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US3749139A - Weaving method for the production of multi-colored ribbons and associated shuttle-type jaquard ribbon looms - Google Patents

Weaving method for the production of multi-colored ribbons and associated shuttle-type jaquard ribbon looms Download PDF

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Publication number
US3749139A
US3749139A US00186266A US3749139DA US3749139A US 3749139 A US3749139 A US 3749139A US 00186266 A US00186266 A US 00186266A US 3749139D A US3749139D A US 3749139DA US 3749139 A US3749139 A US 3749139A
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Prior art keywords
threads
thread
shuttle
differently colored
shed
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US00186266A
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English (en)
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E Rath
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LUEDORF C AND CO
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LUEDORF C AND CO
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D47/00—Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms
    • D03D47/34—Handling the weft between bulk storage and weft-inserting means
    • D03D47/38—Weft pattern mechanisms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D35/00—Smallware looms, i.e. looms for weaving ribbons or other narrow fabrics

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  • ABSTRACT [30] Foreign Application Priority Dam V Veaving method for the production of multi-colored ribbons in any desired geometrical figures and color Oct. 21, 1970 Germany P 20 5l 572.4 patterns on a yp Jacquard loom utilizing a ground warp and differently colored threads, to be in- [52] US.
  • FIG. IA is a diagrammatic representation of FIG. IA
  • This invention relates to a weaving method for the production of multi-colored ribbons in any desired geometrical and color pattern on a shuttle-type Jacquard ribbon loom by utilizing a ground warp and differently colored threads to be interlaced as weft to form the ground and figures.
  • the invention also relates to a shuttie-type Jacquard ribbon loom for carrying out the weaving method.
  • the object of the invention is to provide a weaving method which permits the production of ribbons with weft figures in any desired number of different colors and in any desired geometrical and color pattern on conventional Jacquard looms with a plurality of shuttles, and in which the number of colors of the ribbon is greater than the number of shuttles of the loom.
  • geometrical pattern as utilized in the present application is used in the most-general sense since, according to the invention, it is possible for flower patterns, abstract ornaments, inscriptions, and the like, to
  • the weavingmethod according to the invention is characterized in that the multi-colored threads for forming the ground and the'figures are supplied in the warp direction and are-picked into the ground warp in the form of weft threads by a plurality of shuttle threads as an insertion weave.
  • the present method is also characterized in that working threads are entrained with the ground warp, these working threads being distributed in accordance with the width of the colored figures and on which the differently colored threads are interlaced, one of the shuttle threads inserting the thread which forms the ground weft while the remaining shuttle threads interlace one or more colored threads for figures which are disposed in the middle of the ribbon or for figures which extend into the outer ribbon zones.
  • the weaving method is utilized as an insertion weaving for forming the weft of the entire ribbon, the multiple coloring and pattern of the ribbon being unlimited.
  • this enables ribbons with eight or ten colors to be produced on conventional shuttle-type Jacquard looms and, on the other hand, it achieves the special advantage that the entire thread material, utilized for theweft and introduced in the warp direction, may be drawn off from large supply reels while-the shuttle or shuttles pick only one or more catch threads" into the fabric, the function of the catch threads" being to insert'the colored threads which are supplied in the warp direction into the ribbon to extend substantially only in the warp direction in the finished ribbon.
  • the working threads which perform. a number of functions and which have a critical significance in the method of the present invention produce a better reverse pattern of the material since the reversing positions of the differently colored inserted weft threads are distributed over the width of the ribbon. Since these weft threads are necessarily the cause of bead-like thickenings of the ribbon at their reversing positions, distribution thereof over different working threads results in a ribbon which is more uniform in its entirety. Moreover, the working threads retain the excess length of inserted threads extending beyond the pattern width on the reverse of the ribbon, resulting in simpler processing of the ribbon when it is sewn into a garment or the like.
  • the working threads result in a saving of weft material due to the reversing positions being closer to the pattern positions. Furthermore,'the-working threads enable shuttle threads, otherwise visible in the cloth image, to be concealed on the reverse of the ribbon. Finally, the working threads function essentially to permit complete freedom in the selection of the geometrical and color patterns of the ribbon.
  • each working thread is subdivided into two partial working threads which operate in opposition to each other. This counteracts the'formation of perforations within the ribbonand improvestheappearance of the cloth.
  • the colored threads which are to be inserted as weft are briefly stored on the supply side and are supplied with a tension which is substantially lower than that of the ground warp threads and of the working threads.
  • the method described hereinabove for producing multicolored ribbons is particularly economical and advantageous because it may be performed on conventional shuttle-type Jacquard looms and, in particular, on coarse pitch looms.
  • conventional shuttle-type Jacquard looms the shed is closed after every-weft has been picked, i.e., after a forward and reverse motion of the shuttle, and the weft thread is pressed against the edge of the material.
  • the shed be closed and the slay beaten up after every shuttle pick resulting in the insertion of a weft andthat the ground warp threads be retained in the open shed position after the intermediate shuttle picking motion which results in gripping of the thread to be inserted.
  • the invention ensures that in the novel method, a weft, namely a double weft thread, is picked only by every second picking of the shuttle thread (forward motion of the shuttle) where the shuttle thread itself is not interlaced over the width of the ribbon but'is to be returned to the edge or working thread during the return motion of the shuttle.
  • the present invention therefore, avoids beating up of the shuttle thread, which is subsequently drawn back in any case, thus avoiding unnecessary changeover of the ground warp threads and therefore eliminating trouble sources in the weaving operation.
  • the invention proposes to use a conventional Jacquard ribbon loom with supply means for the ground warp and with several shuttles, the loom being additionally provided with supply means for the colored ribbons to be inserted, these supply means comprising supports for the thread supply reels, thread brakes, short-period stores for the threads, and a thread spacer, these parts being disposed upstream of the harness in the aforementioned sequence, and in which the shuttle thread exit in the shuttle or shuttles of the loom is displaced laterally towards one of the longitudinal ends of the shuttle bobbin.
  • a short-period store is provided for each colored weft thread, the weft thread being guided through this store by means of reversing eyelets or the like in looped form, at least one reversing eyelet being mounted on a tension spring which acts against the direction of thread draw-off.
  • this tension spring maintains the desired thread tension and, on the other hand, permits a jerk-like thread draw-off accompanied by corresponding emptying of the store which is once again refilled underthe action of the tension spring in preparation for the next operating cycle.
  • the distance between the reversing eyelets of the short-period store with respect to an increase or reduction of the thread loop formed in the short-period store may be adjusted so that the storage capacity may be adapted to the rhythmic thread consumption which depends on the size of the pattern.
  • the spacer for weft threads supplied in the warp direction is provided with thread guides disposed at a distance of 5 to mm, thus providing the necessary freedom for reliable, individual control of the threads.
  • the heald eyes of the harness associated with the colored weft threads are larger than the heald eyes associated with the ground warp. This reduces the friction within the heald eyes of the weft threads which are drawn off in jerked manner.
  • a further special feature of the loom of the present invention is due to the fact that the harness cords associated with the colored weft threads have a higher tensile or weight loading than the remaining harness cords, the lower ends of the first-mentioned harness cords being secured through tension springs to retaining means. This counteracts any excessive deflection of the harness cords due to jerky draw-off of the weft threads.
  • the front or rear edge of the harness board prefferably be provided with separate guides, preferably in the form of hooks, for the interchangeable accommodation of the harness cords which are associated with the working threads.
  • a Jacquard loom be provided with a griffe for controlling the lifters, the griffe being subdivided into an inner griffe associated with the ground warp threads and an outer griffe associated with the threads to be inserted, the working threads and the shuttle row change, the outer griffe being fixedly coupled to the reciprocating drive of the loom and being adapted to perform one stroke for each loom cycle and the inner griffe being separately controllable.
  • the outer griffe is mounted fixedly on a frame on which the inner griffe bears loosely, interlocking means actuated from the main loom shaft through a reduction transmission being associated with the inner griffe to retain it in its raised position during each second loom cycle.
  • the outer griffe it is possible for the outer griffe to comprise two sections which surround the inner griffe, the lifters for the threads to be inserted and the shuttle row change being associated with one section and the lifters for the working threads being associated with the other section.
  • the loom drive comprises a gearwheel which is mounted on the main shaft and is adapted to mesh with a gearwheel having twice the number of teeth, both gearwheels having a separate push-rod connected thereto, the free ends of which are hingedly joined to each other by means of a link, and the pivoting lever for supporting the slay is hinged approximately on the longitudinal middle of that link.
  • FIGS. la, lb, 1c and 1d illustrate, in four successive working stages, the weaving of a ribbon by the insertion method, a shuttle thread inserting a thread supplied in the warp direction in the form of a double weft thread over the entire width of the ribbon;
  • FIGS. 2a, 2b and 2c illustrate the weaving of a threecolored ribbon by means of two shuttles using three differently colored threads for the weft and utilizing two working threads, in which FIG. 2a is the reverse side of the cloth, FIG. 2b is the facing side of the cloth having a smaller number of threads in the ground warp compared with FIG. 2a and being shown to a reduced scale, and FIG. 20 is a section along line IIc-Hc of FIG. 217;
  • FIG. 3 illustrates the weaving of a nine-colored ribbon, woven in the exemplified embodiment by means of a four-shuttle loom
  • FIG. 4 shows, partially in diagrammatic form, a Jacquard loom with different additional apparatus and modifications for performing the weaving method according to the invention
  • FIG. 5 shows, in simplified and perspective view, one embodiment of the griffe according to the invention
  • FIG. 6 is a diagrammatic view showing an embodiment for the loom slay drive according to the invention.
  • FIGS. 7 to 10 show a pluralith of successive operating positions of the slay drive according to FIG. 6.
  • FIGS. 1a, 1b, 1c and 1d show, in four successive working steps, insertion weaving.
  • a thread 2 is supplied in the warp direction adjacent to the ground warp 1.
  • the shuttle picks the shuttle thread 3 from the left into the open shed (FIG. 1a), whereupon the thread 2 is lowered (FIG. lb) so that the shuttle thread 3 surrounds the thread 2 during its return and inserts it as a double weft thread into the open shed (FIG. 10).
  • the front reed 4 beats up the thread 2 which is picked as a double weft, whereupon the shed is changed in the ground warp and the picking operation is repeated.
  • FIGS. 2a, 2b and 2c show a three-colored ribbon produced completely in accordance with the method of insertion weaving.
  • the ribbon is preferably woven with its reverse side (FIG. 2a) uppermost.
  • the weft thread 15 7 being drawn by the shuttle 12 or its shuttle thread 16 over the entire ribbon width for forming the ground, while the weft threads 13, 14 are inserted by the shuttle 11 or its shuttle thread 17 into the middle ribbon zone between the working threads 181/182 and 191/192 which operate in pairs and in opposition to each other.
  • the weft threads l3, l4 reciprocate for a certain distance (or are interlocked) on the facing side (FIG. 2b) of the ribbon or on the reverse side of the ribbon as far as their reversing positions in the zone of the working threads 181/182 and 191/192.
  • the relatively thin shuttle thread 17 extends in the finished ribbon alongside the working threads 181/182.
  • the shuttle thread 17 is actually coiled around the working threads 181/182.
  • the other shuttle thread 16 extends in the same manner, also in the warp direction, in the finished ribbon so that the shuttle threads are consumed only in the same length as the length of the ribbon that is being produced. All remaining threads of the ribbon are supplied in the warp direction and, thus, may be drawn off from large supply reels.
  • FIG. 3 illustrates a nine-colored ribbon with the ground color I and the colored figures 11 to 1X.
  • the method of production indicated diagrammatically, operates with four shuttles 31, 32, 33 and 34, six pairs of working threads 351-356, and nine differently colored threads in the thread group 36.
  • the threads of the thread group 36 are provided with the same Roman numerals as the associated color figures or the ground I.
  • the weft threads to be inserted by the shuttles are marked therein in brackets and the weft threads I to IX, reversed on the pairs of working threads, are also marked in brackets.
  • the distribution of the reversing positions of the different colored weft threads of the thread group 36 over the width of the ribbon is illustrated on the folded-back part of the ribbon, this method improving the appearance of the reverse side of the cloth and producing a relatively even ribbon.
  • the ground weft l is reversed on the externally disposed threads of the ground warp.
  • the threads of the shuttles 31, 32, 33 and 34 extend (in a manner not shown) in the finished ribbon in the aforementioned sequence and are coiled around the right-hand outer ground warp thread and the pairs of working threads 354, 355 and 356.
  • FIG 4 shows, in diagrammatic form, a Jacquard loom for producing multi-colored ribbons as, for example, the ribbon illustrated in FIG. 3.
  • the ground warp 40 is supplied in the usual manner to the weaving position 41 while being controlled by a harness 42.
  • the working threads 43, 44 are entrained with the ground warp 40, the harness cords 45 of these working threads being passed through hook guides 47 which are disposed at the front edge of the harness board 46 to permit resetting of the working threads in simple manner and enabling the working threads to be beaten up at the same position in the Jacquard card.
  • the threads used as weft in the weaving method according to the invention are supplied as a thread group 48 laterally adjacent to the ground warp 40 to the weaving position 41.
  • the threads of the thread group 48 are drawn off from relatively large supply reels 49 (only one of these is shown in the drawing) and extend over individual brakes 50 and over individual shortperiod stores 51 to a spacer 52, the guide elements 53 of which provide a spacing of approximately 5 to 10 mm between the individual threads 48.
  • the spacer 52 is referred to hereinafter as the thread spacing distributor.
  • Each short-period store 51 comprises a reversing eye 55, disposed on a frontal rod 54 and an eye 56 which is rearwardly disposed relative to the former and is mounted on a tension spring 57 which acts against the thread draw-off direction. Due to the presence of the reversing eyes 55, 56, the thread 48 forms a loop in the short-period store 51.
  • the tension spring 57 permits jerky pull-off of the thread 48 and subsequently ensures the formation of a thread loop in the shortperiod store so that a sufficient thread supply length is available in the short-period store 51 for each weaving cycle.
  • the rod 54 with the frontal reversing eyes is adjustable relative to the tension spring 57 together with its reversing eye 56, namely in the sense of increasing or decreasing the thread loop formed in the short-period store so that the store capacity may be adapted to the thread consumption of each weaving cycle.
  • the threads 48 extend from the thread spacing distributor 52 through heald eyes 58 of the harness 42.
  • the heald eyes 58 are relatively large in order to reduce friction of the threads in said eyes.
  • the harness cords 59 with the heald eyes 58 are tied at their lower ends by means of tension springs 60 to a stationary holder 61 to'ensure vertical orientation of the harness cords 59 despite the jerky draw-off of the threads 48.
  • the harness cords may also be loaded by weights to an increasing extent instead of being tied by means of tension springs 60.
  • FIG. 4 shows a slay with only one shuttle, but a slay with a plurality of shuttles must be used for performing the present method.
  • the thread exit 63 of the shuttle 62 is laterally offset towards the end of the shuttle bobbin so that almost the entire interior of the shuttle is available for accommodating and elongating the tensioning spring 64 for the shuttle thread. This ensures in a simple manner that the shuttle thread has sufficient tension, even during the return motion of the shuttle during which the weft thread is inserted.
  • FIG. shows a two-part griffe 65, which may be exchanged for the griffe of conventional Jacquard ribbon looms, and having a frame 66 which is mounted on a bar 67 coupled to the reciprocating drive 68 of the Jacquard ribbon loom.
  • the griffe 65 is subdivided into an outer griffe having the two sections 69 and 70 and into an inner griffe 71.
  • the sections 69, 70 of the outer griffe are rigidly mounted on the frame 66 and are, therefore, raised and lowered in the direction of the arrow A with each loom cycle.
  • the inner griffe 71 is provided with lateral arms 72 by means of which it bears loosely on the frame 66.
  • the interlocking levers 73 reach below the ends of the arm 72 so that the inner griffe 71 cannot participate in the downward motion of the frame 66.
  • the interlocking levers 73 disposed on each side of the inner griffe 71, are rigidly mounted on a rod 75, supported in the frame 74, the front ends of rod 75 supporting a rigidly mounted pivoting lever 76.
  • Tension springs 77 which bias the interlocking levers 73 inwardly in order to interlock the inner griffe 71, act on the pivoting levers 76.
  • the pivoting motion of the parts 73, 75, 76 is limited by the stop abutment 78.
  • a ram 79 with the ram plate 80 reaches below the free ends of the pivoting levers 76.
  • the ram 79 is vertically reciprocated by a disc cam 81 against the force exerted by the spring 77.
  • the disc cam 81 is mounted on a shaft 82 which is coupled through a 1:2 reduction transmission 83 to the main shaft 84 of the loom.
  • the method of operation of the above described apparatus is as follows.
  • the lifters of the ground warp threads are associated with the inner griffe 71 while the lifters of the working threads are associated with the section 69 of the outer griffe, and the lifters for the threads to be drawn in and for the shuttle row interchange are associated with the section 70 of the outer griffe.
  • the control system for unlocking the inner griffe is adjusted so that the inner griffe is unlocked after a shuttle pass which results in a double weft thread being inserted so that during this operating cycle both the inner and outer griffe are lowered and once again raised by the reciprocating drive 68.
  • the interlocking levers 73 reach below the arms 72 and retain the inner griffe 71 at the top for the next operating cycle of the loom. Accordingly, the griffe 71 performs a reciprocating motion only for every second operating cycle, i.e., for every second rotation of the main shaft 84, while it retains the ground warp threads in the open shed position during the intermediate operating cycles.
  • the special quadrilateral link comprises a gearwheel 88, meshing with a gearwheel 89 with twice the number of teeth and being disposed on the main shaft 84.
  • the external end face of each of the two gearwheels is provided with a separate crankpin, one of which is hinged to the push-rod 87 and the other of which is hinged to the'push-rod 90.
  • the free ends of the push-rods 87, 90 are coupled to each other by means of a link 91.
  • the pivoting lever 86 which supports the slay 85 is hinged approximately to the longitudinal middle 92 of the link 91.
  • FIG. 7 shows the special quadrilateral linkage in a position in which the gearwheel-side crankpins of both push-rods 87, 90 are in their frontal position and the slay is correspondingly moved into the frontal position.
  • both push-rods 87,90 once again move forwardly in the same sense into the position illustrated in FIG. 7 so that the slay beats up the weft, namely the inserted double weft, onto the edge of the cloth only with every second operating cycle of the loom.
  • a weaving method for the production of multicolored ribbons in any desired geometrical figures or color patterns on a shuttle-type Jacquard loom having at least two replaceable shuttles, each carrying a thread package comprising:

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US00186266A 1970-10-21 1971-10-04 Weaving method for the production of multi-colored ribbons and associated shuttle-type jaquard ribbon looms Expired - Lifetime US3749139A (en)

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Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4004617A (en) * 1974-11-26 1977-01-25 J. P. Stevens & Co., Inc. Method for forming a double catch thread narrow weave
US4007763A (en) * 1974-03-21 1977-02-15 Thomas French & Sons Limited Narrow fabrics
EP1348789A1 (de) * 2002-03-28 2003-10-01 Berliner Stoffdruckerei GmbH Fahne aus einem textilen Flächengebilde
US20040065380A1 (en) * 2001-02-20 2004-04-08 Francisco Speich Patterned fabric and a method for the production thereof
US20040129333A1 (en) * 2003-01-07 2004-07-08 Hiram Samel Method for weaving floor coverings
US20090272455A1 (en) * 2005-12-23 2009-11-05 Francisco Speich Ribbon Needle Loom for Manufacturing a Strip, in Particular a Label Strip, Having a Woven-In Conductive Thread, in Particular Antenna Thread
USD606321S1 (en) * 2008-05-09 2009-12-22 Mehmet Abdullah Sencopur Decorative yarn
USD609016S1 (en) * 2008-05-09 2010-02-02 Yunteks Tekstil Sanayi Veticaret Limited Sirketi Decorative yarn

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4007763A (en) * 1974-03-21 1977-02-15 Thomas French & Sons Limited Narrow fabrics
US4004617A (en) * 1974-11-26 1977-01-25 J. P. Stevens & Co., Inc. Method for forming a double catch thread narrow weave
US4073320A (en) * 1974-11-26 1978-02-14 J.P. Stevens & Co., Inc. Double catch thread narrow weave fabric
US4077437A (en) * 1974-11-26 1978-03-07 J. P. Stevens Co., Inc. Apparatus for forming a double catch thread narrow weave
US20040065380A1 (en) * 2001-02-20 2004-04-08 Francisco Speich Patterned fabric and a method for the production thereof
US20050241719A1 (en) * 2001-02-20 2005-11-03 Brevitex Etablissement Pour L'exploitation De Brevets Textiles Patterned fabric and a method for the production thereof
US6994120B2 (en) * 2001-02-20 2006-02-07 Brevitex Etablissement Pour L' Exploitation De Brevets Textiles Patterned fabric and a method for the production thereof
EP1348789A1 (de) * 2002-03-28 2003-10-01 Berliner Stoffdruckerei GmbH Fahne aus einem textilen Flächengebilde
US20040129333A1 (en) * 2003-01-07 2004-07-08 Hiram Samel Method for weaving floor coverings
US20090272455A1 (en) * 2005-12-23 2009-11-05 Francisco Speich Ribbon Needle Loom for Manufacturing a Strip, in Particular a Label Strip, Having a Woven-In Conductive Thread, in Particular Antenna Thread
USD606321S1 (en) * 2008-05-09 2009-12-22 Mehmet Abdullah Sencopur Decorative yarn
USD609016S1 (en) * 2008-05-09 2010-02-02 Yunteks Tekstil Sanayi Veticaret Limited Sirketi Decorative yarn

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DE2051572B2 (de) 1973-03-22
AT316457B (de) 1974-07-10
DE2051572A1 (de) 1972-05-10
DE2051572C3 (de) 1973-10-11

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