WO1998002137A1

WO1998002137A1 - Composition in gel form for skin oiliness balancing

Info

Publication number: WO1998002137A1
Application number: PCT/BR1997/000026
Authority: WO
Inventors: Simoni Chitarra Souza; Luiz Gustavo Martins Matheus
Original assignee: Industria e Comercio de Cosmeticos Natura Ltda
Current assignee: Industria e Comercio de Cosmeticos Natura Ltda
Priority date: 1996-07-12
Filing date: 1997-07-10
Publication date: 1998-01-22
Anticipated expiration: 1999-01-12
Also published as: BR9603086A; PE95998A1; AR007870A1; CO5300391A1

Abstract

The present invention provides a fluid gel for skin care, exhibiting antiseptic action, of keratolytic action, which promotes gentle refreshing sensation when applied to the skin. It is constituted of a new active substances set, each one of them providing a specific action, namely: a renovating agent, allantoin, a moisturizing agent, sodium PCA, a skin restoring agent, Aloe vera extract, a keratolytic agent, salicylic acid, an antiseptic agent, triclosan, two skin oiliness regulation agents, Hawthorn extract and Cytobiol iris extract, which cooperate in skin oiliness regulation, controlling secretion excess and, or sebaceous glands or follicle obstruction, avoiding skin irritations. These active substances are formulated with usual additives, that are dissolved and/or dispersed in an aqueous vehicle, thickened through usual techniques so as to form a gel with adequate consistency and stability. The present gel is specially indicated for use together with a liquid antiseptic soap, which is the object of a co-pending request of the same claimant.

Description

"COMPOSITION IN GEL FORM FOR SKIN OILINESS BALANCING".

Description

The present invention provides a new composition, in gel form, to be applied to the skin of individuals subjected to skin affections, as acne, pimples and blackheads, caused due to excessive oiliness of the sebaceous secreting glands, with the aim of reducing skin oiliness, maintaining it balanced in relation to cutis optimizing conditions.

This gel, according to the invention, promotes antiseptic action and mild refreshing sensation when applied to the skin. As in the above mentioned affections it is necessary to remove the secreted products and inactive cells residues, the invented gel also exhibits a keratolytic action, acting on cellular renovation and capillary and sebaceous follicle clearance. Particularly, this gel contains active principles acting on skin oiliness regulation, maintaining the skin in an optimized level for the performance of its own functions when directly exposed to the environment, specially the face.

In order to substantiate the multiple action of this gel, the present invention makes the cooperative association of various active principles in mutually optimizing ratios.

These active principles, characterizing the present composition, are:

1 ) A renovating agent for cutis cells, being this allantoin, added in a 0,05 to 0,50% ratio, by weight, in relation to the global composition. The allantoin favors the cellular proliferation, restoring the affected tissue, calming down irritations and dissipating skin roughness.

2) A specific moisturizing agent, being this a sodium PCA, in other words, the sodium PCA salt, a skin moisturizing natural component, v.g. NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) moisturizing compound. This component corresponds to 0,10 to 2,00%, by weight, in relation to the global composition. 3) One reinforcing moisturizing agent, being this a natural product, namely Aloe vera extract. This component, contributing to cutaneous hydration, efficiently collaborates to the skin anti-inflammatory and restoring scaring action, exerted by the invented gel. This agent corresponds to 0,10 to 0,50%, by weight, in relation to the global composition. 4) A keratolytic agent, added in a 0,30 to 2,00% ratio, by weight, in relation to the composition. This agent is salicylic acid, which collaborates to the formation of an unfavorable medium for bacterial proliferation, helping in skin's irritations and inflammations treatment.

5) A surface antiseptic, of specific bacteriostatic action, being this triclosan, added in a 0,05 to 0,50% ratio, by weight, in relation to the global composition. 6) An association of two skin oiliness regulating agents, being them, respectively, Hawthorn extract and Cytobiol iris vegetable extract. The Hawthorn extract is also a vegetable extract, being rich in organic acids and natural antioxidants, flavonoids and procyanides, which have a significant action in skin lesions reduction, caused by inflammations and acne. This extract is capable of reducing the Propionibacte um acnes population. Great quantities of this microorganism can be found in the skin subjected to acne affections. This extract collaborates to the inflammatory process reduction and, in association to salicylic acid, mitigates the hyperkeratinization.

This oiliness regulating agents association corresponds to composition's 10,00 to 50,00%, by weight. In this association, the relative proportion of Hawthorn extract in relation to Cytobiol iris extract varies between 1 :1 and 2:3, by weight. A specially adequate ratio of Hawthorn extract varies between 5,00% to 20,00%, by weight, and between 5,00% to 30,00%, by weight, of Cytobiol iris extract, in relation to the global composition. Cytobiol iris extract is a product extracted from Iris germanica, a complex containing zinc and vitamin A in hydrosoluble forms, having proved favorable action in the bacteriostatic and anti-inflammatory (in case of acne) actuation area and sebaceous secretion regulation.

Formulation

The above listed active substances are formulated in the form of an aqueous gel through usual processing techniques, and can be processed at room temperature, with adjunction of adequate additives, also known by themselves.

These adjuvant additives form the liquid basis, which acts as vehicle for the active substances dispersion or dissolution, being adjusted to guarantee the physical, chemical and also microbiological formulation stability and a pleasant sensorial when the product is applied to the skin. If desired, the formulation can also contain perfume.

The referred additives comprise: a) An aqueous vehicle, in a ratio varying between 60,00 to 80,00%, by weight, corresponding to the basis. b) An antioxidant agent, to avoid the deterioration of the substances sensible to the oxygen contained in the air, contributing for composition's chemical stability. This antioxidant is chosen between butyl hydroxytoluene (BHT), butyl hydroxyanisole (BHA), di-alpha-tocopherol and ascorbic acid, added in a ratio varying between 0,01 to 0,10%, by weight, in relation to the basis. c) A thickener agent, which corroborates in the aqueous phase gelling, giving the composition a gel consistency. This thickener is at least one component of the group comprising vinyl polymers, as poly(vinyl acetate) and/or poly(vinyl alcohol), acrylics, specially hydrophilic (met)acrylates, gums, starch and modified starches, modified aluminium and magnesium silicates, alkylaryl ammonium compounds, esmectitas, cellulose derivatives, specially cellulosic esters and ethers, fatty alcohols, polyethylene glycol stearates and hydrated aluminium silicates. These agents are added in a 0,10 to 5,00% ratio, by weight, in relation to the basis. d) A solutizing agent of hydroinsoluble or hydrofuge components, that is chosen between at least one ethanolic compounds, ethoxylated and/or hydrogenated and/or modified fatty alcohols derivatives, sulphonic alkyl benzene derivatives and dependent. These are added in a ratio varying between 1 ,00 to 15,00%, by weight, in relation to the basis. e) An humectant agent, as glycerols, glycols, sorbitol, hydrosoluble silicones, to facilitate the dispersion of components which are not soluble in the aqueous phase. Its ratio, in relation to the basis, varies between 2,00 to 20,00%, by weight. Preferably, during the gel preparation, the first step is the keratolytic agent, namely the salicylic acid, and the antiseptic agent triclosan cold solubilization, in a chosen solutizing agent ratio, for example ethanol or one of its derivatives and/or ethyl ether. This solution is than incorporated to the vehicle, preferably, already containing the thickener, humectant and antioxidant agents, specially, through mechanical homogenization.

Following some typical examples, which should not be considered as delimiting, because is obvious the possibility of substituting the agents listed in the examples by others, already above described, as also varying the respective ratios within the above mentioned limits, as it is usual in cosmetology.

Example 1

As typical example, we have a fluid gel, sufficiently thickened so that it does not exhibit free flowing, whose active part is comprised of: 0,25%, by weight, of allantoin, renovating,

0,75%, by weight, of sodium PCA, moisturizing,

0,25%, by weight, of cooperative moisturizer, which is Aloe vera extract,

0,80%, by weight, of salicylic acid, keratolytic,

0,25%, by weight, of triclosan, antiseptic, 6,20%, by weight, of oiliness regulator, which is Hawthorn extract,

6,50%, by weight, of Cytobiol iris extract, reinforcing oiliness regulating agent. This active part of the formulation, totalizing 15,00%, by weight, is dissolved/dispersed in a vehicle containing additives, totalizing 85%, comprising: 0,05%, by weight, of ascorbic acid as antioxidant, 9,95%, by weight, of ethanolic solutizer, 3,00%, by weight, of thickener constituted of poly(vinyl acetate) with a 60% acetylation grade and 8,00%, by weight, of hydrosoluble silicone, in a corresponding distilled or demineralized water quantity necessary to complete composition's 100,00%, by weight. Examples 2 and 3

Example 1 represents the milder formulation type, to be used for the care of skins little affected by irritations and inflammations. The invention provides a component variation, specially, of the actives described in example 1 , obtaining two complementary formulations, one exhibiting intermediate activity, example 2, for skins more affected by acne and other inflammations, and the other, example 3, of more vigorous action and higher active principles concentration for skins exhibiting high oiliness or deeper skin lesions.

Thus, in example 2, the mentioned active principles are added in a ratio, on the average, 1 ,50 times higher than in example 1.

In example 3, the addition ratios of the active agents: allantoin, sodium PCA and salicylic acid are two times higher than the ones described in example 1 , while the ratios of Aloe vera, Hawthorn and Cytobiol iris extracts are three times higher than the ones described in example 1. To complete formulations 2 and 3, the adjuvant components are accordingly adjusted, so that it is possible to obtain an aqueous gel, exhibiting the desired consistency for skin application, without exhibiting free flowing, according to cosmetics laboratory routines.

Of course it is also possible to make other variations in the invented gel composition, attaining the respective above mentioned limits.

Conducted Tests

The gels for skin oiliness balancing, related to this invention, were submitted to dermatological tests, including primary and cumulative or accumulative dermal irritability evaluations, sensitization, phototoxicity and photoallergy. The invented products were approved in the tests and, thus, considered dermatologist tested and accepted.

In the conducted comedogenicity test, the invented product received the status of "not comedogenic". A clinical test was conducted to verify the specific action of the invented products, with 12 to 24 years old volunteers. The main objective was to evaluate their efficiency in acne grades I and II incidence and similar skin affections, caused due to excessive oiliness. The obtained results were positive in approximately 2/3 of the examined cases. However, the application of the present gel in association to the liquid antiseptic soap, which is the object of a co-pending request of the same claimant, resulted in a skin oiliness reduction in 92,5% of the volunteers and in lesions number reduction in 65,0% of the examined cases.

Thus, it is possible to verify that the present invention product attains the collimated results.

Claims

1. Composition in gel form, for skin oiliness balancing, with sebum secretion control in the sebaceous follicle, promoting its clearance, and skin moisturizing and cellular renovation, with improvement of skin aspect, characterized by the fact of containing 10,51 to 55,50%, by weight, of an active components set, constituted of:

0,05 to 0,50%, by weight, of allantoin, as skin renovating agent, 0,10 to 2,00%, by weight, of sodium PCA, as skin moisturizing agent, 0,01 to 0,50%, by weight, of Aloe vera extract, exhibiting skin moisturizing and restoring action,

0,30 to 2,00%, by weight, of salicylic acid, as keratolytic agent, 0,05 to 0,50%, by weight, of triclosan, as antiseptic agent, 5,00 to 20,00%, by weight, of Hawthorn extract, exhibiting skin oiliness regulating action, and

5,00 to 30,00%, by weight, of a cooperative agent for skin oiliness regulation, which is the Cytobiol iris extract, being the remaining to complete composition's 100,00%, by weight, constituted of a vehicle, exhibiting the consistency of a fluid gel, water based, containing complementary agents, so as to give the composition the adequate consistency, stability and pleasant sensorial when applied to the skin, being them antioxidant agents, thickener, solutizer and humectant.

2. Composition in gel form, according to vindication 1 , characterized by the fact of comprising 0,01 to 0,10%, by weight, of at least one antioxidant agent, chosen between butyl hydroxytoluene (BHT), butyl hydroxyanisole (BHA), di-alpha-tocopherol, ascorbic acid.

3. Composition in gel form, according to vindication 1 , characterized by the fact of comprising 0,10 to 5,00%, by weight, of at least one thickener agent, chosen between vinyl polymers, acrylic, gums, starch and modified starches, modified aluminium and magnesium silicates, alkylaryl ammonium compounds, esmectitas, cellulose derivatives, specially their esters and ethers, fatty alcohols, polyethylene glycol stearates and hydrated aluminium silicates.

4. Composition in gel form, according to vindication 1 , characterized by the fact of comprising 1 ,00 to 15,00%, by weight, of at least one solutizing agent, chosen between ethanolic compounds, ethoxylated fatty alcohols derivatives and alkyl benzene derivatives and dependents.

5. Composition in gel form, according to vindication 1 , characterized by the fact of comprising 2,00 to 20,00%, by weight, of at least one humectant agent, chosen between glycerols, glycols, sorbitol, hydrosoluble silicones.