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WO2013083353A1 - Produits de soin capillaire à texture intéressante - Google Patents

Produits de soin capillaire à texture intéressante Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013083353A1
WO2013083353A1 PCT/EP2012/072250 EP2012072250W WO2013083353A1 WO 2013083353 A1 WO2013083353 A1 WO 2013083353A1 EP 2012072250 W EP2012072250 W EP 2012072250W WO 2013083353 A1 WO2013083353 A1 WO 2013083353A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
polyquaternium
acid
alkyl
total amount
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Marcus KRÜGER
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Publication of WO2013083353A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013083353A1/fr
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions for the care of keratin fibers containing a combination of at least one monoester and at least one diester of optionally alkylated sugars with C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with other specific ingredients, the use of these agents for the care of keratin fibers and a corresponding method ,
  • keratinic fibers in principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • animal hair e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
  • the oxidative treatment keratin braver fibers, especially human hair with the application of an effective fiber protection from environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected.
  • Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for the care of keratinous fibers available, which are characterized by a pleasant product feel, light consistency, good and accurate metering and applicability and non-complaining application. It has now surprisingly been found that non-weighting care products can provide a pleasant nourishing feeling in the hair by incorporating a combination of specific mono and diesters of optionally alkylated sugars with C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with other specific ingredients into the compositions.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, in each case based on the total agent,
  • compositions of the invention contain as the first mandatory component 0, 1 to 15 wt .-% of monoesters of optionally alkylated sugars with C 6 -C 30 fatty acids.
  • monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides and their alkyl-substituted derivatives can be used with particular preference as the sugar component in these monoesters.
  • Particularly preferred monosaccharides are in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose, particularly preferred disaccharides, in particular sucrose (sucrose) and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.
  • alkyl glycosides As a sugar unit of the monoesters of sugars with C 6 -C 30 -fatty acids and alkylated sugars can be used.
  • alkyl glycosides, alkyl oligo- and - polyglycosides have proven useful here.
  • Alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units are particularly preferred.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
  • any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar unit Z.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkylpolyglycosides used as sugar component according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
  • fatty acid unit of the monoesters of optionally alkylated sugars with C 6 -C 30 -fatty acids all C 6 -C 30 -fatty acids can be used; particularly preferred are the saturated acids caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Margarine acid, stearic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, montanic acid, melissic acid.
  • Unsaturated fatty acids may have a double bond in their carbon chain both in (E) and in (ZJ configuration) where with multiple double bonds in the fatty acid both fatty acids with double bonds exclusively in (ZJ configuration, exclusively in (E) configuration or unsaturated fatty acids having an all-fZJ configuration are preferred, unsaturated fatty acids which are preferred according to the invention are palmitoleic acid (C16: 1, 9Z), oleic acid (C18: 1, 9Z), elaidic acid (C18: 1, 9E), Eicosenoic acid (gondoic acid, C20: 1, 11Z), erucic acid (C22: 1, 13Z), nervonic acid (C24: 1, 15Z), linoleic acid (C18: 2, 9Z, 12Z), Y- (gamma) -linolenic acid ( C18: 3; 6Z, 9Z, 12Z), o (alpha) -linolenic acid (C18: 3, 9Z, 12Z, 15Z
  • component a) is selected from sucrose monostearate, sucrose monococoate, methyl glucoside monostearate, ethyl glucoside monolaurate, ethyl glucoside monococoate and butyl glucoside monococoate.
  • cosmetic agents which contain from 0.2 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 5% by weight % and in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% of monoesters of optionally alkylated sugars with C 6 -C 30 fatty acids.
  • the agents according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 15% by weight of diesters of, if desired, alkylated sugars with C 6 -C 30 -fatty acids.
  • Diesters can be derived from the groups mentioned above for the monoesters. It is preferred if the diester is not a mixed diester, but both radicals are derived from the same fatty acid.
  • component b) is selected from sucrose distearate, sucrose-dicocoate, methyl glucoside isostearate, ethyl glucoside dilaurate and ethyl glucoside dicocoate.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention which contain from 0.2 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 5% by weight % and in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% diester of optionally alkylated sugars with C 6 -C 30 fatty acids.
  • a very particularly preferred monoester according to the invention is the sucrose monostearate, a diester which is very particularly preferred according to the invention is the sucrose distearate.
  • these two compounds are used together, with particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention 0.25 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.6 to 3 wt .-% and in particular From 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose monostearate and 0.25 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose distearate.
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one zwitterionic and / or ampholyte surfactant.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which have in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ _) - or -S0 3 ⁇ _) group carry Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 C -Atomen in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarb
  • Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 - C 2 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts ,
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • ampholytic surfactants are alkylbetaines, N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and d 2 - C 8 - sarcosine. Most preferred are alkylbetaines, especially coco betaines.
  • the zwitterionic and / or ampholytic surfactants are in a total amount of 0 to 10.0 wt.%, Preferably in a total amount of 0, 1 to 9.0 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0, 1 to 8.0% by weight, most preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 7.0% by weight, and most preferably in a total amount of 0.5 to 5.0% by weight.
  • the amount of zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant affects how much foamed composition is obtained. It is possible to use no zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant. However, if more than 10.0 wt.% Is used, the composition may be foamed so much that the resulting foam is not sufficiently stable, so that the entire foamed composition can be filled and over months even when stored at 45 ° C above stable for at least three months.
  • At least one gelling agent as the fourth obligatory component.
  • Anionic gellants could be used if cationic and / or amphoteric compounds are not used simultaneously in the compositions.
  • Gelling agents form a structure which increases the viscosity of the composition. This can be done in the simplest case by the fact that the gelling agent has a thread-like structure and there are numerous possibilities for the formation of associates along the thread.
  • Preferred gel formers having a space-network structure are, for example, starch derivatives such as Structure® XL and Structure® ZEA, gelatin and derivatized gelatin, agar-agar, pectins, in particular apple pectin, sheet silicates, for example bentonites, montmorillonites, alginates, chitosans, dextrin, gellan, Cellulose and cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, guar and guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, magnesium aluminum silicates, polyethyleneimines, carrageenans, polyquaternium-37, dimethylacrylamide / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate copolymer, polyquaternium-71, polyquaternium-77, polyquaternium-78, polyquaternium-79, polyquaternium 80, Polyquaternium-81, Polyquaternium-82 and mixtures thereof.
  • starch derivatives such as Structure® XL and Structure
  • gelling agents are Structure® XL and Structure® ZEA, hydroxyethylcellulose, bentonites, montmorillonites, magnesium aluminum silicates, polyethyleneimines, carrageenans, polyquaternium-37, dimethylacrylamide / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate copolymer and mixtures thereof.
  • Most preferred are Structure® XL, hydroxyethylcellulose, bentonites, Polyquaternium-37, dimethylacrylamide / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate copolymer and mixtures thereof.
  • At least one gelling agent is used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, and most preferably from 0 , 3 to 4.0 wt. Used.
  • composition described above after its preparation, which may optionally also be carried out at temperatures up to 90 ° C, and the cooling to room temperature foamed by conventional methods. This can be done on the one hand by intensive stirring by means of a whisk or similar agitator.
  • air, CO 2 , argon, nitrogen or another inert gas is bubbled through the composition.
  • Special homogenizers are sold, for example, by the company Haas under the name Mondomix. Particularly preferred is the passage of nitrogen.
  • the inert gas is passed through until the volume of the composition has risen to 5 times the starting value. An increase of the volume fourfold is preferred. Particularly preferred is an increase in the volume of three times.
  • the density of the composition after this foaming with an inert gas is 0.20 to 0.75 g / cm 3 , preferably 0.20 to 0.70 g / cm 3 , more preferably 0.25 to 0.65 g / cm 3 , more preferably 0.25 to 0.60 g / cm 3, and most preferably 0.3 to 0.6 g / cm 3 , measured at room temperature, about 23 ° C and atmospheric pressure.
  • the composition comprises, but not preferred, is also to be used as an inert gas for foaming the composition, a propellant gas.
  • a propellant gas for foaming the composition, a propellant gas.
  • the composition is filled together with a conventional propellant in an aerosol container. The foaming to the corresponding up to five times the volume then takes place just before the application.
  • all propellant gases known to the person skilled in the art and usable for this purpose can be used.
  • At least one wax having a melting point in a range from 40 ° C. to 90 ° C. and in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight is contained in the composition according to the invention.
  • the wax according to the invention acts as a stabilizer for the foamed composition in the composition according to the invention. At the same time it advantageously supports the effects of the composition on the keratinic fiber.
  • waxes are of solid to brittle hard consistency, coarse to fine crystalline, translucent to opaque, but not glassy, and melt above 40 ° C without decomposition. They are already slightly above the melting point low viscosity and show a strong temperature-dependent consistency and solubility.
  • Preference according to the invention for example, natural vegetable waxes, z. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugarcane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple waxes, pear waxes, orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g. Beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti.
  • hydrogenated or hydrogenated waxes may be particularly preferred to use hydrogenated or hydrogenated waxes.
  • a wax component and chemically modified waxes especially the hard waxes, such as.
  • montan ester waxes hydrogenated jojoba waxes and Sasol waxes used.
  • Synthetic waxes which are also preferable in the invention include, for example, polyalkylene waxes, especially polyethylene waxes, and polyethylene glycol, C 2 ° C 40 - dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C 30 -5o-alkyl and alkylaryl esters of Alkylbienenwachs and dimer fatty acids.
  • a particularly preferred wax component is selected from at least one ester of a saturated monohydric C 6 -C 50 alcohol and a saturated C 8 -C 3 6-monocarboxylic acid.
  • lactides the cyclic double esters of alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids of the corresponding chain length, also belong thereto.
  • Esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols have proved to be particularly advantageous for the inventively preferred compositions.
  • the esters are composed of saturated, branched or unbranched monocarboxylic acids and saturated, branched or unbranched monohydric alcohols.
  • esters of aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids eg 12-hydroxystearic acid
  • saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols can be used according to the invention, provided that this wax component has a melting point> 50 ° C. It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of esters of saturated, branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 12 to 24 carbon atoms and the saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 16 to 50 carbon atoms, which has a melting point > 50 ° C.
  • wax component C 16 . 36 alkyl stearates and C 18 _ 38 - Alkylhydroxystearoylstearate C 2 o-4o-Alkylerucate and cetearyl be preferred.
  • This wax or these wax components have a melting point> 50 ° C, preferably> 60 ° C, on.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component a C 20 -C 40 -alkyl stearate. This ester is known under the name Kester ® K82H or Kesterwachs ® K80H and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc..
  • a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component cetearyl behenate, ie mixtures of cetyl behenate and stearyl behenate. This ester is known under the name Kester ® K62 and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc..
  • wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C 2-30 fatty acids such as hydrogenated triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin), or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, further synthetic full esters of fatty acids and glycols or polyols having 2-6 carbon atoms, as long as they have a melting point above 50 ° C, for example preferably C 18 -C 38 Acid triglycerides (Syncrowax ® HGL-C).
  • hydrogenated castor oil obtainable, for example, as wax component is available.
  • Cutina ® HR particularly preferred.
  • lipid or wax components having a melting point> 50 ° C are the saturated linear C 4 -C 36 carboxylic acids, in particular myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid and mixtures of these compounds, for.
  • lipid or wax components with a melting point in the range of 30- 150 ° C are linear, saturated C. 8 30- fatty acids.
  • Linear, saturated C 10 -22 fatty acids are preferred.
  • Preferred fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and technical mixtures thereof.
  • Particularly preferred is the use of stearic acid.
  • the fatty acids used can carry one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferred examples of these are the ⁇ -hydroxy C 8 -C 18 carboxylic acids and 12-hydroxystearic acid.
  • lipid or wax components having a melting point in the range of 30-150 ° C are fatty alcohols.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, unbranched fatty alcohols having 6-30, preferably 10-22 and very particularly preferably 12-22 carbon atoms.
  • Applicable for the purposes of the invention are z. Decanol, octanol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, 12-hydroxystearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component is selected from esters of a saturated monohydric C 16 -C 60 alkanol and a saturated C 6 -C 36 monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C 2 oC 40 alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C 2 -C 30 -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C 4 -C 36 -carboxylic acids and mixtures of the abovementioned substances.
  • esters of a saturated monohydric C 16 -C 60 alkanol and a saturated C 6 -C 36 monocarboxylic acid in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C 2 oC 40 alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C 2 -C 30 -carboxylic acids
  • Particularly preferred wax component blends are selected from mixtures of cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid. Further particularly preferred wax component mixtures are selected from mixtures of C 20 -C 40 -alkyl stearate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component is selected from mixtures of esters of a saturated monohydric C 6 -C 6 o-alkanol and a saturated C 8 -C 36 monocarboxylic acid, in particular C 20 -C 40 - alkyl stearate, Glycerintriestern of saturated linear C 2 -C 30 carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular hydrogenated castor oil, and saturated linear C 4 -C 36 carboxylic acids, especially palmitic acid and stearic acid.
  • the wax component is selected from mixtures of esters of a saturated monohydric C 6 -C 6 o-alkanol and a saturated C 8 -C 36 monocarboxylic acid, in particular C 20 -C 40 - alkyl stearate, Glycerintriestern of saturated linear C 2 -C 30 carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular hydrogenated castor oil, and saturated linear C 4 -C 36 carboxylic acids
  • particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 8% by weight. and in particular 0.4 to 5.0 wt .-% of at least one wax from the group beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax and / or cetyl palmitate.
  • compositions of the invention contain the ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent.
  • alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included.
  • Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.
  • Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention are highly hydrous. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain from 40 to 95% by weight, preferably from 45 to 92.5% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 55 to 87 , 5 wt .-% and in particular 60 to 85 wt .-% water.
  • the applicability of the compositions of the invention can be further increased by the use of small amounts of one or more polyhydric alcohols.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain, based on their weight, 0.25 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 3% by weight and in particular 1 to 2.5% by weight. % of at least one polyhydric alcohol from the group glycerol and / or propanediol-1, 2.
  • the agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1.
  • the pH range between 2 and 7 is particularly preferred.
  • the pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.
  • the composition according to the invention further contains at least one quaternary ammonium compound as a care substance.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From these many possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have been found to be particularly suitable and are taken in each case in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.
  • Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form the first group.
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
  • the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
  • hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
  • Examples are: -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,
  • R6-0-CO- wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
  • R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated, and A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
  • anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat ® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
  • Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
  • the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • A stands for an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium 91 is highly preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas: R1 - NH - (CH 2) n - N + R 2 R 3 R 4 A (Tkat3)
  • R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
  • R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
  • hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
  • A is an anion as previously described and
  • n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
  • amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen.
  • the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
  • Witcamine ® 100 Incromine ® BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
  • ammonium halides in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt.%, Based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.
  • the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary
  • Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts.
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • R -H or -CH 3 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C1-4-
  • Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and
  • Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following
  • R is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m is 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ion. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from synthetic polymers are, for example, copolymers of from 0.1 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (I)
  • the monomer A2 represents 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer;
  • a most preferred polymer constructed as previously shown is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.
  • Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 in the trade.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a R b R c A "
  • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
  • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
  • R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably not more than 20 is;
  • a " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
  • Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.
  • Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ® polymer or polymer ® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
  • cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ®.
  • Other commercial products the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L are 200.
  • Mirustyle CP ® of the company Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before.
  • Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
  • Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®.
  • a preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
  • Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
  • vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate for example, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer, available under the Trade names Gafquat 755 N and Gafquat 734 sold by Gaf Co., USA and the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:
  • R -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 2 R 3 R 4 A (_) (monol)
  • R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A ⁇ _) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
  • R 6 and R 7 independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and
  • R 8 -CH CR 9 -COOH (mono 3)
  • R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • acrylic acid is preferably used as the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned.
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
  • the amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer
  • R 0 and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 2 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 8 ) alkyl group.
  • Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to the respective cosmetic products.
  • an agent according to the invention may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
  • Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally care substance (s) - in terms of their weight - in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 Wt .-%, with preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group L-carnitine and / or its salts; Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid; the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives (especially pantolactone); Taurine and / or its salts; niacinamide; ubiquinone; Ectoin; Allantoin.
  • preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group L-carnitine and / or its salts; Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid; the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives (especially pantolactone); Taurine and / or its salts; ni
  • L-carnitine (IUPAC name (R) - (3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl) -A /, A /, A / -trimethylammonium hydroxide) is a naturally occurring, vitamin-like substance.
  • L-carnitine derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are selected in particular from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate.
  • the L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from -0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.05% by weight contain up to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, with preferred L-carnitine derivatives are selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.
  • Panthenol (IUPAC name: (+) - (R) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide) is converted to pantothenic acid in the body.
  • Pantothenic acid is a vitamin from the group of B vitamins (vitamin B5).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight. % and especially 0.25 to 1% by weight of panthenol (( ⁇ ) -2,4-dihydroxy-A / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide).
  • Agents preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7 , 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).
  • compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably Contain 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors, preferably the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin B 5 2,4-dihydroxy-A / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide, provitamin B 5 ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5 ) and / or Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B 3 ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B 2 , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B 7 , vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B 9 , vitamin B c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B 6 and / or vitamin B-I2.
  • Certain quinones have particular suitability as a care enhancer.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% containing at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)
  • n 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).
  • the agents according to the invention may contain ectoin.
  • Ectoine ((4S) - 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid) is a natural product belonging to the group of compatible solutes.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention characterized in that they are used as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected out
  • disaccharides especially sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterines) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the agent according to the invention may be necessary for them to further contain at least one surfactant. This is especially true for skin cleansers and Shampoos. But other means, such as hair rinses, hair treatments and certain styling agents, in particular styling foams, may contain surfactants.
  • cationic surfactants can be used, as described above as suitable care agents. With respect to the preferred cationic surfactants and the amounts used, the above statements apply accordingly.
  • the agents may contain other surfactants or emulsifiers, with both anionic and ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and all types of known emulsifiers being suitable in principle.
  • the group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants may already have emulsifying effect.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
  • R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906,
  • Condensation products of C 8 - C 30 - fat alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is a number from 1 to 20 .
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary Derive alcohols with 4 to 1 1, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. These connections are identified by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • the other surfactants are generally in amounts of 0.1 to 45 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 30 wt .-% and most preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, based on the respective total Composition, used. The amount used depends essentially on the purpose of the agent according to the invention. If it is a shampoo or other cleansing agent, surfactant levels above 45% by weight are also common.
  • compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for cosmetic compositions, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the skin or hair as facial or hair tonic or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes , Gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations which are suitable for use on the skin or hair.
  • compositions of the invention are particularly well suited to stabilize gas bubbles on average.
  • air or other gases or gas mixtures can be incorporated well and with long-term stability in the compositions of the invention. This can optionally be done in the preparation of the means by the means before filling with gas, preferably air, is applied and a product is filled, which contains visible gas bubbles.
  • compositions according to the invention which contain gas bubbles, preferably air bubbles.
  • a fourth subject of the invention is therefore a process for the care of keratinous fibers, in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied to the keratinsichen fibers, is evenly distributed and after a contact time of a few seconds to 45 minutes remains on the keratinic fibers and then again is rinsed out ..
  • a fifth object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for the care of keratinic fibers.
  • the compositions according to the invention and products which contain these agents are distinguished, in particular, by giving a very good combability to wet and dry hair to treated hair, a very pleasant feel to wet and dry hair.
  • compositions of the invention may be used in all cosmetic products
  • compositions were prepared by conventional mixing of the raw materials listed in the table and used by rubbing on the palms and subsequent application to dry or damp hair hair styling.
  • the hair had a soft shine, excellent hairstyle and excellent combing in wet and dry hair.
  • the removability from the crucible proves to be excellent and pleasant for the subjects.
  • the dispersibility and incorporability into the hair is excellent. Due to the interesting texture of the E1 and E2 agents, it was also possible to incorporate air bubbles in the preparation of the agents.
  • the air bubbles had a diameter of 0.1 to 2 mm and were stable even after several weeks of storage of the products.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des produits destinés au soin des fibres kératiniques, lesquels contiennent une association d'au moins un monoester et d'au moins un diester de sucres éventuellement alkylés ayant des acides gras en C6-C30 avec d'autres constituants particuliers, l'utilisation de ces produits pour le soin des fibres kératiniques ainsi qu'un procédé correspondant.
PCT/EP2012/072250 2011-12-07 2012-11-09 Produits de soin capillaire à texture intéressante Ceased WO2013083353A1 (fr)

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Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4786494A (en) * 1985-01-25 1988-11-22 Kao Corporation Shampoo composition
US5507970A (en) * 1992-05-29 1996-04-16 Lion Corporation Detergent composition
EP0875239A2 (fr) * 1997-05-03 1998-11-04 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Utilisation d'esters d'acides gras avec des Di- ou oligosaccharides contre l'adhésion de microorganismes
DE19736906A1 (de) 1997-08-25 1999-03-04 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur Herstellung von sulfatierten Fettsäurealkylenglykolestern
US20030105169A1 (en) * 2001-10-15 2003-06-05 L'oreal Composition in the form of an oil-in water emulsion containing a silicone copolymer and showing a liquid crystalline phase and uses thereof
US20050031547A1 (en) * 2003-08-04 2005-02-10 Foamix Ltd. Oleaginous pharmaceutical and cosmetic foam
US20080069779A1 (en) * 2003-08-04 2008-03-20 Foamix Ltd. Foamable vehicle and vitamin and flavonoid pharmaceutical compositions thereof
EP2042154A1 (fr) * 2007-09-28 2009-04-01 Koninklijke Coöperatie Cosun U.A. Mousse cosmétique
DE102009029110A1 (de) * 2009-09-02 2011-03-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Antimikrobielle Formulierung
US20110086115A1 (en) * 2009-10-12 2011-04-14 Mercier Michel F Vegetal-Derived, Water-Absorbing Composition
WO2012168309A2 (fr) * 2011-06-10 2012-12-13 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produits coiffants à texture intéressante

Patent Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4786494A (en) * 1985-01-25 1988-11-22 Kao Corporation Shampoo composition
US5507970A (en) * 1992-05-29 1996-04-16 Lion Corporation Detergent composition
EP0875239A2 (fr) * 1997-05-03 1998-11-04 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Utilisation d'esters d'acides gras avec des Di- ou oligosaccharides contre l'adhésion de microorganismes
DE19736906A1 (de) 1997-08-25 1999-03-04 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur Herstellung von sulfatierten Fettsäurealkylenglykolestern
US20030105169A1 (en) * 2001-10-15 2003-06-05 L'oreal Composition in the form of an oil-in water emulsion containing a silicone copolymer and showing a liquid crystalline phase and uses thereof
US20050031547A1 (en) * 2003-08-04 2005-02-10 Foamix Ltd. Oleaginous pharmaceutical and cosmetic foam
US20080069779A1 (en) * 2003-08-04 2008-03-20 Foamix Ltd. Foamable vehicle and vitamin and flavonoid pharmaceutical compositions thereof
EP2042154A1 (fr) * 2007-09-28 2009-04-01 Koninklijke Coöperatie Cosun U.A. Mousse cosmétique
DE102009029110A1 (de) * 2009-09-02 2011-03-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Antimikrobielle Formulierung
US20110086115A1 (en) * 2009-10-12 2011-04-14 Mercier Michel F Vegetal-Derived, Water-Absorbing Composition
WO2012168309A2 (fr) * 2011-06-10 2012-12-13 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produits coiffants à texture intéressante

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