DE10044662A1 - Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition e.g. useful for skin cleansing or acne treatment, comprise salicylic acid, alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides and alkyl ether sulfates - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprises salicylic acid and/or its derivatives, alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, alkyl ether sulfates and optionally fatty acid partial glycerides.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention relates to pharmaceutical and / or cosmetic preparations containing (a) Salicylic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt or derivative thereof, (b) alkyl and / or Alkenyl oligoglycosides, and (c) alkyl ether sulfates.

State of the art

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing salicylic acid, for cleaning and care of human skin and / or for the treatment of diseases such. B. Acne used belong to the prior art (e.g. EP 0987011; WO 95/13048; WO 98/33471; U.S. 4,608,370; 5,296,476; 4,318,907). They usually contain one or more surfactants Substances, in particular based on surfactants, such as anionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactants. Other preparations contain high concentrations of alcohols (US 3,265,571; US 4,608,370) such. B. isopropyl alcohol or ethanol, which dry out the skin, irritation can produce and have only a low viscosity. This currently exists on the market So far unsatisfied interest in preparations that have a large amount of salicylic acid on the skin deposit and at the same time have a clear appearance, prevent the skin from drying out, have good dermatological compatibility with high product stability and foamed can be.

The complex object of the invention was therefore cosmetic containing salicylic acid and or to provide pharmaceutical preparations which contain high amounts of Deposit salicylic acid on the skin, have a good cleansing effect, drying out the Prevent skin or moisturize dry skin, have good foam or foaming power and have good dermatological compatibility with high product stability. Furthermore if they can be formulated as clear as well as cloudy preparations, their Viscosity can be varied over a wide range.  

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing

• a) salicylic acid and / or its derivatives,
• b) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• c) alkyl ether sulfates and optionally
• d) fatty acid partial glycerides.

Surprisingly, it was found that alkyl and / or alkylene oligoglycosides and alkyl ethers Preparations containing sulfates contain a high proportion of the salicylic acid contained therein (hereinafter The term salicylic acid is used both for the free acid, its salts and its derivatives used) can deposit on the skin during use, via a lowering of the pH can be increased even further. In addition, these preparations have a good one Cleaning effect, prevent the skin from drying out or moisturize dry skin and have good dermatological compatibility with excellent product stability. The Stability is also not affected by the addition of acids, although by lowering the Experience has shown that a pH of a hydrolysis of the alkyl ether sulfates would be expected. Furthermore they have good foam or foaming power and high viscosity. The viscosity The preparations according to the invention can be varied over a wide range and they can optionally formulated as clear and cloudy preparations.

Salicylic acids and / or their derivatives

Salicylic acid (I) and its derivatives such as As sodium salicylate, potassium salicylate or also 4-aminosalicylic acid, 5-aminosalicylic acid or the compounds disclosed in EP 0 987 011 A1, to which express reference is hereby made, can be used in the preparations according to the invention due to their pharmacological properties.

Salicylic acid is preferred for the preparations according to the invention. Those are particularly preferred readily water-soluble salts of salicylic acid such as sodium salicylate or potassium salicylate.  

The preparations according to the invention can contain the salicylic acid and / or its derivatives in quantities from 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.5 to 5 and in particular 2 to 2.5% by weight, based on the Preparation and calculated as a solid - included.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides which form component (b) are known nonionic surfactants which follow the formula (II),

R ¹ O- [G] _p (II)

in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant preparative organic chemistry processes. As a representative of the extensive literature, reference is made to the documents EP 0 301 298 A1 and WO 90/03977.

The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can differ from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbons derived atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycos side are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.

The index number p in the general formula (II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. H. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a ge given connection must always be an integer and above all assume the values p = 1 to 6 can, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically calculated value, which is mostly a fractional number.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization are preferred p used from 1.1 to 3.0.

From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose Degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and is in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.

The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capro alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.

Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3).

The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petro selinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C _12/14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 and lauryl glucoside are preferred.

The preparations according to the invention can contain the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides in amounts of 0.1 up to 50, preferably 0.5 to 20 and in particular 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the preparation and calculated as a solid - included.

alkyl ether

Alkyl ether sulfates ("ether sulfates") are known anionic surfactants which are produced on an industrial scale by SO ₃ - or chlorosulfonic acid (CSA) sulfation of fatty alcohol or oxo alcohol polyglycol ethers and subsequent neutralization. For the purposes of the invention, ether sulfates are considered which follow the formula (III)

R ² O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m SO ₃ X (III)

in which R ^{2 represents} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, m represents numbers from 1 to 10 and X represents an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. Typical examples are the sulfates of addition products with an average of 1 to 10 and in particular 2 to 5 mol ethylene oxide onto capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts. The ether sulfates can have both a conventional and a narrow homolog distribution. It is particularly preferred to use ether sulfates based on adducts of an average of 2 to 3 mol ethylene oxide with technical C _12/14 or C _12/18 coconut _fatty alcohol fractions in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts.

The preparations according to the invention can contain the alkyl ether sulfates in amounts of 0.1 to 50 preferably 0.5 to 20 and in particular 0.5 to 10 wt .-% - based on the preparation and calculated as a solid - included.  

Fatty acid

For the selected fatty acid partial glycerides, which form the optional component (d), These are known substances that use the relevant preparative procedures organic chemistry can be produced. Fatty acid partial glycerides, i.e. H. usually technical Mixtures of mono- and diglycerides are usually obtained by transesterification of the corresponding ones Triglycerides obtained with glycerin or by targeted esterification of fatty acids. The separation of unreacted starting materials and the enrichment of monoglycerides in the mixtures is usually carried out by molecular distillation.

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, Hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid mono glyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid moglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, Linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, Erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, Citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide are also suitable the partial glycerides mentioned.

The partial glycerides of the present invention are preferably obtained by esterifying glycerin with oleic acid, isostearic acid, behenic acid or isobehenic acid. Is particularly preferred Glyceryl.

Isobehenic acid is the hardened monomer fraction used in dimerization of erucic acid. The invention includes the knowledge that technical mono- / diglyceride Mixtures in use have an even better dermatological tolerance than the pure ones Show monoglycerides. Accordingly, those technical fatty acid mono- / diglycerides are preferred that a molar ratio of mono- to diester in the range from 10:90 to 90:10 and in particular 80: 20 to 50: 50.

The preparations according to the invention can pre-partial glycerides in amounts of 0 to 30 preferably 0.25 to 10 and in particular 0.4 to 5 wt .-% - based on the preparation and calculated as a solid - included.

Industrial applicability

The preparations according to the invention are notable for a high cleaning action and good foaming or foaming power. They prevent the skin from drying out or moisturize dry skin and have good dermatological tolerance with a good one  Product stability. They have a high viscosity and can be both clear and cloudy Preparations are formulated.

A typical cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation is composed as follows:

• a) 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 2 to 2.5% by weight salicylic acid,
• b) 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 10% by weight Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• c) 0.1 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 10 wt .-% alkyl ether sulfates,
• d) 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.25 to 10% by weight and in particular 0.4 to 5% by weight Fatty acid,
• e) 0 to 30% by weight betaines and
• f) 0 to 10% by weight of polymers

with the proviso that the quantities indicated with water and possibly other auxiliary and Add additives to 100% by weight.

The preparations according to the invention, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths The, shower baths, shaving foams, gels and lotions can also be used as additional auxiliaries and additives mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, Superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, Phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, Antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, Tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, Perfume oils, dyes and the like included.

With the help of z. B. consistency agents, thickeners and polymers or mixtures thereof the preparations according to the invention are adjusted to a viscosity of 2000 to 25000, measured at 20 ° C using a Brookfield viscometer after 60 seconds (model RVF, spindle No. 5, 10 rpm).

Preparations with viscosities from 6000 to 22000, particularly preferably from 8000 to, are preferred 19000 mPa.s, in particular 11000 to 17000 mPa.s.  

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or Amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants are included, the proportion of which is usually at about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, Glycerin ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, glycerin ether sulfates, fat acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, Mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, Ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, Al kyloligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat ba sis) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, These have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polygly colether, fatty acid polyglycol ester, fatty acid amide polyglycol ether, fatty amine polyglycol ether, alkoxylated Triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolyzates (especially vegetable Wheat based products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and Amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a con conventional, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples for cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as that Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanol aminestersalze. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Both The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. In terms of structure and the production of these substances is based on relevant reviews, for example J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J. Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, surfactants and mineral oil additives", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217 directed. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. H. particularly skin-friendly surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, Fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, Ether carboxylic acids, fatty acid glucamides, alkyl amido betaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.  

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ - C ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl, behenyl myristate, behenyl, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl behenate and erucyl. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols (cf. DE 197 56 377 A1), in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / Di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids (cf. EP 97/00434), esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ -Dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids alcohol carbonates, such as B. Dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guer betcarbonate based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv ® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid reesters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as. B. like squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes in Be.

emulsifiers

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• - Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear Fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 up to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• - Ethoxylated analogues of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the Alk (en) yl;
• - Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• - Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• - Partial esters of sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms as well their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), Polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, Sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• - Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 11 65 574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerin or polyglycerin;
• - Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• - lanolin alcohol;
• - Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• - Block copolymers e.g. B. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
• - polymer emulsifiers, e.g. B. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
• - Polyalkylene glycols as well
• - glycerol.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide onto alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or onto castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the quantities of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out, corresponds. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 20 24 051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, Sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate,  Sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricin oleate, Sorbitan sesquicinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, Sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxy stearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, Sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, Sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dandrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, Sorbitan maleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Are also suitable Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethylene oxide to the above Sorbitan.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures.

Examples of other suitable polyol esters are those optionally with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide reacted mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, Coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. As a zwitterionic ten Side are those surface-active compounds that have at least one in the molecule carry quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group. Beson Other suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylam monium glycinates, for example the coco alkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-di methylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or Acyl group and the coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.

The one known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred Fatty acid amide derivative.

Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkylaminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine.

Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the Esterquats, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, especially before are moving.

Quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine esters are generally referred to as "esterquats" understood salt. These are known substances that are used according to the relevant metho that can be obtained from preparative organic chemistry, in this context reference is made to Inter national patent application WO 91/01295 (Henkel), according to which triethanolamine in Ge presence of hypophosphorous acid partially esterified with fatty acids, air is passed through and then quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or ethylene oxide. From German patent DE 43 08 794 C1 (Henkel) is also known a process for the preparation of solid ester quats, in which the Qua ternation of triethanolamine esters in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols alcohol, performs. Overviews on this topic are, for example, by R. Puchta et al. in Tens. Surf. Det., 30, 186 (1993), M. Brock in Tens. Surf. Det. 30, 394 (1993), R. Lagerman et al. in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc., 71, 97 (1994) and I. Shapiro in Cosm. Toil. 109, 77 (1994).

The quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts follow the formula (IV)

in which R ³ CO stands for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another for hydrogen or R ³ CO, R ⁶ for an alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q H- Group, m, n and p in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, q for numbers from 1 to 12 and X for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. Typical examples of ester quats which can be used in the sense of the inven tion are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures how they occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils. Technical C _12/18 coconut _fatty acids and in particular partially hardened C _16/18 tallow or palm fatty acids and elaidic acid-rich C _16/18 fatty acid cuts are preferably used. The fatty acids and the triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 to produce the quaternized esters. With regard to the application properties of the ester quats, an application ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1, has proven to be particularly advantageous. The preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical C _16/18 tallow or palm fatty acid (iodine number 0 to 40 ). From a technical point of view, quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (IV) have proven to be particularly advantageous in which R ³ CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R ⁴ for R ³ CO, R ⁵ for hydrogen, R ⁶ for a methyl group, m, n and p are 0 and X is methyl sulfate. Corresponding products are on the market under the Dehyquart® AU brand (Cognis Deutschland GmbH).

In addition to the quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (V) are also suitable as esterquats.

in which R ³ CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁴ for hydrogen or R ³ CO, R ⁷ and R ⁸ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

Finally, the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines of the formula (VI) should be mentioned as a further group of suitable ester quats,

in which R ³ CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁴ for hydrogen or R ³ CO, R ⁷ , R ⁸ and R ⁹ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

Furthermore, suitable ester quats are substances in which the ester bond is replaced by an amide bond and which preferably follow the formula (VII) based on diethylene triamine,

in which R ³ CO is an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or R ³ CO, R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and X is halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. Such amide ester quats are available on the market, for example, under the Incroquat® (Croda) brand.

Finally, suitable esterquats are also substances which are obtainable on the basis of ethoxylated castor oil or its hardening products and preferably follow the formula (VIII)

in which R ⁸ CO for a saturated and / or unsaturated ethoxylated hydroxyacyl radical having 16 to 22, preferably 18 carbon atoms and 1 to 50 oxyethylene units, A for a linear or branched alkylene radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R ⁹ , R ¹⁰ and R ¹¹ independently one another represents hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ^{12 represents} an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and X represents halogen, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

With regard to the selection of the preferred fatty acids and the optimal degree of esterification, the for examples mentioned for (IV) also for the esterquats of the formulas (V) to (VIII).

To produce the esterquats of the formulas (IV) to (VIII), both fatty acids and corresponding triglycerides are assumed. Such a process, which is representative of the corresponding prior art is to be mentioned in the European patent EP 0750606 B1 (Cognis) proposed. It is also possible to use the condensation of the alkanolamines the fatty acids in the presence of defined amounts of dicarboxylic acids, such as. B. oxalic acid, malonic acid, Succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, Azelaic acid, sebacic acid and / or dodecanedioic acid to perform. In this way it comes to a partially oligomeric structure of the ester quats, which is particularly evident when using Adipic acid can have a beneficial effect on the clear solubility of the products. Corresponding products  under the brand Dehyquart® D 6003 (Cognis Deutschland GmbH) are commercially available described, for example, in European Patent EP 0770594 B1 (Cognis). Usually the esterquats come in the form of 50 to 90 wt .-% alcoholic solutions on the market, which Can be easily diluted with water as needed.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Natural waxes, such as, for example, B. candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as. B. polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the art as phosphatidylcholines (PC) and follow the general formula

where R ^{13 is} typically linear aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals with 15 to 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds. Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol di stearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stea rinsäuremonoglycerid; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances like for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which in total min have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearin acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 Carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 Carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

The main consistency factors are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, fatty alcohol dispersions [KE3498, KE3598, Lanette® CO (C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol dispersion] and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. One is preferred Combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccha ride, especially xanthan gum, guar guar, hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 105) from Rhodia, Agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, furthermore hermolecular polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols as in for example pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with restricted homologues distribution as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride. Hydroxypropyl guar is preferred (Jaguar® HP 105).

superfatting

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxy can be used as superfatting agents lated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid al kanolamides are used, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers.  

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or Zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. Legs quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtained from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR 400® Lich, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products from Poly glycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxy propyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides (Gluadin® WQT (M)), polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as B. amodimethicones, copolymers of Adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of Acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, such as z. B. described in FR 2252840 A and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic Chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, Condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as e.g. B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16, Jaguar® C 162 from Celanese, Cosmedia Guar C 261 and C 261 N, quaternized Ammo nium salt polymers such. B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol. Quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl are preferred diallylammonium chloride and quaternized wheat polypeptides or a mixture thereof.

Examples of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate such as Antil® 120, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrole don / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked poly acrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrole don, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol. 108, May 1993, page 95ff. PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate is preferred.  

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or al alkyl modified silicone compounds that are both liquid and resinous at room temperature can lie. Simethicones, which are mixtures of Dimethico, are also suitable nen with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated Silicates. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found at Todd et al. in cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

Under UV light protection factors are to be understood, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to give off heat like that. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-Methylbenzy liden) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamate pro pylester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octo crylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbene methyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-me thoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl Triazon, as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters wise 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 197 12 033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course can also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the Derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. B. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with ester of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations with water-soluble ones are advantageous Filters such as B. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, Combined alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, there are also insoluble ones for this purpose Light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question. Examples of suitable ones Metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, zirconium, Silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and their mixtures. Silicates (talc), Barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts come in the form of the pigments used for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape However, it is also possible to use particles which are ellipsoidal or otherwise Have a shape that differs from the spherical shape. The pigments can too surface treated, d. H. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as, for. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). As Hydrophobic coating agents come primarily from silicones and especially trialkoxyoctylsilanes or Simethicone in question. So-called micro- or Nanopigments used. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. More suitable UV light protection filters are the overview by P. Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) as well Perfumery and Cosmetics 3 (1999), page 11ff.  

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Auro thioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoxim , Homocysteine sulfoximine, Butionin sulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximi n) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lac toferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, man nose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc vate (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (z. B. stilbene oxide, trans-style benoxid) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active ingredients are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, Ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acid ren, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes to understand.  

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract, mask or mask body odors eliminate them. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine Sweat, producing unpleasant smelling breakdown products. Accordingly included Deodorants active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, or odor absorbers Odor maskers act. As anti-germ agents, all are basically against gram-positive Suitable bacteria-effective substances, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, Chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, Clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, Glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. Salicylic acid n-octylamide or salicylic acid n-decylamide.

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. This is before preferably around trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and ins special triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit the Enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances that act as esterase inhibitors sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as lanosterol, cholesterol, Campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipine acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

Suitable as odor absorbers are substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and are widely used can hold on. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus reduce them also their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes remain unaffected sen. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. For example, they contain as The main ingredient is a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or a special, largely odorless Fragrances known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for. B. extracts of labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or par act as odor maskers for, in addition to their function as odor maskers, the deodorants their respective Give fragrance. Perfume oils include, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic table fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, Fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and bal  seed. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, Ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. Ben cyanoacetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example Benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, Citronellal, Citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, too the ketones e.g. B. the Jonone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, belong to the hydrocarbons mainly the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different scents are preferred substances that together create an appealing fragrance. Essential oils also low Rer volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfume oils, for. B. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, Vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citro nenoil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β-Damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

• - astringent active ingredients,
• - oil components,
• - nonionic emulsifiers,
• - Co-emulsifiers,
• - consistency factors,
• - auxiliaries such. B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
• - non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. B. aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex connections z. B. with propylene glycol-1,2. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlo crude hydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, conventional oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. B. be:

• - anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,
• - synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
• - oil-soluble perfume oils.

Usual water-soluble additives are e.g. B. preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agent, e.g. B. buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, e.g. B. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as B. xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chito san, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®, 4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4- dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-yl] methoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, Elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, Sulfuric ricinole polyhexylate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with Hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein Undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and Magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.  

swelling agent

Montmorillonite, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl can be used as swelling agents for aqueous phases modified carbopol types (Goodrich) are used. Other suitable polymers or swelling agents can the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Insect repellents

As insect repellents there are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetyl aminopropionate in question.

Self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. As tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of melanin prevent and find use in depigmenting agents, for example arbutin, Kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in question.

hydrotropes

To improve the flow behavior, hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerol;
• Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, Hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• - Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, Pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as wise methyl and butyl glucoside;  
• Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, Pentanediol or sorbic acid and those listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance other substance classes.

perfume oils

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. natural Fragrance substances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, Calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, Lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and bal seeds (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Furthermore animal raw come substances in question, such as civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds gen are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-Bu tylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, Benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzylsa salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes z. B. the linear Alka nals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone, α-isomethylionon and Me thylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, pheny ethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and bal same. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances that work together generate an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, mostly as an aro Mac components are used as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, Lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanu mole, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, Citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde,  Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, Allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, Cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures gene, used.

dyes

As dyes, the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used be used, such as the dye in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are put together. These dyes are usually used in concentrations from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight on the middle - amount. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes gene; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.  

Examples

Mixtures 1 to 7 according to the invention and comparative mixtures V1 and V2 are as follows manufactured. The appropriate amount of Polymer JR 400 was dissolved in water. Then was the sodium salt of salicylic acid added. After that, the surfactants were in the water phase incorporated. The pH was adjusted with citric acid.

The viscosity (mPa.s) was then measured at room temperature using a Brookfield viscometer after 60 seconds (model RVF, spindle No. 5, 10 rpm). The Results are summarized in Table 1.  

Table 1

Application properties; Quantities in% by weight of active substance (water + preservative ad 100%)

Claims (10)

1. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing

• a) salicylic acid and / or its derivatives thereof,
• b) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• c) alkyl ether sulfates and optionally
• d) fatty acid partial glycerides.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain as component (b) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the formula (II),
R ¹ O- [G] _p (II)
in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. 3. Preparations according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that they contain as component (c) alkyl ether sulfates of the formula (III),
R ¹ O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m SO ₃ X (III)
in which R ^{1 is} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, n is a number from 1 to 10 and X is an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. 4. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they as optional component (d) fatty acid partial glycerides selected from at least one of the Group formed by oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid mono glyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, behenic acid monoglyceride, behenic acid diglyceride, isobehen contain acid monoglyceride and / or isobehenic acid diglyceride. 5. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they further contain cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.   6. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they continue to contain polymers. 7. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the pH of the composition is adjusted to 2 to 6. 8. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they have a viscosity between 2000 and 22000 mPa.s (according to Brookfield, RT, after 60 Seconds, model RVF, spindle No. 5, 10 rpm). 9. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, containing

• a) 0.1 to 10% by weight of salicylic acid,
• b) 0.5 to 50% by weight of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• c) 0.1 to 50% by weight of alkyl ether sulfates,
• d) 0 to 30% by weight of fatty acid partial glycerides,
• e) 0 to 30% by weight betaines and
• f) 0 to 10% by weight of polymers

with the proviso that the amounts given with water and possibly other auxiliary substances and additives are 100% by weight. 10. Uses of preparations according to claim 1 in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical Preparations.