WO2010026140A1

WO2010026140A1 - Makeup-removing or cleansing method using volatile linear c7-c17 alkane

Info

Publication number: WO2010026140A1
Application number: PCT/EP2009/061289
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anne-Laure Bernard
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2008-09-02
Filing date: 2009-09-01
Publication date: 2010-03-11
Anticipated expiration: 2011-03-02
Also published as: FR2935264B1; FR2935264A1

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic method for removing makeup from or for cleansing keratin materials comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition comprising at least one volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms. The composition according to the invention is effective for the removal of makeup and has good ocular comfort. It may especially be used for removing makeup from the skin and/or from the eye area.

Description

MAKEUP-REMOVING OR CLEANSING METHOD USING VOLATILE LINEAR C7-C17 ALKANE

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic method for removing makeup from or for cleansing keratin materials 5 comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition comprising at least one volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms.

Removing makeup from the skin is very important for the0 care of the face. It must be as efficient as possible since fatty residues such as excess sebum, the remains of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products accumulate in the skin creases and on the surface of the skin, and they may block the pores of the skin and5 thus give rise to the appearance of spots. Poor makeup- removing and cleansing quality, in particular poor rinsing, are often responsible, among other causal factors, for a poor complexion. 0 Today however, consumers demand that makeup products have a longer and longer hold. Waterproof mascaras, long-lasting, no-transfer foundations, lipsticks that stay on all day, and, in order to remove these products, it is necessary to use increasingly effective5 formulations, that make it possible to thoroughly cleanse the skin while respecting it, that is to say without attacking it.

Makeup-removing compositions may be in the form of an0 optionally two-phase lotion, a milk, a cream, an oil or else a gel. To facilitate the removal of makeup, it is known for example to use volatile oils such as fatty esters as described in document EP-A-651990. This is because these esters make it possible to very easily5 dissolve lipophilic dirt and makeup, in particular waterproof and no-transfer makeup products, which are reputedly difficult to remove. However, these esters may give the user a greasy feeling and leave a film over the eyes when they are used for removing makeup from the eyelashes.

Makeup removers based on volatile oils such as hydrocarbon-based oils (in particular isododecane and/or isohexadecane) or on silicone-based oils such as cyclomethicone are also known.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the use of particular volatile linear alkanes makes it possible to improve the makeup-removing efficiency of compositions comprising them.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic method for removing makeup from or for cleansing keratin materials comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition comprising at least one volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms.

The composition from the method according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The expression "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood to mean a medium compatible with keratin materials, that is to say the skin, mucous membranes (including the inside of the eyelids and the lips), nails and/or keratin fibres (hair and eyelashes) .

The volatile linear alkane used in the method according to the invention enables good removal of makeup from keratin materials and especially from the skin or from the eye area (eyelashes, eyelids) . It enables, for example, a good removal of mascara found on the eyelashes, of eyeliner found on the eyelids and of foundation found on the skin. More particularly, it enables a good removal of water-resistant makeup products, in particular of waterproof mascaras.

Volatile linear alkane According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range that varies from 30 to 120⁰C, and more particularly from 40 to 100⁰C.

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . In particular, an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is advantageously of plant origin.

Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition of the invention comprises at least one ¹⁴C carbon isotope (carbon 14), particularly, the ¹⁴C isotope may be present in a ratio ¹⁴C / ¹²C greater than or equal to 1.10^~16, preferably greater than or equal to 1.10^~15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10^~14, and better greater than or equal to 1.5.10^~13. Preferably, the ¹⁴C / ¹²C ratio ranges from 6.10^"13 to 1.2.10^"12.

The amount of the ¹⁴C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or in the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known from one skilled in the art, such as the Libby' s method, by Liquid

Scintillation Spectrometry or by Accelerator Mass

Spectrometry.

Such alkane may be obtained, directly or in several steps, from a plant raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.

As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in Patent Applications from Cognis WO 2007/068371 or WO2008/155059 (mixture of distinct alkanes that differs from at least one carbon atom) . These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

By way of example of a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n- nonane (Cg) , n-decane (Cio) , n-undecane (Cn) , n-dodecane (C12) , n-tridecane (C13) , n-tetradecane (Ci₄) , n- pentadecane (Ci₅) and mixtures thereof, and in particular, a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane as prepared according to example 1 or 2 of application WO2008/155059 by Cognis, or n-dodecane (Ci₂) or n- tetradecane (Ci₄) sold by SASOL respectively under the trade names PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, a single volatile linear alkane or a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkane may be used, where said alkanes differ from each other by a number of carbon of at least 1, and in particular by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

According to a first embodiment, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 15 carbon atoms may be used, where said alkanes differ from each other by a number of carbon of at least 1. As an example mention may be maid of the volatile linear alkanes mixtures ClO/Cll, C11/C12, C12/C13, or C14/C15.

According to another embodiment, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 15 carbon atoms may be used, where said alkanes differ by a number of carbon atoms of at least 2. As an example mention may be maid of the volatile linear alkanes mixtures C10/C12 or C12/C14, for an even number of carbon atoms, and the volatile linear alkanes mixtures C11/C13, or C13/C15 for an odd number of carbon atoms .

According to a preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 15 carbon atoms may be used, where said alkanes differs by a number of carbon atoms of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of C11/C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 volatile linear alkanes .

As examples of volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be maid of other mixtures comprising more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as for example a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, where said alkanes differ from each other by a number of carbon of at least 1, but the mixture of 2 volatile linear alkanes are preferred (binary mixture) , said 2 volatile linear alkanes representing preferably more than 95%, and better, more than 99% by weight of the total amount of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.

According to one other particular embodiment, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the majority of volatile linear alkane(s) in the mixture are the alkanes having the smallest number of carbon atoms .

According to one other particular embodiment, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the majority of volatile linear alkane in the mixture are the alkanes having the greatest number of carbon atoms .

As examples of volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be maid of the following mixtures : from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of Cn volatile linear alkane, with n ranging from 9 to 15, from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of Cn+x volatile linear alkane with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x=l or x=2, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Particularly, said mixture of volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention contains : less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched alkanes, and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture .

More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention can be a mixture n-undecane/n- tridecane .

Particularly, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, of CIl volatile linear alkane (n-undecane) , - from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40 by weight, of C13 volatile linear alkane (n-tridecane) , relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particularly preferred form, use will be made of a mixture of n-undecane/n-tridecane . In particular, said mixture can be prepared according to example 1 or 2 of application WO2008/155059. According to another embodiment, use will be made of n-dodecane sold under the trade name PARAFOL 12-97 by SASOL.

According to another specific embodiment, use will be made of n-tetradecane sold under the trade name PARAFOL 14-97 by SASOL.

According to a particular embodiment, use will be made of a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane.

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane and/or mixture of volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention may have a volatility such that the amount of solvent evaporated in 30 minutes at 25°C is less than 24 mg/cm², and in particular is within the range that varies from 2.4 to 18 mg/cm², in particular from 3 to 12 mg/cm², and more particularly from 3.3 to 6 mg/cm². The volatility of a volatile linear alkane and/or a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in accordance with the invention may especially be evaluated by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below. Introduced into a crystallizing dish (diameter: 7 cm), placed on a balance that is located in a chamber of around 0.3 m³, the temperature (25°C) and hygrometry

(50% relative humidity) of which are regulated, are

15 g of volatile linear alkane and/or mixture of volatile solvent of volatile linear alkanes.

The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without being stirred, ventilation being provided by a fan (PAPST- MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing the volatile linear alkane and/or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, at a distance of 20 cm relative to the base of the crystallizing dish. The mass of volatile linear alkane and/or mixture of volatile linear alkanes remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular time intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile linear alkane and/or mixture of volatile linear alkane (s) evaporated per unit surface area (cm²) and per unit time (minutes) .

The composition of the invention may comprise from 2% to 90% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), better still from 5 to 70% by weight, in particular from 15 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .

The composition according to the invention may comprise, besides the volatile linear alkane, one or more oils or organic solvents referred to as "additional" oils or organic solvents.

Additional oil or solvent

The additional oils or solvents may be volatile or nonvolatile and may be chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils or fluorinated oils.

The additional volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a nonzero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure that ranges from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^~3 to 300 mmHg) , and preferably that ranges from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg, and preferably that ranges from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .

Mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon-based volatile oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes such as Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, Cs-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof; preferably, use is made of isododecane or isohexadecane .

As non-volatile oils, mention may be made of:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for instance liquid paraffin or its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, squalane of synthetic or plant origin;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin based on triglycerides made up of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths, it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, in particular the triglycerides of a fatty acid containing in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic acid triglycerides, octanoic acid triglycerides and capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, or else hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, muscat rose oil, hazelnut oil, coriander oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cereal (maize, wheat, barley, rye) germ oil, shea butter oil; esters of fatty acids, in particular having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular of octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid or of stearic acid, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;

- synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C12 to Ci₅ alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, isodecyl neopentanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate;

- C8-C26 higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; - C8-C26 higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;

- synthetic ethers containing at least 7 carbon atoms;

- silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at ambient temperature, and that are optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl- siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl- diphenyltrisiloxanes, liquid 2-phenylethyltrimethyl- siloxysilicates, optionally substituted with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, for instance alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids or fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, such as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl methicone copolyols; liquid fluorosilicones;

- and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the additional oil may be chosen from oils referred to as "makeup-removing oils" such as: - the branched hydrocarbons described above and in particular the branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as, in particular, isoparaffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated poly- isobutene such as Parleam^® oil; - fatty acid esters preferably chosen from the esters obtained from an alcohol having a linear or branched chain, having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and from a fatty acid having a linear or branched chain, having from 3 to 18 and preferably from 12 to 17 carbon atoms, such as for example ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, pentaerythritol caprate/caprylate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate or hexyl laurate;

- short-chain esters such as dicaprylyl carbonate; and

- a short-chain ether such as dicaprylyl ether.

The amount of additional oil (s) may vary depending on whether the composition is in emulsion, two-phase or anhydrous form. It may range, for example, from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 60% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and better still less than 2% by weight of additional oil. It may be free from additional oil.

The oily phase, comprising all the volatile or nonvolatile oils including the additional oils of the composition according to the invention, may represent from 10% to 100% by weight, for example from 15% to 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, as a function of the type of galenic composition .

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, of a two-phase composition or of an anhydrous composition.

The expression "anhydrous composition" is understood to mean a composition that contains less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or in particular a water-free composition, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water introduced by the mixed ingredients.

When the composition according to the invention is an emulsion or a two-phase composition, it comprises an aqueous phase and an oily phase. The emulsions and two- phase compositions are differentiated by the fact that the two-phase compositions are composed of two phases which, at rest, are separate instead of being emulsified in one another. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion, which must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases, but such that at rest, said phases rapidly separate and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known by the term "phase separation". These two-phase compositions are described, for example, in documents EP-A-370 856 and EP-A-603 080. On the other hand, the emulsions comprise two phases, an aqueous phase and an oily phase, one of the phases being dispersed in the other in a stable manner.

Aqueous phase

When the composition according to the invention contains an aqueous phase, this contains water and may contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. The water used may be pure demineralized water or else mineral water and/or thermal spring water and/or sea water; in other words, the water of the composition may be composed in part or in total of a water selected from mineral waters, thermal spring waters, sea waters and mixtures thereof. Generally speaking, a mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not always the case with a thermal spring water. Each of these waters contains, among other constituents, solubilized minerals and/or trace elements. The use of these waters for specific treatment purposes is known, depending on the specific minerals and trace elements which they contain, such treatments including the moisturizing and desensitizing of the skin. The terms "mineral waters" or "thermal spring waters" will be used to denote not only natural mineral or thermal spring waters but also natural mineral or thermal spring waters which have been enriched with additional mineral constituents and/or trace elements, and also aqueous mineral solutions and/or aqueous solutions containing trace elements that have been prepared from purified water (demineralized or distilled water) .

A natural thermal spring or mineral water used according to the invention may be selected, for example, from Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien- les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris- les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le- Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water.

It is also possible to use sea waters such as Dead Sea water or seabed waters .

The aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at 25°C) such as for example primary alcohols (C1-C3 monohydric alcohol) such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof. The amount of polyol (s) in the composition of the invention is preferably such that it does not give the final composition a tacky nature. This amount generally ranges from 0.05 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition is in the form of an emulsion, it may be a water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, or a multiple (W/O/W or 0/W/O) emulsion. The weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oily phase may be, for example, from 10/90 to 95/5, and preferably from 30/70 to 90/10. Thus, the aqueous phase may represent, for example, from 10 to 95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, better still from 60 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the oily phase may represent, for example, from 5 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition is in the form of a two-phase composition, the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oily phase preferably ranges from 25/75 to 90/10 and preferably 30/70 to 70/30. The aqueous phase therefore generally represents from 25 to 90% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight and better still from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants. The amount of surfactant may vary to a large extent but is limited, in practice, for reasons of tolerance. It also depends on the type of compositions (emulsion or other) .

The amount of surfactant (s) (as active material) other anionic surfactants preferably ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a specific embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight (as active material) of anionic surfactants, preferably less than 4% by weight, more preferably, less than 3% by weight, better, less than 2% by weight, much better, less 1% by weight, and advantageously less thane 0,5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may be free of anionic surfactant. In the above mentioned case, the amount of surfactants other than anionic surfactants may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is possible to use, as surfactant, any surfactant commonly used in makeup-removing compositions. The surfactant may be chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, as surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of:

(1) among nonionic surfactants:

- oxyethylene/oxypropylene block polymers, such as the Poloxamers and in particular Poloxamer 184 (CTFA name) ;

- sorbitan fatty acid esters and their oxyethylenated derivatives, such as the sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by ICI under the name Span 60, the sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold by ICI under the name Span 40, the oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates, palmitates and oleates (CTFA name: polysorbate) sold by ICI under the Tween names, in particular polysorbate 60 (Tween 60), polysorbate 65 (Tween 65), polysorbate 80 (Tween 80);

- oxyethylenated ethers of dihydrocholesterol, such as Dihydrocholeth-15, Dihydrocholeth-20 and Dihydro- choleth-30; - alkylpolyglycosides and in particular alkylpoly- glucosides (APGs) having an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms (alkyl-C6-C3o- polyglucosides) and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as, for example, decyl glucoside (alkyl-Cg/Cn- polyglucoside (1.4)), such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP or Plantacare 2000 UP by Cognis and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by Seppic; caprylyl/ capryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by Seppic; lauryl glucoside, such as the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by Cognis; and coco glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by Cognis;

(2) among anionic surfactants:

- alkyl sulphates and their salts, alkyl ether sulphates and their salts, in particular their sodium salts, such as the sodium laureth sulphate/magnesium laureth sulphate/sodium laureth-8 sulphate/magnesium laureth-8 sulphate mixture sold under the name of Texapon ASV by Cognis; the sodium lauryl ether sulphate (Ci₂-I₄ 70/30) (2.2 EO) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225 or Texapon N702 PATE by Cognis; the ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by Cognis; the ammonium alkyl (C12-C14) ether (9 EO) sulphate sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20 by Rhodia Chimie;

(3) among amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, alkyl amphoacetates, such as the N-disodium N-cocoyl-N- carboxymethoxyethyl-N- (carboxymethyl) ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate) sold in saline aqueous solution under the name Miranol C2M Cone. NP by

Rhodia Chimie; N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-

(carboxymethyl) ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocoamphoacetate) ; cocamides, such as the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: cocamide DEA) .

The composition may also comprise a mixture of two or more of these surfactants.

The composition according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic additives or adjuvants that will be in one or the other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as for example active agents, fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, dyes, demulcents, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof. Of course, a person skilled in the art will be sure to choose this or these optional additives and/or the amount thereof, so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition. As preservatives, it is possible to use any preservative customarily used in the fields in question, such as for example parabens and chlorhexidine digluconate.

As bactericides, it is possible, for example, to use a mono (C3-C9) alkyl or (C3-C9) alkenyl glyceryl ether, the manufacture of which is described in the literature, in particular in E. Baer, H.O.L. Fischer - J. Biol. Chem. 140-397-1941. Among these mono (C₃-C₉) alkyl or (C₃- Cg) alkenyl glyceryl ethers, use is preferably made of 3- [ (2-ethylhexyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol, 3- [ (heptyl) oxy] - 1, 2-propanediol, 3- [ (octyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol and 3- [ (allyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol . One mono (C₃-Cg) alkyl glyceryl ether that is more particularly preferred according to the present invention is 3- [ (2- ethylhexyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol, sold by Schulke & Mayr GmbH under the trade name SENSIVA SC 50 (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) .

As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as lime water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils; vitamins such as, for example, retinol (vitamin A) , ascorbic acid (vitamin C) , tocopherol (vitamin E) , niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3) , panthenol (vitamin B5) and derivatives thereof such as, for example, the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate) , magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl-ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside) ; coenzymes such as the coenzyme QlO or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and mixtures thereof.

When the makeup-removing composition is a two-phase composition, it may also contain a phase-separation agent, which makes it possible to improve the separation rate of the phases after stirring.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and have no limiting nature. All the amounts are given as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES

In the examples below the makeup-removing efficacy of each composition is evaluated according to the following protocol.

Makeup-removing efficacy test

The makeup-removing tests are carried out on test specimens of false eyelashes (black straight Caucasian hairs having a fringe length of 19 mm, mounted between two 30 mm by 30 mm plates) .

One or two hair test specimens are made up with the CiIs Architect Waterproof mascara from l'Oreal Paris by carrying out two times ten brush strokes spaced apart by 2 min of drying with takeup of product between each series of ten strokes.

The test specimens are left to dry at room temperature for a drying time of one hour. The first test specimen was then pinched between the fingers for 5 seconds in cotton wool soaked with 1 g of composition according to the invention and the second test specimen, where appropriate, was pinched between the fingers for 5 seconds in cotton wool soaked with I g of the comparative composition, then the test specimen + cotton wool assembly is inserted into a press and subjected to a pressure equivalent to that of the fingers holding the cotton wool and the test specimen is extracted from the cotton wool with a rapid movement . The experiment is repeated for each test specimen with clean cotton wool impregnated again with 1 g of the composition according to the invention or of the comparative composition, and this continues until complete removal of makeup from the made up fringe of hairs .

The evaluation of the makeup-removing efficacy is constituted of counting the number of cotton wool pads that are required in order to completely remove the makeup from the made up fringe of hairs.

Example 1 :

The makeup-removing ability of an undecane/tridecane mixture according to the invention was tested compared to volatile oils conventionally used in makeup-removing compositions of the prior art.

It is observed that the undecane/tridecane mixture used in the composition according to the invention makes it possible to have an improved makeup-removing ability (more than 50% improved compared to branched alkanes such as isododecane and isohexadecane and more than 80% improved compared to isoparaffin) .

Examples 2 and 3 - Makeup-removing milks A makeup-removing milk according to the invention comprising a mixture of volatile linear alkanes and a comparative milk comprising isohexadecane are produced. It is verified that the physicochemical characteristics (viscosity, drop size) of these emulsions which may optionally influence the makeup-removing efficacy are identical .

The compositions are prepared as follows: the polymer is swollen in the aqueous phase using a Rayneri mixer for 30 min at 450 rpm.

The fatty phase is incorporated using a Moritz mixer over 15 min at room temperature with stirring at between 1500 and 1800 rpm (total duration 30 min) .

The makeup-removing milk according to the invention has a substantially higher makeup-removing efficacy than that of the makeup-removing milk comprising isohexadecane .

Examples 4 and 5: Two-phase makeup-removers

Procedure : The constituents of phase A on the one hand and of phase B on the other hand are mixed. Then phase B is added to phase A. A product having two separate phases, one above the other, is obtained which is stirred before use.

The makeup-removing efficacy of each composition is tested according to the protocol indicated above.

The two-phase makeup-remover according to the invention (example 4) removes makeup more effectively than the composition from example 5, which comprises a mixture of isohexadecane and cyclohexadimethylsiloxane .

Examples 6 and 7 : Makeup-removing oils

The following makeup-removing oils are made:

The various constituents are mixed with moderate stirring at 80⁰C.

It is observed that the makeup-removing oil (example 6) based on the mixture of undecane/tridecane oils is a better makeup remover than that based on liquid petroleum jelly (example 7) .

Claims

1. A cosmetic method for removing makeup from or for cleansing keratin materials comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition comprising at least one volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms .

2. Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that said linear alkane comprises from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.

3. Method according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said volatile linear alkane is of plant origin .

4. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and mixtures thereof.

5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in the composition comprises a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane, or n- dodecane, or n-tetradecane, or a mixture thereof.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in the composition comprises at least two distinct volatile linear alkane, where said alkanes differ from each other by a number of carbon atoms of at least 1, and in particular by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes chosen from the following mixtures : from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of Cn volatile linear alkane, with n ranging from 9 to 15, from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of Cn+x volatile linear alkane with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x=l or x=2, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a mixture of undecane/tridecane (C11/C13) , said mixture comprising from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of CIl linear volatile alkane (n-undecane) , and from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of C13 linear volatile alkane (n-tridecane) , relative to the total weight of the composition in said mixture.

10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises from 2% to 90% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), better still from 5 to 70% by weight, in particular from 15 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 5% (in active material) by weight of anionic surfactants, preferably less than 4% by weight, more preferably, less than 3% by weight, better, less than 2% by weight, much better, less 1% by weight, and advantageously less thane 0,5% by weight of anionic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is free of anionic surfactant.

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises, one or more additional oils or organic solvents .