CZ20014708A3 - Cosmetic composition and use thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium agent; (b) emollient; and (c) polar solvent; wherein the composition comprises vesicles, said vesicles comprising quaternary ammonium agent and emollient. The compositions of the present invention give good skin care benefits, such as good skin feel, good skin softness and/or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negatives such as greasiness, stickiness or tack.

Description

Technical field

Cosmetic compositions are disclosed. In particular, cosmetic compositions are described which guarantee that the skin is pleasant to the touch and / or soft.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The skin is made up of several layers of cells that cover and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. It is known that the top of these layers, called the horn layer, consists of 25 nm protein bundles surrounded by layers of 8 nm thickness. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically pass through the corner layer and remove the lipids, thereby breaking the integrity of the layer. This disruption of the topography of the skin surface results in a rough skin feeling and may eventually allow the surfactant or solvent to react with keratin, resulting in irritation.

It has been found that maintaining a suitable water gradient in the horned skin layer is important for its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes considered an emollient, comes from the body. If the humidity is too low, as in cold weather, there is not enough water left in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to soften the tissue, and the skin peels and itches. If there is a lack of water in the corner layer, the skin permeability also decreases. On the other hand, the large amount of water in the outer layer of the skin causes the accumulation of bound water in an amount corresponding to three to five times its own weight. This leads to swelling and wrinkling of the skin and to approximately two and three times the skin and water permeability increase.

• • •

Therefore, it is necessary to provide a means to help maintain a barrier and a water retention function in the corner layer of the skin corresponding to the optimum despite the harmful interactions that the skin is exposed to during washing, at work and during recreation.

Means have been developed in the past to assist the horn layer to maintain its barrier and water retention function.

Such cosmetic compositions have attempted to maintain these functions by using one or more of the compositions having beneficial effects on the skin. One way to achieve the desired positive effect is to incorporate moisturizing materials into the cosmetic composition. These emollients prevent loss of moisture from the skin and also have a protective function. However, they carry serious negative feelings (that is, often feel greasy skin) as well as prevent the absorption and passage of substances through the skin. An example of a wetting material is polyolpolyester oils. These compounds can be used in cosmetic compositions. US-A-6,013,271 discloses a skin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase comprising a liquid ester of carboxilic acid and a polyhydric alcohol, water and an amphiphilic emulsion material that forms organic liquid crystals . US-A-5,916,575 also discloses a non-emulsion cleaning composition comprising a foaming surfactant, water and an insoluble component to maintain an optimal skin condition, which may be a carboxylic acid ester and a polyhydric alcohol and an insoluble oil.

There appears to be a direct relationship between the amount of agent that is beneficial to the skin and the effectiveness of the composition when applied.

However, it may also be the case that a higher amount of the skin-beneficial agent also increases the risk associated with the negative effects. Therefore, to date, it is necessary to balance • · · · · · · ·

The beneficial effects of a composition comprising a plurality of agents that exhibit beneficial effects on the skin and adverse effects associated with high levels. Therefore, there remains a need to provide skin-friendly agents that have beneficial effects on the skin because of their good moisturizing, skin softness, skin feel and / or softness, while exhibiting a small number of negative effects such as tackiness and greasiness.

Quaternary ammonium agents are also used in cosmetic compositions (see WO-A-99/27 904, WOA-96/32 089 and EP-A-789 076). These cosmetic compositions comprise quaternary ammonium compounds having two alkyl groups containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, moisturizing agents and non-irritating hydrophobic microspheres having an average particle size of less It will be appreciated that hydrophobic polymeric mirkospheres substantially reduce stickiness associated with high levels of humectant The cosmetic composition disclosed in US-A-5,804,205 may also contain a small amount of emollients such as petrolatum or mineral oil.

It has unexpectedly been found that compositions comprising at least a quaternary ammonium agent, an emollient and a polar solvent, wherein the composition comprises vesicles comprising a quaternary ammonium agent and an emollient provide a high degree of associated positive effects such as good hydration, skin softness, skin feel and / or it is soft, but exhibits a low degree of negative effects such as tackiness and increased skin greasiness.

It is further believed that the quaternary ammonium reagents of the invention form vesicles that incorporate emollients. A polar solvent is necessary to control the formation of these vesicles. In addition, the emollients contained in the vesicles are in the form of emulsions to which they are formed. Dochází «occurs with a quaternary ammonium reagent. It is believed that vesicles guarantee a simple and uniform applicability of emoliants to the skin with minimal tack and increased grease. Even when the cosmetic composition contains an extremely high percentage of emollients up to, for example, 20% (w / w), it exhibits only a low degree of the usual negative effects. It is also believed that quaternary ammonium agents help reduce the loss of emollients from the skin caused by environmental factors such as water exposure and abrasion. However, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium agents themselves exhibit positive effects such as good hydration, skin softness, and that the skin is pleasant to feel.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one quaternary ammonium reagent; and (b) emollients; and (c) a polar solvent, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises vesicles comprising a quaternary ammonium reagent and an emollient.

The compositions of the invention exhibit positive skin care effects such as sufficient hydration, softness of the skin, the skin is pleasant to the touch and / or is soft and a low degree of negative effects such as increased skin greasiness or tackiness.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise at least one quaternary ammonium agent, an emollient and a polar solvent. These elements are described in more detail below.

The cosmetic compositions described can be used in any suitable manner. In particular, compositions which are suitable for topical application to the skin are described. The skin care compositions may be in the form of creams, solutions, gels and the like. The cosmetic compositions are preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion wherein the aqueous phase comprises one or more oil phases, each oil phase comprising one oil component or a mixture of oil components in miscible or homogeneous form, but said different oil oils. the phases comprise different materials or combinations of materials.

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably 0% (by weight) of anionic surfactant.

The compositions of the invention are preferably formulated to have a viscosity of at least about 1000 mPa · s, and preferably in the range of about 1,000 to about 300,000 mPa · s, more preferably in the range of about 2,500 to about 250,000 mPa · s. preferably from about 5,000 to about 200,000 mPa · s (at 26.8 CP52 / CP41).

´C, undiluted, Brookfield DV-II + Spindle

Quaternary ammonium reagent

The compositions of the invention must contain at least one quaternary ammonium reagent. Any quaternary ammonium reagent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used. The term "quaternary ammonium reagent" means a compound or mixture of compounds having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted with one or more, preferably two, moieties containing six or more carbon atoms. Quaternary ammonium reagents are preferably selected from those having quaternary ammonium nitrogen substituted by two moieties, each containing ten or more, preferably 12 or more, carbon atoms.

The compositions comprise at least 0.01%, more preferably, at least 0.1%, even more preferably at least 1.5%, more preferably at least 3% (w / w) quaternary ammonium reagent.

Quaternary ammonium reagents suitable for use are selected from:

(a) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula I

6 • · · » • · · · · · · • · · · · · · · · · · · • · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · • · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · Γ 1 R1 N ⁺ I r ₃ X ‘ I r ₄ - (and) where each symbol R _x a _R2 is Ci-C ₄ alkyl or C 1 - C ₄ hydroxyalkyl or hydrogen. Every symbol R ₃ and R ₄ are

an alkyl or alkenyl group having from about 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The symbol X is a salt-forming anion and is compatible with a quaternary ammonium compound and other adjuvant.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of this type are quaternized amines of formula I wherein R 1 and R ₂ are methyl or hydroxymethyl and R ₃ and R ₄ is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain containing at least 11 carbon atoms, preferably 15 carbon atoms .

(b) quaternary ammonium compounds according to general formula II or III ^{(R @} 5) 4-m N ⁺ - (- (CH _{2) n} -Q-R) _m

(R-skm-N ⁺ - (CH ₂ ) _n )

CH CH,

Q-Re

X ' ^J OH) wherein each R unit ₅ is independently selected from hydrogen, branched or straight chain C1-C6 alkyl, branched or straight chain hydroxyalkyl Οχ-Όβ and • · · · mixtures thereof being preferred, methyl and hydroxyethyl. Each R ₆ unit is independently linear or branched C 11 -C 22 alkyl, linear or branched C 11 -C 22 alkenyl, and mixtures thereof. The symbol X 'is an anion which is compatible with active skin care active ingredients and additives. M is 1 to 4, 2 is preferred, n is 1 to 4, 2 is preferred, and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from

O

II

-o — ci o

II

-c — oo

II o — c — or ₇ o

OR ₇

II I

C-N-

HC-OC wherein R ₇ is hydrogen, C 1 -C ₄ alkyl, C 1 -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof.

In the above-described example of a quaternary ammonium compound, the -QR ₆ unit comprises a fatty acyl unit, which is typically obtained from triglycerides. The triglyceride source is preferably obtained from tallow, partially hydrogenated tallow, lard, partially hydrogenated lard, vegetable oil and / or

4 * 4 4 4 4

44 4444 partially hydrogenated vegetable oils such as canola oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, tall oil oil, rice bran oil, etc., and mixtures thereof.

The symbol X 'in the compounds described above may be a compatible anion, preferably an anion of a strong acid such as chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, sulfate, nitrate, and the like. More preferred are chloride and methyl sulfate. Anion can also carry a double charge and in this case the symbol X 'represents half of the group.

Preferred Quart! the ammonium compounds of the invention are a diester and / or a diamide quaternary! ammonium compounds (DEQA), diesters and diamides of formula II wherein the carbonyl group Q is selected from:

O

II

-o — ci o

II

-CO-, and R ₇ on

I II

-N-CTal, canola and palm oil is a convenient and expensive source of the fatty acyl units used in the present invention as Rg units.

The counterion marked with X may be chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion marked with the X symbol is the counterion of the positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the invention is not limited to any particular anion.

• 9 · 9

99 99 99 99 9

When specifying a diester, it will include the monoester and triester that are normally present as a result of the preparation process.

(c) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula IV or V:

R ₁₀ - ^NH - ^C - ^R 9 o (IV) r ₉ -

N

AND

R ₁₀ OC R g θ (V) wherein R g is an acyclic aliphatic C 15 -C 21 hydrocarbon group and R 10 is a C 1 -C ₆ alkyl or alkylene group.

These ammonium compounds having a pKa greater than about 4 are capable of forming a cationic charge in situ when dispersed in an aqueous solution, wherein the pH of the final product is not greater than about 6.

(d) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula VI or VII

O (VI) · · φ · φ · · ·

wherein R ₉ and R ₁₀ are as specified above and R 11 is selected from C 1 -C 4 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups.

The counterion X may be chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion marked with X is present as the counterion of positively charged quaternary ammonium salts. The scope of the invention is not limited to any arbitrary anion.

(e) quaternary ammonium compounds of the general formula

wherein n is from 1 to 6, R ₉ is selected from acyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon groups and R ₁₂ is selected from C 1 -C ₄ alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups.

These ammonium compounds, which have a value of not more than about 4, are capable of forming a cationic charge in. 9 9 999 99 999 99 9999 when dispersed in an aqueous solution, meaning that the pH of the final product is not more than about 6.

The counterion labeled X may be chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion marked with X is present as the counterion of positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the invention is not limited to any particular anion.

(f) diquaternary ammonium compounds of formula X, XI, XII or XIII

Re-Q- (CH ₂ ) n -N- (k

- (CH ₂ ) ni ^p

-N? • (CH ₂ ) n Q -R e

2X (XII) 44 4444 4444 4444

OH

I _{(CH2) z}

Re-Q- (CK ₂ ) n N - (CH ₂ , n -Q 1 R ₅₎

I ©

- (CH ₂₎ NQN ^ - _(CH2) n-Rg _{(CH2) z}

OH

2X '(XIII) wherein R ₅ , R ₆ , Q, π and X "is as defined above in relation to formulas II and III and R ₁₃ is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkylene, with ethylene being preferred and z is from 0 to 4.

(g) mixtures of the above-described quaternary ammonium compounds.

Preferred quaternary ammonium reagents suitable for use herein are described in (b) above. Particularly preferred are diester and / or diamide quaternary ammonium compounds (DEQA) of formula II. Suitable diesters are described in formula II wherein R ₅ , R ₆ and X are as defined above and Q is

O

II

Preferred diamides suitable for use according to Formula II, wherein R 5, R 6 and X 'are as defined above and Q is

HIM

I II

N-N Preferred examples of quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N, N-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N-di (ka13). 999 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 (hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. N, N-di (isoanolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate is particularly preferred for use herein.

Although it is preferred to take a quart! ammonium compounds obtained from canolyl fatty acyl groups, other suitable examples of quaternary ammonium compounds were obtained from fatty acyl groups wherein the term "kanolyl in the above examples is replaced by" tallowyl, cocoyl, palmyl, lauryl, oleyl, ricinoleyl, stearyl, palmityl, which correspond to a triglycerode source from which fatty acyl units were obtained. These alternative fatty acyl sources may comprise an additional fully saturated or preferably at least partially saturated chain.

Emoliens

A very preferred component of the compositions of the invention is emollients. Emoliens tend to lubricate the skin, increase skin softness and softness, prevent skin dryness and protect it. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known which can be used according to the invention. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2 ^nd Edition, Vol. 1, s. 32-42 (1972) describes a number of examples of materials suitable for use as emollients. The compositions of the invention contain more than 1%, more preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 10% (w / w) emollients.

Emollients suitable for use in the present invention are selected from:

i) straight and branched carbon chains containing from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms, such as dodecane, squalane, petroleum jelly, cholesterol and its derivatives, hydrogenated polyvisobutyleny, isohexadecane and the _C7-C40 isoparaffins, which are branched hydrocarbons of C7-C40 · * 4 · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

-ι λ; · Ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii)) ii)))) esters of _Ci-C3 okarboxylových acids and C ₂ -C ₃ odikarboxylové acid and a C ₀ -C 3 alcohols, e.g. isononylisonananoát, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl stearate, behenylbehenát, dioctylmaleate, diisopropyl adipate and diisopropyl.

iii) monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of C 1 -C ₃ ocarboxylic acid and its ethoxylated derivatives can also be used. Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include PEG-20 almond glycerides,

PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-11 avocado glycerides, PEG6 carp / capry glycerides, PEG-8 carp / capry glycerides, PEG-20 corn glycerides, PEG-60 corn glycerides, PEG-60 primrose glycerides, PEG-7-glyceryl cocoate , PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-12 glyceryldiolate, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-75 cocoa glycerides 20 hydrogenated palm oil, PEG-70 mango glycerides, PEG-13 turkey glycerides, PEG-75 glycerides, PEG-10 olive glycerides, PEG-12 palm fruit glycerides, PEG-45 palm fruit core glycerides, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate and PEG -30 glyceryl laurate. Mixtures of polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides.

iv) C 1 -C ₃₀ alkylene glycol esters such as ethylene glycol monoester and ethylene glycol diester and propylene glycol mono ester and propylene glycol diester of C ₁ -C ₃ carboxylic acids such as ethylene glycol diesterate.

(v) organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil may be volatile, non-volatile or a mixture of volatile or non-volatile silicones. The term "non-volatile" is used in the context of the fact that these silicones, which are in liquid form at ambient conditions, exhibit an ignition temperature (at atmospheric pressure) of greater than about 100 ° C. Organopolysiloxanes of alkyl substituted ° C. The term "volatile" includes all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones that provide a wide range of volatility and viscosity values. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, filed Dec. 3, 1991. Preferred for use herein are selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, dimethycones, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. The use of polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones is highly preferred. Among the polyalkylsiloxanes, dimethicones are preferred.

(vi) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, heryne oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, rice oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, partially and completely hydrogenated oil from the aforementioned sources, and mixtures thereof.

(vii) Animal fats and oils, such as cod liver fat, lanolin and its derivatives, such as acetylated lanolin and isopropyllanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred.

viii) Also useful are C ₄ -C ₂₀ alkyl ethers of propylene glycols, C 1 -C ₂ carboxylic acid esters of propylene glycols and di-C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers, including, for example, PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyloctyl ether and mixtures thereof.

ix) polyolecarboxylic acid esters

x) and mixtures of the above.

Preferred emollients suitable for use in the compositions are selected from dodecanes, squalene, cholesterols and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, petrolatum, derivatives, safflower oil, castor oil, lanolin and its coconut oil.

0 0

0000 • 0 0 0 • 0 0

0 0 0 0

Cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, polyol carboxylic acid esters and mixtures thereof. More preferred emollients are selected from polyol carboxilic acid esters, petrolatum and mixtures thereof.

These esters were obtained from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the acid and sugar component present, these esters may be present in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, oleic fatty acid (unsaturated) glucose tetraesters, soybean mixed mannose tetraesters, oleic acid galactose tetraesters, arabinose arabinose tetraesters, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol sorbitol tetraoleate sorbitol sorbitol hexaesters oils, xylitolpentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatooleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include sorbitol hexaester in which portions of the carboxylic acid esters are palmitooleate and arachidate in a 1: 2 molar ratio. The raffinose octaester in which the ester moieties of the carboxilic acid are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3. Heptaester maltose, wherein the esterifying moieties of carboxylic acids are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerates in a molar ratio of 3: 4. Sucrose octaester wherein the esterifying fatty acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2: 6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose where the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laureate, linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3: 4 molar ratio. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8 and in which the fatty acid moieties are C18 mono-unsaturated and / or dinesatured and behenic in a molar ratio to unsaturated and behenic 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is the sucrose octaester which they contain in the molecule

about 7 parts of behenic fatty acid and about 1 part of oleic acid. Other materials include soybean oil fatty acid esters wherein the sugar component is sucrose. Ester materials are further described in U.S. Patent No. 2,831,854, U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196 (Jandacek, Jan. 25, 1977), U.S. Patent No. 4,005,195 (Jandacek, Jan. 25, 1977), U.S. Patent No. 5, No. 306,516 (Letton et al., Apr. 26, 1994), U.S. Patent No. 5,306,515 (Letton et al., Apr. 26, 1994), U.S. Patent No. 4,797,300 (Jandacek, Jan. 10, 1989); No. 3,963,699 (Rizzi et al., June 15, 1976), U.S. Patent No. 4,518,772 (Volpenhein, May 21, 1985) and U.S. Patent No. 4,517,360 (Volpenhein, May 21, 1985).

Polyesters of fatty acids and polyhydric alcohols are well known in the art. These methods include transesterification of a polyhydric alcohol with methyl fatty, ethyl fatty or glycerol fatty acid using various catalysts, acylation of polyhydric alcohols with fatty acid chloride, and acylation of polyhydric alcohols with fatty acid such as described in U.S. Patent 2,831,854; 4,005,196 (Jandacek, Jan. 25, 1977).

A particularly preferred material is known as sucrose polycottonseedate by INCI names.

Polar solvent

The compositions of the invention may also contain a polar solvent. Any polar solvent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used. The polar solvent must be sufficiently polar to control the formation of the vesicles of the invention. A preferred polar solvent of the invention that can be used in cosmetic compositions is water.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may preferably comprise from 10% to 90%, more preferably from 20% to 80% water,

99

5 · «•» «

4 ·

4 · · «4 4« 4

4 4 44 • · 9 · 4 ·· 99

99

4 4 «

9 4

4 «· 3

Even more preferably 30% to 60% (by weight) of a polar solvent is preferred.

Vesikuly

The cosmetic compositions of the invention must contain vesicles. Said vesicles contain quaternary ammonium reagents and emollients. The term "vesicle" means one or more double layers of closed, usually spherical shape, wherein the double layer comprises a quaternary ammonium agent as described above. In the cosmetic compositions described herein, the vesicles are preferably substantially spherical. The presence of vesicles in the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be detected by microscopic analysis (polarized light microscopy at 60X magnification using a Nikon Eclipse E800 microscope).

The size of the vesicles is on average 0.01 μιη to 30 μτη, with 0.02 μιη to 15 μπι being more preferred.

Other possible components

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may further comprise a wide range of other suitable ingredients. These other ingredients should be cosmetically and aesthetically acceptable. Such other possible components are well known in the art. These include cosmetically acceptable agents, as found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7 ^th edition, ed. Wenninger and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC, 1997). Some non-limiting examples of these ingredients are described below.

Moisturizing agent

A highly preferred component of the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a humectant. The term "moisturizing agent" refers to a compound that allows the skin to retain its ability to retain the skin. 4 4 «9 9 9 *

9 9

99 9 9 water. Preferably, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 1%, more preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 10%, even more preferably at least 20% by weight of the wetting agent.

Any humectant suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used. Non-limiting examples of suitable wetting agents suitable for use in the present invention are described in WO 98/22 085, WO 98/18 444 and WO 97/01326. Preferably, the humectants are selected from amino acids and derivatives thereof such as proline and arginine aspartate, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and water and codium comentosum extract, collagen amino acids or peptides, creatinine, diglycerol, biosaccharide gum-1, glucamine salts, salts glucuronic acids, glutamic acid salts, polyethylene glycol ethers of glycerin (e.g. glycereth 20), glycerin, glycerol monopropoxylate, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey and extracts or derivatives thereof, hydrogenated starch hydrolyzates, mucopolysaccharide hydrolysates, inositol, keratin amino acids, urea, LAREX A-200 available from Larex), glycosaminoglycans, methoxy PEG 18, methylgluceth-10 and methylgluceth-20 (both available from Amerchol, located in Edison, NJ), methylglucose, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, N-acetylglucosamine salts, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof (such as PEG 15 butanediol, PEG 4, PEG 5 pentaerythitol, PEG 6, PEG 8, PEG 9), pentaerythitol, 1,2-pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl ether, PPG-2,2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and its salts such as glyceryl pca, saccharide isomerate, SEACARE (available from Secma) , sericin, silk amino acids, sodium acetylhyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium sodium aspartate, sodium sodium glutamate, sorbeth 20, sorbeth 6, sugar and sugar alcohols and derivatives thereof such as glucose, mannose and polyglycerol sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolpropane yeast extract and mixtures thereof.

9 · ·· • 9 # 9 9 · · ·

99 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

Is selected from butylene glycol,. Even more from the group especially then

A humectant suitable for use in the group comprising glycerin, urea, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof is preferably a humectant selected from glycerin, urea and mixtures thereof, glycerin.

Other agents showing positive effects on the skin

Other agents that have a positive effect on the skin may be used according to the invention. Examples of other skin-positive agents that can be used according to the invention include:

(a) vitamin

The composition may include vitamin compounds, prodrugs, and derivatives thereof. These vitamin compounds may exist in either natural or synthetic form. Suitable vitamin compounds include vitamin A (e.g. beta-carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinylpropionate etc.), vitamin B (e.g. niacin, niacinamide, riboflavin, pantothenic acid etc.), vitamin C (e.g. ascorbic acid etc.). ), Vitamin D (e.g. ergosterol, ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol etc ..), Vitamin E (e.g. tocopherol acetate etc.) and Vitamin K (e.g. phytonadione, menadione, phthiocol, etc.). Preferred vitamin compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are vitamin B ₃ compounds. The vitamin B ₃ compound is particularly useful for controlling skin condition as described in WO-A-97/39 733. The compositions of the invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 50%. 10%, even more preferably about 0.5% to about 5% (by weight) of the vitamin B ₃ compound.

The term "vitamin B ₃ compound" means a compound of the formula:

Where R is -CONH ₂ (this is niacinamide), -COOH (it is »

nicotinic acid) or -CH ₂ OH (i.e. nd " cotinylalcohol), derivatives thereof and salts of any of the above-described compounds.

Examples of derivatives of the vitamin B ₃ compounds described above include nicotinic acid esters including non-vasodilating esters, nicotinylamino acids, nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acid esters, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide-N-oxide.

Examples of suitable vitamin B ₃ compounds are well known in the art and are commonly available from a variety of sources (e.g., Sigma Chemical Company, St. Louis, MO), ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and the Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI). Vitamin compounds may be included as substantially pure material or as extracts obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from a natural (e.g., plant source).

(b) Anti-Wrinkle and Anti-Skin Atrophy Agents Examples of anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy agents that may be used in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, lactic acid and derivatives thereof, retinoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g. cis and trans forms), retinol, retinyl ester, niaciamide, salicylic acid and its derivatives, sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, especially N-acetylderivatives, a preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine, thiols, e.g. ethanethiol, hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, and skin peeling agents (e.g., phenol and the like).

(c) Antimicrobial and antifungal agents.

- - - W ·

Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, beta-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2 '-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichloro-2'hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, hexamycutolide, clindamycutolide, clindamycutolide, clindamycutolide, clindamycutolide pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin, netilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, erythromycin, zinc erytromycinestolát, erytromycinstearát, amikycinsulfát, doxycyklinchlorid, kapreomycinsulfát, chlorohexidine gluconate, chlorhexidinhydrochlorid, chlortetracyklinchlorid, oxytetracycline chloride, clindamycin chloride, ethambutol chloride, metronidazolchlorid, pentamidinchlorid, gentamycin, kanamycin sulfate, lineomycinhydrochlorid, methacyklinchlorid, methenaminhippurát, methenaminmandelát, minocyklinchlorid, neomycin, netilmicinsulfát, paromomycinsulfát, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin, mikonazolchlorid, amanfadinchlorid, amanfadinsulfát, octopirox, parachlorometa, nystatin, tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione and clotrimazole.

(d) sunscreen agents

The compositions may also contain agents that protect the skin from sunlight. A wide variety of substances can be used which exhibit the indicated activity. These sunscreens include organic compounds and their salts as well as inorganic particulate materials. The agents are believed to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation by one or more of the following mechanisms. These mechanisms include ultraviolet absorption, scattering and reflection.

• I radiation. Non-limiting examples of agents that protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445 (Haffey et al., Feb. 11, 1992), U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372 (Turner et al., Dec. 17, 1991). U.S. Patent No. 5,073,371 (Turner et al., Dec. 17, 1991), U.S. Patent No. 5,160,731 (Sabatelli et al., Nov. 3, 1992), U.S. Patent No. 5,138,089 (Sabatelli, Aug. 11, 1992) ), U.S. Patent No. 5,041,282 to Sabatelli,

U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186 to Sabatelli et al.

U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370 (Sabatelli, Jan. 26, 1990) and Segarin, et al., Chapter VIII, p. 189, Cosmetics Science and Technology. Preferred sunscreen agents are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, octylsalicylate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, 2-ethylhexyl, N, N-dimethylaminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidizole -5-sulfonic acid, homomethylsalycilate, DEA p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethyne, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidenephen, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxybenzoylmethane, ester 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, ester

4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, ester

4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4- N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N ester, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N ester, N • · · · · · ·

- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

Sunscreening agents selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl-N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, octylsalicylate, homomenthylsalicylate, p-aminobenzoic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, DEA-p-methoxy cinnamate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 4-N, N- ester (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

The exact amount of sunscreen agents used varies depending on the selected and desired SPF (Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978) .

preferably it may contain any cosmetic composition.

Thickening agent

The composition according to the invention is a thickener. In this case, a thickening agent suitable for

Preferred thickeners are selected from nonionic water-soluble polymers, aliphatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Suitable non-ionic polymers include water-soluble polymers such as cellulose ethers hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, (e.g., hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose and polyesters (ethylene oxide), polyvinyl alcohol, hydroxypropylguarose cellulose, polyvinyl cellulose sucrose, ethyl amylcellulose, ethylamylcellulose, ethylamylcellulose). Suitable fatty alcohols have a higher molecular weight volatilize, • • · · · • • * · ^W · Λ i ···· ·· :: ^·:: «· '·· ·· ···· wherein the primary alcohols are characterized by the formula RCH 2 OH where R is C ₈ -2oalkyl. These substances can be produced from natural fats or oils by reducing the carboxyl group of fatty acids to a hydroxyl group. Alternatively, the same or similar structured aliphatic alcohols may be formed by conventional synthesis procedures well known in the art. Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, behenyl alcohol, Cg-Cnalkoholy, Cl 2-Cl ₃ alcohols, CI2 ^- Cx ₅ alcohols, CI2 ~ Ci6alkoholy, CI4 -C ₅ alcohols, caprylic alcohol, ketearylové alcohols, coconut alcohol, alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohols, lauryl alcohols, oleyl alcohols, palm kernel alcohols, stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, tallow alcohols, tridecyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol.

Other possible components

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may further comprise a wide range of other suitable ingredients. These additional components should be pharmaceutically acceptable. Non-limiting examples are functional classes of ingredients suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the invention include abrasives, absorbents, anti-acne agents, anti-pigmenting agents, anti-dandruff agents, antiperspirants, antioxidants, antiviral agents, artificial pigmenting agents and tanning agents, biological additives, bleaching agents, bleach activators, brighteners, fillers, buffering agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, coloring agents, cleaning agents, cosmetic astringens, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, deodorants, peeling agents, and cell release, depilators, medicinal anstringens, dyes, dye transfer agents, foam regenerators, flavors, enzymes, external analgesics, fragrances, insecticidal repellents, antifungal agents by him, nonsteroidal against · · 9 i i i: i i 9 ♦ - 9 - «9 9 i 9 -

9 · • ⁹ · · · «inflammatory agents, opacifying agents, oxidative dyes, oxidising agents, agents active against pests agent to help maintain pH such as citric acid, pH buffers, pharmaceutical actives, emollients, preservatives, radical scavengers , skin lightening agents, hair and nails, or nail, skin, hair conditioning, skin, hair and nail penetration enhancers, stabilizers, surfactants, surface conditioners, reducing agents, temperature reducing agents, viscosity adjusting agents and heat generators such as exothermic agents zeolites. Aesthetic components such as pigments, essential oils and skin healing agents are also useful. Other materials include pigments. The pigments suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the invention may be organic and / or inorganic substances. The term "pigment" also includes materials that prevent darkening of the skin and its excessive gloss and light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron (III) oxide, acyglutamate ferric oxide, titanium dioxide, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine and mixtures thereof.

Method of preparation

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably prepared in such a way that the quaternary ammonium compound forms vesicles. Preferably, they contain emollients. Preferably, they contain a humectant. For the purpose of providing said vesicles also in order to provide optimum performance characteristics, the cosmetic compositions of the invention may be prepared as follows:

(i) admixing all or part of the quaternary ammonium reagent with a humectant, a water-soluble active agent (if included), and preferably a polar solvent at a temperature above the melting point of the quaternary ammonium reagent; (Ii) The mixture is stirred (iii) An emulsion is prepared in a separate vessel as follows. The oily phase containing the emollient, the relevant thickener when said thickener is oil soluble, and any remaining quaternary ammonium reagent are mixed together at a temperature higher than the melting point of the quaternary ammonium compound. The aqueous phase is prepared separately. Water, if said thickener is water-soluble, and the remaining water-soluble components are heated to the same temperature as the oil phase.

(iv) The oil and water phase temperatures of the emulsion are then approximately the same, and the aqueous phase is then combined with the oil phase with stirring.

(v) To produce the emulsion, the mixture prepared in step (i) is added to the above emulsion and the mixture is vigorously stirred.

Method of use

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be used in a conventional manner in the treatment of the skin. An effective amount of the composition typically about 0.1 grams to about 50 grams, preferably from about 1 grams to about 20 grams, is applied to moist or dry, preferably wet, skin. Application of the composition typically involves introducing the composition into the skin with palms or fingers. The composition is then allowed to act on the skin or is preferably washed away.

The preferred skin treatment therefore comprises:

(a) applying an effective amount of a cosmetic composition to the skin; (b) washing the skin.

A preferred subject matter of the invention comprises the above method of applying a cosmetic composition to > 9

9 9

• 999 dry skin rather than applying the product to wet skin. Therefore, a preferred method of administration includes:

(i) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to dry skin, (ii) washing the skin under the shower, (iii) further applying said composition, and (iv) further washing.

Damage to human skin is caused by repeated exposure of the skin to surfactants during washing. It has been found that this damage can be partially reduced by using the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Therefore, another preferred method comprises:

(i) washing the skin using a cosmetic composition of the invention comprising a surfactant, (ii) flushing the skin, (iii) applying the cosmetic composition of the invention to wet skin, (iv) flushing the skin.

Furthermore, it has also been found that the cosmetic compositions of the invention are particularly useful when used as part of a daily routine treatment. Therefore, a further preferred method comprises:

(i) a cosmetic product is applied to the skin, comprising:

(a) at least one quaternary compound, (b) a humectant, and (ii) the skin is rinsed, (iii) after 48 hours, steps (i) and (ii) are repeated.

Cosmetic compositions may also be used to alleviate the damage caused by exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation, damage caused by exposure of the skin to water during swimming or exercise in water, damage caused by shaving or exfoliation, or damage caused by water during bathing.

<·

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples further describe preferred embodiments of the invention. Unless otherwise indicated, all ingredients are expressed as a percentage by weight of the active ingredient.

Example 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 weight% quaternary ammonium agent 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 AND glycerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND urea 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd AND vaseline 10 12 15 Dec 10 12 15 Dec (B) lanolin ¹ 7.5 5 15 Dec 10 10 (B) kor. lanolin ¹ 5 (B) super sterolester 5 (B) sef a cottonate 21 21 12 12 21 21 12 12 (B) dimethikon lOCst 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) dimethikon 1 OOOCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) florasun PEG-10 ² 2 2 3 1 3 (B) methylparaben 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 AND propylparaben 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 (B) dinatrium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND natriumbenzoate 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 0.3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 0.3 0, 3 0.3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 AND

• · ·

0 0 0 0

0 0

0 0 0 · a * a a a a a

tocopherol acetate 2 2 0, 5 2 2 2 0, 5 2 2 2 (B) retinol palmitate 0.1 0.0 5 0.1 (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0, 5 0, 1 1 1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 5 2.5 0.5 5 5 5 (B) kys. lemon 1 0.5 1 0, 5 0, 5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.7 5 1 1 1 AND kys. salicylová 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.7 AND triethanolamine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.9 0.5 C hydroxide sodium 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 C polykvaternium 10 1.0 0.5 0, 6 0.5 (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ 0.7 0.7 0, 8 (B) fragrance 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E cetylalkohol 3 2.6 2.2 2.2 2.5 C stearylalko -hol 2 1.5 3.2 1.1 1.6 C cetearyl alcohol 4 0.4 3.4 3.4 C behenyl alcohol 2 2 0, 6 0.7 C natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0, 6 0, 5 0.2 C natrosol 250 HHR 1 0.3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ 1,2 0.8 D Jaguar C14S ⁵ 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ 1,2 D xanthanová rubber 2.0 D

β ·

chloride sodium 0.1 0, 5 0, 2 0, 3 AND water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs AND

Example 14 15 Dec 16 17 18 19 Dec 20 May 21 22nd 23 24 25 26 imotnostní% quaternary ammonium agent 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 AND glycerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND urea 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd AND vaseline 10 12 15 Dec 10 12 15 Dec (B) lanolin ¹ 7.5 5 15 Dec 10 10 (B) kor. lanolin ¹ 5 (B) super sterolester 5 (B) sefa cottonate 21 21 12 12 21 21 12 12 (B) dimethikon lOCst 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 (B) dimethikon 1 OOOCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2, 5 2, 5 (B) florasun PEG-10 ² 2 2 3 1 3 (B) methylparaben 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 AND propylparaben 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 (B) dinatrium EDTA 0, 1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0, 1 AND natriumbenzoate 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 0.3 0, 3 0.3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 0, 3 0, 3 0, 3 0, 3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 AND tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0, 5 2 2 2 (B)

* · W · # ’· ···

retinol palmitate 0, 1 0, 0 5 0.1 5 (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0.5 0.1 1 1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 5 2.5 0, 5 5 5 5 (B) kys. lemon 1 0, 5 1 0.5 0, 5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.7 5 1 1 1 AND kys. salicylová 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.7 AND triethanolamine 0.1 0, 1 0.1 0.1 0.9 0, 5 C hydroxide sodium 0, 1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 C polykvaternium 10 1.0 0, 5 0, 6 0, 5 (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ 0.7 0.7 0, 8 (B) fragrance 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 E cetylalkohol 3 2, 6 2.2 2.2 2.5 C stearylalko -hol 2 1.5 3.2 1.1 1.6 C cetearyl alcohol 4 0.4 3.4 3.4 C behenyl alcohol 2 2 0, 6 0.7 C natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0, 6 0.5 0.2 C natrosol 250 HHR 1 0, 3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ 1,2 0, 8 D Jaguar C14S ⁵ 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ 1,2 D xanthanová rubber 2.0 D chloride sodium 0.1 0.5 0.2 0.3 AND

«9 * ♦ ··> ♦ · 1

water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs AND Example 27 Mar: 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 weight% quaternary ammonium reagent 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 AND glycerine 15 Dec 16 22nd 9 8 9 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND propylene glycol 16 5 12 AND butylene glycol 8 8 8 12 AND urea 12 2 9 AND vaseline 10 12 15 Dec 4 7.5 12 5 6 (B) lanolin ¹ 7.5 7.5 15 Dec 3.5 3 (B) kor. lanolin ¹ 7 6.7 6 (B) super sterolester 3.5 6.5 3 6 3 (B) isohexadecan 5 3 3 (B) isononylisononanoate 3 5 (B) sefa behanát 9 3 5 (B) sefa cottonate 21 21 12 12 13 8 8 12 10 (B) dimethikon XOCst 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) dimethikon 1 OOOCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) florasun PEG10 ² 2 2 3 1 3 2, 5 (B) methylparaben 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 AND propylparaben 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 (B) dinatrium EDTA 0.1 0, 1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0, 1 0, 1 AND natriumbenzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 5 3 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 3 1 AND tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 2 0, 5 (B) retinol palmitate 0.1 0, 05 0.1 (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0.5 1 1 1 0.1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 5 2.5 5 5 5 0.5 5 (B) citric acid 1 0, 5 1 0.5 0, 5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 1 AND

♦ · ·

kys. salicylová 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.7 0, 5 AND triethanolamine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.9 0, 5 C sodium hydroxide 0.1 0.1 0, 1 0.1 0, 1 0, 6 C polykvaternium 10 1.0 0.5 0.6 0, 5 1, 0 (B) polymer KG 30 ’ 0.7 0.7 0.8 0, 8 (B) fragrance 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 E cetylalkohol 3 2, 6 2.2 2.2 2.5 3, 2 C stearyl alcohol 2 1.5 3.2 1.1 1.6 2, 6 C cetearyl alcohol 4 0.4 3.4 3.4 C behenyl alcohol 2 2 0, 6 0.7 0, 2 C natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0, 6 0.5 0.2 0, 6 C natrosol 250 HHR 1 0, 3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar HP ¹⁰⁵ 1,2 0.8 D Jaguar C14S ¹ 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ 1,2 0, 8 D xanthanová rubber 2.0 D sodium chloride 0.1 0.5 0.2 0.3 0, 2 0, 1 AND water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs AND

Example 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 60 51 52 53 54 55 56 weight% quaternary ammonium reagent 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 AND glycerine 15 Dec 16 22nd 9 8 9 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND propylene glycol 16 5 12 AND butylene glycol 8 8 8 12 AND urea 12 2 9 AND vaseline 10 12 15 Dec 4 7.5 12 5 6 (B) lanolin ¹ 7.5 7.5 15 Dec 3.5 3 (B) kor. lanolin ¹ 7 6.7 6 (B) super sterolester 3.5 6, 5 3 6 3 (B)

* • ♦ «9 9 9 9 99 9 9 99 · 9 * 9 99 9 9 * Φ • · 9

9 9

9 9 • · · · · φ

isohexadecan 5 3 3 (B) isononylisononanoate 3 5 (B) sefa behanát 9 3 5 (B) sefa cottonate 21 21 12 12 13 8 8 12 10 (B) dimethikon lOCst 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) dimethikon 1 OOOCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) florasun PEG10 ² 2 2 3 1 3 2, 5 (B) methylparaben 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 AND propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 (B) dinatrium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0, 1 0, 1 AND natriumbenzoate 0, 3 0.3 0, 3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0, 3 0.3 0, 3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 5 3 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 3 1 AND tocopherol acetate 2 2 0, 5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 2 0, 5 (B) retinol palmitate 0.1 0, 05 0.1 (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0, 5 1 1 1 0.1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ⁵ 5 5 2.5 5 5 5 0.5 5 (B) citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0, 5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 1 AND kys. salicylová 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.7 0, 5 AND triethanolamine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.9 0.5 C sodium hydroxide 0, 1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0, 6 C polykvaternium 10 1.0 0, 5 0.6 0.5 1, 0 (B) polymer KG 30 ’ 0.7 0.7 0, 8 0, 8 (B) fragrance 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 E cetylalkohol 3 2.6 2.2 2.2 2.5 3, 2 C stearyl alcohol 2 1.5 3.2 1.1 1.6 2, 6 C cetearyl alcohol 4 0.4 3.4 3.4 C

9999

I 9 · ► · 9 »(

behenyl alcohol 2 2 0, 6 0.7 0, 2 C natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0.6 0, 5 0.2 0, 6 C natrosol 250 HHR 1 0.3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar HP 105 ¹ 1,2 0.8 D Jaguar C14S ¹ 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ 1,2 what about D xanthanová rubber 2.0 D sodium chloride 0.1 0, 5 0.2 0.3 0, 2 0, 1 AND water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs AND

available from Croda available from available from available from Floratech, AZ, USA from Hoffman La Roche, NJ, USA from Amerchol, NJ, USA from Rhodia, NJ, USA • In Examples 1, 4, 7, 9, 17 , 20, 22, 24, 28, 36, 38, 47, 49, 53, 56 the quaternary ammonium compound is diesteryldimethylammonium chloride from Goldschmidt, a trademark of Varisoft TA100.

In Examples 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 10, 15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23, 26, 27, 31, 33, 34, 35, 37, 41, 45, 46, 48, 50 51, 52, 54, 55, the quaternary ammonium compound is N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate from Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat V3620.

In Example 11, the quaternary ammonium compound is N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate from Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat WE18.

The quaternary ammonium compound used in Example 12 is N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride from Goldschmidt, developed (WE25).

In Example 13, the quaternary ammonium compound is methylbis (hydrogenated tallowamidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium-

· «3 ♦»

methyl sulfate from Goldschmidt, trademark Varisoft 110.

In Example 14, the quaternary amonna compound is methylbis (tallowamidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate from Goldschmidt, trademark Varisoft 222.

In Example 25, the quaternary ammonium compound is methyl-1-tallowoylethyl-2-tallowimidazoline from Goldschmidt, a developing material.

In Example 29, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallowamidoethyl-2-tallowimidazoline from Goldschmidt, a developed material.

In Example 30, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallowamidoethyl-2-tallowimidazolinium methyl sulfate from Goldschmidt.

• In example 32 used by Quart! the ammonium compound is methyl-1-tallowamidoethyl-2-tallowimidazolinium methylsulfate from Goldschmidt, trademark Varisoft 475, Varisoft 445.

• In Example 39 used by Quart! the ammonium compound is N, N-dimethyl-N- (kanoyloxyethyl) -N- (canolamidoethyl) amine, from Kao.

• In Example 40 used by Quart! the ammonium compound is N, N-dimethyl-N- (canolyloxyethyl) -N- (canolamidoethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate from Kao.

• In Example 42 used by Quart! the ammonium compound is N, N'-bis (2-taloyloxyethyl) -Ν, Ν, Ν ', N'-tetramethylenediammonium dichloride, as described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,728,337, 4,721,512, 4,906,413 from Ciba-Geigy Corp ..

• In Example 43 used by Quart! the ammonium compound is N, N-bis (2-canolyloxyethyl) -N, N'-dimethyl-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) 1,6-hexanediammonium methylsulfate as described in EP 0 503 155 A1 and EP 0 803 498 from Goldschmidt-Witco.

• ·

1 ·· • ·

The quaternary ammonium compound used in Example 44 is the diester and oligoester of the quaternary ammonium compounds prepared by the reaction of a difunctional (or multifunctional) fatty acid and triethylamine followed by quaternization as described in WO 98/49 132 (Kao) and US 5 880 289 (Henkel) ).

Example 57: A method for preparing the compounds of the Examples that include Component C

1. mixture 1: combine the Group A components at a temperature above the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, in particular maintaining a predetermined portion of the quaternary ammonium compound and water. This mixture was still stirred.

2. mixture 2: combine the components of group B and C with the remaining parts of the quaternary ammonium compound and water not used in the preparation of mixture 1. The mixture was heated to a temperature above the melting point of the oils.

3. Combine mixtures 1 and 2 and allow the resulting mixture to cool to 40 ° C and then mix the fragrance.

Example 58: Process for the preparation of the compounds of Examples, which include component D

1. mixture 1: combine the Group A components at a temperature above the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, in particular maintaining a predetermined portion of the quaternary ammonium compound and water. This mixture was still stirred.

2. mixture 2: combine with stirring the Group D component with water not used in the preparation of mixture 1.

3. Combine mixtures 1 and 2 and the components of groups B and E. The mixture is constantly stirred.

The compositions described in the above examples exhibit positive skin effects such as good moisturizing, softness of the skin, skin pleasant to the touch and / or soft, and 9

the compositions exhibit few side effects such as excessive grease and tackiness.

• · · • · 4 4 4 4 4 4 · «

Claims (1)

PATENT CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic means characterized by that it contains (a) at least one quaternary ammonium reagent selected from A) quaternary ammonium compounds of the formula II; III (R ₅ ) ₄ - _m -N ⁺ - (- (CH ₂ ) _n QR ₆ ) m X ' (II) (R-S m m) -Ν ⁺ -γ (ΟΗ ₂ ) _η CH CH ₂ Q— ^-R ^ 6 m X 1 QR ₆ (III) wherein each R ₅ unit is independently selected from hydrogen, branched or straight chain C 1 -C ₆ alkyl, branched or straight chain C 1 -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof, each R ₆ unit is independently linear or branched C 1 -C ₂₂ alkyl, linear or branched Cn- _C22 alkenyl and mixtures thereof, X is an anion which is compatible with skin care active ingredients and additives, m is 1 to 4, preferably 2, n is 1 to 4, preferably 2, and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from -o — c5 O II -c — o9 O II -o — c — o9 r ₇ o I II -NC- • «• * ·· φφ • Φ ¹ ♦ · ··· φ φφφφ II R? R ₇ Ο HC-Ο-C wherein R ₇ is hydrogen, C 1 -C ₄ alkyl, C 1 -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof. B) a quaternary ammonium compound of formula IV or V (V) wherein R 8 is an acyclic aliphatic C 15 -C 21 hydrocarbon group and R ₁₀ is a C 1 -C 6 alkyl or alkylene group, C) quaternary ammonium compounds of the general formula VI or VII wherein R ₉ and R ₁₀ are specified above in B), X is specified above in A) and R 11 is selected from C 1 -C 4 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups. D) quaternary ammonium compounds of the general formula VIII or IX (VIII) 4 X7 o R-12 I © N- (CH ₂ ) _n -NR ₉ I ** R ₁₂ (IX) wherein n is from 1 to 6, R ₉ is selected from acyclic aliphatic C 15 -C ₂ hydrocarbon groups and R ₁₂ is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl; and E) diquaternary ammonium compounds of the general formula X, XI, XII or XIII f 1 R ₁ -Q- (CH ₂ ) n] -N- (CH ₂ ) n Q- (CH ₂ ) n Q N - [(CH ₂₎ ) nQR j Rs 2X '(xii) • ΟΗ (CH ₂ ) _z R ₆ -Q- (CH ₂ ) n • · < • φφφφ • Φ 4 · • Φ Φ · (Η Η ₂ ) _ζ OH ΦΦ • Φ Φ Φ Φ • Φ Φ 2X '(XIII) wherein R ₅ , R ₆ , Q, on X - is as defined above in relation to formulas II and III and R ₁₃ is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkylene groups, with ethylene and z is from 0 to 4, (b) an emollient, and (c) a polar solvent, wherein the composition comprises vesicles comprising said quaternary ammonium reagent and said emollient. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least 0.01%, more preferably at least 1% (by weight) of said quaternary ammonium reagent. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising at least 1%, more preferably at least 5% (by weight) of said emollient. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emollient is selected from dodecane, squalene, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane, isononylisononanoate, petrolatum, lanolin derivatives thereof, safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, polyhydric alcohol esters and mixtures thereof. ··· 44> 4 · · • j; * · · · · · 444 • 4 · 4 · « _M claims, average • * · 4 * 4 4 4 • 4 A composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the vesicles are from 0.01 µm to 30 µm, preferably from 0.02 µπ to 15 µιη. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium reagent is selected from reagents of the formulas II or III (R ₅ ) ₄ - _m -N - (- (CK ₂ ) _n -QR ₆ ) m (Π (R ₅ ) ₄ . _m -N ⁺ - ^ (CH ₂ ) _n CH CK ₂ Q Re) Q-Re (III) wherein each R 5 unit is independently selected from hydrogen, branched or straight chain C 1 -C ₆ alkyl, branched or straight chain C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and mixtures thereof, each R ₆ unit is independently linear or branched Cn- C ₂₂ alkyl, linear or branched C ₁₁ -C ₂₂ alkenyl and mixtures thereof, X is an anion which is compatible with active skin care and adjuvants, m is 1 to 4, preferably 2, n is preferred has a value of from 1 to 4, preferably 2, and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from O II --about what II • —c — oo II -o-c-o-- * 9 9 9 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Φ · φφ ί · · · * φ ♦ φ · · • φ Φ · ·· · ο Α r ₇ II I R ₇ ο -HC-Ο-C wherein R ₇ is hydrogen, C 1 -C ₄ alkyl, C 1 -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium reagent is selected from N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N, N-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate, N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. 8. Means according to arbitrary previous claims, .... j í c and s e that polar solvent is water • 9. Means according to any from the previous claims, .... j í c and are you m that extra contains humidifier. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the treatment of skin.