WO2018224845A1

WO2018224845A1 - Fabric and method of making a fabric

Info

Publication number: WO2018224845A1
Application number: PCT/GB2018/051572
Authority: WO
Inventors: Rhiannon WAKEFIELD
Original assignee: Royal College of Art
Current assignee: Royal College of Art
Priority date: 2017-06-08
Filing date: 2018-06-08
Publication date: 2018-12-13
Anticipated expiration: 2019-12-08
Also published as: GB201709109D0

Abstract

A fabric (10) comprises a flexible base layer (20) and a body layer (30). The body layer has first and second surfaces defining a depth of body layer material between them. The body layer is affixed to the base layer at its second surface. The body layer comprises one or more cuts extending partially or completely through its depth from its first surface towards its second surface and the base layer. A method of manufacturing the fabric is also disclosed.

Description

Fabric and Method of Making a Fabric

Technical Field The present invention relates to a fabric and method of making the same. The fabric is a multi-layered and multi-faceted fabric.

Background to the Invention A wide variety of fabrics and materials are currently available, and there have been many innovations in the fabric and clothing industries to address specific problems. A variety of water and windproof, and water- and wind-resistant fabrics and materials have been developed to provide protection in adverse weather conditions. Some garments are designed to provide insulation in very cold conditions, or to be very breathable for very hot or humid climates. Such garments are primarily designed with that technical function in mind, with less emphasis on their appearance. However, people are also concerned with what the garments they wear look like. It is, however, also important that garments be practical and allow the person wearing them a good range of movements.

Aspects and embodiments of the present invention have been devised with the foregoing in mind.

Summary of the invention

According to a first aspect of the present invention there is provided a fabric as defined in claim 1.

The body layer may be affixed to the base layer with adhesive.

In an embodiment, the fabric further comprises a surface layer or coating provided on the first surface of the body layer, wherein the surface layer/coating is cut corresponding to the cutting of the body layer. The surface layer may be affixed to the body layer, optionally or preferably with adhesive. The surface layer may be or comprise a fabric. The surface layer preferably is or comprises a synthetic material such as polyester or a plastics material. The surface layer may be sprayed onto the body layer, spread on or otherwise applied. Alternatively, a natural material could be used, e.g. cotton, silk, viscose or leather. The base layer may be a stretchable fabric and, optionally or preferably may be or comprise cotton. Cotton is a convenient material to use, because it is widely available and its insulating/ventilation properties, durability and stretch make it particularly suitable for clothing. Alternatively, a synthetic material may be used. The material may be waterproof or water-resistant.

The surface layer and the base layer may, in an embodiment, be or comprise the same material.

The body layer may be or comprise a foam. The foam may be an open cell foam or a closed cell foam.

In an embodiment, the fabric is cut by laser cutting. The fabric may be cut with one or more straight and/or curved lines and, optionally or preferably, the fabric may be cut with one or more straight and/or curved lines that intersect one another. Laser cutting is particularly convenient as it is accurate, fast and controllable. The fabric may be cut by any suitable mechanical, chemical or optical means.

One or more of the layers of the fabric may be coloured. According to a second aspect of the present invention there is provided a garment as defined in claim 1 1.

According to a third aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of manufacturing a fabric as defined in claim 12.

The method may further comprise providing a surface layer or coating on the first surface of the body layer, and cutting the coating and the body layer together. The surface layer may be affixed to the body layer, optionally or preferably with adhesive. The surface layer may be or comprise a fabric and, optionally or preferably is or comprises a synthetic material such as polyester or cotton. The base layer may be a stretchable fabric and, optionally or preferably is or comprises cotton. Cotton is a convenient material to use, because it is widely available and its insulating/ventilation properties, durability and stretch make it particularly suitable for clothing.

The body layer may be or comprise a foam and, optionally or preferably, an open cell foam.

In an embodiment, the cutting is or comprises laser cutting according to a digital pattern. The method may comprise cutting one or more straight and/or curved lines into the fabric and, optionally or preferably, cutting one or more straight and/or curved lines into the fabric that intersect one another. Laser cutting is particularly convenient as it is accurate, fast and controllable. The method may comprise screen printing or dyeing any one or more layers of the fabric.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of forming a garment as defined in claim 21.

In aspects and embodiments of the invention, the layering and cutting of the fabric advantageously allows for and reacts to physical movement whilst retaining its insulation and protective properties. The multiple facets provide a fabric that can change colour with movement of the fabric. The combination of cutting the particular layer fabrication, leaving the under layer intact, creates the finished form.

Using a flexible, preferably stretchable, fabric base layer maximises movement and is a key contributor to the malleability of the constructed fabric. Cutting through all or a majority of the depth of the body layer further provides flexibility and malleability.

Advantageously, aspects and embodiments of the invention allow for a potentially thick fabric to be worn in an exceptionally flexible and tactile way, whilst retaining its insulating and protective properties. The combination of the (stretchy) base layer and the laser cut upper layer(s) frees the fabric from being cumbersome and maximises movement in a variety of directions. Use of a light foam body layer helps to minimise the weight of the fabric. Garments and other items can be specifically designed to have particular properties (insulation, protection, flexibility, bends etc.) depending on the purpose of the garment or item. Advantageously, the thickness of the body layer provides insulation and protection, and without the thickness required in some other garments e.g. filled/quilted garments such as puffer jackets. One or more of the layers may be formed of a waterproof or water-resistant material, or may be treated/coated with a waterproof or water-resistant substance.

Additionally, when a person moves in one of the garments, it can highlight the movements their body makes. This is especially true when the surface layer is a different colour to the body layer and/or the base layer. This has potential uses in medical and sportswear applications. For example, garments constructed of the fabric could be used during physiotherapy sessions, for muscle training practices, or for fitness/suppleness training such as yoga, to highlight which areas of the body are or should be moving.

Features which are described in the context of separate aspects and embodiments of the invention may be used together and/or be interchangeable. Similarly, where features are, for brevity, described in the context of a single embodiment, these may also be provided separately or in any suitable sub-combination. Features described in connection with the fabric and garments/items made of the fabric may have corresponding features definable with respect to the method(s) and these embodiments are specifically envisaged and are interchangeable.

Embodiments of the invention will now be described with reference to the Figures of the accompanying drawings in which: Figure 1 shows a fabric having multiple layers;

Figure 2 shows a screen printed layer of the fabric of figure 1 ;

Figures 3(a) to (d) and (e) respectively show laser cutting patterns and a garment formed by forming and cutting a fabric; Figures 4(a) to (h) and (i) respectively show laser cutting patterns and a garment formed by forming and cutting a fabric; and

Figures 5 and 6 show close-ups of manufactured fabrics. Detailed description of embodiments of the invention

Figure 1 shows an expanded view of layers of a fabric 10 constructed in accordance with a method according to an embodiment of the invention. The fabric 10 has a first or base layer 20 and a second or body layer 30. The body layer 30 is affixed to the base layer 20 with adhesive. The adhesive may be provided in the form of a layer or film 40. A third, upper or surface layer 50 may be provided on the body layer 30. The surface layer 50 may be affixed to the body layer 30 with adhesive. The adhesive may be provided in the form of a layer or film 60.

The base layer 20 is preferably a moveable or flexible fabric. More preferably the base layer 20 is a stretchable fabric such as cotton jersey. In an embodiment the fabric base layer 20 is 100% cotton jersey, but in other embodiments the fabric could comprise less than 100% cotton blended with other fibres. Although cotton is mentioned as a specific embodiment, any stretch, preferably lightweight, fabric could be used. A synthetic fabric may be used. The fabric may be waterproof or water- resistant. The material may have a thickness of approximately 1 mm. Such a thickness has been shown to provide strength to the fabric 10, whilst still allowing movement. However, fabrics of other thicknesses may also be used, e.g. with a thickness of between 0.5mm and 1.5mm.

The body layer 30 preferably is or comprises a lightweight material, such as a foam. The foam may be closed cell or open cell. In an embodiment the body layer 30 is an open cell polyurethane foam. In another embodiment, the body layer 30 is a closed cell polyethylene foam. In an embodiment the foam is about 0.5-0.6cm thick, but it will be appreciated that foams of other thicknesses can be used. The foam is preferably uniformly thick across its extent, but in some embodiments there may be one or more areas of varying thicknesses. It is advantageous to use polyurethane foam, as it has good thermal insulating properties, low moisture-vapour permeability, high resistance to water absorption, and relatively high mechanical strength. It is available in different densities, allowing an appropriate foam to be chosen dependent upon the intended use of the fabric 10.

In a preferred embodiment, a foam having a thickness of about 0.6cm thick is used, as this thickness has been found to provide a good range of movement whilst still providing the same protective qualities e.g. as wadding used in puffer jackets. The foam of the body layer 30 may be dyed to provide it with a desired colour. Preferably, the foam is acid dyed but other fabric/foam dyeing techniques may be used.

The surface layer 50 is a fabric layer, and may be a synthetic fabric layer. In an embodiment, the surface layer is a synthetic/polymer fabric such as polyester. The fabric may be 100% polyester. In other embodiments the fabric layer 50 could comprise less than 100% polyester blended with other fibres. Polyester has been found to enable clean laser cutting, as will be discussed further below. In other embodiments, fabric 50 may be or may comprise a plastics material, silk and other natural fibres. Any fabric 50 that is lightweight to allow for the most movement possible may be used. In some embodiments the body layer 30 underlying the upper layer 50 is of a different colour, so the thickness/opacity of the upper layer 50 preferably does not permit the colour of the body layer underneath to be seen through the material 30.

In an alternative embodiment, there is no separate surface layer 50. The upper surface of the foam layer 30 may be sprayed or painted or have a film of material applied to it, e.g. to provide a colour or particular surface property to the upper surface of the body layer 30.

As shown in Figure 2, the surface layer 50 may be screen printed to colour the fabric 20. Figure 2 shows an area of screen printed fabric 52. Any suitable desired screen print can be used (e.g. high gloss, patterns, prints etc.). Alternatively, sublimation or digital printing may be used, or the fabric could be dyed or pre-dyed (i.e. already coloured or patterned). To construct the fabric 10, the following steps are performed. The base layer 20 is coloured or otherwise treated as needed, or a fabric 20 is used that has been pre- coloured or pre-treated if required. The fabric 20 is cut to a desired size (pre- or post- colouring/treating as needed). The foam 30 is coloured (e.g. dyed, acid-dyed) or otherwise treated as needed, or a foam 30 is used that has been pre-coloured or pre- treated if required. Dyeing, and particularly acid-dyeing, the foam 30 to colour the foam can advantageously help mask any charring or burning of the foam that might occur during laser cutting (discussed below). The foam 30 is cut to a desired size (pre- or post- colouring/treating as needed). If a separate surface layer 50 is to be used, this is coloured or otherwise treated as needed, or a layer 50 is used that has been pre- coloured or pre-treated if required. The layer 50 is cut to a desired size (pre- or post- colouring/treating as needed). Alternatively, the upper surface of the foam layer 30 is coloured/treated if desired e.g. by spraying, painting colour on to it.

The foam layer 30 is adhered to the base layer 20. Preferably, the foam layer 30 is adhered to the base layer 20, which may be a stretchy material, in its normal state (i.e. not stretched). Alternatively it may be desirable to pre-stretch the base layer 20 slightly to impart some tension into the layer 20, or relax it slightly from its rest state. This may help the fabric 10 move in one or more directions once fully constructed. Adhesive may be applied e.g. as a film 40 to the base layer 20 and/or to the body layer 30 before bringing the two layers together to bond. The base layer 20 may be provided flat and the foam layer 30 provided on top of the base layer. It will, however, be appreciated that this need not be the case e.g. if the layers are being fed through machinery to construct the fabric 10. Pressure may be applied to force the layers 20, 30 together to improve adhesion, as required. The surface layer 50, if used, is adhered to the upper surface of the foam layer 30. Preferably, the surface layer 50 is adhered to the base layer in its normal state (i.e. not stretched). Adhesive may be applied e.g. as a film to the surface layer 50 and/or to the body layer 30 before bringing the two layers together. The surface layer 50 may be provided flat and the foam layer 30 provided on top of the surface layer 50. It will, however, be appreciated that this need not be the case e.g. if the layers are being fed through machinery to construct the fabric 10.

The above steps may be performed in any desired order. The resulting structure 10 is a stack of adhered fabric layers 20, 30 and optionally 50. The fabric 10 is cut starting from the surface layer 50 and cutting partially or fully into the body layer 30. Laser cutting is particularly convenient as it is accurate and controllable. The depth of cutting can be defined depending on the material(s) being used. In a preferred embodiment, the stack is laser cut to extend all the way through the surface layer 50 and body layer 30 but stopping at the base layer 20, leaving that intact. In other embodiments, the laser cutting only extends part way through the foam layer 30.

A pattern can be defined for laser cutting the fabric 10. Figures 3(a)-(d) show laser cutting patterns for cutting/etching four pieces of fabric stack 10_A, 10_B, 10_c, 10_D. The four pieces of material 10_A, 10_B, 10_c, 10_D are joined to form a finished garment 70, shown in Figure 3(e). The fabric pieces 10_A, 10_B, 10_c, 10_D may be stitched together. One piece of fabric 10 may be provided with a seam allowance of about 2cm and another piece of fabric 10 with a seam allowance of about 1 cm may be placed on top. The fabric pieces may then be stitched along the trench of the seam allowance on the surface layer, which is sandwiched over the bottom seam allowance, which provides a stitch line in the middle of the 2cm seam allowance. Alternatively or additionally, the pieces of fabric 10 may be joined by knitting, linking, RF welding or any other fabric- joining technique.

In the embodiment shown, the base layer 20 and foam layer 30 are dark/black in colour and the upper layer/coating 50 is light/white to give a colour contrast between them that becomes visible when the cut sections of the surface layer 50 and foam layer 30 become separated when the fabric 10 bends. The pattern for laser cutting may be chosen to give a particular appearance when the garment 10 is being worn by a person and the fabric 10 is urged to bend/distort around features of a person's body. The laser cutting patterns of Figures 3(a)-(d) are mainly curves/irregular lines extending the length of the fabric pieces10_A, 10_B, 10_c, 10_D. Figure 3(e) shows how the colour of the foam layer 30 is exposed due to the fabric bending around the wearer's body.

Alternatively, the laser patterns may be designed/chosen to provide maximum movement/flexibility in a given region of the fabric in a given direction or plurality of directions, depending on its use/application. A further example is shown in Figure 4. Figures 4(a)-(h) show fabric pieces 10_E, 10_F, 10_G, 10_H, 10|, 10j, 10_K, 10_L that can be joined to make garment 80. The fabric pieces 10_E, 10_F, 10_G, 10_H, 10|, 10j, 10_K, 10_L here are cut with a more geometric/straight line pattern. Some fabric pieces 10_E, 10_F, 10_G, 10_H, 10|, 10j, 10_K, 10_L have multiple straight line cuts to form slits in the fabric 10_E, 10_F, 10_G, 10_H, 10|, 10j, 10_K, 10_L as before. Some fabric pieces 10_E, 10_F, 10_G, 10_H, 10|, 10j, 10_K, 10_L have crossing cuts to form smaller individual pieces of foam 30 and surface layer 50 that project from the base layer 20 e.g. with a cube or cuiboid form. Such parts of the fabric 10_E, 10_F, 10_G, 10_H, 10|, 10j, 10«, 10I_ provide for greater movement of the fabric 10/garment 80 and more exposure of the foam layer 30 underneath. Figure 4(i) shows a garment 80 formed from fabric 10 cut as shown in figures 4(a)-(h).

Figure 5 shows a close up of part of a piece of fabric 10 formed with such a base layer 20, foam layer 30 and surface layer 50 laser cut with one-directional lines and bidirectional lines. Figure 6 shows a close up of part of another piece of fabric 10 formed with a base layer 20, foam layer 30 and surface layer 50 laser cut (all the same colour) with one- directional lines and bi-directional lines. This illustrates how a fabric 10 can be provided with straight line bi-directional cuts to form cubes of foam 30 and curved cuts to form arcs of foam 30. Such a construction may improve flexibility and conformity to underlying objects or a particular shape.

Standard laser cutting techniques can be used, and so details are not provided. Aspects and embodiments of the invention utilise laser cutting but define a specific pattern (depending on the fabric/garment required and its intended use/appearance) to be cut or etched into the fabric 10 to a predetermined depth. The pattern is provided by a computing device to the laser cutter and that pattern is transferred/etched/cut into the fabric. The depth of laser cutting is chosen depending on the thickness of the foam layer 30. Laser cutting is advantageously quick, accurate and clean, but other cutting methods could be used, including die cutting and manual cutting with a sharp blade. Alternatively, other CNC machine cutting or water jet cutting could be used to cut the body layer 30 (and upper layer 50 if used). Alternatively, shapes (e.g. cubes) could be 3D printed directly onto the fabric base layer 20 or printed and then separately adhered to the base layer 20. A pre-cut body layer 30 could also be affixed to the base layer 20. In tests that have been conducted, a Lotus laser cutter (Blu RF125) was used with the following settings: For a 5mm thick foam layer 30:

-Inner "Score"

Process - Cut

Speed - 100

Power - Min 3 Max 40

-Outer Cut

Process - Cut

Speed - 80

Power - Min 15 Max 90 For a screen print foam, just scoring the surface

Process - Cut

Speed - 80

Power - Min 13 Max 50 The above is merely given as an example. It will be appreciated that other laser cutting machines and settings can be used.

Where the body layer 30 is adhered to the base layer 20 and/or the surface layer 50 to the body layer 30, the adhesive is preferably a hard-wearing adhesive. The same or a different adhesive may be used to adhere the upper layer 50 to the body layer 30 and the body layer 30 to the base layer 20. For example, adhesive film/tape Bemis 3415 Sewfree® tape may be used. This advantageously withstands the laser cutting well, and withstands washing at 60°C. In an alternative embodiment (not shown), a central base layer/substrate 20 is provided and foam layers 30 (and optionally surface layers 50) are provided on each side thereof. The fabric 10 so formed would be constructed with corresponding steps described above, to form facets on both external surfaces. Such a fabric could be used for a mat, decorative hanging etc. In an embodiment the base layer 20 could be omitted and cutting into the foam on each side controlled so as to not extend through the entire depth of the foam - i.e. leave a central band un-cut. From reading the present disclosure, other variations and modifications will be apparent to the skilled person. Such variations and modifications may involve equivalent and other features which are already known in the art, and which may be used instead of, or in addition to, features already described herein.

Although the appended claims are directed to particular combinations of features, it should be understood that the scope of the disclosure of the present invention also includes any novel feature or any novel combination of features disclosed herein either explicitly or implicitly or any generalisation thereof, whether or not it relates to the same invention as presently claimed in any claim and whether or not it mitigates any or all of the same technical problems as does the present invention.

Features which are described in the context of separate embodiments may also be provided in combination in a single embodiment. Conversely, various features which are, for brevity, described in the context of a single embodiment, may also be provided separately or in any suitable sub-combination. The applicant hereby gives notice that new claims may be formulated to such features and/or combinations of such features during the prosecution of the present application or of any further application derived therefrom.

For the sake of completeness it is also stated that the term "comprising" does not exclude other elements or steps, the term "a" or "an" does not exclude a plurality, a single processor or other unit may fulfil the functions of several means recited in the claims and any reference signs in the claims shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the claims.

Claims

1. A fabric comprising a flexible base layer and a body layer, the body layer having first and second surfaces defining a depth of body layer material between; wherein the body layer is affixed to the base layer at its second surface and the body layer comprises one or more cuts extending partially or completely through its depth from its first surface towards its second surface and the base layer.

2. The fabric of claim 1 , wherein the body layer is affixed to the base layer with adhesive.

3. The fabric of claim 1 or 2, further comprising a surface layer or coating provided on the first surface of the body layer, wherein the surface layer/coating is cut corresponding to the cutting of the body layer.

4. The fabric of claim 3, wherein the surface layer is affixed to the body layer, optionally or preferably with adhesive.

5. The fabric of claim 3 or 4, wherein the surface layer is or comprises a fabric and, optionally or preferably is or comprises a synthetic material such as polyester or a natural material such as cotton.

6. The fabric of any preceding claim, wherein the base layer is a stretchable fabric and, optionally or preferably is or comprises a natural material such as cotton or a synthetic material.

7. The fabric of any preceding claim, wherein the body layer is or comprises a foam, an open cell foam or a closed cell foam.

8. The fabric of any preceding claim, wherein the fabric is cut by laser cutting.

9. The fabric of any preceding claim, wherein the fabric is cut with one or more straight and/or curved lines and, optionally or preferably, wherein the fabric is cut with one or more straight and/or curved lines that intersect one another.

10. The fabric of any preceding claim, wherein one or more of the layers of the fabric is coloured.

1 1. A garment or item formed of one or more pieces of fabric according to any preceding claim.

12. A method of manufacturing a fabric, the method comprising:

providing a base layer;

affixing a body layer to the base layer, the body layer having first and second surfaces defining a depth of body layer material between and wherein the body layer is attached to the base layer at its second surface; and

cutting partially or completely through the depth of the body layer from its first surface towards its second surface and the base layer.

13. The method of claim 12, further comprising providing a surface layer or coating on the first surface of the body layer, and cutting the coating and the body layer together.

14. The method of claim 13, further comprising affixing the surface layer to the body layer, optionally or preferably with adhesive.

15. The method of claim 13 or 14, wherein the surface layer is or comprises a fabric and, optionally or preferably is or comprises a synthetic material such as polyester or a natural material such as cotton.

16. The method of any of claims 12 to 15, wherein the base layer is a stretchable fabric and, optionally or preferably is or comprises a natural material such as cotton or a synthetic material.

17. The method of any of claims 12 to 16, wherein the body layer is or comprises a foam, an open cell foam or a closed cell foam.

18. The method of any of claims 12 to 17, wherein the cutting is or comprises laser cutting according to a digital pattern.

19. The method of claim 18, comprising cutting one or more straight and/or curved lines into the fabric and, optionally or preferably, cutting one or more straight and/or curved lines into the fabric that intersect one another.

20. The method of any of claims 12 to 19, comprising printing, screen printing, digital printing, or sublimation and/or dyeing any one or more layers of the fabric.

21. A method of forming a garment or item from one or more pieces of fabric according to any of claims 1 to 1 1 , comprising joining the one or more pieces of fabric together using one or more of stitching, knitting, linking, RF welding.