WO2013064403A1 - Bodily cleansing by means of low-surfactant systems - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic cleaning agent which, in a cosmetic carrier, comprises (a) 1 to 6 wt % of at least one alkyl(ether) sulfate of the general formula R-(OCH₂-CH₂)_x-O-SO₃ ^-X⁺, in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 C-atoms, x represents one of the numbers 0 or 1 to 12 and X⁺ represents an alkali metal or an ammonium ion, and (b) 0.5 to 5 wt % of at least one amphoteric surfactant of the general formula (I), where R represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a) : (b) equals 1.5:1 to 1:1.2 and wherein the quantity specifications refer to the total weight of the cleaning agent.

Description

 "Body cleansing with surfactant-poor systems"

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to mild detergents containing a special surfactant mixture.

Cosmetic cleaners, such as hair shampoos, shower baths or bath preparations, are based on conventional anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic and / or cationic surfactants.

 Due to their excellent cleaning and foaming power predominantly anionic surfactants, optionally in the mixture with small amounts of co-surfactants used.

 Typical anionic surfactants used in a variety of commercially available shampoos are alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates.

Surfactants soften the skin during the cleaning process and remove lipids from the outer skin layers. As a result, the skin can become dry, brittle and sometimes cracked, especially after frequent cleaning with commercially available cleaning agents, unless they are returned to lipids in the form of creams, lotions and / or care baths after or during cleaning.

In the past, numerous attempts have been made to produce milder cosmetic cleansers that dry the skin less and dispel another step of treatment.

 For example, mild anionic surfactants (such as alkyl ether sulfates) have been combined with mild amphoteric and / or mild nonionic surfactants, and innumerable detergents containing high levels of conditioning and / or restreasing agents have been developed.

The problem with preparing milder compositions with a high proportion of conditioning components is often the stabilization of the compositions.

The absence of anionic surfactants in favor of nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants often led to detergents with unsatisfactory foam properties.

 In addition, some active substances and / or auxiliaries could no longer be satisfactorily stabilized in cosmetic cleansing compositions with a decreasing content of anionic surfactants.

The present invention therefore an object of the invention to produce mild cosmetic cleanser with good foam properties.

In particular, the optimal balance between cleansing, mildness and care of cosmetic cleaners should be found. The cleaning agents should be stable, have a rich texture and be thickened as possible without the compelling addition of polymeric compounds.

The invention relates to a cosmetic cleanser which is in a cosmetic

carrier

 (A) 1 to 6 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (ether) sulfate of the general formula

R- (OCH ₂ -CH ₂ ) x -O-SO ₃ ^" X ⁺ , in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms, x is one of the numbers 0 or 1 to and X ⁺ an alkali metal or an ammonium ion, and

 (b) 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant of the general formula (I)

contains

 in the R a straight-chain or branched, saturated or one or more times

 unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1, 2 and wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the cleaning agent.

A suitable cosmetic carrier is preferably understood as meaning an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.

 Preferably, the cosmetic carrier contains at least 50 wt .-%, more preferably at least 60 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 70 wt .-% water.

 Furthermore, the cosmetic carrier may contain 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 35% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 30% by weight of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.

Preference is given to the water-soluble alcohols.

 Particularly preferred are ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol and mixtures of these alcohols.

Especially preferred is glycerin. To achieve optimum mildness and care, cleaners according to the invention contain only small amounts of the surfactants (a) and (b) in a specific weight ratio of from 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.2.

 It has been found that the cleaning agents according to the invention form a particularly fine and creamy foam when the weight ratio of the surfactants (a) :( b) preferably 1.45: 1 to

1: 1 and in particular 1, 4: 1 to 1, 2: 1.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the total surfactant content in the detergents according to the invention is at most 12% by weight, preferably at most 11% by weight and in particular at most 10% by weight, the quantities given being based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleanser.

Particularly suitable alkyl sulfate and / or alkylpolyglycol ether sulfate salts (a) which can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention are straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates which have an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms owing to their very good foaming properties and mildness , and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units.

 Particular preference is given to the sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates which have a medium degree of ethoxylation of

2 to 4 have.

The alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl polyglycol ether sulfate salt (s) (a) of the abovementioned formula is (are) preferably used in the cleaning agents according to the invention in amounts of from 2 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably from 4 to 6% by weight and in particular from 5 to 6% by weight, the quantities given being based on the total weight of the cleaning agent.

Suitable amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (b) of the formula (I) are (are) in the cleaning agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably from 2 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 3 used to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 3.5 to 4.5 wt .-%, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the cleaning agent.

Preferred amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants of the abovementioned formula (I) contain, as radical R, predominantly a straight-chain or branched, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 20, more preferably 8 to 16 and in particular 8 to 12 ° C - atoms.

More preferred are amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants of the aforementioned formula (I), in which the radical R is derived from coconut oil. Particularly preferred is an amphoteric surfactant known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine and commercially available from several suppliers.

In a first preferred embodiment, cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight,

(A) 2 to 6 wt .-%, more preferably from 3 to 6 wt .-% of at least one straight or branched alkyl ether sulfate having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular having 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units, and

(b) from 1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the aforementioned formula (I), in which R is predominantly a straight-chain or branched, saturated, or polyunsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 20, more preferably having 8 to 16 and in particular having 8 to 12 carbon atoms,

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 45: 1 to 1: 1.

Within this embodiment, it is more preferable if the cleaning agents according to the invention - based on their total weight -

(A) 4 to 6 wt .-% of at least one sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salt of a linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfate, which has a mean degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4, and

 (B) 3 to 5 wt .-% of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the aforementioned formula (I), in which the radical R derived from coconut oil, wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) 1 , 45: 1 to 1: 1.

Particularly preferred cosmetic cleaners of this embodiment contain - based on their total weight -

(A) 5 to 6 wt .-% of at least one ammonium, magnesium and / or Natriumlaurylethersulfats having a mean degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4, and

(b) 3.5 to 4.5% by weight of at least one below the INCI name

 Cocamidopropyl betaine known amphoteric surfactant,

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 4: 1 to 1, 2: 1.

To achieve a particularly creamy, rich texture, it is furthermore advantageous if the cleaners according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 , 1 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 2 wt .-% of at least one opacifier and / or pearlescing agent (c).

Examples of suitable pearlescing agents and opacifiers (c) are - mono- and / or diesters of ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol and / or glycerol with C ₈ - C ₂ 4 fatty acids,

- Esters of polyethylene glycols with C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acids and / or

 - To understand styrene / acrylate copolymers.

Particularly suitable are the clouding and / or pearlescing agents (c) known under the INCI names:

Glycol Distearate, such as the commercial product Cutina ^® AGS Cognis, glycol monostearates, such as the commercial product Cutina ^® EGMS from Cognis, PEG-3 Distearate, such as the commercial product Genapol ^® TS Clariant, PEG-2 distearate, such as for example the commercial product Kessco ^® DEGMS Akzo Nobel, propylene glycol stearates, such as for example the commercial product Tegin ^® P Goldschmidt and / or styrene / acrylate copolymers, such as for example the commercial products Joncryl ^® 67 from Johnson Polymers, Suprawal ^® WS company BASF and / or Acusol ^® OP 301 from Rohm & Haas.

Particularly suitable for use in the cleaning agents according to the invention are the clouding and / or pearlescing agents (c) known under the INCI names:

 Glycol distearate, glycol monostearate, PEG-3 distearate and / or styrene / acrylate copolymer.

In a second preferred embodiment, cosmetic cleansing agents according to the invention contain, based on their total weight,

(A) 2 to 6 wt .-%, more preferably from 3 to 6 wt .-% of at least one straight or branched alkyl ether sulfate having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular having 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units,

(b) from 1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the aforementioned formula (I), in which R is predominantly a straight-chain or branched, saturated, or polyunsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 20, more preferably having 8 to 16 and in particular having 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and

 (c) from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, of at least one haze and / or pearlescing agent (c),

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 45: 1 to 1: 1.

Within this embodiment, it is more preferable if the cleaning agents according to the invention - based on their total weight -

(a) from 4 to 6% by weight of at least one sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salt of a linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfate having a mean degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 4, (B) 3 to 5 wt .-% of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the aforementioned formula (I), in which the radical R derived from coconut oil, and

(C) 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one mono- and / or diester of ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol and / or glycerol with C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acids, at least one ester of polyethylene glycols with C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acids and / or contain at least one styrene / acrylate copolymer,

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 45: 1 to 1: 1.

Particularly preferred cosmetic cleaners of this embodiment contain - based on their total weight -

(a) 5 to 6% by weight of at least one ammonium, magnesium and / or sodium lauryl ether sulfate having a mean degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4,

(b) from 3.5 to 4.5% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine, and

 (c) from 0.2 to 2% by weight of at least one of the turbidity and / or pearlescing agents known under the INCI names Glycol Distearate, Glycol Monostearate, PEG-3 Distearate and / or Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer (c),

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 4: 1 to 1, 2: 1.

To increase the mildness and care of the cleaning agents according to the invention, it is furthermore advantageous if these - based on their total weight - preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.075 to third Wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 2 wt .-% of at least one cationic polymer (d).

Suitable cationic polymers (d) are, for example:

quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially

hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ^® cationic polymers,

 cationic alkyl polyglycosides,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

cationic guar derivatives, such as those under the trade names Cosmedia ^® guar

N- ^Hance® and ^Jaguar® distributed products,

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are available under the Be drawings Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially

Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

 quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

as well as those under the designations

 Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium 74 and Polyquaternium 89 known polymers.

Preferred cationic polymers are quaternized cellulosic polymers, cationic guar derivatives and / or acrylic acid (derivative) based cationic polymers, which are more preferably selected from the polymers Guar Hydroxypropyltnmonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10 known under the INCI names , Polyquaternium-37 and / or Polyquaternium-67.

 Particularly preferred for use in the cleaning agents according to the invention is a cationic polymer known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-7.

In a third preferred embodiment, cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight,

(A) 2 to 6 wt .-%, more preferably from 3 to 6 wt .-% of at least one straight or branched alkyl ether sulfate having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular having 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units,

(b) from 1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the aforementioned formula (I), in which R is predominantly a straight-chain or branched, saturated, or polyunsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 20, more preferably having 8 to 16 and in particular having 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and

 (c) 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight of at least one cationic polymer (d),

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 45: 1 to 1: 1.

Within this embodiment, it is more preferable if the cleaning agents according to the invention - based on their total weight -

(a) from 4 to 6% by weight of at least one sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salt of a linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfate having a mean degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 4, (B) 3 to 5 wt .-% of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the aforementioned formula (I), in which the radical R derived from coconut oil, and

(c) 0.075 to 3% by weight of at least one of the cationic polymers known under the INCI names guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-37 and / or polyquaternium-67,

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 45: 1 to 1: 1.

Particularly preferred cosmetic cleaners of this embodiment contain - based on their total weight -

(a) 5 to 6% by weight of at least one ammonium, magnesium and / or sodium lauryl ether sulfate having a mean degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4,

(b) from 3.5 to 4.5% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine, and

 (c) 0.1 to 2% by weight of at least one cationic polymer known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-7,

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 4: 1 to 1, 2: 1.

In addition to the aforementioned active ingredients, the detergents of the invention may also contain a number of other active ingredients which impart advantageous properties to them.

 The preferred optional active substances that can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention include, for example

 nonionic surfactants and / or nonionic emulsifiers, in the detergents according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt .-% and in particular from 0 , 1 to 1, 5 wt .-% can be used, as well as

 active ingredients which have a positive influence on the skin moisture and which, in the cleansing compositions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.02 to 4 wt .-% can be used.

Examples of suitable nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers include

 Amine oxides,

 Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, fatty acid,

 Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty amines and / or

 Alkylpolyglucosides.

 Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers are alkyl oligoglucosides, in particular alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 12/14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1-3, as are commercially available, for example, under the INCI name "Coco-Glucoside".

Further preferred nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers are adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, such as the known under the INCI names emulsifiers PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and / or PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.

Suitable active ingredients which have a positive influence on the skin moisture are preferably understood as meaning at least one active ingredient selected from the following group:

 (i) freeze-dried yoghurt powder

 (ii) glycerin,

 (iii) vitamins and / or

(iv) (optionally ethoxylated) mono-, di- and / or triesters of glycerol with at least one C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acid.

By "freeze-dried yoghurt powder" is meant yoghurt powder which can be obtained from natural yoghurt (after complete fermentation) by freeze-drying.

Particularly suitable yoghurt powder which can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention preferably contains the following main constituents:

 about 53.5% lactose,

 about 25% proteins,

 about 7.5% by weight of lactic acid,

 about 5% minerals and trace elements,

 about 1% vitamins and

 about 2% lipids.

Freeze-dried yoghurt powder can be present in the cleansing compositions according to the invention, preferably in an amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on their total weight. be used.

For use in the inventive cleaning compositions, in particular, a known commercially under the name "Yogurtene ^®" freeze-dried yogurt powder is suitable. Glycerin can be added separately to the cleaning agents according to the invention in an amount of up to 10% by weight (based on the total weight of the cleaning agent). It may also be part of the aqueous-alcoholic carrier.

Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:

Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. Vitamin B: belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex among others

 • Vitamin B-ι (thiamine)

• Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

• Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.

• Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

• Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

 Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

 Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol).

 Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

 Vitamin H: Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.

The cleaning agents according to the invention may preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

 Particularly preferred are nicotinic acid amide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.

Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors may be present in the cleansing compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 2 Wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 1 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% are used.

Suitable ethoxylated or nonethoxylated mono, di- and / or triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol

serve as a refatting agent for the skin and are therefore suitable as another active ingredient in the detergents according to the invention.

Particularly preferred abovementioned glycerol esters may be selected from 2 to 30-fold, preferably from 3 to 20-fold and in particular from 5 to 10-fold ethoxylated mono, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or or branched C ₈ -C ₂ 4- fatty acids, preferably C ₀ -C ₈ fatty acids with glycerol (for example, under the INCI names PEG-10 Olivenfettsäureglyceride, PEG-9 Kokosfettsäureglyceride, Glycereth-5 Cocoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate , PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glyceride known components). Very particular preference is given to PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.

The abovementioned (optionally ethoxylated) mono-, di- and / or triesters of glycerol with at least one C ₈ -C ₂ -4-fatty acid may preferably be present in the cleaning agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 1 to 2 wt .-% are used, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the detergents.

In a fourth preferred embodiment, cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight,

(A) 2 to 6 wt .-%, more preferably from 3 to 6 wt .-% of at least one straight or branched alkyl ether sulfate having an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular having 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units,

(b) from 1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the aforementioned formula (I), in which R is predominantly a straight-chain or branched, saturated, or polyunsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 20, more preferably having 8 to 16 and in particular having 8 to 12 carbon atoms,

 (c) 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight of at least one haze and / or pearlescent agent (c) and / or 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0, 05 to 4 wt .-% of at least one cationic polymer (d), and

 (d) at least one active substance which influences the skin moisture positively,

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 45: 1 to 1: 1. Within this embodiment, it is more preferable if the cleaning agents according to the invention - based on their total weight -

(a) from 4 to 6% by weight of at least one sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salt of a linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfate having a mean degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 4,

 (b) from 3 to 5% by weight of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the abovementioned formula (I) in which the radical R is derived from coconut oil,

(C) 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one mono- and / or diester of ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol and / or glycerol with C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acids, at least one ester of polyethylene glycols with C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acids and / or at least one styrene / acrylate copolymer and / or 0.075 to 3 wt .-% of at least one of the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37 and / or Polyquaternium-67 known cationic polymers, as well as

 (D) at least one skin moisture-influencing active ingredient containing, consisting of (i) freeze-dried yogurt powder

 (ii) glycerin,

 (iii) vitamins and / or

(iv) (optionally ethoxylated) mono-, di- and / or triesters of glycerol with at least one C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acid,

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 45: 1 to 1: 1.

Particularly preferred cosmetic cleaners of this embodiment contain - based on their total weight -

(a) 5 to 6% by weight of at least one ammonium, magnesium and / or sodium lauryl ether sulfate having a mean degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4,

(b) from 3.5 to 4.5% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine, and

 (c) 0.2 to 2% by weight of at least one of the turbidity and / or pearlescing agents (c) and / or pearlescing agents known under the INCI names Glycol Distearate, Glycol Monostearate, PEG-3 Distearate and / or Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer (c) and / or 0.1 to 2 wt .-% of at least one known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-7 cationic polymers, and

(d) at least one skin moisture-influencing active ingredient selected from glycerol, freeze-dried yoghurt powder, panthenol, nicotinamide and / or ethoxylated glyceryl monococoate (5-25 EO),

wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 4: 1 to 1, 2: 1.

Cosmetic cleaners preferred according to the invention preferably have a viscosity in the range from 5.000 to 15,000 mPas, preferably from 6,000 to 13,000 mPas and in particular from 7,500 to 10,500 mPas (each measured with a Haake VT550 rotational viscometer, 20 ° C, MV measuring device, MV II spindle, 8 rpm).

 Compositions of this viscosity can be conveniently and easily applied from a container to the hand or application surface without passing between the fingers and dripping. At the same time, the viscosity of the composition is low enough to ensure a satisfactory distribution on the surface of the application with the assistance of the hands.

Cosmetic detergents preferred according to the invention preferably have a pH in a skin-friendly range of from 4 to 6, preferably from 4 to 5.5 and in particular from 4.5 to 5.0.

In addition to the aforementioned active ingredients, the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention may also contain a number of other active ingredients which give them advantageous properties.

 The preferred optional active substances that can be used in the cleansing compositions according to the invention include, for example, oil, wax and / or fat components which are present in the cosmetic cleaners (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01-20 wt. -%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 15 wt.% And in particular from 0, 1 to 10 wt.% Can be used.

Suitable oil and / or fat components may preferably be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.

 As natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

 As the oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.

Useful dialkyl ethers are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di -tert.- butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.

Particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

 Suitable synthetic oils are silicone compounds.

 Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.

It is therefore desirable to use silicones in the cosmetic hair treatment compositions. Suitable silicones (other than silicones a) may be selected from:

 (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

 (ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:

 a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;

 b) (per) fluorinated groups;

 c) thiol groups;

 d) carboxylate groups;

 e) hydroxylated groups;

 f) alkoxylated groups;

 g) acyloxyalkyl groups;

 h) amphoteric groups;

 i) bisulfite groups;

 j) hydroxyacylamino groups;

 k) carboxy groups;

 I) sulfonic acid groups; and

 m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;

 (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;

(vi) or mixtures thereof. Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes which may be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion. The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures.

 Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

Fatty alcohols which may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₀ - C ₂ 2-, and most preferably C-I2 - C ₂ 2- carbon atoms. For example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucalcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and not limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, lsofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. As natural or synthetic waxes there may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau. Other fatty substances are, for example

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.

Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol , Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B ), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

 Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ^{®, ®} Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ^® HE or Cutina ^® MD.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives which can be used in the cleaning agents according to the invention are, for example:

- UV filters,

Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, the Ca, Mg or Zn - soaps, Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

 Dyes for staining the agent,

 Substances for adjusting the pH, for example α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,

 Active ingredients such as bisabolol,

 Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

 Ceramides. Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ and air,

 antioxidants

 Plant extracts,

 Pearlescing agents such as EGDS or PEG-3 distearates,

 Opacifiers such as those known under the INCI name Styrene / Acrylates copolymer compounds,

 Viscosity regulators such as electrolyte salts (NaCl).

The cleaning agents of the invention have excellent properties in the application to the skin.

 In addition to the particularly mild cleansing they nourish the skin and provide a sensory high-quality, very fine and creamy foam, which can be easily distributed on the skin.

The incorporation of pearlescers and / or opacifiers to achieve a rich texture succeeds easily and leads to stable cleaning agents that have no separation during storage.

In addition, the cosmetic detergents according to the invention, despite their low total surfactant content, can be thickened with NaCl, so that the use of additional (polymeric) thickening systems can be dispensed with.

Examples:

The following table contains five examples of cleaning agents according to the invention (shower gel compositions).

 Unless stated otherwise, the quantities in the table refer to% by weight.

In Examples 1-5 the following commercial products were used:

 1 INCI name: Aqua, Glycol Distearate, Glycerol, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropylbetaine, Formic Acid; BASF

 2 INCI name: Polyquaternium-10; Dow

Claims

claims: 1. Cosmetic cleanser containing in a cosmetic carrier  (A) 1 to 6 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (ether) sulfate of the general formula R- (OCH ₂ -CH ₂ ) x -O-SO ₃ ^" X ⁺ , in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms, x is one of the numbers 0 or 1 to and X ⁺ an alkali metal or an ammonium ion, and (b) 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant of the general formula (I)

 in the R a straight-chain or branched, saturated or one or more times  unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1, 2 and wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the cleaning agent. 2. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) 1, 45: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 1, 4: 1 to 1, 2: 1. 3. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - a total surfactant content of not more than 12 wt .-%, preferably of at most 1 1 wt .-% and in particular of at most 10 wt. % having. 4. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 2 wt .-% of at least one opacifier and / or Perlganzmittels (c) from the group of Mono- and / or diesters of ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol and / or glycerol with C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acids, Esters of polyethylene glycols with C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acids and / or  Contains styrene / acrylate copolymers. 5. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that - based on their total weight - (a) from 4 to 6% by weight of at least one sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salt of a linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfate having a mean degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 4, (B) 3 to 5 wt .-% of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the aforementioned formula (I), in which the radical R derived from coconut oil, and (C) 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one mono- and / or diester of ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol and / or glycerol with C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acids, at least one ester of polyethylene glycols with C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acids and / or at least one styrene / acrylate copolymer contains  wherein the weight ratio of the surfactants (a): (b) is 1, 45: 1 to 1: 1. 6. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.075 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 2 wt .-% of at least one cationic polymer (d). 7. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to claim 6, characterized in that it contains as cationic polymer (d) under the INCI name "Polyquaternium-7" available polymer. 8. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to claim 6, characterized in that it contains as cationic polymer (d) under the INCI name "Polyquaternium-10" available polymer. 9. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 2 parts by weight and especially 0, 1 to 1, 5 wt .-% of at least one nonionic surfactant and / or a nonionic emulsifier. 10. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.02 to 4% by weight of at least one skin moisture-positively influencing active ingredient, which is selected from  a. lyophilized yoghurt powder  b. glycerin,  c. Vitamins and / or d. (optionally ethoxylated) mono-, di- and / or triesters of glycerol with at least one C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acid. 1 1. A cosmetic cleaning agent according to claim 10, characterized in that there are at least two active substances from the group (b) glycerol,  (c) freeze-dried yoghurt powder,  (d) panthenol,  (e) nicotinic acid amide and / or  (f) ethoxylated glyceryl monococoate (5-25 EO). Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it has a viscosity in the range from 5.000 to 15,000 mPas, preferably from 6,000 to 13,000 mPas and in particular from 7,500 to 10,500 mPas (each measured with a Haake VT550 rotational viscometer; 20 ° C., measuring device MV, spindle MV II, 8 rpm). 13. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it has a pH in the range of 4 to 6, preferably from 4.5 to 5.