CZ20014705A3 - Cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium agent; and (b) at least one sunscreen active. The compositions of the present invention give sun protection benefits with low tackiness or stickiness. Moreover, the compositions of the present invention can give good skin care benefits with low levels of negatives such as greasiness, stickiness or tack.

Description

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions which provide good moisture, moisturizing, softness and / or smoothness of the skin together with protection against ultraviolet radiation damage.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The skin is made up of several layers of cells that protect the keratin and collagen fibrosis proteins forming the skeleton of its structure. The surface layer, referred to as stratum comeum, is composed of 25 nm protein bundles surrounded by an 8 nm thick layer.

Anionic surfactants and organic solvents penetrate the strata cornea membrane and by delipidization (i.e., removal of lipids from strata cornea) destroys its integrity. Damage to the skin surface leads to a feeling of roughness and possibly may allow detergents and solvents to interact with keratin, causing irritation. Many people expose their skin to this kind of damage every day. In addition, the skin may be damaged by external factors such as exposure to cold air or wind, mechanical abrasion, immersion in water, and the like. However, the most common external damage to the skin relates to exposure to ultraviolet radiation, particularly sunlight. Therefore, there is a need for a method for mitigating such damage.

In the past, funds were expected to help the loss of the comeu optimally maintain the barrier function and water retention despite the harmful effects of washing, work and recreation. Desirable properties of such compositions are skin-friendly, water retention, moisturizing, absorbing and / or hiding properties. The prior art compositions seek to obtain these properties by using one or more "skin-beneficial ingredients." For example, one way to achieve high skin moisturization is to incorporate a polyhydroxy alcohol-like moisturizer such as glycerin into the composition. Such compositions with a high content of polyhydroxy alcohols and hence a high level of wetting are often perceived as unpleasant to the user, since applied to the skin causes a sticky feeling. Another way to impart desirable properties to the skin is to incorporate emollients such as polyol carboxylic acid esters into the composition. However, such compositions can cause an undesirable negative feeling (e.g., often create a greasy skin feeling) and also do not have good hiding and absorbency properties and durability.

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · φφφφφ

A direct correlation was found between the amount of skin benefit component and skin benefit. But this is also the case where the greater the amount of the additive, the greater the risk of negative effects. Therefore, it was necessary to balance the benefits of compositions containing large amounts of skin-beneficial ingredients with the negative effects associated with this large amount. Thus, there remains a need for a composition that contains a large number of skin-beneficial ingredients and therefore provides a high level of moisturizing, moisturizing, softness and softness of the skin, but at the same time has only a low level of negative effects such as greasiness or stickiness.

Quaternary ammonium components are used in cosmetic compositions. See. for example WO-A-99/27 904, WO-A-96/32 089 and EP-A-789 076. Also US-A-5 804 205 includes skin care compositions that provide a high level of moisturizing without leaving a sticky residue. The compositions comprise quaternary ammonium compounds having two alkyl groups of 16 to 22 carbon atoms, moisturizing, non-irritating, hydrophobic micelles having an average particle size of less than 50 µm. Hydrophobic polymeric micelles are reported to significantly reduce the "stickiness" associated with large amounts of humectant. The compositions in US-A-5,804,205 may also contain small amounts of plasticizers such as petrolatum or mineral oil.

Substances that provide protection against sun damage are also well known for use in cosmetic compositions. See. for example EP-A-992 455, EP-A-953 336, WO-A-97/29 735 and US-A-5 989 529, which disclose sunscreen compositions. However, the compositions produced so far often leave a feeling of stickyness and it is difficult to achieve even application of the tanning component.

It has now been found that compositions containing at least one quaternary ammonium component and a tanning component allow a smooth, uniform application of the tanning component with a low level of adverse effects associated therewith. In addition, the present compositions may contain large amounts of skin-beneficial ingredients to improve the skin's feel, softness and smoothness while exhibiting a low level of adverse effects such as greasiness or tackiness.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium components of the present invention can emulsify the tanning components and control their placement in the skin, thereby ensuring a more uniform application without the tackiness commonly associated with these compositions. In addition, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium ingredients of the present invention can emulsify any wetting agents and control their deposition into the skin. This results in a smooth and even application of the moisturizer to the skin with minimal tackiness. The quaternary ammonium components of the present invention may also emulsify plasticizers, ensuring their more uniform application and minimizing grease and tackiness. Quaternary ammonium components help reduce the loss of tanning and / or moisturizing / emollient components from the skin due to environmental influences such as water or abrasion. In addition, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium components are beneficial to the skin on its own, for example by good moisturizing, feel to the touch, and softening of the skin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to the invention, a cosmetic composition comprising:

a) at least one quaternary ammonium component; and

(b) at least one tanning component.

The compositions of the present invention provide sun protection with low tackiness. In addition, the compositions of the present invention are beneficial to the skin at low levels of negative effects such as greasiness or tackiness.

Detailed description of the invention

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one quaternary ammonium component and at least one tanning component. These elements will be described in more detail below.

The present compositions may be used for any suitable purpose.

In particular, the present compositions are suitable for topical application to the skin. The compositions may be in particular in the form of creams, lotions, gels and the like. Preferably, the present cosmetic compositions are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase. Each oil phase comprises one oil component or a mixture of oil components in miscible or homogeneous form. Different oil phases contain different substances or combinations of substances.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise vesicles. Preferably, these vesicles comprise a quaternary ammonium compound together with a tanning component.

The compositions of the present invention comprise less than 10 weight percent, preferably less than 5 weight percent, more preferably less than 3 weight percent, and most preferably 0 weight percent anionic surfactant.

The compositions of the present invention are preferably prepared such that their viscosity is at least 1,000 mPa · s, preferably in the range of 1,000 to 300,000 mPa · s, more preferably 2,500 to 250,000 mPa · s, and most preferably 5,000 to 200,000 mPa · s ( 26.8 ° C, Brookfield DV-II + Spindle CP52 / CP41).

and · ··· a

··· · 4 · 4 · 4

Quaternary ammonium component

The compositions of the present invention must contain at least one quaternary ammonium component. Any quaternary ammonium component suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used. As used herein, the term "quaternary ammonium component" means a compound or mixture of compounds having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted with one or more, preferably two, groups having six or more carbon atoms. Preferably, the quaternary ammonium components for the proposed use are selected from those having quaternary nitrogen substituted by two groups, each group containing ten or more, preferably twelve or more, carbon atoms. Most preferably, the quaternary ammonium components for the proposed use are selected from those capable of forming vesicles in polar solutions as discovered by microscopic analysis (microscopy in polarized light at 60x magnification, using a Nikon Eclipse E800 microscope). As used herein, the term "vesicle" means one or more bilayers arranged in a closed, mostly spherical geometry. The bilayers contain the quaternary ammonium component described below.

The present composition comprises at least 0.01 weight percent, preferably 0.1 weight percent, more preferably 1 weight percent, and most preferably at least 3 weight percent of the quaternary ammonium component.

Preferably, the quaternary ammonium components for the proposed use are selected from:

(a) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula I:

r ₂

Ri-N ⁺ -Rs

X '(I) r ₄ wherein R 1 and R ₂ are each C 1 -C 4 alkyl or C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl groups, or hydrogen.

R ₃ and R 4 are each alkyl or alkenyl groups having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

XT is an anion-forming salt, compatible with quaternary ammonium compounds and other components.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of this type are quaternary amines of formula I wherein R 1 and R ₂ are methyl or hydroxyethyl and R 3 and R 6 are linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chains containing at least 11, preferably at least 15 carbon atoms.

(b) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula II or ΠΙ:

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

(b) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula II or ΠΙ:

( ^R 5) 4-m N ⁺ - {- (C ₂ ) _n -QR ₆ ) _m * (II) (Rskm-Ν ⁺ -γ (ΟΗ ₂ ) _η -CH-CH ₂ -QR ₆ ) _m

QR ₆

X (III) wherein each R 5 unit is independently hydrogen, branched or straight chain C 1 -C 6 alkyl, branched or straight chain C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl, and combinations thereof, preferably methyl or hydroxyethyl; each R d unit is independently linear or branched C 11 -C 22 alkyl, linear or branched C 11 -C 22 alkenyl, and mixtures thereof; X 1 is an anion compatible with skin benefit agents and other ingredients; m is 1 to 4, preferably 2; n is 1 to 4, preferably 2 and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from groups 1 to 6:

O

II c

O-C-O-

R ₇ O

I II

- _N - _c - (3)

II I (4)

II

HC-O-C (6) φ φ φφφφ

where R 7 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl, and combinations thereof. φ · kde kde kde kde kde φ φ φ φ φ φ φ

In the above example, the quaternary ammonium compound -QR 6 unit contains a fatty acyl unit, which is obtained from a triglyceride source. The triglyceride source is preferably obtained from tallow, partially hydrogenated tallow, lard, partially hydrogenated lard, vegetable oils and / or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils such as canola, safflower, peanut, rapeseed, sunflower, corn, soybean, talcum, rice bran and the like, and mixtures thereof.

The counterion, X 'of the above compounds, may be any compatible anion, preferably a strong acid anion, eg chloride, bromide, methylsulfonate, ethylsulfonate, sulfate, nitrate and the like, more preferably chloride or methylsulfonate. Anion can, but less preferably, also carry a double charge, where X ‘represents half of the group.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of the present invention are diester and / or diamide quaternary ammonium (DEQA) compounds, diesters and diamides of formula II, wherein the carbonyl group Q is selected from groups 1,2 and 4:

O

II

-about what

II

-c — o (2) (2)

-N-C- (3)

Tallow, canola and palm oil are convenient and inexpensive sources of fatty acyl units that are preferably used as Re units in the present invention.

Counter X 'is chloride bromide, methylsulfonate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. Anion X is present as a counterion only in positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the present invention is not limited to any particular anion.

If specified, the diester will include a monoester and triester that are commonly present as a result of the manufacturing process.

(c) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula IV or V:

R ₉ • 9 9

9 9 9 • 9 · 9 · 9 · 9 · 9

9 9 9 • 9 9

9 9

9 9

9999

//

F? 1 o? -C-Rg

II (V) wherein R 8 is a non-cyclic aliphatic C 15 -C 21 hydrocarbon group and R w is a C 1 -C 6 alkyl or alkylene group.

These ammonium compounds having a pKa of not more than 4 are capable of generating a positive charge at the point where they are dispersed in an aqueous solution and determine the pH of the final composition to not more than 6.

(d) quaternary ammonium compounds of the general formula VI or VII:

O (VI)

44 * 4 · 44 · 4 4

4444 44 4 44

4444444 4,444 4 4

4,444,444

4,444 44 <4,444

X (VII) wherein R 9 and R 10 are as above and R 11 is selected from C 1 -C 4 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups.

The counterion X 'is chloride, bromide, methylsulfonate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. Anion X is present as a counterion only in positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the present invention is not limited to any particular anion.

e) a quaternary ammonium compound of formula VIII or IX.

O

O (VIII) x;

(ix) wherein n is from 1 to 6, R 9 is selected from non-cyclic aliphatic C 15 -C 21 hydrocarbon groups and R 12 is selected from C 1 -C 4 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups.

These ammonium compounds (VIII) having a pKa value of not more than 4 are capable of generating a positive charge at the point where they are dispersed in an aqueous solution and determine the pH of the final composition to not more than 6.

4 • 4 4

4 4 4

4 4441

4 4

4444

4444 44 44

4 4 4 4 4 5

4 4 4 4

44 · 4

The counterion Χ '(ΙΧ) is chloride, bromide, methylsulfonate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. Anion X is present as the counterion only in positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the present invention is not limited to any particular anion.

(f) diquartemic ammonium compounds of the general formula X, XI, XII or XIII:

• R Q- _(CH2) nQg-1 _(CH2) n- (X)

Re-Q _(CH2) nJ-N- _(CH2) n-R

2X ~

R _e -Q-

Θ

- (CH ₂ ) n -N- (CH ₂ ) n R 5

2X8 (XI)

-N- (CH ₂ ) n 6

Q-Rs

2X '(xii)

OH (? H ₂ ) _z

- (CH ₂ ) n N - (CH ₂ ) n Q r

I ©

- (CH ₂ ) n QN 4 - (CH ₂ ) n Q (CH ₂ ) z

OH

2X- (xiii) wherein R 5, R 6, Q, n and X 'are as above in relation to formula II and III, R 11 is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkylene groups, preferably ethylene, and z is from 0 to 4.

··· 99 »« ·· ·· 99

9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 · 9 9 9 9 · * · ······· · · · · ·

9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 · 99 9999

g) mixtures of the above-mentioned quaternary ammonium compounds.

The quaternary ammonium components preferably used in the present invention are described in section b) above. Particular preference is given to the diester and / or diamide quaternary ammonium (DEQA) compounds of the above general formula Π. Preferred diesters are of formula II wherein R5, Rf, and X 'are as defined above and Q is Group 1:

(1)

Preferred diamides are of formula II wherein R 5, R f, and X - are as defined above and Q is a group 7:

HIM

Preferred examples of quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N, N-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl-, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfonate, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred is N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl-, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfonate.

Although quaternary ammonium compounds derived from "kanolyl" fatty acyl groups are preferred, other suitable examples of quaternary ammonium compounds are derived from fatty acyl groups wherein the term "kanolyl" used above is replaced by the terms "tallow alkyl, cocoa alkyl, palmyl, lauryl, oleyl, ricinoleyl, stearyl, palmityl ', which correspond to the triglyceride source from which the fatty acyl units are derived. These alternative fatty acyl sources comprise fully saturated, or more preferably at least partially unsaturated chains.

Tanning ingredients

The compositions of the present invention comprise as a second base component at least one tanning component. These suntan components include organic compounds and their salts and inorganic accompanying substances. Without wishing to be bound by theory, the tanning components are believed to provide protection against ultraviolet radiation by one or more of the mechanisms described below, including absorption, diffusion and reflection of ultraviolet radiation. Non-limiting examples of these tanning products

I · · ·· ·

99 99

9

9 9 9

9

9 9 9 • ·· · »··

The Π components are described in US Patent No. 5,960,549. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al., Issued Feb. 11, 1992; U.S. Pat. 5,073,372, toTetet et al., Issued Dec. 17, 1991; U.S. Pat. 5,073,371, to Turnet et al., Issued Dec. 17, 1991; U.S. Pat. 5,160,731, Sabatelli et al., Issued Nov. 3, 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 5,138,089, to Sabatelli, issued Apr. 11, 1992; U.S. Pat. 5,041,282 to Sabatelli, issued Apr. 20, 1991; U.S. Pat. No. 4,999,186, to Sabatelli et al., Issued Mar. 12, 1991; U.S. Pat. No. 4,937,370 to Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; and Segarin, et al., in Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of "Cosmetics Science and Technology".

Preferred tanning components include 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinamate, octylsalicylate, occtrylene, oxybenzone, 2-ethylhexyl yl, Ν-dimethylaminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, homomenthylsalicylate, DEA p-methoxycinamate 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

3-benzylidenkafr, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N ester -dimethylaminobenzoic acid with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, acid ester

4- N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N-di ( 2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-di (2) -ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4- ( 2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

More preferred sunbathing components include 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinamate, octocrylene, octylsalicylate, homomethylsalicylate, p-aminobenzoic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, DEA p- methoxycinamate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidenephen, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

The exact amount of tanning component varies depending on the selected component type and the desired SPF. SPF is a commonly used measure of protecting the tanning component against redness. See. Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, s. 38 206-38 269, April 25, 1978.

• 4 44 444 • 4 *

4 • 4 • 4 • 4 • 4 • 4 • 4 • 4

4 4

4 4

4 4 4

44

4 4 4 4

4 4

4 4 4 4444

The compositions of the present invention preferably contain 0.01 to 20 weight percent, more preferably 0.1 to 10 weight percent of the tanning component.

Optional folders

The compositions described herein may comprise a plurality of optional ingredients that render the present compositions cosmetically or aesthetically more acceptable or provide other beneficial properties. Such conventional optional ingredients are well known to those skilled in the art. These include any cosmetically acceptable ingredients such as those listed in the CTFA International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7th Edition, edited by Wenninger and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1997). Some non-limiting examples of these optional components are provided below.

Skin beneficial ingredients

In the compositions of the present invention, it is preferred that they contain a skin benefit component. As used herein, the term "skin benefit ingredient" means any compound or mixture of compounds that, for example, impart moisturizing, protection, pleasant feeling to the skin, softness and / or softness. Preferably, humectants and softeners and mixtures thereof are used herein.

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least 1 weight percent skin benefit components. Preferably, they contain 2 to 70 weight percent, more preferably 5 to 60 weight percent, and most preferably 10 to 55 weight percent of the skin benefit component.

Moisturizing components

Moisturizing agents are most preferred in the compositions of the present invention. As used herein, the term "moisturizer" means a substance that provides the skin with the ability to retain water. The compositions of the present invention comprise at least 1 weight percent, preferably 5 weight percent, more preferably 10 weight percent, and most preferably 20 weight percent humectant.

Any humectant suitable for cosmetic compositions may be used in the present invention. Non-limiting examples of suitable humectants of the present invention are disclosed in WO 98/22 085, WO98 / 18 444 and WO97 / 01 326. Preferred humectants of the present invention include, but are not limited to: amino acids and derivatives thereof such as proline and arginine aspartate, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol and water and codium tomentosum extract, collagen amino acids or peptides, creatinine, diglycerol, gum-1 biosaccharide, glucamine salts, glucuronic acid salts, glutamic acid salts,

99

9 · · · · ·

9 9

9

9

9 9 9 9 9

999 99

999 polyethylene glycol ethers of glycerin (eg glycereth 20), glycerin, glycerol monopropoxylate, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey and its extracts or derivatives, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, hydrolysed mucopolysaccharides, inositol, keratin amino acids, urea, LAREX A-200 (available from Larex), glycosaminoglycans, methoxy PEG 10, methylgluceth-10 and -20 (commonly available from Amerchol located in Edison, NJ), methylglucose,

3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, N-acetylglucosamine salts, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof (such as PEG 15 butanediol, PEG 4, PEG 5 pentaerythiol, PEG 6, PEG 8, PEG 9), pentaerythiol,

1,2-pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl ether, PPG-9, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and its salts such as glyceryl pca, saccharide isomerate, SEACARE (available from Secma), sericin, silk amino acids, sodium acetylhyaluronate, hyaluronate sodium, polyaspartate sodium, polyglutamate sodium, sorbeth 20, sorbeth 6, sugar and sugar alcohols such as glucose, mannose and polyglycerol sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethyolpropane, tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts and yeast extracts, and mixtures thereof.

More preferred humectants of the present invention include glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof. The most preferred wetting agents of the present invention include glycerin, urea and mixtures thereof, especially glycerin.

Softening ingredients

Another suitable optional component of the compositions of the present invention are emollients. The emollients lubricate the skin, increase its smoothness and elasticity, prevent or dehydrate and / or protect the skin. Many types of plasticizers are known which can be used in the present invention. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd edition, vol. 32-43 (1972) contains many examples of suitable emollients. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise more than 1 weight percent, more preferably at least 5 weight percent, and most preferably at least 10 weight percent of the emollient.

Preferred emollients include:

(i) straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having 7 to 40 carbon atoms such as dodecane, squalane, petrolatum, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isohexadecane, and

C7-C40 isoparaffins which are C7-C40 branched hydrocarbons.

ii) C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, such as isononylisononanoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyladipate and diisopropyldilinoleate.

(iii) mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and their ethoxylated derivatives. Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-11 avocado glycerides, PEG-6 caproic and caprylic glycerides, PEG-8 caproic and caprylic glycerides, PEG-20 corn glycerides, PEG-60 corn glycerides, PEG-60 evening primrose glycerides, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoa, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoa, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoa, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoa, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoa, PEG-12 glyceryl dioleate, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG -20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-75 cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-20 hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, PEG-70 mango glycerides, PEG-13 mink glycerides, PEG-75 shorea nut butter glycerides, PEG-10 olive glycerides , PEG-12 palm core glycerides, PEG-45 palm core glycerides, PEG8 glyceryl laurate and PEG-30 glyceryl laurate. Mixtures of polyethylene glycol glyceride derivatives may also be used.

iv) C1-C30 carboxylic acid alkylene glycol esters such as ethylene glycol mono- and di-esters and C1-C30 carboxylic acid propylene glycol mono- and di-esters such as ethylene glycol distearate.

(v) Organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil may be a volatile, non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term "non-volatile" is used to refer to silicones which are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under one atmosphere pressure) of greater than 100 ° C. The term "volatile" is used to refer to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes may be selected from a wide variety of volatile and non-volatile silicones. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Pat. Suitable organopolysiloxanes include polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones, dimethiconols, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. More preferred are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Preferred among the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones.

(vi) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower, castor, coconut, cottonseed, herring, palm kernel, palm, peanut, soybean, rapeseed, linseed, rice bran, pine, sesame, sunflower, partially and fully hydrogenated oils from and mixtures thereof.

4 4 · 4

4 · 44 4 4 · · 4

4444 44 4 44

4,444 4 4 · 4444 4

4 44 44 444444 ^{15 (} vii) Animal fats and oils, such as cod oil, lanolin and its derivatives such as acetylated lanolin and isopropyllanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred.

viii) Also useful are C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, C1-C20 carboxylic acids, polypropylene glycols, and di-C ₈ -C ₃ alkyl ethers of which examples include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

ix) polyolecarboxylic acid esters

x) mixtures of the above substances

Preferred emollients of the present invention include dodecane, squalane, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane, isononyl isononeanoate, petrolatum, lanolin and derivatives thereof, saflor, castor, coconut, cottonseed, palm kernel, palm, peanut, soybean, polyolecarboxylic acid esters acids and mixtures thereof. More preferred emollients include polyolecarboxylic acid esters, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof.

These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol group and one or more carboxylic acid groups. These esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature, depending on the selected acid and sugar. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, galactose oleic acid tetraesters, arabinose linolenic acid esters, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate esters, sorbitol sorbitol tetraoleate sorbitol sorbitol sorbitol sorbentol , xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester, wherein the carboxylic acid ester groups are palmitate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1: 2; raffinose octaester, wherein the carboxylic acid ester groups are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3; maltose heptaester, wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid groups are sunflower oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3: 4 molar ratio; sucrose octaester, wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid groups are oleate and behenate in a 2: 6 molar ratio; and an octaester of sucrose, wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid groups are laurate, linoleate, and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and wherein the molar ratio of fatty acids C ₈ mono- and / or dinenasycených to behenic is about 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred sugar polyester is the octaester of sucrose wherein there are usually 7 behenic fatty acid groups and 1 oleic acid group per molecule. Other substances include sucrose fatty acid esters of cotton or soybean oil. Esters are further described in U.S. Pat. 2,831,854; U.S. Pat. 4 005 196

9 to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977; U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,195, to Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977; U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,516, to Letton et al., Issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,515, to Letton et al., Issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,305,514, to Letton et al., Issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 4,797,300, Jandacek et al., Issued Jan. 10, 1989; U.S. Patent No. 3,963,699 to Rizzi et al., Issued June 15, 1976; U.S. Pat. 4,518,772, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; U.S. Pat. No. 4,517,360, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985.

Polyol fatty acid esters suitable for use in the present invention can be prepared by a variety of methods known to those skilled in the art. These methods include: transesterifying the polyol with methyl, ethyl or glycerol fatty acid esters using various catalysts; acylating the polyol with a fatty acid chloride; acylating the polyol with a fatty acid anhydride; and acylating the polyol with a fatty acid per se. See. e.g., U.S. Pat.

831 854; U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977.

A particularly preferred substance is known under the INCI name sucrose polycottonseedate.

Another skin benefit ingredient

Other skin-beneficial ingredients may be used in the compositions of the present invention. Examples of such ingredients suitable for use in the present compositions include:

(a) Vitamin compounds

The present compositions may contain vitamin compounds, prodrugs and derivatives thereof. These vitamin compounds may be natural or synthetic. Suitable vitamin compounds include vitamin A compounds (e.g., beta-carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, etc.), vitamin B (e.g., niacin, niacinamide, riboflavin, pantothenic acid, etc.), vitamin C (e.g. ascorbic acid and the like), vitamin D (e.g. ergosterol, ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol and the like), vitamin E (e.g. tocopherol acetate, etc.) and vitamin K (e.g., thytonadione, menadione, phthiocol, etc.). Preferred vitamin compounds of the present invention are vitamin B3 compounds, particularly suitable for skin condition control as described in WO-A-97/39 733. If vitamin B3 compounds are present in the compositions of the present invention, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 50 weight percent more preferably 0.1 to 10 weight percent, and most preferably 0.5 to 5 weight percent.

As used herein, the term "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound of formula XIV:

(XIV) wherein R is -CONH 2 (i.e. niacinamide), -COOH (i.e. nicotinic acid), or -CH 2 OH (i.e. nicotinic alcohol); derivatives thereof and salts of any of the foregoing.

Typical derivatives of the aforementioned vitamin B ₃ compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including vascular non-expanding esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinylamino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.

Examples of suitable vitamin B ₃ compounds are well known to those skilled in the art and are readily available from a number of sources, eg, from the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and the Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).

The vitamin compounds may be present as pure substances or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural (eg, plant) sources.

(b) Wrinkle and skin atrophy substances

Examples of anti-wrinkle and skin atrophy agents useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, lactic acid and its derivatives, retinoic acid and its derivatives (eg, cis and trans); retinol; retiny 1 esters; niacinamide, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; sulfur containing D and L amino acids, derivatives and salts thereof, especially N-acetyl derivatives, preferably N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols such as ethanethiol; hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic acid and skin peeling agents (e.g., phenol, etc.).

c) Antimicrobial and antifungal agents

Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal agents useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, β-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxytrichloro-2'-hydroxy-trichloro-2'-hydroxy , 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethanbutol, hexamidinisothionate, metronidycin, lineamidine, pentamine, gentamine, gentamine, gentamine, gentamine, gentamine, netilmycin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, Zn-erythromycin, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin hydrochloride, doxycycline hydrochloride, oxreycycin gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlorhexidine hydrochloride hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamycin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lineomycin hydrochloride, · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · methacycline hydrochloride, methenamine hippurate, methenamine mandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netilmycin sulfate, paromomycin sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine sulfate, octopiroxine, clolna methionine, parachloromethionine, parachloromethionine, parachloromethionine;

Polar solvents

The compositions of the present invention may also contain polar solvents. Any polar solvent suitable for cosmetic compositions may be used. But the solvent must be polar enough to form vesicles. Preferably, water is used in the compositions of the present invention.

Preferably, the present compositions comprise 10 to 90 weight percent, more preferably 20 to 80 weight percent and most preferably 30 to 60 weight percent polar solvent.

Thickeners

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise thickeners. Any thickener suitable for cosmetic compositions may be used. Suitable thickeners are selected from non-ionic water-soluble polymers, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Suitable non-ionic polymers include cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose), polyethylene oxide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxypropylguarose, starch amyl, starch, amylpropyl guarose, starch, amylpropyl guarose. Suitable fatty alcohols are higher molecular weight primary alcohols, non-volatile, of formula XV:

RCH ₂ OH (XV) wherein R is C 5-10 alkyl. They can be made from natural fats or oils by reducing the carboxylic acid group of a fatty acid to a hydroxyl group. Alternatively, similarly or similarly structured fatty alcohols may be prepared by conventional synthetic methods known to those skilled in the art. Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, behenyl alcohol, C9-C11 alcohols, C12-C13 alcohols, C12-C15 alcohols, C12-C16 alcohols, C14-C15 alcohols, caprylalcohol, cetearyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol , lauryl9 9 9 »

999 99 9,999

9999 9 · 9 99 ·

9 9999 999 9999 9 • 9 9 9999 999 • 9 9 9 9 9 9 «99999 alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol.

Other optional folders

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a wide variety of other optional ingredients. These components should be pharmaceutically acceptable. Non-limiting examples of categories of suitable ingredients of the present compositions include: abrasives, absorbents, anti-acne agents, anti-drying agents, anti-dandruff agents, antiperspirants, antioxidants, antiviral agents, artificial and faster tanning agents, biologicals, bleaches, refreshing agents, buffering agents, complexing agents, chemical additives, dyes, cosmetic additives, cleansing agents, cosmetic contracting agents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, deodorants, desquamation agents, depilators, medicinal contracting agents, color transfer agents, enzymes, external analgesics, foam generators, essences, film-forming agents, fragrances, insect repellents, fungal agents, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, opacifying agents, oxidizing dyes, oxidizing agents, insect agents, pH regulators such as citric acid, pH buffering agents, pharmaceuticals, softeners Adhesives, preservatives, radical cleaners, skin, hair or nail bleaching agents, skin, hair or nail conditioners, skin, hair or nail penetration enhancers, stabilizers, wetting agents, surface conditioners, reducing agents, temperature reducing agents , viscosity modifiers and heat generators such as exothermic zeolites. Aesthetic components such as dyes, essential oils and healing agents are also useful. Other optional ingredients include pigments. The pigments suitable for the compositions of the present invention may be organic and / or inorganic. Pigments also include substances having a weak color or gloss such as matte finishes and light diffusers. Examples of suitable pigments include iron oxides, acyglutamate iron oxides, titanium dioxide, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine and mixtures thereof.

Preparation method

Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are prepared such that the quaternary ammonium compound forms vesicles. Preferably, these vesicles also contain a moisturizing and softening component. More preferably, the vesicles also comprise a tanning component. In order to ensure optimal properties of the present compositions, the following preparations are preferred:

(i) the quaternary ammonium component, or part thereof, is mixed with a humectant, water-soluble sun-tanning components, water-soluble skin-care products. · · · · · · · · ····· · And 99 and 99. The components (if present) and preferably a polar solvent at a temperature above the melting point of the quaternary ammonium component;

ii) optionally mixing the mixture rapidly;

(iii) an emulsion is prepared in a separate container as follows: the oil phase containing the emollients, a suitable thickener, if soluble in oil, an oil-soluble tanning component, and the remaining quaternary ammonium component are mixed together at a temperature above the melting point of the ammonium quaternary folders; the aqueous phase is prepared separately. Water, a suitable thickener, if water-soluble and the remaining water-soluble components are heated to the same temperature as the oil phase.

iv) the oil and water phases are approximately equilibrated and the aqueous phase is combined with the oil phase by stirring.

v) to form an emulsion, the mixture prepared in step i) is mixed into the above-mentioned emulsion.

Method of use

The compositions of the present invention may be used in a conventional manner to treat the skin. An effective amount of the composition, preferably 0.1 to 50 grams, more preferably 1 to 20 grams, is applied to dry or moist, preferably wet, skin. Application is done by rubbing the composition into the skin, usually with hands and fingers. The composition is then left on the skin, or more preferably rinsed.

A suitable method of skin care therefore includes the following steps:

a) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to the skin,

b) rinsing the skin.

A preferred aspect of the present invention is the aforementioned method of applying the composition to dry skin rather than wet skin. A suitable method therefore comprises the following steps:

(i) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to the skin;

(ii) rinsing the skin with a shower;

iii) further applying said composition; and iv) further rinsing.

Many damage to human skin is caused by repeated exposure to detergent-containing compositions during washing. It has been found that this damage can be alleviated by the use of the present compositions. Therefore, other suitable methods include the following steps:

(i) washing the skin using a surfactant-containing composition;

(ii) rinsing the skin;

iii) applying the composition of the present invention to the skin;

«· F · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv iv ivφ φ

It has also been found that the present compositions are particularly effective as part of day-to-day care. Therefore, another suitable method includes:

(i) application of a device containing:

a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound;

(b) a humectant; and ii) rinsing the skin;

iii) repeating steps i) and ii) for 48 hours.

The present compositions may also be useful for alleviating damage caused by exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation, exposure to water during swimming or other water-based exercises, damage caused by shaving or peeling, or exposure of the skin to water during bathing.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples are another suitable illustration within the scope of the present invention, but are not intended to limit it, since there are many variations of the present invention without going beyond its scope. Unless otherwise indicated, all components are expressed in weight percent of the active ingredient.

Example 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Weight percent

Quaternary, ammonium, folder (see. below) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 AND Glycerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 - - - - - - AND Urea - - - - - - - 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd AND Vaseline - - 10 - 12 15 Dec - - - 10 - 12 15 Dec (B) Lanolin ¹ - - - 7.5 5 - 15 Dec - - - 10 10 - (B) Coronet Lanolin ¹ - - - - - - 5 - - - - - - (B) Supersterol esters ¹ 5 (B) Cotton brush oil 21 21 12 12 21 21 12 12 (B)

· · · · · · · · · · · ·

Φ Φ · · Φ Φ Φ

Φ φφφφφφφ φ φφφ 4 φ

ΦΦ Φ φ φ φ φ * · «φ

Dimethikon lOCst 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) Dimethikon 100OCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 l, o 1.0 1.0 (B) Cyklomethikon - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - - - 2.5 2.5 (B) PEG ² Florasun 10 2 2 3 1 3 (B) Methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 AND Propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) EDTA disodná salt 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND Sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (B) Niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 AND Panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 AND Tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 (B) Retinol palmitate 0.1 - - - - - 0.05 - - 0.1 - - - (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.1 0.5 1 1 1 0.5 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 5 2.5 5 2.5 5 0.5 2.5 5 5 5 2.5 5 (B) Acid lemon 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 AND Acid salicylová 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.7 AND Triethanolamine 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 C Sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - C Polyquaternium 10 1.0 0.5 0.6 0.5 (B) Polymer KG30 ⁴ 0.7 0.7 0.8 (B) Scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E Cetyl alcohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - C Stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - C Cetearyl alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 C Behenyl alcohol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - C

• φ φ φ φ · · φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ

Natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.25 C Natrosol 250 HHR 1 0.3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar HP 1Ο5 ⁵ - 1,2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - D Jaguar Cl4 ⁵ - - - 1 - - - - - - - - - D Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - - 1,2 - - - - - - - D Xanthan resin 2,0 D Sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - AND Water ad 100% 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 AND

Example 14 15 Dec 16 17 18 19 Dec 20 May 21 22nd 23 24 25 26

Weight percent

Quaternary, ammonium. folder (see. below) 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 AND Glycerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 - - - - - - AND Urea - - - - - - - 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd AND Vaseline - - 10 - 12 15 Dec - - - 10 - 12 15 Dec (B) Lanolin ¹ - - - 7.5 5 - 15 Dec - - - 10 10 - (B) Coronet Lanolin ¹ - - - - - - 5 - - - - - - (B) Supersterol esters ¹ 5 (B) Cotton brush oil 21 21 12 12 21 21 12 12 (B) Dimethikon lOCst 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) Dimethikon 100OCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) Cyklomethikon - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - - - 2.5 2.5 (B) PEG ² Florasun 10 2 2 3 1 3 (B)

• · 4 44 44 ·· 44 * 4 · »4 4 4 4 4 4 4

4444 4 4 4 44 4 • 44444 ·· 4,444 4 4

4 4 4 44 · 4 444444

Methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 AND Propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) EDTA disodná salt 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND Sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (B) Niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 AND Panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 AND Tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 (B) Retinol palmitate 0.1 - - - - 0.05 - - - - - - 0.1 (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 0.1 1 1 0.5 1 1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 5 2.5 5 2.5 2.5 0.5 5 5 2.5 5 5 5 (B) Acid lemon 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.7 1 1 1 AND Acid salicylová 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.7 AND Triethanolamine 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 C Sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - C Polyquaternium 10 1.0 0.5 0.6 0.5 (B) Polymer KG 3 O ⁴ 0.7 0.7 0.8 (B) Scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E Cetyl alcohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - C Stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - C Cetearyl alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 C Behenyl alcohol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - C Natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.25 C Natrosol 250 HHR 1 0.3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ - 1,2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - D Jaguar C14S ⁵ - - - 1 - - - - - - - - - D Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - - 1,2 - - - - - - - D

9999

9

9 * 9

9 ·· 99 ······· · 9

99

9 9 9 ·

9 ·

9

9 9 9

9 · 9999

Xanthan resin 2,0 D Sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - AND Water ad 100% 99 95 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 AND

Example 27 Mar: 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 Weight percent Quaternary, ammonium. folder (see below) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 8 AND Glycerine 15 Dec 16 22nd 9 8 9 - 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 15 Dec AND Propylene glycol - 16 - - 5 12 AND Butylene glycol - - 8 8 - 8 12 - AND Urea - - - 12 - 2 9 AND Vaseline - - 10 - 12 15 Dec - - 4 7.5 - 12 5 -. 6 - (B) Lanolin ¹ * - - 7.5 7.5 - 15 Dec - 3.5 3 - - - (B) Coronet Lanolin ² - - - - - - - 7 - 6.7 - 6 - (B) Supersterol esters ¹ - - - - - - - - 3.5 - 6.5 - 3 6 3 - (B) Isohexadekan - - - - - - - - 5 - 3 - - 3 - (B) Isononyl isononanoate 3 5 (B) Sefa cotton oil 21 21 12 12 - - 13 - 8 - 8 12 10 21 (B) Sefa behenát - - - - - - 9 - - 3 - 5 - - - (B) Dimethikon lOCst - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - 0.5 0.5 - - - (B) Dimethikon 100OCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 1.0 - - - (B) Cyklomethikon - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - - - 2.5 2.5 - - (B) Florasun 10 ^PEG-2 - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - 2.5 - - (B) Methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 AND Propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) EDTA disodium salt 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 θ, ι 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND Sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (B) Niacinamide 3 5 5 5 5 5 3 3 5 5 5 3 3 AND Panthenol 1 3 3 3 3 3 1 1 3 3 3 1 1 AND

• ΦΦΦ • · ···· • Φ φφ

9 9 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 • 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9

9 · 9 9 9. ΦΦΦΦ

Tocopherol acetate 0.5 2 2 2 2 2 0.5 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 0.5 (B) Retinol palmitate - - - 0.1 - 0.05 - - 0.1 - - - - - - (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 0.5 1 1 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 1 1 - 0.1 1 0.5 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 2.5 5 5 5 2.5 2.5 5 2.5 5 5 5 - 0.5 5 2.5 5 (B) Citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 1 - 1 AND Salicylic acid - 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - - 0.5 - AND Triethanolamine 0.1 - 0.1 0.1 - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 - - 0.1 C Sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - - 0.6 - C Polyquaternium 10 - - 1.0 - - 0.5 0.6 - - - 0.5 1.0 - - (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ - 0.7 0.7 - - - 0.8 - - 0.8 - (B) Scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E Cetyl alcohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - - 3.2 3 C Stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - - 2.6 2 C Cetearyl alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - 3.4 - 3.4 - - C Behenyl alcohol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 0.7 - - - 0.2 2 C Natrosol 330 Plus 1 - - 0.4 - - 0.7 0.6 - 0.5 0.25 - 0.6 1 C Natrosol 250 HHR - - 1 - 0.3 - - - - 1,2 - - 0.3 - - - C Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ - 1,2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - - - - D Jaguar Cl4S ⁴ 1 D Jaguar C13S ^Ď - - - - - 1,2 - - - - - - - 0.8 - - D Xanthan resin 3.0 D Sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - 0.2 0.1 - AND Water ad 100% ií ii il ii 11 11 11 ii 11 11 11 AND Example 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56

Weight percent

Quaternary, ammonium. folder (see below) 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 AND Glycerine 16 22nd 9 8 9 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND Propylene glycol 16 - - - 5 12 - - - - - - - AND Butylene glycol - 8 8 - 8 12 - - - - - * AND

· »· · 4 4

4 4

4 4

4 4 4 4

4

4 4

4 4

4 4 • «4 · 4 44 · 4

4 4 4

4 4 · ·

4 4

4 · 4444

Urea - 12 - 2 9 - - - - - - - - AND Vaseline - 10 - 12 15 Dec - - 4 7.5 - 12 5 - 6 (B) Lanolin ¹ - 7.5 7.5 - 15 Dec 3.5 - 3 - - - - (B) Coronet Lanolin ² - - - - - - 7 - 6.7 - - 6 - (B) Super sterol esters ¹ - - - - - 3.5 - 6.5 - 3 6 3 (B) Isohexadekan - - - - - - 5 - 3 - - 3 (B) Isononyl isononanoate 3 5 (B) Sefa cotton oil 21 12 12 - - - 13 - 8 - - 8 12 10 (B) Sefa behenát - - - - - 9 - 3 - 5 - - (B) Dimethikon lOCst 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 - (B) Dimethikon 100OCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - - - 1.0 1.0 - - (B) Cyklomethikon 2.5 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - - - 2.5 2.5 - (B) Florasun 10 ^PEG-2 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - 3 - - 2.5 - (B) Methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 AND Propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) EDTA disodium salt 0.1 0.1 0.1 o, l 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND Sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (B) Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 5 3 3 5 5 5 3 AND Panthenol 3 3 3 3 3 1 1 3 3 3 1 AND Tocopherol acetate 2 2 2 2 2 0.5 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 (B) Retinol palmitate - - - - - - 0.05 - - 0.1 - * (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 0.5 1 0.5 1 1 0.5 1 0.5 1 1 0.1 1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 2.5 5 2.5 5 5 2.5 5 2.5 5 5 0.5 5 5 (B) Citric acid 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.7 1 1 1 1 - AND Salicylic acid 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - - 0.5 AND Triethanolamine - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 - C Sodium hydroxide - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - - 0.6 C Polyquatemium 10 - 1.0 - 0.5 - 0.6 - - 0.5 1.0 - (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ 0.7 - - 0.7 - 0.8 - - - - 0.8 (B) Scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E Cetyl alcohol - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - - 3.2 C Stearyl alcohol - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - - 2.6 C

· • 0 0 · 0 ·

0 0 0 0 0

0000 00 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ·

0 0 0 0 0 0

0 »00 0000

Cetearyl alcohol - 4 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 - - C Behenyl alcohol - 2 - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - - 0.2 C Natrosol 330 Plus - 0.4 - 0.7 0.6 - 0.5 0.25 - 0.6 C Natrosol 250 HHR 1 0.3 - - - - 1,2 - - 0.3 - - C Jaguar HP 105 ³ 1,2 - - - - - - 0.8 - - - - D Jaguar C14S ⁵ - - 1 - - • - - - - - - D Jaguar C 13S ⁵ - - - - 1,2 - - - - - - - 0.8 - D Xanthan resin 3.0 D Sodium chloride - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - 0.2 0.1 AND Water ad 100% > 5 25 55 55 > 5 55 55 > 5 AND

1; available at Croda

2; available from Floratech, AZ, USA 3; available from Hoffman La Roche, NJ, USA 4; available from Amerchol, NJ, USA 5; available at Rhodia, NJ, USA

In Examples 1,4, 7, 9, 17, 20, 22, 24, 28, 36, 38, 47, 49, 53, 56, the quaternary ammonium compound distearyldimethylammonium chloride, supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft TA100, is used.

- In Examples 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 10, 15, 16, 18.19, 21, 23, 26.27, 31, 33, 34, 35, 37, 41.45, 46.48, 50 , 51, 52, 54, 55, the quaternary ammonium compound N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by Ph. Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat V3620.

In Example 11, the quaternary ammonium compound N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by the company is used. Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat WE18.

In Example 12, the quaternary ammonium compound N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride, supplied by the company, is used. Goldschmidt, developmental substance (WE25).

9 • 9 • 9 • 9

9 * 9

9999 98 99

9 * 9 9 9 9

9

9 9 9 9 9 ·

9 9 9 9 9 9 • 9 99 9 · 9999

In Example 13, the quaternary ammonium compound methylbis (hydrogenated tallow alkyl amidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, commercial name Varisoft 110, is used.

In Example 14, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methylbis (tallow alkyl amidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate, supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 222.

In Example 25, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallow alkyl ethyl-2-tallow imidazoline supplied by the company. Goldschmidt, developmental substance.

In Example 29, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallow alkyl amidoethyl-2-tallow imidazoline, supplied by the company. Goldscmidt, developmental substance.

In Example 30, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallow alkyl ethyl-2-tallow imidazolinium methylsulfate supplied by the company. Goldscmidt.

In Example 32, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallow amidoethyl-2-tallow imidazolinium methylsulfate supplied by the company. Goldscmidt, trade name Varisoft 475, Varisoft

445.

In Example 39, the quaternary ammonium compound N, N-dimethyl-N- (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N- (canolamidoethyl) amine supplied by the company is used. Kao.

In Example 40, the quaternary ammonium compound N, N-dimethyl-N- (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N- (canolamidoethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by the company is used. Kao.

In Example 42, the quaternary ammonium compound N, N'-bis (2-tallow alkyl ethyl) -N, Ν, Ν ', Ν'-tetramethylenediammonium dichloride disclosed in U.S. Patents 4,728,337, 4,721,512, U.S. Pat. 906 413, supplied by. Ciba-Geigy Corporation.

In Example 43, the quaternary ammonium compound N, N'-bis (2-canolylethyl) -N, N'-dimethyl-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,6-hexanediammonium methylsulfate disclosed in EP 0 patents is used. 503 155A1 and EPO 803 498, supplied by the company. Goldschmidt-Witco.

In Example 44, the quaternary ammonium compound di and oligoesters of the quaternary ammonium compounds produced by the reaction of fatty acid, difunctional (or multifunctional) acid and triethanolamine are used, followed by quaternization as disclosed in WO98 / 49 132, Kao and US 5,880,289 to Henkel.

Preparation

Examples containing component C

9 9 9999 99 ··

9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9

9 9999 9 9 9 999 9 «9 9 999 999 999 9 9 9 9 * 99 ♦ 9999

Mixture 1: The components of Group A are mixed together at a temperature above the transfer temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, leaving a predetermined portion of the quaternary ammonium compound and water aside. Mix thoroughly.

2. Mixture 2: The components of Groups B and C are mixed with the remaining parts of the quaternary ammonium compound and the water not used in mixture 1. The mixture is heated above the melting point of the quaternary ammonium compound and oils.

3. Mix mixtures 1 and 2 and allow to cool to 40 ° C, mix perfume.

For examples containing component D:

1. Mixture 1: The Group A components are mixed at a temperature above the transfer temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, leaving a predetermined portion of water aside. Mix thoroughly.

2. Mixture 2: Mix the ingredients of Group D with water not used in Mixture 1.

3. Mix mixtures 1 and 2 and the components of groups B and E and mix thoroughly.

The compositions of the above examples provide the skin with good properties, such as good moisturizing, moisturizing, good feel, softness and / or smoothness, with low levels of negative effects such as greasiness or tackiness.

Industrial applicability

The compositions of the present invention are suitable for skin care that provide the necessary moisture and softness, provide protection from ultraviolet radiation while having only a low level of negative effects such as grease or tackiness.

Claims (10)

PATENT CLAIMS A cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one quaternary ammonium component; and (b) at least one tanning component 2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising a skin benefit component. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, further comprising a skin benefit component selected from the group of moisturizers, emollients and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains a tanning component selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-paminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinamate, octocrylene, octylsalicylate, homomethylsalicylate, acid p-aminobenzoic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, DEA p-methoxycinamate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidenephen, acid ester 4 -N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains a tanning component in an amount of 0.01 to 20, preferably 0.1 to 10, percent by weight. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound has the general formula II or III: ( ^R 5> 4-m N ⁺ - (CH ₂ ) _n -QR ₆ ) _m χ (II) ( ^R s) 4-n -N -CH • ch ₂ • QQ-R ₆ and 9 9999 9 9 9 99 9 R _fi 9 « 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 98 9 9 (III) 99 99 9 9 9 9 • 99 8 9 9 9 Wherein each R 5 unit is independently hydrogen, branched or straight chain C 1 -C 6 alkyl, branched or straight chain C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl, and combinations thereof, preferably methyl or hydroxyethyl; each R 5 unit is independently linear or branched C 11 -C 22 alkyl, linear or branched C 11 -C 22 alkenyl, and mixtures thereof; X is an anion compatible with skin benefit agents and other ingredients; m is 1 to 4, preferably 2; n is 1 to 4, preferably 2 and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from groups 1 to 6: (1) O II (3) ( _{7) 7} (5) wherein R 7 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl and combinations thereof. (6) MM MM c c * 4 44 4444 4 4 4 43 4 ·· 44 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 44 9444 Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound is selected from the group consisting of N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) Ν, Ν-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyl- oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises vesicles comprising a quaternary ammonium compound together with a tanning component. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains less than 5, preferably less than 3, more preferably 0 weight percent of anionic surfactant. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for skin care.