WO2022144700A1

WO2022144700A1 - Multifunctional cosmetic formulation for the face

Info

Publication number: WO2022144700A1
Application number: PCT/IB2021/062164
Authority: WO
Inventors: Stefania GAZZI; Davide BOLGE'
Original assignee: L4l Cosmetics Sagl
Current assignee: L4l Cosmetics Sagl
Priority date: 2020-12-30
Filing date: 2021-12-22
Publication date: 2022-07-07
Anticipated expiration: 2023-06-30
Also published as: EP4271485A1

Abstract

Object of the present invention is a new cosmetic formulation, which can be developed in various shades of colors depending on the pigments selected, which, thanks also to its particular consistency and "cream-to-powder" composition, can be used on all parts of the face for coloring, correcting and enhancing facial features.

Description

“Multifunctional cosmetic formulation for the face”

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Summary of the Invention

Object of the present invention is a new cosmetic formulation, which can be developed in various shades of colors depending on the pigments selected, which, thanks also to its particular consistency and ”cream-to-powder" composition, can be used on all parts of the face for coloring, correcting and enhancing facial features.

Background art

The execution of a complete make-up of the face today involves the application of several types of products that, in order to properly enhance the features and hide the imperfections, must be carefully selected and applied with precise gestures and in the correct order.

Furthermore, much attention must be paid to the selection of the shade(s) of color to be used, depending on the undertone of the skin as well as the purpose for which the product is to be used and the area where it is to be applied, for example when performing precise facial contouring.

The multiplicity of products on the market, with their variety of formulations in terms of components, consistency and type, should allow each consumer to find a product suitable for its needs and skin type but often ends up creating confusion, complicating the selection and pushing towards the purchase of a large number of products, each dedicated to a different function, which can not always be mixed together and often fail to act in synergy or in tune with each other to give the desired result if not applied in the correct sequence.

In recent years, there has also been a tendency to use some make-up products improperly, for example by applying them to different areas of the face from those intended by the manufacturer, raising some doubts about the safety of use of the product itself. In fact, it is not appropriate to consider that the skin around the cheekbones can be easily considered in the same way as the skin around the eyes or lips, which is much more delicate and has different needs.

Therefore, there is a need to have a cosmetic formulation that is easy to use, that combines several functions in it simultaneously replacing, with a single product, two or more make-up references and that can be customized as desired in terms of shades and finishes.

In particular, the technical problem to be solved is to have a single cosmetic formulation that can be applied to every part of the face, even the most delicate areas and in contact with the mucous membranes, and that can be used in place of the many different products normally used to color, correct and enhance the facial features.

Purposes of the invention

Purpose of the present invention is to provide a new cosmetic formulation, which can be developed in various shades of colors depending on the pigments selected, and which can be used on all parts of the face, even the most delicate ones, to color, correct and enhance the features of the face.

Another purpose of the present invention is to provide a new cosmetic formulation capable of replacing, in a single product, different make-up references.

A further purpose of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic formulation that is available in a wide palette of shades and finishes, so as to allow customized color gradations to be created thanks to the possibility of mixing such shades and finishes among them extemporaneously and as needed.

These and other purposes are achieved by the object of the present invention, which provides a new cosmetic formulation capable of replacing several make-up references in a single product that can be developed in a wide palette of colors and usable on all areas of the face. Description of the invention

Object of the present invention is a new cosmetic formulation which can be used on every part of the face for coloring, correcting and enhancing the features, and which is capable of replacing, in a single product, numerous make-up references.

By the expression "every part of the face" is meant all the skin areas of the face such as cheeks, cheekbones, forehead, nose, chin, eyelids and eye contour, as well as the areas in contact with the mucous membranes such as the lips and all the accessory structures such as eyelashes and eyebrows and any other area that is part of the face.

By the expression "make-up references" is meant all the different types of products used in decorative cosmetics (or make-up) to color, beautify, correct and/or enhance the person's appearance. Said types of products can be included in a wide range of formulation types, such as suspensions, emulsions, powders, pastes, etc., and are joined by the presence of pigments, lacquers or dyes that make it possible to correct and/or enhance the aspect for which these products are used.

The make-up references that may be substituted by the cosmetic formulation of the invention are, for example but not limited to, highlighters, contours, blushes, bronzers, eye shadows, mascaras, eye-liners, eye pencils, eyebrow pencils, liquid and stick lipsticks, lip contour pencils. All of these types of products and their formulation characteristics are well known to the person skilled in the art.

The composition of the cosmetic formulation of the invention is characterized by a new specific mixture of ingredients that gives rise to an innovative texture able to make it easily applicable on the different areas of the face in complete safety. In the present document, the term "texture" is used to denote, in a single word, the viscosity, consistency and texture characteristics of the formulation, as well as the tactile and use sensation.

The cosmetic formulation of the invention comprises a "base" having the innovative texture to which specific pigments are added, which characterize it from the point of view of its ability to color, correct and enhance different areas of the face according to needs.

In particular, by "base" is meant the mixture of ingredients of the formulation of the invention that constitute its core and are capable of determining the specific texture, which is fundamental in the implementation of the present invention.

In fact, thanks to its specific characteristics, the cosmetic formulation of the invention is able to adapt to any type of skin, gender and ethnic group giving, if necessary, an emollient, opacifying and/or moisturizing effect.

The ingredients are selected in accordance with the current international cosmetic regulations and the formulation is free of allergens and non-essential ingredients. Whenever possible, the excipients used for the formulation are of natural origin; all the synthetic ingredients are always of high quality and carefully selected and, in any case, all the components are selected according to a "clean beauty" criterion.

The "base" of the formulation comprises several categories of excipients known to the skilled person in the art and carefully selected and dosed, especially with regard to the relative ratios. This labored balance allows obtaining products with peculiar characteristics of texture and applicability that enable, on the one hand, the possibility of using them on every part of the face, from the lips to the eyelids, and on the other hand, the capability of mixing them together to achieve personalized shades and tones. In fact, certain excipients cannot be present, if not correctly counterbalanced, in quantities that are too high or too low in order to avoid problems linked, for example, to the product drying too quickly, to its non-uniform spreading on the skin, which in turn determines a non-uniform distribution of the color, or to a non-optimal consistency (e.g. sticky) once the product has been applied.

The categories of excipients present in the "base" formulation and their functions within the cosmetic product of the invention are summarized in Table 1 below.

Table 2 instead shows the weight/weight percentage quantities of the functional classes in the four possible configurations A - D which differ from each other for the different relative ratios between the various classes. Each configuration allows the preparation of the cosmetic formulation of the invention characterized by its peculiar texture and finish properties.

Table 1 - Functional classes of the excipients constituting the composition of the invention and description of their activity in terms of effect/result

Table 2 - Composition of the formulation of the invention according to the functional classes of the excipients and their concentration according to four different aspects of the invention (A-D)

The types of excipients used are well known to the skilled person in the art as well as the main representatives of the functional classes shown in the tables.

Non-limiting examples of the preferred excipients to be used in the formulation of the invention are set forth here below by their INCI names in the European classification.

Emollients: Isodecane, Bi s-Digly ceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Triisostearin, Silica Dimethyl

Silylate, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Synthetic Wax, Himanthalia El ongata Extract. Emulsifiers: Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides.

Stabilizers/thickeners: Disteardimonium Hectorite, Microcrystalline Wax, Ethylene/ Propylene Copolymer.

Opacifiers: Boron Nitride, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Silica, Talc.

Highlighters: Mica, Tin Oxide.

Antioxidants: Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol.

Solvents: Propylene Carbonate.

Preservatives/ Anti-microbials: Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Sodium Dehydroacetate.

Fragrances: Parfum.

With the specific intention and need to create a product possessing a very high standard of quality and meeting specific "clean beauty" characteristics, as previously stated, the formulation of the invention is further free of the following components: i. water: contrary to almost all cosmetic formulations in liquid form, the formulation of the invention is devoid of water and this makes it much more resistant to microbial contamination; ii. petrolates (e.g. INCI Paraffinum, Paraffinum liquidum, Vaselin); iii. silicones (e.g. INCI Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Cyclomethicone,

Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol); iv. preservatives and formaldehyde releasers belonging to the following list: Imidazolidinyl urea, Diazolidinyl urea, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, DMDM, hydantoin, Cocamide, Mea, Tea, Dea, SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate), SLES (sodium laureth sulfate), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, PEG (polyethylene glycol), PPG (polypropylene glycol), ethoxylated emulsifiers, Triclosan, BHA-E320, BHT-E321; v. chelating substances such as the substances depicted by INCI: HEDTA, TEA-EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA, Calcium Disodium EDTA, Diammonium EDTA, Dipotassium EDTA, Tripotassium EDTA, Trisodium EDTA, Trisodium HEDTA vi. fragrances with potential allergenic value

Furthermore, in the case of talc powder used as an opacifying agent, only a product having among its specifications the certification of absence of aluminum is used in the cosmetic formulation of the invention.

As previously specified, the aforementioned "base" has a texture that can be defined as " cream-to-powder" , in fact, it has the appearance and softness of application and spreading of a cream emulsion and at the same time, once applied, it is impalpable and light as a powder, also guaranteeing the high hold performances. This "cream-to-powder" consistency is also responsible for the ease of application of the product, which can therefore be used even by less experienced consumers thanks to the simplicity of retouching, tracing lines and shades as well as the possibility of layering different application steps on top of each other.

The basic formula guarantees a high level of hold while the choice of excipients, of natural origin or high-quality synthetics, also guarantees an easy removal when you want or need to remove the make-up.

One or more dyes, pigments or lacquers approved for use in the cosmetic products are added to this "base" to obtain the final product. Said dyes, pigments or lacquers, hereafter referred to for simplicity by the single term "pigments", are identified by a standard number called Color

Index (CI) constituted by five digits, which also identifies their type and derivation. In particular, inside the formulation said pigments may be introduced into a % weight/weight concentration range of 2.5 - 8.5%.

By adding the desired pigment, or mixture of pigments, inside the "base" it is possible to obtain a large number of shades and finishes, in particular warm, cold and/or neutral colors and opaque or luminous finishes (better identified, with a terminology that is currently more represented in the make-up field: matte or shimmer).

The "basic" formula will then be developed in a large number of gradations, for example about 24 different colors, to meet the needs of skin shades and undertones as well as the color preferences of the end consumer, scalable by number of references and to integrate new ones. In a preferred aspect of the invention, said formulations, which have different shade and finish gradations, can be combined with each other, even extemporaneously, by the end user to create their own personal color palette. In fact, the "base" formulation, which is always the same for all the different shades, guarantees a perfect and complete miscibility between products even with different pigments without any risk of altering their integrity, safety, quality or performance

The person skilled in the art is able to prepare the formulation of the invention by using the methodologies known in the production of similar types o 'crectm-io-powder" products.

The formulation of the invention, therefore, has several advantages over the known art: it allows a single product to be used on all areas of the face with the potential to replace a large number of different references (up to 11 of the 21 single make-up references most commonly purchased), moreover, it has been developed in a wide range of colors by adding pigments or mixtures of different pigments to the same base thus giving the possibility, also to the final consumer, to carry out a "mix&match" operation between the different shades to develop a personal color palette and thus giving rise to a highly modular product. The texture, with its "cream-to-powder" nature, allows for simple and intuitive application, for consumers of any level of technical skill, guarantees the absence of color deposits, is nonshedding, has the pleasantness of a cream during use and maintains the lightness of a powder once it is applied. In another of its aspects, the formulation of the invention, thanks to its characteristics of composition, multifunctional use and production method, advantageously allows to reduce the environmental impact in terms of raw materials used, production process, packaging, transport, storage, disposal and recycling.

Experimental section

Formulation 1 (weight/weight percentage composition):

Formulation 2 (weight/weight percentage composition)

Formulation 3 (weight/weight percentage composition)

Formulation 4 (weight/weight percentage composition)

Claims

1. A multifunctional cosmetic formulation with "cream-lo-powder ' texture, characterized in that it comprises the functional excipients listed in the following table in the weight/weight % concentration ranges and in the reciprocal ratios thereof depicted by the A-D configurations, together with one or more pigments in a mixture selected from dyes, pigments and/or lacquers approved for the use in the cosmetic products, said pigments being present in a weight/weight % concentration range of 2.5

- 8.5%.

2. The cosmetic formulation according to claim I, characterized in that said functional excipients comprise one or more, preferably all of the following compounds, depicted by the European INCI designation: Isodecane, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Triisostearin, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Mica, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax, Propylene Carbonate, Boron Nitride, Silica, Talc, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Ethyl ene/Propylene Copolymer, Tin Oxide, Parfum, Himanthalia Elongata Extract. The cosmetic formulation according to claim 1, characterized in that said pigments are present in a weight/weight % concentration range of 6.5 - 8.5%. The cosmetic formulation according to claim 1, characterized in that it does not comprise any of the following compounds/classes of compounds: i. water ii. petrolatums, such as for example Paraffinum, Paraffinum liquidum, Vaselin; iii. silicones, such as for example Dimethicone, Amodimethicone,

Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol; iv. preservatives and formaldehyde releasers belonging to the following list: Imidazolidinyl urea, Diazolidinyl urea, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, DMDM, hydantoin, Cocamide, Mea, Tea, Dea, SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate), SLES (sodium laureth sulfate), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, PEG (polyethylene glycol), PPG (polypropylene glycol), ethoxylated emulsifiers, Triclosan, BHA-E320, BHT-E321; v. chelating substances such as the substances depicted by INCI: HEDTA, TEA- EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA, Calcium Disodium EDTA, Diammonium EDTA, Dipotassium EDTA, Tripotassium EDTA, Trisodium EDTA,

Trisodium HEDTA vi. fragrances with potential allergenic value 19 The cosmetic formulation according to claim 1, characterized by the following composition:

20 and wherein said pigments are selected from anyone, or more than one in a mixture with each other, of the dyes, pigments or lacquers approved for the use in the cosmetic products. Use of the cosmetic formulation of claim 1, for coloring, correcting and enhancing facial features, and being applied to all areas of the face. Use according to claim 5, in place of one or more of the following make-up products: highlighter, contour, blush, bronzer, eye shadow, mascara, eye-liner, eye pencil, eyebrow pencil, lipstick, liquid and stick lipsticks, lip contour pencil. Use according to claim 5 of two or more cosmetic formulations, in a mixture with each other, for preparing a final formulation with customized color shade and finish, for coloring, correcting and enhancing facial features. Use according to claim 7, in place of one or more of the following make-up products: highlighter, contour, blush, bronzer, eye shadow, mascara, eye-liner, eye pencil, eyebrow pencil, liquid and stick lipsticks, lip contour pencil.