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WO2018224845A1 - Tissu et procédé de fabrication d'un tissu - Google Patents

Tissu et procédé de fabrication d'un tissu Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2018224845A1
WO2018224845A1 PCT/GB2018/051572 GB2018051572W WO2018224845A1 WO 2018224845 A1 WO2018224845 A1 WO 2018224845A1 GB 2018051572 W GB2018051572 W GB 2018051572W WO 2018224845 A1 WO2018224845 A1 WO 2018224845A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
layer
body layer
cutting
base layer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/GB2018/051572
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Rhiannon WAKEFIELD
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Royal College of Art
Original Assignee
Royal College of Art
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Royal College of Art filed Critical Royal College of Art
Publication of WO2018224845A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018224845A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/245—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it being a foam layer
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/02—Layered materials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/06—Thermally protective, e.g. insulating
    • A41D31/065—Thermally protective, e.g. insulating using layered materials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/28—Shock absorbing
    • A41D31/285—Shock absorbing using layered materials
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B27/00—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin
    • B32B27/12—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin next to a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B3/00—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form
    • B32B3/26—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer
    • B32B3/30—Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer characterised by a layer formed with recesses or projections, e.g. hollows, grooves, protuberances, ribs
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/026—Knitted fabric
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/14—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts, e.g. denser near its faces
    • B32B5/142—Variation across the area of the layer
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/14—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts, e.g. denser near its faces
    • B32B5/145—Variation across the thickness of the layer
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/14—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts, e.g. denser near its faces
    • B32B5/147—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts, e.g. denser near its faces by treatment of the layer
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/18—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by features of a layer of foamed material
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B7/00—Layered products characterised by the relation between layers; Layered products characterised by the relative orientation of features between layers, or by the relative values of a measurable parameter between layers, i.e. products comprising layers having different physical, chemical or physicochemical properties; Layered products characterised by the interconnection of layers
    • B32B7/04—Interconnection of layers
    • B32B7/12—Interconnection of layers using interposed adhesives or interposed materials with bonding properties
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D13/00—Professional, industrial or sporting protective garments, e.g. surgeons' gowns or garments protecting against blows or punches
    • A41D13/015—Professional, industrial or sporting protective garments, e.g. surgeons' gowns or garments protecting against blows or punches with shock-absorbing means
    • A41D13/0153—Professional, industrial or sporting protective garments, e.g. surgeons' gowns or garments protecting against blows or punches with shock-absorbing means having hinged or separable parts
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0276—Polyester fibres
    • B32B2262/0284—Polyethylene terephthalate [PET] or polybutylene terephthalate [PBT]
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/06—Vegetal fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/06—Vegetal fibres
    • B32B2262/062—Cellulose fibres, e.g. cotton
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/08—Animal fibres, e.g. hair, wool, silk
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2266/00—Composition of foam
    • B32B2266/02—Organic
    • B32B2266/0214—Materials belonging to B32B27/00
    • B32B2266/0278—Polyurethane
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/30—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular thermal properties
    • B32B2307/304—Insulating
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
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    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/40—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular optical properties
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/40—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular optical properties
    • B32B2307/402—Coloured
    • B32B2307/4023—Coloured on the layer surface, e.g. ink
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/40—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular optical properties
    • B32B2307/402—Coloured
    • B32B2307/4026—Coloured within the layer by addition of a colorant, e.g. pigments, dyes
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/40—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular optical properties
    • B32B2307/402—Coloured
    • B32B2307/404—Multi-coloured
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/50—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular mechanical properties
    • B32B2307/51—Elastic
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    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
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    • B32B2307/514—Oriented
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    • B32B2307/50—Properties of the layers or laminate having particular mechanical properties
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    • B32B2437/00—Clothing

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a fabric and method of making the same.
  • the fabric is a multi-layered and multi-faceted fabric.
  • the body layer may be affixed to the base layer with adhesive.
  • the fabric further comprises a surface layer or coating provided on the first surface of the body layer, wherein the surface layer/coating is cut corresponding to the cutting of the body layer.
  • the surface layer may be affixed to the body layer, optionally or preferably with adhesive.
  • the surface layer may be or comprise a fabric.
  • the surface layer preferably is or comprises a synthetic material such as polyester or a plastics material.
  • the surface layer may be sprayed onto the body layer, spread on or otherwise applied.
  • a natural material could be used, e.g. cotton, silk, viscose or leather.
  • the base layer may be a stretchable fabric and, optionally or preferably may be or comprise cotton. Cotton is a convenient material to use, because it is widely available and its insulating/ventilation properties, durability and stretch make it particularly suitable for clothing. Alternatively, a synthetic material may be used. The material may be waterproof or water-resistant.
  • the surface layer and the base layer may, in an embodiment, be or comprise the same material.
  • the body layer may be or comprise a foam.
  • the foam may be an open cell foam or a closed cell foam.
  • the fabric is cut by laser cutting.
  • the fabric may be cut with one or more straight and/or curved lines and, optionally or preferably, the fabric may be cut with one or more straight and/or curved lines that intersect one another.
  • Laser cutting is particularly convenient as it is accurate, fast and controllable.
  • the fabric may be cut by any suitable mechanical, chemical or optical means.
  • One or more of the layers of the fabric may be coloured. According to a second aspect of the present invention there is provided a garment as defined in claim 1 1.
  • the method may further comprise providing a surface layer or coating on the first surface of the body layer, and cutting the coating and the body layer together.
  • the surface layer may be affixed to the body layer, optionally or preferably with adhesive.
  • the surface layer may be or comprise a fabric and, optionally or preferably is or comprises a synthetic material such as polyester or cotton.
  • the base layer may be a stretchable fabric and, optionally or preferably is or comprises cotton. Cotton is a convenient material to use, because it is widely available and its insulating/ventilation properties, durability and stretch make it particularly suitable for clothing.
  • the body layer may be or comprise a foam and, optionally or preferably, an open cell foam.
  • the cutting is or comprises laser cutting according to a digital pattern.
  • the method may comprise cutting one or more straight and/or curved lines into the fabric and, optionally or preferably, cutting one or more straight and/or curved lines into the fabric that intersect one another. Laser cutting is particularly convenient as it is accurate, fast and controllable.
  • the method may comprise screen printing or dyeing any one or more layers of the fabric.
  • a method of forming a garment as defined in claim 21 According to a fourth aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of forming a garment as defined in claim 21.
  • the layering and cutting of the fabric advantageously allows for and reacts to physical movement whilst retaining its insulation and protective properties.
  • the multiple facets provide a fabric that can change colour with movement of the fabric. The combination of cutting the particular layer fabrication, leaving the under layer intact, creates the finished form.
  • a flexible, preferably stretchable, fabric base layer maximises movement and is a key contributor to the malleability of the constructed fabric. Cutting through all or a majority of the depth of the body layer further provides flexibility and malleability.
  • aspects and embodiments of the invention allow for a potentially thick fabric to be worn in an exceptionally flexible and tactile way, whilst retaining its insulating and protective properties.
  • the combination of the (stretchy) base layer and the laser cut upper layer(s) frees the fabric from being cumbersome and maximises movement in a variety of directions.
  • Use of a light foam body layer helps to minimise the weight of the fabric.
  • Garments and other items can be specifically designed to have particular properties (insulation, protection, flexibility, bends etc.) depending on the purpose of the garment or item.
  • the thickness of the body layer provides insulation and protection, and without the thickness required in some other garments e.g. filled/quilted garments such as puffer jackets.
  • One or more of the layers may be formed of a waterproof or water-resistant material, or may be treated/coated with a waterproof or water-resistant substance.
  • garments constructed of the fabric could be used during physiotherapy sessions, for muscle training practices, or for fitness/suppleness training such as yoga, to highlight which areas of the body are or should be moving.
  • Figure 1 shows a fabric having multiple layers
  • Figure 2 shows a screen printed layer of the fabric of figure 1 ;
  • Figures 3(a) to (d) and (e) respectively show laser cutting patterns and a garment formed by forming and cutting a fabric
  • Figures 4(a) to (h) and (i) respectively show laser cutting patterns and a garment formed by forming and cutting a fabric
  • FIGS. 5 and 6 show close-ups of manufactured fabrics. Detailed description of embodiments of the invention
  • Figure 1 shows an expanded view of layers of a fabric 10 constructed in accordance with a method according to an embodiment of the invention.
  • the fabric 10 has a first or base layer 20 and a second or body layer 30.
  • the body layer 30 is affixed to the base layer 20 with adhesive.
  • the adhesive may be provided in the form of a layer or film 40.
  • a third, upper or surface layer 50 may be provided on the body layer 30.
  • the surface layer 50 may be affixed to the body layer 30 with adhesive.
  • the adhesive may be provided in the form of a layer or film 60.
  • the base layer 20 is preferably a moveable or flexible fabric. More preferably the base layer 20 is a stretchable fabric such as cotton jersey. In an embodiment the fabric base layer 20 is 100% cotton jersey, but in other embodiments the fabric could comprise less than 100% cotton blended with other fibres. Although cotton is mentioned as a specific embodiment, any stretch, preferably lightweight, fabric could be used. A synthetic fabric may be used. The fabric may be waterproof or water- resistant. The material may have a thickness of approximately 1 mm. Such a thickness has been shown to provide strength to the fabric 10, whilst still allowing movement. However, fabrics of other thicknesses may also be used, e.g. with a thickness of between 0.5mm and 1.5mm.
  • the body layer 30 preferably is or comprises a lightweight material, such as a foam.
  • the foam may be closed cell or open cell.
  • the body layer 30 is an open cell polyurethane foam.
  • the body layer 30 is a closed cell polyethylene foam.
  • the foam is about 0.5-0.6cm thick, but it will be appreciated that foams of other thicknesses can be used.
  • the foam is preferably uniformly thick across its extent, but in some embodiments there may be one or more areas of varying thicknesses. It is advantageous to use polyurethane foam, as it has good thermal insulating properties, low moisture-vapour permeability, high resistance to water absorption, and relatively high mechanical strength. It is available in different densities, allowing an appropriate foam to be chosen dependent upon the intended use of the fabric 10.
  • a foam having a thickness of about 0.6cm thick is used, as this thickness has been found to provide a good range of movement whilst still providing the same protective qualities e.g. as wadding used in puffer jackets.
  • the foam of the body layer 30 may be dyed to provide it with a desired colour.
  • the foam is acid dyed but other fabric/foam dyeing techniques may be used.
  • the surface layer 50 is a fabric layer, and may be a synthetic fabric layer.
  • the surface layer is a synthetic/polymer fabric such as polyester.
  • the fabric may be 100% polyester.
  • the fabric layer 50 could comprise less than 100% polyester blended with other fibres. Polyester has been found to enable clean laser cutting, as will be discussed further below.
  • fabric 50 may be or may comprise a plastics material, silk and other natural fibres. Any fabric 50 that is lightweight to allow for the most movement possible may be used.
  • the body layer 30 underlying the upper layer 50 is of a different colour, so the thickness/opacity of the upper layer 50 preferably does not permit the colour of the body layer underneath to be seen through the material 30.
  • the upper surface of the foam layer 30 may be sprayed or painted or have a film of material applied to it, e.g. to provide a colour or particular surface property to the upper surface of the body layer 30.
  • the surface layer 50 may be screen printed to colour the fabric 20.
  • Figure 2 shows an area of screen printed fabric 52. Any suitable desired screen print can be used (e.g. high gloss, patterns, prints etc.). Alternatively, sublimation or digital printing may be used, or the fabric could be dyed or pre-dyed (i.e. already coloured or patterned).
  • the base layer 20 is coloured or otherwise treated as needed, or a fabric 20 is used that has been pre- coloured or pre-treated if required.
  • the fabric 20 is cut to a desired size (pre- or post- colouring/treating as needed).
  • the foam 30 is coloured (e.g.
  • the foam 30 is cut to a desired size (pre- or post- colouring/treating as needed). If a separate surface layer 50 is to be used, this is coloured or otherwise treated as needed, or a layer 50 is used that has been pre- coloured or pre-treated if required. The layer 50 is cut to a desired size (pre- or post- colouring/treating as needed). Alternatively, the upper surface of the foam layer 30 is coloured/treated if desired e.g. by spraying, painting colour on to it.
  • the foam layer 30 is adhered to the base layer 20.
  • the foam layer 30 is adhered to the base layer 20, which may be a stretchy material, in its normal state (i.e. not stretched). Alternatively it may be desirable to pre-stretch the base layer 20 slightly to impart some tension into the layer 20, or relax it slightly from its rest state. This may help the fabric 10 move in one or more directions once fully constructed.
  • Adhesive may be applied e.g. as a film 40 to the base layer 20 and/or to the body layer 30 before bringing the two layers together to bond.
  • the base layer 20 may be provided flat and the foam layer 30 provided on top of the base layer. It will, however, be appreciated that this need not be the case e.g.
  • the surface layer 50 if used, is adhered to the upper surface of the foam layer 30. Preferably, the surface layer 50 is adhered to the base layer in its normal state (i.e. not stretched). Adhesive may be applied e.g. as a film to the surface layer 50 and/or to the body layer 30 before bringing the two layers together.
  • the surface layer 50 may be provided flat and the foam layer 30 provided on top of the surface layer 50. It will, however, be appreciated that this need not be the case e.g. if the layers are being fed through machinery to construct the fabric 10.
  • the above steps may be performed in any desired order.
  • the resulting structure 10 is a stack of adhered fabric layers 20, 30 and optionally 50.
  • the fabric 10 is cut starting from the surface layer 50 and cutting partially or fully into the body layer 30.
  • Laser cutting is particularly convenient as it is accurate and controllable. The depth of cutting can be defined depending on the material(s) being used.
  • the stack is laser cut to extend all the way through the surface layer 50 and body layer 30 but stopping at the base layer 20, leaving that intact. In other embodiments, the laser cutting only extends part way through the foam layer 30.
  • a pattern can be defined for laser cutting the fabric 10.
  • Figures 3(a)-(d) show laser cutting patterns for cutting/etching four pieces of fabric stack 10 A , 10 B , 10 c , 10 D .
  • the four pieces of material 10 A , 10 B , 10 c , 10 D are joined to form a finished garment 70, shown in Figure 3(e).
  • the fabric pieces 10 A , 10 B , 10 c , 10 D may be stitched together.
  • One piece of fabric 10 may be provided with a seam allowance of about 2cm and another piece of fabric 10 with a seam allowance of about 1 cm may be placed on top.
  • the fabric pieces may then be stitched along the trench of the seam allowance on the surface layer, which is sandwiched over the bottom seam allowance, which provides a stitch line in the middle of the 2cm seam allowance.
  • the pieces of fabric 10 may be joined by knitting, linking, RF welding or any other fabric- joining technique.
  • the base layer 20 and foam layer 30 are dark/black in colour and the upper layer/coating 50 is light/white to give a colour contrast between them that becomes visible when the cut sections of the surface layer 50 and foam layer 30 become separated when the fabric 10 bends.
  • the pattern for laser cutting may be chosen to give a particular appearance when the garment 10 is being worn by a person and the fabric 10 is urged to bend/distort around features of a person's body.
  • the laser cutting patterns of Figures 3(a)-(d) are mainly curves/irregular lines extending the length of the fabric pieces10 A , 10 B , 10 c , 10 D .
  • Figure 3(e) shows how the colour of the foam layer 30 is exposed due to the fabric bending around the wearer's body.
  • the laser patterns may be designed/chosen to provide maximum movement/flexibility in a given region of the fabric in a given direction or plurality of directions, depending on its use/application.
  • Figures 4(a)-(h) show fabric pieces 10 E , 10 F , 10 G , 10 H , 10
  • , 10j, 10 K , 10 L here are cut with a more geometric/straight line pattern.
  • , 10j, 10 K , 10 L have multiple straight line cuts to form slits in the fabric 10 E , 10 F , 10 G , 10 H , 10
  • , 10j, 10 K , 10 L have crossing cuts to form smaller individual pieces of foam 30 and surface layer 50 that project from the base layer 20 e.g. with a cube or cuiboid form.
  • FIG. 4(i) shows a garment 80 formed from fabric 10 cut as shown in figures 4(a)-(h).
  • Figure 5 shows a close up of part of a piece of fabric 10 formed with such a base layer 20, foam layer 30 and surface layer 50 laser cut with one-directional lines and bidirectional lines.
  • Figure 6 shows a close up of part of another piece of fabric 10 formed with a base layer 20, foam layer 30 and surface layer 50 laser cut (all the same colour) with one- directional lines and bi-directional lines.
  • This illustrates how a fabric 10 can be provided with straight line bi-directional cuts to form cubes of foam 30 and curved cuts to form arcs of foam 30.
  • Such a construction may improve flexibility and conformity to underlying objects or a particular shape.
  • Standard laser cutting techniques can be used, and so details are not provided. Aspects and embodiments of the invention utilise laser cutting but define a specific pattern (depending on the fabric/garment required and its intended use/appearance) to be cut or etched into the fabric 10 to a predetermined depth.
  • the pattern is provided by a computing device to the laser cutter and that pattern is transferred/etched/cut into the fabric.
  • the depth of laser cutting is chosen depending on the thickness of the foam layer 30.
  • Laser cutting is advantageously quick, accurate and clean, but other cutting methods could be used, including die cutting and manual cutting with a sharp blade.
  • other CNC machine cutting or water jet cutting could be used to cut the body layer 30 (and upper layer 50 if used).
  • shapes e.g.
  • a pre-cut body layer 30 could also be affixed to the base layer 20.
  • a Lotus laser cutter (Blu RF125) was used with the following settings: For a 5mm thick foam layer 30:
  • the adhesive is preferably a hard-wearing adhesive.
  • the same or a different adhesive may be used to adhere the upper layer 50 to the body layer 30 and the body layer 30 to the base layer 20.
  • adhesive film/tape Bemis 3415 Sewfree® tape may be used. This advantageously withstands the laser cutting well, and withstands washing at 60°C.
  • a central base layer/substrate 20 is provided and foam layers 30 (and optionally surface layers 50) are provided on each side thereof.
  • the fabric 10 so formed would be constructed with corresponding steps described above, to form facets on both external surfaces. Such a fabric could be used for a mat, decorative hanging etc.
  • the base layer 20 could be omitted and cutting into the foam on each side controlled so as to not extend through the entire depth of the foam - i.e. leave a central band un-cut.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Thermal Sciences (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention a trait à un tissu (10) comprenant une couche de base souple (20) et une couche de corps (30). La couche de corps présente des première et seconde surfaces définissant une profondeur de matériau de couche de corps entre elles. La couche de corps est fixée à la couche de base au niveau de sa seconde surface. La couche de corps comprend une ou plusieurs découpes s'étendant partiellement ou complètement à travers sa profondeur depuis sa première surface vers sa seconde surface et la couche de base. L'invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication du tissu.
PCT/GB2018/051572 2017-06-08 2018-06-08 Tissu et procédé de fabrication d'un tissu Ceased WO2018224845A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GBGB1709109.1A GB201709109D0 (en) 2017-06-08 2017-06-08 Fabric and method of making a fabric
GB1709109.1 2017-06-08

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2018224845A1 true WO2018224845A1 (fr) 2018-12-13

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GB (1) GB201709109D0 (fr)
WO (1) WO2018224845A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2022107036A1 (fr) * 2020-11-19 2022-05-27 Nk Technology Limited Structure composite mise à l'échelle

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1991010476A1 (fr) * 1990-01-09 1991-07-25 O'neill, Inc. Vetement pour activites aquatiques presentant une elasticite amelioree et son procede de fabrication
GB2368775A (en) * 2000-11-11 2002-05-15 Simon George Turner Material for protective padding
WO2008146289A2 (fr) * 2007-05-29 2008-12-04 Celine Tezartes-Strauss Vêtement avec coussinets de protection incorporés
WO2010104868A2 (fr) * 2009-03-09 2010-09-16 Nike International, Ltd. Éléments de rembourrage pour habillement et autres produits
EP2283738A1 (fr) * 2009-08-11 2011-02-16 Adidas Ag Coussinet pour vêtement, vêtement matelassé et procédé
US20130025037A1 (en) * 2011-07-25 2013-01-31 Nike, Inc. Articles Of Apparel Incorporating Cushioning Elements
EP3050448A1 (fr) * 2015-02-02 2016-08-03 Charles Owen & Company (Bow) Limited Stratifié de protection corporelle

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1991010476A1 (fr) * 1990-01-09 1991-07-25 O'neill, Inc. Vetement pour activites aquatiques presentant une elasticite amelioree et son procede de fabrication
GB2368775A (en) * 2000-11-11 2002-05-15 Simon George Turner Material for protective padding
WO2008146289A2 (fr) * 2007-05-29 2008-12-04 Celine Tezartes-Strauss Vêtement avec coussinets de protection incorporés
WO2010104868A2 (fr) * 2009-03-09 2010-09-16 Nike International, Ltd. Éléments de rembourrage pour habillement et autres produits
EP2283738A1 (fr) * 2009-08-11 2011-02-16 Adidas Ag Coussinet pour vêtement, vêtement matelassé et procédé
US20130025037A1 (en) * 2011-07-25 2013-01-31 Nike, Inc. Articles Of Apparel Incorporating Cushioning Elements
EP3050448A1 (fr) * 2015-02-02 2016-08-03 Charles Owen & Company (Bow) Limited Stratifié de protection corporelle

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2022107036A1 (fr) * 2020-11-19 2022-05-27 Nk Technology Limited Structure composite mise à l'échelle

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