DE10004644A1 - Thickening of surfactant solutions using biodegradable derivatized oligofructoses obtained by alkoxylation and alkylation of inulines - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of thickeners for surfactant solutions of derivatized oligofructoses obtained by reaction of inulines with alkylene oxides and alkylating agents.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations and relates to the use of new derivatives of inulin as a thickener.

State of the art

Cosmetic preparations are, to put it simply, more or less con centered aqueous preparations of surface-active substances, which also contain other ingredients, such as oil bodies or bioactives. The consumer wishes to that these preparations have a viscosity corresponding to their intended use not or not during storage and especially also under the influence of heat changed significantly. The suitable viscosity can vary widely: provide shampoos similar to manual dishwashing detergents, essentially highly diluted aqueous solutions from Tensi represent the viscosity of which is most appropriate with "water-thin" without the addition of suitable thickeners can be described. Such a preparation is not very suitable for practical use because economical dosing is not possible. Here it is necessary to add a thickener, wel ches increases the viscosity of the preparation so that a targeted dosage is possible without the to achieve the opposite effect, according to which the product only by using physical force to be released from its storage vessel. For other preparations, such as creams, the have a high oil content, there is more interest in the direction of very high viscosities, since the product should be applied with the fingers.

A large number of substances which are suitable for thickening are now known from the prior art of such surface-active systems. In the simplest case, electrolytes arrive, for example as common salt or magnesium sulfate, but with which certain surfactant systems, such as alkyl oligoglucosides or secondary alkanesulfonates practically not thicken. Polyacrylates are widespread, but they have the disadvantage that they are neither biodegradable  still follow the trend for ingredients that are as identical as possible to nature. From the latter point of view for example, natural guars are much more likely, but their thickening effectiveness leaves Temperature storage significantly after.

After the known thickeners of the prior art all over one way or another Disadvantage, the object of the present invention was to new thickeners tel for surfactant systems, especially for cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations or manu to provide all dishwashing detergents that are also difficult to thicken surfactants thicken theme, have a native, preferably vegetable raw material base, biodegradable and guarantee a constant viscosity even when stored in temperature.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to the use of polymers as thickeners for solutions surface-active substances, the hallmark of which is that one derivatized Fructosepo uses polymers which by reacting inulins with alkylene oxides and / or alkylating agents are available.

Surprisingly, it was found that those obtainable by alkoxylation and / or alkylation Inulin derivatives are excellent thickeners for surface-active aqueous preparations tions, in particular for cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations and manual dishwashing detergents are suitable. For example, the viscosity of both aqueous solutions of alkyl oligoglu cosides as well as secondary alkanesulfonates, both of which are difficult to thicken, already through Adding small amounts of the inulin derivatives reliably by several powers of ten, i. H. to values in Range increased from 5,000 to 50,000 mPas (Brookfield, 20 ° C, spindle 1, 10 rpm). An essential one Another advantage of inulin derivatives is that the viscosity increase, especially during storage in particular also temperature storage remains and neither a gelation nor a pha separation takes place.

Inuline

The inulins, like e.g. B. inulin, nystose or kestose, to the vegetable storage substances that are formed by over 30,000 plants, preferably chicory and dahlias in large quantities. Structurally, it is a mixture of linear fructose polymers (oligofruc toside), which have terminal glucose groups and an average degree of oligomerization in the range from 5 to 30, preferably around 15 (see the following figure):

Due to the manufacturing process, commercially available products such as Frutafit (Cosun) or In addition to higher oligomers, raftilines (Orafti) also contain glucose, fructose or sucrose. The The use of inulins is essentially in the field of food additives, for example as Sweeteners or prebiotics for dairy products.

Alkoxylated inulins

The alkoxylation of the inulins can be carried out in a manner known per se, i. H. the inulins are in Ge presence of alkaline catalysts such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, sodium me ethyl or potassium tert-butoxide at temperatures in the range from 50 to 150 ° C with ethylene oxide, propy lenoxid or mixtures thereof - in random or block distribution - implemented, with autogenous Usually set pressures from 1 to 5 bar. After the pressure drop has ended, the reacti products relaxed and adjusted to a neutral pH value by adding mineral acids. The amount of alkylene oxide used is in itself not very critical, but there should be as many alkylene oxide groups pen be attached that the oligomer is also given sufficient surface activity. Accordingly, 1 to 100 and preferably 25 to 75 equivalents of alkylene oxide, based on inulin be added.  

Alkylated inulins

Classic alkylating agents such as, for example, are particularly suitable for the alkylation of the inulins halogenated hydroxypropylammonium or 1,2-epoxypropylammonium salts sold under the designation "QUAB" are commercially available. Glycidol is also suitable. Another interesting one Possibility to convert Inuline into derivatives with thickening properties is the implementation with halogenated trialkylamines, especially diethylaminoethyl halides such as diethylamino ethyl chloride (DEAE-Cl). The reaction scheme is shown in the figure below.

In addition to simple DEAE functionalities, so-called tandem groups can also be identified, which result from N-alkylation of a DEAE group already bound to the inulin skeleton. To this In this way, potentially cationic centers are built up, which interact with negative charged surfaces, such as B. skin and hair play an important role. Usually he follows the preparation of these derivatives by basic alkylation, for example in water, organic Solvents (e.g. isopropyl alcohol) or aqueous / alcoholic mixtures. Related to the inuline 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.5 to 5 equivalents (Eq) of the alkylating agent can be used. The choice of the base is not very critical, it is recommended, for example, with 0.5 to 1 M sodium or Potassium hydroxide solution to work. The alkylation can take place at temperatures in the range from 0 to 150.degree be carried out, a temperature range of 20 to 100 and in particular 50 to 90 ° C has proven particularly advantageous, however. After completion of the reaction, the resulting aq Rigen and / or organic solutions advantageously neutralized by adding mineral acids and, for example, by ultrafiltration or diafiltration, reverse osmosis or comparable processes salt. The mostly colorless or weakly colored products are then usually from Solvent freed and dried. Lyophilization is particularly suitable for this.  

The alkoxylation and alkylation reaction steps can also be combined. Accordingly, preferred thickeners are, for example, reaction products of inulins with

• 1. propylene oxide and halogenated hydroxypropylammonium or 2,3-epoxypropylammonium salts;
• 2. Propylene oxide and halogenated trialkylamines and / or
• 3. Glycidol or glycidol derivatives (e.g. glycidol ethers) and halogenated trialkylamines.

The amount of inulin derivatives used is generally 0.1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5 and in particular special 2 to 3 wt .-% - based on the agent.

Surface active compounds

Anio. Come as surface-active compounds whose aqueous preparations need to be thickened niche, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants in question, their proportion on the agents - i.e. cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations - usually around 1 is up to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkylethersul fonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ethers sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfo succinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, Fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as acyl lactylates, acyl tar trates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (esp special vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. Unless the anionic If surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can be conventional, but preferably one have narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohols alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycols ether, fatty amine polyglycol ether, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, if appropriate partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, Pro tein hydrolyzates (especially vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugars esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants polyglycol ether ket ten contained, these can be a conventional, but preferably a restricted Ho have molog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride and ester quats, in particular re quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterioni surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazo linium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known  Links. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, see relevant Über visual works, for example J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J. Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, surfactants and mineral oil additives", Thie me Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, d. H. Particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, Mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, Fatty acid glutamates, olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, Al kylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based of wheat proteins.

Industrial applicability

The inulin derivatives to be used according to the invention can be used to produce cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, Bubble baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, Emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments are used. These funds can as further auxiliary substances and additives, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, additional thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, Waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodo ranties, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self browners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives tel, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

Oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ -Carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, My ristylerucat, cetyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, partisan groups lerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl, stearyl, Stearylisostearat, stearyl, stearyl, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearylo leat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Beheny lisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl, Erucylstea rat, erucyl, erucyl , Erucyl behenate and erucylerucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols are suitable (cf. DE 197 56 377 A1 ), in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di - / Triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. B. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, Ringöffnungspro products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, Siliciummethiconty pen etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as . B. like squalane, Squa len or dialkylcyclohexane.

Emulsifiers

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• - Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear Fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 up to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• - Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;
• - Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• - Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• - Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched ten fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 Koh lenstoffatomen and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
• - Partial esters of polyglycerin (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene gly col (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. Sor bit), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. Cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their Adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;  
• - Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 11 65 574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerin or polyglycerin.
• - Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their Salts;
• - wool wax alcohols;
• - Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• - Block copolymers e.g. B. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
• - polymer emulsifiers, e.g. B. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
• - Polyalkylene glycols as well
• - glycerine carbonate.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 20 24 051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art Technology known. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosac charidene with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside residue that Both monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bound to the fatty alcohol is suitable, as well as oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, one for such technical Products based on the usual homolog distribution.

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxy stearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, Oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid moglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric diglyce rid, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, the subordinate may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Also suitable are addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethylene oxide onto the par tialglycerides.  

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, Sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, Sorbi tanmonoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, Sor bitansesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, Sor bitansesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbi tandicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan tri maleate and their technical mixtures. Addition products from 1 to 30 are also suitable, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to the sorbitan esters mentioned.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehy muls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methyl glucose distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate isostearates and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the ge optionally mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid re, behenic acid and the like.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic ten-side refers to those surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylam monium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyl -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are also ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acyl aminoethyl aminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Natural waxes, such as, for example, B. candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin wax; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as. B. Po lyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecitol into those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the art as phosphatidylcholines (PC) and follow the general formula

where R typically for linear aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals with 15 to 17 carbon atoms men and up to 4 cis double bonds. The cephalins are examples of natural lecithins called, which are also called phosphatidic acids and derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3- represent phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerin (glycerol phosphates), which are generally related to the fet ten can be expected. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.  

Pearlescent waxes

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol di stearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stea rinic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances like for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which in total min have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearin acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 Carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 Carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency generator and thickener

The main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fat acids into consideration. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or is preferred Fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccha ride, especially xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of Fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sig ma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Seppic Sepigel types; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), Polyacry lamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated Fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethy lolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well Electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

Overfat

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxy can be used as superfatting agents lated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid al kanolamides are used, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers.  

Stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

Polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. B. a qua ternated hydroxyethyl cellulose, available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol is, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products from Poly glycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxy propyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as. B. amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyla minohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g. B. described in the FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives as in for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products Dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as. B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 der Miranol company.

Vinyla, for example, comes as anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / iso bornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, un cross-linked and polyols cross-linked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and, if appropriate, derivatized Cellulose ethers and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cos metics & Toiletries Vol. 108, May 1993, page 95 ff.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or al alkyl modified silicone compounds that are both liquid and resinous at room temperature can lie. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones, are also suitable  with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated Silicates. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found at Todd et al. in cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

Under UV light protection factors are to be understood, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to give off heat like that. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-Methylbenzy liden) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- 2-octyl (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamate pro pylester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octo crylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbene methyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-me thoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl tria zone as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g. B.1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5- sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters wise 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 197 12 033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned come for this Purpose also insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium as well as their mixtures. As salts Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are in the form of pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics used. The particles should preferably have an average diameter of less than 100 nm have between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. You can ... a have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have a have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape other than the spherical shape. The Pig elements can also be surface treated, i. H. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical Examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones and, in particular, trials are the main hydrophobic coating agents koxyoctylsilane or Simethicone in question. So-called Mi are preferred in sunscreens Cro- or nanopigments used. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further Suitable UV light protection filters are in the overview by P. Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Perfumery and Cosmetics 3 (1999), page 11 ff.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Auro thioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoxim , Homocysteine sulfoximine, Butionin sulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoxim in) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lac toferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives ( e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α -Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, man nose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivative ate (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (z. B. stilbene oxide, trans-style benoxid) and the inventive derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active ingredients are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, Ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acid ren, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes to understand.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants (body deodorants) counteract, mask or cover up body odors they do. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling degradation products are formed. Accordingly, Deodo included rantien Active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or Ge act as a cover. As a germ-inhibiting agent, all are basically against gram-positive Bak terien effective substances suitable such. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4- Chlorphenyl) -N '- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 4- Chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexi din, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, Menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol mo nolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. salicylic acid-n- octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. This is before preferably around trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular  Triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit the Enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances that act as esterase inhibitors sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as lanosterol, cholesterol, Campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipine acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarb non-acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

Suitable as odor absorbers are substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and are widely used can hold on. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus reduce them also their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes remain unaffected sen. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. For example, they contain as The main ingredient is a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or a special, largely odorless Fragrances known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for. B. extracts of labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or par act as odor maskers for, in addition to their function as odor maskers, the deodorants their respective Give fragrance. Perfume oils include, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic table fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, Fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and bal seeds. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Ty Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, keto type ne, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. Ben cyanoacetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example Benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, Citronellal, Citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, too the ketones e.g. B. the Jonone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, belong to the hydrocarbons mainly the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different scents are preferred substances that together create an appealing fragrance. Essential oils also low Rer volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfume oils, for. B. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, Vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citro nenoil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β- Damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP,  Evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

• - astringent active ingredients,
• - oil components,
• - nonionic emulsifiers,
• - co-emulsifiers,
• - consistency giver,
• - auxiliaries such. B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
• - non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. B. aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex connections z. B. with propylene glycol-1,2. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlo crude hydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, antiperspirants can contain customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries in smaller amounts. Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. B. be:

• - anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,
• - synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
• - oil-soluble perfume oils.

Usual water-soluble additives are e.g. B. preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH value Adjusting means, e.g. B. buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, e.g. B. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as B. xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.  

Film maker

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chito san, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Anti-dandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4- dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, selenium disulfide, Sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyhexylate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethano lamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum minium pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.

Swelling agent

Montmorillonite, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl can be used as swelling agents for aqueous phases modified carbopol types (Goodrich) are used. Other suitable polymers or swelling agents can the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toil. 108 95 (1993).

Insect repellents

N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetyla are used as insect repellents minopropionate in question.

Self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. As tyrosine inhibitors ver the formation of melanin prevent and find application in depigmenting agents, for example arbutin, kojic acid, Coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in question.  

Hydrotrope

To improve the flow behavior, hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerin;
• Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, Hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• - Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, Pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as wise methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

Preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, Pentanediol or sorbic acid and those listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance other substance classes.

Perfume oils

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural Fragrance substances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, Calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon,  Lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and bal seeds (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Furthermore animal raw come substances in question, such as civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds gen are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-Bu tylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, Benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzylsa licylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes z. B. the linear Alka nals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone, α-isomethylionon and Me thylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, pheny ethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and bal same. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances that work together generate an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, mostly as an aro Mac components are used as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, Lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanu mole, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, Citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, Lina lool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, Allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, Cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures gene, used.

Dyes

As dyes, the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used be used, such as the dye in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are put together. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the entire mixture used.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight on the middle - amount. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes gene; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.  

Examples example 1

10 g (60 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline® HP, from Orafti) were dissolved in 15 ml of 1 M sodium hydroxide solution and 150 ml Dissolved water and transferred to a stirred autoclave. The reactor was then charged with 264.3 g (100 eq) ethylene oxide and heated for 3 h at 80 ° C, with an autogenous pressure of 3 bar set. The reactor was then depressurized, the reaction mixture was cooled to 20 ° C. with water water diluted and adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid. After separating the salts with The ethoxylated inulin was obtained as a powder by dialysis and freeze-drying.

Example 2

20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline® HP) were placed in a stirring apparatus, in 30 ml 50% by weight sodium hydroxide solution dissolved, in portions within 30 min with 210.3 g (2 eq) 3-chloro-2- hydroxypropyldimethyldodecylammonium chloride (Quab® 342, Degussa) added and at 60 ° C for 4 h touched. The reaction mixture was then cooled to 20 ° C, diluted with water and adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid. After the salts have been separated off by dialysis and Freeze drying gave the quaternized inulin as a beige powder.

Example 3

50 g (300 mmol) inulin (Raftiline® HP) were dissolved in 75 ml of 1 M sodium hydroxide solution and in egg transferred to a stirred autoclave. The reactor was then charged with 17.8 g (1.0 eq) of propylene oxide opened and heated for 3 h at 80 ° C, an autogenous pressure of 3 bar. After that was the reactor is depressurized and the propoxylated inulin is transferred to a stirring apparatus with a further 30 ml 1 M sodium hydroxide solution and 130.8 g (0.5 g) 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyldimethyldodecylammonium chloride (Quab® 342, Degussa) were added and the mixture was stirred at 80 ° C. for a further 3 h. The reaction mixture turned on finally cooled to 20 ° C, diluted with water and to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid set. After the salts had been separated off by dialysis and freeze-drying, the propoxylated and quaternized inulin as a beige powder.

Example 4

20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Frutafit IQ, Cosun) were dissolved in 60 ml of 0.5 M sodium hydroxide solution and stirred for 15 min at 20 ° C. Then 21.2 g (1 eq) of diethylaminoethyl chloride (DEAE-Cl) added, heated to 80 ° C and stirred for a further 5 h, resulting in a brownish solution. The Reak tion mixture was cooled to 20 ° C, adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid and the Salts separated by dialysis. The alkylation product was colored light brown, was inner in water half a pH range from 4 to 9 clearly soluble and compatible with surfactants.

Example 5

Analogously to Example 4, 30 g (180 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline® HP) were dissolved in 20 ml of water and mixed with 40 ml of 50 wt .-% sodium hydroxide solution. Then 31.6 g (1 eq) of DEAE-Cl were added sets, heated to 80 ° C and stirred for a further 5 h, resulting in a brownish solution. The Reacti on mixture was cooled to 20 ° C, adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid and the  Salts separated by dialysis. The alkylation product was colored light brown, was inner in water half a pH range from 4 to 9 clearly soluble and compatible with surfactants.

Example 6

Analogously to Example 4, 20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline® HP) were dissolved in 20 ml of water and mixed with 40 ml of 50 wt .-% sodium hydroxide solution. Then 42.3 g (2 eq) of DEAE-Cl were added sets, heated to 80 ° C and stirred for a further 5 h, resulting in a brownish solution. The Reacti on mixture was cooled to 20 ° C, adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid and the Salts separated by dialysis. The crystalline alkylation product was colored light brown, was in what water within a pH range of 4 to 9 opaque and compatible with surfactants.

Example 7

Analogously to Example 4, 20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline® HP) were dissolved in 20 ml of water and mixed with 10 ml of 50% by weight sodium hydroxide solution. Then 10.6 g (0.5 eq) of DEAE-Cl added, heated to 80 ° C and stirred for a further 5 h, resulting in a brownish solution. The Reak tion mixture was cooled to 20 ° C, adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid and the Salts separated by dialysis. The crystalline alkylation product was colored light brown, was in what water within a pH range of 4 to 9 clearly soluble and compatible with surfactants.

Example 8

20 g (120 mmol) inulin (Raftiline® HP) were dissolved in 250 ml water and with 10 ml 50 wt .-% Sodium hydroxide solution added. The mixture was heated to 50 ° C, within 9.1 hours with 9.1 g Glycidol added and stirred for a further 2 h. 21.2 g (1 eq) of DEAE-Cl were then added Heated 80 ° C and stirred for a further 5 h, a brownish solution being formed. The reaction mixture was cooled to 20 ° C, adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid and the salts by Dialysis separated. The crystalline alkylation product was colored light brown, was within water pH range 4 to 9 clearly soluble and compatible with surfactants.

Example 9

50 g (300 mmol) inulin (Raftiline® HP) were dissolved in 75 ml of 1 M sodium hydroxide solution and in egg transferred to a stirred autoclave. The reactor was then charged with 35.5 g (2.0 eq) of propylene oxide opened and heated for 3 h at 80 ° C, an autogenous pressure of 3 bar. After that was the reactor is depressurized and the propoxylated inulin is transferred to a stirring apparatus with a further 50 ml 50% by weight sodium hydroxide solution and 52.7 g (1.0 eq) DEAE-Cl were added and the mixture was stirred at 80 ° C. for a further 3 h. The reaction mixture was then cooled to 20 ° C, diluted with water and by Zu administration of hydrochloric acid adjusted to pH = 7. After the salts have been separated off by dialysis and freezing drying, the propoxylated and quaternized inulin was obtained as a beige powder.

Example 10

20 g (120 mmol) of inulin (Raftiline® HP) were placed in a stirring apparatus, in 30 ml 1 M sodium hydroxide solution dissolved, in portions within 20 min with 36.6 g of a 65% by weight solution 3- Chlorine-2-hydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium bromide (Quab® 188, Degussa) was added and at 60 ° C for 2 h touched. 10 g of 50% strength by weight sodium hydroxide solution and 10.6 g (1 eq) of DEAE-Cl were then added  and stirred at 80 ° C for a further 3 h. The reaction mixture was then cooled to 20 ° C. diluted with water and adjusted to pH = 7 by adding hydrochloric acid. After separation of the The propoxylated and quaternized inulin became beige by means of dialysis and freeze-drying Get powder.

A number of formulation examples are given in Table 1 below.  

Table 1

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)

Table 1

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - continued

Table 1

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - continued 2

Table 1

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) - continued 3

Claims (10)

1. Use of carbohydrates as a thickener for solutions of surface-active substances, characterized in that derivatized oligofructosides are used, which can be obtained by reacting inulins with alkylene oxides and / or alkylating agents. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that reaction products of Inulin with ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is used. 3. Use according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that implementation inulin with halogenated hydroxypropylammonium or 2,3-epoxypropyl uses ammonium salts ("QUAB's"). 4. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that Reaction products of inulins with halogenated trialkylamines. 5. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that one Reaction products of inulins with glycidol. 6. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that Reaction products of inulins with propylene oxide and halogenated hydroxypropylammonium or 2,3-epoxypropylammonium salts. 7. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that Reaction products of inulins with propylene oxide and halogenated trialkylamines. 8. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that Reaction products of inulins with glycidol or glycidol derivatives and halogenated trialky laminates. 9. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that one cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations or manual detergent thickened. 10. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the derivatized fructose polymers in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the composition, starts.