WO2024246818A1 - Long lasting cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed is a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic composition that includes (a) at least one polyglycerol-type surfactant; (b) a resin; (c) a solvent comprising at least one polar oil and at least one non-polar oil; and (d) water.

Description

LONG LASTING COSMETIC COMPOSITION

PRIORITY

The present application claims priority to U.S. provisional application No. 63/505,203 filed May 31, 2023, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

FIELD

The present disclosure relates in general to cosmetic compositions, such as water-in-oil cosmetic compositions.

SUMMARY

According to one embodiment, a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic composition comprises (a) at least one polyglycerol-type surfactant; (b) a resin; (c) a solvent comprising at least one polar oil and at least one non-polar oil; and (d) water.

FIGURE

The figure is a plot comparing average evaluation scores for the composition of Example 1 (left columns) and a commercial composition (right columns).

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

Unless otherwise specified “a” or “an” means one or more.

As used herein, the term “about” placed before a specific numeric value may mean ±20% of the numeric value; ±18% of the numeric value, ±15% of the numeric value; ±12% of the numeric value; ±8% of the numeric value; ±5% of the numeric value; ±3% of the numeric value; ±2% of the numeric value; ±1% of the numeric value or ±0.5% of the numeric value.

All content information for ingredients of compositions expressed as percent (%) refers to percent (%) by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, unless specified otherwise.

As used herein, the expression “water-in-oil composition” and related expressions refers to an water-in-oil type emulsified composition in which an aqueous (water) phase is dispersed in an oil phase. As used herein, the expression “microplastic particles” refers to particles containing a solid polymer, to which additives or other substances may have been added, and where > 1% w/w of particles have (i) all dimensions 0.1pm < x < 5mm, or (ii), for fibres, a length of 0.3 pm < x < 15mm and length to diameter ratio of >3.

The expression “particles containing a solid polymer” refers either (i) a particle of any composition with a continuous solid polymer surface coating of any thickness or (ii) particles of any composition with a solid polymer content of > 1% w/w.

1,4-di oxane and ethylene oxide impurities of polyethylene glycol (PEG)-containing surfactants may present concerns for satisfying “clean beauty” requirements, such as safety, non-toxicity and transparency in labeling, for cosmetic products.

Some consumers have also environmental concern about a low biodegradability of silicone. Many water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic products use bentonite-gel systems with PEG- containing surfactants, silicone containing surfactants and/or silicone solvents, such as silicone oils, e.g. cyclomethicone (D5) and dimethicone. Eliminating PEG containing surfactants, silicone containing surfactants and/or silicone solvents can often negatively affect stability of cosmetic product and/or its sensorial properties.

In addition, many water-in-oil cosmetic compositions may have their oil phase separated over time and need therefore to be shaken up before the use. Furthermore, a color of stored water- in-oil cosmetic products may change due to pigment migration and agglomeration within a composition of the product.

The present disclosure provides a water-in-oil type emulsified composition, which may have improved stability. Specifically, the present composition may avoid oil phase separation over a period of at least one week, or at least two weeks, or at least three weeks or at least four weeks at room temperature, and/or at an elevated temperature such as 37°C, 45°C or 50°C, and/or a decreased temperature, such as 0°C or -5°C.

The present composition may also avoid color change due to pigment migration. The present composition may maintain sensory values, such as creaminess and ease of application. In many embodiments, the present composition may contain no PEG surfactant. In many embodiments, the present composition may contain to PEG based ingredients. The composition may be a long wear composition. As used herein, the term “long wear” means that the composition may be worn for at least 4 hours up 24 hours or for at least 6 hours up to 24 hours or for at least 8 hours up to 24 hours or at least for at least 10 hours up to 24 hours or for at least 12 hours up to 24 hours or for at least 14 hours or for at least 16 hours or for at least 18 hours without interruption of esthetical appearance. Without being limited by any theory, the long wear effect of the composition may be provided by a combination of (a) one or more film formers, such as a silicone resin, which may be an MQ resin, such as trimetylsiloxysilicate; and/or a natural resin, such as rosinate, e.g. glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate, or a fatty acid ester, which may be a resinous fatty acid ester, such as dextrin isostearate, and (b) a thickener, such as at least one hydrophobic mineral gelling agent, which may be for example, bentone gel, in the composition.

The present composition may provide creamy, smooth natural finish and/or blurring. Without being limiting by any theory, such effect(s) of the composition may be provided by treated powders, such as stearic acid treated powders, e.g. titanium dioxide powder treated with stearic acid, in the composition.

The present composition may have a lightweight texture with a silky feeling. Without being limited by any theory, such property(s) may be provided by an oil phase, which may be a non-silicone volatile oil phase, of the composition.

In some embodiments, the composition may be free of silicon solvent(s), such as cyclomethicone (D5) and dimethicone. In many embodiments, the composition may be free of silicone surfactant(s), such as dimethicone containing surfactant(s). In many embodiments, the composition may free of silicone emulsifier(s).

In some embodiments, the present composition may be free of synthetic polymers.

In some embodiments, the present composition may be free of any polyethylene glycol containing ingredients, such as PEG-containing surfactants, any polymeric ingredients, such as (meth)acrylates or (meth)acrylamide; and/or any silicones, such as silicone solvents and silicone surfactants, with the exception of a silicone resin.

In some embodiments, the present water-in-oil type emulsified composition may include (a) at least one polyglycerol-type surfactant; (b) a film former, such as a resin, which may be a natural resin and/or a silicone resin; (c) a solvent comprising at least one polar oil and at least one non-polar oil; and (d) water.

The present composition may be used in a number of color cosmetics products. In addition, applications of the present composition may include skin care products, sun care products, deodorants or hair products. In some embodiments, the composition may be a lip composition, such as a lipstick or lip balm composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be a blush composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be a foundation composition, such as a solid foundation composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be a concealer composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be a complexion composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be an eyebrow composition, such as a solid or liquid eyebrow composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be an eyeshadow composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be a mascara composition.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be used alone. In other words, the composition may be applied alone, without another composition, to a keratinous surface or substrate, such as skin, e.g. lips, eyelids, face, or hair, of a subject, such as a human.

In some embodiments, the composition, which may be a cosmetic composition, may be used together with another product, for example, a top coat, a primer, or a powder.

As used herein, the term “water-in-oil type emulsified composition” refers to a composition in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in an oil phase.

Film Former

The film former may comprise at least one resin or a resin composition. The film former, such as a resin or a resin composition, may be in the oil phase of the cosmetic composition.

In some embodiments, the resin or the resin composition may be a natural resin or a natural resin composition, which may be a resin or a resin composition from a plant. In some embodiments, the resin or the resin composition may be a silicone resin or a silicone resin composition.

An amount of the at least one resin in the composition may vary. In some embodiments, the content of the at least one resin may be from about 1.0 mass % to about 40.0 mass %, from about 2.0 mass % to about 35.0 mass % or from about 3.0 mass % to about 30.0 mass % or from about 5.0 mass % to about 20 mass % or from about 7.5 mass% to about 12.5 mass%.

Natural resin

In some embodiments, a natural resin or a natural resin composition may be in the oil phase of the cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the natural resin or the natural resin composition may include rosin or a rosin derivative, such as a rosinate, i.e. a salt or ester or mixture of salts and esters prepared from rosin. For example, in some embodiments, the natural resin or the natural resin may comprise glyceryl rosinate, such as glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate. In some embodiments, the natural resin composition may also include in addition to rosin or rosin derivatives, one or more additional ingredients, such as a solvent, which may be a non-polar solvent, such as C9-12 alkane, and a vitamin, such as a tocopherol. Exemplary natural resin compositions include KOBOGUARD® NATURAL 2063 -ND A (Glyceryl Hydrogenated Rosinate (And) C9-12 Alkane (And) Tocopherol) and KOBOGUARD® NATURAL 2063 -OCT (Glyceryl Hydrogenated Rosinate (And) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (And) Tocopherol). KOBOGUARD® NATURAL 2063-NDA and KOBOGUARD® NATURAL 2063-CCT contain 50 mass % of a resin, i.e. of glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate.

An amount of a rosinate, e.g. glyceryl rosinate, such as glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate, in the cosmetic composition can vary. In some embodiments, a mass content of a rosinate, e.g. glyceryl rosinate, such as glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate, in the cosmetic composition may be from 1.25 mass % to 10 mass % or from 1.5 mass % to 8 mass % or from 1.75 mass % to 6 mass % or from 2 mass % to 4 mass % or from 2 mass % to 3 mass % or about 2.5 mass % or any value or subrange within those ranges.

Glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate that may be used in the cosmetic composition, are disclosed,

In some embodiments, the natural resin or the natural resin composition may include fatty acid esters, which may be a resinous fatty acid ester, such as dextrin isostearate. One exemplary natural resin composition may be UNIFILMA HVY (dextrin isostearate).

Dextrin isostearate that may be used in the cosmetic composition is disclosed, for example in U.S. Patent No. 5,840,883. An amount of a fatty acid ester, e.g. a resinous fatty acid ester, such as dextrin isostearate, in the cosmetic composition may vary. In some embodiments, a mass content of a fatty acid ester, e.g. a resinous fatty acid ester, such as dextrin isostearate, in the cosmetic composition may be from 1 mass % to 15 mass or from 2 mass % to 10 mass % or from 2.5 mass % to 8 mass % or from 3 mass % to 6 mass % or from 3 mass % to 5 mass % or about 4 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include more than one, e.g. two or three, natural resins. For example, the cosmetic composition may contain two or more of KOBOGUARD® NATURAL 2063 -ND A, KOBOGUARD® NATURAL 2063 -OCT and/or UNIFILMA HVY. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may contain two or more of KOBOGUARD® NATURAL 2063-NDA and UNIFILMA HVY.

In some embodiments, when the cosmetic composition contains a natural resin or a natural resin composition, the cosmetic composition does not contain any silicone containing component.

An amount of the natural resin or the natural resin composition in the cosmetic composition may vary. In some embodiments, the total content of the natural resin or the natural resin composition from about 1.0 mass % to about 40 mass %, from about 2.0 mass % to about 35.0 mass % or from 2.25 mass % to 30 mass % or from about 2.25 mass % to about 25 mass % or from about 3 mass % to about 20 mass % or from about 4 mass% to about 15 mass % or from about 5 mass % to about 10 mass % or from about 5 mass % to about 8 mass % or from about 5.5 mass% to about 7.5 mass % or from about 6 mass % to about 7 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.

Silicone resin

The cosmetic composition may comprise at least one silicone resin which may be a solid or a liquid. In some embodiments, at least one silicone resin may be in the oil phase of the cosmetic composition. The term “silicone resin” may mean a multidimensional structure, such as, for example, a branched or a cage-like structure, with a basic backbone polymer structure comprising or made of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms. Silicone resins, which are also known as siloxane resins, may be described using the "MDTQ" nomenclature, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter “M” represents a mono-functional unit of formula R1R.2R.3SiO, with the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen.

The letter “D” represents a di-functional unit RiIQSiCh in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

The letter “T” represents a trifunctional unit of formula RiSiCh, in which the silicon atom is bonded to three oxygen atoms.

The letter “Q” represents a quarto-functional unit of formula Si O4, in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms.

Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and U.S. patents Nos. 2,676,182, 3,627,851, 3,772,247, 5,248,739, 5,082,706, 5,319,040, 5,302,685 and 4,935,484.

In the units M, D and T, Ri functional groups, i.e. Ri, R2 and R3, may be the same or different. Each of Ri, R2 and R3 may be, for example, a hydrocarbon-based radical, such as an alkyl group, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, including a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.

Various silicone resins with different properties may be obtained from various combinations of units, the properties of these polymers varying as a function of the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of the radical(s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains. A silicone resin used in the composition may be, for example, of a silicone resin of MQ type, a silicone resin of T type, a silicone resin of MQT type or a combination thereof. The use of D unit may be optional. However, it may be preferred that a silicone resin, such as an MQT resin, does not contain any D unit(s). In some embodiments, the at least one silicone resin may comprise at least one MQT silicone resin, which may be for example, a phenyl modified MQT silicone resin (MQT-Ph resin). In some embodiments, the silicone resin may be an MQ resin, such as, for example, trimethylsiloxysilicate.

Silicone resins, which may be used in the cosmetic composition, are disclosed, for example, U.S. Patents Nos. 5,110,890, 5,075,103, 5,063,254, as well as in US2022409501 and US2009017081.

Silicone resins, which may be used in the cosmetic composition, are also disclosed, for example, in CN115040419, JP7103801, CN114404313, US Patents Nos. 11554086 and 10703913, W022144700.

An amount of the at least one silicone resin in the composition may vary. In some embodiments, a content of the at least one silicone resin may be from about 1.0 mass % to about 40.0 mass %, from about 2.0 mass % to about 35.0 mass % or from about 3.0 mass % to about 30.0 mass % or from about 5.0 mass % to about 20 mass % or from about 7.5 mass% to about 12.5 mass%.

In some embodiments, the silicone resin may be the only silicone containing component of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone resin, such as an MQ resin, e.g. trimethylsiloxysilicate, may be the only resin in the composition. In some embodiments, when the composition contains at least one silicone resin, the composition does not contain a natural resin.

Water

Water, which is a component of the aqueous phase of the composition, may constitute from 5 mass % to 40 mass % or from 10 mass % to 40 mass % or from 20 mass % to 40 mass % or from 25 mass % to 35 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.

Polyglyceryl surfactants

The composition contains at least one polyglyceryl surfactant, which may be for example, dissolved in the oil phase.

At least one polyglyceryl surfactant may be selected from polyglyceryl 2 surfactants, polyglyceryl 3 surfactants, polyglyceryl 4 surfactants, polyglyceryl 5 surfactants, polyglyceryl-6 surfactants, polyglyceryl 7 surfactants, polyglyceryl 8 surfactants, polygly ceryl 9 surfactants, polyglyceryl 10 surfactants, polyglyceryl 11 surfactants, and polygly ceryl 12 surfactants.

Exemplary polyglyceryl surfactants include, but not limited to, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Decalinoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Decaoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Decacasterate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Didecanoate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Poly glyceryl- 10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Myristate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl- 2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl- 6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 Oleate, Poly glyceryl- 10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentalaurate, Poly glyceryl- 10 Pentalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyrisinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-8 Stearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, and Polyglyceryl- 10 Tristearate. In some embodiments, at least one polyglyceryl surfactant may be at least one polyglyceryl 3 surfactant and/one at least one polyglyceryl 6 surfactant.

In some embodiments, at least one polyglyceryl surfactant may be selected from at least one polyglyceryl X stearate type surfactant, such as polyglyceryl X stearate, polyglyceryl X isostearate, polyglyceryl X hydroxystearate, polyglyceryl X distearate, polyglyceryl X diisostearate, polyglyceryl X tristearate, polyglyceryl X triisostearate; polyglyceryl X tetrastearate; polyglyceryl X tetraisostearate, and at least one polyglyceryl Y rinocinoleate, such as polyglyceryl Y polyrinoleate. X and Y each independently may be an integer ranging, for example, from 2 to 12.

In some embodiments, the least one polyglyceryl surfactant may include at least two polyglyceryl surfactants.

In some embodiments, at least two polyglyceryl surfactants may include at least one polyglyceryl 3 surfactant and at least one polyglyceryl 6 surfactant.

In some embodiments, at least two polyglyceryl surfactants may include at least one polyglyceryl X stearate type surfactant, such as polyglyceryl X stearate, polyglyceryl X isostearate, polyglyceryl X hydroxystearate, polyglyceryl X distearate, polyglyceryl X diisostearate, polyglyceryl X tristearate, polyglyceryl X triisostearate; polyglyceryl X tetrastearate; polyglyceryl X tetraisostearate, and at least one polyglyceryl Y rinocinoleate, such as polyglyceryl Y polyrinoleate. X and Y each independently may be an integer ranging, for example, from 2 to 12.

In some embodiment, the at least two polyglyceryl surfactants may include polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-3 diisosterate.

In some embodiments, the at least two polyglyceryl surfactants may include polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate. In some embodiments, the at least two polyglyceryl surfactants may include at least two surfactants polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-3 diisosterate. In some embodiments, the at least two polyglyceryl surfactants may include each of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisosterate and polyglyceryl-6- polyhydroxystearate.

In some embodiments, the composition does not include polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. In some embodiments, the at least two polyglyceryl surfactants may comprise Emulium Illustro®, which is polyglyceryl 6-polyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate. Emulium Illustro® is commercially available by GATTEFOSSE, France. Surfactants, such as Emulium Illustro®, are disclosed in US2021228458 and W019239060, each of which is incorporated herein by reference.

In some embodiments, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate may provide the water-in-oil emulsified composition with good stability with no separation between phases and good spreadability.

An amount of the at least one polyglyceryl surfactant in the composition may vary. In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl surfactant may constitute from 0.5 mass % to 15 mass % or from 1 mass % to 15 mass % or from 1 mass % to 10 mass % or 2 mass % to 6 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.

In some embodiments, an amount of polyglyceryl rinocinoleate, such as polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, may be from 0.2 mass % to 10 mass % or from 0.3 mass % to 6 mass % or from 0.4 mass % to 3 mass % or from 0.5 mass % to 2 mass % of the composition.

In some embodiments, an amount of polyglyceryl diisostearate, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, may be from 0.3 mass % to 10 mass % or from 0.4 mass % to 6 mass % or from 0.5 mass % to 4 mass % or from 1 mass % to 3 mass % of the composition.

Solvent

The solvent comprising at least one polar oil and at least one non-polar oil may be a component of the oil phase of the water-in-oil type emulsified composition. An amount of such solvent in the composition may vary. In some embodiments, an amount of such solvent may be from 0.5 mass % to 20 mass % or from 1 mass % to 20 mass % or from 1 mass % to 15 mass % or from 1 mass % to 10 mass % or from 2 mass % to 7 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.

Polar Oil

The term "polar oil" means any lipophilic (hydrophobic) compound having, at 25°C, a solubility parameter 5a characteristic of dispersive interactions of greater than 16 and a solubility parameter 6_P characteristic of polar interactions of strictly greater than 0. The solubility parameters 5a and 6_P are defined according to the Hansen classification. For example, these polar oils may be chosen from esters, triglycerides and ethers.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- 6_P characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and

- 5a is determined by the equation: 5_a = (6_P ² + 5h²)^1/2.

The parameters 5_P, 5h, 5p and 5_a are expressed in (J/cm³)^1/2

The polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro oil.

These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

The polar oil may have a surface tension of greater than 10 mN/m at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure. The surface activity is measured by static tensiometry using the Du Nouy ring.

The principle of the measurement are discussed in WO12110302, which is incorporated by references in its entirety.

In some embodiments, the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil. In particular, the non-volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:

- hydrocarbon-based polar oils such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g/mol), com oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; - hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, trioleoyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethyl hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C 12 to Cl 5 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2- octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, and myristyl myristate;

- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols and of dimer diacids, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate;

- fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyl dodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;

- C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;

- fluorinated oils which are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based;

- fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleic acid;

- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC by Cognis; and

- non-volatile oils of high molecular mass, for example between 400 and 10 000 g/mol, in particular between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance: i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/1 -hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol), ii) esters such as: a) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g/mol), c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g/mol), C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate and butyloctyl salicylate, d) esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891 .51 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1 143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g/mol) or else pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g/mol), e) esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference,

- and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the polar oil is chosen from C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, butyloctyl salicylate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate.

In some embodiments, the polar oil is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.

In some embodiments, the polar oil may be ethylhexyl olivate.

A content of the at least one polar oil in the composition. In some embodiments, an amount of the polar oil, such as ethylhexyl olivate, may be from 0.05 mass % to 5 mass % or from 0.1 mass% to 4 mass % or from 0.2 mass % to 3 mass% or from 0.4 mass % to 2 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges. Non-polar oil

A non-polar oil may one or more of non-polar oils disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 10,154,954, which is incorporated herein by reference it its entirety.

Nonpolar oils are hydrocarbons. They lack an electronegative element like oxygen, which results in their typical hydrocarbon feel.

These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term “non-polar oil" may mean an oil for which the solubility parameter at 25 degrees centigrade, 5_a, as defined above, is equal to 0 (J/cm³)^1/2.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" may mean an oil formed essentially from, indeed even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

In some embodiments, the non-polar oil may include one or more non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils.

The non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, isohexadecane; alkane; polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H- 1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam(R) sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats Corporation, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) or Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000 g/mol), decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, polydecenes and hydrogenated poly decenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the at least one non-polar oil is chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes and/or polybutenes. In some embodiments, the at least one non-polar oil may include squalane (a triterpene consisting of 2,6,10,15,19,23-Hexamethyltetracosane).

In some embodiments, the at least one non-polar oil may include C9-C14 alkanes, such as isoparaffins, isododecane and isohexadecane. In some embodiments, the at least one nonpolar oil may include Vegelight C9-12, which is C9-12 Alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate/caprate.

In some embodiments, the at least one non-polar oil may include squalene, undecane, tridecane, C9-alkane, and hydrogenated polyisobutane.

A content of the at least one non-polar oil in the composition may vary. In some embodiments, an amount of the non-polar oil, in the composition may be from 0.1 mass % to 40 mass % or 1 mass % to 40 mass % or 5 mass % to 25 mass % or 0.1 mass % to 20 mass or from 0.3 mass % to 15 mass or from 0.5 mass % to 10 mass % or from 1 mass % to 5mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.

In some embodiments, a ratio between the total mass content of the non-polar oil in the cosmetic composition and the total mass content of the polar oil in the cosmetic composition may be from 1 : 10 to 40: 1 or 1 :5 to 15: 1 or from 1 :2 to 10: 1 or from 1 : 1 to 10: 1 or about 6.6: 1 or any value or subrange within these ranges. For example, in some embodiments, a ratio between the total mass content of squalene, undecane, tridecane, C9-alkane, and hydrogenated polyisobutane in the cosmetic composition to the total mass content of ethylhexyl olivate in the cosmetic composition may be from 1 : 10 to 40: 1 or 1 :5 to 15: 1 or from 1 :2 to 10: 1 or from 1 : 1 to 10: 1 or about 6.6: 1 or any value or subrange within these ranges.

In some embodiments, a ratio between the total mass content of the at least one polyglyceroltype surfactant in the cosmetic composition and the total mass content of the non-polar oil in the cosmetic composition may be from 1 :30 to 5 : 1 or from 1 :20 to 4: 1 or from 1 : 15 to 3 : 1 or from 1 : 10 to 2: 1 or about 1 :6.2 or any value or subrange within these ranges. For example, in some embodiments, a ratio between the total mass content of polyglyceryl 3-diisostearte and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate in the cosmetic composition and the total mass content of squalene, undecane, tridecane, C9-12 alkane, and hydrogenated polyisobutane in the cosmetic composition may be from 1 :30 to 5: 1 or from 1 :20 to 4: 1 or from 1 : 15 to 3: 1 or from 1 : 10 to 2: 1 or about 1 :6.2 or any value or subrange within these ranges. Thickener

In some embodiments, the composition may comprise at least one thickener. Such thickener may be, for example, at least one hydrophobic mineral gelling agent which may be dissolved in the oily phase in the water-in-oil emulsified composition. For example, the at least one hydrophobic mineral gelling agent may be dissolved in the solvent comprising at least one polar oil and at least one non-polar oil.

The at least one hydrophobic mineral gelling agent may be chosen from but is not limited to organic modified clays and modified or unmodified hectorites and hydrophobic silicas, including fumed silicas. In some embodiments, the at least one hydrophobic mineral gelling agent may be selected from, for example, dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite, dimethyl distearyl ammonium bentonite, and dimethyl distearyl ammonium modified montmorillonite and others, as described and exemplified in U.S. Pat. Pub. No. 2007/0071703, which is hereby incorporated by reference.

In some embodiments, the at least one hydrophobic mineral gelling agent may be selected from those in which a quaternary ammonium salt compound is added to a natural or synthetic smectite clay mineral, such as bentonite, by way of an ion exchange reaction. The choice of organic modified clay minerals is not particularly limited as long as it is cosmetically acceptable and may include, for example, dimethyl ammonium hectorite, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite, and magnesium aluminum silicate treated with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

Examples of hydrophobic mineral gelling agents include, for example, from bentonites and organically modified hectorites pre-dispersed in organic solvents. A non-limiting example of commercially available bentonite is BENTONE GEL (Registered Trademark) series, including BENTONE GEL (Registered Trademark) ISD V (INCE Isododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate) available from Elementis Specialties.

Another exemplary material is GARAMITE 7308XR (INCI: Quatemium-90 Sepiolite and Quaternium-90 Montmorillonite) available from Eckart.

BENTONE GEL may contain 20 mass % Disteardimonium Hectorite in the gel formula.

Another applicable hydrophobic mineral gelling agent may comprise silica, in particular fumed silica and those treated with silanol groups. Such hydrophobic silicas are commercially available, for example, under the names of AEROSIL (Registered Trademark) by Degussa and CAB-O-SIL (Registered Trademark) available from Cabot.

Suitable hydrophobic mineral gelling agents may be utilized in a solid powder form or a gel, where the powder(s) are dispersed in a carrier, such as for example mineral oil, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutane, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, and/or isonolnyl isononanoate, polygly ceryl surfactant, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostarate, a nonpolar oil, such as squalane, or a combination therof.

An amount of the at least one hydrophobic gelling agent, such as bentonite (Disteardimonium Hectorite), which may be a powder or a gel, may vary. In some embodiments, a powder amount of the at least one hydrophobic gelling agent, such as bentonite (Disteardimonium Hectorite), in the cosmetic composition may be from 0.1 mass % to 2.0 mass % or from 0.2 mass % to 1.7 mass % or from 0.3 mass % to 1.5 mass % or from 0.4 mass % to 1.2 mass % or from 0.5 mass % to 1.1 mass % or from 0.6 mass % to 1.0 mass % or from 0.6 mass % to about 0.8 mass % or about 0.7 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.

Use of a hydrophobic gelling agent, such as bentone (disterdimonium hectorite) , together with a polar oil, such as ethylhexyl olivate, a polyglyceryl surfactant such as polyglyceryl 3 diisostearate and a non-polar oil, such as squalane, may provide a stable composition system without using a PEG and/or silicon surfactant.

In some embodiments, the at least one hydrophobic gelling agent may comprise a bentone gel, which may be disteardimonium hectorite dispersed in polyglyceryl surfactant, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, and squalene. An amount of the bentone gel may be from 0.5 mass % to 15 mass % or from 1 mass % to 10 mass % or from 1 mass % to 7 mass % or from 2 mass % to 6 mass % any value or subrange within these ranges.

Pigments

In some embodiments, the composition may also include one or more pigments. In some embodiments, one or more pigments may be in a form of a powder. In some embodiments, a powder used as a pigment may be a hydrophobically surface treated powder, which may be dispersed in the oily phase of the composition. In some embodiments, a powder used as a pigment may be a pigment grade powder. The term “pigment grade” may mean an average particle size in the powder of about 0.2 to 0.4 pm. In some embodiments, one or more pigments may be selected from pigment-grade titanium dioxide, pigment-grade zinc oxide, fine particle zinc oxide, talc, mica, sericite, kaolin, titanated mica, black iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, ultramarine, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, silica and cerium oxide. In some embodiments, one or more pigments may include one or more mineral pigments, such as one or more iron oxide pigments, such as black iron oxide, yellow iron oxide and red iron oxide. In some embodiments, one or more mineral pigments, such as iron oxide pigments, may be hydrophobically surface treated with, for example, lauroyl lysine. Lauroyl lysine treated iron oxide pigments are commercially available, for example, as Unipure Yellow LC 182 LL, Unipure Red LC 381 LL and Unipure Black LC 989 LL.

In some embodiments, one or more mineral pigments, such as iron oxide pigments, may be treated with, for example, an amino acid, such as Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine. Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine treated iron oxide pigments are commercially available, for example, as ASL-1 YELLOW LL-100P, ASL-1 RED R-516P and ASL -1 BLACK BL-100P.

In some embodiments, the one or more pigments may include pigment grade titanium dioxide treated with a fatty acid, such as stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, and behenic acid. Such titanium dioxide pigments are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 11,090,233, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

In some embodiments, the one or more pigments may include NHS treated pigments, which may be also treated with an amino acid. NHS treated pigments may be, for example, NHS treated titanium oxide pigments or NHS treated iron oxide pigments. NHS treated pigments are commercially available from Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. and Miyoshi Group. Non-limiting examples of NHS treated pigments include NHS-TR-10 (NHS-treated Pigmentary Titanium Dioxide) (TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ISOSTEARYL SEBACATE, DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE); NHS-RPS-10 (NHS-treated Red Iron Oxide) (IRON OXIDES, ISOSTEARYL SEBACATE, DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE); NHS-YP-10 (NHS-treated Yellow Iron Oxide) (IRON OXIDES, ISOSTEARYL SEBACATE, DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE) and NHS-BP-10 (NHS-treated Black Iron Oxide) (IRON OXIDES, ISOSTEARYL SEBACATE, DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE) from Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. as well as NHS-C339001-10 (Iron Oxide (CI 77499) (96.25%) (and) Isostearyl Sebacate (3%) (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (0.5%) (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (0.25%)) from Miyoshi Group.

A content of the one or more pigments in the composition may vary. For example, in some embodiments, an amount of one or more pigments in the composition may be from 0 mass % to 25 mass% or from 0.1 mass% to 25 mass% or from 0.1 mass % to 20 mass % or 0.2 mass % to 15 mass % or from 0.3 mass to 10 mass % or any value or subrange within these ranges.

Powders

In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more powders. For example, in some embodiments, the one or more powders may be dispersed in the oily phase of the water- in-oil emulsified composition. Yet in some embodiments, the one or more powders may be dispersed in the water phase of the water-in-oil emulsified composition.

In some embodiments, one or more powders may include one or more of titanium dioxide particles, silica particle, iron oxide particles and zinc oxide particles. A hydrophobization surface treatment applied to one or more powders, such as titanium dioxide particles, silica particles, iron oxide particles and/or zinc oxide particles, may be (1) a treatment with a metallic soap consisting of a higher fatty acid and a multivalent metal, such as a divalent, e.g. magnesium, or a trivalent metal, e.g. aluminum or (2) a composite treatment with a higher fatty acid and a hydroxide of a multivalent metal, such as a divalent metal, e.g. magnesium or a trivalent metal, e.g. aluminum. The higher fatty acid may be a C8 to C24, such as C12 to C22, linear or branched carboxylic acid, e.g. stearic acid or isostearic acid. For example, in some embodiments, one or more powders, such as titanium dioxide particles, silica particles iron oxide particles and/or zinc oxide particles, may be surface treated with magnesium stearate and/or magnesium isostearate or with a composite treatment of aluminum hydroxide and stearic and/or isostearic acid.

In some embodiments, one or more powders may provide at least some of sun protection properties, such as ultraviolet protection properties, to the composition. For examples, the one or more powders may comprise one or more ultraviolet scattering powders. Examples of ultraviolet scattering powders include titanium dioxide powders, zinc oxide powders, silica powders, and composite powders, such as titanium dioxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide coated talc and titanium dioxide coated glass flake. Ultraviolet scattering powders may have an average particle diameter of about 25 to 100 nm. In some embodiments, one or more ultraviolet scattering powders may include titatanium dioxide powder, zinc oxide powder or a combination thereof.

Ultraviolet scattering powders may hydrophobic treated on a surface of a base material, such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Examples of methods of hydrophobic treatment of surface include fluorine treatment using perfluoroalkyl phosphoric acid ester, perfluoroalcohol or the like; amino acid treatment using N-acylglutamic acid or the like; lecithin treatment; metallic soap treatment; fatty acid treatment; and alkylphosphoric acid ester treatment.

A content of ultraviolet scattering powder(s) in the composition may vary. In some embodiments, an amount of the ultraviolet scattering powder(s) may be from 2.5 mass % to 30 mass % or from 3 mass % to 25% or from 4 mass % to 20% mass %.

Exemplary composition

In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise 0.3 mass % to 3 mass % of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; 1 mass% to 5 mass% of polyglyceryl-3 diisosterate; 7 mass % to 12 mass % of trimethoxysiloxysilicate; 0.3 mass % to 1.5 mass % bentonite comprising disteardimonium hectorite; 0.1 mass% to 3 mass % of ethylhexyl olivate; 2 mass % to 6 mass % of C9-12 alkane and 24 mass % to 32 mass % of water.

In some other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise 0.3 mass % to 3 mass % of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; 1 mass% to 5 mass% of polyglyceryl-3 diisosterate; 2 mass % to 6 mass % of dextrin isostearate; 1.5 mass % to 4 mass % of glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate; 0.3 mass % to 1.5 mass % bentonite comprising disteardimonium hectorite; 0.1 mass% to 3 mass % of ethylhexyl olivate; 2 mass % to 6 mass % of C9-12 alkane and 24 mass % to 32 mass % of water.

Additional ingredients

In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more additional ingredients, such as a preservative, such as phenoxyethanol; a preservative boosting surfactant, such as propanediol; humectant, an emollient and/or a moisturizer, such as glycerin, a polysacccaride, such as amylopectin, a vitamin, such as niacinamide, a soothing agent, such as Atoligomer. Yet in some embodiments, the composition may contain the one or more the additional ingredients in an amount from 1 mass % to 25 mass % or from 3 mass % to 20 mass % or 5 mass % to 18 mass %.

Method of making

The composition may be prepared by preparing a homogenized oil phase; and adding the water phase to an oil phase and performing further homogenizing of the product.

In some embodiments, the process may involve adding one or more additional phase into the oil phase before it is added to the water phase. The addition product of the oil phase and the additional phase may be also homogenized before being added to the water phase. The additional phase may be for example, a pigment phase formed from hydrophobic pigments.

All the steps of preparing the composition may be performed at a temperature from 15C to 32 C or from 18 C to 30C or from 20C to 28C or at room temperature, such as a temperature about 25C.

Embodiments described herein are further illustrated by, though in no way limited to, the following working examples.

EXAMPLE

Table 1. Summary of compositions for Example 1, which does not contain a silicone emulsifier, and Comparative Example 1, which contains a silicone emulsifier.

Table 1

In Tables 1 and 4, the symbol means ± 20%.

The compositions in Table 1 were prepared using the following procedure: Prepare a premix of phase A: in a separate vessel, add phase A ingredients, homogenize at 3000-5000RPM until a batch looks uniform. In the main vessel, add the premix of phase A and ingredients of phase B, homogenize at 4000-500RPM for 5-10 mins until a batch looks uniform and bentone gel completely dispersed. Add pigments of phase C to the main vessel, homogenize 4000-500RPM to ensure pigments are completely dispersed. Add powder of Phase D to the main vessel, homogenize 4000-5000RPM untill batch looks uniform. In the separate vessel, add water phase E, mix well. To start the emulsification, add the water phase E to the main vessel, homogenize 400-5000RPM, increase speed if needed until a batch looks uniform.

Table 2 provides stability data for the compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

Table 2

Result grading: O=product stable, appearance, texture, color and odor.

The data in Table 2 demonstrates that the compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 have comparable stability are comparable (emulsion stable, no separation, no pigment agglomeration) even though Example 1 contains silicone resin but no silicone surfactant while Comparative Example 1 contains both silicone resin and silicone surfactant.

Stability data in Table 2 was obtained using the following protocol: [0001] The incentive and comparative samples are placed in chambers at different temperatures (25°C, 37°C, 45°C, 50°C, 0°C, -5°C). . Each week for four weeks, samples are taken out and evaluated based on the criteria below.

0 = Product stable. Appearance, texture, color and odor.

-1 = Slight deviation in appearance, texture, color and odor.

-2 = Greater deviation in appearance, texture, color and odor.

-3 = Product stability in question. Product likely to be returned or discarded by customer. -4 = Complete breakdown of formula; product unacceptable for sale or use.

The composition of Example 1 (Foundation A, the composition of Example 1) was compared with a commercially available composition (Foundation B) having the following ingredients: Aqua (Water), C9-12 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Silica, Alcohol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, Pentylene Glycol, Pullulan, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Sodium Chloride, Hydroxyacetophenone, Parfum (Fragrance), Potassium Sorbate, Maltodextrin, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract, Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Aluminum Hydroxide, Kaolin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Tocopherol, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Illite, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Citric Acid, Tin Oxide, [+/- Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499 (Iron Oxides)].

The comparison was performed by a panel, which included five members. The panelists compared the two compositions for application, wear and texture using the following protocol:

Objective:

The objectives of this study were to determine the difference in application, wear, and feel properties and overall consumer appeal of Foundation A and Foundation B using a panel of 5 female volunteers. Subjects were required to answer a questionnaire after one full day of wear of each supplied product.

Test Procedure:

This study was designed as a two-day study in which the test product was used by each of the test subjects according to the provided instructions:

Usage Instructions: In the morning the provided foundation in place of your normal foundation to your face using your preferred foundation application method. Do not use any other new makeup product during this time. Apply until a full coverage finish is achieved.

Wear the foundation all day then answer the provided Microsoft Forms Questionnaire. The Questionnaire consisted of several questions asking subjects to rate certain characteristics of the test foundation based on a specific scale, open ended like/dislike questions, and finally a choice to which test foundation they preferred.

Questionnaire Scale:

Coverage Scale:

0= Low Coverage 10= High Coverage

Wear Scale:

0= Wore off Quickly 10= Lasted All Day Application Scale:

0= Not Easy to Apply

10= Lasted All Day

Build Capability Scale:

0= Not Buildable

10= Very Buildable

Feel Scale:

0= Feels Heavy

10= Feels Lightweight

The results of the comparison are presented in Table 3 and in the Figure.

Table 3

F oundation A Average F oundation B Average

Score in Percent Score

Wear Rating 92% 84%

Application/Creaminess Rating 94% 80%

Build Capability (Build more 88% 84% coverage/Layer on top of itself)

Lightweight Feel Rating 92% 68%

After 1 day of wear, subject were required to complete a Sponsor-supplied questionnaire about Foundation A and Foundation B’s characteristics and overall likability. Using 0-10 scaled questions, the survey obtained ratings on the parameters of wear, application/creamy texture, build capability (ability for foundation to apply well over itself to gain more coverage), and feeling of weight. Panelists rated Foundation A with higher scores in the areas of lasting wear, creaminess and ease of application, ability to build on itself, and lightweight feeling than Foundation B

Conclusion:

For wear, panelists gave Foundation A an average score of 9.2/10 and Foundation B an average score of 8.4/10. For application/creaminess, panelists gave Foundation A an average score of 9.4/10 and Foundation B an average score of 8.0/10.

For build capability, panelists gave Foundation A an average score of 8.8/10 and Foundation B an average score of 8.4/10.

For feel, panelists gave Foundation A an average score of 9.2/10 and Foundation B an average score of 6.8/10.

At the end of the second survey, panelists were asked to choose which foundation they preferred to wear. 80% of panelists preferred Foundation A to Foundation B.

Table 4 provides compositions of Example 2, which contains silicone resin but no silicone surfactants, and Example 3, which contains natural resin(s) and no silicone resin or silicone surfactants. Example 2 is similar to Example 1 in Table 1, while using different pigments. Example 3 uses natural resin(s) instead of silicone resin in Examples 1 and 2. Examples 2 and 3 are prepared using the procedure which was used for the preparing the compositions in Table 1.

Table 4.

Table 5

Test method and grade scale are same as in Table 2

Table 5 provides stability data for the composition of Examples 2 and 3 from Table 4. The data in in Table 5 demonstrates that the compositions of Example 2 and Example 3 have comparable stability even though Example 3 showed -1 after week 3 and week 4 at 45°C, 50°C, 0°C and -5°C but the emulsion was stable and no pigment agglomeration.

* * * Although the foregoing refers to particular preferred embodiments, it will be understood that the present disclosure is not so limited. It will occur to those of ordinary skill in the art that various modifications may be made to the disclosed embodiments and that such modifications are intended to be within the scope of the present invention.

All of the publications, patent applications and patents cited in this specification are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:

1. A water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one polyglycerol-type surfactant;

(b) a resin;

(c) a solvent comprising at least one polar oil and at least one non-polar oil; and

(d) water.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one polyglyceryl-type surfactant comprises at least two polyglyceryl-type surfactants.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein the at two polyglycerol -type surfactants comprise polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-3 diisosterate.

4. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-3, wherein the composition does not contain polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate.

5. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-4, wherein the at least one polyglyceryl-type surfactant constitutes from 1 mass % to 15 mass % of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-5, wherein the composition does not contain a silicone emulsifier.

7. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-6, wherein the composition does not contain a silicone oil.

8. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-7, wherein the composition does not contain a silicone surfactant.

9. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-8, wherein the resin is a natural resin.

10. The cosmetic composition of claim 9, wherein the natural resin comprises dextrin isostearate.

11. The cosmetic composition of claim 9 or 10, wherein the natural resin comprises rosinate.

12. The cosmetic composition of claim 11, wherein the rosinate is glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate.

13. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-8, wherein the resin is a silicone resin.

14. The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein the silicone resin comprises an MQ resin.

15. The cosmetic composition of claim 13 or 14, wherein the silicone resin comprises trimethylsiloxysilicate.

16. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 13-15, wherein the silicone resin is the only silicone ingredient of the composition.

17. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-16, wherein the resin constitutes 1 mass % to 40 mass % of the composition.

18. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-17, wherein the composition does not contain a polyethylene glycol containing ingredient.

19. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-18, wherein the at least one polar oil comprise ethylhexyl olivate and the at least one non-polar oil comprises at least one squalene and C9-12 alkane.

20. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-19, wherein the solvent constitutes from 1 mass % to 15 mass% of the composition.

21. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-20, wherein the at least one nonpolar oil constitutes from 1 mass% to 10 mass% of the composition.

22. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-21, wherein the water constitutes from 5 to 40 mass % of the composition

23. The cosmetic composition of any one of claim 1-22, wherein the composition further comprises a thickener.

24. The cosmetic composition of claim 23, wherein the thickener comprises bentonite.

25. The cosmetic composition of claim 24, wherein the bentonite comprises disteardimonium hectorite.

26. The composition of claim 24 or 25, wherein the bentonite in a powder form constitutes from 0.1 mass % to 2.0 mass% of the composition.

27. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-26, further comprising one or more pigments.

28. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-27, further comprising at least one powder.

29. The cosmetic composition of claim 28, wherein the at least one powder comprises at least one titanium oxide powder treated with stearic acid.

30. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-8 and 13-27, comprising 0.3 mass % to 3 mass % of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; 1 mass% to 5 mass% of polyglyceryl-3 diisosterate; 7 mass % to 12 mass % of trimethoxysiloxysilicate; 0.3 mass % to 1.5 mass % bentonite comprising disteardimonium hectorite; 0.1 mass% to 3 mass % of ethylhexyl olivate; 2 mass % to 6 mass % of C9-12 alkane and 24 mass % to 32 mass % of water.

31. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-12 and 17-27, comprising 0.3 mass % to 3 mass % of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; 1 mass% to 5 mass% of polyglyceryl-3 diisosterate; 2 mass % to 6 mass % of dextrin isostearate; 1.5 mass % to 4 mass % of glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate; 0.3 mass % to 1.5 mass % bentonite comprising disteardimonium hectorite; 0.1 mass% to 3 mass % of ethylhexyl olivate; 2 mass % to 6 mass % of C9-12 alkane and 24 mass % to 32 mass % of water.

32. The cosmetic composition of claim 30 or 31, further comprising 0.5 mass % to 20 mass % of at least one titanium oxide powder treated with stearic acid.

33. A cosmetic method comprising applying the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-32 to a keratinous surface.