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WO2010026140A1 - Procédé d’élimination ou de nettoyage de maquillage au moyen d'un c7-c17 alcane linéaire volatil - Google Patents

Procédé d’élimination ou de nettoyage de maquillage au moyen d'un c7-c17 alcane linéaire volatil Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010026140A1
WO2010026140A1 PCT/EP2009/061289 EP2009061289W WO2010026140A1 WO 2010026140 A1 WO2010026140 A1 WO 2010026140A1 EP 2009061289 W EP2009061289 W EP 2009061289W WO 2010026140 A1 WO2010026140 A1 WO 2010026140A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
composition
volatile linear
mixture
alkane
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PCT/EP2009/061289
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English (en)
Inventor
Anne-Laure Bernard
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

Definitions

  • the subject of the invention is a cosmetic method for removing makeup from or for cleansing keratin materials 5 comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition comprising at least one volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms.
  • Removing makeup from the skin is very important for the0 care of the face. It must be as efficient as possible since fatty residues such as excess sebum, the remains of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products accumulate in the skin creases and on the surface of the skin, and they may block the pores of the skin and5 thus give rise to the appearance of spots. Poor makeup- removing and cleansing quality, in particular poor rinsing, are often responsible, among other causal factors, for a poor complexion. 0 Today however, consumers demand that makeup products have a longer and longer hold.
  • Waterproof mascaras long-lasting, no-transfer foundations, lipsticks that stay on all day, and, in order to remove these products, it is necessary to use increasingly effective5 formulations, that make it possible to thoroughly cleanse the skin while respecting it, that is to say without attacking it.
  • Makeup-removing compositions may be in the form of an0 optionally two-phase lotion, a milk, a cream, an oil or else a gel.
  • volatile oils such as fatty esters as described in document EP-A-651990. This is because these esters make it possible to very easily5 dissolve lipophilic dirt and makeup, in particular waterproof and no-transfer makeup products, which are reputedly difficult to remove.
  • these esters may give the user a greasy feeling and leave a film over the eyes when they are used for removing makeup from the eyelashes.
  • Makeup removers based on volatile oils such as hydrocarbon-based oils (in particular isododecane and/or isohexadecane) or on silicone-based oils such as cyclomethicone are also known.
  • the subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic method for removing makeup from or for cleansing keratin materials comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition comprising at least one volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms.
  • composition from the method according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is understood to mean a medium compatible with keratin materials, that is to say the skin, mucous membranes (including the inside of the eyelids and the lips), nails and/or keratin fibres (hair and eyelashes) .
  • the volatile linear alkane used in the method according to the invention enables good removal of makeup from keratin materials and especially from the skin or from the eye area (eyelashes, eyelids) . It enables, for example, a good removal of mascara found on the eyelashes, of eyeliner found on the eyelids and of foundation found on the skin. More particularly, it enables a good removal of water-resistant makeup products, in particular of waterproof mascaras.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range that varies from 30 to 120 0 C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 0 C.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
  • the volatile linear alkane is advantageously of plant origin.
  • the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition of the invention comprises at least one 14 C carbon isotope (carbon 14), particularly, the 14 C isotope may be present in a ratio 14 C / 12 C greater than or equal to 1.10 ⁇ 16 , preferably greater than or equal to 1.10 ⁇ 15 , more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10 ⁇ 14 , and better greater than or equal to 1.5.10 ⁇ 13 .
  • the 14 C / 12 C ratio ranges from 6.10 "13 to 1.2.10 "12 .
  • the amount of the 14 C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or in the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known from one skilled in the art, such as the Libby' s method, by Liquid
  • Such alkane may be obtained, directly or in several steps, from a plant raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
  • volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in Patent Applications from Cognis WO 2007/068371 or WO2008/155059 (mixture of distinct alkanes that differs from at least one carbon atom) . These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.
  • n- nonane Cg
  • n-decane Cio
  • n-undecane Cn
  • n-dodecane C12
  • n-tridecane C13
  • n-tetradecane Ci 4
  • n- pentadecane Ci 5
  • a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane as prepared according to example 1 or 2 of application WO2008/155059 by Cognis
  • n-dodecane Ci 2
  • n- tetradecane Ci 4
  • a single volatile linear alkane or a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkane may be used, where said alkanes differ from each other by a number of carbon of at least 1, and in particular by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.
  • a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 15 carbon atoms may be used, where said alkanes differ from each other by a number of carbon of at least 1.
  • a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 15 carbon atoms may be used, where said alkanes differ by a number of carbon atoms of at least 2.
  • a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 15 carbon atoms may be used, where said alkanes differs by a number of carbon atoms of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of C11/C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 volatile linear alkanes .
  • volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention mention may be maid of other mixtures comprising more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as for example a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, where said alkanes differ from each other by a number of carbon of at least 1, but the mixture of 2 volatile linear alkanes are preferred (binary mixture) , said 2 volatile linear alkanes representing preferably more than 95%, and better, more than 99% by weight of the total amount of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.
  • said mixture of volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention contains : less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched alkanes, and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture .
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention can be a mixture n-undecane/n- tridecane .
  • a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, of CIl volatile linear alkane (n-undecane) , - from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40 by weight, of C13 volatile linear alkane (n-tridecane) , relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • n-undecane/n-tridecane use will be made of a mixture of n-undecane/n-tridecane .
  • said mixture can be prepared according to example 1 or 2 of application WO2008/155059.
  • use will be made of n-dodecane sold under the trade name PARAFOL 12-97 by SASOL.
  • n-tetradecane sold under the trade name PARAFOL 14-97 by SASOL.
  • a volatile linear alkane and/or mixture of volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention may have a volatility such that the amount of solvent evaporated in 30 minutes at 25°C is less than 24 mg/cm 2 , and in particular is within the range that varies from 2.4 to 18 mg/cm 2 , in particular from 3 to 12 mg/cm 2 , and more particularly from 3.3 to 6 mg/cm 2 .
  • the volatility of a volatile linear alkane and/or a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in accordance with the invention may especially be evaluated by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below. Introduced into a crystallizing dish (diameter: 7 cm), placed on a balance that is located in a chamber of around 0.3 m 3 , the temperature (25°C) and hygrometry
  • the liquid is left to evaporate freely, without being stirred, ventilation being provided by a fan (PAPST- MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing the volatile linear alkane and/or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, at a distance of 20 cm relative to the base of the crystallizing dish.
  • the mass of volatile linear alkane and/or mixture of volatile linear alkanes remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular time intervals.
  • the evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile linear alkane and/or mixture of volatile linear alkane (s) evaporated per unit surface area (cm 2 ) and per unit time (minutes) .
  • composition of the invention may comprise from 2% to 90% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), better still from 5 to 70% by weight, in particular from 15 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .
  • composition according to the invention may comprise, besides the volatile linear alkane, one or more oils or organic solvents referred to as "additional" oils or organic solvents.
  • the additional oils or solvents may be volatile or nonvolatile and may be chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils or fluorinated oils.
  • the additional volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a nonzero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure that ranges from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg) , and preferably that ranges from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg, and preferably that ranges from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .
  • Mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon-based volatile oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes such as Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, Cs-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof; preferably, use is made of isododecane or isohexadecane .
  • Cs-Ci6 alkanes also known as isoparaffins
  • Isopar or Permethyl Cs-Ci6 branched esters
  • isohexyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof
  • use is made of isododecane or isohexadecane .
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for instance liquid paraffin or its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, squalane of synthetic or plant origin;
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin based on triglycerides made up of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths, it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, in particular the triglycerides of a fatty acid containing in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic acid triglycerides, octanoic acid triglycerides and capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, or else hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, muscat rose oil, hazelnut oil, coriander oil, avocado oil, t
  • R1COOR2 synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C12 to Ci 5 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropy
  • - C8-C26 higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid
  • - C8-C26 higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol
  • silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at ambient temperature, and that are optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl- siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl- diphenyltrisiloxanes, liquid 2-phenylethyltrimethyl- siloxysilicates, optionally substituted with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, for instance alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids or fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, such as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl methicone copolyo
  • the additional oil may be chosen from oils referred to as "makeup-removing oils” such as: - the branched hydrocarbons described above and in particular the branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as, in particular, isoparaffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated poly- isobutene such as Parleam ® oil; - fatty acid esters preferably chosen from the esters obtained from an alcohol having a linear or branched chain, having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and from a fatty acid having a linear or branched chain, having from 3 to 18 and preferably from 12 to 17 carbon atoms, such as for example ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, pentaerythritol caprate/caprylate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodec
  • a short-chain ether such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • the amount of additional oil (s) may vary depending on whether the composition is in emulsion, two-phase or anhydrous form. It may range, for example, from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 60% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and better still less than 2% by weight of additional oil. It may be free from additional oil.
  • the oily phase comprising all the volatile or nonvolatile oils including the additional oils of the composition according to the invention, may represent from 10% to 100% by weight, for example from 15% to 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, as a function of the type of galenic composition .
  • composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, of a two-phase composition or of an anhydrous composition.
  • anhydrous composition is understood to mean a composition that contains less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or in particular a water-free composition, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water introduced by the mixed ingredients.
  • the composition according to the invention when it is an emulsion or a two-phase composition, it comprises an aqueous phase and an oily phase.
  • the emulsions and two- phase compositions are differentiated by the fact that the two-phase compositions are composed of two phases which, at rest, are separate instead of being emulsified in one another.
  • the use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion, which must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases, but such that at rest, said phases rapidly separate and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known by the term "phase separation".
  • These two-phase compositions are described, for example, in documents EP-A-370 856 and EP-A-603 080.
  • the emulsions comprise two phases, an aqueous phase and an oily phase, one of the phases being dispersed in the other in a stable manner.
  • the composition according to the invention contains an aqueous phase, this contains water and may contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive.
  • the water used may be pure demineralized water or else mineral water and/or thermal spring water and/or sea water; in other words, the water of the composition may be composed in part or in total of a water selected from mineral waters, thermal spring waters, sea waters and mixtures thereof.
  • a mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not always the case with a thermal spring water.
  • Each of these waters contains, among other constituents, solubilized minerals and/or trace elements. The use of these waters for specific treatment purposes is known, depending on the specific minerals and trace elements which they contain, such treatments including the moisturizing and desensitizing of the skin.
  • mineral waters or “thermal spring waters” will be used to denote not only natural mineral or thermal spring waters but also natural mineral or thermal spring waters which have been enriched with additional mineral constituents and/or trace elements, and also aqueous mineral solutions and/or aqueous solutions containing trace elements that have been prepared from purified water (demineralized or distilled water) .
  • a natural thermal spring or mineral water used according to the invention may be selected, for example, from Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien- les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris- les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le- Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water.
  • sea waters such as Dead Sea water or seabed waters .
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at 25°C) such as for example primary alcohols (C1-C3 monohydric alcohol) such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvents that are miscible with water (at 25°C) such as for example primary alcohols (C1-C3 monohydric alcohol) such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of polyol (s) in the composition of the invention is preferably such that it does not give the final composition a tacky nature. This amount generally ranges from 0.05
  • composition when in the form of an emulsion, it may be a water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, or a multiple (W/O/W or 0/W/O) emulsion.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oily phase may be, for example, from 10/90 to 95/5, and preferably from 30/70 to 90/10.
  • the aqueous phase may represent, for example, from 10 to 95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, better still from 60 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the oily phase may represent, for example, from 5 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oily phase preferably ranges from 25/75 to 90/10 and preferably 30/70 to 70/30.
  • the aqueous phase therefore generally represents from 25 to 90% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight and better still from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants.
  • the amount of surfactant may vary to a large extent but is limited, in practice, for reasons of tolerance. It also depends on the type of compositions (emulsion or other) .
  • the amount of surfactant (s) (as active material) other anionic surfactants preferably ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight (as active material) of anionic surfactants, preferably less than 4% by weight, more preferably, less than 3% by weight, better, less than 2% by weight, much better, less 1% by weight, and advantageously less thane 0,5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention may be free of anionic surfactant.
  • the amount of surfactants other than anionic surfactants may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • surfactant any surfactant commonly used in makeup-removing compositions.
  • the surfactant may be chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, as surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of:
  • oxyethylene/oxypropylene block polymers such as the Poloxamers and in particular Poloxamer 184 (CTFA name) ;
  • sorbitan fatty acid esters and their oxyethylenated derivatives such as the sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by ICI under the name Span 60, the sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold by ICI under the name Span 40, the oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates, palmitates and oleates (CTFA name: polysorbate) sold by ICI under the Tween names, in particular polysorbate 60 (Tween 60), polysorbate 65 (Tween 65), polysorbate 80 (Tween 80);
  • - alkylpolyglycosides and in particular alkylpoly- glucosides having an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms (alkyl-C6-C3o- polyglucosides) and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as, for example, decyl glucoside (alkyl-Cg/Cn- polyglucoside (1.4)), such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP or Plantacare 2000 UP by Cognis and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by Seppic; caprylyl/ capryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by Seppic; lauryl glucoside,
  • alkyl amphoacetates such as the N-disodium N-cocoyl-N- carboxymethoxyethyl-N- (carboxymethyl) ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate) sold in saline aqueous solution under the name Miranol C2M Cone.
  • CTFA name disodium cocoamphodiacetate
  • CTFA name sodium cocoamphoacetate
  • cocamides such as the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: cocamide DEA) .
  • composition may also comprise a mixture of two or more of these surfactants.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic additives or adjuvants that will be in one or the other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as for example active agents, fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, dyes, demulcents, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.
  • active agents for example active agents, fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, dyes, demulcents, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.
  • fragrances for example active agents, fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, dyes, demulcents, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , electroly
  • bactericides it is possible, for example, to use a mono (C3-C9) alkyl or (C3-C9) alkenyl glyceryl ether, the manufacture of which is described in the literature, in particular in E. Baer, H.O.L. Fischer - J. Biol. Chem. 140-397-1941.
  • One mono (C 3 -Cg) alkyl glyceryl ether that is more particularly preferred according to the present invention is 3- [ (2- ethylhexyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol, sold by Schulke & Mayr GmbH under the trade name SENSIVA SC 50 (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) .
  • active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as lime water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils; vitamins such as, for example, retinol (vitamin A) , ascorbic acid (vitamin C) , tocopherol (vitamin E) , niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3) , panthenol (vitamin B5) and derivatives thereof such as, for example, the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate) , magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl-ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside) ; coenzymes such as the coenzyme QlO or ubiquinone and
  • the makeup-removing composition is a two-phase composition
  • it may also contain a phase-separation agent, which makes it possible to improve the separation rate of the phases after stirring.
  • the makeup-removing tests are carried out on test specimens of false eyelashes (black straight Caucasian hairs having a fringe length of 19 mm, mounted between two 30 mm by 30 mm plates) .
  • One or two hair test specimens are made up with the CiIs Architect Waterproof mascara from l'Oreal Paris by carrying out two times ten brush strokes spaced apart by 2 min of drying with takeup of product between each series of ten strokes.
  • test specimens are left to dry at room temperature for a drying time of one hour.
  • the first test specimen was then pinched between the fingers for 5 seconds in cotton wool soaked with 1 g of composition according to the invention and the second test specimen, where appropriate, was pinched between the fingers for 5 seconds in cotton wool soaked with I g of the comparative composition, then the test specimen + cotton wool assembly is inserted into a press and subjected to a pressure equivalent to that of the fingers holding the cotton wool and the test specimen is extracted from the cotton wool with a rapid movement .
  • the experiment is repeated for each test specimen with clean cotton wool impregnated again with 1 g of the composition according to the invention or of the comparative composition, and this continues until complete removal of makeup from the made up fringe of hairs .
  • the evaluation of the makeup-removing efficacy is constituted of counting the number of cotton wool pads that are required in order to completely remove the makeup from the made up fringe of hairs.
  • the undecane/tridecane mixture used in the composition according to the invention makes it possible to have an improved makeup-removing ability (more than 50% improved compared to branched alkanes such as isododecane and isohexadecane and more than 80% improved compared to isoparaffin) .
  • Examples 2 and 3 Makeup-removing milks
  • a makeup-removing milk according to the invention comprising a mixture of volatile linear alkanes and a comparative milk comprising isohexadecane are produced. It is verified that the physicochemical characteristics (viscosity, drop size) of these emulsions which may optionally influence the makeup-removing efficacy are identical .
  • compositions are prepared as follows: the polymer is swollen in the aqueous phase using a Rayneri mixer for 30 min at 450 rpm.
  • the fatty phase is incorporated using a Moritz mixer over 15 min at room temperature with stirring at between 1500 and 1800 rpm (total duration 30 min) .
  • the makeup-removing milk according to the invention has a substantially higher makeup-removing efficacy than that of the makeup-removing milk comprising isohexadecane .
  • the two-phase makeup-remover according to the invention removes makeup more effectively than the composition from example 5, which comprises a mixture of isohexadecane and cyclohexadimethylsiloxane .
  • the various constituents are mixed with moderate stirring at 80 0 C.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L’invention concerne un procédé cosmétique d’élimination de maquillage de matières kératiniques ou pour nettoyer des matières kératiniques. Le procédé selon l’invention comprend l’application sur les matières kératiniques d’une composition comprenant au moins un alcane linéaire volatil qui contient 7 à 17 atomes de carbone. La composition selon l’invention est efficace pour l’élimination de maquillage et a un bon confort oculaire. Elle peut notamment être utilisée pour éliminer du maquillage de la peau et/ou de la zone des yeux.
PCT/EP2009/061289 2008-09-02 2009-09-01 Procédé d’élimination ou de nettoyage de maquillage au moyen d'un c7-c17 alcane linéaire volatil Ceased WO2010026140A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

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FR0855863 2008-09-02
FR0855863A FR2935264B1 (fr) 2008-09-02 2008-09-02 Composition demaquillante comprenant une phase grasse volatile.
US9503708P 2008-09-08 2008-09-08
US61/095,037 2008-09-08

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CN101988570A (zh) * 2009-07-31 2011-03-23 中国商用飞机有限责任公司 用于飞机缝翼作动器的齿轮齿条的设计方法
FR2952528A1 (fr) * 2009-11-17 2011-05-20 Oreal Melange de solvants hydrocarbones.
FR2954139A1 (fr) * 2009-12-23 2011-06-24 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins un alcane lineaire volatil et au moins un polymere cationique non-proteique
FR2954126A1 (fr) * 2009-12-23 2011-06-24 Oreal Utilisation pour le traitement cosmetique des fibres keratiniques d'alcane(s) lineaire(s) volatil(s) et d'ester(s) gras liquide(s) en milieu anhydre, et composition cosmetique anhydre a base d'alcane(s) lineaire(s) volatil(s), d'ester gras liquide(s) et d'huile(s) particuliere(s)
FR2957253A1 (fr) * 2010-03-10 2011-09-16 Oreal Preparation de pre-melanges de polymeres filmogenes dans des alcanes lineaires volatils et utilisation en cosmetique
CN106852117A (zh) * 2014-10-17 2017-06-13 莱雅公司 用于在皮肤上卸妆的固体无水组合物
CN113440433A (zh) * 2021-06-28 2021-09-28 上海丽知品牌管理有限公司 冰沙状卸妆组合物及其制备方法
US20220218588A1 (en) * 2021-01-08 2022-07-14 L'oréal Method and system for removing makeup
WO2025006980A3 (fr) * 2023-06-30 2025-04-17 Mary Kay Inc. Démaquillant pour les yeux à double phase de séparation élevée

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FR3067248B1 (fr) * 2017-06-09 2019-10-25 L'oreal Composition biphase comprenant un sel de chlorhexidine
FR3067932A1 (fr) * 2017-06-23 2018-12-28 L'oreal Composition demaquillante pour les yeux
FR3106752B1 (fr) * 2020-01-30 2022-08-05 Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher Composition a deux phases demaquillante et/ou nettoyante
FR3122091B1 (fr) 2021-04-22 2023-12-29 Naos Inst Of Life Science Composition cosmetique biphasique ecobiologique a separation de phases retardee

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WO2007068371A1 (fr) * 2005-12-14 2007-06-21 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Procede pour produire des hydrocarbures
US20070207113A1 (en) * 2006-02-10 2007-09-06 Melissa Joerger Personal care and cosmetic compositions comprising renewably-based, biodegradable 1,3-propanediol
EP2014274A1 (fr) * 2007-06-19 2009-01-14 Cognis IP Management GmbH Mélanges d'hydrocarbures et leur utilisation

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US20070129270A1 (en) * 2005-12-01 2007-06-07 Conopco, Inc. D/B/A Unilever Method of reducing surfactant damage using compositions comprising benefit agents of defined high polarity
WO2007068371A1 (fr) * 2005-12-14 2007-06-21 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Procede pour produire des hydrocarbures
US20070207113A1 (en) * 2006-02-10 2007-09-06 Melissa Joerger Personal care and cosmetic compositions comprising renewably-based, biodegradable 1,3-propanediol
EP2014274A1 (fr) * 2007-06-19 2009-01-14 Cognis IP Management GmbH Mélanges d'hydrocarbures et leur utilisation

Cited By (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101988570A (zh) * 2009-07-31 2011-03-23 中国商用飞机有限责任公司 用于飞机缝翼作动器的齿轮齿条的设计方法
FR2952528A1 (fr) * 2009-11-17 2011-05-20 Oreal Melange de solvants hydrocarbones.
WO2011061672A1 (fr) * 2009-11-17 2011-05-26 L'oreal Mélange de solvants à base d'hydrocarbures
US9707415B2 (en) 2009-12-23 2017-07-18 L'oreal Use of volatile linear alkane(s) and liquid fatty ester(s) in an anhydrous medium for the treatment of keratin fibres, and an anhydrous composition based on volatile linear alkane(s), liquid fatty ester(s) and particular oil(s)
FR2954126A1 (fr) * 2009-12-23 2011-06-24 Oreal Utilisation pour le traitement cosmetique des fibres keratiniques d'alcane(s) lineaire(s) volatil(s) et d'ester(s) gras liquide(s) en milieu anhydre, et composition cosmetique anhydre a base d'alcane(s) lineaire(s) volatil(s), d'ester gras liquide(s) et d'huile(s) particuliere(s)
EP2356975A1 (fr) * 2009-12-23 2011-08-17 L'Oréal Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins deux alcanes linéaires volatiles, et au moins un polymère cationique non-protéique
US9095528B2 (en) 2009-12-23 2015-08-04 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising at least two volatile linear alkanes and at least one nonprotein cationic polymer
FR2954139A1 (fr) * 2009-12-23 2011-06-24 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins un alcane lineaire volatil et au moins un polymere cationique non-proteique
FR2957253A1 (fr) * 2010-03-10 2011-09-16 Oreal Preparation de pre-melanges de polymeres filmogenes dans des alcanes lineaires volatils et utilisation en cosmetique
CN106852117A (zh) * 2014-10-17 2017-06-13 莱雅公司 用于在皮肤上卸妆的固体无水组合物
US20220218588A1 (en) * 2021-01-08 2022-07-14 L'oréal Method and system for removing makeup
CN113440433A (zh) * 2021-06-28 2021-09-28 上海丽知品牌管理有限公司 冰沙状卸妆组合物及其制备方法
WO2025006980A3 (fr) * 2023-06-30 2025-04-17 Mary Kay Inc. Démaquillant pour les yeux à double phase de séparation élevée

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FR2935264A1 (fr) 2010-03-05

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