DE10004644B4 - Use of inulin derivatives as a thickener - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of carbohydrates as a thickener for solutions of surface-active substances, characterized in that derivatized oligofructosides are used which can be obtained by reacting inulins with (a) alkylating agents or (b) alkylene oxides and alkylating agents.

Description

Territory of invention

The invention is based on the Field of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations and relates to the use of new derivatives of inulin as a thickener.

State of technology

Acting in cosmetic preparations it is simplified to be more or less concentrated aqueous preparations surfactants Substances that also contain other ingredients, such as oil or May contain bioactives. On the part of the consumer there is a desire that these preparations be a have a viscosity corresponding to their intended use, which also while storage and especially not under the influence of heat or not significantly changed. The right viscosity can be very different: shampoos pose similar to manual dishwashing liquid essentially diluted aqueous solutions of Represent surfactants, their viscosity can best be described as "water-thin" without the addition of suitable thickeners can. Such a preparation is little for practical use suitable because economical dosing is not possible. Here you need the Addition of a thickening agent, which increases the viscosity of the preparation so high that one targeted dosing possible without achieving the opposite effect, after which the product only using physical To release violence from his reservoir is. With other preparations, such as creams, some high oil content have, the interest goes more in the direction of very high viscosities, because the product should be applied with the fingers.

Now are from the state of the art a variety of substances known for thickening of such surfactants Systems. In the simplest case, electrolytes, for example table salt, get into it or magnesium sulfate to be used, but with which it was determined Surfactant systems, such as, for example, alkyl oligoglucosides or secondary alkanesulfonates practically do not let thicken. Polyacrylates are widely used, but which have the disadvantage that they are neither biodegradable nor possible according to the trend follow nature-identical ingredients. From the latter perspective, for example natural Guars are much more likely to be considered, however their thickening effectiveness leaves with temperature storage considerably.

After the known thickeners state of the art all over have one or the other disadvantage, has the task of the present Invention then passed new thickeners for surfactants Systems especially for cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations or manual dishwashing detergents to disposal to provide which at the same time also difficult to thicken surfactant systems thicken, have a native, preferably vegetable raw material base, are biodegradable and constant even when stored at a high temperature viscosity to guarantee.

description the invention

The invention relates to Use of polymers as thickeners for solutions more surface active Substances whose characteristic is that derivatized fructose polymers are used, which by reacting inulins with a) alkylating agents or b) alkylene oxides and alkylating agents are available.

Surprisingly it was found that the inulin derivatives obtainable by alkoxylation and / or alkylation in excellent as a thickener for surface-active aqueous preparations, in particular for cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations as well as manual detergents are suitable. For example, both the viscosity of aqueous solutions of Alkyl oligoglucosides as well as secondary alkane sulfonates, both are considered difficult to thicken, even by adding small amounts of inulin derivatives reliable by several powers of ten, i.e. to values in the range of 5,000 to 50,000 mPas (Brookfield, 20 ° C, Spindle 1, 10 rpm) increased. A major advantage of inulin derivatives is that the viscosity increases also exist during storage, in particular also temperature storage remains and there is neither gelation nor phase separation.

inulins

Like starch, the inulins, such as inulin, nystose or kestose, are among the vegetable storage substances that are produced in large quantities by over 30,000 plants, preferably chicory and dahlias. Structurally, it is a mixture of linear fructose polymers (oligofructosides) that have terminal glucose groups and have an average degree of oligomerization in the range from 5 to 30, preferably around 15 (see the following figure):

Due to manufacturing can Commercial products such as Frutafit (Cosun) or Raftiline (Orafti) alongside higher ones Oligomers also contain glucose, fructose or sucrose. The The use of inulins is essentially in the area of food additives, for example as sweeteners or Prebiotics for Dairy products.

alkoxylated inulins

The alkoxylation of the inulins can in a manner known per se, i.e. the inulins are in Presence of alkaline catalysts such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, sodium methylate or potassium tert-butoxide Temperatures in the range of 50 to 150 ° C with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or their mixtures - in Random or block distribution - implemented, being autogenous pressures usually set from 1 to 5 bar. After the pressure drop ends the reaction products are relaxed and by adding mineral acids set a neutral pH. The amount of alkylene oxide used is little critical per se, but so many alkylene oxide groups be attached that the Oligomer is also given sufficient surface activity. As a result, can based on inulin 1 to 100 and preferably 25 to 75 equivalents Alkylene oxide can be added.

alkylated inulins

Suitable for the alkylation of inulin in particular classic alkylating agents, such as halogenated Hydroxypropylammonium- or 1,2-Epoxypropylammoniumsalze, which under the name "QUAB" are commercially available. Glycidol is also suitable. Another interesting one Possibility of inuline Converting them into derivatives with thickening properties consists in the implementation with halogenated trialkylamines, especially diethylaminoethyl halides such as diethylaminoethyl chloride (DEAE-Cl). The reaction scheme is shown in the figure below.

In addition to simple DEAE functionalities so-called tandem groups identify themselves through N-alkylation one already on the Inulin scaffolding bound DEAE group arise. This way, potential cationic centers built up, which interact with negatively charged surfaces, such as. Skin and hair play an important role. Usually these derivatives are prepared by basic alkylation, e.g. in water, organic solvents (e.g. isopropyl alcohol) or aqueous / alcoholic Mixtures. Based on the inulins, 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.5 to 5 equivalents (Eq) of the alkylating agent can be used. The choice of base is not critical, it is recommended to use 0.5 to 1 M sodium or potassium hydroxide solution to work. The alkylation can be carried out at temperatures in the range of 0 to 150 ° C, a temperature range from 20 to 100 and in particular 50 to 90 ° C has been found to be special proven advantageous. When the reaction is complete, the resulting aqueous and / or organic solutions advantageously neutralized by adding mineral acids and for example by ultrafiltration or diafiltration, reverse osmosis or similar Process desalted. Mostly colorless or slightly colored products are usually subsequently from the solvent freed and dried. Lyophilization is particularly suitable for this.

• 1. Propylenoxid und halogenierten Hydroxypropylammonium- oder 2,3-Epoxypropylammoniumsalzen;
• 2. Propylenoxid und halogenierten Trialkylaminen und/oder
• 3. Glycidol bzw. Glycidolderivaten (z.B. Glycidolethem) und halogenierten Trialkylaminen.

The alkoxylation and alkylation reaction steps can also be combined. Accordingly, preferred thickeners are, for example, reaction products of inulins

• 1. propylene oxide and halogenated hydroxypropylammonium or 2,3-epoxypropylammonium salts;
• 2. Propylene oxide and halogenated trialkylamines and / or
• 3. Glycidol or glycidol derivatives (eg glycidol ether) and halogenated trialkylamines.

The amount of inulin derivatives used is usually 0.1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5 and in particular 2 to 3 wt .-% - based on the means.

surfactants links

Suitable surface-active compounds whose aqueous preparations need to be thickened are anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants, the proportion of which in the compositions - that is to say cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations - is usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 is up to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfates, , Mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl asucate fats (alkyl oligoglucate), vegetable olate proteinate, alkyl oligoglucate glyphate, phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of non-ionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or especially glucoramide acid-based vegetable derivatives, , Polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, poly sorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, reference is made to relevant reviews, for example, J.Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, Tenside und Mineralöladditive ", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably Wheat protein base.

commercial applicability

The inulin derivatives to be used according to the invention can for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, shower baths, creams, Gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, Emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments serve. These funds can as further auxiliaries and additives, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, Consistency adjuster, additional Thickeners, superfatting agents, Stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, Phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, Deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, Swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), Hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like included.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids are, for example, oil bodies with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, Erucylm yristat, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucylerucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols are suitable (cf. DE 19756377 A1 ), especially dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ -Alcohols (eg Finsolv ^® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening test Products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

emulsifiers

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups in question:

• - Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms men in the alkyl group and alkylamines having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• - alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the Alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;
• - Addition products from 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide on castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• - Addition products from 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide on castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• - partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;
• - partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, Pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. Methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;
• - Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.
• - mono, Di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• - wool wax alcohols;
• - Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• - block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
• - polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
• - polyalkylene glycols such as
• - glycerine carbonate.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the average degree of alkoxylation of which is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are from DE 2024051 PS known as a refatting agent for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their manufacture and use are state of the art known. They are manufactured in particular by implementing Glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols from 8 to 18 Carbon atoms. In terms of of the glycoside residue applies that both Monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidic is bound to the fatty alcohol, as well as oligomeric glycosides a degree of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, the one for such technical products usual Is based on homolog distribution.

Typical examples of suitable ones Partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride as well as their technical mixtures, which are still minor from the manufacturing process May contain amounts of triglyceride. Are also suitable Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethylene oxide to the partial glycerides mentioned.

The sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, Sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, Sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, Sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, Sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquicinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, Sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, Sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, Sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, Sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, Sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Addition products are also suitable from 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to the above Sorbitan.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan ^® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan ^® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care ^® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina ^® ), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane ^® NL), Polyglyceryl -3 distearates (Cremophor ^® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul ^® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyimide-3-carboxylimide each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 C. Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

wobei R typischerweise für lineare aliphatische Kohlenwasserstoffreste mit 15 bis 17 Kohlenstoffatomen und bis zu 4 cis-Doppelbindungen steht. Als Beispiele für natürliche Lecithine seien die Kephaline genannt, die auch als Phosphatidsäuren bezeichnet werden und Derivate der 1,2-Diacyl-sn-glycerin-3-phosphorsäuren darstellen. Dem gegenüber versteht man unter Phospholipiden gewöhnlich Mono- und vorzugsweise Diester der Phosphorsäure mit Glycerin (Glycerinphosphate), die allgemein zu den Fetten gerechnet werden. Daneben kommen auch Sphingosine bzw. Sphingolipide in Frage.Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, waxes include natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, Sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the specialist world as phosphatidylcholines (PC) and follow the general formula

where R typically stands for linear aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals with 15 to 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds. Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behen acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency and thickeners

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg carbopols) ^® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene ^® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

superfatting

Substances can be used as superfatting agents such as lanolin and lecithin, and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, Monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter at the same time as foam stabilizers serve.

stabilizers

Metal salts can be used as stabilizers of fatty acids, such as. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400 ^® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as Luviquat ^® (BASF) , condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® ^® L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, for example amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine ^® / Sandoz), copolymers of Acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat ^® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as described for example in the FR 2252840 A as well as their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as Jaguar ^® CBS, Jaguar ^® C-17, Jaguar ^® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as Mirapol ^® A-15, Mirapol ^® AD-1, Mirapol ^® AZ-1 from Miranol.

As anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers come, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / Isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers as well optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosmetics & Toiletries Vo1. 108, May 1993, page 95ff.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable. A detailed An overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

• – 3-Benzylidencampher bzw. 3-Benzylidennorcampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher wie in der EP 0693471 B1 beschrieben;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylbenzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• – Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyl Triazon, wie in der EP 0818450 A1 beschrieben oder Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb^® HEB);
• – Propan-1,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;
• – Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decan-Derivate, wie in der EP 0694521 B1 beschrieben.

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) present at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as in the EP 0693471 B1 described;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylic acid, homomethyl salicylic acid;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as in the EP 0818450 A1 described or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ^® HEB);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as in the EP 0694521 B1 described.

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds as described in the DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Perfumery and Cosmetics 3 (1999), page 11ff.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, pro pyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides , Nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), and also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid , Phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid ), Folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and the like nd derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguated acid Trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Biogenic agents

Biogenic active substances are, for example Tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, Bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, Pseudoceramides, essential oils, To understand plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

deodorants and germicides

Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract body odors, mask them or eliminate them. Body odors arise by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, being uncomfortable smelling degradation products are formed. Accordingly included Deodorants Active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, Odor absorber or odor masker act. As anti-germ agents, all are basically against gram-positive Suitable bacteria-effective substances, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and their salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chloro phenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, Clove oil, Menthol, mint oil, Farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, Glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen ^® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

Suitable as odor absorbers are substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, the main constituent of a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as r. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils include, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example Benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols anethole, citronellell Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, (β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate, alone or in mixtures.

• – adstringierende Wirkstoffe,
• – Ölkomponenten,
• – nichtionische Emulgatoren,
• – Coemulgatoren,
• – Konsistenzgeber,
• – Hilfsstoffe wie z. B. Verdicker oder Komplexierungsmittel und/oder
• – nichtwässrige Lösungsmittel wie z. B. Ethanol, Propylenglykol und/oder Glycerin.

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

• - astringent active ingredients,
• - oil components,
• - nonionic emulsifiers,
• - co-emulsifiers,
• - consistency generator,
• - auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
• - non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

• – entzündungshemmende, hautschützende oder wohlriechende ätherische Öle,
• – synthetische hautschützende Wirkstoffe und/oder
• – öllösliche Parfümöle.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are, for example, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds, for. B. with 1,2-propylene glycol. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds, e.g. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Examples of such oil-soluble auxiliaries are:

• - anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,
• - synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
• - oil-soluble perfume oils.

usual water-soluble additions are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble Thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example Chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary Cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and the like Links.

Antidandruff agents

Suitable antidandruff active ingredients are piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinonmonoethanolaminsalz) Baypival ^® (Climbazole), ketoconazole ^®, (4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyhexoxate, Sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylene acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon ^® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, as swelling agents for aqueous phases, Clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) serve. Other suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R.Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Insect repellents

As insect repellents come N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate in question

Self tanner and depigmentation

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. As tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of melanin and Find application in depigmenting agents, for example Arbutin, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) in question.

hydrotropes

• – Glycerin;
• – Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycol, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Hexylenglycol sowie Polyethylenglycole mit einem durchschnittlichen Molekulargewicht von 100 bis 1.000 Dalton;
• – technische Oligoglyceringemische mit einem Eigenkondensationsgrad von 1,5 bis 10 wie etwa technische Diglyceringemische mit einem Diglyceringehalt von 40 bis 50 Gew.-%;
• – Methyolverbindungen, wie insbesondere Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit;
• – Niedrigalkylglucoside, insbesondere solche mit 1 bis 8 Kohlenstoffen im Alkylrest, wie beispielsweise Methyl- und Butylglucosid;
• – Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Sorbit oder Mannit,
• – Zucker mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose;
• – Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin;
• – Dialkoholamine, wie Diethanolamin oder 2-Amino-1,3-propandiol.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerin;
• - Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• - Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable as preservatives for example phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the others listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance Classes.

perfume oils

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl benzylatepylpropionate, stally. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones, α-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols Anethol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Isoeugenol, Geraniol, Linalool, Phenylethylalko hol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linina-lool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, cycloalanol oil, cycloaluminum oil, orange lanolin oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil , Muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate, alone or in mixtures.

dyes

Suitable dyes for cosmetic purposes and approved substances, such as those used in the publication "Cosmetic Colorant "of the dye commission the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, S.81-106 are put together. These dyes are usually used in concentrations from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes respectively; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples

Example 1. 10 g (60 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline HP ^®, Fa.Orafti) were dissolved in 15 ml of 1 M sodium hydroxide solution and 150 ml of water and transferred to a stirred autoclave. The reactor was then charged with 264.3 g (100 eq) of ethylene oxide and heated at 80 ° C. for 3 hours, an autogenous pressure of 3 bar being established. The reactor was then depressurized, the reaction mixture was cooled to 20 ° C., diluted with water and adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid. After the salts had been separated off by dialysis and freeze-drying, the ethoxylated inulin was obtained as a powder.

Example 2. 20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline HP ^®) dissolved in 30 ml of 50 wt .-% sodium hydroxide solution were introduced into a stirred apparatus dissolved within 30 (Eq 2) min in portions with 210.3 g of 3-chloro -2-hydroxypropyldimethyldodecylammonium chloride (Quab ^® 342, Degussa) was added and the mixture was stirred at 60 ° C. for 4 h. The reaction mixture was then cooled to 20 ° C., diluted with water and adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid. After the salts had been separated off by dialysis and freeze-drying, the quaternized inulin was obtained as a beige powder.

Example 3. 50 g (300 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline HP ^®) were dissolved in 75 ml of 1 M sodium hydroxide solution and transferred to a stirred autoclave. The reactor was then charged with 17.8 g (1.0 eq) of propylene oxide and heated at 80 ° C. for 3 hours, an autogenous pressure of 3 bar being established. Thereafter, the reactor was depressurized and transferred to the propoxylated inulin in a stirred apparatus, combined with an additional 30 ml of 1 M sodium hydroxide solution and 130.8 g (0.5 g) of 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl dimethyldodecyl (Quab ^® 342, Degussa) and at 80 ° C stirred for a further 3 h. The reaction mixture was then cooled to 20 ° C., diluted with water and adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid. After the salts had been separated off by dialysis and freeze-drying, the propoxylated and quaternized inulin was obtained as a beige powder.

Example 4. 20 g (120 mmol) inulin (Frutafit IQ, Cosun) were dissolved in 60 ml of 0.5 M sodium hydroxide solution and 15 min at 20 ° C touched. Subsequently 21.2 g (1 eq) of diethylaminoethyl chloride (DEAE-Cl) were added, to 80 ° C heated and stirred for a further 5 h, being a brownish solution originated. The reaction mixture was cooled to 20 ° C by adding hydrochloric acid pH = 7 and the salts separated by dialysis. The The alkylation product was colored light brown, was within water pH range 4 to 9 clearly soluble and compatible with surfactants.

Example 5 Analogously to Example 4 was added 30 g (180 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline HP ^®) dissolved in 20 ml of water and 40 ml of 50 wt .-% sodium hydroxide solution. Then 31.6 g (1 eq) of DEAE-Cl were added, heated to 80 ° C. and stirred for a further 5 h, during which a brownish solution resulted. The reaction mixture was cooled to 20 ° C., adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid, and the salts were separated off by dialysis. The alkylation product was colored light brown, was clearly soluble in water within a pH range from 4 to 9 and was compatible with surfactants.

Example 6 Analogously to Example 4 was added 20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline HP ^®) dissolved in 20 ml of water and 40 ml of 50 wt .-% sodium hydroxide solution. Then 42.3 g (2 eq) of DEAE-Cl were added, heated to 80 ° C. and stirred for a further 5 h, during which a brownish solution was formed. The reaction mixture was on Cooled 20 ° C, adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid and the salts separated by dialysis. The crystalline alkylation product was colored light brown, was opaque in water within a pH range from 4 to 9 and was compatible with surfactants.

Example 7 Analogously to Example 4 was added 20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline HP ^®) dissolved in 20 ml of water and 10 ml of 50 wt .-% sodium hydroxide solution. Then 10.6 g (0.5 eq) of DEAE-Cl were added, heated to 80 ° C. and stirred for a further 5 h, during which a brownish solution was formed. The reaction mixture was cooled to 20 ° C., adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid, and the salts were separated off by dialysis. The crystalline alkylation product was colored light brown, was clearly soluble in water within a pH range from 4 to 9 and was compatible with surfactants.

Example B. 20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline ^® HP) were dissolved in 250 ml of water and 10 ml of 50% strength by weight sodium hydroxide solution were added. The mixture was heated to 50 ° C., 9.1 g of glycidol were added within 1 h and the mixture was stirred for a further 2 h. 21.2 g (1 eq) of DEAE-Cl were then added, the mixture was heated to 80 ° C. and stirred for a further 5 h, a brownish solution being formed. The reaction mixture was cooled to 20 ° C., adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid, and the salts were separated off by dialysis. The crystalline alkylation product was colored light brown, was clearly soluble in water within a pH range from 4 to 9 and was compatible with surfactants.

Example 9. 50 g (300 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline HP ^®) were dissolved in 75 ml of 1 M sodium hydroxide solution and transferred to a stirred autoclave. The reactor was then charged with 35.5 g (2.0 eq) of propylene oxide and heated at 80 ° C. for 3 hours, an autogenous pressure of 3 bar being established. The reactor was then depressurized and the propoxylated inulin was transferred to a stirring apparatus, a further 50 ml of 50% strength by weight sodium hydroxide solution and 52.7 g (1.0 Eq) of DEAE-Cl were added and the mixture was stirred at 80 ° C. for a further 3 h. The reaction mixture was then cooled to 20 ° C., diluted with water and adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid. After the salts had been separated off by dialysis and freeze-drying, the propoxylated and quaternized inulin was obtained as a beige powder.

Example 10. 20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline HP ^®) were introduced into a stirred apparatus, dissolved in 30 ml of 1 M sodium hydroxide solution, over 20 minutes in portions with 36.6 g of a 65 wt .-% solution of 3-chloro -2-hydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride (Quab ^® 188, Degussa) was added and stirred at 60 ° C. 2 10 g of 50% strength by weight sodium hydroxide solution and 10.6 g (1 eq) of DEAE-Cl were then added and the mixture was stirred at 80 ° C. for a further 3 h. The reaction mixture was then cooled to 20 ° C., diluted with water and adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid. After the salts had been separated off by dialysis and freeze-drying, the propoxylated and quaternized inulin was obtained as a beige powder.

In Table 1 below specified a number of formulation examples.

Table 1 Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)

Table 1 Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - continued

Table 1 Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - continued 2

Table 1 Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - continued 3

Claims (10)

Use of carbohydrates as a thickener for solutions of surface-active substances, characterized in that derivatized oligofructosides are used which can be obtained by reacting inulins with (a) alkylating agents or (b) alkylene oxides and alkylating agents. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that that you use ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. Use according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized characterized in that reaction products of inulin with halogenated Hydroxypropylammonium or 2,3-Epoxypropylammoniumsalzen ("QUAB's") uses. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that reaction products of inulins with halogenated trialkylamines. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that reaction products of inulins with glycidol. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that reaction products of inulins with propylene oxide and halogenated hydroxypropylammonium or 2,3-epoxypropylammonium salts starts. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that reaction products of inulins with propylene oxide and halogenated trialkylamines. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that reaction products of inulins with glycidol or glycidol derivatives and halogenated trialkylamines starts. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the inulin derivatives as thickeners for cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations or manual detergents starts. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the inulin derivatives in quantities from 0.1 to 10% by weight on the means - uses.