film forming system including a gelling mixture comprising a first sodium polyacrylate including a 2-propenoic acid, homopolymer, sodium salt, and a second sodium polyacrylate including a polyacrylic acid, sodium salt, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate have a ratio of about 3 to about 1, the gelling mixture comprising an amount of about 0.3 w.t% to about 3.0 wt.% of the formulation; at least two powders comprising boron nitride powder and pearlescent pigment; and a surfactant system, wherein the formulation has a maximum viscosity of about 31,500 cPs after 24 hours.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0004] Reference will now be made in detail to certain embodiments of the disclosed subject matter. While the disclosed subject matter will be described in conjunction with the enumerated claims, it will be understood that the exemplified subject matter is not intended to limit the claims to the disclosed subject matter.
[0005] The present disclosure provides a beneficial daily eye contour cream formulation having a gelling agent including two sodium polyacrylates provided at a specific ratio. The 1 formulation includes a specific combination of these two sodium polyacrylates that allows for beneficial properties such as good spreadability, blurring, and pick-up. Additionally, the formulation is relatively clean formulation, and is substantially free of PEG. The formulation can include the re-worked gelling agent made of the two sodium polyacrylates, one or more surfactants, and two types of powders, such as a boron nitride and a pearlescent powder.
[0006] The first sodium polyacrylate is a polymeric emulsifier that offers a silky, velvety and non-tacky after-feel in different types of skin care applications. The second sodium polyacrylate is a rheology modifier that provides thickening properties. The second sodium polyacrylate exhibits a powdery skin feel and a matte finish. The second sodium polyacrylate also provides no tacky feeling, long lasting freshness, and is well adapted to matte formulations.
[0007] The formulation discussed herein has several advantages, some of which are unexpected. The ratio and combination of the two polyacrylates allows for a good spreadability and beneficial blurring effect. Moreover, the formulation has good pick-up, and good feel (e.g., not greasy or tacky).
[0008] The daily eye contour cream formulation discussed herein can be used, for example, as a moisturizer on skin around the eyes to provide, healthy-looking eye-zone area. A glowing and lighted eye contour The daily eye contour cream formulation is a and rich, non- shiny cream that can help nourish and support the skin's natural moisture barrier.
[0009] The daily eye contour cream formulation can be useable on a variety of skin types, for all genders, and is a vegan formulation friendly for post procedure application. The daily eye contour cream formulation can help with anti-aging effects, and produce replenishing, illuminating, improving the appearance of winkles, dark circles, puffiness, and fine lines, can provide a firming effect, and can aid in decongested eye contour.
[0010] Throughout this document, values expressed in a range format should be interpreted in a flexible manner to include not only the numerical values explicitly recited as the limits of the range, but also to include all the individual numerical values or sub-ranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and sub-range is explicitly recited. For example, a range of “about 0.1% to about 5%” or “about 0.1% to 5%” should be interpreted to include not just about 0.1% to about 5%, but also the individual values (e.g., 1%, 2%, 3%, and 4%) and the sub-ranges (e.g., 0.1% to 0.5%, 1.1% to 2.2%, 3.3% to 4.4%) within the indicated range. The statement “about X to Y” has the same meaning as “about X to about Y,” unless 2 indicated otherwise. Likewise, the statement “about X, Y, or about Z” has the same meaning as “about X, about Y, or about Z,” unless indicated otherwise.
[0011] In this document, the terms “a,” “an,” or “the” are used to include one or more than one unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The term “or” is used to refer to a nonexclusive “or” unless otherwise indicated. The statement “at least one of A and B” or “at least one of A or B” has the same meaning as “A, B, or A and B.” In addition, it is to be understood that the phraseology or terminology employed herein, and not otherwise defined, 1s for the purpose of description only and not of limitation. Any use of section headings is intended to aid reading of the document and is not to be interpreted as limiting; information that is relevant to a section heading may occur within or outside of that particular section.
[0012] In the methods described herein, the acts can be carried out in any order without departing from the principles of the invention, except when a temporal or operational sequence is explicitly recited. Furthermore, specified acts can be carried out concurrently unless explicit claim language recites that they be carried out separately. For example, a claimed act of doing X and a claimed act of doing Y can be conducted simultaneously within a single operation, and the resulting process will fall within the literal scope of the claimed process.
[0013] The term “about” as used herein can allow for a degree of variability in a value or range, for example, within 10%, within 5%, or within 1% of a stated value or of a stated limit of a range and includes the exact stated value or range.
[0014] The term “substantially” as used herein refers to a majority of, or mostly, as in at least about 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99%, 99.5%, 99.9%, 99.99%, OT at least about 99.999% or more, or 100%. The term “substantially free of” as used herein can mean having none or having a trivial amount of, such that the amount of material present does not affect the material properties of the composition including the material, such that about 0 wt.% to about 5 wt.% of the composition is the material, or about 0 wt.% to about 1 wt.%, or about 5 wt.% or less, or less than or equal to about 4.5 wt.%, 4, 3.5, 3,2.5,2,1.5,1,0.9,0.8,0.7, 0.6,0.5,0.4, 0.3, 0.2, 0.1, 0.01, or about 0.001 wt.% or less, or about 0 wt.%.
[0015] Eve Cream Formulation
[0016] Various examples herein include a formulation for a daily eye contour cream including a film forming system including a gelling agent mixture. The gelling agent mixture includes both a first sodium polyacrylate and a second sodium polyacrylate, where the first 3 sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate are provided in the gelling agent mixture at a ratio of about 3 to 1. The formulation can further include powders, such as boron nitride, pearlescent pigments, or other components. The formulation further includes a surfactant system.
[0017] The formulation can have a beneficial viscosity for skin care application. For example, the formulation can have a viscosity in the range of about 22,500cPs to about 31,000 cPs, of about 23,000 cPs to about 27.000 cPs, or about 23,500 cPs to about 26,500 cPs when tested after 24 hours. In an example, the formulation can have a maximum viscosity of about 26,500 cPs,‚ of about 27,500 ¢Ps, or of about 27,500 cPs when tested after 24 hours. In an example, the formulation can have a minimum viscosity of about 22,500 cPs, of about 23,000 cPs, or of about 23,500 cPs when tested after 24 hours.
[0018] The formulation can be substantially free of polyethylene glycol. For example, the formulation can contain less than about 0.1 wt.% PEG-8, less than about 0.08 wt.% PEG-18, less than about 0.06 wt.% PEG-18, less than about 0.04 wt.% PEG-18, less than about 0.02 wt.%
PEG-18, or less than about 0.01 wt.% PEG-18.
[0019] A pH of the eye cream formulation is in a range of from about 5 to about 7, about 5.5 to about 6.5, less than, equal to, or greater than about 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, or about 7.
[0020] The Film Forming System
[0021] The gelling agent mixture can act as a film forming system on a consumer’s skin.
The film forming system, including the gelling agent mixture, can be about 0.3 to about 3.0 wt.% or about 0.5 to about 2.0 wt.% of the total formulation weight. The gelling agent mixture can contribute to spreadability of the formulation and an even application thereof to a consumers skin.
[0022] In this formulation, the gelling agent mixture includes the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate at a ratio of 3:1. Sodium polyacrylate salts can generally be crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers. The sodium polyacrylates herein can be used in particulate form in some cases.
[0023] Here, the mixture of the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate can act at the gellant in the formulation. The first polyacrylate includes acrylic acid homopolymer sodium salt or polyacrylic acid, sodium salt (such as Cosmedia® SP from BASF
Care Creations, Rhein, Germany), while the second sodium polyacrylate includes 2-propenoic 4 acid, homopolymer, sodium salt (such as Covacryl®MV60 from SENSIENT BEAUTY, Saint
Ouen L’ Aumone, France). By comparison, the first sodium polyacrylate is in INCI 12% of water and 88% of sodium polyacrylate.
[0024] Together, the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate, at a ratio of 3:1, provide substantial benefits to the formulation as a whole, and act as the gelling agent within the formulation.
[0025] The first sodium polyacrylate is an emulsifying polymer with stabilizing, thickening, and emulsifying properties. The first sodium polyacrylate aids in producing light texture, good spreadability, and a fresh skin feel with good tolerability. In an example, the first sodium polyacrylate can be a polyacrylic acid sodium salt.
[0026] The first sodium polyacrylate has and good sensory profile, offering a silky, velvety and non-tacky after-feel. In an example, the first sodium polyacrylate can be water soluble and act as a rheology modifier or thickener and can act improve the stability of the emulsion. The first sodium polyacrylate can enhance slip and spreadability of the formulation.
The first sodium polyacrylate can provide nourishing, plumping, transparent, non-tacky and matte finish.
[0027] The first sodium polyacrylate can be up to about 1.80 wt.% of the formulation, up to about 1.50 wt.% of the formulation, up to about 1.0 wt.% of the formulation, or up to about 0.1 wt.% of the formulation.
[0028] The second sodium polyacrylate is a thickening agent that allows for velvet touch and powdery skin feel. The second sodium polyacrylate can provide a fresh sensation to the skin and improve spreadability of the formulation. The second sodium polyacrylate is non-tacky and allows for a matte finish. In an example, the second sodium polyacrylate can include sodium polyacrylate in water. In an example, the second sodium polyacrylate can be an emulsifying polymer. In an example, the second sodium polyacrylate can be water soluble and act as a rheology modifier or thickener. The second sodium polyacrylate can provide a cooling effect due to its frosty appearance.
[0029] The second sodium polyacrylate can be up to about 1.8wt.% of the formulation, upto about 1.5 wt.% of the formulation, up to about 1.0 wt.% of the formulation, up to about 0.5 wt.% of the formulation, or up to about 0.1 wt.% of the formulation. 5
[0030] In an example, the ratio of the first sodium polyacrylate to the second sodium polyacrylate 1s about 3:1. This ratio provide advantageous spreadability, feel, and sensory results, as discussed below in the Examples.
[0031] Powders and Pigments
[0032] In addition to the gelling agent mixture, the formulation can include one or more powders or pigments as desired. For example, the formulation can include one or more texturizing powders, such as a boron nitride powder, and pigments, such as pearlescent pigments.
[0033] One or more powders can be used in the formulation. For example, one or more powders can be used in formulation that include particles that help to create visual special effect, improve skin feel and skin texture. For example, one or more powders can be used in the formulation that includes particulates allowing holding of a thin film therein. Such powders can help provide an appropriate viscosity and feel (e.g., tackiness) of the formulation.
[0034] In an example, boron nitride powder can be included in the formulation. The synthetic boron-based inorganic compound can be used in the formulation to increase adherence of the formulation, and act as a functional filler. In an example, boron nitride powder can be used to help in smooth application and adhesion of the formulation. In an example, the boron nitride powder can act as a filler component in the formulation.
[0035] In an example, the boron nitride powder can be about 0.3 wt.% to about 1.02 wt.% of the total formulation, about 0.5 wt.% to about 1.00 wt.% of the total formulation, or about 0.6 wt.% to about 0.90 wt.% of the total formulation.
[0036] In some examples, additional powders such as mica, talc, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, polyamide, cellulose, starches (e.g., tapioca or corn starches), inorganic particles such as silicone-based powders, or other appropriate powders may be used instead of or in addition to boron nitride powder, such as for blurring benefits.
[0037] One or more pigments can be used in the formulation. In an example, such a pigment can include a particulate material that can provide luster, hue, color, or other visual benefits to the composition. Such a pigment can be organic or inorganic. In an example, such a pigment can be coated or uncoated.
[0038] In an example, pearlescent pigments can be included in the formulation.
Pearlescent pigments can include partly translucent powders, such as formed by depositing titanium dioxide and/or iron salts onto mica, layered with metal oxides. Such pearlescent 6 pigments can provide beneficial reflective properties and pigmentation to the formulation. Such pearlescent pigments can aid in providing luster to the formulation. In some cases, pearlescent pigments can be substrate-free. In some cases, pearlescent pigments can be layered. Example pearlescent pigments include, but are not limited to coated mica platelets, such as including titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or other metal oxide components.
[0039] In an example, the pearlescent pigments can be about 0.3 wt.% to about 1.02 wt.% of the total formulation, about 0.5 wt.% to about 1.00 wt.% of the total formulation, or about 0.6 wt.% to about 0.90 wt.% of the total formulation.
[0040] In some examples, additional or alternative pigments may be included in the formulation. Such pigments can be included to adjust the tone, luster, and look of the formulation. Example pigments can include inorganic pigments such as titanium dioxide, iron oxides, ultramarines, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, or organic pigments such as azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes, and/or dyes such as FD&C or
D&C dyes. Such pigments can be optionally used in addition to the pearlescent pigments, in any suitable combination.
[0041] The Surfactant System
[0042] The eye cream formulation can include any number of suitable surfactants, such as making up a surfactant system therein. The surfactant can stabilize the formulation, such as by stabilizing the emulsion. The surfactant can additionally help to tune the feel, texture, and spreadability of the cosmetic formulation. For example, the formulation can include a surfactant system, being about 2.5 wt.% to about 7.0 wt.% of the total formulation, about 3.0 wt.% to about 6.5 wt.% of the total formulation, or about 3.5 wt.% to about 6.0 wt.% of the total formulation.
The surfactant system can include one or more components for adjusting the surface tension of the formulation, such as for good applicability and spreadability of the formulation.
[0043] In an example, the surfactant system can include sodium stearoyl glutamate and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate. In an example, the formulation can mclude about 1.0 wt.% to about 2 wt.% or about 1.5 wt.% sodium stearoyl glutamate. In an example, the formulation can include about 3.5 wt.% to about 4.5 wt.% or about 4 wt.% polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate. Of the whole formulation, the surfactant system can be in a range of from about 4.0 wt.% to about 6.0 wt.% of the eye cream formulation. 7
[0044] The surfactant can include many other suitable surfactants or mixtures of surfactants in addition to sodium stearoyl glutamate. For example, the surfactant can include nonionic surfactants.
[0045] Suitable nonionic surfactants are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,929,678, Laughlin et al, issued Dec. 30, 1975, and U.S. Pat. No. 4,285,841, Barrat et al, issued Aug. 25, 1981.
Exemplary, non-limiting classes of useful nonionic surfactants include Cs-C18 alkyl ethoxylates, with about 1-22 ethylene oxide units, including the so-called narrow peaked alkyl ethoxylates and Cs-C2 alkyl phenol alkoxylates, particularly ethoxylates and mixed ethoxylates/propoxylates, alkyl dialkyl amine oxides, alkanoyl glucose amides, and mixtures thereof. Other useful nonionic surfactants are polyethylene, polypropylene, and polybutylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols. Commercially available nonionic surfactants of this type include Igepal® CO-630, marketed by the GAF Corporation; and Triton® X45, X-114, X-100, and X-102, all marketed by the Rohm & Haas Company. These compounds are commonly referred to as alkyl phenol alkoxylates, preferably alkyl phenol ethoxylates. Further useful nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 25 moles of ethylene oxide. The alkyl chain of the aliphatic alcohol can either be straight or branched, primary or secondary, and generally contains from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. Examples of commercially available nonionic surfactants of this type include Tergitol® 15-S-9 (the condensation product of C11-Cis linear secondary alcohol with 9 moles ethylene oxide), Tergitol® 24-L-6 NMW (the condensation product of C12-C14 primary alcohol with 6 moles ethylene oxide with a narrow molecular weight distribution), both marketed by The
Dow Chemical Corporation; Neodol® 45-9 (the condensation product of C14-C15 linear alcohol with 9 moles of ethylene oxide), Neodol® 23-6.5 (the condensation product of C12-C1: linear alcohol with 6.5 moles of ethylene oxide), Neodol® 45-7 (the condensation product of Ci4-
Cislinear alcohol with 7 moles of ethylene oxide), Neodol® 45-4 (the condensation product of
C14-Ci5 linear alcohol with 4 moles of ethylene oxide), marketed by Shell Chemical Company, and Kyro® EOB (the condensation product of C13-C15 alcohol with 9 moles ethylene oxide), marketed by The Procter & Gamble Company. Other commercially available nonionic surfactants include Dobanol 91-8® marketed by Shell Chemical Co. and Genapol UD-080® marketed by Hoechst. This category of nonionic surfactant is referred to generally as “alkyl ethoxylates.” Other useful nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of ethylene oxide 8 with a hydrophobic base formed by the condensation of propylene oxide with propylene glycol.
Examples of compounds of this type include certain of the commercially-available Pluronic® surfactants, marketed by BASF. Further useful surfactants are the condensation products of ethylene oxide with the product resulting from the reaction of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine. Examples of this type of nonionic surfactants include certain of the commercially available Tetronic® compounds, marketed by BASF. Semi-polar nonionic surfactants are a special category of nonionic surfactants which include water-soluble amine oxides. These amine oxide surfactants in particular include Cio-Ciz alkyl dimethyl amine oxides and Cs-C12alkoxy ethyl dihydroxy ethyl amine oxides. Other nonionic surfactants are alkylpolysaccharides. Any reducing saccharide containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms can be used, e.g., glucose, galactose and galactosyl moieties can be substituted for the glucosyl moieties. Fatty acid amide surfactants, C12-C1s betaines and sulfobetaines (sultaines) are also knows surfactants.
[0046] In another example, amine oxide surfactants can be used. Commercially available amine oxides are the solid, dihydrate ADMOX 16 and ADMOX 18, ADMOX 12 and especially
ADMOX 14 from Ethyl Corp. Other surfactants include dodecyidimethylamine oxide dihydrate, hexadecyidimethylamine oxide dihydrate, octadecyidimethylamine oxide dihydrate, hexadecyltris(ethyleneoxy)dimethyl-amine oxide, tetradecyidimethylamine oxide dihydrate, and mixtures thereof.
[0047] In another example, biodegradably branched surfactants can be used, such as are more fully disclosed in WO98/23712 A published Jun. 4, 1998; WO97/38957 A published Oct. 23, 1997; WO97/38956 A published Oct. 23, 1997; WO97/39091 A published Oct. 23, 1997;
W0O97/39089 A published Oct. 23, 1997; WO97/39088 A published Oct. 23, 1997; WO97/39087
Al published Oct. 23, 1997; WO97/38972 A published Oct. 23, 1997; WO 98/23566 A Shell, published Jun. 4, 1998.
[0048] Additional or alternative surfactants can include a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-6
Ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/ polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 poliricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl 6-behenate, sorbitan esters, sucrose esters, alkyl polyglycosides, fatty acid glucamides, or a mixture thereof. If the surfactant includes a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, the polyglyceryl fatty 9 acid ester can include a mixture of polyglyceryl-4 laurate/sebacate; polyglyceryl-6 caprylate/caprate; and water. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can alternatively or additionally include a mixture of polyglyceryl-4 laurate/sebacate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate; and water. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can alternatively or additionally include polyglyceryl-4 caprate.
[0049] Additional Components
[0050] Optionally, the formulation can include additional components, such as but not limited to additional solvents, thickening agents, pigments, dyes, powders, fillers, surfactant components, or other components as desired. In some cases, additional emulsifiers or chelates may be used.
[0051] Thus, the formulations herein can contain a variety of other optional components suitable for rendering such compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits. Such conventional optional ingredients are well- known to those skilled in the art. These include any cosmetically acceptable ingredients such as those found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7th edition, edited by Wenninger and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association,
Inc., Washington, D.C., 1997). As used herein “cosmetically acceptable” means a material (e.g., compound or composition) which is suitable for use in contact with skin, hair or other suitable substrate.
[0032] Method of Making the Eye Cream Formulation
[0053] The eye cream formulation discussed herein can be prepared in a variety of ways, such as by using any suitable preparation method. For example, the cosmetic formula can be made by combining the film forming phase (e.g., including the gelling agent having the first polyacrylate and the second polyacrylate) with the surfactant system, the powder, and the pigment. All the components can be stirred or otherwise mixed to form the final eye cream formulation.
[0054] For example, the eye cream formulation can be made by first premixing the oil phase components of the formulation, such as by stirring at an elevated temperature at about 110 °C until homogenous. Next, the water phase components can be heated, such as to about 80 °C.
Then, the powders can be added to the water phase components by stirring. Subsequently, thickening agents can be added to the water phases one by one while stirring. The oil phase 10 components can be added to the water phase components to create the emulsion, such as by stirring. The formulation can then be cooled, such as to about 25 °C. The liquid can activate when the formula is under about 40 °C. Additional powder components can then be added, and the pH can be adjusted.
[0055] Method of Using the Eve Cream Formulation
[0056] The formulation discussed herein can be used by a consumer for skincare, such as around the eye. The formulation can be applied in the morning or evening, as an eye contour cream, such as for remedying eye puffiness. In some cases, the eye cream formulation can be applied as a make-up base and/or extender.
[0057] For example, a user can apply the eye cream formulation 1n the upper eye area and the lower eye area, such as through dots from an applicator, or alternatively with a finger.
The consumer can massage the dots of the formulation into the upper eye area and the lower eye area until the formulation is absorbed.
[0058] Examples
[0059] Various examples of the present disclosure can be better understood by reference to the following Examples which are offered by way of illustration. The present disclosure is not limited to the Examples given herein.
[0060] Example 1. Gellant Mixture Formulations
[0061] Several sample formulation are being prepared using the gelling agent containing the first polyacrylate and the second polyacrylate at a ratio of 3:1, as discussed herein.
Additionally, control and comparative examples using differing ratios of the first polyacrylate and the second polyacrylate are being prepared.
[0062] In each sample, the first polyacrylate used is Cosmedia® SP (BASF Care
Creations, Rhein, Germany), a polyacrylic acid, sodium salt, The second polyacrylate being used 1s CovacryI®MV60 (SENSIENT BEAUTY, Saint Ouen L’ Aumone, France), a 2-propenoic acid, homopolymer, sodium salt. 11
[0063] The samples are summarized below in Table 1:
Sample | wt.% polvacrylate | | wt.% polvacrylate 2 Total wt.% Ratio polyacrylate 1
ID (Cosmedia® SP) (Covacryl RMV 60) polyacrylate 1 + to polyacrylate 2 polvacrylate 2
B [os [eo 98
CL 10 [00 J to obo [1s [oo SL
Ee [8 [eo 0 18 0 000-00
OE | 00 [os J 05
GG | 00 J 10 [wo
OH | 00 | 1313 LO
OI LO 00 xs Fs
J |! eo 0 18 0 018 0 00-0]
EO [os [os | 13 | S58
Pp es LML 6 LO Stell
OQ | 05 TO 1419 LO Swld
Table 1. Gelling Agent Mixture Samples
[0064] The eye cream gellant formulations using the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate are being tested for pick up, spreadability, and blurring effect, through various testing protocols outlined below.
[0065] Example 2. Testing of Eve Cream Formulation Before Application
[0066] Sample formulations using the gellant mixtures from Example 1 are being made using the same amounts of the surfactant system, powder, and pigments. These samples will include the surfactant system of sodium stearoyl glutamate and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, in addition to boron nitride powder and pearlescent pigments, mixed with the various gellant mixture samples described in Table 1. The components of the eye cream formulation samples are summarized below in Table 2: 12
Sample ID First Second Surfactant Boron Pearlescent
Polvacrylate Polvacrylate sodium stearovl glutamate nitride pigments
Cosmedia® SP CovacryI&MV60 and polvglvceryl-2 powder (wt.%) (wt. %) (wt.%) dipolvhydroxvstearate (wt.%) | (wt.%)
BL 072 | 028 | 1s | 075 | 075 pb oo BL iy [075 | 075 1.5/4 1.5/4
Table 2. Eye Cream Formulation Samples
[0067] The samples will be prepared by mixing together the first polyacrylate
Cosmedia® SP (BASF Care Creations, Rhein, Germany), acrylic acid homopolymer sodium salt or polyacrylic acid, sodium salt; with the second polyacrylate, Covacryl®MV60 (SENSIENT
BEAUTY, Saint Ouen L’ Aumone, France), is a 2-propenoic acid, homopolymer, sodium salt, with the surfactant system including sodium stearoyl glutamate & polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, the boron nitride powder (RonaFlair Boroneige SF-9, Merck & Co., New
Jersey), and the pearlescent pigments (TIMIRON HALO WHITE 117228, Merck & Co., New
Jersey).
[0068] The formulation m Table 2 will initially be tested for pH and viscosity. Of these samples, those that perform well on pH and viscosity will be tested according to testing protocols before (“pick-up”), during, and after application of the eye cream formulation. Such testing protocol can include testing for appearance, texture, and odor at various timings.
[0069] For the pick-up testing, e.g., before application, the sample eye cream formulations will be tested in appearance for glossiness, and in texture for firmness, stickiness, and stringiness. For testing at pick-up, about 100 ul of the sample formulation is dropped off the thumb of each panelist conducting the sensory testing. This process 1s repeated for testing of glossiness, firmness, stickiness, and stringiness of the pre-application “pick-up” testing.
[0070] Pick-up Glossiness. The eye cream formulation glossiness will be tested to see the quantity of light reflected by the product. The glossiness of the formulation will be tested at pick- up. In the test for glossiness, the gloss of the product is assessed by looking at the product under 13 white light, and specifically analyzed while the 100 pl of the sample formulation is on the thumb of the panelist. The product 1s assigned a value on a scale of mat to glossy.
[0071] Pick-up Firmness. The eye cream formulation firmness will be tested to see the strength required to compress the product. Here, the 100 ul of the sample formulation on the thumb will be compressed softly between the thumb and forefinger. The panelist will assign the sample formulation a score of low to high.
[0072] Pick-up Stickiness. The eye cream formulation firmness will be tested to see the strength required to remove the forefinger from the thumb. Here, following the test for firmness, the 100 ul of the sample formulation will be on the compressed thumb and forefinger, which will be softly separated. The panelist will assign the sample formulation a score of low to high.
[0073] Pick-up Stringiness. The eye cream formulation firmness will be tested to see the quantity of the product being stretched, rather than broken, when separating the fingers. Here, the 100 pl of the sample formulation will be compressed between the thumb and the forefinger and separated once. The distance between the fingers will be equivalent to one finger. The panelist will assign the sample formulation a score of low to high.
[0074] These preliminary test of glossiness, firmness, stickiness, and stringiness will be performed on the sample enumerated in Table 2 above to show the beneficial appearance and texture of the new eye cream formulation using sodium polyacrylates in a specific ratio. It is anticipated that the inventive samples will perform well on these sensory markers.
[0075] Additionally, testing on the eye cream formulation during and after application can be performed, such as outlined in Example 3 below.
[0076] Example 3. Testing of Eye Cream Formulation During and After Application
[0077] The eye cream formulation will be tested during application to a consumer’s skin.
Here, odor, texture, and appearance will be tested. Specifically, for odor, the overall fragrance intensity during application will be tested. For texture, several sensor components will be tested, including wetness, spreadability, thickness, greasiness, oiliness, and lifting. For appearance, noodling will be tested.
[0078] For these tests, 50ul of the sample formulation 1s dropped off the forearm of the panelist, at the center of a 5cm-by-5cm zone marked by the panel leader. Each panelist will spread the product within the zone with 2 fingers (e.g., forefinger and middle finger), doing 14 circular movements at a speed of about 2 turns/sec to evenly apply the 50ul of the sample formulation on their skin.
[0079] Spreadability. The eye cream formulation will be tested during application to evaluate the easiness to spread the S0ul sample formulation on the skin. In this case, the panelist will review the spreadability of the 50ul sample formulation after three massages into the skin.
The panelist will assign the sample formulation a score of low to high.
[0080] These during-application tests of will be performed on the sample enumerated in
Table 2 above to show the beneficial appearance and texture of the new eye cream formulation using sodium polyacrylates in a specific ratio. It is anticipated that the inventive samples will perform well on these markers.
[0081] Additionally, the eye cream formulation will be tested after application to a consumer's skin. Here, odor, texture, and appearance can be tested. Specifically, for odor, the overall fragrance intensity after application will be tested. For texture, several sensor components will be tested, including stickiness, sliding effect, residue, residue type, velvety, and irritation.
For appearance, noodling and glossiness will be tested.
[0082] For these tests, after S0uL of the sample formulation has been rubbed in as described in Example 3 above, the panelist will wipe their fingers and begin the after-application evaluations.
[0083] These during-application tests of will be performed on a selection of the sample enumerated in Table 2 above to show the beneficial appearance and texture of the new eye cream formulation using sodium polyacrylates in a specific ratio. It is anticipated that the inventive samples will perform well on these markers.
[0084] The terms and expressions that have been employed are used as terms of description and not of limitation, and there is no intention in the use of such terms and expressions of excluding any equivalents of the features shown and described or portions thereof, but it 1s recognized that various modifications are possible within the scope of the examples of the present disclosure. Thus, it should be understood that although the present disclosure has been specifically disclosed by specific examples and optional features, modification and variation of the concepts herein disclosed may be resorted to by those of ordinary skill in the art, and that such modifications and variations are considered to be within the scope of examples of the present disclosure. 15
[0085] Additional Examples.
[0086] The following exemplary examples are provided, the numbering of which is not to be construed as designating levels of importance:
[0087] Example 1 includes formulation for a contouring and moisturizing eye cream, the formulation comprising: a film forming system including a gelling mixture comprising a first sodium polyacrylate including a 2-propenoic acid, homopolymer, sodium salt, and a second sodium polyacrylate including a polyacrylic acid, sodium salt, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate have a ratio of about 3 to about 1, the gelling mixture comprising an amount of about 0.3 w.t% to about 3.0 wt.% of the formulation; at least two powders comprising boron nitride powder and pearlescent pigment; and a surfactant system, wherein the formulation has a maximum viscosity of about 31,000 cPs after 24 hours.
[0088] Example 2 can include Example 1, wherein the formulation is substantially free of polyethylene glycol.
[0089] Example 3 can include any of Examples 1-3, wherein the formulation contains less than about 0.05 wt.% PEG-8.
[0090] Example 4 can include any of Examples 1-3, wherein the formulation has a minimum viscosity of about 22,500 cPs.
[0091] Example 5 can include any of Examples 1-4, wherein the formulation has a viscosity in the range of about 22,500 cPs to about 31,000 cPs.
[0092] Example 6 can include any of Examples 1-5, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 1.8wt.% of the formulation.
[0093] Example 7 can include any of Examples 1-6, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 1.5 wt. % of the formulation.
[0094] Example 8 can include any of Examples 1-7, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 1.0 wt.% of the formulation.
[0095] Example 9 can include any of Examples 1-8, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 0.5 wt. % of the formulation.
[0096] Example 10 can include any of Examples 1-9, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 1.80 wt.% of the formulation.
[0097] Example 11 can include any of Examples 1-10, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 1.50 wt.% of the formulation. 16
[0098] Example 12 can include any of Examples 1-11, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 1.0 wt.% of the formulation.
[0099] Example 13 can include any of Examples 1-12, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 0.1 wt.% of the formulation.
[00100] Example 14 can include any of Examples 1-13, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate comprises sodium polyacrylate in water.
[00101] Example 15 can include any of Examples 1-14, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate is an emulsifying polymer.
[00102] Example 16 can include any of Examples 1-15, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises a polyacrylic acid sodium salt.
[00103] Example 17 can include any of Examples 1-16, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate 1s water soluble.
[00104] Example 18 can include any of Examples 1-17, wherein the pearlescent pigment are about 0.5 wt.% to about 1.0 wt.% of the formulation.
[00105] Example 19 can include any of Examples 1-18, wherein the boron nitride is about 0.5 wt.% to about 1.0 wt.% of the formulation.
[00106] Example 20 can include any of Examples 1-19, wherein the surfactant system comprises sodium stearoyl glutamate and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate.
[00107] Example 21 can include any of Examples 1-20, wherein the surfactant system is about 3.0 wt.% to about 7.0 wt.% of the formulation. 17

Claims (21)

CLAIMS Wat wordt geclaimd is:CLAIMS What is claimed is: 1. Een formulering voor een omlijnende en hydraterende oogcrème, de formulering bestaande uit: een filmvormend systeem met inbegrip van een geleermengsel bestaande uit een eerste natrium natriumpolyacrylaat met inbegrip van een 2-propeenzuur, homopolymeer, natriumzout, en een tweede natriumpolyacrylaat met inbegrip van een polyacrylzuur, natriumzout, waarin het eerste natriumpolyacrylaat en het tweede natriumpolyacrylaat een verhouding van ongeveer 3 tot ongeveer 1, waarbij het geleermengsel een hoeveelheid bevat van ongeveer 0,3 gewichtsprocent tot ongeveer 3,0 gewichtsprocent van de formulering; ten minste twee poeders bestaande uit boornitridepoeder en parelmoerpigment; en een oppervlakteactieve stof, waarin de formulering een maximale viscositeit heeft van ongeveer 27500 cPs na 24 uur.1. A contouring and hydrating eye cream formulation, the formulation comprising: a film-forming system including a gelling mixture consisting of a first sodium polyacrylate including a 2-propenoic acid, homopolymer, sodium salt, and a second sodium polyacrylate including a polyacrylic acid, sodium salt, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate are in a ratio of about 3 to about 1, the gelling mixture comprising an amount of about 0.3 weight percent to about 3.0 weight percent of the formulation; at least two powders consisting of boron nitride powder and pearlescent pigment; and a surfactant, wherein the formulation has a maximum viscosity of about 27,500 cPs after 24 hours. 2. De formulering van eis 1, waarbij de formulering nagenoeg vrij is van polyethyleenglycol (PEG). glycol (PEG).2. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the formulation is substantially free of polyethylene glycol (PEG). glycol (PEG). 3. De formulering van claim 3, waarin de formulering minder dan ongeveer 0,05 gewichtsprocent PEG bevat. PEG BEVAT.3. The formulation of claim 3, wherein the formulation contains less than about 0.05% by weight of PEG. CONTAINS PEG. 4. De formulering van claim 1, waarbij de formulering een minimale viscositeit heeft van ongeveer4. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the formulation has a minimum viscosity of approximately 22.500 cPs.22,500 cPs. 5. De formulering van claim 1, waarbij de formulering een viscositeit heeft van ongeveer5. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the formulation has a viscosity of about 22.500 cPs tot ongeveer 27.500 cPs.22,500 cPs to about 27,500 cPs. 6. De formulering van eis 1, waarin het eerste natriumpolyacrylaat maximaal ongeveer 1,8wt.% van de formulering uitmaakt.6. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate constitutes a maximum of about 1.8wt.% of the formulation. 7. De formulering van eis 6, waarin het eerste natriumpolyacrylaat maximaal ongeveer 1,5 wt.% van de formulering uitmaakt.7. The formulation of claim 6, in which the first sodium polyacrylate constitutes a maximum of about 1.5 wt.% of the formulation. 8. De formulering van claim 7, waarin het eerste natriumpolyacrylaat maximaal ongeveer 1,0 gewichtsprocent van de formulering uitmaakt. 1,0 gewichtsprocent van de formulering uitmaakt. 188. The formulation of claim 7, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate constitutes a maximum of about 1.0 weight percent of the formulation. 1.0 weight percent of the formulation. 18 9. De formulering van claim 8, waarin het eerste natriumpolyacrylaat maximaal ongeveer 0,5 gewichtsprocent van de formulering uitmaakt. 0,5 gewichtsprocent van de formulering uitmaakt. 189. The formulation of claim 8, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate constitutes a maximum of about 0.5% by weight of the formulation. 0.5% by weight of the formulation. 18 10. De formulering van claim 1, waarin het tweede natriumpolyacrylaat maximaal ongeveer 1,80 gewichtsprocent van de formulering bevat.10. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises a maximum of about 1.80% by weight of the formulation. 11. De formulering van eis 10, waarin het tweede natriumpolyacrylaat maximaal ongeveer 1,50 gewichtsprocent van de formulering uitmaakt.11. The formulation of claim 10, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate constitutes a maximum of about 1.50 percent by weight of the formulation. 12. De formulering van claim 11, waarin het tweede natriumpolyacrylaat maximaal ongeveer 1,0 gewichtsprocent van de formulering uitmaakt. ongeveer 1,0 gewichtsprocent van de formulering uitmaakt.12. The formulation of claim 11, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate constitutes a maximum of about 1.0 weight percent of the formulation. constitutes a maximum of about 1.0 weight percent of the formulation. 13. De formulering van claim 12, waarin het tweede natriumpolyacrylaat maximaal ongeveer 0,1 gewichtsprocent van de formulering uitmaakt. ongeveer 0,1 gewichtsprocent van de formulering uitmaakt.13. The formulation of claim 12, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate constitutes a maximum of about 0.1 weight percent of the formulation. constitutes a maximum of about 0.1 weight percent of the formulation. 14. De formulering van eis 1, waarin het eerste natriumpolyacrylaat bestaat uit natriumpolyacrylaat in water. natriumpolyacrylaat in water bestaat.14. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate consists of sodium polyacrylate in water. sodium polyacrylate consists of sodium polyacrylate in water. 15. De formulering van eis 1, waarin het eerste natriumpolyacrylaat bestaat uit een emulgerend polymeer.15. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate consists of an emulsifying polymer. 16. De formulering van eis 1, waarin het tweede natriumpolyacrylaat bestaat uit een natriumzout van polyacrylzuur.16. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate consists of a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. 17. De formulering van eis 1, waarin het tweede natriumpolyacrylaat oplosbaar is in water.17. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate is soluble in water. 18. De formulering van eis 1, waarin het parelmoerpigment ongeveer 0,5 gewichtsprocent tot ongeveer 1,0 gewichtsprocent van het pigment is. 1,0 gewichtsprocent van de formulering vormen.18. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the pearlescent pigment is from about 0.5 weight percent to about 1.0 weight percent of the pigment. 1.0 weight percent of the formulation. 19. De formulering van claim 1, waarin het boornitride ongeveer 0,5 wt.% tot ongeveer 1,0 wt.% van de formulering is.19. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the boron nitride is from about 0.5 wt% to about 1.0 wt% of the formulation. wt.% van de formulering is.wt.% of the formulation. 20. De formulering van claim 1, waarin het oppervlakteactieve systeem natriumstearoylglutamaat en polyglycerolglutamaat bevat. glutamaat en polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearaat bevat.20. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the surfactant system contains sodium stearoyl glutamate and polyglycerol glutamate. glutamate and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate. 21. De formulering van claim 1, waarin het oppervlakte-actieve systeem ongeveer 3,0 tot ongeveer 7,0 van de formulering. 1921. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the surface active system comprises about 3.0 to about 7.0 of the formulation. 19
NL2035477A 2023-02-20 2023-07-25 Eye cream formulation NL2035477B1 (en)

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