WO2000018360A1 - Use of polymers obtainable from hydroxystyrene in hair compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns the use of linear or branched polymers obtainable by a process consisting in homopolymerisation or (co)polymerisation of at least a hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or one of its salts, in cosmetic compositions for hair care, as film-forming agent for hair fixing and/or hair styling.

Description

 USE OF POLYMERS SUSCEPTIBLE OF BEING OBTAINED FROM HYDROXYSTYRENE IN HAIR COMPOSITIONS

The subject of the invention is the use of linear or branched polymers capable of being obtained by a process comprising a homo- or (co) -polymerization of at least one hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or the one of its salts in hair compositions, as a film-forming agent with a view to maintaining and / or shaping the hairstyle.

The most common hair products for fixing the hair on the cosmetics market are aerosol or pump spray compositions such as hairsprays, sprays or mousses, essentially consisting of a solution, most often alcoholic or hydroalcoholic and a film-forming polymer soluble in water or in alcohol, mixed with various cosmetic adjuvants.

Numerous compositions for maintaining and / or shaping the hair of the prior art, which contain in their formulation styling polymers, can alter the cosmetic properties of the hair. These can, after application of such compositions, become rough, lose their natural softness or their pleasant appearance.

Polymers are therefore sought for hair compositions, in particular for maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle, which provide the hair, in addition to satisfactory fixing, with good cosmetics, in particular good disentangling, softness and a feel. pleasant.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant has discovered that it is possible to respond to the above problems by using linear or branched polymers capable of being obtained by a process comprising a homo- or (co) -polymerization of at least one hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or one of its salts. The subject of the invention is the use, in a hair cosmetic composition, of linear or branched polymers capable of being obtained by a process comprising a homo- or (co) -polymerization of at least one hydroxystyrene monomer, the one of its precursors or one of its salts, the phenyl group of the monomer comprising at least one hydroxyl moiety and being optionally substituted by one or more radicals selected from the group comprising alkyl radicals to C _l2, alkoxyalkyl d to C ₁₂ , halogens, SO ₃ H, acyls (C ₂ to C ₁₂ ) amino, carboxy, carboxyalkyls C 1 to C ₁₂ , as film-forming agents, for the purpose of maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle.

Another object of the invention is a method for maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle which includes this use.

The linear or branched polymers particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Clariant under the name PHS-E, PHS-PG, PHS-N or even PHS-PG-L.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "precursor of a hydroxystyrene monomer" means any phenolic derivative capable of leading to hydroxystyrene by the way of a degradation reaction in an acid medium, in particular by dehydration in an acid medium. By way of example, the precursor can be acetoxystyrene or 4-hydroxyphenylmethyl carbinol and the degradation reaction can, in this case, be diagrammed as follows:

acid.

Le PHS-E est un homopolymère répondant à la formule:

PHS-E is a homopolymer corresponding to the formula:

PHS-E is obtained from acetoxystyrene by means of radical polymerization followed by hydrolysis. Its molecular mass is between 8,000 and 100,000 g / mol. PHS-E is a linear polymer.

PHS-PG is a polymer corresponding to the formula:

PHS-PG is obtained by polymerization catalyzed in an acid medium, from 4-hydroxyphéπylméthyl carbinol. Its molecular mass is between 4000 and 7000 g / mol.

PHS-N is a polymer corresponding to the formula:

PHS-N is a polymer obtained by catalyzed polymerization in an acid medium of 4-hydroxyphenylmetylcarbinol. Its molecular mass is between 4,000 and 7,000 g / mol.

PHS-PG-L is a polymer having the same crude formula as PHS-E. However, the process for obtaining it is different since the polymerization is carried out from hydroxystyrene monomers.

According to a first embodiment of the compositions in accordance with the invention, the polymer is capable of being obtained by the copolymerization of:

(i) at least one hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or one of its salts, the phenyl group of this monomer comprising at least one hydroxyl unit and being optionally substituted by one or more radicals chosen from the group comprising alkyl radicals of ₂ to Cι, alkoxyalkyl -C Cι _2, halogen, S0 ₃ H, acyl (C ₂ Cι ₂₎ amino, carboxy, carboxyalkyl Ci -C _i2, and (ii) at least one other monomer copolymerizable with said hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or one of its salts, this other monomer being chosen from the group comprising acrylic, methacrylic monomers or their derivatives, in particular acrylates or methacrylates of straight, cyclic or branched -C _10l such as acrylates or methacrylates of methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, and 2-ethyl-hexyl, the N-substituted or N, N'-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides, vinyl monomers such as vinyl halides, vinyl esters, in particular vinyl benzoate, vinyl tert-benzoate or vinyl acetate.

The vinyl, acrylic or methacrylic monomers may contain one or more siloxane groups. In this case, they are chosen, in particular, from the group comprising:

the monomers of formula CH2 = C (CH ₃ ) -C-0- (CH ₂ ) 3-Si-0-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₃ ,

- silicone macromonomers with vinyl, allyl monofunctional termination, ether ester or amide of acrylic or methacrylic acid, of formula CH ₂ = C (Rι) -CXR ₂ -Si (CH ₃ ) (R) -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 2-R3, in which:

- Ri represents H or CH ₃ ,

- X represents O or NH,

- R ₂ represents (CH ₂ ) _P , p being an integer which may be zero, - R ₃ and R ₄ represent, independently, CH ₃ or an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic group at d to C ₁₂ ; the vinyl, allyl, ether ester or amide monomer of acrylic or methacrylic acid comprising one or more halogen groups, in particular chlorinated and / or fluorinated groups and / or comprising an absorbing group in UVA and / or UVB, in in particular the benzylidene camphor and benzotriazole groups, which may or may not be substituted. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the polymer is obtained by a homopolymerization reaction. This can advantageously be carried out from acetoxystyrene to obtain the poly-p-acetoxystyrene and be followed by hydrolysis. It can also be carried out in an acid medium from 4-hydroxyphenylmethyl carbinol.

According to this embodiment of the invention, the polymer is advantageously a homopolymer belonging to the family of poly-p-hydroxystyrene, and preferably poly-4-hydroxystyrene is chosen.

In accordance with the invention, it is possible to use:

- only a linear homopolymer,

- only a branched homopolymer, or - a mixture of linear homopolymers and branched homopolymers.

The polymer used according to the invention is advantageously chosen from those which have a molecular mass of between 5,000 and 300,000 g / mol, and preferably between 8,000 and 100,000 g / mol.

In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the polymer (s) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.1 and 20% by weight, and more preferably, between 0.5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The polymers are used in a cosmetically acceptable medium which is preferably constituted by water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers or fatty acid esters, or water mixtures - solvent (s). These solvents are preferably Cι-C ₄ alcohols. Among these alcohols, there may be mentioned ethanol, isopropanol, polyalcohols such as diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, such as monoalkyl ethers of glycol, of diethylene glycol, of propylene glycol or of dipropylene glycol. Ethanol is particularly preferred.

It is also possible to use the polymers with at least one additive chosen from thickeners, fatty acid esters, fatty acid and glycerol esters, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not, soluble or insoluble in the composition , surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, polymers, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.

These additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which may advantageously range from 0.001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive depends on its nature and is easily determined by those skilled in the art.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition.

These compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in pump dispensers or in aerosol containers, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for fixing or treating hair. The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be in the form of creams, gels, emulsions or waxes.

When the composition formed with the polymer used according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol, with a view to obtaining a lacquer or a foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n -butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air can also be used as a propellant. You can also use a mixture of propellants. Preferably, dimethyl ether is used.

Advantageously, the propellant is present at a concentration between 5 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device and, more particularly, at a concentration between 10 and 60%.

The invention will be more fully illustrated with the aid of the following nonlimiting example.

All the percentages are relative percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLE (Comparative in pump bottle):

The following two styling compositions A and B were prepared. Composition A comprises a conventional film-forming polymer, while composition B comprises poly-4-hydroxystyrene. The formulations are summarized in Table 1 below. Table 1

A sensory test is carried out by implementing the protocol below.

Half a head is sprayed with compositions A and B packaged in pump bottle equipment on a panel of 7 models. After drying, an identical lacquering power is obtained and the ease of disentangling, the softness and the feel for each of these compositions is evaluated. For each of the 3 criteria, the experimenter assigns a score between 0 and 50 and the average is calculated on the panel. This average is reported in Table 2 below.

Table 2

Consequently, the combination according to the invention has a significant advantage in disentangling, gently and in touch. It is noted that the composition according to the invention provides a marked improvement with regard to the ease of disentangling.

Claims

1. Use, in a hair cosmetic composition, of linear or branched polymers capable of being obtained by a process comprising a homo- or a (co) -polymerization of at least one hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or l a salt thereof, the phenyl of this monomer group comprising at least one hydroxyl moiety and being optionally substituted by one or more radicals selected from the group comprising alkyl radicals Ci to C12 alkoxyalkyl -C Cι _2, halogen, S0 ₃ H, acyls (C ₂ to C ₁₂ ) amino, carboxy, carboxyalkyls d to C ₁₂ , as film-forming agents, with a view to maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the polymer has a molecular weight between 5,000 and 300,000, and preferably between 8,000 and 100,000. 3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is capable of being obtained by the copolymerization of: (i) at least one hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or one of its salts, the phenyl group of this monomer comprising at least one hydroxyl unit and being optionally substituted by one or more radicals chosen from the group comprising alkyl radicals in D to Cι, alkoxyalkyls in Ci in Cι ₂ , halogens, S0 ₃ H, acyls (C ₂ in C ₁₂ ) amino, carboxy, carboxyalkyls in Ci in Cι ₂ , and (ii) at least one other monomer copolymerizable with said hydroxystyrene monomer, one of its precursors or one of its salts, this other monomer being chosen from the group comprising acrylic, methacrylic monomers or their derivatives, in particular linear, cyclic or branched C1 to C10 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, N-substituted or N, N'-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides, vinyl monomers such as vinyl halides, vinyl esters, in particular vinyl benzoate, vinyl tert-benzoate or vinyl acetate. 4. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polymer is obtained by homopolymerization to obtain a polymer of the poly-p-hydroxystyrene type, optionally substituted, and preferably poly-4-hydroxystyrene. 5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer is present in the hair cosmetic composition at a concentration between 0.1 and 20% by weight, and preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also contains conventional cosmetic additives chosen from the group comprising fatty substances, thickening agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, antiperspirants, alkalizing agents, dyes, pigments, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, hydrocarbon polymers, volatile or unmodified or unmodified silicones, polyols, proteins and vitamins. 7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, for the manufacture of a hair product for maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle. 8. Use according to claim 7, in which the product is applied without rinsing. 9. A method for maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle, characterized in that it comprises a use according to any one of the preceding claims.