US2013110A - Brassiere - Google Patents

Description

Sept. Y 3, 1935. w. ROSENTHAL BRASSIERE Original Fi led Jail. 10, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR vmum RuscuruAL l- ATTORNE. s

Sefit. 3, 1935. w ROSENTHAL 2,013,110

BRAssIERE Original Filed Jan. 10, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR Wnum Rosum-uu.

BY g a (a i! A TORNE S Patented Sept. 3, 1935 6 2,613,119

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Maiden Form Brassiere 00., Inc, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Original applications January 10, 1933, Serial No. 650,966 and March 17, 1933, Serial No. 661,421. Divided and this application June 3, 1933, Serial No. 674,128

Claims. (01. 66176) This invention relates to a brassiere of knitted 'ets cut from the original knitted material and fabric in which the pockets for the. bust are free stretched upon the frame of Fig. 2; of seams, as well as to breast receiving pockets. Fig. 4 illustrates diagrammatically one manner I This application is a division of my copending in which the stretched fabric may be cut to sep- 5 applicationsserial No. 650,966, filed January 10, arate the portions which are used to form the 5 1933, Pat. No. 1,988,516, and No. 661,421, filed respective pockets of the brassire; March 17, 1933, Pat. No. 1,988,517, and the bras- Fig. 5 shows one form of a completed brassire sires thereof are made by the improved methods and the manner in which the pocket pieces A are of making such brassieres disclosed in said 00- combined with the rest of the brassiere construcpending-applications. tion; and

As disclosed by such applications, the methods Fig. 6 shows another form of completed brascontemplatedaresuchthat the brassire may be sire and the manner in which the pockets ay made of pocketswhich may be shaped as desired, be combined withthe rest of the brassiere conirrespective of their original shape as knit, and struction.

of course so shaped as to give to said pockets de- As pointed out in my copending applications sired form and characteristics not found in the for United States Letters Patent, Serial No. original knitted fabric. 650,966, filed January 10, 1933, and No. 661,421

The fabric from which the brassiere of this fi d March 1933, knitted fabric Produced y invention may be made can be knitted on a circ r ular knit in up to h m f my i v n i n cular knitting machine of the type which prohad never been practical for brassieres for the 20 duces what is known as gussets, that is to say reason that the knit seamless pockets could not pockets which are knit into the fabric during be given the proper shape and the elasticity and the knitting operation without any seams such as the other characteristics of the fabric in its origwould be required in order to form pockets in fiat a knitted fOrm, allowed the p ets o t etch knitted fabric, and to lose whatever shape they had.

Accordingly, one of the objects of this invention y the invention Of y applications ove menis the creation .of a, novel seamless breast suptioned I pointed out 110W I overcame these defects porting pocket. and produced methods and apparatus whereby I Another object of this invention is the creation can p e a b a e of knitted fabric With of a novel brassirehaving seamless pockets. Seamless pockets of the Size and Shapc des red, .30

Another object of this invention is the creairrespective their Original pe, d Wh ch tion of a novel brassiere having seamless pockets would retain their Shape thereafter- Such p made of knitted fabric'formed t give th d ets being seamless all possibility of irritation of sired breast receiving and supporting configurathe wearers Skin accordingly v ated.

tion, l By the present application which is a division These and many other objects are secured by of 651611 of myabove t on op d a p th i ti hereinafter disdosed, cations I intend to disclose the brassiere pro- ,This invent-ion resides Substantially in the duced as a result of practising the method of said combination, construction, arrangement and relall-31311035510115 the therein disclosedative location of parts, an as will appear more Turning to Fig. 1, it will be noted that a piece 40 fully hereinafter, of knit unprocessed material is shown which has Referring to the drawingsin which the Same two pockets l and 2 which consist of excess seamreference numerals will be used throughout the 1 g farmed during the kmttmg? This several views to indicate the same or similar no pm me as descnbed Wlth parts integral seamless pockets of irregular conlcal Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic illustration of a piece igi z g il g: 3 3 a gz igg t g gfi of fabric knit on a circular knitting machine cluding the two similar pockets fi cut iggxgi ggg l m ithelr ongmal Irregular edges are sewn to prevent ravelling and the fabric is stretched over the frame 3 as she n in Fig. 2 is a view of one form of my novel stretch- W Fig. 3, which frame may be made of any suit e frame Over whlch the fabrlc 1S Stretched able material, and which has the outline desired 8 the Process whereby it iS given its fi for the pockets of the finished brassire found and cha in itsupper edge 4. For this purpose I have 3 illustrates diagrammatically two DOCK? foundit desirable to construct and form my frames as shown in myabove identified copend ing applications, such for example as the frame shown in Fig. 2 hereof which is one of the forms disclosed in said copending applications. I provide the frame employed withserrated strips 5 running longitudinally of and parallel to the base thereof. The serrations on these strips are outwardly projecting and are adapted to engage with the fabric that is stretched on the frame and to hold said fabric in stretched condition.

In Fig. 2 these serrated strips 5 are secured to an adjustable cross rod 6 which is secured to the vertical sides I of the frame 3 at different heights by means of screws E3. Each of the vertical sides 7 is provided with a plurality of threaded holes 8 disposed over one another into a given set of which the screws i3 may be screwed. To insure firm contact between the flat surfaces of sides I and the flat surface of rod 8 the flat ends of cross rod 6 are slightly joggled as shown atli' to provide feet 5 l. The frame 3 is also provided as shown at its midlength with an integral ver- 'tical cross member 9 which also has adjacent the end thereof which joins the base of frame 3 a plurality of threaded holes it disposed over one another. So that cross rod 6 may be maintained in alignment with the base of frame 3 it is besides the joggling at each end thereof also joggled at its midlength as shown at E2, and may at this point be secured by another one of the screws l3 to the appropriate hole 56 in member '9. The cross rod E3 is, of course, provided with the necessary holes at each foot H, and in the center to permit of the passage of the necessary screws l3 therethrough and into the appropriate holes 8 in sides I and hole In in member 9. Thus by securing screws l3 into a selected set of holes 8, it, the height of cross rod 5 may within the limits of the holes, be adjusted as desired in a vertical direction.

In a like manner frame 3 is provided at upper edge 4, adjacent to and on each side of cross member 9, with a plurality of holes I4, horizontally disposed one next to the other. Cross member 9 is also provided near its lower end and just above the uppermost hole l therein with the longitudinally extending horizontal arms I5, each of which is also provided with a plurality of holes I horizontally disposed one next to the other. Secured by screws E3 to frame 3 and to each of arms [5 are vertical rods 16 which run parallel to member 9, are adjustable horizontally and also carry serrated strips ll. As is apparent these vertical rods l5, by selectively screwing screws 18 into selected holes l4, l5 may be horizontally adjusted so that said rods within the limits of the holes may be disposed in any predesired relation with respect to each other and/ or with respect to cross member 9.

Carried by the uppermost end of each of rods I5 are the pin like hooks 49 which are adapted to engage and hold the material in stretched condition. Similarly the frame 3 at the ends of upper edge 4 is provided with the hooks 29 for receiving and holding the material when stretched on the frame. By providing the serrated strips 5 and I! on the respective rods 6 and Iii, which rods are adjustable as just pointed out, I am able to adjustably arrange for pre determined amount of stretching at one time of either both pockets or a single pocket.

To insure a firm holding of the material I also provide adjacent to and secured by screw 2! at the hole immediately above that to which cross rod 6 is secured on cross member 9, the element 2| which is provided with a plurality of prongs. This member will aid in receiving and holding opposed portions of the pocket material in stretched condition under tension at the mid length point along and just above the base of frame 3. In place of this construction, which may be observed in Fig. 2, I may substitute and use with equal effect any other suitable holding member for this purpose. Thus, as disclosed in my copending application Serial No. 661,421, filed March 17, 1933, I may employ, instead of a single element 2| disposed on one side of cross member 9, an arrangement of two elements disposed on opposed sides of member 9 and secured thereto by any suitable securing means. This two element construction would of course be provided with holding prongs similar to those of the single element construction shown in Fig. 2, so that the same desired effect may be procured thereby without the necessity of having the p gs of different lengths depending on whether they are to be bent backward or forward. I

The circular knit fabric comprising either two unformed pockets as shown in Fig. 1, or a single unformed pocket as the case may be, is stretched over the frame 3, as shown in Fig. 3, and the material at the front and back of the frame caught on the serrations, prongs, etc. Screws !3 are unscrewed and cross rod 6 is pulled down until the fabric is firmly stretched over the frame 3 to the desired degree with the pockets or pocket taking the outline of the upper edge 4 thereof. Cross rod 6 is then secured with the fabric in this stretched condition by screwing screws l3 into the apppropriate set of holes 8, 10. In doing this, of course, the fabric is caught on the pins ill, at, as well as on the prongs of the member 2! or other central holding means, as the case may be, as well as by the appropriate serrated strips 5 and ii. In the event that two unformed pockets are being stretched all of these holding devices are brought into play. In the event, however, that but one pocket is being stretched, then but one-half of the frame either right or left need be used. It will, of course, be understood that after the rods 6 and it have once been adjusted as desired the frame may be repeatedly used without further adjustment for other pieces of fabric to be successively treated. When the fabric is stretched,

as above pointed out, the desired outline is given to the pockets and they are flattened as required so that the material may thereafter, when subsequently removed from the frame, be conveniently cut and otherwise practically commercially treated and handled. The fabric thus stretched is steamed or otherwise heat treated and then permitted to cool and dry upon the frame.

It will also be understood that due to the fact that the material after blocking is flattened that a number of pockets after removal from the frame can be stacked and simultaneously and uniformly cut as desired, thus reducing manufacturing time and expense. When it is removed it will be found the pockets have lost their original shape and outline and have permanently taken the outline of edge 4 of the frame and also, before being spread apart, instead of being generally conical in shape, are exceedingly flat, as shown in Fig. 3. It will be found that the pockets will retain this outline and flatness throughout the life of the brassiere and will not revert to the original shape.

After the fabric has been steamed, set and removed from the frame the individual pockets selectively arranged for.

cutting along the lines of cut 22 and 23 for both sides or 26, 25 and 25' for one side and 26 and fl for the other side, to produce pockets either of the type 26 or 29 (see Figs. 5 and 6) as the may be; Thus; by changing the manner of cutting the material after treatment on the frame, the final outline of the pocket may be When out the sidesof the pockets are spread apart, and if the pockets arenot already secured together, they may be sewn together and connected to the rest of the bra-ssiere to form the completed article shown inFig; 5 or 6; If desired'the pockets after being spread apart may be joined together and attached to the body of a complete womans undergarment, chemise, or foundation garment, or may be as stated made up into a brassire which in turn may be secured to other garments for the lower limbs of the wearer to form combination garments.

It will, of course, be understood at this point that in many instances it may be found desirable to use, instead of a skeleton framework a stretching form of solid material provided with a multiplicity of holes, which will permit of steam treatment of the material stretched on that form, and through which steam or hot air used for drying purposes may be readily passed transversely thereof to permit of the appropriate treatment of the material stretched thereover. A frame of this type, as well as a frame comprised of two partially curved sheets joined together along the upper edge 4 have been shown in my copending application Serial No. 661,421 filed March 17, 1933.

It may also be found desirable to use in place of the skeleton framework shown in Fig. '2 hereof a frame such as that shown in my copending application Serial No. 650,966, filed January 10, 1933. Suchbeing the case it is of course to be understood that the pockets for the brassire of the present application may be satisfactorily made on any one of these different types of frames, and accordingly I do not intend the present application to be limited to brassieres having pockets made only on the frame shown in Fig. 2. Employing however either the frame of Fig. 2 or any one of those shown in my above identified copending applications, I am able to convert a fabric which is utterly useless for brassieres into a very useful type of fabric for that purpose and obtain a brassiere having seamless pockets of any desired outline by appropriate treatment and cutting, irrespective of their shape and outline in the fabric as originally out;

Since the original size and shape of the pockets have no effect within wide limits upon the size and shape of the finished pockets, I am able to produce a large variety of pocket sizes and shapes from the identical fabric, thus greatly simplifying and reducing the cost of manufacture.

The pockets thus shown, shaped and appropriately cut, may after blocking have the fiat sides thereof separated to give depth thereto as above stated, and be incorporated in any desired brassiere construction such as that shown in Fig. In Fig. 5 the brassiere consists of two pockets 28 attached to each other as shown at 38. The free ends of the pockets are attached to additional fabric back bands 3! and 32. One of these back bands, to wit 32, terminates in a piece of elastic 33, the free end of which is secured to the free end of back band 3! by cooperating hooks and eyes as at 3%.

The usual shoulder straps 35 may of course also be provided. As shown, these shoulder straps if desired may also be provided with elastic ele- I merits 36 interposed in the length thereof near the end thereof so as to lend to said shoulder straps a certain degree of adjustability. In Fig. 6

thepockets 253 are obtained by cutting the fabric 7 on the front of the frames along the lines 2d,?2ii

and 25', and that on the back of the frames along the lines 26 and 2?. The pockets formed, if not alreadysecured together may be secured along the line 3f. Secured to thesepockets along the bottom edges thereof is a strip 38 which extends past the pocket around the wearers body and replaces the usual back bands. Secured to each free end of the strips are elastic elements 39 which are adapted to be joined together at the free ends thereof by tabs ifl carrying the necessary hook and eye. The embodiment also is provided with shoulder straps 335 and the elastic elements 36 so as to give a certain degree of adjustability to the shoulder straps. In the embodiment shown in Fig. 6 the elimination of the usual back bands presents a brassiere of lighter, more dainty and fragile construction. The proportions of the respective brassiere will, of course, be determined by the dimensions of the different elements, as well as by the shapes and sizes to be produced, whereas the size, shape and outline of the pockets themselves are determined by the outline and dimensions of the particular stretching frame described above. I

It will be understood, of course, that the desired pockets may be produced either individually or in pairs, as well as in numerous other ways within the scope of the invention.

It will also be understood that variationsin the construction of the different stretching frames may be made in a number of possible directions so that the same general desired results may be obtained, and that the frames may with equal success possibly be used for purposes other than those herein described. Moreover, I am of course aware that many changes in the details of construction and relative arrangement of parts, as well as in the steps, sequence or combination of steps may readily suggest themselves to those skilled in the art, and I do not, therefore desire to be limited to the exact details disclosed by way of illustration, but rather to the scope and spirit of the invention as I define it in the appended claims.

What I seek to secure by United States Letters Patent is:

1. A flat blocked seamless breast receiving pocket adapted to have the sides thereof spread apart for breast reception.

2. A brassiere provided with fiat blocked seamless pockets adapted to be spread apart to receive the breasts.

3. A brassiere provided with flat blocked seamless pockets.

4. A brassierecomprising a pair of fiat blocked joined seamless breast receiving pockets formed from a knitted fabric having pockets therein of a shape other than that of the finished pockets, said pockets being adapted to be spread apart for breast reception, back bands. secured to the free ends of said pockets, means for joining the free ends of said back bands together, and means for supporting the brassiere on the wearers shoulders.

5. A brassiere comprising a pair of flat blocked joined seamless breast receiving pockets formed from a knitted fabric having pockets therein of a shape other than that of the finished pockets, said pockets being adapted to be spread apart for breast reception, a waist band secured to said pockets along their lower edge and encircling the body of the wearer, means for securing the free ends of the Waist bands together, and means for supporting the brassiere on the Wearers shoulders.

6. The brassiere recited in claim 4, characterized in that the pockets are formed from the knitted fabric after processing thereof by cutting each pocket of said knitted fabric along two lines of cut and separating the sides of the knitted fabric.

7. The brassiere recited in claim 5, characterized in that the pockets are formed from the knitted fabric after processing thereof by cutting each pocket of said knitted fabric along five lines of cut and separating the sides of the knitted fabric.

8. A flat blocked seamless breast receiving pocket adapted to have the sides thereof spread 10 apart for breast reception, said pocket being adapted. to incorporation into an undergarment.

WILLIAM ROSEN'I'HAL.

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