Strange Ground is an occasional series about particular places and the ways they resist easy explanation. Some pieces approach landscapes through history and reputation; others are closer to field reports, written from within the site itself. Rather than smoothing these perspectives into a single account, the series lets their contradictions stand. You can find the rest of the pieces collected here.

I arrived in search of a bronze-age barrow and found a barely perceptible uniformity in an expanse of otherwise uneven land. The monument is so hard to spot that a corner of it was carved off when the council built the road. The only unambiguous sign of human improvement is a roadside marker in the shape of a Star of David.
I pass through a gate and set off across open moorland. There are posts indicating the existence of bridleways but the closest thing to laid paths are conspicuous gaps in expanses of wild grass; reeds on the way back, something finer and golden on the way there. This land was once part of the 10,000 acre Knight estate, bought from the King for a song and the first step on Exmoor’s journey from Royal Forest to whatever it is to become tomorrow. Knight took over Exmoor on the understanding that it would be brought to heel by advances in modern farming but few of these innovations remain and those that do are easily confused with either abandoned modern buildings or ancient ruins. To my left, shin-high earthworks that once marked the edges of a field. To my right, a trench dug for training exercises in the run-up to the Second World War. Improvements may come and improvements may go but the moor remains.
Continue reading →















