WO1993001792A1 - Process for the oxidative colouring of hair - Google Patents

Abstract

A process for the oxidative colouring of hair based on a colorant compound F containing a combination of a developer and coupler which is used after mixing with an oxidising agent in which, in a first step, the colorant compound F is mixed with a preparation A containing an oxidising agent and then the mixture FA obtained is applied to the new hair and allowed to work and, in a second step, the colorant compound F is mixed with a preparation B containing an oxidising agent and the mixture FB thus obtained is applied to the existing hair and tips and allowed to work, preparation B having a more acid pH value than preparation A, and finally the hair is rinsed with water, post-treated if necessary and then dried. The novel hair colouring process gives an excellent colour match between the new hair, the existing hair and the tips and good hair colouring permanence.

Description

 Description

Process for oxidative coloring of hair

The present invention relates to a process for the oxidative coloring of hair, in which an optimal color balance between the hairline on the one hand and hair lengths and hair tips on the other hand is achieved.

Oxidation hair colorants consist of two components which are mixed shortly before use and then applied to the hair to be colored. The first component, the dye carrier, contains the dyeing substances. The second component is usually an aqueous, emulsion-like or also a powder-like product in which a suitable oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, is contained.

The color result and the color levelness of an oxidative hair color is not only dependent on the composition of the colorants and the dyeing process, but in particular on the hair quality which changes from the hairline to the porous hair tips. The degree of damage to the hair generally increases with increasing hair length, starting from the roots up to the tips. Such hair damage is also present in human hair that has already been oxidatively colored several times. The hair lengths and hair tips are oxidatively damaged by the coloring, while the hairline (hair growth) is not damaged. As a result of this different hair composition, it is difficult in many cases to obtain a balanced color result and good durability of the hair coloring. This is especially observed with fashion tones. Normally the hair is dyed again about 3 to 8 weeks after the last color treatment. In the standard hair dyeing process, the dye carrier is first mixed with a hydrogen peroxide preparation and the mixture is then applied to the hairline, where it is left to act for about 15 to 45 minutes. The mixture is then distributed, for example with a comb, into the hair lengths and hair tips, where they are left to act for a further 2 to 8 minutes. Then the hair is rinsed with water and dried.

When using the above-described standard hair dyeing method on longer, damaged hair, in particular in the case of fashion shades, adequate color balance is not achieved. The hair lengths and hair tips are only insufficiently colored in the desired shade. In addition, there is an inadequate durability of the hair coloring, especially with regard to subsequent shampoo treatments.

Attempts to solve this problem have not been successful. For example, a method has been proposed in which the porous hair lengths and hair tips are pre-pickled with a mixture of colorant and water before the mixture of colorant and hydrogen peroxide preparation is distributed from the hairline into the hair lengths and tips. Although the above method does improve in some cases, it is still unsatisfactory in its entirety. The object was therefore to provide a hair dyeing process for the oxidative dyeing of hair, in which an optimal color balance between hairline (new hair) on the one hand and hair lengths and hair tips on the other hand and a very good durability of the hair dyeing is achieved.

It has now been found that a process for the oxidative dyeing of hair, based on a dye carrier mass F, which contains a developer substance-coupler substance combination and which is used after mixing with an oxidizing agent, in which a first Step the dye carrier mass F is mixed with a preparation A containing an oxidizing agent and then the mixture FA thus obtained is applied to the hairline (hair growth) and allowed to act and in a second step the dye carrier mass F is mixed with a preparation B containing an oxidizing agent and then the mixture FB thus obtained is applied to the hair lengths and hair tips and allowed to act, the preparation B having a more acidic pH than the preparation A, and finally rinsing the hair with water, optionally aftertreated and then drying, the task set being convincing is solved.

The new hair coloring process achieves an excellent color balance between hairline, hair lengths and hair tips as well as a very good durability of the hair coloring.

The dye carrier mass F used in the process according to the invention is a dye carrier mass which is customary for oxidative hair dyeing and which comprises at least one coupler substance and at least one developer substance and, if appropriate, additionally contains self-coupling color precursors and absorbing dyes directly on the hair. The developer and coupler substances are used in the dye carrier composition either as such or in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, for example as chloride, sulfate, phosphate, acetate, propionate, lactate or citrate.

The combination of suitable developer substances and coupler substances enables a wide range of different color shades to be produced.

The coupler substances are generally used in an approximately molar amount, based on the developer substances used. Even if the equimolar use proves to be expedient, it is not disadvantageous if the coupler substance is used in a certain excess or deficit. Furthermore, it is not necessary for the developer component and the coupler component to be uniform products; rather, both the developer component can be a mixture of known developer substances and the coupler component can be a mixture of known coupler substances.

1-naphthol, 4-methoxy-1-naph ol, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 4,6-dichlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 2-amino come from the known coupler substances as constituent of the color carrier mass F -4- ((2'-hydroxyethyl) amino) anisole, 2-amino-4-ethylamino-anisole, 2,4-diaminobenzyl alcohol, m-phenylenediamine, 5-amino-2-ethylphenol, 2,4- Diaminophenoxyethanol, m-aminophenol, 3-amino-4-chloro-6-iϊiethylphenol, 3-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxyphenoxyethanol, 4-hydroxy-l, 2-methylenedioxybenzene, 4-amino- 1,2-methylenedioxybenzene, 4- ((2'-Hydroxyethyl) amino) -1,2-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-5-ethoxytoluene, 4-hydroxyindole, 3-amino-5-ethoxytoluene, 4-hydroxyindole, 3-amino-5 -hydroxy-2,6-dimethoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine alone or in a mixture or their physiologically tolerable, water-soluble salts.

In addition, the dye carrier composition F contains developer substances, in particular 1,4-diaminobenzene, 2,5-diamino toluene, 2,5-diaminobenzyl alcohol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -1, 4-diaminobenzene, 4-aminophenol , 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-ethoxymethylphenol as well as tetraaminopyridine or their physiologically compatible, water-soluble salts.

Such oxidation dyes known and customary for hair dyeing are described, inter alia, in the book by E. Sagarin, "Cosmetics, Science and Technology", Interscience Publishers Inc., New York (1957), pages 507 ff., And in the book by K Schrader, "Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics", Dr. A. Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg (1979), pages 533 ff., As well as in the book by H. Janistyn, "Handbuch der Kosmetika und Riechstoffe" (1973), pages 338 ff.

The developer substances and the coupler substances are contained in the dye carrier mass F in an amount of 0.01 to 8.0 percent by weight, preferably 0.02 to 4.0 percent by weight.

The total amount of developer-coupler-substance combination contained in the dye carrier mass F described here should be about 0.01 to 12.0 percent by weight, but preferably 0.2 to 6.0 percent by weight. Furthermore, the dye carrier mass F can also contain other color components, for example the self-coupling dyes 6-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino5-ethoxyphenol and 2-amino-5-methylphenol and also conventional direct dyes, for example triphenylmethane dyes such as diamond Fuchsine (CI 42 510) and Leather Ruby HF (CI 42 520), aromatic nitro dyes such as 2-nitro-l, 4-diamino-benzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 2-amino-4-nitro-6 -chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-nitrotoluene. 4 - ((3'-hydroxypropyl) amino) -3-nitrophenol, 2-amino-5-nitrophenol, 2-amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 2-amino-5 - ((2'-hydroxyethyl) amino ) - nitrobenzene, 1 - ((2'-ureidoethyl) amino) -4-nitrobenzene, picramic acid, 2- ((2'-hydroxyethyl) amino) -4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - ((2 ' -Hydroxyethyl) -amino) -2-nitroaniline and azo dyes such as Acid Brown 4 (CI 14 805) and Acid Blue 135 (CI 13 385), as well as anthraquinone dyes such as Disperse Violet 4 (CI 61 105), Disperse Blue 1 (CI 64 500 ), Disperse Red 15 (CI 60 710), also contain 1,4,5,8-tetraaminoanthraquinone and 1,4-diaminoanthraquinone.

Other suitable dyes that are absorbed directly onto the hair are described, for example, in the book by J.C. Johnson "Hair Dyes", Noyes Data Corp., Park Ridge, USA (1973), pages 3 to 91 and 113 to 139 (ISBN: 0-8155-0477-2).

The total amount of the self-coupling and direct dyes in the dye carrier mass F is 0.01 to 6.0 percent by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4.0 percent by weight. Of course, the coupler and developer substances as well as the other color components mentioned above, if they are bases, can also be in the form of the physiologically compatible acid addition salts, such as hydrochlorides or sulfates or - if they are aromatic OH- Have groups - in the form of the salts with bases, for example as alkali phenolates, used in the dye carrier mass F.

In addition, the dye carrier mass F may also contain other customary cosmetic additives, for example antioxidants such as ascorbic acid, thioglycolic acid or sodium sulfite, perfume oils, complexing agents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, care agents and others.

The preparation form of the dye carrier mass F described here can be, for example, an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution. However, the particularly preferred preparation forms are a cream, a gel or an emulsion. Their composition represents a mixture of the dye components with the additives customary for such preparations.

Usual additives in solutions, creams, emulsions or gels are, for example, solvents such as water, lower aliphatic mono- or polyhydric alcohols, for example ethanol, propanol and isopropanol, or glycols such as glycerol and 1,2-propylene glycol, furthermore wetting agents or Emulsifiers from the classes of the anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surface-active substances such as fatty alcohol sulfates, ethoxylated fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty alcohol oxethanesulfonates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, alkylbetaines, oxethylated Fatty alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty alcohol, ethoxylated nonylphenols, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, further thickeners such as higher fatty alcohols, wool wax alcohols, starch or cellulose derivatives, furthermore petroleum jelly, paraffin oil and fatty acids as well as care substances such as cationic resins, lanolin derivatives, cholesterol cholesterol and betaine. The constituents mentioned are used in the amounts customary for such purposes, for example the wetting agents and emulsifiers in concentrations of about 0.5 to 30 percent by weight, the thickeners in an amount of about 0.1 to 25 percent by weight and the care substances in one Concentration from about 0.1 to 5.0 percent by weight.

Depending on the composition, the dye carrier mass F has a pH of 8 to 13, preferably 8.0 to 12.5, the adjustment preferably being carried out with ammonia. However, organic amines, for example monoethanolamine and triethanolamine, or else inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide can also be used.

For use in the oxidative dyeing of hair, the dye carrier mass F described above is mixed with the preparation A or B containing an oxidizing agent immediately before use, and an amount sufficient for the hair dye treatment, depending on the fullness of the hair, is generally about 60 to 200 g , this mixture according to the inventive method on the hair.

The main oxidizing agents used to develop hair color are hydrogen peroxide or its Addition compounds to urea, melanin or sodium borate are considered, with hydrogen peroxide being preferred.

Preparations A or B may contain conventional ingredients for such compositions, such as, for example, organic or inorganic acids, stabilizers, opacifiers, thickeners, emulsifiers and perfume oils.

The preparation A is adjusted to a pH of 2.3 to 5, preferably 2.3 to 4.0, while the preparation B a pH of 0.8 to 3, preferably 0.8 to 2, 5 has.

The pH of the preparations A or B is adjusted by adding physiologically compatible organic or inorganic acids, with phosphoric acid being preferred. This can also be used in combination with primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates.

Preparation A contains more oxidizing agent than preparation B. With hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent, its content in preparation A is 2.0 to 12 percent by weight, preferably 3.0 to 9 percent by weight, while preparation B preferably 0.1 to 6 percent by weight ¬ as 0.2 to 3.0 weight percent, contains hydrogen peroxide.

In the process according to the invention for the oxidative dyeing of hair, the dye carrier mass F is mixed with the preparations A or B containing an oxidizing agent mixed in a ratio of about 4: 1 to 1: 4, with a mixing ratio of about 1: 1 being preferred.

The pH value of the dye carrier mass F is reduced by mixing with the preparations A or B, the lowering of the pH value in connection with preparation B being greater.

The pH of the mixtures FA and FB is between 7.5 and 13, the pH of the mixture FA being 0.5 to 1.5 higher than the pH of the mixture FB.

The low pH of the FB mixture means that the ammonia content in this mixture, based on the colorant F, is reduced by about 30 to 80%.

As a result of the low ammonia content of the mixture FB, this has a less damaging effect on the hair lengths and hair ends, in particular when used repeatedly, which leads to an even better color balance in the long term.

Conversely, the higher ammonia content of the mixture FA acts only on the hairline (hair growth), that is, where the hair is undamaged and more ammonia is required for coloring and brightening.

In the method according to the invention, the mixture FA is applied to the hairline (new hair) and the mixture FB to the hair lengths and hair tips. The mixture FA is allowed to act on the hair for about 15 to 45 minutes and the mixture FB for about 2 to 20 minutes at a dyeing temperature of 15 to 45 ° C. After the desired exposure time of the mixtures FA and FB, they are rinsed out of the hair with water and the hair is dried.

In a further embodiment of the method according to the invention, shortly before the end of the exposure time, the two mixtures FA and FB are distributed and mixed throughout the hair by combing or emulsifying and then rinsed out of the hair with water.

If necessary, after the rinsing, the hair is washed with a shampoo and possibly aftertreated with a weak organic acid, such as citric acid or tartaric acid. The hair is then dried. It has taken on a uniform color from the hairline to the ends of the hair.

The following examples are intended to explain the subject of the invention in more detail:

Examples of dye carriers

Dye carrier mass Fl (cream-shaped)

Cetyl alcohol

Mixture of glycerol monodistearate and potassium stearate (Tegin®)

Sodium lauryl sulfate

Sodium lauryl alcohol diglycol ether sulfate, 28 percent

2,5-diaminotoluene sulfate

Resorcinol

4-amino-3-methylphenol

3-amino-6-methylpheno1

6-amino-3-methylphenol

Sodium sulfite, anhydrous

Ammonia, 25 percent

Water, fully desalinated

Dye carrier mass F2 (liquid)

Oleic acid

Lauryl alcohol, oxethylated with 2 moles of ethylene oxide

Isopropanol

2,5-diaminotoluene sulfate

4-amino-3-methylphenol

3-amino-6-methylpheno1

Picramic acid

Sodium sulfite, anhydrous

Ammonia, 25 percent

Water, fully desalinated

100.0 g Examples of preparations containing oxidizing agents

100.0 g

The pH was adjusted to 3.5 with dilute phosphoric acid.

Preparation B (emulsion-shaped)

Cetyl alcohol cholesterol

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (Texapon ® N25)

Hydrogen peroxide, 50 percent o-phosphoric acid, 85 percent water, fully desalinated

100.0 g

The pH is 1.5 Examples of hair coloring procedures

Example 5:

The dye carrier mass F1 is mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with the preparation A, so that the mixture FIA is formed. Correspondingly, the dye carrier mass F1 is mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with the preparation B, so that the mixture FIB is formed. The pH of the mixture FIA is 10.4, while the mixture FIB has a pH of 9.4. The FIA mixture is applied to the hairline (hair regrowth) of gold-orange colored hair 4 weeks ago and left to act at room temperature for 20 minutes. 7 minutes before the end of the exposure time of the mixture FIA, the mixture FIB is applied to the lengths and tips of the hair and allowed to act. After these 7 minutes, the mixtures FIA and FIB are rinsed out with water and the hair is dried. The hair has taken on a very balanced golden orange color, which has excellent stability against shampoo treatments.

Example 6:

The dye carrier mass F2 is mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with the preparation A, so that the mixture F2A is formed. Correspondingly, the dye carrier mass F2 is mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with the preparation B, so that the mixture F2B is formed. The pH of the mixture F2A is 10.5, while the mixture F2B has a pH of 9.5. The mixture F2A is applied to the Hairline (hair growth) of a hair dyed red 4 weeks ago and leaves it to act at room temperature for 30 minutes. 10 minutes before the end of the exposure time of the mixture F2A, the mixture F2B is applied to the lengths and tips of the hair and allowed to act. After these 10 minutes, the two mixtures F2A and F2B are distributed throughout the hair by emulsification and then rinsed out immediately. The emulsification process takes about 1 minute. After drying, the hair has taken on a balanced, intense red color from the hairline to the hair tips, which has excellent stability with respect to shampoo treatments.

Claims

Patent claims 1. A process for the oxidative dyeing of hair, based on a dye carrier mass F which contains a developer substance-coupler substance combination and which is used after mixing with an oxidizing agent, characterized in that the dye carrier mass F mixed with a preparation A containing an oxidizing agent and then applying the mixture FA thus obtained to the hairline (hair regrowth) and allowing it to act, and in a second step the dye carrier composition F with a preparation B containing an oxidizing agent mixed and then the mixture FB obtained in this way is applied to the hair lengths and hair tips and allowed to act, the preparation B having a more acidic pH than the preparation A, and then lending the hair rinsed with water, optionally aftertreated and then drying. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized gekenn¬ characterized in that hydrogen peroxide is used as the oxidizing agent. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized gekenn¬ characterized in that the preparation A is adjusted to a pH of 2.3 to 5. 4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, da¬ characterized in that the preparation B is adjusted to a pH of 0.8 to 3. 5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the pH of the preparations A and B is adjusted with phosphoric acid. 6. The method according to any one of claims 2 to 5, da¬ characterized in that the preparation A contains 2.0 to 12 weight percent hydrogen peroxide. 7. The method according to any one of claims 2 to 6, da¬ characterized in that the preparation B contains 0.1 to 6 weight percent hydrogen peroxide. 8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the color carrier mass F is mixed with the preparation A or the preparation B in a ratio of 4: 1 to 1: 4. 9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, da¬ characterized in that the mixture FA is allowed to act for 15 to 45 minutes. 10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, da¬ characterized in that the mixture FB is allowed to act for 2 to 20 minutes. 11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the pH of the mixtures FA and FB is between 7.5 and 13. 12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the pH of the mixture FA is 0.5 to 1.5 higher than the pH of the mixture FB.