TW201009148A - Fabric and textile products - Google Patents
Fabric and textile products Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- TW201009148A TW201009148A TW098105483A TW98105483A TW201009148A TW 201009148 A TW201009148 A TW 201009148A TW 098105483 A TW098105483 A TW 098105483A TW 98105483 A TW98105483 A TW 98105483A TW 201009148 A TW201009148 A TW 201009148A
- Authority
- TW
- Taiwan
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- fiber
- cloth
- crimped
- fibers
- Prior art date
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 746
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 title abstract 2
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 732
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 289
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 243
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 claims description 152
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 147
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 127
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 claims description 109
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 103
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 97
- 239000004721 Polyphenylene oxide Substances 0.000 claims description 92
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 claims description 92
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 claims description 83
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 claims description 80
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 77
- MHZGKXUYDGKKIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decylamine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCN MHZGKXUYDGKKIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 71
- 210000004177 elastic tissue Anatomy 0.000 claims description 68
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims description 63
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims description 63
- 230000002829 reductive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 63
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 44
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 21
- MMINFSMURORWKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3,6-dioxabicyclo[6.2.2]dodeca-1(10),8,11-triene-2,7-dione Chemical group O=C1OCCOC(=O)C2=CC=C1C=C2 MMINFSMURORWKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- LZFNKJKBRGFWDU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3,6-dioxabicyclo[6.3.1]dodeca-1(12),8,10-triene-2,7-dione Chemical compound O=C1OCCOC(=O)C2=CC=CC1=C2 LZFNKJKBRGFWDU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000005304 joining Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 claims description 13
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 10
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 claims description 9
- 230000036961 partial effect Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims description 6
- 240000002853 Nelumbo nucifera Species 0.000 claims 1
- 235000006508 Nelumbo nucifera Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- 235000006510 Nelumbo pentapetala Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- 229920000768 polyamine Polymers 0.000 description 185
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 171
- -1 isophthalic acid ethylene diester Chemical class 0.000 description 158
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 101
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 81
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical compound C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 80
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Terephthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 72
- IISBACLAFKSPIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N bisphenol A Chemical compound C=1C=C(O)C=CC=1C(C)(C)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 IISBACLAFKSPIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 68
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 66
- 239000007789 gas Substances 0.000 description 65
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 64
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 description 60
- 229930185605 Bisphenol Natural products 0.000 description 57
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 50
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 48
- 208000008454 Hyperhidrosis Diseases 0.000 description 47
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 46
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 46
- 230000035900 sweating Effects 0.000 description 45
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 description 40
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 40
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 40
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 35
- JBKVHLHDHHXQEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N epsilon-caprolactam Chemical compound O=C1CCCCCN1 JBKVHLHDHHXQEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 34
- VPWNQTHUCYMVMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4,4'-sulfonyldiphenol Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=CC=C1S(=O)(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 VPWNQTHUCYMVMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 32
- 229920002292 Nylon 6 Polymers 0.000 description 31
- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 description 29
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 28
- 150000002009 diols Chemical class 0.000 description 28
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- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 27
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 25
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 25
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 24
- 150000004985 diamines Chemical class 0.000 description 24
- 125000001931 aliphatic group Chemical group 0.000 description 23
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 23
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 22
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 22
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 22
- KXDHJXZQYSOELW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbamic acid Chemical compound NC(O)=O KXDHJXZQYSOELW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 21
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 21
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 20
- BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 20
- LWBHHRRTOZQPDM-UHFFFAOYSA-N undecanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O LWBHHRRTOZQPDM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 20
- ZFACJPAPCXRZMQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N phthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(O)=O.OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(O)=O ZFACJPAPCXRZMQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 19
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 19
- MUBZPKHOEPUJKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oxalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(O)=O MUBZPKHOEPUJKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- ATUOYWHBWRKTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propane Chemical compound CCC ATUOYWHBWRKTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 description 18
- PXKLMJQFEQBVLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N bisphenol F Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=CC=C1CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 PXKLMJQFEQBVLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- XNGIFLGASWRNHJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N o-dicarboxybenzene Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(O)=O XNGIFLGASWRNHJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- IHWDSEPNZDYMNF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1H-indol-2-amine Chemical group C1=CC=C2NC(N)=CC2=C1 IHWDSEPNZDYMNF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 17
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 17
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 17
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 17
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 17
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 17
- PBLZLIFKVPJDCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-aminododecanoic acid Chemical compound NCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O PBLZLIFKVPJDCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 16
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 16
- VZXTWGWHSMCWGA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diamine Chemical compound NC1=NC=NC(N)=N1 VZXTWGWHSMCWGA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 15
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 15
- KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N naphthalene-1,2-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound C1=CC=CC2=C(C(O)=O)C(C(=O)O)=CC=C21 KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 15
- 230000009257 reactivity Effects 0.000 description 15
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 15
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 15
- 229920002302 Nylon 6,6 Polymers 0.000 description 14
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 14
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 description 14
- 238000009736 wetting Methods 0.000 description 14
- 238000007334 copolymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 13
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 13
- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 13
- 238000005481 NMR spectroscopy Methods 0.000 description 12
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- HEDRZPFGACZZDS-MICDWDOJSA-N Trichloro(2H)methane Chemical compound [2H]C(Cl)(Cl)Cl HEDRZPFGACZZDS-MICDWDOJSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 12
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 description 12
- 235000006708 antioxidants Nutrition 0.000 description 12
- VHRGRCVQAFMJIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N cadaverine Chemical compound NCCCCCN VHRGRCVQAFMJIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- NAQMVNRVTILPCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,6-diamine Chemical compound NCCCCCCN NAQMVNRVTILPCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- RLSSMJSEOOYNOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N m-cresol Chemical compound CC1=CC=CC(O)=C1 RLSSMJSEOOYNOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 239000012046 mixed solvent Substances 0.000 description 12
- WLJVNTCWHIRURA-UHFFFAOYSA-N pimelic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCC(O)=O WLJVNTCWHIRURA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- TYFQFVWCELRYAO-UHFFFAOYSA-N suberic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCC(O)=O TYFQFVWCELRYAO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 239000002250 absorbent Substances 0.000 description 11
- 125000002723 alicyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 11
- 229910052783 alkali metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 11
- WOZVHXUHUFLZGK-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethyl terephthalate Chemical compound COC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(=O)OC)C=C1 WOZVHXUHUFLZGK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 230000006870 function Effects 0.000 description 11
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 11
- 238000007151 ring opening polymerisation reaction Methods 0.000 description 11
- YXTFRJVQOWZDPP-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].OC(=O)C1=CC(C(O)=O)=CC(S([O-])(=O)=O)=C1 YXTFRJVQOWZDPP-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 11
- QPFMBZIOSGYJDE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,1,2,2-tetrachloroethane Chemical compound ClC(Cl)C(Cl)Cl QPFMBZIOSGYJDE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 238000006073 displacement reaction Methods 0.000 description 10
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- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 10
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- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
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- SNRUBQQJIBEYMU-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC SNRUBQQJIBEYMU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
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- XCSGHNKDXGYELG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenoxyethoxybenzene Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1OCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 XCSGHNKDXGYELG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- LLLVZDVNHNWSDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-methylidene-3,5-dioxabicyclo[5.2.2]undeca-1(9),7,10-triene-2,6-dione Chemical compound C1(C2=CC=C(C(=O)OC(=C)O1)C=C2)=O LLLVZDVNHNWSDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
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- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B17/00—Selection of special materials for underwear
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/02—Underwear
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2503/00—Domestic or personal
- D10B2503/04—Floor or wall coverings; Carpets
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2503/00—Domestic or personal
- D10B2503/06—Bed linen
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2505/00—Industrial
- D10B2505/08—Upholstery, mattresses
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
201009148 六、發明說明: 【發明所屬之技術領域】 .本發明係關於一種吸濕時布料之透氣性爲可逆地降低 之布料,以及使用該布料構成之纖維製品。 【先前技術】 藉由於吸濕時及乾燥時布料之空隙率爲可逆地變化而 Φ 可逆地變化透氣性之布料亦稱爲感濕布料,近幾年來已有 多種提案。例如,作爲吸濕時透氣性降低之布料,已提案 有使用聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分以並列型接合之複合纖維且 於吸濕時捲縮率得以降低(外觀長度變長)纖維之布料( 例如參見特開2006- 1 1 8062號公報)、或使用吸水可自我 伸長絲者(例如參見特開2005-060918號公報)等。 依據該等吸濕時透氣性降低之布料,使用該種布料作 爲衣服穿著時,藉由雨或雪落於衣服上之際衣服的透氣性 • 降低而可獲得提高保暖性、提高耐漏水性之效果。 ' 又本案申請人於特願2007-1 83224號中提案一種吸濕 • 時之捲縮率提高之捲縮纖維。 不過,以往於貼身襯衣或襯衫、泳衣等直接穿著於皮 膚上之衣料中,期望不會透明看到皮庸或內衣。然而,穿 著白色衣服時,於皮膚滲出汗、降雨導致衣服濡濕之情況 下,有易於變透明的問題。 相對於此,近幾年已有多種提案。例如特開2007-3 9 846號公報中,提案有藉由使用扁平剖面纖維,使纖維 201009148 間空隙降低而提高防透明性的方法。又,特開2005_ 32548 1號公報中,提案於鞘芯型之複合(conjugate)纖 維的芯部中混練入大量微粒子(氧化鈦),使纖維膠凝化 而提高防透明性的方法。又,於特開2007-63714號公報 中,藉由單絲纖度1.1 dtex以下的高多絲纖維,提高纖維 _ 的比表面積並增加光的亂反射而提高防透明性的方法。該 等對於防透明性雖具有某種程度的效果,但於濡濕時等空 氣的亂反射降低,有防透明性極度降低的問題,期望有更 _ 進一步改善。 又,於特開2006-1 1 2009號公報中,記載有使用與本 發明使用之捲縮纖維相反性能之吸濕時捲縮率降低(外觀 長度變長)捲縮纖維之發明。又,本發明人於特願2007-183 224號公報中,提案有吸濕時捲縮率提高之捲縮纖維。 再者,以往,合成纖維或天然纖維等所構成之立毛布 料已於廣泛用途被使用(參見例如特開2004-1 37659號公 報)。立毛布料由於保暖性優異,故已廣泛使用作爲衣料 © 用如外套或夾克等之外衣衣料、羊毛衛生衣或運動服等中 間穿著衣料、襯衫或內衣等內襯衣料等。又亦已廣泛使用 胃 於毛布等之寢具、椅子或沙發表面材料、地毯、汽車座椅 之睡衣寢具或家居用品。再者,立毛布料由於吸水性優異 ’故亦已廣泛使用於運動衫或毛織運動衫之運動衣料或尿 布或介護用被單等醫療衛生用途。 然而,該等立毛布料,即使濕度或水分變化立毛高度 通常亦爲固定,因此不具有如動物毛般可感受濕度或水分 -6- 201009148 而使毛腳長度隨之變化之自我調節機能。 另一方面,藉由吸濕時與乾燥時布料空隙率可逆地變 .化而使透氣性可逆地變化之布料亦稱爲感濕布料,近幾年 多有提案。例如作爲吸濕時透氣性降低之布料,提案有使 . 用以聚酯成分及聚醯胺成分接合成並列型之複合纖維,於 _ 吸濕時捲縮率降低(外觀長度變長)纖維之布料(例如參 考特開2006-1 1 8062號公報)或使用吸水可自我伸長絲者 φ (例如參考特開2005-06 0918號公報)。依據該等吸濕時 透氣性降低之布料,穿著使用此種布料之衣服時,於雨或 雪落於衣服上之際藉由衣服之透氣性降低而提高保暖性, 而獲得提高耐漏水性之效果。 又,本發明人於特願2007-1 83224號公報中,提案有 吸濕時捲縮率提高之捲縮纖維。 又,以往具有織編組織之表裏底組織部藉由連接部加 以連接爲三層構造之布料已多有提案(例如參見特開 φ 2002-23 5264號公報、特開平1 0- 1 854號公報、特開平5-148746號公報)。該種三層構造之布料由於緩衝性(彈性 ' 力)或保暖性優異,故已廣泛使用作爲緩衝材或保暖衣料 。其中,表裏之底組織部藉由連接絲連接之三層構造布料 ’由於連接部之纖維密度低故透氣性高,亦已廣泛用於易 於流汗之戶外運動用鞋材或背包材料(帆布背包)等。又 近幾年來,由於悶熱感少故亦使用作爲椅子或沙發之表面 材料、汽車座椅材料。 然而,該等三層構造之布料,即使濕度或水分產生變 201009148 化其厚度通常仍爲固定’並非可變化緩衝性及保暖性者。 另一方面,藉由吸濕時與乾燥時布料空隙率可逆地變 化而使透氣性可逆地變化之布料亦稱爲感濕布料,近幾年 . 多有提案。例如作爲吸濕時透氣性降低之布料,提案有使 用以聚酯成分及聚醯胺成分接合成並列型之複合纖維,於 _ 吸濕時捲縮率降低(外觀長度變長)纖維之布料(例如參 考特開2006-1 1 8062號公報)或使用吸水可自我伸長絲者 (例如參考特開2005-060918號公報)。依據該等吸濕時 透氣性降低之布料,穿著使用此種布料之衣服時,於雨或 雪落於衣服上之際藉由衣服之透氣性降低而提高保暖性, 而獲得提高耐漏水性之效果。 又,本發明人於特願2007-1 83224號公報中,提案有 吸濕時捲縮率提高之捲縮纖維。201009148 VI. Description of the Invention: [Technical Field of the Invention] The present invention relates to a fabric in which the gas permeability of the fabric is reversibly reduced when moisture is absorbed, and a fiber product comprising the fabric. [Prior Art] A fabric which reversibly changes the gas permeability due to a reversible change in the void ratio of the cloth during moisture absorption and drying is also called a moisture-sensitive fabric, and various proposals have been made in recent years. For example, as a fabric having a reduced gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption, a fabric in which a conjugate fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined in parallel is used and a crimp ratio is lowered (the length of the appearance becomes long) is absorbed. (See, for example, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. Hei. No. 2006- 1 8062), or a water-absorbable self-extending yarn (see, for example, JP-A-2005-060918). According to such a cloth having a reduced gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption, when the cloth is used as a clothes, the air permeability of the clothes can be lowered by rain or snow on the clothes, thereby improving warmth and water leakage resistance. effect. The applicant of the present application, in Japanese Patent Application No. 2007-1 83224, proposes a crimped fiber with an increased shrinkage rate. However, in the past, in shirts, shirts, swimwear, and the like which are directly worn on the skin, it is desirable not to see the skin or the underwear transparently. However, when wearing white clothes, there is a problem that it is liable to become transparent when the skin is sweaty and the clothes are wet due to rain. In contrast, there have been many proposals in recent years. For example, JP-A-2007-3 9 846 proposes a method of improving the transparency prevention by reducing the gap between the fibers 201009148 by using a flat-section fiber. In Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2005-32548, it is proposed to knead a large amount of fine particles (titanium oxide) in a core of a sheath-core type conjugate fiber to gel the fiber to improve the transparency. Further, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2007-63714 discloses a method of improving the anti-transparency by increasing the specific surface area of the fiber _ by a high-filament fiber having a single-filament fineness of 1.1 dtex or less and increasing the random reflection of light. Although it has a certain effect on the anti-transparency, the disordered reflection of air such as when it is wet is lowered, and there is a problem that the transparency is extremely lowered, and further improvement is desired. Further, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. Hei. No. 2006-1 1 2009 discloses an invention in which a crimped fiber having a reduced coefficient of shrinkage (longer appearance length) during moisture absorption using the opposite performance to the crimped fiber used in the present invention is described. In the Japanese Patent Publication No. 2007-183224, the present inventors propose a crimped fiber having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption. Furthermore, in the past, a woven fabric composed of synthetic fibers or natural fibers has been used for a wide range of applications (see, for example, JP-A-2004-1 37659). The wool fabric is widely used as a clothing material because of its excellent warmth retention. It is used for clothing, clothing, shirts, underwear, etc., such as outerwear, woolen clothes, or sportswear. Bedding, chair or sofa surface materials, carpets, car seat pajamas, or household items have also been widely used. Furthermore, the upright fabric has been widely used in sportswear such as sportswear or woven sweatshirts, diapers or sheets for care, and the like. However, these upright fabrics are usually fixed even if the humidity or moisture changes, and therefore do not have the self-regulating function of feeling the humidity or moisture like animal hair -6-201009148 and changing the length of the hair. On the other hand, a fabric which reversibly changes the porosity of the fabric during moisture absorption and drying and which reversibly changes the gas permeability is also called a moisture-sensitive fabric, and has been proposed in recent years. For example, as a fabric having a reduced gas permeability during moisture absorption, it is proposed to use a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined into a side-by-side type, and the crimp ratio is lowered (the length of the appearance becomes long) when the moisture is absorbed. A cloth (for example, JP-A-2006-1 18062) or a water-absorbable self-extending yarn φ (for example, refer to Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2005-06 0918). According to the cloth having reduced air permeability during the moisture absorption, when the clothes using the cloth are worn, when the rain or the snow falls on the clothes, the air permeability of the clothes is lowered to improve the warmth retention, and the leakage resistance is improved. effect. In the Japanese Patent Publication No. 2007-1 83224, the present inventors propose a crimped fiber having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption. In addition, there has been a proposal for a fabric having a three-layer structure in which the surface of the woven fabric has a three-layer structure. For example, see JP-A-2002-23 5264, JP-A-10-1854 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-148746). This three-layer fabric is widely used as a cushioning material or a warm clothing because of its cushioning property (elastic strength) or warmth retention. Among them, the bottom structure of the bottom and bottom of the structure is connected by a three-layer structure of the fabric. 'Because the fiber density of the joint is low, the air permeability is high, and it has been widely used for outdoor sports shoes or backpack materials (canvas backpacks) that are easy to sweat. )Wait. In recent years, it has been used as a surface material for a chair or a sofa, and a car seat material because of the low heat sensation. However, in the three-layer construction, even if the humidity or moisture is changed, the thickness is usually fixed, and the cushioning and warmth are not changed. On the other hand, a fabric which reversibly changes the air permeability by reversibly changing the void ratio of the fabric during moisture absorption and drying is also called a moisture-sensitive fabric, and has been proposed in recent years. For example, as a fabric having a reduced gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption, it is proposed to use a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined to form a side-by-side type, and when the moisture absorption is reduced, the crimp ratio is lowered (the length of the appearance becomes long). For example, refer to Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2006-1 1 8062, or a water-absorbable self-extending yarn (for example, refer to Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2005-060918). According to the cloth having reduced air permeability during the moisture absorption, when the clothes using the cloth are worn, when the rain or the snow falls on the clothes, the air permeability of the clothes is lowered to improve the warmth retention, and the leakage resistance is improved. effect. In the Japanese Patent Publication No. 2007-1 83224, the present inventors propose a crimped fiber having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption.
再者,以往由合成纖維或天然纖維等構成之布料,若 使用作爲運動衣物或內襯衣物等,有因自皮膚出汗而發生 暑熱感之問題。作爲消解因此種出汗產生之暑熱感之方法 G ,提案有於出汗時藉由提高布料之透氣性而使滯留在衣服 內之水分有效地排放出,另一方面,若於停止出汗時藉由 ^ 降低布料之透氣性而抑制因水分過度發散引起的寒氣,而 可長保服裝舒適之自我調節透氣性之布料(例如參見特開 2003-41462號公報、特開1 0-77544號公報、特開2002-1 80323號公報)。 該等歸根雖可藉由提高透氣性而抑制出汗時之暑熱感 ,但暑熱感之原因除了衣服內之悶熱(濕度上升)以外, -8 - 201009148 亦有因自身體發出的熱而感覺熱,故除了提高透氣性以外 降低保暖性(使布料厚度變薄)亦成爲有效手段。再者, 於兩件衣服重疊穿著之情況,由於提高透氣性有其困難, 故使布料厚度變薄爲更有效之手段。 然而,迄今尙未提出此種可自我調節厚度之布料。 又,特開2006- 1 1 2009號公報中,記載有與本發明使 用之捲縮纖維相反性能之吸濕時捲縮率降低(外觀長度變 長)捲縮纖維之發明。又,本發明人於特願2007-183224 號公報中,提案有吸濕時捲縮率提高之捲縮纖維。 再者,近幾年來,由於對個人美容及健康意識高漲, 慢跑或走路或肌肉訓練等之輕鬆進行的運動、或以游泳或 有氧運動或瑜珈爲代表之健康系列運動風氣正盛行。進行 該等運動時之衣服,要求有貼身以易於運動、可支撐身體 的活動、吸汗及速乾等。做爲材料則使用有將吸汗速乾性 優異的聚酯或尼龍與用以支持貼身感或支撐性之聚胺基甲 酸酯般之彈性絲予以交編織而成之布料(參考例如特開昭 63-249747號公報、特開昭63 -3 5 86 1號公報、特開平1-1048 64號公報、特開平3-19946號公報)。再者,亦提案 有將該等布料特殊縫製圖案,藉此提高更貼身性或運動支 撐機能之衣服(參考例如特開2005-290625號公報、特開 20 04-131903 號公報、特開 2004-3 3 9623 號公報)。 然而,該等係利用各種聚胺基甲酸酯纖維之伸縮性而 吻合於身體者’爲使對身體的貼身性良好’而製作比穿著 者身體尺寸更小的衣服’故衣服的穿脫變困難。 -9- 201009148 又,特開2006- 1 1 2009號公報中,記載有使用與本發 明使用之捲縮纖維相反性能之吸濕時捲縮率降低(外觀長 度較長)捲縮纖維之發明。又,本發明人於特願2007-183 224號公報中,提案有吸濕時捲縮率提高之捲縮纖維。 【發明內容】 〔發明欲解決之問題〕 本發明係有鑑於上述背景而完成者,本發明之第一目 _ 的係提供一種使用吸濕時之捲縮率獲得提高(外觀長度變 短)之纖維’且吸濕時透氣性降低之布料及使用該布料構 成之纖維製品。 又’本發明第二目的係提供一種藉由使吸濕時布料之 厚度部分變厚而提升防透明性之布料,及使用該布料構成 之纖維製品。In addition, in the case of a fabric composed of a synthetic fiber or a natural fiber, if it is used as a sportswear or a shirt, it may cause a heat sensation due to sweating from the skin. As a method G for digesting the heat sensation of sweating, it is proposed to effectively release the moisture retained in the clothes by increasing the breathability of the cloth during sweating, and if the sweat is stopped, By reducing the air permeability of the fabric and suppressing the coldness caused by the excessive undulation of the water, the fabric can be self-adjusting and ventilating, and the fabric can be self-adjusting and ventilating (see, for example, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2003-41462, JP-A No. 10-77544, JP-A-2002-1 80323). Although these roots can suppress the heat sensation during sweating by improving the air permeability, the cause of the heat sensation is not only the sultry heat in the clothes (the humidity rises), but also the heat of the body due to the heat generated by the body. Therefore, in addition to improving the gas permeability, it is also an effective means to reduce the warmth (to make the thickness of the cloth thin). Furthermore, in the case where two pieces of clothes are worn in an overlapping manner, it is difficult to improve the air permeability, so that the thickness of the cloth is made thinner as a more effective means. However, such a self-adjusting thickness of cloth has not been proposed so far. Further, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2006-119, discloses an invention of a crimped fiber having a reduced shrinkage ratio (longer appearance length) during moisture absorption in contrast to the crimped fiber used in the present invention. In the Japanese Patent Publication No. 2007-183224, the present inventors propose a crimped fiber having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption. Furthermore, in recent years, due to the high awareness of personal beauty and health, easy exercise such as jogging or walking or muscle training, or a healthy series of sports represented by swimming or aerobics or yoga is prevailing. The clothes for these sports are required to be close to the body for easy movement, support for body activities, sweat absorption and quick drying. As a material, a polyester or nylon having excellent sweat absorption and quick-drying properties and a polyurethane-like elastic yarn for supporting a snug or supportability are used as a material (see, for example, JP-A-63). Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. Hei. No. Hei. No. Hei. No. Hei. No. Hei. In addition, it is also proposed to have a special sewing pattern of the fabrics, thereby improving the clothes that are more suitable for the fit or the movement support function (refer to Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2005-290625, No. 20 04-131903, JP-A-2004-- 3 3 9623). However, these systems use the flexibility of various polyurethane fibers to match the body's 'making a good fit to the body' and making clothes smaller than the size of the wearer's body. difficult. Further, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. Hei. No. 2006-1 1 2009 discloses an invention of a crimped fiber having a reduced shrinkage ratio (longer appearance length) during moisture absorption using the opposite performance to the crimped fiber used in the present invention. In the Japanese Patent Publication No. 2007-183224, the present inventors propose a crimped fiber having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION [Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and the first object of the present invention provides an improvement in the crimp ratio when the moisture absorption is used (the appearance length is shortened). A fiber which has a reduced fiber permeability when moisture is absorbed and a fiber product formed using the cloth. Further, a second object of the present invention is to provide a fabric which is improved in transparency by thickening a portion of the fabric when moisture is absorbed, and a fiber product comprising the fabric.
另外,本發明之第三目的係提供一種立毛布料,其係 於立毛部含有捲縮纖維之立毛布料,且由於吸濕時上述捲 Q 縮纖維之捲縮率可逆地增加而使立毛高度變小,其結果, 藉由布料厚度減低,使布料之保暖性降低,可減低出汗時 - 之暑熱感,及提供使用該立毛布料構成之纖維製品。 本發明之第四目的係提供一種三層構造布料,其係以 表裏之底組織部與連結表裏之底組織部之連結部構成之三 層構造布料’該連結部中藉由使用吸濕時之捲縮率可逆地 增加之捲縮纖維使布料之厚度變小,其結果,使布料之保 暖性降低,可減低出汗時之暑熱感,以及提供使用該布料 -10- 201009148 構成之纖維製品。 再者,本發明之第5目的係提供一種布料,其含有吸 濕時之捲縮率提高之捲縮纖維,與未捲縮或吸濕時之捲縮 .率無變化之具有捲縮之纖維之布料,於吸濕時厚度減少之 - 結果’布料之保暖性降低,故而可降低出汗時之暑熱感, 以及提供使用該布料構成之纖維製品。 又’本發明之第六目的係提供一種藉由吸濕時之尺吋 φ 變小而提高出汗時之貼身性之布料,以及使用該布料構成 之纖維製品。 〔用以解決問題的手段〕 本發明者爲達成上述第一目的而積極檢討之結果,發 現於聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分接合成並列型而成之複合纖維 中’藉由以特定之共聚合聚酯形成之聚酯成分,可獲得吸 濕時之捲縮率得以提高(外觀長度變短)之纖維,且,使 0 用該等複合纖維編織成布料時獲得吸濕時之透氣性降低之 布料’進而藉此重複積極檢討故而完成本發明。換言之, • 依據本發明’提供下述1〜19做爲達成上述第一目的之手 段。 1. 一種布料,其特徵爲含有吸濕時之捲縮率HC( % )與乾燥時之捲縮率DC(%)之差異(HC-DC)爲0.5% 以上之捲縮纖維A; 其中’所謂乾燥時’係將試料放置在溫度20 °C、濕度 65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態,另一方面,所謂吸濕時 -11 - 201009148 ,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH之環境下24小 時後之狀態。 2. 如上述第1項所述之布料,其中上述捲縮纖維A . 爲將吸濕率彼此不同之兩種成分接合成並列型而成之複合 纖維。 __ 3. 如上述第2項所述之布料,其中吸濕率較低之成 分爲聚酯成分,另一方面,吸濕率較高之成分爲聚醯胺成 分。 鬱 4. 如上述第3項之布料,其中上述聚酯成分係由構 成聚酯之重複單位中對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有60〜99.5 莫耳%,及間苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有0.5〜40莫耳%之共 聚合聚酯所構成,且該聚酯成分中相對於聚酯重量含有 5〜55重量%之聚醚酯醯胺。 5. 如上述第1項所述之布料,其中布料中含有非捲 縮或吸濕時之捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之纖維B作爲其他 纖維。 @ 6·如上述第5項所述之布料,其中上述纖維b爲聚 - 酯纖維。 - 7.如上述第5項所述之布料,其中上述纖維b爲單 絲纖度ldtex以下且單絲數30條以上之多纖絲。 8·如上述第5項所述之布料’其中該布料爲織物或 編物,且係將上述捲縮纖維A與纖維b對齊而包含。 9.如上述第5項所述之布料,其中該布料爲織物或 編物,且上述捲縮纖維A與纖維B係兩者交互配置作爲布 -12- 201009148 料之構成絲條。Further, a third object of the present invention is to provide a rag fabric which is a rag fabric having a crimped fiber in a standing portion, and which has a reversible increase in the curling ratio of the squeezing fiber due to moisture absorption. As a result, the thickness of the cloth is reduced, the warmth of the fabric is lowered, the heat sensation during sweating can be reduced, and the fiber product composed of the woven fabric can be provided. A fourth object of the present invention is to provide a three-layer structure fabric which is a three-layer structure fabric composed of a bottom portion of a bottom and a bottom portion of a bottom portion of a base portion of the front and back sides. The crimping fiber which reversibly increases the crimping ratio reduces the thickness of the fabric, and as a result, the warmth of the fabric is lowered, the heat sensation during sweating is reduced, and the fiber product using the fabric -10- 201009148 is provided. Further, a fifth object of the present invention is to provide a fabric comprising a crimped fiber having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption, and a crimped fiber having no change in the crimp ratio at the time of unrolling or moisture absorption. The fabric is reduced in thickness when it absorbs moisture - as a result, the warmth of the fabric is lowered, so that the heat of the sweat can be reduced, and the fiber product using the fabric can be provided. Further, a sixth object of the present invention is to provide a fabric which improves the fit of sweat when the ruler φ is reduced by moisture absorption, and a fiber product comprising the fabric. [Means for Solving the Problem] The inventors of the present invention have actively reviewed the results of the above-mentioned first object, and found that in the composite fiber in which the polyester component and the polyamide component are joined into a side-by-side type, When the polyester component formed of the polymerized polyester is used, it is possible to obtain a fiber in which the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption is increased (the appearance length is shortened), and the gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption is reduced when the composite fiber is woven into the fabric. The fabric 'and thus repeats the active review to complete the present invention. In other words, • According to the present invention, the following 1 to 19 are provided as means for achieving the above first object. A fabric characterized by comprising a crimped fiber A having a difference in crimp ratio HC (%) during moisture absorption and a crimp ratio DC (%) during drying (HC-DC) of 0.5% or more; wherein In the case of drying, the sample is placed in a state of temperature 20 ° C and humidity 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, when the moisture absorption is -11 - 201009148, the sample is placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and humidity. The state after 24 hours in an environment of 90% RH. 2. The fabric according to the above item 1, wherein the crimped fiber A is a composite fiber obtained by joining two components having different moisture absorption rates into a side-by-side type. __ 3. The fabric according to the above item 2, wherein the component having a low moisture absorption rate is a polyester component, and on the other hand, the component having a higher moisture absorption rate is a polyamide component. 4. The fabric of item 3 above, wherein the polyester component comprises 60 to 99.5 mol% of the ethylene terephthalate unit in the repeating unit constituting the polyester, and the ethylene isophthalate unit It is composed of a copolymerized polyester of 0.5 to 40 mol%, and the polyester component contains 5 to 55 wt% of a polyether ester decylamine relative to the weight of the polyester. 5. The fabric according to the above item 1, wherein the fabric contains the crimped fibers B as non-coiled or moisture-absorbing, and the crimped fibers B are used as the other fibers. The fabric of the above item 5, wherein the fiber b is a poly-ester fiber. The fabric according to the above item 5, wherein the fiber b is a multifilament having a single yarn fineness of ldtex or less and a number of filaments of 30 or more. 8. The fabric of item 5, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, and the crimped fiber A is aligned with the fiber b. 9. The fabric of item 5, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, and the crimped fiber A and the fiber B are alternately disposed as a constituent yarn of the cloth -12-201009148.
10.如上述第5項所述之布料’其中該布料爲織物或 . 編物’且該布料中含有上述捲縮纖維A位在芯部且纖維B 位在鞘部之芯鞘型複合絲。 - 丨1.如上述第1項所述之布料,其中該布料爲具有兩 I 層以上之多層構造之多層構造布料,且至少一層中構成該 層之總纖維重量中之30重量%以上爲上述捲縮纖維a。 鲁 12·如上述第1項所述之布料’其中該布料爲下述定 義之覆蓋因子CF (乾燥時)在2000〜4500範圍內之織物 CF=(DWp/l.l) 1/2xMWp+ ( DWf/1.1 ) 1/2xMWf 其中,DWp爲經絲總纖度(dtex) ,MWp爲經絲織 密度(條/2.54cm) ’ DWf爲緯絲總纖度(dtex) > M Wf φ 爲緯絲織密度(條/2.54cm )。 13. 如上述第1項所述之布料’其中該布料爲4〇縱 • 列針數(wale) /2_54cm以上且50橫列針數(c〇urse) /2.54cm以上之編物。 14. 如上述第1項所述之布料,其中對該布料施加加 熱加壓加工。 15·如上述第1項所述之布料,其中對該布料施加撥 水加工。 16.如上述第1項所述之布料,其中乾燥時之布料透 -13- 201009148 氣性爲50cc/cm2/s以下。 17. 如上述第1項所述之布料,其中吸濕時之布料之 透氣性下降率以下式定義爲10%以上:10. The fabric of item 5, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric or a woven fabric, and the fabric comprises a core-sheath type composite yarn in which the crimped fiber A is located at a core portion and the fiber B is at a sheath portion. The fabric of the above-mentioned item 1, wherein the fabric is a multi-layer fabric having a multilayer structure of two or more layers, and at least 30% by weight of the total fiber weight constituting the layer in at least one layer is the above Coiled fiber a. Lu 12. The fabric of item 1 above, wherein the fabric is a fabric having a coverage factor CF (when dry) defined in the range of 2000 to 4500, CF=(DWp/ll) 1/2xMWp+ (DWf/1.1 ) 1/2xMWf where DWp is the warp total denier (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (bar / 2.54cm) ' DWf is the weft total denier (dtex) > M Wf φ is the weft weave density (bar) /2.54cm ). 13. The fabric as described in the above item 1 wherein the fabric is 4 〇 longitudinally arranged, the number of stitches (wale) /2_54 cm or more, and the number of stitches of 50 courses (c〇urse) / 2.54 cm or more. 14. The fabric of item 1 above, wherein the fabric is subjected to a heat and pressure process. The fabric of the above item 1, wherein the fabric is subjected to water repellent processing. 16. The fabric according to item 1 above, wherein the fabric during drying has a gas permeability of -10 to 201009148 of 50 cc/cm2/s or less. 17. The fabric according to item 1 above, wherein the rate of decrease in the gas permeability of the fabric at the time of moisture absorption is defined by the following formula: 10% or more:
透氣性下降率(%) =(APD-APH) /APDxlOO 其中’ APD爲乾燥時布料之透氣性(cc/em2/s ), ΑΡΗ爲吸濕時布料之透氣性(cc/cm2/s)。 18. 如上述第1項所述之布料,其中該布料之漏水性 爲2000cc以下。 其中’漏水性係使用JIS L 1092,6.3 (雨試驗A法) 之Bundesmann雨試驗裝置,測定設定成總水量7升/分鐘 於10分鐘內之漏水量。 19. —種纖維製品,其係使用上述1〜18中任一項之 布料而成’且選自由外衣用衣料、運動用衣料及內襯用衣 料組成之群組。 依據上述本發明’使用吸濕時之捲縮率提高(外觀長 度變短)之纖維,可獲得吸濕時之透氣性降低之布料及使 用該布料構成之纖維製品。 另外’本發明者爲達成上述第二目的而積極檢討之結 果’發現吸濕時之捲縮率獲得提高之捲縮纖維,與非捲縮 或吸濕時之捲縮率實質上無變化之具有捲縮之纖維構成布 料時’由於吸濕時布料之厚度部分變厚而使防透明性獲得 改善’進而重複積極檢討之結果故而完成本發明。亦即, -14- 201009148 依據本發明’提供下述20~28作爲達成上述第二目的之手 段。 * 2〇·如上述第5項之布料,其中自布料乾燥時之厚度 . (TD)與吸濕時之厚度(TW)以下式計算出之厚度變化 - 率爲5%以上: 厚度變化率(%) =( (TW-TD) /TD) χΙΟΟ 其中,所謂乾燥時之厚度係將布料置於溫度2 0 °C、濕 度65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度,另一方 面,所謂吸濕時之厚度係將布料置於溫度20 °C、濕度 90%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度。 21.如上述第20項所述之布料,其中布料具有僅以 上述捲縮纖維A構成之部分(Y部分)與僅以上述纖維B 構成之部分(Z部分),且上述Y部分係成爲於經方向及 • /或緯方向連續地連接著。 ' 22.如上述第20項所述之布料,其中布料具有僅以 • 上述纖維B構成之部分(Z部分)與以上述捲縮纖維A及 上述纖維B構成之部分(X部分),且上述X部分係成爲 於經方向及/或緯方向連續地連接著。 23.如上述第20項所述之布料,其中布料具有以上 述捲縮纖維A及上述纖維B構成之部分(X部分)與僅以 上述捲縮纖維A構成之部分(Y部分)’且該布料中之上 述Y部分係成爲於經方向及/或緯方向連續地連接著。 -15- 201009148 24. 如上述第20項所述之布料’其中布料具有以上 述捲縮纖維A與上述纖維B構成之部分(X部分)與僅以 上述捲縮纖維A構成之部分(Y部分)’及僅以上述纖維 - B構成之部分(Z部分),且上述Y部分係成爲於經方向 _ 及/或緯方向連續地連接著。 - 25. 如上述第20項所述之布料,其中布料爲由兩層 _ 以上構成之多層布料,具有以上述捲縮纖維A與纖維B構 成之層,及僅以上述纖維B構成之層,且前者之層與後者 ❹ 之層於部分連接。 26. 如上述第20項所述之布料,其中布料爲由兩層 以上構成之多層布料,具有以上述捲縮纖維A與纖維B構 成之層,及僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成之層,且前者之層與 後者之層於部分連接。 27. 如上述第20項所述之布料,其中布料爲由兩層 以上構成之多層布料,具有僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成之層 ,及僅以上述纖維B構成之層,且前者之層與後者之層於 〇 部分連接。 28. —種纖維製品,其係使用上述第19項~第26項 ’ 中任一項所述之布料所成,且選自由外衣用衣料、運動用 衣料及內襯用衣料組成之群組。 依據上述本發明,可獲得藉由吸濕時布料之厚度部分 變厚而提高防透明性之布料,以及使用該布料而成之纖維 製品。 另外,本發明者爲達成上述第三目的而積極檢討之結 -16- 201009148 果’發現以立毛部及底組織部構成之立毛布料,以及藉由 在立毛部上配置因吸濕使捲縮率增加之捲縮纖維(外觀長 .度變短),可獲得期望之立毛布料及纖維製品,進而重複 .積極檢討因而完成本發明。亦即,依據本發明,提供下列 - 2 9-3 3作爲達成上述第三目的之手段。 . 2 9 ·如上述第1項所述之布料,其係以由割絨(cutGas permeability reduction rate (%) = (APD-APH) / APDxlOO where 'APD is the gas permeability (cc/em2/s) of the fabric when dry, and ΑΡΗ is the gas permeability (cc/cm2/s) of the fabric when moisture is absorbed. 18. The fabric of item 1, wherein the fabric has a water leakage of 2000 cc or less. Among them, the water leakage was measured by using a Bundesmann rain test apparatus of JIS L 1092, 6.3 (rain test A method), and the amount of water leakage set in a total water amount of 7 liters/min in 10 minutes was measured. 19. A fibrous product obtained by using the fabric of any one of the above 1 to 18 and selected from the group consisting of a garment for outerwear, a garment for sportswear, and a garment for lining. According to the present invention, the fiber having a reduced crimp ratio (decreased appearance length) at the time of moisture absorption can be used to obtain a fabric having reduced gas permeability during moisture absorption and a fiber product comprising the fabric. In addition, the result of the positive review by the inventors of the present invention for the purpose of achieving the above-mentioned second object is that the crimped fiber having an improved crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption is found to have substantially no change in the crimp ratio at the time of non-crimping or moisture absorption. When the crimped fiber constitutes a fabric, the thickness of the fabric is partially thickened to improve the transparency, and the results of the positive review are repeated, and the present invention has been completed. That is, -14-201009148 provides the following 20 to 28 as a means for achieving the above second object in accordance with the present invention. * 2〇 · The fabric of item 5 above, wherein the thickness from the drying of the fabric. (TD) and the thickness at the time of moisture absorption (TW) are calculated by the following formula: the rate of change is 5% or more: thickness change rate ( %) =( (TW-TD) /TD) χΙΟΟ Among them, the thickness of the so-called drying is the thickness of the cloth in the state of the fabric at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. The thickness at the time of moisture absorption is the thickness of the cloth in a state where the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours. The cloth according to the above item 20, wherein the cloth has a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fibers A and a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fibers B, and the Y portion is formed Continuously connected by direction and / or latitude. The cloth according to the above item 20, wherein the cloth has a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B and a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and the above The X portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. The cloth according to the above item 20, wherein the cloth has a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fiber A and The above-mentioned Y portions in the cloth are continuously connected in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. The cloth of the above-mentioned item 20, wherein the cloth has a portion (X portion) composed of the above-mentioned crimped fiber A and the above-mentioned fiber B, and a portion composed only of the above-mentioned crimped fiber A (Y portion) And a portion (Z portion) composed only of the above-mentioned fibers - B, and the above-mentioned Y portions are continuously connected in the warp direction _ and/or the weft direction. The cloth according to the above item 20, wherein the cloth is a multi-layered fabric composed of two or more layers, and has a layer composed of the crimped fibers A and B, and a layer composed only of the fibers B. And the layer of the former is connected to the layer of the latter. 26. The fabric according to the above item 20, wherein the fabric is a multi-layered fabric composed of two or more layers, and has a layer composed of the crimped fibers A and fibers B, and a layer composed only of the crimped fibers A. And the layer of the former is connected to the layer of the latter. 27. The fabric according to the above item 20, wherein the fabric is a multilayer fabric composed of two or more layers, and has a layer composed only of the crimped fibers A and a layer composed only of the fibers B, and the layer of the former Connected to the layer of the latter. A fibrous product, which is obtained by using the fabric according to any one of the items 19 to 26, and is selected from the group consisting of a garment for outerwear, a garment for sportswear, and a garment for lining. According to the present invention as described above, it is possible to obtain a fabric which is improved in transparency by thickening the thickness of the cloth when moisture is absorbed, and a fiber product obtained by using the cloth. In addition, the inventors of the present invention have actively reviewed the results of the above-mentioned third objective - 16-201009148, and found that the upright hairs and the bottom tissues are formed, and the curl ratio is caused by moisture absorption on the hair portions. The increased crimping fiber (longer appearance and shorter length) can obtain the desired rag fabric and fiber product, and is repeated. The positive review thus completes the present invention. That is, according to the present invention, the following - 2 9-3 3 is provided as a means for achieving the above third object. 2 9 · The fabric of item 1 above, which is cut by cut (cut
Pile)及/或毛圈絨(loop pile)組成之立毛部及底組織部 φ 構成之立毛布料,且上述立毛部包含上述捲縮纖維A。 30·如上述第第29項項所述之布料,其中上述底組 織部係以聚酯纖維構成。 31. 如上述第29項所述之布料,其中對布料施加吸 水加工。 32. 如上述第29項所述之布料,其中自布料乾燥時 之厚度(TD)與吸濕時之厚度(TW)以下式計算出之厚 度變化率爲5%以上: 厚度變化率(% ) = ( ( TD-TW ) /TD ) X 1 〇〇 其中,所謂乾燥時之厚度係將布料置於溫度2(rc、濕 度65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度,另—方 面,所謂吸濕時之厚度係將布料置於溫度20。(:、濕度 90%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度。 33. —種纖維製品’其係使用上述第29〜32項中任一 項之布料’且選自由便服用衣料、羊毛用衛生衣、毛衣、 -17- 201009148 外衣用衣料、運動用衣料、內襯用衣料、尿布及介護用被 單等醫療·衛生用品、睡衣寢具、椅子或沙發等表面材料 、地毯、汽車座椅材料、室內用品組成之群組。 . $«上述本發明’藉由吸濕時上述捲縮纖維之捲縮率 可逆地增加使立毛高度變小,結果是,藉由布料厚度降低 — ’而使布料之保暖性降低,而可獲得出汗時減低暑熱感之 . 立毛布料,以及使用該立毛布料之纖維製品。 又’本發明者爲達成上述第四目的而積極檢討之結果 參 ’發現以表裏之底組織部與連結表裏之底組織部之連結部 構成之三層構造布料,藉由於該連結部中使用吸濕時之捲 縮率增加之捲縮纖維(外觀長度變短),可獲得期望之三 層構造布料以及纖維製品,進而重複積極檢討故而完成本 發明。亦即’依據本發明,係提供下述34~38作爲達成上 述第四目的之手段。 3 4 .如上述地1項所述之布料,其係以表裏底組織部 分與連結表裏之底組織部之連結部所構成之三層構造布料 〇 ,且上述連結部中包含上述捲縮纖維A。 35. 如上述第34項所述之布料,其中上述底組織部 ' 係以聚酯纖維構成。 36. 如上述第34項所述之布料’其中對布料施加吸 水加工。 37. 如上述第34項所述之布料’其中自布料乾燥時 之厚度(TD)與吸濕時之厚度(TW)以下式計算出之厚 度變化率爲5%以上: • 18 - 201009148 厚度變化率(%) =( (TD-TW) /TD) χΙΟΟ - 其中’所謂乾燥時之厚度係將布料置於溫度2(TC、濕 - 度65 % RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度,另—方 • 面’所§胃吸濕時之厚度係將布料置於溫度20。(:、濕度 9 0%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度。 鲁 38.—種纖維製品,其係使用上述第34~37項中任一 項所述之布料,且選自由便服用衣料、羊毛衛生衣、毛衣 、外衣用衣料、運動用衣料、內襯用衣料、尿布及介護用 被單等醫療·衛生用品、睡衣寢具、椅子或沙發等表面材 料、地毯、汽車座椅材料、室內用品組成之群組。 依據上述本發明,爲以表裏之底組織部與連結表裏之 底組織部之連結部構成之三層構造布料,藉由於該連結部 中使用吸濕時之捲縮率可逆地增加之捲縮纖維使布料之厚 0 度變小’其結果,可獲得布料之保暖性降低,於出汗時減 低暑熱感之三層構造布料,以及使用該布料構成之纖維製 品。 進而本發明者爲達成上述第五目的而積極檢討之結果 ’發現在布料內適度配合具有吸濕時之捲縮率提高之捲縮 纖維及未捲縮或吸濕時之捲縮率實質上無變化之具有捲縮 之纖維,可獲得吸濕時厚度減少之布料,進而重複積極檢 討因而完成本發明。亦即,依據本發明而提供下述3 9〜4 4 作爲達成上述第五目的之手段。 -19- 201009148 39. 如上述第5項所述之布料,其中自布料乾燥時之 厚度(TD)與吸濕時之厚度(TW)以下式計算出之厚度 變化率爲5%以上: 厚度變化率(% ) = ( ( TD-TW ) /TD ) χΙΟΟ 其中,所謂乾燥時之厚度係將布料置於溫度20°C、濕 度6 5%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度,另一方 面,所謂吸濕時之厚度係將布料置於溫度20 °C、濕度 90%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度。 40. 如上述第39項所述之布料,其中上述纖維B爲 使沸水收縮率20%以上之聚酯系纖維熱收縮而成之纖維。 41. 如上述第39項所述之布料,其中布料具有含有 上述捲縮纖維A之部分(Y部分)與僅以上述纖維B構成 之部分(Z部分),且上述Y部分係成爲於經方向及/或 緯方向連續地連接著。 42. 如上述39項所述之布料,其中布料具有含有上 述捲縮纖維A之部分(Y部分)與僅以上述纖維B構成之 部分(Z部分),且上述Y部分及Z部分在布料中分別以 5mm以上之寬度交叉配置成菱形花紋狀或條紋狀或邊紋狀 〇 43. 如上述第39項所述之布料,其中該布料係由兩 層構成之布料,其中第一層含有上述捲縮纖維A,且第二 層僅以纖維B構成,且第一層與第二層係部分連接。 201009148 44· ~種纖維製品,其係使用上述39〜43項中任 所述之布料構成,且選自由外衣用衣料、運動用衣料及內 .襯用衣料組成之群組。 .依據上述本發明,係含有吸濕時之捲縮率獲得提高之 -捲縮纖維及未捲縮或吸濕時之捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之 纖維之布料,因吸濕時厚度減小之結果,使布料保暖性降 低’因此可獲得出汗時減低暑熱感之布料,以及使用該布 φ 料構成之纖維製品。 又’本發明者爲達成上述第六目的而積極檢討之結果 ,發現以吸濕時之捲縮率獲得提高之捲縮纖維及未捲縮或 吸濕時之捲縮率實質上無變化之具有捲縮之彈性纖維構成 布料時’因吸濕使布料尺寸變小,進而重複積極檢討因而 完成本發明。亦即,依據本發明,係提供下列45〜57作爲 達成上述第六目的之手段。 45.如上述第5項所述之布料,其中自布料乾燥時之 φ 面積(SD)與吸濕時之面積(SW)以下式計算出之面積 變化率爲1%以上: 面積變化率(%) = ( (SD-SW) /SD) χΙΟΟ 其中,所謂乾燥時之面積係將布料置於溫度20°C、濕 度65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料面積,另一方 面,所謂吸濕時之面積係將布料置於溫度20 °C、濕度 9 0%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料面積。 -21 - 201009148 46.如上述第45項所述之布料,其中上述纖維B爲 聚胺基甲酸酯彈性纖維或聚醚酯彈性纖維。 47·如上述第46項所述之布料,其中包含以非捲縮 或者吸濕時之捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之非彈性纖維C作 爲其他纖維。 48. 如上述第47項所述之布料,其中上述纖維C爲 聚酯纖維。 49. 如上述第47項所述之布料,其中布料具有以上 述捲縮纖維A及上述纖維B構成之部分(Y部分)與以上 述非彈性纖維C及上述纖維B構成之部分(Z部分),且 上述Y部分係成爲於經方向及/或緯方向連續地連接著。 50. 如上述第47項所述之布料,其中布料具有以上 述非彈性纖維C及上述彈性纖維B構成之部分(Z部分) ,及以上述捲縮纖維A及上述非彈性纖維C及上述彈性纖 維B構成之部分(X部分),且上述X部分係成爲於經方 向及/或緯方向連續地連接著。 51. 如上述第47項所述之布料,其中布料具有以上 述捲縮纖維A及上述非彈性纖維C與上述彈性纖維b構 成之部分(X部分),與以上述捲縮纖維A及上述彈性纖 維B構成之部分(Y部分),且該布料中之上述γ部分係 成爲於經方向及/或緯方向連續。 52. 如上述第47項所述之布料’其中布料具有以上 述捲縮纖維A及上述纖維C與上述彈性纖維B構成之部 分(X部分),與以上述捲縮纖維A及上述彈性纖維b構 -22- 201009148 成之部分(Y部分)’及以上述非彈性纖維c及上述彈性 纖維Β構成之部分(Ζ部分)’且上述Υ部分係成爲於經 方向及/或緯方向連續。 53.如上述第45項所述之布料,其中該布料爲兩層 構造之布料,其中一層僅由上述捲縮纖維Α構成,另—層 僅由上述纖維B構成。 54·如上述第47項所述之布料,其中該布料係由三 層以上構成之多層布料,其具有以上述捲縮纖維A與上述 非彈性纖維C構成之層,及僅以上述非彈性纖維C構成之 層,及以纖維B構成之層。 55.如上述第47項所述之布料,其中該布料係由三 層以上構成之多層布料,其具有以上述捲縮纖維A與上述 非彈性纖維C構成之層,及僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成之層 ,及僅以上述彈性纖維B構成之層。 56·如上述第47項所述之布料,其中該布料係由三 層以上構成之多層布料,其具有僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成 之層,及僅以上述非彈性纖維C構成之層,及僅以上述彈 性纖維B構成之層。 57_ —種纖維製品,其係使用上述第45項〜第56項 中任一項所述之布料構成,且選自由外衣用衣料、運動衣 料及內襯用衣料組成之群組。 依據上述本發明,可獲得藉由吸濕時尺寸變小而於出 汗時提高貼身性之布料,以及使用該布料而成之纖維製品 。該等纖維製品可發揮穿脫容易且運動時之貼身性、運動 -23- 201009148 支撐性優異之效果。 【實施方式】 _ 以下針對上述1~19相關之本發明實施形態詳細加以 說明。 _ 本發明之布料藉由含有吸濕時之捲縮率HC(%)與乾 燥時之捲縮率DC (%)之差異(HC-DC)爲0.5 %以上之 捲縮纖維A,因此藉由提高吸濕時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率, @ 而僅使捲縮纖維A之長度變短。其結果,由於吸濕時布料 整體之面積變小,因此使布料空隙率降低而降低布料透氣 性。另一方面,乾燥時藉由降低捲縮纖維A之捲縮率,而 僅使捲縮纖維A之長度增長。其結果,由於乾燥時布料整 體面積變大,使布料之空隙率增大而提高布料之透氣性。 其中,所謂乾燥時,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度 65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態,另一方面,所謂吸濕時 ,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH之環境下24小 〇 時後之狀態。 其中,當吸濕時之捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC與乾燥時 之捲縮纖維A之捲縮率DC之差異(HC-DC)未達0.5 %時 ,有吸濕時布料之透氣性不降低而不佳。且,乾燥時捲縮 纖維A之捲縮率DC較好在50〜80%之範圍內。另一方面 ,吸濕時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC較好在60~90%之範圍 內。 上述捲縮纖維A較好爲將吸濕率彼此不同之兩種成分 -24- 201009148 接合成並列型而成之複合纖維。進而,較好吸濕率低的成 分爲聚酯成分,另一方面’吸濕率筒的成分爲聚酿胺成分 。具體而言爲以如下列之聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分接合成並 列型而成之複合纖維,且較好爲具有展現潛在捲縮性能之 捲縮構造之捲縮纖維。 亦即,上述聚醯胺成分爲主鏈中具有醯胺鍵之聚合物 ,舉例爲例如尼龍4、尼龍6、尼龍12、尼龍46、尼龍66 等。尤其就成本面、廣用性、製絲性等觀點而言’以尼龍 6、尼龍66較佳。又,該等聚醯胺成分亦可與已知爲基劑 之成分共聚合,或者該等聚醯胺成分中亦可含有氧化鈦或 碳黒等顏料、習知之抗氧化劑、抗靜電劑、耐光劑等。 另一方面,上述聚酯成分較好係由構成該聚酯之重複 單位中對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有60-99.5莫耳%,且間 苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有0.5〜40莫耳%之共聚合聚酯構成 者。通常,聚酯之熱收縮率比聚醯胺低,但藉由採用該等 共聚合聚酯作爲聚酯可使聚酯之熱收縮率接近聚醯胺。結 果,在乾燥時之捲縮彎曲構造中,在吸濕時之捲縮彎曲構 造中,容易成爲膨潤之聚醯胺成分位於外側,聚酯成分位 於內側之構造,而易於提高捲縮率。其中,當對苯二甲酸 乙二酯單位未達60莫耳%時,無法充分維持所得複合纖維 之強伸長度等基本物性而不適當。當對苯二甲酸乙二酯單 位超過99·5莫耳%,間苯二甲酸乙二酯未達0.5莫耳%時 ’在複合纖維吸濕時不太提高捲縮率(捲縮絲之外觀長短 不縮短),作爲布料時有無法獲得充分低透氣性之問題。 -25- 201009148 當間苯二甲酸乙二酯超過40莫耳%時,無法維持複合纖維 之強伸長度等基本物性,另外熱安定性亦劣化,且由於製 絲步驟中之分解性異物而有紡絲口之模嘴部分之過濾壓( · 充塡壓力)顯著上升之問題。 _ 該等聚酯可爲以任意方法製造者,若對例如聚對苯二 - 甲酸乙二酯加以說明,係使對苯二甲酸與乙二醇直接酯化 . 反應,使如對苯二甲酸二甲酯之對苯二甲酸低級烷酯與乙 二醇直接酯化反應,或使對苯二甲酸與環氧乙烷反應等, @ 產生對苯二甲酸之二醇酯及/或其低聚合物。接著使該產 物在減壓下加熱且聚縮合反應至所需之聚合度爲止而製造 〇 又,該聚酯除構成聚酯之對苯二甲酸乙二酯成分及間 苯二甲酸乙二酯成分以外,亦可共聚合第三種成分,該第 三種成分較好爲二羧酸成分或二醇成分之任一種。至於該 種二羧酸成分可舉例爲例如苯二甲酸、二溴對苯二甲酸、 萘二羧酸、二苯基二羧酸、二苯氧基乙烷二羧酸、如羥 Θ 基乙氧基苯甲酸之二官能性芳香族二羧酸、如癸二酸、己 二酸、草酸之二官能性脂肪族二羧酸、1,4-環己烷二羧酸 等。又上述二醇成分之一部分亦可經其他二醇成分取代, 該等二醇成分舉例爲例如環己烷-1,4-二甲醇、新戊二醇、 雙酚A、雙酚S、2,2-雙(4-Ρ-羥基乙氧基苯基)丙烷、雙 (4-β-羥基乙氧基苯基)颯、2,2-雙(3,5-二溴-4- (2-羥 基乙氧基)苯基)丙烷之脂肪族、脂環族、芳香族之二醇 。另外,上述聚酯中可依據需要少量地摻合熔融其他聚合 -26- 201009148 物者,亦可爲少量地使用季戊四醇、三羥甲基丙烷、偏苯 三酸等鏈分支劑者。除此之外,本發明之聚酯當然亦可與 . 一般聚酯同樣添加二氧化鈦、碳黑等顏料、習知抗氧化劑 、抗著色劑。 . 該聚酯成分中較好含有聚醚酯醯胺。當聚酯成分中含 有聚醚酯醯胺時,聚酯成分成爲柔軟,於吸濕時,在聚醯 胺成分膨潤之際使聚酯成分易於追隨,易於使吸濕時之捲 Φ 縮率提高故而較佳。該聚醚酯醯胺對聚酯成分之添加量相 對於聚酯成分重量以5~5 5重量%較佳。若未達5重量%, 則複合纖維吸濕時,捲縮率不太提高(捲縮纖維的外觀長 度難以變短),作爲布料時會有無法獲得充分透氣性降低 之問題。另外,當超過55重量%時,會有無法穩定地紡絲 之問題。 該聚醚酯醯胺較好爲由兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子 量500~5,000之聚醯胺(3)與數平均分子量1,600〜3,000 之雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)所衍生。「衍生」意指 ' 使兩種成分反應獲得者,亦可表示經共聚合而得者。 • 兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)較好係由聚醯胺部分 與分子量調節劑構成者。該聚醯胺部分係由(1)內醯胺 開環聚合物、(2)胺基羧酸之聚縮合物,或(3)二羧酸 與二胺之聚縮合物之至少任一種構成,該等中’ (1)之 內醯胺舉例爲丁內醯胺、戊內醯胺、己內醯胺、庚內醯胺 、十二烷內醯胺、十一烷內醯胺等。(2)之胺基羧酸舉 例爲ω-胺基己酸、ω-胺基庚酸、ω-胺基辛酸、ω-胺基癸酸 -27- 201009148 、11-胺基十一烷酸、12-胺基十二烷酸等。(3)之二羧酸 舉例爲己二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二酸、十二烷二 酸、間苯二甲酸等。又(3)之二胺舉例爲四亞甲基二胺 . 、五亞甲基二胺、六亞甲基二胺、七亞甲基二胺、八亞甲 基二胺、十亞甲基二胺等。以上該等之內醯胺、胺基羧酸 — 、二羧酸、二胺統稱爲聚醯胺部分形成性單體》 _ 上述作爲兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之聚醯胺部 分形成性單體所例示者亦可兩種以上倂用。該等中較佳者 _ 爲己內醯胺、12-胺基十二烷酸及己二酸-六亞甲基二胺, 最佳者爲己內醯胺。 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)係進而使用碳數 4~2 0之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,在該等存在下藉由 慣用之方法,使上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體經開環聚合或 聚縮合獲得。碳數4〜2 0之二羧酸舉例爲琥珀酸、戊二酸 、己二酸、庚二酸、辛二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二 酸、或十二烷二酸等脂肪酸二羧酸;對苯二甲酸、間苯二 ❹ 甲酸、鄰苯二甲酸、或萘二羧酸等芳香族二羧酸;丨,4-環 ^ 己烷二羧酸、或二環己基-4,4·二羧酸等脂肪族二羧酸;或 · 5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉、或5-磺基間苯二甲酸鉀等5-磺基間 苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽等。該等中,較佳者爲脂肪族二羧酸、 芳香族二羧酸及5-磺基間苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽。更好爲己二 酸、對苯二甲酸、5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉。 以慣用之方法使聚醯胺部分形成性單體開環聚合或聚 縮合之際’其平均聚合度以2〜10時較佳,更好其平均聚 -28- 201009148 合度爲3~8。其結果該聚醯胺部分之數平均分子量爲 100〜1,000’ 更好爲 300〜700。 . 再者上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)爲在分子量 調節劑的碳數4〜20之二羧酸成分之兩末端賦予聚醢胺部 -分之成分’於單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分,或亦可爲兩 .末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分及單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成 分之混合物。爲混合物時,相對於1莫耳單末端賦予聚醯 φ 胺部分之成分’兩末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分成爲1〜10 莫耳而成之莫耳比較佳。更好爲相對於1莫耳之單末端賦 予之成分’兩末端賦予之成分爲3~8莫耳。因此可適當的 調整上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體之具有羧基之成分之量以 使兩末端具有竣基。若僅使用內醯胺及/或胺基竣酸作爲 聚醯胺部分形成性單體,則由於分子量調節劑爲二羧酸成 分’因此可輕易地製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺胺(a) 。使用二羧酸與二胺之聚縮合物作爲聚醯胺部分形成性單 • 體時,例如使用於聚合物之最終改變二羧酸之反應等方法 可製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)。 ' 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之數平均分子量 通常爲500〜5,000,較好爲500~3,0 00。數平均分子量未達 5 00時會使聚醚酯醯胺本身之耐熱性降低,另一方面,當 超過5,0 00時由於反應性降低,因此聚醚酯醯胺製造時需 要更長時間。爲了使數平均分子量落在該範圍內,可選擇 碳數4~2 0之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,亦可在聚醯 胺部分之聚合之際適當設定反應條件。 -29- 201009148 另外’雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)中,雙酚類舉 例爲雙酚A(4,4’-二羥基二苯基-2,2-丙烷)、雙酚F( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基甲烷)、雙酚s ( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基楓 . )及4,4’-二羥基二苯基-2,2_ 丁烷等。該等中較佳者爲雙 酚A。 上述雙酷類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)係依慣用之方法 ’藉由將環氧乙烷加成於該等雙酚類上而得。又,亦可倂 用環氧乙烷與其他環氧烷(環氧丙烷、12-環氧丁烷、 參 1,4-環氧丁院等)’但其他環氧烷之使用量以全部環氧乙 院之重量爲準,通常在10重量%以下。 又上述加成物(b)對應於雙酚類之兩個羥基,聚合 有平均20~70莫耳之環氧乙烷、其他環氧烷(以下稱爲環 氧乙烷等)之情況較佳。更好爲聚合有3 2~60莫耳之環氧 乙烷等之情況。亦即,對應於雙酚之—個羥基聚合(加成 )有10~35莫耳’較好16〜30莫耳,更好16〜20莫耳之環 氧乙烷等而成之加成物。 © 上述加成物(b)之數平均分子量通常爲^600^3,000 ’尤其是以使用環氧乙院加成莫耳數爲32~60者較佳。若 ' 數平均分子量未達1,600,則抗靜電性不足,另一方面, 超過3,000時’由於反應性降低而使得聚醚酯醯胺製造時 需要較長時間。數平均分子量較好爲1,800〜2,400,環氧 乙院等之加成莫耳數更好爲32〜40。使數平均分子量在該 範圍內,係考量雙酚類之分子量’藉由調整環氧乙烷等之 加成莫耳數而達成。 -30- 201009148 上述加成物(b)以聚醚酯醯胺中之上述(a)與(b )之總重量爲準係在20~80重量%之範圍內使用。若加成 物(b )之量未達20重量%,則聚醚酯醯胺之抗靜電性劣 化,另一方面,當超過80重量%時,由於聚醚酯醯胺之耐 熱性降低而不佳。更好,加成物(b)以上述(a)與(b )之總重量爲準係在40~70重量%之範圍內使用。 本發明中使用之聚醚酯醯胺之相對黏度爲1.5〜3.5( 0.5重量%,間-甲酚溶液,25°C ),較好爲2.0〜3.0。若未 達1.5,由於混練時與基底聚合物成分(聚醯胺成分及聚 酯成分)之熔融黏度差異大,故而容易滞留在導管內或紡 絲組件內,長時間實施紡絲容易引起吐出異常,使所得複 合纖維之品質不穩定。另一方面,若超過3.5,於製絲時 將成爲斷絲原因。 該聚醚酯醯胺對聚醯胺成分之添加量以〇重量%最適 當。當少量添加時,聚醯胺成分之吸濕伸長性降低,而損 及本發明目的之吸濕時呈現捲縮而使外觀絲長度收縮之機 能。 上述並列型複合纖維可爲任意纖度、剖面形狀、複合 形態,作爲單絲纖度較宜爲1.5〜5.Odtex左右。另外,使 本發明之複合纖維成爲中空複合纖維時對於濕度之敏感度 變大,且蓬鬆性亦變大。另外,聚醯胺成分與聚酯成分之 複合纖維之剖面之面積比,以聚醯胺成分/聚酯成分 = 30/70〜70/3 0之範圍較佳,更好爲40/60〜60/40之範圍。 使上述複合纖維成爲單絲數條之多纖絲時,該多纖絲 -31 - 201009148 之總纖度並無特別限制,但作爲一般衣料用材料可在 40〜200 dtex之範圍內使用。而且,亦可依據需要進行交 織處理。 - 上述複合纖維爲具有潛在捲縮性能,如後述,在接受 染色加工等熱處理時展現潛在捲縮性能。因此吸濕時,由 - 於聚醯胺成分膨潤、伸長,且聚酯成分幾乎不引起長度變 . 化,因此捲縮率提高(捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變短)。另 一方面,由於乾燥時聚醯胺成分收縮,聚酯成分幾乎不產 參 生變化,因此捲縮率降低(捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變長)The pile portion and the bottom pile portion φ constitute a pile fabric, and the pile portion includes the crimped fiber A. The fabric according to the above item 29, wherein the bottom fabric portion is made of polyester fiber. 31. The fabric of item 29, wherein the fabric is subjected to a water absorbing process. The fabric according to the above item 29, wherein the thickness change rate (TD) from the drying of the cloth and the thickness (TW) at the time of moisture absorption are 5% or more calculated by the following formula: thickness change rate (%) = ( ( TD-TW ) /TD ) X 1 〇〇 Among them, the thickness of the so-called drying is the thickness of the cloth in the state of temperature 2 (rc, humidity 65% RH environment for 24 hours, and other aspects) The thickness in the case of moisture absorption is to place the fabric at a temperature of 20. (:, the thickness of the cloth in a state of humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours. 33. - a kind of fiber product, which uses the above items 29 to 32) Any of the fabrics' is selected from the group consisting of clothing, woolen sanitary ware, sweaters, -17- 201009148 garments for outerwear, sportswear, linings, diapers and sheets for care, and other necessities. a group of surface materials such as bedding, a chair or a sofa, a carpet, a car seat material, and an indoor product. $« The above invention 'reversibly increases the curling rate of the above-mentioned crimped fiber by moisture absorption to make the height of the standing hair Smaller, the result is reduced by the thickness of the cloth - In order to reduce the warmth of the fabric, it is possible to reduce the heat sensation when sweating. The raging fabric and the fiber product using the woven fabric. The result of the positive review by the inventors for achieving the above fourth objective The three-layer structure fabric composed of the joint portion between the bottom portion of the surface and the bottom portion of the joint portion in the joint portion is formed by the crimping fiber (the length of the appearance is shortened) in which the crimping ratio is increased during moisture absorption in the joint portion. The present invention has been completed by obtaining a desired three-layer structure fabric and a fiber product, and repeating the positive review. That is, according to the present invention, the following 34 to 38 are provided as means for achieving the above fourth object. 3 4. As described above The fabric according to the item is a three-layer structure fabric composed of a joint portion between the surface of the watch and the bottom portion and a bottom portion of the joint portion, and the crimping fiber A is included in the joint portion. The cloth according to the above aspect, wherein the bottom structure portion is made of a polyester fiber. 36. The cloth according to item 34 above, wherein the cloth is subjected to water absorbing processing. 37. The fabric described in item 34 has a thickness change rate of 5% or more calculated from the thickness (TD) when the cloth is dried and the thickness (TW) at the time of moisture absorption: • 18 - 201009148 Thickness change rate (%) =( (TD-TW) /TD) χΙΟΟ - where 'the thickness of the so-called dryness is to place the fabric at a temperature of 2 (TC, wet-degree 65% RH environment, the thickness of the cloth after 24 hours, another side • The thickness of the surface of the stomach is set to a temperature of 20. (:, the thickness of the cloth in a state of humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours. Lu 38. - Fiber products, which are used The fabric according to any one of the items 34 to 37, which is selected from the group consisting of a clothing material, a wool sanitary garment, a sweater, a garment for outerwear, a sports garment, a garment for lining, a diaper, and a care sheet, etc. A group of materials such as supplies, pajama bedding, chairs or sofas, carpets, car seat materials, and interior products. According to the present invention, the three-layer structure fabric composed of the bottom portion of the surface portion and the bottom portion of the bottom portion of the surface of the surface is retractably increased by the crimping rate in the joint portion during moisture absorption. The thickness of the cloth is made smaller by 0 degree. As a result, it is possible to obtain a three-layer structure fabric in which the heat retention of the fabric is lowered, and the heat is reduced during sweating, and a fiber product using the fabric. Further, the inventors of the present invention have actively reviewed the results of the above-mentioned fifth object, and found that the crimping rate of the crimped fiber having an increased crimp ratio during moisture absorption and the unwinding or moisture absorption in the cloth is substantially absent. The change of the fiber having the crimping can obtain a fabric having a reduced thickness at the time of moisture absorption, and the positive review is repeated to complete the present invention. That is, the following 3 9 to 4 4 are provided as means for achieving the above fifth object in accordance with the present invention. -19- 201009148 39. The fabric according to the above item 5, wherein the thickness change (TD) from the drying of the cloth and the thickness (TW) at the time of moisture absorption are calculated by the following formula: the thickness change rate is 5% or more: thickness variation Rate (%) = ((TD-TW) / TD ) χΙΟΟ where the thickness of the so-called dryness is the thickness of the cloth in a state where the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 6 5% RH for 24 hours, and On the one hand, the thickness at the time of moisture absorption is the thickness of the cloth in a state where the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours. The fabric according to the above item 39, wherein the fiber B is a fiber obtained by thermally shrinking a polyester fiber having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 20% or more. The cloth according to the above item 39, wherein the cloth has a portion (Y portion) containing the crimped fiber A and a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B, and the Y portion is formed in the warp direction. And/or the weft direction is continuously connected. The cloth according to the above item 39, wherein the cloth has a portion (Y portion) containing the crimped fiber A and a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B, and the Y portion and the Z portion are in the cloth. The fabric of the above-mentioned item 39, wherein the fabric is a fabric composed of two layers, wherein the first layer contains the above-mentioned rolls, respectively, in a width of 5 mm or more. The fiber A is condensed, and the second layer is composed only of the fibers B, and the first layer is joined to the second layer portion. 201009148 44. A fiber product comprising the fabric of any of the above-mentioned items 39 to 43 and selected from the group consisting of a garment for outerwear, a garment for sportswear, and a fabric for lining. According to the present invention as described above, the crimped fiber having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption and the crimped fiber having no change in the unfolded or moisture-absorbing crimping property, the thickness due to moisture absorption As a result of the reduction, the fabric warming property is lowered. Therefore, it is possible to obtain a fabric which reduces the heat sensation when sweating, and a fiber product which is composed of the cloth φ material. Further, as a result of a positive review by the present inventors for achieving the above-described sixth object, it has been found that the crimped fibers having an improved crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption and the crimp ratio at the time of unrolling or moisture absorption are substantially unchanged. When the crimped elastic fiber constitutes a cloth, the size of the cloth is reduced by moisture absorption, and the positive review is repeated to complete the present invention. That is, in accordance with the present invention, the following 45 to 57 are provided as means for achieving the above sixth object. The cloth according to the above item 5, wherein the area change rate of the φ area (SD) and the area (SW) when the cloth is dried is 1% or more: area change rate (%) ) = ( (SD-SW) /SD) χΙΟΟ Among them, the area when drying is the cloth area in a state where the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, the so-called cloth area The area at the time of moisture absorption is the cloth area in a state where the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours. The fabric according to the above item 45, wherein the fiber B is a polyurethane elastic fiber or a polyether ester elastic fiber. The fabric according to the above item 46, which comprises the non-elastic fiber C having the crimping rate which is not changed when the film is not crimped or moisture-absorbed, and is used as the other fiber. 48. The fabric of item 47, wherein the fiber C is a polyester fiber. The cloth according to the above item 47, wherein the cloth has a portion (Y portion) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and a portion (Z portion) composed of the inelastic fiber C and the fiber B. And the Y portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. The fabric according to the above item 47, wherein the cloth has a portion (Z portion) composed of the inelastic fiber C and the elastic fiber B, and the crimped fiber A and the inelastic fiber C and the elastic The portion (X portion) of the fiber B is formed, and the X portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. The fabric according to the above item 47, wherein the cloth has a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fiber A and the non-elastic fiber C and the elastic fiber b, and the crimped fiber A and the elastic The portion (Y portion) of the fiber B, and the γ portion of the cloth is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. The cloth of the above-mentioned item 47, wherein the cloth has a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber C and the elastic fiber B, and the crimped fiber A and the elastic fiber b A part (Y part) 'and a part (Ζ part) composed of the above-mentioned inelastic fiber c and the above-mentioned elastic fiber '' and the above-mentioned Υ part is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. The fabric according to the above item 45, wherein the fabric is a two-layer fabric, one of which is composed only of the crimped fiber bundle, and the other layer is composed only of the fiber B. The fabric of the above-mentioned item 47, wherein the fabric is a multi-layered fabric composed of three or more layers, and has a layer composed of the crimped fiber A and the non-elastic fiber C, and only the non-elastic fiber. The layer formed by C and the layer composed of fiber B. The fabric according to the above item 47, wherein the fabric is a multi-layered fabric composed of three or more layers, and has a layer composed of the crimped fiber A and the inelastic fiber C, and only the crimped fiber. A layer composed of A and a layer composed only of the above elastic fibers B. The fabric according to the above item 47, wherein the fabric is a multi-layer fabric composed of three or more layers, and has a layer composed only of the crimped fibers A and a layer composed only of the inelastic fibers C. And a layer composed only of the above elastic fibers B. A fabric comprising the fabric of any one of the above-mentioned items 45 to 56, and is selected from the group consisting of a garment for outerwear, a sportswear, and a garment for lining. According to the present invention as described above, it is possible to obtain a fabric which is improved in body shape upon sweating when the moisture absorption is small, and a fiber product obtained by using the fabric. These fiber products have an effect of being easy to put on and take off, and being close to the body during exercise and exercise -23-201009148. [Embodiment] _ Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention related to the above 1 to 19 will be described in detail. _ The fabric of the present invention has a crimped fiber A containing 0.5% or more of the difference (HC-DC) between the crimp ratio HC (%) at the time of moisture absorption and the crimp ratio DC (%) at the time of drying. The crimping ratio of the crimped fiber A at the time of moisture absorption is increased, @ and only the length of the crimped fiber A is shortened. As a result, since the area of the entire cloth becomes small at the time of moisture absorption, the void ratio of the cloth is lowered to lower the air permeability of the cloth. On the other hand, only the length of the crimped fibers A is increased by reducing the crimp ratio of the crimped fibers A during drying. As a result, the overall area of the cloth becomes larger during drying, and the void ratio of the cloth is increased to improve the gas permeability of the cloth. In the case of drying, the sample is placed in a state of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, when the moisture is absorbed, the sample is placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90%. The state of 24 hours after the RH environment. Wherein, when the difference between the crimping ratio HC of the crimped fiber A and the crimping ratio DC of the crimped fiber A during drying (HC-DC) is less than 0.5%, the moisture permeability of the fabric when moisture is absorbed Not lowering is not good. Further, the crimping ratio DC of the crimped fiber A during drying is preferably in the range of 50 to 80%. On the other hand, the crimping rate HC of the crimped fiber A during moisture absorption is preferably in the range of 60 to 90%. The crimped fiber A is preferably a composite fiber in which two components -24 to 201009148 having different moisture absorption rates are joined together into a side-by-side type. Further, the component having a low moisture absorption rate is preferably a polyester component, and the component of the moisture absorption rate cartridge is a polyamine component. Specifically, it is a composite fiber obtained by joining a polyester component and a polyamide component as follows, and is preferably a crimped fiber having a crimping structure exhibiting a potential crimping property. That is, the above polyamine component is a polymer having a guanamine bond in the main chain, and examples thereof include, for example, nylon 4, nylon 6, nylon 12, nylon 46, and nylon 66. In particular, nylon 6 and nylon 66 are preferable from the viewpoints of cost, versatility, and yarn-making properties. Further, the polyamine component may be copolymerized with a component known as a base, or the polyamide component may contain a pigment such as titanium oxide or carbonium, a conventional antioxidant, an antistatic agent, or light resistant. Agents, etc. On the other hand, the above polyester component preferably accounts for 60-99.5 mol% of the ethylene terephthalate unit in the repeating unit constituting the polyester, and the ethylene isophthalate unit occupies 0.5 to 40 mol. % of the copolymerized polyester of the ear. Generally, the heat shrinkage of the polyester is lower than that of the polyamine, but the heat shrinkage of the polyester is brought close to the polyamine by using the copolymerized polyester as the polyester. As a result, in the crimping and bending structure at the time of drying, in the crimping and bending structure at the time of moisture absorption, it is easy to form a swelled polyamidamide component on the outer side and a polyester component on the inner side, and it is easy to increase the crimp ratio. Among them, when the unit of ethylene terephthalate is less than 60 mol%, the basic physical properties such as the strong elongation of the obtained composite fiber cannot be sufficiently maintained. When the ethylene terephthalate unit exceeds 99.5 mol% and the isophthalic acid ethylene diester does not reach 0.5 mol%, the crimping rate is not increased when the composite fiber absorbs moisture (the appearance of the crimped yarn) The length is not shortened. When it is used as a cloth, there is a problem that sufficient low gas permeability cannot be obtained. -25- 201009148 When ethylene phthalate exceeds 40 mol%, basic properties such as strong elongation of composite fibers cannot be maintained, thermal stability is also deteriorated, and spinning is caused by decomposing foreign matter in the spinning step. The filtration pressure (· filling pressure) of the nozzle portion of the wire mouth is significantly increased. _ These polyesters can be manufactured by any method. For example, for example, polyethylene terephthalate-ethylene formate is directly esterified with terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol. Direct esterification of dimethyl terephthalate lower alkyl ester with ethylene glycol, or reaction of terephthalic acid with ethylene oxide, @ produces terephthalic acid glycol esters and / or its oligomerization Things. The product is then heated under reduced pressure and polycondensed to a desired degree of polymerization to form a bismuth phthalate component and ethylene phthalate component. In addition, a third component may be copolymerized, and the third component is preferably any of a dicarboxylic acid component or a diol component. As the dicarboxylic acid component, for example, phthalic acid, dibromoterephthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethane dicarboxylic acid, such as hydroxydecyl ethoxylate can be exemplified. A difunctional aromatic dicarboxylic acid of benzoic acid, such as a difunctional aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as azelaic acid, adipic acid or oxalic acid, or 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid. Further, a part of the above diol component may be substituted with other diol components, such as cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, neopentyl glycol, bisphenol A, bisphenol S, 2, for example. 2-bis(4-indole-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane, bis(4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)anthracene, 2,2-bis(3,5-dibromo-4-(2-) An aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic diol of hydroxyethoxy)phenyl)propane. Further, in the above polyester, a small amount of the other polymerized -26-201009148 may be blended as needed, and a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane or trimellitic acid may be used in a small amount. In addition, the polyester of the present invention may of course be added with a pigment such as titanium oxide or carbon black, a conventional antioxidant, and an anti-coloring agent in the same manner as the general polyester. The polyester component preferably contains a polyether ester decylamine. When the polyether ester decylamine is contained in the polyester component, the polyester component becomes soft, and when the polyamine component swells during moisture absorption, the polyester component is easily followed, and the shrinkage rate during moisture absorption is easily improved. Therefore, it is better. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably added to the polyester component in an amount of 5 to 55% by weight based on the weight of the polyester component. When it is less than 5% by weight, when the composite fiber absorbs moisture, the crimp ratio does not increase (the length of the crimped fiber is difficult to be shortened), and when it is used as a cloth, there is a problem that sufficient gas permeability cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when it exceeds 55% by weight, there is a problem that the spinning cannot be stably performed. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably an ethylene oxide adduct of a bisphenol having a number average molecular weight of 500 to 5,000 having a carboxyl group at both terminals and a bisphenol having a number average molecular weight of 1,600 to 3,000 ( b) derived. "Derivative" means 'the person who reacts the two components, or the one obtained by copolymerization. • The polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is preferably composed of a polyamine moiety and a molecular weight modifier. The polyamine moiety is composed of at least one of (1) an indoleamine ring-opening polymer, (2) a polycondensate of an aminocarboxylic acid, or (3) a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine. Examples of the guanamine in '(1) are butyrolactam, valeroinamide, caprolactam, heptanoin, dodecane decylamine, undecane decylamine and the like. The aminocarboxylic acid of (2) is exemplified by ω-aminohexanoic acid, ω-amino heptanoic acid, ω-aminooctanoic acid, ω-amino decanoic acid -27-201009148, 11-aminoundecanoic acid, 12-aminododecanoic acid and the like. The (3) dicarboxylic acid is exemplified by adipic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, isophthalic acid and the like. Further, the diamine of (3) is exemplified by tetramethylene diamine, pentamethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, heptamethylenediamine, octamethylenediamine, and decamethylene. Amines, etc. The above-mentioned indoleamine, aminocarboxylic acid-, dicarboxylic acid, and diamine are collectively referred to as a polyamidamine moiety-forming monomer. _ The above-mentioned polyamine moiety which is a polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals The exemplified ones of the forming monomers may also be used in combination of two or more types. The preferred ones are hexamethyleneamine, 12-aminododecanoic acid and adipic acid-hexamethylenediamine, the most preferred being caprolactam. The polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends thereof further uses a dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms as a molecular weight modifier, and in the presence of the above, the polyformamide moiety is formed by a conventional method. The monomers are obtained by ring opening polymerization or polycondensation. Examples of the dicarboxylic acid having a carbon number of 4 to 20 are succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, or dodecane two. Fatty acid dicarboxylic acid; aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, phthalic acid or naphthalene dicarboxylic acid; anthracene, 4-cyclohexane hexane dicarboxylic acid, or bicyclic ring An aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as hexyl-4,4.dicarboxylic acid; or an alkali metal 5-sulfoisophthalate such as sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate or potassium 5-sulfoisophthalate Wait. Among these, preferred are aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, aromatic dicarboxylic acids, and alkali metal salts of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid. More preferably, it is adipic acid, terephthalic acid, or sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate. When the polyamidene moiety forming monomer is subjected to ring-opening polymerization or polycondensation by a conventional method, the average degree of polymerization is preferably from 2 to 10, more preferably the average poly--28-201009148 is from 3 to 8. As a result, the polyamine moiety has a number average molecular weight of from 100 to 1,000', more preferably from 300 to 700. Further, the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends thereof is a component which imparts a polyamine moiety to the both ends of the dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms of the molecular weight modifier; The component of the amine moiety may alternatively be a mixture of a component which imparts a polyamine moiety to the terminal end and a component which imparts a polyamine moiety to the single terminal. In the case of a mixture, the component which imparts a polyfluorene amide moiety to the monomolecular terminal at one end, and the component which gives the polyamine moiety at both ends, is preferably 1 to 10 moles. More preferably, the component imparted to the single terminal with respect to 1 mole is provided with a component of 3 to 8 moles at both ends. Therefore, the amount of the carboxyl group-containing component of the above polyamine moiety-forming monomer can be appropriately adjusted so as to have a mercapto group at both ends. If only indoleamine and/or amino decanoic acid is used as the polyamine moiety-forming monomer, since the molecular weight modifier is a dicarboxylic acid component, a polyamine amine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be easily produced (a) ). When a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine is used as a polyimide moiety-forming monomer, for example, a polyamine which has a carboxyl group at both terminals can be produced by a method such as a reaction of a polymer which finally changes a dicarboxylic acid (a) ). The number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is usually from 500 to 5,000, preferably from 500 to 3,000. When the number average molecular weight is less than 500, the heat resistance of the polyether ester guanamine itself is lowered. On the other hand, when the reactivity exceeds 5,000, the polyether ester guanamine takes a longer time to manufacture. In order to make the number average molecular weight fall within the range, a dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms may be selected as the molecular weight modifier, and the reaction conditions may be appropriately set in the polymerization of the polyamine moiety. -29- 201009148 In addition, in the bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adduct (b), the bisphenols are exemplified by bisphenol A (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-propane), double Phenol F (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenylmethane), bisphenol s (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl maple.) and 4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-butane Wait. The preferred of these is bisphenol A. The above-mentioned double-cooled ethylene oxide adduct (b) is obtained by a method of adding ethylene oxide to the bisphenols. In addition, ethylene oxide and other alkylene oxides (propylene oxide, 12-butylene oxide, 1,4-1,4-butylene or the like) can be used, but the amount of other alkylene oxide used is all The weight of the oxygen hospital is based on 10% by weight or less. Further, the above-mentioned adduct (b) corresponds to two hydroxyl groups of bisphenols, and it is preferred to polymerize ethylene oxide having an average of 20 to 70 mols and other alkylene oxides (hereinafter referred to as ethylene oxide). . More preferably, it is a polymerization of 3 2 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide. That is, the hydroxy polymerization (addition) corresponding to bisphenol has an adduct of 10 to 35 moles, preferably 16 to 30 moles, more preferably 16 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide. . © The above-mentioned adduct (b) has a number average molecular weight of usually ^600^3,000 Å, especially in the case of using an epoxy oxime addition molar number of 32 to 60. If the 'number average molecular weight is less than 1,600, the antistatic property is insufficient. On the other hand, when it exceeds 3,000', the polyether ester guanamine is required to be produced for a long period of time due to a decrease in reactivity. The number average molecular weight is preferably from 1,800 to 2,400, and the addition molar number of the epoxy enamel or the like is preferably from 32 to 40. When the number average molecular weight is within this range, the molecular weight of the bisphenols is considered to be achieved by adjusting the molar number of addition of ethylene oxide or the like. -30- 201009148 The above adduct (b) is used in the range of 20 to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b) in the polyether ester guanamine. If the amount of the adduct (b) is less than 20% by weight, the antistatic property of the polyetheresteramine is deteriorated, and on the other hand, when it exceeds 80% by weight, the heat resistance of the polyetheresteramine is lowered. good. More preferably, the adduct (b) is used in the range of 40 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b). The relative viscosity of the polyether ester guanamine used in the present invention is 1.5 to 3.5 (0.5% by weight, m-cresol solution, 25 ° C), preferably 2.0 to 3.0. If it is less than 1.5, since the difference in melt viscosity between the base polymer component (polyamide component and polyester component) during kneading is large, it tends to stay in the inside of the tube or in the spinning unit, and spinning for a long time is likely to cause abnormal discharge. The quality of the obtained composite fiber is unstable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 3.5, it will become a cause of yarn breakage during yarn production. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably added to the polyamidene component in an amount of 〇% by weight. When added in a small amount, the hygroscopic elongation of the polyamide component is lowered, and the function of shrinking the moisture at the time of moisture absorption which is the object of the present invention and shrinking the length of the appearance yarn is impaired. The parallel type conjugate fiber may have any fineness, cross-sectional shape, or composite form, and is preferably about 1.5 to 5. Odtex as a single fiber fineness. Further, when the conjugate fiber of the present invention is a hollow conjugate fiber, the sensitivity to humidity is increased, and the bulkiness is also increased. Further, the area ratio of the cross section of the composite fiber of the polyamide component and the polyester component is preferably in the range of polyamine component/polyester component = 30/70 to 70/30, more preferably 40/60 to 60. /40 range. When the conjugate fiber is a multifilament of a plurality of filaments, the total fineness of the multifilament -31 - 201009148 is not particularly limited, but it can be used in the range of 40 to 200 dtex as a material for general clothing. Moreover, the interlacing process can also be performed as needed. - The above composite fiber has a potential crimping property, and as described later, exhibits a potential crimping property upon heat treatment such as dyeing processing. Therefore, when moisture is absorbed, the polyamine component is swollen and stretched, and the polyester component hardly causes the length to change, so that the crimp ratio is improved (the appearance length of the crimped fiber A is shortened). On the other hand, since the polyamide component shrinks during drying, the polyester component hardly changes in the yield, so that the crimp ratio is lowered (the length of the crimped fiber A becomes long).
上述之捲縮纖維A在吸濕時由於捲縮率容易提高,因 此以無撚絲或進行300T/m以下撚絲之弱撚絲較佳。尤其 ’以無撚絲較佳。如強撚絲般,若賦予強撚絲,吸濕時之 捲縮率不易提高而不佳。又,即使以使交織數成爲20~60 個/m左右之方式進行經緯交錯空氣加工及/或施以—般假 撚捲縮加工亦無妨。 G 本發明之布料中’上述之捲縮纖維A相對於布料重量 以含有10重量%以上較佳。布料亦可僅以上述捲縮纖維A ' 構成’亦可爲除上述捲縮纖維A以外,含有非捲縮或吸濕 時捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之纖維B作爲其他纖維。該等 纖維B可爲一種以上,亦可爲兩種以上。其中「吸濕時之 捲縮率無變化」爲吸濕時之捲縮率HC與乾燥時之捲縮率 〇(:之差(11(:-0〇未達0.5%者。 該等纖維B若爲聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯、聚對苯二甲酸 -32- 201009148 三亞甲酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二酯等聚酯、尼龍6、尼龍66 等聚醯胺、聚乙烯、聚丙烯等聚烯烴、丙烯酸、對型或間 . 型芳醯胺、及該等之經改質合成纖維、天然纖維、再生纖 _ 維、半合成纖維、聚胺基甲酸酯系彈性絲、非吸水性聚醚 - 酯系彈性絲、吸水性聚醚酯系彈性絲等適用於衣料之纖維 . 則可自由選擇。其中,就吸濕時之尺寸安定性、或與上述 捲縮纖維A之相容性(混纖性、交編·交織性、染色性) φ 方面而言’以由聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯、聚對苯二甲酸丙二 酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二酯,或於該等中共聚合上述共聚合 成分而成之經改質聚酯組成之聚酯纖維較佳。又,若纖維 B爲聚胺基甲酸酯系彈性絲、非吸水性聚醚酯系彈性絲、 吸水性聚醚酯系彈性絲等斷裂伸長度300%以上之彈性纖 維,則利用彈性纖維之彈性回復性可提高布料密度,可降 低乾燥時之透氣性故而較佳。例如,若彈性纖維於伸長狀 態下製編織布料’則因彈性纖維之彈性回復作用引起收縮 而使布料密度提高。又’該等纖維B之單絲纖度、單絲數 (纖絲數)並無特別限制,但就提高布料之吸水性、吸濕 • 時之透氣性能易於降低方面而言,單絲纖度較好爲 0_l~5dtex (更好ldtex以下,又更好〇jMhex),單絲 數較好爲1〜200條(更好30條以上,又更好3〇〜1〇〇條) 之範圍內。尤其’以單絲纖度i dtex以下且單絲數3〇條 以上之多纖絲較佳。又,施以經緯交錯空氣加工以使交織 數成爲20〜60個/m左右及/或施以通常假撚捲縮加工以使 捲縮率成爲5~40%亦無妨。 -33- 201009148 本發明之布料中,作爲布料構造,其編織組織、層數 並無特別限制。例如,較佳例示爲平織、綾織、緞織等織 組織,或平針組織、雙羅紋、圓形羅紋、集圈網眼、添紗 編織、經平組織、半畦編等之編組織,但不限於該等者。 層數可爲單層,亦可爲兩層以上之多層。 - 以下針對本發明之布料中,包含上述吸濕時之捲縮率 獲得提高之捲縮纖維A,與非捲縮或吸濕時之捲縮率無變 化之具有捲縮之纖維B之情況之上述捲縮纖維A與纖維Β φ 配置之較佳實施樣態加以說明。 首先,實施樣態(1)中,將上述捲縮纖維A與纖維 B對齊,配置於織物之經絲及/或緯絲,或編物中。該等構 造在吸濕時由於僅捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變短,因此使布 料之密度提高(空隙率降低)而使透氣性降低。 接著,實施樣態(2)中,以上述捲縮纖維A與纖維 B作爲布料之構成絲條,使二者交互配置。此時,捲縮纖 維A與纖維B可爲一條交叉、複數條交叉、一條:複數條 @ 交叉、複數條:一條交叉、該等之組合等任一種之配置。 ' 該等構造由於吸濕時僅捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變短,因此 · 使布料密度提高(空隙率降低)而使透氣性降低。 接著,實施樣態(3)中,上述捲縮纖維A與纖維B 係以上述捲縮纖維A位在芯部且纖維B位在鞘部之芯鞘型 複合絲包含於布料中。該等構造由於吸濕時僅捲縮纖維A 之外觀長度變短,因此使布料密度提高(空隙率降低)而 使透氣性降低。 -34- 201009148 接著’實施樣態(4)中,布料爲具有兩層以上之多 層構造之多層構造布料,且至少一層中構成該層之總纖維 - 重量中之30重量%以上爲上述捲縮纖維A。該等構造由於 吸濕時僅捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變短,因此使布料密度提 - 高(空隙率降低)而使透氣性降低。 . 本發明之布料可藉由例如下述製造方法容易地獲得。 首先,亦即將上述聚醯胺成分與聚酯成分複合紡絲成 φ 並列型。此時,例如可如特開2000-1445 1 8號公報中所記 載’使用將高黏度成分側與低黏度成分側之吐出孔分離, 且使高黏度側之吐出線速度較小(吐出面積增大)之紡絲 模嘴,藉由使熔融聚酯通過高黏度側吐出孔及使熔融聚酿 胺通過低黏度側吐出孔側並接合,且經冷卻固化之方法獲 得紡絲條。又本發明中,藉由適當設計此時之紡絲模嘴, 作爲並列型中空複合纖維亦可。紡絲所得之絲條除在暫且 捲取後將其延伸且進而視需要進行熱處理之所謂分別延伸 Φ 方式以外,亦可採用暫且不捲取未延伸絲下延伸且進而視 需要進行熱處理之所謂直接延伸方式中之方法。上述紡絲 * 中紡絲速度可採用例如通常採用之1000〜3500m/分鐘左右 之紡絲速度者。又,延伸、熱處理係設定在延伸後之切斷 伸長度爲10〜60%,通常爲20~45%左右之條件下,因捲縮 之表現、製編織性等而言爲較佳。 接著,可單獨使用上述複合纖維’或者同時使用上述 複合纖維與非捲縮或吸濕時捲縮率無變化之纖維B織編成 布料後,施以染色加工,藉由染色加工時之熱使上述複合 -35- 201009148 纖維展現潛在捲縮(稱爲捲縮纖維A)。 其中,織編成布料時,織編組織並無特別限制,可適 當選定上述者。 上述染色加工之溫度爲100~140°C (更好爲110〜135 °C )’時間以最高溫度之保持時間在5〜40分鐘之範圍內 較佳。在該等條件下,藉由對布料施以染色加工,上述複 合纖維可藉由聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分之熱收縮差而展現捲 施以染色加工之布料通常係實施乾熱最終定型。此時 ,乾熱最終定型之溫度以120~200°C (更好爲140〜180°C ),時間以1 ~3分鐘之範圍內較佳。但,當乾熱最終定型 之溫度低於120 °C時,容易殘留染色加工時產生之摺痕, 又,會有完工製品之尺寸安定性不良之問題。相反地,當 乾熱最終定型之溫度高於200 °C時,染色加工時展現之複 合纖維捲縮降低,有使纖維硬化且原布料質地變硬之情況 〇 如此獲得之布料中,就乾燥時之透氣性變小且防風性 或耐漏水性提高,布料爲以下述定義之覆蓋因子CF (乾 燥時)爲2000~4500之範圍內之織物,或者爲40縱列針 數(wale) /2.5 4 cm以上(更好爲50縱列針數/2.5 4 cm以 上)且50橫列針數(course) /2.54cm以上(更好爲60 橫列針數/2.54cm以上)之編物。 CF=(DWp/l.l) 1/2xMWp+ ( DWf/1 .1 ) 1/2xMWf -36- 201009148 其中,DWp爲經絲總纖度(dtex ) ’ MWp爲經 密度(條/2.54cm ) ’ DWf爲緯絲總纖度(dtex ) ’ 爲緯絲織密度(條/2.54cm) ° 另外,對布料進一步實施加熱加壓加工(軋光加 或撥水加工,可使乾燥時之透氣性變小’且防風性或 水性提高而較佳。再者,亦可附加使用慣用方法之鹼 加工、吸水加工、起毛加工、紫外線遮蔽或抗菌劑、 劑、防蟲劑、蓄光劑、逆反射劑、負離子發生劑等賦 能之各種加工。 如此般獲得之布料,由於布料中含有吸濕時捲縮 得提高(外觀長度變短)之纖維,因此吸濕時布料之 提高(空隙率降低)而使透氣性降低。另一方面,乾 布料密度降低(空隙率提高)使透氣性提高。 此時,乾燥時布料之透氣性以50cc/cm2/s以下( 4〇CC/cm2/s以下)較佳。又,以下述式定義,吸濕時 透氣性降低率以1 〇%以上(較好3 0%以上更好3 5 %以 較佳。 透氣性降低率(% ) = ( APD-APH ) /APDx 1 00 其中,APD爲乾燥時布料之透氣性(cc/cm2/s ΑΡΗ爲吸濕時布料之透氣性(cc/cm2/s)。 又,本發明之布料由於吸濕時之織編密度獲得提 絲織 MWf 工) 耐漏 減量 消臭 予機 率獲 密度 燥時 較好 布料 上) 高而 -37- 201009148 具有優異之耐漏水性。此時,布料之漏水性以2000ee以 下較佳。 其中’漏水性係使用JIS L 1 092, 6.3 (雨試驗A法) . 之Bundesmann雨試驗裝置’測定設定成總水量7升/分鐘 於10分鐘內之漏水量。 又’依據本發明係提供一種使用上述之布料而成,且 _ 選自由外衣用衣料、運動用衣料及內襯用衣料組成之群組 織纖維製品。該等纖維製品係包含上述布料,由於吸濕時 參 透氣性降低’因此穿著該等纖維製品時,在雨或雪落在纖 維製品上時’纖維製品之保暖性獲得提高,可獲得耐漏水 性提高之效果。 以下就上述20〜28相關之本發明實施形態加以詳細說 明。 本發明之布料有必要爲以濕潤時捲縮率獲得提高之捲 縮纖維A (以下有時亦簡稱爲「捲縮纖維a」或「纖維A 」)與非捲縮或濕潤時捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之纖維B © (以下有時亦簡稱爲「纖維B」)構成。布料因出汗或降 雨而吸濕時,因布料中僅所含捲縮纖維A之捲縮量獲得提 _ 高而使外觀長度變短。其結果,由於吸濕時布料厚度有部 分變厚(亦即出現凹凸),因此在布料與皮膚之間產生空 隙而提高防透明性。 此時,可自該布料之乾燥時之厚度(TD)與濕潤時之 厚度(TW),以下式計算出厚度之變化率,重要地是該 厚度變化率在5%以上(較好爲10~100% )。當該等厚度 -38 - 201009148 變化率差未達5%時,無法充分展現吸濕時之防透明性而 不佳。 厚度變化率(%) =( (TW-TD) /TD) χίοο 其中,所謂乾燥時之厚度係將布料置於溫度20°C、濕 度65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度,另一方 φ 面,所謂吸濕時之厚度係將布料置於溫度20 °C、濕度 90%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度。又,厚度 爲測定圖4中所示之布料之最高部分與最低部分之距離Η 者。另外,可使用超高精密雷射變位計(KEYENCE公司 製造之型號LC-2400 )測定。 另外,本發明中所謂「吸濕時之捲縮率獲得提高」爲 濕潤時之捲縮率HC與乾燥時之捲縮率DC之差(HC-DC )在0.5%以上者。其中,所謂乾燥時係將布料置於溫度 φ 20°C、濕度65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態,另一方面, 所謂吸濕時係將布料置於溫度20°C、濕度90%RH環境下 • 24小時後之狀態。 本發明中,捲縮纖維A只要是吸濕時捲縮率獲得提高 之纖維則無特別限制,但以將聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分接合 成並列型而成之複合纖維,且展現潛在捲縮性能之具有捲 縮構造之捲縮纖維較佳。 其中,上述聚醯胺成分爲主鏈中具有醯胺鍵之聚合物 ,舉例爲例如尼龍4、尼龍6、尼龍12、尼龍46、尼龍66 -39- 201009148 等。尤其是就成本面、廣用性、製絲性等觀點而言,以尼 龍6、尼龍66較佳。又,該等聚醯胺成分亦可共聚合以基 劑而習知之成分,或者亦可在該等聚醯胺成分中含有氧化 - 鈦或碳黑等顏料、習知抗氧化劑、抗靜電劑、耐光劑等。 另一方面,上述聚酯成分較好係由構成聚酯之重複單 - 位中對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有60〜99.5莫耳%,及間苯 _ 二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有0.5〜40莫耳%之共聚合聚酯所構成 。通常,聚酯之熱收縮率比聚醯胺低,但可藉由採用該等 © 共聚合聚酯作爲聚酯而使聚酯之熱收縮率接近聚醯胺。其 結果,吸濕時之捲縮彎曲構造中,易成爲經膨潤之聚醯胺 成分位在外側,聚酯成分位在內側之構造,使捲縮率易於 增大。其中,當對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位未達60莫耳%時, 由於無法充分保持所得複合纖維之強伸長度之基本物性而 不佳。當對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位超過99.5莫耳%,間苯二 甲酸乙二酯未達0.5莫耳%時,複合纖維吸濕時捲縮率不 太增大(捲縮絲之外觀長度不變短),而有布料難以展現 © 足夠防透明性之情況。當間苯二甲酸乙二酯超過40莫耳% 時,無法保持複合纖維之強伸長度等之基本物性,又熱安 ' 定性亦劣化,於製絲步驟中由於分解性異物而有紡絲模嘴 部分之過濾壓(充塡壓力)顯著上升之情況。 該等聚酯可爲以任意方法製造者,例如若對聚對苯二 甲酸乙二酯加以說明,爲使對苯二甲酸與乙二醇直接酯化 反應,使如對苯二甲酸二甲酯之對苯二甲酸低級烷酯與乙 二醇直接酯化反應,或使對苯二甲酸與環氧乙烷反應等, -40- 201009148 生成對苯二甲酸之二醇酯及/或其低聚合物。接著藉由使 該生成物在減壓下加熱且聚縮合反應至所需聚合度而製造 〇 又,該聚酯除構成聚酯之對苯二甲酸乙二酯成分及間 • 苯二甲酸乙二酯成分以外,亦可共聚合第三種成分,該第 三種成分較好爲二羧酸成分或二醇成分之任一種。至於該 等二羧酸成分可舉例爲例如鄰苯二甲酸、二溴對苯二甲酸 Φ 、萘二羧酸、二苯基二羧酸、二苯氧基乙烷二羧酸、如β-羥基乙氧基苯甲酸之二官能性芳香族二羧酸、如癸二酸、 己二酸、草酸之二官能性脂肪族二羧酸、1,4-環己烷二羧 酸等。又亦可以其他二醇成分取代上述二醇成分之一部分 ,該等二醇成分舉例爲例如如環己烷-1,4·二甲醇、新戊二 醇、雙酚Α、雙酚S、2,2-雙(4-β-羥基乙氧基苯基)丙烷 、雙(4-β-羥基乙氧基苯基)颯、2,2-雙(3,5-二溴-4-( 2_羥基乙氧基)苯基)丙烷之脂肪族、脂環族、芳香族之 • 二醇。另外,上述聚酯中可依據需要少量摻合熔融其他聚 合物者,亦可爲少量地使用季戊四醇、三羥甲基丙烷、偏 ' 苯三酸等鏈分支劑者。除此之外,本發明之聚酯當然亦與 一般聚酯同樣添加二氧化鈦、碳黑等顏料,習知之抗氧化 劑、抗變色劑。 該聚酯成分中較好含有聚醚酯醯胺。當聚酯成分中含 有聚醚酯醯胺時,聚酯成分變柔軟,吸濕時,在聚醯胺成 分膨潤之際使聚酯成分易於追隨,使吸濕時之捲縮率易於 增大而較佳。該聚醚酯醯胺對聚酯成分之添加量相對於聚 -41 - 201009148 酯成分重量以5〜55重量%較佳。若未達5重量%,則複合 纖維吸濕時,捲縮率不太增大(捲縮纖維的外觀長度難以 變短)’作爲布料時會有無法獲得足夠防透明性之情況。 另外,當超過55重量%時,有無法穩定紡絲之情況。 該聚醚酯醯胺較好爲由兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子 - 量500~5,000之聚醯胺(a)與數平均分子量1,600〜3,000 之雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)所衍生。「衍生」意指 使兩種成分反應獲得者,亦可表示經共聚合而得者。 Θ 兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)較好係由聚醯胺部分 與分子量調節劑構成者。該聚醯胺部分係由(1)內醯胺 開環聚合物、(2)胺基羧酸之聚縮合物,或(3)二羧酸 與二胺之聚縮合物之至少任一種所構成,該等中,(1)The above-mentioned crimped fiber A is likely to be improved in shrinkage rate at the time of moisture absorption, and therefore it is preferable to use a non-twisted yarn or a weak twisted yarn of 300 T/m or less. In particular, it is preferable to use no silk. If it is strong silk, if the strong silk is given, the shrinkage rate during moisture absorption is not easy to improve. Further, even if the number of interlaces is about 20 to 60 pieces/m, the warp and weft interlaced air processing and/or the general false twisting processing may be performed. In the fabric of the present invention, the crimped fiber A is preferably contained in an amount of 10% by weight or more based on the weight of the fabric. The cloth may be composed only of the crimped fibers A', or may be a crimped fiber B having no crimping or moisture absorption, and the crimped fibers B, which are not crimped or moisture-absorbent, may be used as the other fibers. These fibers B may be one type or more, or two or more types. Among them, "there is no change in the crimping rate during moisture absorption" is the crimping rate HC during moisture absorption and the crimping ratio during drying : (: the difference (11 (: -0 〇 is less than 0.5%. The fiber B If it is polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate-32- 201009148 trimethyl ester, polybutylene terephthalate and other polyester, nylon 6, nylon 66, etc. Polyamide, polyethylene, poly Polyolefin such as propylene, acrylic acid, p-type or meta-type arylamine, and such modified synthetic fiber, natural fiber, regenerated fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, polyurethane-based elastic yarn, non- A water-absorbing polyether-ester-based elastic yarn, a water-absorbent polyether ester-based elastic yarn, or the like which is suitable for use in a clothing material, and can be freely selected, and the dimensional stability in the case of moisture absorption or the phase of the crimped fiber A described above. Capacitive (mixing, interlacing, interlacing, dyeing) φ In terms of 'polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, Or a polyester fiber composed of the modified polyester obtained by co-polymerizing the above copolymerized component, and if the fiber B is a polyamine group The elastic fiber having an elongation at break of 300% or more, such as an acid ester-based elastic yarn, a non-water-absorbing polyether ester-based elastic yarn, or a water-absorbing polyether ester-based elastic yarn, can increase the fabric density by utilizing the elastic recovery property of the elastic fiber, and can be lowered. The air permeability during drying is preferred. For example, if the elastic fiber is woven in an elongated state, the fabric is densified due to the elastic recovery of the elastic fiber, and the density of the fabric is increased. The number of filaments (the number of filaments) is not particularly limited, but in terms of improving the water absorption of the fabric, and the hygroscopic property of the moisture absorption, the single filament fineness is preferably from 0 to 1 to 5 dtex (more preferably, less than ldtex, and more). Good 〇 jMhex), the number of filaments is preferably in the range of 1 to 200 (more preferably 30 or more, and more preferably 3 〇 to 1 〇〇). In particular, the single filament fineness i dtex and the number of filaments More than 3 filaments are preferred. Further, warp and weft interlaced air is applied to make the number of interlaces to be about 20 to 60/m and/or to apply a normal false twist crimping process so that the crimp ratio becomes 5~ 40% is also fine. -33- 201009148 In the fabric of the present invention, The cloth structure and the number of layers are not particularly limited. For example, a plain weave, a woven fabric, a satin weave or the like, or a plain stitch structure, a double rib, a circular rib, a tuck mesh, and a woven weave are preferably exemplified. The composition of the flat structure, the semi-twisting, etc., but not limited to the ones. The number of layers may be a single layer or a plurality of layers of two or more layers. - The following fabrics for the present invention include the above moisture absorption A preferred embodiment of the above-described crimped fiber A and fiber φ φ arrangement in the case of a crimped fiber A having an increased crimp ratio and a crimped fiber B having no change in crimping or moisture absorption First, in the embodiment (1), the crimped fiber A is aligned with the fiber B, and placed in the warp and/or weft of the fabric or in the braid. In such a configuration, since only the appearance length of the crimped fiber A is shortened at the time of moisture absorption, the density of the cloth is increased (the void ratio is lowered) and the gas permeability is lowered. Next, in the embodiment (2), the crimped fibers A and the fibers B are used as the constituent yarns of the cloth, and the two are alternately arranged. At this time, the crimped fiber A and the fiber B may be in the form of one intersection, a plurality of intersections, one: plural strips @cross, plural strips: one cross, and the combination of the above. In these structures, since only the appearance length of the crimped fibers A is shortened at the time of moisture absorption, the fabric density is increased (the void ratio is lowered) and the gas permeability is lowered. Next, in the embodiment (3), the crimped fiber A and the fiber B are contained in the fabric in which the crimped fiber A is positioned in the core portion and the fiber B is in the sheath portion. In these structures, since only the appearance length of the crimped fibers A is shortened at the time of moisture absorption, the fabric density is increased (the void ratio is lowered) and the gas permeability is lowered. -34- 201009148 Next, in the 'implementation mode (4), the cloth is a multi-layer structure fabric having a multilayer structure of two or more layers, and at least 30% by weight of the total fiber-weight constituting the layer in at least one layer is the above-mentioned crimp Fiber A. In these structures, since only the appearance length of the crimped fibers A is shortened at the time of moisture absorption, the fabric density is increased (the void ratio is lowered) and the gas permeability is lowered. The cloth of the present invention can be easily obtained by, for example, the following production method. First, the polyamine component and the polyester component are conjugated into a φ side-by-side type. In this case, for example, the high viscosity component side and the low viscosity component side discharge hole are separated, and the discharge speed of the high viscosity side is small (the discharge area is increased as described in JP-A-2000-1445-18). The spinning nozzle of the large one is obtained by passing the molten polyester through the high-viscosity side discharge hole and passing the molten polyamine to the side of the low-viscosity side discharge port and joining, and cooling and solidifying. Further, in the present invention, the spinning die at this time may be appropriately designed as a side-by-side hollow composite fiber. The yarn obtained by spinning may be used in the so-called separately extending Φ manner after the winding is temporarily taken up and then heat-treated as needed, and the so-called direct stretching without stretching the unstretched filament and then heat-treating as needed may be used. The method in the extension mode. The spinning speed in the above spinning * can be, for example, a spinning speed of usually about 1,000 to 3,500 m/min. Further, the elongation and the heat treatment are preferably set so that the elongation at break after stretching is from 10 to 60%, usually from about 20 to 45%, depending on the expression of the crimp, the braidability, and the like. Then, the above-mentioned conjugate fiber can be used alone or at the same time, the conjugate fiber can be woven into a cloth with a fiber B having no change in the crimp ratio at the time of non-coiling or moisture absorption, and then subjected to dyeing processing, which is caused by heat during dyeing processing. Composite -35- 201009148 The fiber exhibits a potential crimp (referred to as crimped fiber A). Among them, when weaving into a fabric, the weaving organization is not particularly limited, and the above may be appropriately selected. The temperature of the above dyeing process is preferably from 100 to 140 ° C (more preferably from 110 to 135 ° C). The retention time of the highest temperature is preferably in the range of from 5 to 40 minutes. Under these conditions, by subjecting the fabric to a dyeing process, the composite fiber can exhibit a dry heat final setting by exhibiting a difference in heat shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide component. At this time, the temperature at which the dry heat is finalized is 120 to 200 ° C (more preferably 140 to 180 ° C), and the time is preferably in the range of 1 to 3 minutes. However, when the temperature at which the dry heat is finalized is lower than 120 °C, the crease generated during the dyeing process tends to remain, and the dimensional stability of the finished product may be poor. On the contrary, when the temperature at which the dry heat is finalized is higher than 200 ° C, the shrinkage of the composite fiber exhibited during the dyeing process is lowered, and the fiber is hardened and the texture of the original fabric is hardened. The gas permeability is reduced and the windproof property or the water leakage resistance is improved, and the fabric is a fabric having a coverage factor CF (when dry) of 2000 to 4500, or a 40-row needle number / 2.5 4 More than cm (more preferably 50 vertical stitches / 2.5 4 cm or more) and 50 courses of stitches (course) / 2.54 cm or more (more preferably 60 courses of needles / 2.54 cm or more). CF=(DWp/ll) 1/2xMWp+ ( DWf/1 .1 ) 1/2xMWf -36- 201009148 where DWp is the total fineness of the warp (dtex ) ' MWp is the density (bar / 2.54cm ) ' DWf is the weft The total fineness (dtex) of the silk is the weft density (bar/2.54cm). In addition, the fabric is further subjected to heat and pressure processing (calendering or water-repellent processing to make the gas permeability during drying smaller) and windproof It is preferable to use the conventional method for alkali processing, water absorption processing, raising processing, ultraviolet shielding or antibacterial agent, agent, insect repellent, light storage agent, retroreflector, negative ion generator, etc. In the fabric obtained in this way, since the fabric contains a fiber which is curled up at the time of moisture absorption (the length of the appearance is shortened), the fabric is improved (the void ratio is lowered) during moisture absorption, and the gas permeability is lowered. On the other hand, the dry fabric density is lowered (the void ratio is increased) to improve the gas permeability. In this case, the gas permeability of the cloth during drying is preferably 50 cc/cm 2 /s or less (4 〇 CC / cm 2 /s or less). The definition of the formula, the rate of decrease in permeability during moisture absorption is more than 1% Preferably, 30% or more is more preferably 35%. Preferably, the gas permeability reduction rate (%) = (APD-APH) / APDx 1 00 wherein APD is the gas permeability of the cloth when dried (cc/cm2/s ΑΡΗ The moisture permeability (cc/cm2/s) of the fabric during moisture absorption. Moreover, the fabric of the present invention obtains the weaving density of the fabric due to the weaving density at the time of moisture absorption.) The leakage resistance is reduced and the deodorization is given to the machine. ) High -37- 201009148 Excellent water leakage resistance. At this time, the water leakage of the fabric is preferably 2000ee or less. Among them, 'leakage water is JIS L 1 092, 6.3 (rain test A method). Bundesmann rain test The device 'measures the water leakage amount set to a total water volume of 7 liters/min in 10 minutes. Further, according to the present invention, there is provided a cloth using the above-mentioned cloth, and _ selected for the outer garment material, the sports clothing material and the inner lining clothing material. A group of fibrous products comprising the above-mentioned fabrics, which have a reduced gas permeability due to moisture absorption. Therefore, when the fibers are worn, when the rain or snow falls on the fibrous products, the warmth of the fibrous products is obtained. Improve, get leak-proof The effect of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention relating to the above 20 to 28. The fabric of the present invention is required to be a crimped fiber A which is improved in the crimp ratio at the time of wetting (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "coiled" The fiber a" or "fiber A" is composed of a crimped fiber B (not sometimes referred to as "fiber B") which has no change in the crimping rate when it is not crimped or wet. The cloth is sweaty or rainy. In the case of moisture absorption, the shrinkage amount of only the crimped fibers A contained in the cloth is increased to make the appearance length shorter. As a result, since the thickness of the cloth is partially thickened (i.e., unevenness occurs) during moisture absorption, a gap is formed between the cloth and the skin to improve the transparency. At this time, the thickness change rate (TD) at the time of drying and the thickness (TW) at the time of wetting can be calculated from the following formula, and it is important that the thickness change rate is 5% or more (preferably 10~). 100%). When the difference in the thickness of -38 - 201009148 is less than 5%, the transparency at the time of moisture absorption cannot be sufficiently exhibited, which is not preferable. Thickness change rate (%) = ( (TW-TD) / TD) χίοο where the thickness during drying is the thickness of the cloth in a state where the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. The other side is the φ surface, and the thickness at the time of moisture absorption is the thickness of the cloth in a state where the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours. Further, the thickness is the distance between the highest portion and the lowest portion of the cloth shown in Fig. 4. In addition, it can be measured using an ultra-high precision laser displacement gauge (Model LC-2400 manufactured by KEYENCE Corporation). Further, in the present invention, "the increase in the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption" is such that the difference (HC-DC) between the crimp ratio HC at the time of wetting and the crimp ratio DC at the time of drying is 0.5% or more. In the case of drying, the cloth is placed in a state of temperature φ 20 ° C and humidity 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, when the moisture is absorbed, the cloth is placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH. In the environment • State after 24 hours. In the present invention, the crimped fiber A is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption, but a composite fiber obtained by joining a polyester component and a polyamide component into a side-by-side type, and exhibiting a potential roll A crimped fiber having a crimped configuration is preferred. The polyamine component is a polymer having a guanamine bond in the main chain, and examples thereof include, for example, nylon 4, nylon 6, nylon 12, nylon 46, nylon 66-39-201009148, and the like. In particular, Nylon 6 and nylon 66 are preferable from the viewpoints of cost, versatility, and yarn-making properties. Further, the polyamine components may be copolymerized with a conventional component, or may contain a pigment such as oxidized-titanium or carbon black, a conventional antioxidant, an antistatic agent, or the like. Light stabilizer, etc. On the other hand, the above polyester component preferably accounts for 60 to 99.5 mol% of the repeating single-position ethylene terephthalate unit constituting the polyester, and the isophthalic acid dicarboxylate unit accounts for 0.5~. 40 mole % of copolymerized polyester. Generally, the heat shrinkage of the polyester is lower than that of the polyamine, but the heat shrinkage of the polyester can be brought close to the polyamine by using the copolymerized polyester as the polyester. As a result, in the crimped and bent structure at the time of moisture absorption, it is easy to form a structure in which the swollen polyamine component is located outside and the polyester component is located inside, and the crimp ratio is likely to increase. Among them, when the unit of ethylene terephthalate is less than 60 mol%, it is not preferable because the basic physical properties of the strong elongation of the obtained conjugate fiber cannot be sufficiently maintained. When the ethylene terephthalate unit exceeds 99.5 mol% and the isophthalic acid ethylene diester does not reach 0.5 mol%, the crimping rate of the composite fiber is not increased when it absorbs moisture (the length of the crimped filament is not Shorten), and it is difficult to show the fabric © enough to prevent transparency. When the ethylene isophthalate exceeds 40 mol%, the basic physical properties such as the strong elongation of the composite fiber cannot be maintained, and the thermal stability is also deteriorated, and the spinning nozzle is formed due to the decomposable foreign matter in the spinning step. Part of the filtration pressure (filling pressure) increased significantly. The polyesters may be produced by any method, for example, if polyethylene terephthalate is described, in order to directly esterify terephthalic acid with ethylene glycol, such as dimethyl terephthalate Direct esterification of terephthalic acid lower alkyl ester with ethylene glycol, or reaction of terephthalic acid with ethylene oxide, etc., -40- 201009148 to produce terephthalic acid glycol ester and / or its oligomerization Things. The ruthenium is then produced by heating the product under reduced pressure and polycondensing to a desired degree of polymerization, in addition to the ethylene terephthalate component of the polyester and the phthalic acid phthalate. In addition to the ester component, a third component may be copolymerized, and the third component is preferably any of a dicarboxylic acid component or a diol component. As the dicarboxylic acid component, for example, phthalic acid, dibromo-terephthalic acid Φ, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyl dicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethane dicarboxylic acid, such as β-hydroxyl group can be exemplified. A difunctional aromatic dicarboxylic acid of ethoxybenzoic acid, such as a difunctional aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as azelaic acid, adipic acid or oxalic acid, or 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid. Further, a part of the above diol component may be substituted by other diol components, such as, for example, cyclohexane-1,4·dimethanol, neopentyl glycol, bisphenol oxime, bisphenol S, 2, 2-bis(4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane, bis(4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)anthracene, 2,2-bis(3,5-dibromo-4-( 2_ Aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols of hydroxyethoxy)phenyl)propane. Further, in the above polyester, a small amount of the other polymer may be blended as needed, and a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane or trimellitic acid may be used in a small amount. In addition, the polyester of the present invention is of course also added with a pigment such as titanium oxide or carbon black as in the conventional polyester, a conventional antioxidant and an anti-tarnishing agent. The polyester component preferably contains a polyether ester decylamine. When the polyester component contains a polyether ester decylamine, the polyester component becomes soft, and when moisture absorbing, the polyester component is easily followed when the polyamine component is swollen, and the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption is apt to increase. Preferably. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably added to the polyester component in an amount of 5 to 55% by weight based on the weight of the poly-41 - 201009148 ester component. If it is less than 5% by weight, the crimping rate does not increase when the composite fiber absorbs moisture (the length of the crimped fiber is difficult to be shortened). When the fabric is used, sufficient transparency can not be obtained. On the other hand, when it exceeds 55% by weight, there is a case where the spinning cannot be stabilized. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably an ethylene oxide addition of a polyamine (a) having a number average molecular weight of 500 to 5,000 at both terminals and a bisphenol having a number average molecular weight of 1,600 to 3,000. Derived from substance (b). "Derivative" means the one obtained by reacting two components, or the one obtained by copolymerization. The polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals is preferably composed of a polyamine moiety and a molecular weight modifier. The polyamine moiety is composed of at least one of (1) an indoleamine ring-opening polymer, (2) a polycondensate of an aminocarboxylic acid, or (3) a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine. , among these, (1)
之內醯胺舉例爲丁內醯胺、戊內醯胺、己內醯胺、庚內醯 胺、十二烷內醯胺、十一烷內醯胺等。(2)之胺基羧酸 舉例爲ω-胺基己酸、ω_胺基庚酸、ω_胺基辛酸、ω-胺基癸 酸、11-胺基十一烷酸、12-胺基十二烷酸等。(3)之二羧 G 酸舉例爲己二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二酸、十二烷 二酸、間苯二甲酸等。又(3)之二胺舉例爲四亞甲基二 胺、五亞甲基二胺、六亞甲基二胺、七亞甲基二胺、八亞 甲基二胺、十亞甲基二胺等。以上該等內醯胺、胺基羧酸 、二羧酸、二胺通稱爲聚醯胺部分形成性單體。 上述作爲兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之聚醯胺部 分形成性單體所例示者亦可兩種以上倂用。該等中較佳者 爲己內醯胺、12-胺基十二烷酸及己二酸-六亞甲基二胺, -42- 201009148 最佳者爲己內醯胺。 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)係進而使用碳數 . 4〜20之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,在該等存在下藉由 慣用之方法’使上述聚醢胺部分形成性單體經開環聚合或 . 聚縮合獲得。碳數4〜2 0之二羧酸舉例爲琥珀酸、戊二酸 ,、己二酸、庚二酸、辛二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二 酸、或十二烷二酸等脂肪酸二羧酸;對苯二甲酸、間苯二 φ 甲酸、鄰苯二甲酸、或萘二羧酸等芳香族二羧酸;1,4-環 己烷二羧酸、或二環己基-4,4-二羧酸等脂肪族二羧酸;或 5 -磺基間苯二甲酸鈉、或5 -磺基間苯二甲酸鉀等5 -磺基間 苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽等。該等中,較佳者爲脂肪族二羧酸、 芳香族二羧酸及5-磺基間苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽。更好爲己二 酸、對苯二甲酸、5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉。 以慣用之方法使聚醯胺部分形成性單體開環聚合或聚 縮合之際,其平均聚合度以2〜10時較佳,更好其平均聚 • 合度爲3~8。其結果該聚醯胺部分之數平均分子量爲 100〜1,000,更好爲 300〜700。 ' 再者上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)爲在分子量 調節劑的碳數4〜20之二羧酸成分之兩末端賦予聚醯胺部 分之成分,於單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分,或亦可爲兩 末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分及單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成 分之混合物。爲混合物時,相對於1莫耳單末端賦予聚醯 胺部分之成分,兩末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分成爲1〜10 莫耳而成之莫耳比較佳。更好爲相對於1莫耳之單末端賦 -43- 201009148 予之成分,兩末端賦予之成分爲3〜8莫耳。因此可適當的 調整上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體之具有羧基之成分之量以 使兩末端具有羧基。若僅使用內醯胺及/或胺基羧酸作爲 _ 聚醯胺部分形成性單體,則由於分子量調節劑爲二羧酸成 分,因此可輕易地製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺胺(a) . 。使用二羧酸與二胺之聚縮合物作爲聚醯胺部分形成性單 _ 體時,例如使用於聚合物之最終改變二羧酸之反應等方法 可製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a) 。 @ 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之數平均分子量 通常爲50 0~5,000,較好爲500〜3,000。數平均分子量未達 500時會使聚醚酯醯胺本身之耐熱性降低,另一方面,當 超過5,000時由於反應性降低,因此聚醚酯醯胺製造時需 要更長時間。爲了使數平均分子量落在該範圍內,可選擇 碳數4~2 0之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,亦可在聚醯 胺部分之聚合之際適當設定反應條件。 另外,雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)中,雙酚類舉 © 例爲雙酚A(4,4’-二羥基二苯基-2,2-丙烷)、雙酚F( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基甲烷)、雙酚S ( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基碾 )及4,4’-二羥基二苯基·2,2-丁烷等。該等中較佳者爲雙 酣A。 上述雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)係依慣用之方法 ,藉由將環氧乙烷加成於該等雙酚類上而得。又,亦可倂 用環氧乙烷與其他環氧烷(環氧丙烷、1,2-環氧丁烷、 1,4-環氧丁烷等)’但其他環氧烷之使用量以全部環氧乙 -44- 201009148 烷之重量爲準,通常在〗〇重量%以下。 又上述加成物(b)對應於雙酚類之兩個羥基,聚合 有平均20〜7 0莫耳之環氧乙烷、其他環氧烷(以下稱爲環 氧乙院等)之情況較佳。更好爲聚合有32〜60莫耳之環氧 乙院等之情況。亦即,對應於雙酚之—個羥基聚合(加成 )有10〜35莫耳,較好16〜30莫耳,更好16~20莫耳之環 氧乙院等而成之加成物。 上述加成物(b)之數平均分子量通常爲uoo — s,000 ’尤其是以使用環氧乙烷加成莫耳數爲32〜60者較佳。若 數平均分子量未達1,600,則抗靜電性不足,另一方面, 超過3,000時,由於反應性降低而使得聚醚酯醯胺製造時 需要較長時間。數平均分子量較好爲1,800~2,400,環氧 乙烷等之加成莫耳數更好爲32〜40。使數平均分子量在該 範圍內’可考量雙酚類之分子量,藉由調整環氧乙烷等之 加成莫耳數而達成。 上述加成物(b)以聚醚酯醯胺中之上述(a)與(b )之總重量爲準係在20〜80重量%之範圍內使用。若加成 物(b)之量未達20重量%,則聚醚酯醯胺之抗靜電性劣 化,另一方面,當超過80重量%時,由於聚醚酯醯胺之耐 熱性降低而不佳。更好,加成物(b)以上述(a)與(b )之總重量爲準係在40〜70重量%之範圍內使用。 本發明中使用之聚醚酯醯胺之相對黏度爲1.5~3.5 ( 0.5重量%,間-甲酚溶液,25 °C ),較好爲2.0~3.0。若未 達1.5,由於混練時與基底聚合物成分(聚醯胺成分及聚 -45- 201009148 酯成分)之熔融黏度差異大,故而容易滯留在導管內或紡 絲組件內,長時間實施紡絲容易引起吐出異常,使所得複 合纖維之品質不穩定。另一方面,若超過3.5之範圍,於 製絲時將成爲斷絲原因。 該聚醚酯醯胺對聚醯胺成分之添加量以〇重量%最適 當。當少量添加時,聚醯胺成分之吸濕伸長性降低,而損 及本發明目的之吸濕時呈現捲縮而使外觀絲長度收縮之機 能。 φ 上述並列型複合纖維可爲任意纖度、剖面形狀、複合 形態,作爲單絲纖度較宜爲1.5~5.0dtex左右。另外,使 本發明之複合纖維成爲中空複合纖維時對於濕度之敏感度 變大,且蓬鬆性亦變大。另外,聚醯胺成分與聚酯成分之 複合纖維之剖面之面積比,以聚醯胺成分/聚酯成分 =3 0/70~70/30之範圍較佳,更好爲40/60~60/40之範圍。 使上述複合纖維成爲單絲數條之多纖絲時,該多纖絲 之總纖度並無特別限制,但作爲一般衣料用材料可在 · 40〜200 dtex之範圍內使用。而且,亦可依據需要進行交 織處理。 _ 上述複合纖維爲具有潛在捲縮性能’如後述’在接受 染色加工等熱處理時展現潛在捲縮性能。因此吸濕時’由 於聚醯胺成分膨潤、伸長,且聚酯成分幾乎不引起長度變 化,因此捲縮率提高(捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變短)。另 一方面,由於乾燥時聚醯胺成分收縮,聚酯成分幾乎不產 生長度之變化,因此捲縮率降低(捲縮纖維A之外觀長度 -46 - 201009148 變長)。 上述之捲縮纖維A在吸濕時由於捲縮率容易提高,因 • 此以無撚絲或進行300T/m以下撚絲之弱撚絲較佳。尤其 ,以無撚絲較佳。如強撚絲般,若賦予強撚絲,吸濕時之 .捲縮率不易提高而不佳。又,即使以使交織數成爲20~60 個/m左右之方式進行經緯交錯空氣加工及/或施以一般假 撚捲縮加工亦無妨。 φ 另一方面,非捲縮或吸濕時捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮 之纖維B只要是非捲縮纖維或吸濕時捲縮率無變化之具有 捲縮之纖維就無特別限制。其中所謂「吸濕時之捲縮率無 變化」爲吸濕時之捲縮率HC與乾燥時之捲縮率DC之差 (HC-DC )未達 0.5%者。 該等纖維B若爲聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯、聚對苯二甲酸 三亞甲酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二酯等聚酯、尼龍6、尼龍66 等聚醯胺、聚乙烯、聚丙烯等聚烯烴、丙烯酸、對型或間 • 型芳醢胺、及該等之經改質合成纖維、天然纖維、再生纖 維、半合成纖維、聚胺基甲酸酯系彈性絲、聚醚酯系彈性 ' 絲等適合衣料之纖維則可自由的選擇。其中,就吸濕時之 尺寸安定性、或與上述捲縮纖維A之相容性(混纖性、交 編·交織性、染色性)方面而言,以由聚對苯二甲酸乙二 酯、聚對苯二甲酸丙二酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二酯,或於該 等中共聚合上述共聚合成分而成之經改質聚酯組成之聚酯 纖維較佳。又,該纖維B之單絲纖度、單絲數(纖絲數) 並無特別限制,但就提高布料之吸水性、展現吸濕時之凹 -47- 201009148 凸性能而言,以單絲纖度爲0.1〜5dtex (更好〇.5~2dtex) ,單絲數20〜2 00條(更好3 0~ 100條)之範圍內較佳。尤 其,交織數20〜60個/米左右之經緯交錯空氣加工及/或進 行一般假撚捲縮加工亦無妨。 本發明之布料含有上述吸濕時之捲縮率獲得提高之捲 . 鳍纖維A與非捲縮或吸濕時捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之纖 維B。 布料之構造爲其編織組織、層數並無特別限制。例如 φ ,較佳例示爲平織、綾織、緞織等織組織,或平針組織、 雙羅紋、圓形羅紋、集圈網眼、添紗編織、經平組織、半 哇編等之編組織,但不限於該等者。層數可爲單層,亦可 爲兩層以上之多層。 其中,因吸濕使布料展現凹凸之理由爲布料係由因吸 濕尺寸產生變化(收縮)之部分與即使吸濕尺寸亦無變化 或尺寸變化量小之部分所構成,由於相對於前者之因吸濕 尺寸產生變化者,後者爲尺寸無變化或尺寸變化量小者, © 吸濕時後者爲凸起部分而展現凹凸,因此由於藉由吸濕有 效地展現凹凸,因此適當的配置上述捲縮纖維A與纖維B ' 相當重要。 以下針對本發明之布料中所含之上述捲縮纖維A與纖 維B配置之較佳實施樣態加以說明。 首先於實施樣態(1)中,布料爲具有僅以上述捲縮 纖維A構成之部分(Y部分)與僅以上述纖維B構成之部 分(Z部分),且上述Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方向 -48- 201009148 連續。 該構造於吸濕時’ Y部分相較於Z部分其尺寸容易變 化(收縮),且由於布料中Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯 方向連續’因此Z部分成爲凸部而展現凹凸。 - 此時,作爲γ部分成爲經方向及/或緯方向連續之圖 . 型並無特別限制’可例示爲例如邊紋圖形、條紋圖形、格 子圖形、圖5中模式性表示之菱形花紋圖形、石板格子花 φ 紋圖形等。 上述Z部分與Y部分之面積比並無特別限制,但就布 料尺寸安定性之觀點而言,以(Z部分:Y部分)計,以 在10: 90〜90: 10 (更好爲20: 80〜80: 20)之範圍較佳 〇 上述Y部分彼此間在布料中係藉由z部分阻斷。此時 ’ Y部分1個位置之面積並無特別限制,在0.01~4.0cm2 (更好0.1〜1.0cm2)之範圍內時,就出汗時可防止衣服與 〇 肌膚黏貼方面爲較佳。另一方面,Z部分之線寬較好在 0.5~1 00mm之範圍內。The indoleamines are exemplified by butyrolactam, valeroguanamine, caprolactam, heptanoin, dodecane decylamine, undecyl decylamine and the like. The aminocarboxylic acid of (2) is exemplified by ω-aminohexanoic acid, ω-amino heptanoic acid, ω-aminooctanoic acid, ω-amino decanoic acid, 11-aminoundecanoic acid, and 12-amino group. Dodecanoic acid, etc. The (3) bis carboxylic acid is exemplified by adipic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, isophthalic acid and the like. Further, the diamine of (3) is exemplified by tetramethylene diamine, pentamethylene diamine, hexamethylene diamine, heptamethylene diamine, octamethylene diamine, and decamethylene diamine. Wait. The above internal amines, aminocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, and diamines are generally referred to as polyamine partial forming monomers. The above-mentioned polyamine moiety-forming monomer which is a polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals may be exemplified by two or more types. Preferred among these are caprolactam, 12-aminododecanoic acid and adipic acid-hexamethylenediamine, and -42-201009148 the best one is caprolactam. The polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends thereof further uses a dicarboxylic acid component having a carbon number of 4 to 20 as a molecular weight modifier, and in the presence of the above, the above-mentioned polyamine moiety is formed by a conventional method. The monomer is obtained by ring opening polymerization or polycondensation. Examples of the dicarboxylic acid having a carbon number of 4 to 20 are succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, or dodecane. Fatty acid dicarboxylic acid such as diacid; aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, phthalic acid or naphthalene dicarboxylic acid; 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid or bicyclic ring An aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as hexyl-4,4-dicarboxylic acid; or an alkali metal 5-sulfoisophthalate such as sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate or potassium 5-sulfoisophthalate . Among these, preferred are aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, aromatic dicarboxylic acids, and alkali metal salts of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid. More preferably, it is adipic acid, terephthalic acid, or sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate. When the polyamidene moiety forming monomer is subjected to ring-opening polymerization or polycondensation by a conventional method, the average degree of polymerization is preferably from 2 to 10, and more preferably, the average degree of polymerization is from 3 to 8. As a result, the polyamine moiety has a number average molecular weight of from 100 to 1,000, more preferably from 300 to 700. Further, the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is a component which imparts a polyamine moiety at both ends of a dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms of a molecular weight modifier, and a polyamine moiety is provided at a single terminal. The component may be a mixture of a component which imparts a polyamine moiety at both ends and a component which gives a polyamine moiety at a single terminal. In the case of a mixture, it is preferred that the component which imparts the polyamine moiety to the monomolar terminal at one end and the component which gives the polyamine moiety at both ends becomes 1 to 10 moles. It is better to give a composition of -43 to 201009148 with respect to the single end of 1 mole, and the composition of the two ends is 3 to 8 moles. Therefore, the amount of the carboxyl group-containing component of the above polyamine moiety-forming monomer can be appropriately adjusted so as to have a carboxyl group at both terminals. If only indoleamine and/or an aminocarboxylic acid is used as the mermeric amine moiety-forming monomer, since the molecular weight modifier is a dicarboxylic acid component, a polyamine amine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be easily produced ( a) . When a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine is used as a polyamidene moiety-forming monomolecular, for example, a polyalkylamine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be produced by a method such as a reaction for finally changing a dicarboxylic acid of a polymer. ). The number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is usually from 50 to 5,000, preferably from 500 to 3,000. When the number average molecular weight is less than 500, the heat resistance of the polyether ester decylamine itself is lowered. On the other hand, when the reactivity exceeds 5,000, the polyether ester amide is required to be produced for a longer period of time due to a decrease in reactivity. In order to make the number average molecular weight fall within the range, a dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms may be selected as the molecular weight modifier, and the reaction conditions may be appropriately set in the polymerization of the polyamine moiety. Further, among the bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adducts (b), bisphenols are bisphenol A (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-propane), bisphenol F. (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenylmethane), bisphenol S (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl) and 4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-butane. The preferred of these is double 酣A. The above bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adduct (b) is obtained by adding ethylene oxide to the bisphenols by a conventional method. Further, ethylene oxide and other alkylene oxides (propylene oxide, 1,2-butylene oxide, 1,4-butylene oxide, etc.) may be used, but other alkylene oxides may be used in all. Epoxy B-44- 201009148 The weight of the alkane shall prevail, usually below 〖〇% by weight. Further, the above adduct (b) corresponds to two hydroxyl groups of bisphenols, and an average of 20 to 70 moles of ethylene oxide and other alkylene oxides (hereinafter referred to as epoxy epoxides, etc.) are polymerized. good. It is better for the polymerization to have 32 to 60 moles of epoxy, etc. That is, the hydroxy polymerization (addition) corresponding to bisphenol has an adduct of 10 to 35 moles, preferably 16 to 30 moles, more preferably 16 to 20 moles of epoxy enamel. . The number average molecular weight of the above adduct (b) is usually uoo - s, 000 ', especially in the case of using an ethylene oxide addition molar number of 32 to 60. If the average molecular weight is less than 1,600, the antistatic property is insufficient. On the other hand, when it exceeds 3,000, it takes a long time to manufacture the polyetheresteramine due to a decrease in reactivity. The number average molecular weight is preferably from 1,800 to 2,400, and the addition molar number of ethylene oxide or the like is more preferably from 32 to 40. The number average molecular weight is within this range. The molecular weight of the bisphenol can be considered by adjusting the molar number of addition of ethylene oxide or the like. The above-mentioned adduct (b) is used in the range of 20 to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b) in the polyetheresteramine. When the amount of the adduct (b) is less than 20% by weight, the antistatic property of the polyether ester decylamine is deteriorated, and on the other hand, when it exceeds 80% by weight, the heat resistance of the polyether ester decylamine is lowered. good. More preferably, the adduct (b) is used in the range of 40 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b). The relative viscosity of the polyether ester guanamine used in the present invention is 1.5 to 3.5 (0.5% by weight, m-cresol solution, 25 ° C), preferably 2.0 to 3.0. If it is less than 1.5, since it has a large difference in melt viscosity from the base polymer component (polyamide component and poly-45-201009148 ester component) during mixing, it tends to stay in the inside of the catheter or in the spinning assembly, and to perform spinning for a long time. It is easy to cause abnormal discharge and the quality of the obtained composite fiber is unstable. On the other hand, if it exceeds the range of 3.5, it will cause the yarn breakage during the spinning. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably added to the polyamidene component in an amount of 〇% by weight. When added in a small amount, the hygroscopic elongation of the polyamide component is lowered, and the function of shrinking the moisture at the time of moisture absorption which is the object of the present invention and shrinking the length of the appearance yarn is impaired. φ The above-mentioned side-by-side type composite fiber may have any fineness, cross-sectional shape, or composite form, and the single-filament fineness is preferably about 1.5 to 5.0 dtex. Further, when the conjugate fiber of the present invention is a hollow conjugate fiber, the sensitivity to humidity is increased, and the bulkiness is also increased. Further, the area ratio of the cross section of the composite fiber of the polyamide component and the polyester component is preferably in the range of polyamine component/polyester component = 30/70 to 70/30, more preferably 40/60 to 60. /40 range. When the conjugate fiber is a multifilament of a plurality of filaments, the total fineness of the multifilament is not particularly limited, but it can be used as a material for general clothing in the range of 40 to 200 dtex. Moreover, the interlacing process can also be performed as needed. The composite fiber described above exhibits a potential crimping property as described later, and exhibits a potential crimping property upon heat treatment such as dyeing. Therefore, when the moisture absorption is carried out, the polyamide component is swollen and elongated, and the polyester component hardly causes a change in length, so that the crimp ratio is improved (the appearance length of the crimped fiber A is shortened). On the other hand, since the polyamide component shrinks during drying, the polyester component hardly changes in the degree of growth, and thus the crimp ratio is lowered (the length of the crimped fiber A is -46 - 201009148). The above-mentioned crimped fiber A is likely to be improved in shrinkage at the time of moisture absorption, and it is preferable to use a twisted yarn having a twisted yarn or a twisted yarn of 300 T/m or less. In particular, it is preferred to have no silk. If it is strong silk, if it is given strong silk, it will not be easy to increase the shrinkage rate when it absorbs moisture. Further, even if the number of interlaces is about 20 to 60 pieces/m, the warp and weft interlacing air processing and/or the general false twisting processing may be performed. φ On the other hand, the fiber B having the crimped shape which is not changed in the non-crimping or moisture absorption is not particularly limited as long as it is a non-crimped fiber or a fiber having a crimping rate which does not change when moisture is absorbed. The so-called "no change in the crimping rate at the time of moisture absorption" is a difference between the crimping rate HC at the time of moisture absorption and the crimping ratio DC at the time of drying (HC-DC) of less than 0.5%. The fibers B are polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, nylon 6, nylon 66, polyethylene, poly Polyolefin such as propylene, acrylic acid, p-type or meta-type linalylamine, and such modified synthetic fiber, natural fiber, regenerated fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, polyurethane elastic yarn, polyether ester Fibers suitable for clothing such as elastic 'silk' are freely selectable. Among them, in terms of dimensional stability during moisture absorption, or compatibility with the above-mentioned crimped fiber A (mixing property, blending, interlacing property, dyeability), polyethylene terephthalate is used. Preferably, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or a polyester fiber composed of the modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing the above copolymerized component. Further, the single-filament fineness and the number of filaments (the number of filaments) of the fiber B are not particularly limited, but the single-filament fineness is improved in terms of improving the water absorption of the fabric and exhibiting the convexity of the concave-47-201009148 when moisture is absorbed. It is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5 dtex (more preferably 55 to 2 dtex), and the number of filaments is 20 to 2 00 (more preferably 3 to 100). In particular, it is possible to interlace air processing with a warp and weft of about 20 to 60/m or so and to perform general false twist crimping. The fabric of the present invention contains the above-mentioned roll having an improved crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption. The fin fiber A has a crimped fiber B which has no change in the crimp ratio when it is not crimped or moisture-absorbent. The structure of the cloth is not limited to the structure of the weave and the number of layers. For example, φ is preferably woven in a plain weave, a woven weave, a satin weave, or a woven structure, a double rib, a circular rib, a tuck mesh, a woven weave, a warp weave, a half wow, etc., but Not limited to these. The number of layers may be a single layer or a multilayer of two or more layers. Among them, the reason why the cloth exhibits unevenness due to moisture absorption is that the cloth is composed of a portion which changes (shrinks) due to the moisture absorption size and a portion which does not change even if the moisture absorption size or a small amount of dimensional change, because the cause is relative to the former. The moisture absorption size is changed, and the latter is such that the size is not changed or the dimensional change is small, and the latter is a convex portion to exhibit unevenness when moisture is absorbed, so that the above-mentioned crimping is appropriately configured because the unevenness is effectively exhibited by moisture absorption. Fiber A and fiber B' are quite important. The preferred embodiment of the above-described crimped fiber A and fiber B arrangement contained in the fabric of the present invention will be described below. First, in the embodiment (1), the cloth has a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fibers A and a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fibers B, and the Y portion is formed in the warp direction and / or weft direction -48- 201009148 continuous. In the structure, the Y portion is easily changed (contracted) compared to the Z portion when moisture is absorbed, and since the Y portion in the cloth is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction, the Z portion becomes a convex portion to exhibit unevenness. - In this case, the γ portion is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. The type is not particularly limited, and may be exemplified by, for example, a fringe pattern, a stripe pattern, a grid pattern, a rhombic pattern schematically represented in FIG. 5, Slate plaid φ pattern and so on. The area ratio of the Z portion to the Y portion is not particularly limited, but in terms of the dimensional stability of the cloth, it is (Z part: Y part), and is 10: 90 to 90: 10 (more preferably 20: Preferably, the range of 80 to 80: 20) is such that the Y portions are blocked from each other by the z portion in the cloth. In this case, the area of the one portion of the Y portion is not particularly limited, and in the range of 0.01 to 4.0 cm 2 (more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 cm 2 ), it is preferable to prevent the clothing from sticking to the skin when sweating. On the other hand, the line width of the Z portion is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 100 mm.
' 接著於實施樣態(2)中’布料具有僅以上述纖維B 構成之部分(Z部分)與以上述捲縮纖維A與上述纖維B 構成之部分(X部分)’且上述X部分成爲於經方向及/ 或緯方向連續。 該構造中X部分相較於Z部分在濕潤時尺寸容易變化 ’且由於布料中之X部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方向連續 ,因此Z部分成爲凸部分而展現凹凸。此時,宜爲X部分 49- 201009148 成爲連接圖形,或二者之面積比係與實施樣態(1)相同 〇 接著於實施樣態(3)中,布料具有以上述捲縮纖維 A與上述纖維B構成之部分(X部分)與僅以上述捲縮纖 維A構成之部分(Y部分)’該布料中之上述Y部分成爲 _ 於經方向及/或緯方向連續。 該構造中Y部分相較於X部分在濕潤時尺寸容易變 化’且由於布料中之Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方向連 _ 續’因此X部分成爲凸部分而展現凹凸。此時,宜爲γ 部分成連接圖形’或二者之面積比係與實施樣態(1 )相 同。 接著於實施樣態(4)中,布料具有以上述捲縮纖維 A與上述纖維B構成之部分(X部分)與僅以上述捲縮纖 維A構成之部分(Y部分),及僅以上述纖維B構成之部 分(Z部分),上述Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方向連 續。 ⑩ 該構造中Y部分相較於其他部分(X部分或Z部分) 在濕潤時尺寸容易變化,且由於布料中之Y部分成爲於經 — 方向及/或緯方向連續,因此其他部分(X部分或Y部分 )成爲凸部分而展現凹凸。此時,宜爲Y部分成爲連接圖 形,或Y部分與其他部分之面積比係與實施樣態(1)相 同。 接著於實施樣態(5)中,布料爲由兩層以上構成之 多層布料,具有由上述捲縮纖維A與纖維B構成之層,與 -50- 201009148 僅以上述纖維B構成之層,且前者之層與後者之層部分連 結。 . 於該構造’由捲縮纖維A與纖維b構成之層,相較於 僅以纖維B構成之層,其吸濕尺寸變化較大,僅以纖維B 構成之層中以未與由捲縮纖維A與纖維b構成之層連結之 部分成爲凸部分而展現凹凸。 接著於實施樣態(6)中,布料爲由兩層以上構成之 φ 多層布料’且具有由上述捲縮纖維A與纖維B構成之層, 與僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成之層,且前者之層與後者之層 部分連結。 於該構造,僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成之層相較於以上 述捲縮纖維A與纖維B構成之層,其吸濕尺寸變化較大, 以上述捲縮纖維A及纖維B構成之層中,未與僅以上述捲 縮纖維A構成之層連結之部分成爲凸部分而展現凹凸。 接著於實施樣態(7)中,布料爲由兩層以上構成之 # 多層布料,且具有僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成之層,與僅以 上述纖維B構成之層,且前者之層與後者之層部分連結。 ' 於該構造,僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成之層相較於僅以 上述纖維B構成之層,其吸濕尺寸變化較大,僅以上述纖 維B構成之層中未與僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成之層連結之 部分成爲凸部分而展現凹凸。 本發明之布料可藉由例如下述之製造方法輕易地獲得 〇 首先,亦即將上述聚醯胺成分與聚酯成分複合紡絲成 -51 - 201009148 並列型。此時,例如可如特開2 0 0 0 - 1 4 4 5 1 8號公報中所記 載,使用將高黏度成分側與低黏度成分側之吐出孔分離, 且使高黏度側之吐出線速度較小(吐出面積增大)之紡絲 - 模嘴’藉由使熔融聚酯通過高黏度側吐出孔及使熔融聚醯 胺通過低黏度側吐出孔側並接合,且經冷卻固化之方法獲 - 得紡絲條。又本發明中,藉由適當設計此時之紡絲模嘴, _ 作爲並列型中空複合纖維亦可。紡絲所得之絲條除在暫且 捲取後將其延伸且進而視需要進行熱處理之所謂分別延伸 @ 方式以外’亦可採用暫且不捲取未延伸絲下延伸且進而視 需要進行熱處理之所謂直接延伸方式中之方法。上述紡絲 中紡絲速度可採用例如通常採用之100〇~3500m/分鐘左右 之紡絲速度者。又,延伸、熱處理係設定在延伸後之切斷 伸長度爲1〇~60%,通常爲20〜45%左右之條件下,因捲縮 之表現、製編織性等而言爲較佳。 接著,可同時使用上述複合纖維與非捲縮或吸濕時捲 縮率無變化之纖維B織編成布料後,施以染色加工,藉由 〇 染色加工時之熱使上述複合纖維展現潛在捲縮(稱爲捲縮 纖維A)。 其中’織編成布料時,織編組織並無特別限制,可適 當選定上述者。 上述染色加工之溫度爲100〜140°C (更好爲 11〇~135 °C ),時間以最高溫度之保持時間在5〜40分鐘之範圍內 較佳。在該等條件下,藉由對布料施以染色加工,上述複 合纖維可藉由聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分之熱收縮差而展現捲 -52- 201009148 縮。 施以染色加工之布料通常係實施乾熱最終定型。此時 ,乾熱最終定型之溫度以120~200°C (更好爲140〜180°C ),時間以1~3分鐘之範圍內較佳。其中,當乾熱最終定 型之溫度低於120 °C時,容易殘留染色加工時產生之皺折 ,又,會有完工製品之尺寸安定性變差之情況。相反地, 當乾熱最終定型之溫度高於200°C時,染色加工時展現之 複合纖維捲縮降低,有使纖維硬化且原布料質地變硬之情 況。 如此獲得之布料中,在布料因出汗或降雨而吸濕時, 由於捲縮纖維A本身之捲縮量增大而使外觀長度變短。另 —方面,纖維B即使吸濕其尺寸亦幾乎無變化。結果,因 吸濕使纖維B成爲凸部而展現凹凸。因此,藉由該等凹凸 之展現,使布料與人體或物體之間產生間隙而提升防透明 性。 另外,如此般獲得之布料中,布料中所含捲縮纖維A 若同時滿足下列(1 )〜(3 )之要件,則可獲得吸濕時優 異之防透明性而較佳。而且,具有該等特性之捲縮纖維A 可藉由上述之製造方法製造。 (1) 乾燥時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率DC在5 0〜8 0%之範 圍內。 (2) 吸濕時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC在60〜90%之範 圍內。 (3) 上述捲縮率HC與捲縮率DC之差(HC-DC)爲 -53- 201009148 0.5%以上。 其中,所謂乾燥時,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度 65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態,另一方面,所謂吸濕時 . ,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH之環境下24小 時後之狀態。 . 另外,本發明之布料亦可附加使用慣用方法之吸水加 工、起毛加工、紫外線遮蔽或抗菌劑、消臭劑、防蟲劑、 蓄光劑、逆反射劑、負離子發生劑等賦予機能之各種加工 參 〇 以下’對上述29~33相關之本發明實施形態詳細說明 〇 本發明之立毛布料爲具有織組織或編組織之底組織部 ’該底組織部上係由織入或編入之割絨及/或毛圈絨構成 之絨毛部構成。絨毛部亦可在底組織部之表裏兩面上形成 ,但以僅在其一面上形成較佳。 又,重要的是上述立毛部中含有吸濕時之捲縮率增加 @ 之捲縮纖維A作爲割絨及/或毛圈絨。藉由於立毛部中含 有該捲縮纖維A作爲割絨及/或毛圈絨,如圖6及圖7中 ' 模式的顯示般’藉由於吸濕時該捲縮纖維A之捲縮率可逆 地增加使立毛高度變小。該等捲縮纖維A以同時滿足下述 (1)及(2)之要件之捲縮纖維較佳。 (1) 捲縮纖維A爲將聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分接合成 並列型而成之複合纖維。 (2) 吸濕時捲縮纖維a之捲縮率HC與乾燥時捲縮 -54- 201009148 纖維A之捲縮率DC之差異(HC-DC)爲0.5 %以上(較好 5 %以上)。 . 其中,所謂乾燥時,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度 65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態,另一方面,所謂吸濕時 _ ,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH之環境下24小 時後之狀態。 9 其中,當吸濕時之捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC與乾燥時 φ 之捲縮纖維A之捲縮率DC之差異(HC-DC)未達0.5 %時 ,有吸濕時布料之透氣性不降低而不佳。且,乾燥時捲縮 纖維A之捲縮率DC較好在50〜80%之範圍內。另一方面 ,吸濕時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC較好在60〜90%之範圍 內。 該捲縮纖維A較好爲以如下列之聚酯成分與聚醯胺成 分接合成並列型而成之複合纖維,且較好爲具有展現潛在 捲縮性能之捲縮構造之捲縮纖維。 • 亦即,上述聚醯胺成分爲主鏈中具有醯胺鍵之聚合物 ' ,舉例爲例如尼龍4、尼龍6、尼龍12、尼龍46、尼龍66 — 等。尤其就成本面、廣用性、製絲性等觀點而言’以尼龍 6、尼龍66較佳。又,該等聚醯胺成分亦可與已知爲基劑 之成分共聚合,或者該等聚醯胺成分中亦可含有氧化鈦或 碳黑等顏料、習知之抗氧化劑、抗靜電劑、耐光劑等。 另一方面,上述聚酯成分較好係由構成該聚酯之重複 單位中對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有60〜99.5莫耳%,且間 苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有0.5-40莫耳%之共聚合聚酯構成 -55- 201009148 者。通常,聚酯之熱收縮率比聚醯胺低,但藉由採用該等 共聚合聚酯作爲聚酯可使聚酯之熱收縮率接近聚醯胺。結 果,在乾燥時之捲縮彎曲構造中,在吸濕時之捲縮彎曲構 - 造中,容易成爲膨潤之聚醯胺成分位於外側,聚酯成分位 . 於內側之構造,而易於提高捲縮率。其中,當對苯二甲酸 - 乙二酯單位未達60莫耳%時,無法充分維持所得複合纖維 1 之強伸長度等基本物性而不適當。當對苯二甲酸乙二酯單 位超過99.5莫耳%,間苯二甲酸乙二酯未達0.5莫耳%時 ❹ ,在複合纖維吸濕時不太提高捲縮率(捲縮絲之外觀長短 不縮短),作爲布料時有無法獲得充分低厚度之問題。當 間苯二甲酸乙二酯超過40莫耳%時,無法維持複合纖維之 強伸長度等基本物性,另外熱安定性亦劣化,且由於製絲 步驟中之分解性異物而有紡絲口之模嘴部分之過濾壓(充 塡壓力)顯著上升之問題。 該等聚酯可爲以任意方法製造者,若對例如聚對苯二 甲酸乙二酯加以說明,係使對苯二甲酸與乙二醇直接酯化 ® 反應,使如對苯二甲酸二甲酯之對苯二甲酸低級烷酯與乙 二醇直接酯化反應,或使對苯二甲酸與環氧乙烷反應等, ^ 產生對苯二甲酸之二醇酯及/或其低聚合物。接著使該產 物在減壓下加熱且聚縮合反應至所需之聚合度爲止而製造 〇 又,該聚酯除構成聚酯之對苯二甲酸乙二酯成分及間 苯二甲酸乙二酯成分以外,亦可共聚合第三種成分,該第 三種成分較好爲二羧酸成分或二醇成分之任一種。至於該 -56- 201009148 種二羧酸成分可舉例爲例如苯二甲酸、二溴對苯二甲酸、 萘二羧酸、二苯基二羧酸、二苯氧基乙烷二羧酸、如卩_經 . 基乙氧基苯甲酸之二官能性芳香族二羧酸、如癸二酸、己 二酸、草酸之二官能性脂肪族二羧酸、1,4-環己烷二翔酸 • 等。又上述二醇成分之一部分亦可經其他二醇成分取代, 該等二醇成分舉例爲例如環己烷-1,4-二甲醇、新戊二醇、 雙酚A、雙酚S、2,2-雙(4-β-羥基乙氧基苯基)丙烷、雙 φ (4-β-羥基乙氧基苯基)颯、2,2-雙(3,5-二溴-4-(2-經 基乙氧基)苯基)丙烷之脂肪族、脂環族、芳香族之二醇 。另外,上述聚酯中可依據需要少量地摻合熔融其他聚合 物者,亦可爲少量地使用季戊四醇、三羥甲基丙烷、偏苯 三酸等鏈分支劑者。除此之外,本發明之聚酯當然亦可與 一般聚酯同樣添加二氧化鈦、碳黑等顏料、習知抗氧化劑 、抗著色劑。 該聚酯成分中較好含有聚醚酯醯胺。當聚酯成分中含 φ 有聚醚酯醯胺時,聚酯成分成爲柔軟,於吸濕時,在聚醯 胺成分膨潤之際使聚酯成分易於追隨,易於使吸濕時之捲 ' 縮率提高故而較佳。該聚醚酯醯胺對聚酯成分之添加量相 對於聚酯成分重量以5〜55重量%較佳。若未達5重量% ’ 則複合纖維吸濕時,捲縮率不太提高(捲縮纖維的外觀長 度難以變短),作爲布料時會有無法獲得充分之厚度降低 之問題。另外,當超過55重量%時,會有無法穩定地紡絲 之問題。 該聚醚酯醯胺較好爲由兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子 -57- 201009148 量500~5,000之聚醯胺(a)與數平均分子量1,600〜3,000 之雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)所衍生。「衍生」意指 使兩種成分反應獲得者,亦可表示經共聚合而得者。 兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)較好係由聚醯胺部分 與分子量調節劑構成者。該聚醯胺部分係由(1)內醯胺 - 開環聚合物、(2)胺基羧酸之聚縮合物,或(3 )二羧酸 , 與二胺之聚縮合物之至少任一種構成,該等中,(1)之 內醯胺舉例爲丁內醯胺、戊內醯胺、己內醢胺、庚內醯胺 © 、十二烷內醯胺、十一烷內醯胺等。(2)之胺基羧酸舉 例爲ω-胺基己酸、ω-胺基庚酸、ω-胺基辛酸、ω-胺基癸酸 、11-胺基十一烷酸、12-胺基十二烷酸等。(3)之二羧酸 舉例爲己二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二酸、十二烷二 酸、間苯二甲酸等。又(3.)之二胺舉例爲四亞甲基二胺 、五亞甲基二胺、六亞甲基二胺、七亞甲基二胺、八亞甲 基二胺、十亞甲基二胺等。以上該等之內醯胺、胺基羧酸 、二羧酸、二胺統稱爲聚醯胺部分形成性單體。 Θ 上述作爲兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之聚醯胺部 分形成性單體所例示者亦可兩種以上倂用。該等中較佳者 爲己內醯胺、12-胺基十二烷酸及己二酸-六亞甲基二胺, 最佳者爲己內醯胺。 上述兩未端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)係進而使用碳數 4〜20之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,在該等存在下藉由 慣用之方法,使上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體經開環聚合或 聚縮合獲得。碳數4~20之二羧酸舉例爲琥珀酸、戊二酸 -58- 201009148 、己二酸、庚二酸、辛二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、-f—烷二 酸、或十二烷二酸等脂肪酸二羧酸;對苯二甲酸、間苯二 甲酸、鄰苯二甲酸、或萘二羧酸等芳香族二羧酸;14-環 己烷二羧酸、或二環己基-4,4-二羧酸等脂肪族二羧酸;或 5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉、或5-磺基間苯二甲酸鉀等5-磺基間 苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽等。該等中,較佳者爲脂肪族二羧酸、 芳香族二羧酸及5-磺基間苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽。更好爲己二 酸、對苯二甲酸、5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉。 以慣用之方法使聚醯胺部分形成性單體開環聚合或聚 縮合之際,其平均聚合度以2~ 10時較佳,更好其平均聚 合度爲3~8。其結果該聚醯胺部分之數平均分子量爲 100〜1,000,更好爲 300-700。 再者上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)爲在分子量 調節劑的碳數4~20之二羧酸成分之兩末端賦予聚醯胺部 分之成分,於單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分,或亦可爲兩 末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分及單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成 分之混合物》爲混合物時,相對於1莫耳單末端賦予聚醯 胺部分之成分,兩末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分成爲1〜10 莫耳而成之莫耳比較佳。更好爲相對於1莫耳之單末端賦 予之成分’兩未端賦予之成分爲3〜8莫耳。因此可適當的 調整上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體之具有羧基之成分之量以 使兩末端具有羧基。若僅使用內醯胺及/或胺基羧酸作爲 聚醯胺部分形成性單體,則由於分子量調節劑爲二羧酸成 分,因此可輕易地製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺胺(a) -59- 201009148 。使用二羧酸與二胺之聚縮合物作爲聚醯胺部分形成性單 體時,例如使用於聚合物之最終改變二羧酸之反應等方法 可製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)。 . 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之數平均分子量 通常爲500~5,000,較好爲500〜3,000。數平均分子量未達 . 5 00時會使聚醚酯醯胺本身之耐熱性降低,另一方面,當 超過5,00 0時由於反應性降低,因此聚醚酯醯胺製造時需 要更長時間。爲了使數平均分子量落在該範圍內,可選擇 碳數4~20之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,亦可在聚醯 胺部分之聚合之際適當設定反應條件。 另外,雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)中,雙酚類舉 例爲雙酚A(4,4’-二羥基二苯基-2,2-丙烷)、雙酚F( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基甲烷)、雙酚S(4,4’-二羥基二苯基碾 )及4,4’-二羥基二苯基-2,2-丁烷等。該等中較佳者爲雙 酚A。 上述雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)係依慣用之方法 〇 ,藉由將環氧乙烷加成於該等雙酚類上而得。又,亦可倂 用環氧乙烷與其他環氧烷(環氧丙烷、1,2-環氧丁烷、 1,4·環氧丁烷等),但其他環氧烷之使用量以全部環氧乙 烷之重量爲準’通常在1 0重量%以下。 又上述加成物(b)對應於雙酚類之兩個羥基,聚合 有平均20~70莫耳之環氧乙烷、其他環氧烷(以下稱爲環 氧乙烷等)之情況較佳。更好爲聚合有32〜60莫耳之環氧 乙烷等之情況。亦即,對應於雙酚之一個羥基聚合(加成 -60- 201009148 )有10〜35莫耳,較好16〜30莫耳,更好16〜20莫耳之環 氧乙烷等而成之加成物。 . 上述加成物(b)之數平均分子量通常爲1,600〜3,000 ,尤其是以使用環氧乙烷加成莫耳數爲3 2〜60者較佳。若 .數平均分子量未達1,600,則抗靜電性不足,另一方面, .超過3,000時,由於反應性降低而使得聚醚酯醯胺製造時 需要較長時間。數平均分子量較好爲1,800〜2,400,環氧 Φ 乙烷等之加成莫耳數更好爲32~40。使數平均分子量在該 範圍內,係考量雙酚類之分子量,藉由調整環氧乙烷等之 加成莫耳數而達成。 上述加成物(b)以聚醚酯醯胺中之上述(a)與(b )之總重量爲準係在20〜80重量%之範圍內使用。若加成 物(b)之量未達20重量%,則聚醚酯醯胺之抗靜電性劣 化,另一方面,當超過80重量%時,由於聚醚酯醯胺之耐 熱性降低而不佳。更好,加成物(b)以上述(a)與(b φ )之總重量爲準係在40〜70重量%之範圍內使用。 本發明中使用之聚醚酯醯胺之相對黏度爲1.5~3.5( ' 〇.5重量%,間-甲酚溶液,25°C ),較好爲2.0~3.0。若未 達1.5,由於混練時與基底聚合物成分(聚醯胺成分及聚 酯成分)之熔融黏度差異大,故而容易滯留在導管內或紡 絲組件內,長時間實施紡絲容易引起吐出異常,使所得複 合纖維之品質不穩定。另一方面,若超過3.5,於製絲時 將成爲斷絲原因。 該聚醚酯醯胺對聚醯胺成分之添加量以〇重量%最適 -61 - 201009148 當。當少量添加時,聚醯胺成分之吸濕伸長性降低,而損 及本發明目的之吸濕時呈現捲縮而使外觀絲長度收縮之機 能。 上述並列型複合纖維可爲任意纖度、剖面形狀、複合 形態,作爲單絲纖度較宜爲1_5〜5.0dtex左右。另外,聚 . 醯胺成分與聚酯成分之複合纖維之剖面之面積比,以聚醯 胺成分/聚酯成分=30/70-70/30之範圍較佳,更好爲 40/60~60/40 之範圍。 _ 本發明之立毛布料中,構成底組織部之纖維以聚酯纖 維較佳。形成聚酯纖維之聚酯例示者爲以對苯二甲酸作爲 主要之酸成分,與碳數2~6之烷二醇,亦即選自由乙二醇 、三亞甲基二醇、四亞甲基二醇、五亞甲基二醇、六亞甲 基二醇等組成之群組之至少一種二醇,最好爲乙二醇爲主 之二醇成分而成之聚酯。另外,亦可爲如國際公開 W02004/063435號說明書中之揭示般,使用含有鈦化合物 與磷化合物之觸媒獲得之聚酯、化學品或經原料回收之聚 〇 酯。另外,亦可爲聚乳酸或立體錯合之聚乳酸等脂肪族聚 酯。 上述聚酯聚合物亦可依據需要具有少量(通常30莫 耳%以下)之共聚合成分。此時,所使用之對苯二甲酸以 外之二官能性羧酸可爲例如間苯二甲酸、萘二羧酸、二苯 基二羧酸、二苯氧基乙烷二羧酸、β-羥基乙氧基苯甲酸、 對·氧基苯甲酸、5-鈉磺基間苯二甲酸、己二酸、癸二酸、 1,4·環己烷二羧酸之芳香族、脂肪族、脂環族之二官能性 -62- 201009148 羧酸。又,上述二醇以外之二醇化合物可爲例如環己烷_ 1,4-二甲醇、新戊二醇、雙酚A、雙酚S等脂肪族、脂環 . 族、芳香族之二醇化合物及聚環氧烷等。 本發明之立毛布料可藉由例如以下之製造方法製造。 .首先,將上述聚醯胺成分與聚酯成分複合紡絲成並列型作 爲絨毛用絲條。此時,例如可如特開2000- 1 445 1 8號公報 中所記載,使用將高黏度成分側與低黏度成分側之吐出孔 φ 分離,且使高黏度側之吐出線速度較小(吐出面積增大) 之紡絲模嘴,藉由使熔融聚酯通過高黏度側吐出孔及使熔 融聚醯胺通過低黏度側吐出孔側並接合,且經冷卻固化之 方法獲得紡絲條。又本發明中,藉由適當設計此時之紡絲 模嘴,作爲並列型中空複合纖維亦可。紡絲所得之絲條除 在暫且捲取後將其延伸且進而視需要進行熱處理之所謂分 別延伸方式以外,亦可採用暫且不捲取未延伸絲下延伸且 進而視需要進行熱處理之所謂直接延伸方式中之方法。上 # 述紡絲中紡絲速度可採用例如通常採用之1 000〜3500m/分 ' 鐘左右之紡絲速度者。又,延伸、熱處理係設定在延伸後 ' 之切斷伸長度爲1〇〜60%,通常爲20~45%左右之條件下, 因捲縮之表現、製編織性等而言爲較佳。 該等絨毛用絲條以單絲纖度 1.5〜5.0dtex、總纖度 40〜200dtex、纖絲數30〜150條之範圍較佳。 該等絨毛用絲條(複合纖維)具有潛在之捲縮性能, 且如後述般,在染色加工等下承受熱處理時展現潛在之捲 縮性能。因此吸濕時,由於聚醯胺成分膨潤、伸長,且聚 -63- 201009148 酯成分之長度幾乎不會引起變化,故可提升捲縮率(捲縮 纖維A之外觀長度變短)。另一方面,乾燥時由於聚醯胺 成分收縮,且聚酯成分之長度幾乎不引起變化,因此捲縮 率下降(捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變長)。 上述絨毛用絲條在吸濕時由於捲縮率容易提高,因此 以無撚絲或進行300T/m以下撚絲之弱撚絲較佳。尤其, 以無撚絲較佳。如強撚絲般,若賦予強撚絲,吸濕時之捲 縮率不易提高而不佳。又,即使以使交織數成爲20〜60個 /πι左右之方式進行經緯交錯空氣加工及/或施以一般假撚 捲縮加工亦無妨。 另一方面,底組織部用之絲條亦可例如使上述之聚酯 自一般之紡絲口模嘴熔融紡絲,且以2000〜4300m/分鐘之 速度暫時捲成未延伸絲(中間配向絲),再經延伸,亦可 在捲取之前延伸。又,亦可使用加熱器將中間配向絲加熱 至180~20(TC,以鬆弛之狀態(過量進料1.5〜10%)熱處 理,藉此成爲加熱下具有自身伸長性之未延伸絲(中間配 向絲)。 該底組織部用絲條中,纖維形態並無特別限制,可爲 長纖維亦可爲短纖維。其中,例示較佳者爲無撚或弱撚而 成之長纖維(多纖絲)。該底組織部用絲條亦可爲施行假 撚捲縮加工,或塔斯綸加工或經緯交錯加工等空氣加工。 該絲條之總纖度、單絲纖度、纖絲數並無特別限制,但就 質地之觀點而言,以總纖度爲 30〜400dtex (更好爲 50~200dtex),單絲纖度爲 〇.5~5dtex(更好爲 1 〜4dtex) -64- 201009148 、纖絲數爲20〜100條之範圍較適當。 接著,使用上述絨毛用絲條與底組織部用絲條,製編 . 織以具有織組織或編組織之底組織部與毛圈絨毛部構成之 毛圈絨毛布料。此時,編織組織並無限制,例示爲例如經 .絨毛織物、緯絨毛織物、沉降片絨毛編物、拉舎爾編物、 經絨-經平絨毛編物等。形成割絨時係以剪切機等使該等 毛圈絨之前端部加以切割。 φ 接著,對該等立毛布料進行染色加工,藉由染色加工 過程之熱使立毛部中所含複合纖維展現潛在之捲縮成爲捲 縮纖維。 其中,上述染色加工之溫度爲100〜140 °c (更好爲 110〜13 5°c ),時間以最高溫度之保持時間在5~40分鐘之 範圍內較佳。在該等條件下,藉由對布料施以染色加工, 上述複合纖維可藉由聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分之熱收縮差而 展現捲縮。'Next, in the embodiment (2), the fabric has a portion (Z portion) composed only of the above-mentioned fibers B and a portion (X portion) composed of the above-mentioned crimped fibers A and the above-mentioned fibers B, and the above-mentioned X portion becomes Continuous through the direction and / or the weft direction. In this configuration, the X portion is more likely to change in size than the Z portion when wet, and since the X portion in the cloth is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction, the Z portion becomes a convex portion to exhibit unevenness. In this case, it is preferable that the X portion 49-201009148 is a connection pattern, or the area ratio of the two is the same as the embodiment (1). Then, in the embodiment (3), the cloth has the above-mentioned crimped fiber A and the above The portion (X portion) of the fiber B and the portion (Y portion) composed only of the above-mentioned crimped fiber A are formed to be continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. In this configuration, the Y portion is more likely to change in size than the X portion when wet, and since the Y portion in the cloth becomes continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction, the X portion becomes a convex portion to exhibit unevenness. At this time, it is preferable that the γ portion is connected to the pattern ’ or the area ratio of the two is the same as that of the embodiment (1). Next, in the embodiment (4), the cloth has a portion (X portion) composed of the above-mentioned crimped fiber A and the above-mentioned fiber B, and a portion (Y portion) composed only of the above-mentioned crimped fiber A, and only the above-mentioned fiber In the portion (part Z) of the B configuration, the Y portion is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. 10 In this configuration, the Y part is easier to change in size than the other parts (X part or Z part), and since the Y part in the cloth is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction, the other part (X part) Or the Y part) becomes a convex part and exhibits unevenness. In this case, it is preferable that the Y portion is a connection pattern, or the area ratio of the Y portion to the other portions is the same as that of the embodiment (1). Then, in the embodiment (5), the cloth is a multi-layered fabric composed of two or more layers, and has a layer composed of the crimped fibers A and B, and a layer composed of only the above-mentioned fibers B from -50 to 201009148, and The former layer is connected to the latter layer. In the structure, the layer composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber b has a larger change in the moisture absorption size than the layer composed only of the fiber B, and only the layer composed of the fiber B is not crimped. The portion where the fibers A and the layers of the fibers b are joined is a convex portion and exhibits irregularities. Then, in the embodiment (6), the cloth is a φ multilayer fabric composed of two or more layers and has a layer composed of the crimped fibers A and B, and a layer composed only of the crimped fibers A, and The former layer is connected to the latter layer. In this configuration, only the layer composed of the crimped fibers A has a larger change in the moisture absorption size than the layer composed of the crimped fibers A and B, and the layer composed of the crimped fibers A and B In the middle, the portion which is not connected to the layer composed only of the crimped fibers A is a convex portion and exhibits irregularities. Next, in the embodiment (7), the fabric is a multi-layered fabric composed of two or more layers, and has a layer composed only of the crimped fibers A and a layer composed only of the fibers B, and the former layer and The latter layer is partially connected. In this configuration, only the layer composed of the above-mentioned crimped fibers A has a larger change in the moisture absorption size than the layer composed only of the above-mentioned fibers B, and only the layer composed of the above-mentioned fibers B is not only in the above-mentioned roll. The portion in which the layers of the condensed fibers A are joined becomes a convex portion and exhibits irregularities. The fabric of the present invention can be easily obtained by, for example, the following production method. First, the polyamide component and the polyester component are conjugated into a side-by-side type -51 - 201009148. In this case, for example, the high-viscosity component side and the low-viscosity component side discharge hole can be separated, and the discharge line speed on the high viscosity side can be used as described in JP-A-2000-144. The smaller (extrusion area increased) spinning-die] is obtained by passing the molten polyester through the high-viscosity side discharge hole and allowing the molten polyamine to pass through the low-viscosity side discharge port side and being joined by cooling and solidification. - Get a spun yarn. Further, in the present invention, by appropriately designing the spinning nozzle at this time, _ can be used as a side-by-side hollow composite fiber. The so-called filaments obtained by spinning can be stretched and then heat-treated as needed, and the so-called "extension" can be used for the purpose of not stretching the unstretched filaments and then heat-treating as needed. The method in the extension mode. The spinning speed in the above spinning can be, for example, a spinning speed of usually about 100 〇 to 3,500 m/min. Further, the elongation and the heat treatment are preferably set so that the elongation at break after stretching is from 1 〇 to 60%, and usually from about 20 to 45%, depending on the expression of the crimp, the braidability, and the like. Then, the conjugate fiber and the fiber B having no change in the crimping rate at the time of non-coiling or moisture absorption can be simultaneously woven into a cloth, and then subjected to dyeing processing, and the composite fiber exhibits potential crimping by heat during the dyeing process. (called crimped fiber A). In the case of 'woven into a fabric, the weaving organization is not particularly limited, and the above may be appropriately selected. The temperature of the above dyeing process is 100 to 140 ° C (more preferably 11 〇 to 135 ° C), and the time is preferably in the range of 5 to 40 minutes at the maximum temperature. Under these conditions, by subjecting the fabric to a dyeing process, the above composite fiber can exhibit shrinkage by the heat shrinkage of the polyester component and the polyamide component. The fabric to be dyed is usually subjected to dry heat final setting. At this time, the temperature at which the dry heat is finalized is 120 to 200 ° C (more preferably 140 to 180 ° C), and the time is preferably in the range of 1 to 3 minutes. Among them, when the temperature at which the dry heat is finalized is lower than 120 °C, wrinkles which are generated during the dyeing process tend to remain, and the dimensional stability of the finished product may deteriorate. Conversely, when the temperature at which the dry heat is finalized is higher than 200 ° C, the shrinkage of the composite fiber exhibited during the dyeing process is lowered, and the fiber is hardened and the texture of the original fabric is hardened. In the cloth thus obtained, when the cloth absorbs moisture due to sweating or rain, the length of the crimping fiber A itself is increased to shorten the appearance length. On the other hand, the fiber B has almost no change even if it absorbs moisture. As a result, the fibers B become convex portions due to moisture absorption, and the irregularities are exhibited. Therefore, by the appearance of the concavities and convexities, a gap is formed between the cloth and the human body or the object to improve the anti-transparency. Further, in the cloth thus obtained, if the crimped fiber A contained in the fabric satisfies the requirements of the following (1) to (3) at the same time, it is preferable to obtain an excellent anti-transparency property at the time of moisture absorption. Further, the crimped fiber A having such characteristics can be produced by the above-described manufacturing method. (1) The crimping ratio DC of the crimped fiber A during drying is in the range of 50 to 80%. (2) The crimping rate HC of the crimped fiber A during moisture absorption is in the range of 60 to 90%. (3) The difference between the above-mentioned crimp ratio HC and the crimp ratio DC (HC-DC) is -53- 201009148 0.5% or more. In the case of drying, the sample is placed in a state of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, when the sample is absorbed, the sample is placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90. The state after 24 hours in the environment of %RH. In addition, the fabric of the present invention may be additionally subjected to various processes such as water absorption processing, raising processing, ultraviolet shielding or antibacterial agents, deodorants, insect repellents, light storage agents, retroreflectors, negative ion generators, and the like. </ RTI> </ RTI> </ RTI> </ RTI> </ RTI> <RTIgt; </ RTI> <RTIgt; </ RTI> <RTIgt; </ RTI> <RTIgt; </ RTI> <RTIgt; </ RTI> <RTIgt; / or the pile part of the loop pile is composed. The pile portion may also be formed on both sides of the surface of the bottom tissue portion, but it is preferably formed on only one side thereof. Further, it is important that the above-mentioned standing portion contains the crimped fiber A having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption as the cut pile and/or the pile pile. By the fact that the crimped fiber A is contained in the upset portion as the cut pile and/or the loop pile, as shown in the 'pattern display' in FIGS. 6 and 7, the crimping rate of the crimped fiber A is reversibly due to moisture absorption. Increase the height of the standing hair to be smaller. It is preferable that the crimped fibers A are crimped fibers satisfying the requirements of the following (1) and (2). (1) The crimped fiber A is a composite fiber obtained by joining a polyester component and a polyamide component into a side-by-side type. (2) The crimp ratio HC of the crimped fiber a during moisture absorption and the curl during drying -54- 201009148 The difference in the crimp ratio DC (HC-DC) of the fiber A is 0.5% or more (preferably 5% or more). In the case of drying, the sample is placed in a state of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, when the moisture is absorbed, the sample is placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and humidity. The state after 24 hours in an environment of 90% RH. 9 wherein, when the shrinkage ratio HC of the crimped fiber A at the time of moisture absorption is less than 0.5% of the crimp ratio DC of the crimped fiber A at the time of drying, the fabric is absorbent. Breathability is not degraded. Further, the crimping ratio DC of the crimped fiber A during drying is preferably in the range of 50 to 80%. On the other hand, the crimping ratio HC of the crimped fiber A during moisture absorption is preferably in the range of 60 to 90%. The crimped fiber A is preferably a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined together in a side-by-side manner, and is preferably a crimped fiber having a crimped structure exhibiting a latent crimping property. That is, the above-mentioned polyamide component is a polymer having a guanamine bond in the main chain, and examples thereof include, for example, nylon 4, nylon 6, nylon 12, nylon 46, and nylon 66. In particular, nylon 6 and nylon 66 are preferable from the viewpoints of cost, versatility, and yarn-making properties. Further, the polyamine component may be copolymerized with a component known as a base, or the polyamide component may contain a pigment such as titanium oxide or carbon black, a conventional antioxidant, an antistatic agent, and light resistance. Agents, etc. On the other hand, the above polyester component preferably accounts for 60 to 99.5 mol% of the ethylene terephthalate unit in the repeating unit constituting the polyester, and the ethylene isophthalate unit accounts for 0.5 to 40 moles. % of the copolymerized polyester of the ear constitutes -55- 201009148. Generally, the heat shrinkage of the polyester is lower than that of the polyamine, but the heat shrinkage of the polyester is brought close to the polyamine by using the copolymerized polyester as the polyester. As a result, in the crimping and bending structure at the time of drying, in the crimping and bending structure during moisture absorption, it is easy to form the swelled polyamidamide component on the outer side, and the polyester component is located on the inner side, and it is easy to increase the volume. Shrinkage. Among them, when the unit of terephthalic acid-ethylene diester is less than 60 mol%, the basic physical properties such as the strong elongation of the obtained conjugated fiber 1 cannot be sufficiently maintained. When the ethylene terephthalate unit exceeds 99.5 mol% and the isophthalic acid ethylene diester does not reach 0.5 mol%, the crimping rate is not increased when the composite fiber absorbs moisture (the length of the crimped filament is short) If it is not shortened, there is a problem that a sufficient low thickness cannot be obtained as a cloth. When the ethylene isophthalate exceeds 40 mol%, the basic physical properties such as the strong elongation of the composite fiber cannot be maintained, and the thermal stability is also deteriorated, and the spinning port is molded due to the decomposable foreign matter in the spinning step. The filtration pressure (filling pressure) of the mouth portion is significantly increased. The polyesters may be manufactured by any method. For example, for example, polyethylene terephthalate is directly esterified with terephthalic acid to react with ethylene glycol to make dimethyl terephthalate. The ester of the lower alkyl ester of terephthalic acid is directly esterified with ethylene glycol, or the reaction of terephthalic acid with ethylene oxide, etc., to produce a terephthalic acid glycol ester and/or its low polymer. The product is then heated under reduced pressure and polycondensed to a desired degree of polymerization to form a bismuth phthalate component and ethylene phthalate component. In addition, a third component may be copolymerized, and the third component is preferably any of a dicarboxylic acid component or a diol component. As the di-carboxylic acid component of the -56-201009148, for example, phthalic acid, dibromo-terephthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethane dicarboxylic acid, such as hydrazine can be exemplified. _. A difunctional aromatic dicarboxylic acid of ethoxy benzoic acid, such as a dicarboxylic aliphatic dicarboxylic acid of azelaic acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, 1,4-cyclohexane dihistamine Wait. Further, a part of the above diol component may be substituted with other diol components, such as cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, neopentyl glycol, bisphenol A, bisphenol S, 2, for example. 2-bis(4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane, double φ(4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)anthracene, 2,2-bis(3,5-dibromo-4-(2) An aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic diol of - ethoxycarbonyl)phenyl)propane. Further, in the above polyester, a small amount of the other polymer may be blended as needed, and a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane or trimellitic acid may be used in a small amount. In addition, the polyester of the present invention may of course be added with a pigment such as titanium oxide or carbon black, a conventional antioxidant, or an anti-coloring agent in the same manner as a general polyester. The polyester component preferably contains a polyether ester decylamine. When the polyester component contains φ polyether ester decylamine, the polyester component becomes soft, and when the polyamine component swells during moisture absorption, the polyester component is easily followed, and it is easy to shrink during moisture absorption. The rate is improved and it is better. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably added to the polyester component in an amount of 5 to 55% by weight based on the weight of the polyester component. If it is less than 5% by weight, the crimping rate does not increase when the composite fiber absorbs moisture (the length of the crimped fiber is difficult to be shortened), and there is a problem that a sufficient thickness cannot be obtained as a fabric. On the other hand, when it exceeds 55% by weight, there is a problem that the spinning cannot be stably performed. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably an ethylene oxide compound having a number average molecular weight of -78 to 201009148 of 500-5,000 at both ends and a bisphenol of a number average molecular weight of 1,600 to 3,000. Derived from product (b). "Derivative" means the one obtained by reacting two components, or the one obtained by copolymerization. The polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals is preferably composed of a polyamine moiety and a molecular weight modifier. The polyamine moiety is at least one of (1) an indoleamine-ring-opening polymer, (2) a polycondensate of an aminocarboxylic acid, or (3) a dicondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine. In the above, the guanamine in (1) is exemplified by butane decylamine, valeroguanamine, caprolactam, heptanolactone ©, dodecane decylamine, undecane decylamine, and the like. . The aminocarboxylic acid of (2) is exemplified by ω-aminohexanoic acid, ω-amino heptanoic acid, ω-aminooctanoic acid, ω-amino decanoic acid, 11-aminoundecanoic acid, and 12-amino group. Dodecanoic acid, etc. The (3) dicarboxylic acid is exemplified by adipic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, isophthalic acid and the like. Further, the diamine of (3.) is exemplified by tetramethylene diamine, pentamethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, heptamethylenediamine, octamethylenediamine, and decamethylene. Amines, etc. The above-mentioned indoleamine, aminocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid, and diamine are collectively referred to as a polyamidene moiety-forming monomer.例 The above-mentioned polyamine moiety-forming monomer which is a polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals may be exemplified by two or more types. Preferred among these are caprolactam, 12-aminododecanoic acid and adipic acid-hexamethylenediamine, and the most preferred is caprolactam. The polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at the two ends is further a dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms as a molecular weight modifier, and the polyformamide moiety is formed by a conventional method in the presence of the above. The monomers are obtained by ring opening polymerization or polycondensation. Examples of the dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 20 carbon atoms are succinic acid, glutaric acid-58-201009148, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, -f-alkanedioic acid, or a fatty acid dicarboxylic acid such as dodecanedioic acid; an aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, phthalic acid or naphthalene dicarboxylic acid; 14-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid or a bicyclic ring An aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as hexyl-4,4-dicarboxylic acid; or an alkali metal 5-sulfoisophthalate such as sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate or potassium 5-sulfoisophthalate . Among these, preferred are aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, aromatic dicarboxylic acids, and alkali metal salts of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid. More preferably, it is adipic acid, terephthalic acid, or sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate. When the polyamidene moiety forming monomer is subjected to ring-opening polymerization or polycondensation by a conventional method, the average degree of polymerization is preferably from 2 to 10, and more preferably, the average degree of polymerization is from 3 to 8. As a result, the polyamine moiety has a number average molecular weight of from 100 to 1,000, more preferably from 300 to 700. Further, the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is a component which imparts a polyamine moiety to both ends of a dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms of a molecular weight modifier, and a polyamine moiety is provided at a single terminal. When a component or a mixture of a component which imparts a polyamine moiety at both ends and a component which imparts a polyamine moiety to a single terminal is a mixture, a component of the polyamine moiety is given to a single molar terminal, and both ends are imparted. The composition of the polyamine moiety is preferably 1 to 10 moles. More preferably, the component imparted to the single end with respect to 1 mole is composed of 3 to 8 moles. Therefore, the amount of the carboxyl group-containing component of the above polyamine moiety-forming monomer can be appropriately adjusted so as to have a carboxyl group at both terminals. If only indoleamine and/or an aminocarboxylic acid is used as the polyamine moiety-forming monomer, since the molecular weight modifier is a dicarboxylic acid component, a polyamine amine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be easily produced (a) ) -59- 201009148. When a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine is used as a polyamidene moiety-forming monomer, for example, a polyalkylamine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be produced by a method such as a reaction for finally changing a dicarboxylic acid of a polymer (a). . The number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is usually from 500 to 5,000, preferably from 500 to 3,000. When the number average molecular weight is less than 50,000, the heat resistance of the polyether ester decylamine itself is lowered. On the other hand, when the reactivity exceeds 50,000, the polyether ester amide is required to be produced longer. . In order to make the number average molecular weight fall within the range, a dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms may be selected as the molecular weight modifier, and the reaction conditions may be appropriately set in the polymerization of the polyamine moiety. Further, among the bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adducts (b), bisphenols are exemplified by bisphenol A (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-propane) and bisphenol F (4). 4'-dihydroxydiphenylmethane), bisphenol S (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl) and 4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-butane. The preferred of these is bisphenol A. The bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adduct (b) is obtained by a method which is conventionally used for the addition of ethylene oxide to the bisphenols. Further, ethylene oxide and other alkylene oxides (propylene oxide, 1,2-butylene oxide, 1,4·butylene oxide, etc.) may be used, but other alkylene oxides are used in all amounts. The weight of ethylene oxide is generally 'normally below 10% by weight. Further, the above-mentioned adduct (b) corresponds to two hydroxyl groups of bisphenols, and it is preferred to polymerize ethylene oxide having an average of 20 to 70 mols and other alkylene oxides (hereinafter referred to as ethylene oxide). . More preferably, the polymerization has a condition of 32 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide or the like. That is, a hydroxyl group corresponding to bisphenol (addition-60-201009148) has 10 to 35 moles, preferably 16 to 30 moles, more preferably 16 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, etc. Additives. The number average molecular weight of the above-mentioned adduct (b) is usually from 1,600 to 3,000, particularly preferably from 3 to 60 in terms of an ethylene oxide addition molar number of from 3 to 60. If the number average molecular weight is less than 1,600, the antistatic property is insufficient. On the other hand, when it exceeds 3,000, it takes a long time to manufacture the polyetheresteramine due to a decrease in reactivity. The number average molecular weight is preferably 1,800 to 2,400, and the addition molar number of the epoxy Φ ethane or the like is more preferably 32 to 40. When the number average molecular weight is within this range, the molecular weight of the bisphenol is considered, and it is achieved by adjusting the molar number of addition of ethylene oxide or the like. The above-mentioned adduct (b) is used in the range of 20 to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b) in the polyetheresteramine. When the amount of the adduct (b) is less than 20% by weight, the antistatic property of the polyether ester decylamine is deteriorated, and on the other hand, when it exceeds 80% by weight, the heat resistance of the polyether ester decylamine is lowered. good. More preferably, the adduct (b) is used in the range of 40 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b φ ). The relative viscosity of the polyether ester guanamine used in the present invention is 1.5 to 3.5 (' 〇. 5 wt%, m-cresol solution, 25 ° C), preferably 2.0 to 3.0. If it is less than 1.5, since the difference in melt viscosity between the base polymer component (polyamide component and polyester component) during kneading is large, it tends to stay in the inside of the tube or in the spinning unit, and spinning for a long time is likely to cause abnormal discharge. The quality of the obtained composite fiber is unstable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 3.5, it will become a cause of yarn breakage during yarn production. The amount of the polyether ester decylamine added to the polyamide component is preferably -61 - 201009148. When added in a small amount, the hygroscopic elongation of the polyamide component is lowered, and the function of shrinking the moisture at the time of moisture absorption which is the object of the present invention and shrinking the length of the appearance yarn is impaired. The side-by-side type composite fiber may have any fineness, cross-sectional shape, or composite form, and the monofilament fineness is preferably about 1_5 to 5.0 dtex. Further, the area ratio of the cross section of the composite fiber of the polyamine component and the polyester component is preferably in the range of polyamine component/polyester component = 30/70 to 70/30, more preferably 40/60 to 60. The range of /40. In the woven fabric of the present invention, the fibers constituting the bottom structure portion are preferably polyester fibers. The polyester forming the polyester fiber is exemplified by terephthalic acid as a main acid component and an alkanediol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, that is, selected from ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, and tetramethylene. The at least one diol of the group consisting of diol, pentamethylene glycol, and hexamethylene glycol is preferably a polyester obtained by using a glycol-based diol component. Further, a polyester, a chemical obtained by using a catalyst containing a titanium compound and a phosphorus compound, or a polyfluorene ester recovered from a raw material may be used as disclosed in the specification of International Publication No. WO2004/063435. Further, it may be an aliphatic polyester such as polylactic acid or a polyvalent lactic acid which is sterically misaligned. The above polyester polymer may have a small amount (usually 30 mol% or less) of a copolymerization component as needed. In this case, the difunctional carboxylic acid other than the terephthalic acid used may be, for example, isophthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyl dicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethane dicarboxylic acid, β-hydroxyl group. Aromatic, aliphatic, alicyclic ring of ethoxybenzoic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, 1,4·cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid Difunctional of the family -62- 201009148 carboxylic acid. Further, the diol compound other than the above diol may be, for example, an aliphatic or alicyclic group such as cyclohexane 1,4- 1,4-methanol, neopentyl glycol, bisphenol A or bisphenol S. Compounds and polyalkylene oxides, and the like. The woven fabric of the present invention can be produced by, for example, the following manufacturing method. First, the above polyamine component and the polyester component are conjugated into a side-by-side type as a pile for fluff. In this case, for example, it is described that the high viscosity component side is separated from the discharge hole φ on the low viscosity component side, and the discharge speed on the high viscosity side is small (spit is discharged), for example, as described in JP-A-2000- 1 445 181. The spinning die having an increased area is obtained by passing the molten polyester through a high-viscosity side discharge hole and passing the molten polyamine to the side of the low-viscosity side discharge port and joining, and cooling and solidifying. Further, in the present invention, the spinning die at this time may be appropriately designed as a side-by-side hollow composite fiber. The so-called separate extension of the yarn obtained by spinning after stretching and then heat-treating as needed may also be carried out by so-called direct extension without temporarily stretching under the unstretched filament and then heat-treating as needed. The method in the way. The spinning speed in the spinning may be, for example, a spinning speed of about 1 000 to 3500 m/min. Further, in the case where the elongation and the heat treatment are set to be 1 to 60%, and usually about 20 to 45%, the elongation after stretching is preferable because of the curling property, the braidability, and the like. The yarns for the piles are preferably in the range of 1.5 to 5.0 dtex of the single yarn, 40 to 200 dtex of the total fineness, and 30 to 150 filaments. These pile yarns (composite fibers) have potential crimping properties and exhibit potential crimping properties when subjected to heat treatment under dyeing processing or the like as will be described later. Therefore, when moisture is absorbed, since the polyamide component is swollen and elongated, and the length of the poly-63-201009148 ester component hardly changes, the crimp ratio (the length of the crimped fiber A is shortened) can be improved. On the other hand, since the polyamide component shrinks during drying and the length of the polyester component hardly changes, the crimp ratio decreases (the appearance length of the crimped fiber A becomes long). Since the above-mentioned pile yarn for fluff is easily improved in moisture absorption at the time of moisture absorption, it is preferable to use a twisted yarn or a weak twist yarn of 300 T/m or less. In particular, it is preferred to have no silk. If it is strong silk, if the strong silk is given, the shrinkage rate during moisture absorption is not easy to improve. Further, even if the number of interlaces is about 20 to 60 /πι, the warp and weft interlaced air processing and/or the general false twist crimping may be performed. On the other hand, the yarn for the bottom structure portion can also, for example, melt-spin the above-mentioned polyester from a general spinning nozzle, and temporarily roll it into an unstretched yarn at a speed of 2000 to 4300 m/min (intermediate alignment yarn). ), and then extended, can also be extended before the take-up. Further, the intermediate alignment yarn may be heated to 180 to 20 (TC in a relaxed state (1.5 to 10% excess feed) by using a heater, thereby becoming an unstretched filament having self-extensibility under heating (intermediate alignment) In the yarn for the bottom structure portion, the fiber form is not particularly limited, and may be a long fiber or a short fiber. Among them, a long fiber (multifilament which is preferably made of no or weak) is exemplified. The bottom tissue portion may be subjected to false twist crimping processing, or Taslan processing or warp and weft interlacing processing, etc. There is no particular limitation on the total fineness, the single filament fineness, and the number of filaments of the yarn. However, in terms of texture, the total fineness is 30 to 400 dtex (more preferably 50 to 200 dtex), and the single fiber fineness is 5.5 to 5 dtex (more preferably 1 to 4 dtex) -64 to 201009148, and the number of filaments It is suitable for the range of 20 to 100. Next, the above-mentioned pile for the pile yarn and the bottom tissue portion are used to make a loop composed of a bottom structure portion and a loop pile portion having a woven structure or a braided structure. Fluff fabric. At this time, the weave structure is not limited, and is exemplified by, for example, velvet. Fabric, weft-wool fabric, sinker fluffy fabric, Lamuer weave, warp-dye-wool weave, etc. When forming the cut pile, the front end of the loop pile is cut by a shearing machine, etc. φ Next, The dyeing process is performed on the woven fabric, and the conjugate fiber contained in the bristles exhibits a potential crimping into a crimped fiber by the heat of the dyeing process. The temperature of the dyeing process is 100 to 140 ° C (better) It is preferably from 110 to 13 5 ° c), and the retention time of the highest temperature is preferably in the range of 5 to 40 minutes. Under these conditions, the composite fiber can be made of polyester by dyeing the fabric. The composition and the polyamide component have poor heat shrinkage and exhibit curling.
施以染色加工之布料通常係實施乾熱最終定型。此時 ' ,乾熱最終定型之溫度以120〜20(TC (更好爲140〜180°C • ),時間以1~3分鐘之範圍內較佳。但,當乾熱最終定型 之溫度低於120 °C時,容易殘留染色加工時產生之摺痕, 又,會有完工製品之尺寸安定性不良之問題。相反地,當 乾熱最終定型之溫度高於200°C時,染色加工時展現之複 合纖維捲縮降低,有使纖維硬化且原布料質地變硬之情況 〇 對該等立毛布料施行吸水加工時,容易使上述捲縮纖 -65- 201009148 維吸濕時之捲縮率增加而較佳。另外,若在不損及本發明 主要目的之範圍內’亦可附加使用加熱加壓加工(軋光加 工)、撥水加工、慣用方法之鹼減量加工、起毛加工、紫 外線遮蔽或抗菌劑、消臭劑、防蟲劑、蓄光劑、逆反射劑 、負離子發生劑等賦予機能之各種加工。 另外’依據本發明,使用上述之立毛布料可提供選自 由便服用衣料、羊毛用衛生衣、毛衣、外衣用衣料、運動 用衣料、內襯用衣料、尿布及介護用被單等醫療.衛生用 0 品、睡衣寢具、椅子或沙發等表面材料、地毯、汽車座椅 材料、室內用品組成之群組之纖維製品。該等纖維製品由 於含有上述之立毛布料,因此在吸濕時藉由使上述捲縮纖 維之捲縮率可逆地增加使立毛高度變小。結果,由於布料 之厚度降低使布料之保溫性下降,而達到出汗時降低暑熱 感之效果。The fabric to be dyed is usually subjected to dry heat final setting. At this time, the final setting temperature of dry heat is 120~20 (TC (more preferably 140~180 °C • ), and the time is better in the range of 1-3 minutes. However, when the dry heat is finalized, the temperature is low. At 120 °C, it is easy to leave the creases generated during the dyeing process, and there is a problem that the dimensional stability of the finished product is poor. Conversely, when the final temperature of the dry heat is higher than 200 °C, the dyeing process is performed. The shrinkage of the composite fiber exhibited is reduced, and the fiber is hardened and the texture of the original fabric is hardened. When the absorbent fabric is subjected to water absorption processing, the crimping rate of the above-mentioned crimped fiber-65-201009148 dimension is easily increased. Further, it is preferable to use heat and pressure processing (calendering), water repellent processing, alkali reduction processing, raising processing, ultraviolet shielding or the like in the range which does not impair the main object of the present invention. An antibacterial agent, a deodorant, an insect repellent, a light storage agent, a retroreflector, an anion generator, etc., impart various functions to the function. Further, according to the present invention, the use of the above-mentioned rag fabric can be selected from the case of taking clothes and wool. Raw materials for garments, sweaters, outerwear, sportswear, linings, diapers, and quilts, etc.. Hygiene products, pyjamas, bedding, chairs or sofas, carpet materials, car seat materials, indoors A fibrous product of a group consisting of the above-mentioned fabrics, which have a reversible increase in the crimping rate of the crimped fibers at the time of moisture absorption, thereby reducing the height of the standing hair. The reduction in thickness reduces the heat retention of the fabric and reduces the heat sensation when sweating.
以下,針對上述3 4〜3 8中相關之本發明實施形態加以 詳細的說明。 G 本發明之三層構造布料係以表裏之底組織與連結表裏 ^ 之底組織之連結部構成之三層構造布料,上述連結部中含 · 有吸濕時之捲縮率增加之捲縮纖維A。由於該連結部中含 有捲縮纖維A,因此如圖8之模式的顯示般,由於吸濕時 該捲縮纖維A捲縮率可逆地增加使連結部之外觀長度變短 ’使布料之厚度變小。因此結果,於出汗時可減低暑熱感 該等捲縮纖維A以同時滿足下列(1)與(2)之要件 66 - 201009148 之捲縮纖維較佳。 (1) 捲縮纖維A爲將聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分接合成 . 並列型而成之複合纖維。 (2) 吸濕時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC與乾燥時捲縮 .纖維A之捲縮率DC之差異(HC-DC )爲0.5 %以上(較好 5 %以上)。 其中,所謂乾燥時,係將試料放置在溫度2 0 °C、濕度 φ 65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態,另一方面,所謂吸濕時 ,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH之環境下24小 時後之狀態。 其中,當吸濕時之捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC與乾燥時 之捲縮纖維A之捲縮率DC之差異(HC-DC)未達0.5 %時 ,有吸濕時布料之透氣性不降低而不佳。且,乾燥時捲縮 纖維A之捲縮率DC較好在50〜80%之範圍內。另一方面 ,吸濕時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC較好在60~90%之範圍 參 內。 ' 該捲縮纖維A較好爲以如下列之聚酯成分與聚醯胺成 • 分接合成並列型而成之複合纖維’且較好爲具有展現潛在 捲縮性能之捲縮構造之捲縮纖維。 亦即,上述聚醯胺成分爲主鏈中具有醯胺鍵之聚合物 ,舉例爲例如尼龍4、尼龍6、尼龍12、尼龍46、尼龍66 等。尤其就成本面、廣用性、製絲性等觀點而言’以尼龍 6、尼龍66較隹。又,該等聚醯胺成分亦可與已知爲基劑 之成分共聚合,或者該等聚醯胺成分中亦可含有氧化鈦或 -67- 201009148 碳黒等顔料、習知之抗氧化劑、抗靜電劑、耐光劑等。 另一方面,上述聚酯成分較好係由構成該聚酯之重複 單位中對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有60〜99.5莫耳%,且間 苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有0.5-40莫耳%之共聚合聚酯構成 者。通常,聚酯之熱收縮率比聚醯胺低,但藉由採用該等 共聚合聚酯作爲聚酯可使聚酯之熱收縮率接近聚醯胺。結 果,在乾燥時之捲縮彎曲構造中,在吸濕時之捲縮彎曲構 造中,容易成爲膨潤之聚醯胺成分位於外側,聚酯成分位 於內側之構造,而易於提高捲縮率。其中,當對苯二甲酸 乙二酯單位未達60莫耳%時,無法充分維持所得複合纖維 之強伸長度等基本物性而不適當。當對苯二甲酸乙二酯單 位超過99.5莫耳%,間苯二甲酸乙二酯未達0.5莫耳%時 ,在複合纖維吸濕時不太提高捲縮率(捲縮絲之外觀長短 不縮短),作爲布料時有無法獲得充分低厚度之問題。當 間苯二甲酸乙二酯超過40莫耳%時,無法維持複合纖維之 強伸長度等基本物性,另外熱安定性亦劣化,且由於製絲 步驟中之分解性異物而有紡絲口之模嘴部分之過濾壓(充 塡壓力)顯著上升之問題。 該等聚酯可爲以任意方法製造者,若對例如聚對苯二 甲酸乙二酯加以說明,係使對苯二甲酸與乙二醇直接酯化 反應,使如對苯二甲酸二甲酯之對苯二甲酸低級烷酯與乙 二醇直接酯化反應,或使對苯二甲酸與環氧乙烷反應等’ 產生對苯二甲酸之二醇酯及/或其低聚合物。接著使該產 物在減壓下加熱且聚縮合反應至所需之聚合度爲止而製造 -68 - 201009148 又,該聚酯除構成聚酯之對苯二甲 . 苯二甲酸乙二酯成分以外,亦可共聚合 三種成分較好爲二羧酸成分或二醇成分 .種二羧酸成分可舉例爲例如苯二甲酸、 萘二羧酸、二苯基二羧酸、二苯氧基乙 基乙氧基苯甲酸之二官能性芳香族二羧 φ 二酸、草酸之二官能性脂肪族二羧酸、 等。又上述二醇成分之一部分亦可經其 該等二醇成分舉例爲例如環己烷-1,4_二 雙酚A、雙酚S、2,2-雙(4-β-羥基乙氧 (4-β-羥基乙氧基苯基)颯、2,2-雙( 基乙氧基)苯基)丙烷之脂肪族、脂環 。另外,上述聚酯中可依據需要少量地 物者,亦可爲少量地使用季戊四醇、三 Φ 三酸等鏈分支劑者。除此之外,本發明 ' —般聚酯同樣添加二氧化鈦、碳黑等顏 * 、抗著色劑。 該聚酯成分中較好含有聚醚酯醯胺 有聚醚酯醯胺時,聚酯成分成爲柔軟, 胺成分膨潤之際使聚酯成分易於追隨, 縮率提高故而較佳。該聚醚酯醯胺對聚 對於聚酯成分重量以5〜55重量%較佳。 則複合纖維吸濕時,捲縮率不太提高( 酸乙二酯成分及間 第三種成分,該第 之任一種。至於該 二溴對苯二甲酸、 院二羧酸、如β ·羥 酸、如癸二酸、己 1,4-環己烷二羧酸 他二醇成分取代, 甲醇、新戊二醇、 基苯基)丙烷、雙 3,5-二溴-4- ( 2-羥 族、芳香族之二醇 摻合熔融其他聚合 羥甲基丙烷、偏苯 之聚酯當然亦可與 料、習知抗氧化劑 。當聚酯成分中含 於吸濕時,在聚醯 易於使吸濕時之捲 酯成分之添加量相 若未達5重量%, 捲縮纖維的外觀長 -69- 201009148 度難以變短),作爲布料時會有無法獲得充分之厚度降低 之問題。另外,當超過55重量%時,會有無法穩定地紡絲 之問題。 該聚醚酯醯胺較好爲由兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子 量500~5,00()之聚醯胺(3)與數平均分子量1,600〜3,000 . 之雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)所衍生。「衍生」意指 使兩種成分反應獲得者,亦可表示經共聚合而得者。 兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)較好係由聚醯胺部分 鲁 與分子量調節劑構成者。該聚醯胺部分係由(1)內醯胺 開環聚合物、(2)胺基羧酸之聚縮合物,或(3)二羧酸 與二胺之聚縮合物之至少任一種構成,該等中,(1)之 內醯胺舉例爲丁內醯胺、戊內醯胺、己內醯胺、庚內醯胺 、十二烷內醯胺、十一烷內醯胺等。(2)之胺基羧酸舉 例爲ω-胺基己酸、ω-胺基庚酸、ω-胺基辛酸、ω-胺基癸酸 、11_胺基十一烷酸、12-胺基十二烷酸等。(3)之二羧酸 舉例爲己二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二酸、十二烷二 參 酸、間苯二甲酸等。又(3)之二胺舉例爲四亞甲基二胺 、五亞甲基二胺、六亞甲基二胺、七亞甲基二胺、八亞甲 · 基二胺、十亞甲基二胺等。以上該等之內醯胺、胺基羧酸 、二羧酸、二胺統稱爲聚醯胺部分形成性單體。 上述作爲兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之聚醯胺部 分形成性單體所例示者亦可兩種以上倂用。該等中較佳者 爲己內醯胺' 12-胺基十二烷酸及己二酸-六亞甲基二胺, 最佳者爲己內醯胺。 -70- 201009148 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)係進而使用碳數 4〜20之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,在該等存在下藉由 . 慣用之方法,使上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體經開環聚合或 聚縮合獲得。碳數4〜20之二羧酸舉例爲琥珀酸、戊二酸 .、己二酸、庚二酸、辛二酸 '壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二 酸、或十二烷二酸等脂肪酸二羧酸;對苯二甲酸、間苯二 甲酸、鄰苯二甲酸、或萘二羧酸等芳香族二羧酸;1,4-環 φ 己烷二羧酸、或二環己基-4,4-二羧酸等脂肪族二羧酸;或 5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉、或5-磺基間苯二甲酸鉀等5-磺基間 苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽等。該等中,較佳者爲脂肪族二羧酸、 芳香族二羧酸及5-磺基間苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽。更好爲己二 酸、對苯二甲酸、5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉。 以慣用之方法使聚醯胺部分形成性單體開環聚合或聚 縮合之際,其平均聚合度以2〜10時較佳,更好其平均聚 合度爲 3~8。其結果該聚醯胺部分之數平均分子量爲 φ 1 00-1,000 » 更好爲 3 00~700。 ' 再者上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)爲在分子量 ' 調節劑的碳數4〜20之二羧酸成分之兩末端賦予聚醯胺部 分之成分,於單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分,或亦可爲兩 末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分及單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成 分之混合物。爲混合物時,相對於1莫耳單末端賦予聚醯 胺部分之成分,兩末端賦予聚酸胺部分之成分成爲1〜10 莫耳而成之莫耳比較佳。更好爲相對於1莫耳之單末端賦 予之成分,兩末端賦予之成分爲3〜8莫耳。因此可適當的 -71 - 201009148 調整上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體之具有羧基之成分之量以 使兩末端具有羧基。若僅使用內醯胺及/或胺基羧酸作爲 聚醯胺部分形成性單體,則由於分子量調節劑爲二羧酸成 分,因此可輕易地製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺胺(a) 。使用二羧酸與二胺之聚縮合物作爲聚醯胺部分形成性單 . 體時,例如使用於聚合物之最終改變二羧酸之反應等方法 可製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)。 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之數平均分子量 @ 通常爲50 0~5,000,較好爲500 ~3,000。數平均分子量未達 500時會使聚醚酯醯胺本身之耐熱性降低,另一方面,當 超過5,000時由於反應性降低,因此聚醚酯醯胺製造時需 要更長時間。爲了使數平均分子量落在該範圍內,可選擇 碳數4〜2 0之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,亦可在聚醯 胺部分之聚合之際適當設定反應條件。 另外,雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)中,雙酚類舉 例爲雙酚A ( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基-2,2-丙烷)、雙酚F ( 〇 4,4’-二羥基二苯基甲烷)、雙酚S(4,4’-二羥基二苯基楓 )及4,4’-二羥基二苯基-2,2-丁烷等。該等中較佳者爲雙 — 酣A。 上述雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)係依慣用之方法 ’藉由將環氧乙烷加成於該等雙酚類上而得。又,亦可併 用環氧乙烷與其他環氧烷(環氧丙烷、1,2-環氧丁烷、 1,4-環氧丁烷等),但其他環氧烷之使用量以全部環氧乙 烷之重量爲準,通常在1 0重量%以下。 -72- 201009148 又上述加成物(b)對應於雙酚類之兩個羥基,聚合 有平均2〇〜7 0莫耳之環氧乙烷、其他環氧烷(以下稱爲環 , 氧乙院等)之情況較佳。更好爲聚合有32〜60莫耳之環氧 乙烷等之情況。亦即,對應於雙酚之一個羥基聚合(加成 )有10~35莫耳,較好16~30莫耳,更好16〜20莫耳之環 氧乙院等而成之加成物。 上述加成物(b)之數平均分子量通常爲1,600〜3,000 φ ’尤其是以使用環氧乙烷加成莫耳數爲32~60者較佳。若 數平均分子量未達1,600,則抗靜電性不足,另一方面, 超過3,000時,由於反應性降低而使得聚醚酯醯胺製造時 需要較長時間。數平均分子量較好爲1,800~2,400,環氧 乙烷等之加成莫耳數更好爲32〜40。使數平均分子量在該 範圍內,係考量雙酚類之分子量,藉由調整環氧乙烷等之 加成莫耳數而達成。 上述加成物(b)以聚醚酯醯胺中之上述(a)與(b • )之總重量爲準係在20〜80重量%之範圍內使用。若加成 ' 物(b)之量未達20重量%,則聚醚酯醯胺之抗靜電性劣 ' 化,另一方面,當超過80重量%時,由於聚醚酯醯胺之耐 熱性降低而不佳。更好,加成物(b)以上述(a)與(b )之總重量爲準係在40〜70重量%之範圍內使用。 本發明中使用之聚醚酯醯胺之相對黏度爲1.5〜3.5 ( 0.5重量%,間·甲酚溶液,25°C ),較好爲2.0~3.0。若未 達1.5,由於混練時與基底聚合物成分(聚醯胺成分及聚 酯成分)之熔融黏度差異大,故而容易滯留在導管內或紡 -73- 201009148 絲組件內,長時間實施紡絲容易引起吐出異常,使所得複 合纖維之品質不穩定。另一方面,若超過3.5,於製絲時 將成爲斷絲原因。 該聚醚酯醯胺對聚醯胺成分之添加量以0重量%最適 當。當少量添加時,聚醯胺成分之吸濕伸長性降低,而損 . 及本發明目的之吸濕時呈現捲縮而使外觀絲長度收縮之機 能。 上述並列型複合纖維可爲任意纖度、剖面形狀、複合 0 形態,作爲單絲纖度較宜爲1.5~5.0dtex左右。另外,聚 醯胺成分與聚酯成分之複合纖維之剖面之面積比,以聚醯 胺成分/聚酯成分=30/70~70/30之範圍較佳,更好爲 40/60-60/40 之範圍 。 本發明之立毛布料中,構成底組織部之纖維以聚酯纖 維較佳。形成聚酯纖維之聚酯例示者爲以對苯二甲酸作爲 主要之酸成分,與碳數2~6之烷二醇,亦即選自由乙二醇 、三亞甲基二醇、四亞甲基二醇、五亞甲基二醇、六亞甲 @ 基二醇等組成之群組之至少一種二醇,最好爲乙二醇爲主 之二醇成分而成之聚酯。另外,亦可爲如國際公開 · W〇2〇〇4/063435號說明書中之揭示般,使用含有鈦化合物 與磷化合物之觸媒獲得之聚酯、化學品或經材料回收之聚 醋。另外’亦可爲聚乳酸或立體錯合之聚乳酸等脂肪族聚 醋。 上述聚酯聚合物亦可依據需要具有少量(通常30莫 耳%以下)之共聚合成分。此時,使用之對苯二甲酸以外 -74- 201009148 之一官能性殘酸可爲例如間苯二甲酸、萘二竣酸、二苯基 二羧酸、二苯氧基乙烷二羧酸、β_羥基乙氧基苯甲酸、對_ . 氧基苯甲酸、5 -鈉磺基間苯二甲酸、己二酸、癸二酸、 1,4 -環己烷二羧酸之芳香族、脂肪族、脂環族之二官能性 .羧酸。又,上述二醇以外之二醇化合物可爲例如環己烷_ 1,4-二甲醇、新戊二醇、雙酚a、雙酚s等脂肪族、脂環 族、芳香族之二醇化合物及聚環氧烷等。 Φ 本發明之三層構造布料可藉由下列之製造方法製造。 首先,將上述聚醯胺成分與聚酯成分複合紡絲成並列型作 爲連結部用絲條。此時,例如可如特開2000-144518號公 報中所記載,使用將高黏度成分側與低黏度成分側之吐出 孔分離,且使高黏度側之吐出線速度較小(吐出面積增大 )之紡絲模嘴,藉由使熔融聚酯通過高黏度側吐出孔及使 熔融聚醯胺通過低黏度側吐出孔側並接合,且經冷卻固化 之方法獲得紡絲條。又本發明中,藉由適當設計此時之紡 φ 絲模嘴,作爲並列型中空複合纖維亦可。紡絲所得之絲條 ' 除在暫且捲取後將其延伸且進而視需要進行熱處理之所謂 ' 分別延伸方式以外,亦可採用暫且不捲取未延伸絲下延伸 且進而視需要進行熱處理之所謂直接延伸方式中之方法。 上述紡絲中紡絲速度可採用例如通常採用之1〇〇〇~3 5 00m/ 分鐘左右之紡絲速度者。又,延伸、熱處理係設定在延伸 後之切斷伸長度爲1〇〜60%,通常爲20〜45°/。左右之條件下 ,因捲縮之表現、製編織性等而言爲較佳。 該等連結部用絲條以單絲纖度〗·5〜5.0dtex、總纖度 -75- 201009148 40〜200dtex、纖絲數30〜150條之範圍較佳。 該等連結部用絲條(複合纖維)具有潛在之捲縮性能 ,且如後述般,在染色加工等下承受熱處理時展現潛在之 - 捲縮性能。因此吸濕時,由於聚醯胺成分膨潤、伸長,且 聚酯成分之長度幾乎不引起變化,故可提升捲縮率(捲縮 . 纖維A之外觀長度變短)。另一方面,乾燥時由於聚醯胺 成分收縮,且聚酯成分之長度幾乎不引起變化,因此捲縮 率下降(捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變長)。 @ 上述連結部用絲條在吸濕時由於捲縮率容易提高,因 此以無撚絲或進行3 OOT/m以下撚絲之弱撚絲較佳。尤其 ,以無撚絲較佳。如強撚絲般,若賦予強撚絲,吸濕時之 捲縮率不易提高而不佳。又,即使以使交織數成爲20~60 個/m左右之方式進行經緯交錯空氣加工及/或施以一般假 撚捲縮加工亦無妨。 另一方面,底組織部用絲條亦可例如使上述之聚酯自 一般之紡絲口模嘴熔融紡絲,以2000〜4300m/分鐘之速度 〇 暫時捲成未延伸絲(中間配向絲),再經延伸,亦可在捲 取之前延伸。又,亦可使用加熱器將中間配向絲加熱至 - 180〜200 °C,以鬆驰之狀態(過量進料1.5~10%)熱處理 ’成爲加熱下具有自身伸長性之未延伸絲(中間配向絲) 〇 該底組織部用絲條中,纖維形態並無特別限制,可爲 長纖維亦可爲短纖維。其中,例示較佳者爲無撚或弱撚而 成之長纖維(多纖絲)。該底組織部用絲條亦可爲施行假 -76-Hereinafter, the embodiments of the present invention related to the above 3 4 to 38 will be described in detail. G The three-layer structure fabric of the present invention is a three-layer structure fabric composed of a bottom structure of the front and back and a joint portion connecting the bottom and bottom of the watch, and the joint portion includes a crimped fiber having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption. A. Since the crimping fiber A is contained in the joint portion, as shown in the pattern of Fig. 8, the curling rate of the crimped fiber A reversibly increases when the moisture is absorbed, so that the length of the joint portion becomes shorter. small. As a result, it is possible to reduce the heat sensation when sweating, and the crimped fibers A are preferably made of the crimped fibers satisfying the following requirements (1) and (2) 66 - 201009148. (1) The crimped fiber A is a composite fiber obtained by joining a polyester component and a polyamide component into a side-by-side type. (2) The crimp ratio HC of the crimped fiber A at the time of moisture absorption is curled during drying. The difference in the crimp ratio DC (HC-DC) of the fiber A is 0.5% or more (preferably 5% or more). In the case of drying, the sample is placed in a state of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of φ 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, when the moisture is absorbed, the sample is placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and humidity. The state after 24 hours in an environment of 90% RH. Wherein, when the difference between the crimping ratio HC of the crimped fiber A and the crimping ratio DC of the crimped fiber A during drying (HC-DC) is less than 0.5%, the moisture permeability of the fabric when moisture is absorbed Not lowering is not good. Further, the crimping ratio DC of the crimped fiber A during drying is preferably in the range of 50 to 80%. On the other hand, the crimping rate HC of the crimped fiber A during moisture absorption is preferably in the range of 60 to 90%. The crimped fiber A is preferably a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined together in a side-by-side manner, and is preferably a crimped structure having a crimping structure exhibiting a potential crimping property. fiber. That is, the above polyamine component is a polymer having a guanamine bond in the main chain, and examples thereof include, for example, nylon 4, nylon 6, nylon 12, nylon 46, and nylon 66. In particular, nylon 6 and nylon 66 are relatively sturdy in terms of cost, versatility, and yarn-making properties. Further, the polyamine components may be copolymerized with a component known as a base, or the polyamide components may contain titanium oxide or a pigment such as -67-201009148 carbonium, a known antioxidant, and an anti-oxidant. Electrostatic agent, light stabilizer, etc. On the other hand, the above polyester component preferably accounts for 60 to 99.5 mol% of the ethylene terephthalate unit in the repeating unit constituting the polyester, and the ethylene isophthalate unit accounts for 0.5 to 40 moles. % of the copolymerized polyester of the ear. Generally, the heat shrinkage of the polyester is lower than that of the polyamine, but the heat shrinkage of the polyester is brought close to the polyamine by using the copolymerized polyester as the polyester. As a result, in the crimping and bending structure at the time of drying, in the crimping and bending structure at the time of moisture absorption, it is easy to form a swelled polyamidamide component on the outer side and a polyester component on the inner side, and it is easy to increase the crimp ratio. Among them, when the unit of ethylene terephthalate is less than 60 mol%, the basic physical properties such as the strong elongation of the obtained composite fiber cannot be sufficiently maintained. When the ethylene terephthalate unit exceeds 99.5 mol% and the isophthalic acid ethylene diester does not reach 0.5 mol%, the crimping rate is not increased when the composite fiber absorbs moisture (the length of the crimped filament is not long) Shortening), there is a problem that a sufficient low thickness cannot be obtained as a cloth. When the ethylene isophthalate exceeds 40 mol%, the basic physical properties such as the strong elongation of the composite fiber cannot be maintained, and the thermal stability is also deteriorated, and the spinning port is molded due to the decomposable foreign matter in the spinning step. The filtration pressure (filling pressure) of the mouth portion is significantly increased. The polyesters may be produced by any method. For example, for example, polyethylene terephthalate is directly esterified with terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol to make dimethyl terephthalate. The terephthalic acid lower alkyl ester is directly esterified with ethylene glycol, or the terephthalic acid is reacted with ethylene oxide to produce a terephthalic acid glycol ester and/or its low polymer. Then, the product is heated under reduced pressure and polycondensed to a desired degree of polymerization to produce -68 - 201009148. Further, in addition to the terephthalic acid phthalate component constituting the polyester, The three components may also be copolymerized, preferably a dicarboxylic acid component or a diol component. The dicarboxylic acid component may, for example, be phthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyl dicarboxylic acid or diphenoxyethyl B. a difunctional aromatic dicarboxylic acid φ diacid of oxybenzoic acid, a difunctional aliphatic dicarboxylic acid of oxalic acid, and the like. Further, a part of the above diol component may also be exemplified by such diol components as, for example, cyclohexane-1,4-dibisphenol A, bisphenol S, 2,2-bis(4-β-hydroxyethoxy ( An aliphatic or alicyclic ring of 4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)anthracene or 2,2-bis(ylethoxy)phenyl)propane. Further, in the above polyester, a small amount of the material may be used, and a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol or tri-tristri-acid may be used in a small amount. In addition to the above, the general polyester of the present invention is also added with an anti-coloring agent such as titanium dioxide or carbon black. The polyester component preferably contains a polyether ester decylamine. When the polyether ester decylamine is present, the polyester component is soft, and when the amine component swells, the polyester component is easily followed, and the shrinkage ratio is improved. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably used in an amount of 5 to 55% by weight based on the weight of the polyester component. When the composite fiber absorbs moisture, the crimp ratio is not increased (the acid ethylene glycol component and the third component, any of the first ones. As for the dibromoterephthalic acid, the hospital dicarboxylic acid, such as β-hydroxyl Acid, such as azelaic acid, hexa-1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid diol component substitution, methanol, neopentyl glycol, phenyl) propane, bis 3,5-dibromo-4-( 2- The combination of a hydroxy group and an aromatic diol to melt other polymerized hydroxymethylpropane and a benzene-based polyester may of course be used as a conventional antioxidant. When the polyester component is contained in moisture absorption, it is easy to be used in the polymerization. When the amount of the ester component added during moisture absorption is less than 5% by weight, the appearance of the crimped fiber is difficult to be shortened from -69 to 201009148. When the fabric is used, a sufficient thickness reduction cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when it exceeds 55% by weight, there is a problem that the spinning cannot be stably performed. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably a poly phthalamide (3) having a number average molecular weight of 500 to 5,00 () and a number average molecular weight of 1,600 to 3,000. Derived from the alkane adduct (b). "Derivative" means the one obtained by reacting two components, or the one obtained by copolymerization. The polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals is preferably composed of a polyamidene moiety and a molecular weight modifier. The polyamine moiety is composed of at least one of (1) an indoleamine ring-opening polymer, (2) a polycondensate of an aminocarboxylic acid, or (3) a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine. Among these, the guanamine in (1) is exemplified by butane decylamine, valeroinamide, caprolactam, heptanoin, dodecane decylamine, undecyl decylamine and the like. The aminocarboxylic acid of (2) is exemplified by ω-aminohexanoic acid, ω-amino heptanoic acid, ω-aminooctanoic acid, ω-amino decanoic acid, 11-aminoundecanoic acid, and 12-amino group. Dodecanoic acid, etc. The (3) dicarboxylic acid is exemplified by adipic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, dodecane dibasic acid, isophthalic acid and the like. Further, the diamine of (3) is exemplified by tetramethylene diamine, pentamethylene diamine, hexamethylene diamine, heptamethylene diamine, octa Methylene diamine, and decamethylene di Amines, etc. The above-mentioned indoleamine, aminocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid, and diamine are collectively referred to as a polyamidene moiety-forming monomer. The above-mentioned polyamine moiety-forming monomer which is a polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals may be exemplified by two or more types. Preferred among these are caprolactam '12-aminododecanoic acid and adipic acid-hexamethylenediamine, and the most preferred is caprolactam. -70- 201009148 The above-mentioned polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is further used as a molecular weight modifier using a carbon number 4 to 20 dicarboxylic acid component, and in the presence of the above, the above polycondensation is carried out by a conventional method. The amine moiety-forming monomer is obtained by ring-opening polymerization or polycondensation. Examples of the dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 20 carbon atoms are succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid 'sebacic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, or dodecane di Fatty acid dicarboxylic acid; aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, phthalic acid or naphthalene dicarboxylic acid; 1,4-cycloφ hexane dicarboxylic acid or dicyclohexyl An aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as a 4,4-dicarboxylic acid; or an alkali metal 5-sulfoisophthalate such as sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate or potassium 5-sulfoisophthalate. Among these, preferred are aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, aromatic dicarboxylic acids, and alkali metal salts of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid. More preferably, it is adipic acid, terephthalic acid, or sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate. When the polyamidene moiety-forming monomer is subjected to ring-opening polymerization or polycondensation by a conventional method, the average degree of polymerization is preferably from 2 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 8. As a result, the number average molecular weight of the polyamine moiety is φ 1 00-1,000 » more preferably 30,000-700. Further, the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is a component which imparts a polyamine moiety at both ends of a dicarboxylic acid component having a carbon number of 4 to 20 of a molecular weight modifier, and a polyamine is provided at a single terminal. A portion of the component may also be a mixture of a component that imparts a polyamine moiety at both ends and a component that imparts a polyamine moiety to the single terminal. In the case of a mixture, it is preferable that the component which imparts the polyamine moiety to the monomolecular terminal at one end and the component of the polyamic acid moiety at both ends becomes 1 to 10 moles. More preferably, it is a component imparted to a single end of 1 mole, and the components imparted at both ends are 3 to 8 moles. Therefore, the amount of the carboxyl group-containing component of the above polyamine moiety-forming monomer can be adjusted to have a carboxyl group at both ends, as appropriate -71 - 201009148. If only indoleamine and/or an aminocarboxylic acid is used as the polyamine moiety-forming monomer, since the molecular weight modifier is a dicarboxylic acid component, a polyamine amine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be easily produced (a) ). When a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine is used as a polyimylamine moiety, a polyamine which has a carboxyl group at both terminals can be produced by a method such as a reaction for finally changing a dicarboxylic acid of a polymer. ). The number average molecular weight @ of the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is usually from 50 to 5,000, preferably from 500 to 3,000. When the number average molecular weight is less than 500, the heat resistance of the polyether ester decylamine itself is lowered. On the other hand, when the reactivity exceeds 5,000, the polyether ester amide is required to be produced for a longer period of time due to a decrease in reactivity. In order to make the number average molecular weight fall within the range, a dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms may be selected as the molecular weight modifier, and the reaction conditions may be appropriately set in the polymerization of the polyamine moiety. Further, among the bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adducts (b), bisphenols are exemplified by bisphenol A (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-propane) and bisphenol F (〇) 4,4'-dihydroxydiphenylmethane), bisphenol S (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl maple), and 4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-butane. The preferred of these is bis-A. The above bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adduct (b) is obtained by a method of adding ethylene oxide to the bisphenols. Further, ethylene oxide and other alkylene oxides (propylene oxide, 1,2-butylene oxide, 1,4-butylene oxide, etc.) may be used in combination, but other alkylene oxides are used in all rings. The weight of oxyethane is normal, and is usually 10% by weight or less. -72- 201009148 Further, the above adduct (b) corresponds to two hydroxyl groups of bisphenols, and has an average of 2 to 70 moles of ethylene oxide and other alkylene oxides (hereinafter referred to as rings, oxygen B). The situation in hospitals, etc.) is better. More preferably, the polymerization has a condition of 32 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide or the like. That is, an hydroxy polymerization (addition) corresponding to bisphenol has an adduct of 10 to 35 moles, preferably 16 to 30 moles, more preferably 16 to 20 moles of oxygen. The number average molecular weight of the above-mentioned adduct (b) is usually 1,600 to 3,000 φ', and it is particularly preferable to use an ethylene oxide addition molar number of 32 to 60. If the average molecular weight is less than 1,600, the antistatic property is insufficient. On the other hand, when it exceeds 3,000, it takes a long time to manufacture the polyetheresteramine due to a decrease in reactivity. The number average molecular weight is preferably from 1,800 to 2,400, and the addition molar number of ethylene oxide or the like is more preferably from 32 to 40. When the number average molecular weight is within this range, the molecular weight of the bisphenol is considered, and it is achieved by adjusting the molar number of addition of ethylene oxide or the like. The above adduct (b) is used in the range of 20 to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b • ) in the polyetheresteramine. If the amount of the addition compound (b) is less than 20% by weight, the antistatic property of the polyether ester decylamine is deteriorated. On the other hand, when it exceeds 80% by weight, the heat resistance of the polyether ester decylamine is high. Reduced poorly. More preferably, the adduct (b) is used in the range of 40 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b). The relative viscosity of the polyether ester guanamine used in the present invention is 1.5 to 3.5 (0.5% by weight, m-cresol solution, 25 ° C), preferably 2.0 to 3.0. If it is less than 1.5, the difference in melt viscosity between the base polymer component (polyamide component and polyester component) during mixing is easy to stay in the conduit or in the spinning-73-201009148 wire assembly, and the spinning is performed for a long time. It is easy to cause abnormal discharge and the quality of the obtained composite fiber is unstable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 3.5, it will become a cause of yarn breakage during yarn production. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably added to the polyamine component in an amount of 0% by weight. When added in a small amount, the hygroscopic elongation of the polyamide component is lowered, and the function of the present invention is to shrink and to shrink the length of the appearance yarn. The side-by-side type composite fiber may have any fineness, cross-sectional shape, or composite 0 form, and the single-filament fineness is preferably about 1.5 to 5.0 dtex. Further, the area ratio of the cross-section of the composite fiber of the polyamide component and the polyester component is preferably in the range of polyamine component/polyester component = 30/70 to 70/30, more preferably 40/60-60/ The range of 40. In the woven fabric of the present invention, the fibers constituting the bottom structure portion are preferably polyester fibers. The polyester forming the polyester fiber is exemplified by terephthalic acid as a main acid component and an alkanediol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, that is, selected from ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, and tetramethylene. The at least one diol of the group consisting of diol, pentamethylene glycol, and hexamethylene glycol is preferably a polyester composed of a glycol-based diol component. Further, a polyester, a chemical or a material-recovered polyester obtained by using a catalyst containing a titanium compound and a phosphorus compound may be used as disclosed in the specification of International Publication No. 4/063435. Further, it may be an aliphatic lactic acid such as polylactic acid or a polyvalent lactic acid which is sterically misaligned. The above polyester polymer may have a small amount (usually 30 mol% or less) of a copolymerization component as needed. In this case, the functional residual acid other than terephthalic acid-74-201009148 may be, for example, isophthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyl dicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethane dicarboxylic acid, β-Hydroxyethoxybenzoic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, aromatics of 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, fat Family, alicyclic difunctional. carboxylic acid. Further, the diol compound other than the above diol may be an aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic diol compound such as cyclohexane 1,4- 1,4-methanol, neopentyl glycol, bisphenol a or bisphenol s. And polyalkylene oxide and the like. Φ The three-layer construction fabric of the present invention can be produced by the following manufacturing method. First, the above polyamine component and the polyester component are conjugated into a side-by-side type as a yarn for a joint portion. In this case, for example, as described in JP-A-2000-144518, the high-viscosity component side is separated from the discharge hole on the low-viscosity component side, and the discharge speed on the high-viscosity side is small (the discharge area is increased). The spinning nozzle is obtained by passing the molten polyester through a high-viscosity side discharge hole and passing the molten polyamine to the side of the low-viscosity side discharge port and joining, and cooling and solidifying. Further, in the present invention, the spun φ wire nozzle can be appropriately designed as a parallel type hollow composite fiber. The yarn obtained by spinning 'in addition to the so-called 'different extension method', which is extended after being temporarily taken up and then heat-treated as needed, may be used without temporarily taking up the unstretched filament and then heat-treating as needed. The method in the direct extension mode. The spinning speed in the above spinning can be, for example, a spinning speed of about 1 to 3,500 m/min which is usually used. Further, the elongation and heat treatment are set so that the elongation at break after stretching is from 1 〇 to 60%, usually from 20 to 45 °/. Under the left and right conditions, it is preferable because of the performance of curling, the weaving property, and the like. The connecting portions are preferably in the range of a single yarn fineness of 5 to 5.0 dtex, a total fineness of -75 to 201009148, 40 to 200 dtex, and a number of filaments of 30 to 150. The yarns (composite fibers) of the joint portions have potential crimping properties, and exhibit potential caulking properties when subjected to heat treatment under dyeing processing or the like as will be described later. Therefore, when moisture absorption, since the polyamide component is swollen and stretched, and the length of the polyester component hardly changes, the crimp ratio (winding. The appearance length of the fiber A is shortened) can be improved. On the other hand, since the polyamide component shrinks during drying and the length of the polyester component hardly changes, the crimp ratio decreases (the appearance length of the crimped fiber A becomes long). @ The above-mentioned connecting portion is preferably used for the moisture absorption at the time of moisture absorption. Therefore, it is preferable to use a non-twisted yarn or a weak twisted yarn of 3 OOT/m or less. In particular, it is preferred to have no silk. If it is strong silk, if the strong silk is given, the shrinkage rate during moisture absorption is not easy to improve. Further, even if the number of interlaces is about 20 to 60 pieces/m, the warp and weft interlacing air processing and/or the general false twisting processing may be performed. On the other hand, the bottom structure portion can also be melt-spun, for example, from the general spinning nozzle of the polyester, and temporarily rolled into an unstretched yarn (intermediate alignment yarn) at a speed of 2000 to 4300 m/min. , after extension, can also be extended before the take-up. Alternatively, the intermediate alignment yarn may be heated to -180 to 200 ° C using a heater, and heat-treated in a relaxed state (1.5 to 10% of excess feed) to become an unstretched filament having self-extensibility under heating (intermediate alignment) Silk) In the yarn for the bottom structure portion, the fiber form is not particularly limited, and may be a long fiber or a short fiber. Among them, long fibers (multifilaments) which are preferably innocent or weakly entangled are exemplified. The bottom tissue portion can also be used for the fake -76-
201009148 撚捲縮加工,或塔斯綸加工或經緯交錯加工等空氣 該絲條之總纖度、單絲纖度、纖絲數並無特別限制 質地之觀點而言,以總纖度爲 30〜400dtex ( 50~200 dtex),單絲纖度爲0.5〜5dtex(更好爲1~ 、纖絲數爲20〜100條之範圍較適當。 接著,使用上述連結部用絲條與底組織部分用 製編織三層構造之布料。此時,編織組織並無限制 以稱爲紙板針織之特開2002-235264號公報之圖2 之以結接絲(連結部用絲條)將表面層與內面層縫 之三層構造編織面料,或如特開2004-183128號公 1中所記載之紙板狀立體織物等較佳。 接著,對該等三層構造布料進行染色加工,藉 加工過程之熱使連結部中所含複合纖維展現潛在捲 捲縮纖維。 其中,上述染色加工之溫度爲 100~140°C ( 110~135°C ),時間以最高溫度之保持時間在5~40 範圍內較佳。在該等條件下,藉由對布料施以染色 上述複合纖維可藉由聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分之熱啦 展現捲縮。 施以染色加工之三層構造布料通常係實施乾_ 型。此時,乾熱最終定型之溫度以120~200°C ( 140~180°C),時間以1~3分鐘之範圍內較佳。隹 熱最終定型之溫度低於120°C時,容易殘留染色力I 生之摺痕,又,會有完工製品之尺寸安定性不良5 丨加工。 丨,但就 更好爲 4dtex) 絲條, 丨,例如 中所述 :褶而成 •報之圖 由染色 :縮成爲 更好爲 分鐘之 .加工, 縮差而 最終定 更好爲 ,當乾 工時產 問題。 -77- 201009148 相反地’當乾熱最終定型之溫度高於20(TC時,染色加工 時展現之複合纖維捲縮降低,有使纖維硬化且原布料質地 變硬之情況。 對該等三層構造布料施行吸水加工時,容易使上述捲 縮纖維在吸濕時之捲縮率增加而較佳。另外,若在不損及 本發明主要目的之範圍內,亦可附加使用加熱加壓加工( 乳光加工)、撥水加工、慣用方法之鹼減量加工、起毛加 工、紫外線遮蔽或抗菌劑、消臭劑、防蟲劑、蓄光劑、逆 反射劑、負離子發生劑等賦予機能之各種加工。 另外,依據本發明,使用上述之三層構造布料可提供 選自由便服用衣料、羊毛用衛生衣、毛衣、外衣用衣料、 運動用衣料、內襯用衣料、尿布及介護用被單等醫療·衛 生用品、睡衣寢具、椅子或沙發等表面材料、地毯、汽車 座椅材料、室內用品組成之群組之纖維製品。該等纖維製 品由於含有上述之三層構造布料,因此在吸濕時藉由使上 述捲縮纖維之捲縮率可逆地增加使連結部之外觀長度變小 。結果’由於布料之厚度降低使布料之保溫性下降,而達 到出汗時降低暑熱感之效果。 以下,就上述39〜44中相關之本發明實施形態加以詳 細說明。 本發明之布料必須以濕潤時捲縮率得以提高之捲縮纖 維A (以下有時簡稱爲「捲縮纖維a」或「纖維A」)及 未捲縮或濕潤時捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之纖維B(以下 ’有時簡稱爲「纖維B」)構成。布料在因出汗或降雨而 201009148 吸濕時’布料中所含之捲縮纖維A因捲縮量提高而使其外 觀長度變短。結果,使布料之厚度減少。 • 此時’可自該布料乾燥時之厚度(TD)與濕潤時之厚 度(TW),以下式計算出厚度之變化率,重要地是該厚 .度變化率在5%以上(較好爲10〜100%)。當該等厚度變 化率差未達5%時,無法使布料吸濕時之厚度充分減少而 不佳。201009148 捻 crimping processing, or Taslan processing or warp and weft processing, etc. The total fineness, monofilament fineness, and number of filaments of the yarn are not particularly limited, and the total fineness is 30 to 400 dtex (50 ~200 dtex), the single-filament fineness is 0.5 to 5 dtex (more preferably 1~, and the number of filaments is 20 to 100). Next, the above-mentioned joint portion is knitted with three layers for the yarn and the bottom portion. The fabric is constructed. At this time, the weave structure is not limited to the third layer of the surface layer and the inner layer by the bonding wire (the yarn for the joint portion) of Fig. 2 of the Japanese Patent Publication No. 2002-235264. The layered woven fabric is preferably a cardboard-like three-dimensional fabric as described in Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2004-183128. Next, the three-layered fabric is dyed and processed by the heat of the processing. The composite fiber comprises a latent crimped fiber, wherein the temperature of the dyeing process is 100 to 140 ° C (110 to 135 ° C), and the time is maintained at a maximum temperature in the range of 5 to 40. Under the condition, by dyeing the fabric to the above composite Vico exhibits crimping by the heat of the polyester component and the polyamide component. The three-layer fabric of the dyeing process is usually dry-type. At this time, the final setting temperature of dry heat is 120~200 °C. (140~180°C), the time is better in the range of 1~3 minutes. When the temperature of the final setting of the heat is lower than 120°C, the crease of the dyeing force I is easily left, and there will be finished products. Poor dimensional stability 5 丨 processing. 丨, but better for 4dtex) 丝, 丨, for example, as described in: pleated • reported by dyeing: shrinking into better minutes, processing, shrinkage The final decision is better, when the work is a problem. -77- 201009148 Conversely, when the temperature of final heat setting is higher than 20 (TC, the shrinkage of the composite fiber exhibited during dyeing processing is reduced, and the fiber is hardened and the texture of the original fabric is hardened. When the construction fabric is subjected to water absorbing processing, it is preferable to increase the crimp ratio of the crimped fiber at the time of moisture absorption, and it is also possible to additionally apply heat and pressure processing within a range not impairing the main object of the present invention. Emulsion processing, water treatment, conventional method of alkali reduction processing, raising processing, ultraviolet shielding or antibacterial agent, deodorant, insect repellent, light storage agent, retroreflective agent, negative ion generator, etc. Further, according to the present invention, the above-mentioned three-layer structure fabric can be used to provide medical care and hygiene selected from the group consisting of disposable clothing materials, wool sanitary garments, sweaters, outer garment materials, sports clothing materials, lining materials, diapers, and care sheets. a fibrous product of a group of materials such as supplies, pajamas, bedding, chairs or sofas, carpets, car seat materials, and interior products. Since the three-layer structure fabric described above is contained, the shrinkage ratio of the crimped fibers is reversibly increased during moisture absorption, so that the length of the joint portion is reduced. As a result, the heat retention of the fabric is lowered due to the decrease in the thickness of the fabric. The effect of reducing the heat sensation when sweating is achieved. Hereinafter, the embodiment of the present invention related to the above 39 to 44 will be described in detail. The fabric of the present invention must have a crimped fiber A having a higher crimp ratio at the time of wetting (hereinafter It is simply referred to as "coiled fiber a" or "fiber A") and has a crimped fiber B (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "fiber B") which is not curled or wet when it is not wet. 201009148 When sweating or raining, the crimping fiber A contained in the fabric is shortened due to an increase in the amount of shrinkage. As a result, the thickness of the fabric is reduced. • At this time, the fabric can be dried. The thickness (TD) at the time and the thickness (TW) at the time of wetting, the rate of change of the thickness is calculated by the following formula, and it is important that the degree of change of the thickness is 5% or more (preferably 10 to 100%). When the thickness change rate difference is less than 5%, Method of making fabric thickness sufficiently reduced moisture absorption and poor.
厚度變化率(%) =( (TD-TW) /TD) xlOO 其中,所謂乾燥時之厚度係將布料置於溫度2 0°C、濕 度65 %RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度,另一方 面,所謂吸濕時之厚度係將布料置於溫度20 °C、濕度 90%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料厚度。又,厚度 爲測定圖12中所示之布料之最高部分與最低部分之距離 φ Η者。另外,厚度可使用超高精密雷射變位計(KEYENCE 公司製造之型號LC-2400 )測定。 * 另外,本發明中所謂「吸濕時之捲縮率獲得提高」爲 濕潤時之捲縮率HC與乾燥時之捲縮率DC之差(HC-DC )在0.5%以上者。其中,所謂乾燥時係將布料置於溫度 2〇°C、濕度65 %RH環境下24小時後之狀態’另一方面, 所謂吸濕時係將布料置於溫度20°C、濕度90%RH環境下 24小時後之狀態。 本發明中,捲縮纖維A只要是吸濕時捲縮率獲得提高 -79- 201009148 之纖維則無特別限制’但以將聚醋成分與聚醯胺成分接合 成並列型而成之複合纖維’且展現潛在捲縮性能之具有捲 縮構造之捲縮纖維較佳。 · 其中,上述聚醯胺成分爲主鏈中具有醯胺鍵之聚合物 ,舉例爲例如尼龍4、尼龍6、尼龍12、尼龍46、尼龍66 · 等。尤其是就成本面、廣用性、製絲性等觀點而言’以尼 . 龍6、尼龍66較佳。又,該等聚醯胺成分亦可共聚合以基 劑而習知之成分,或者亦可在該等聚醯胺成分中含有氧化 © 鈦或碳黑等顏料、習知抗氧化劑、抗靜電劑、耐光劑等。 另一方面,上述聚酯成分較好係由構成聚酯之重複單 位中對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有60〜99.5莫耳% ’及間苯 二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有0.5〜40莫耳%之共聚合聚酯所構成 。通常,聚酯之熱收縮率比聚醯胺低,但可藉由採用該等 共聚合聚酯作爲聚酯而使聚酯之熱收縮率接近聚醯胺。其 結果,吸濕時之捲縮彎曲構造中,易成爲經膨潤之聚醯胺 成分位在外側,聚酯成分位在內側之構造,使捲縮率易於 〇 增大。其中,當對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位未達60莫耳%時, 由於無法充分保持所得複合纖維之強伸長度之基本物性而 ‘ 不佳。當對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位超過9 9.5莫耳%,間苯二 甲酸乙二酯未達0.5莫耳%時,複合纖維吸濕時捲縮率不 太增大(捲縮絲之外觀長度不變短),而有吸濕時布料之 厚度難以充分的減少之情況。當間苯二甲酸乙二酯超過40 莫耳%時,無法保持複合纖維之強伸長度等之基本物性, 又熱安定性亦劣化,於製絲步驟中由於分解性異物而有紡 -80- 201009148 絲模嘴部分之過濾壓(充塡壓力)顯著上升之情況。 該等聚酯可爲以任意方法製造者,例如若對聚對苯二 . 甲酸乙二酯加以說明,爲使對苯二甲酸與乙二醇直接酯化 反應,使如對苯二甲酸二甲酯之對苯二甲酸低級烷酯與乙 .二醇直接酯化反應,或使對苯二甲酸與環氧乙烷反應等, 生成對苯二甲酸之二醇酯及/或其低聚合物。接著藉由使 該生成物在減壓下加熱且聚縮合反應至所需聚合度而製造 又,該聚酯除構成聚酯之對苯二甲酸乙二酯成分及間 苯二甲酸乙二酯成分以外’亦可共聚合第三種成分,該第 三種成分較好爲二羧酸成分或二醇成分之任一種。至於該 等二羧酸成分可舉例爲例如鄰苯二甲酸、二溴對苯二甲酸 、萘二羧酸、二苯基二羧酸、二苯氧基乙烷二羧酸、如β-羥基乙氧基苯甲酸之二官能性芳香族二羧酸、如癸二酸、 己二酸、草酸之二官能性脂肪族二羧酸、14 -環己烷二羧 ® 酸等。又亦可以其他二醇成分取代上述二醇成分之一部分 ,該等二醇成分舉例爲例如如環己烷-1,4 -二甲醇、新戊二 * 醇、雙酚A、雙酚S、2,2-雙(4-β-羥基乙氧基苯基)丙烷 、雙(4-β-羥基乙氧基苯基)颯、2,2-雙(3,5-二溴-4-( 2 -經基乙氧基)苯基)丙院之脂肪族、脂環族、芳香族之 二醇。另外,上述聚酯中可依據需要少量摻合熔融其他聚 合物者,亦可爲少量地使用季戊吗醇、三羥甲基丙烷、偏 苯三酸等鏈分支劑者。除此之外,本發明之聚酯當然亦與 一般聚酯同樣添加二氧化鈦、碳黑等顏料,習知之抗氧化 -81 - 201009148 劑、抗變色劑。 該聚酯成分中較好含有聚醚酯醯胺。當聚酯成分中含 有聚醚酯醯胺時,聚酯成分變柔軟,吸濕時,在聚醯胺成 分膨潤之際使聚酯成分易於追隨,使吸濕時之捲縮率易於 增大而較佳。該聚醚酯醯胺對聚酯成分之添加量相對於聚 . 酯成分重量以5〜55重量%較佳。若未達5重量%,則複合 纖維吸濕時,捲縮率不太增大(捲縮纖維的外觀長度難以 變短),會有布料吸濕時之厚度無法充分的減少之情況。 @ 另外,當超過55重量%時,有無法穩定紡絲之情況。 該聚醚酯醯胺較好爲由兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子 量500-5,000之聚醯胺(a)與數平均分子量1,600~3,000 之雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)所衍生。「衍生」意指 使兩種成分反應獲得者,亦可表示經共聚合而得者。 兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)較好係由聚醯胺部分 與分子量調節劑構成者。該聚醯胺部分係由(1)內醯胺 開環聚合物、(2)胺基羧酸之聚縮合物,或(3)二羧酸 〇 與二胺之聚縮合物之至少任一種所構成,該等中,(1 ) ' 之內醯胺舉例爲丁內醯胺、戊內醯胺、己內醯胺、庚內醯 ' 胺、十二烷內醯胺、十一烷內醯胺等。(2)之胺基羧酸 舉例爲ω-胺基己酸' ω-胺基庚酸、ω-胺基辛酸、ω·胺基癸 酸、11-胺基十一烷酸、12-胺基十二烷酸等。(3)之二羧 酸舉例爲己二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二酸、十二烷 二酸、間苯二甲酸等。又(3)之二胺舉例爲四亞甲基二 胺、五亞甲基二胺、六亞甲基二胺、七亞甲基二胺、八亞 -82 - 201009148 甲基二胺、十亞甲基二胺等。以上該等內醯胺、胺基羧酸 '二羧酸、二胺通稱爲聚醯胺部分形成性單體》 . 上述作爲兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之聚醯胺部 分形成性單體所例示者亦可兩種以上倂用。該等中較佳者 . 爲己內醯胺、12-胺基十二烷酸及己二酸-六亞甲基二胺, 最佳者爲己內酿胺。 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)係進而使用碳數 φ 4〜20之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,在該等存在下藉由 慣用之方法,使上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體經開環聚合或 聚縮合獲得。碳數4〜20之二羧酸舉例爲琥珀酸、戊二酸 、己二酸、庚二酸、辛二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二 酸、或十二烷二酸等脂肪酸二羧酸;對苯二甲酸、間苯二 甲酸、鄰苯二甲酸、或萘二羧酸等芳香族二羧酸;1,4-環 己烷二羧酸、或二環己基-4,4-二羧酸等脂肪族二羧酸;或 5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉、或5-磺基間苯二甲酸鉀等5·磺基間 • 苯二 :甲酸鹼金屬鹽等。該等中,較佳者爲脂肪族二羧酸、 • 芳香族二羧酸及5-磺基間苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽。更好爲己二 • 酸、對苯二甲酸、5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉。 以慣用之方法使聚醯胺部分形成性單體開環聚合或聚 縮合之際,其平均聚合度以2~ 10時較佳’更好其平均聚 合度爲3~8。其結果該聚醯胺部分之數平均分子量爲 100~1,000,更好爲 300〜700。 再者上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)爲在分子量 調節劑的碳數4〜20之二羧酸成分之兩末端賦予聚醯胺部 -83- 201009148 分之成分’於單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分,或亦可爲兩 末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分及單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成 分之混合物。爲混合物時’相對於1莫耳單末端賦予聚醯 胺部分之成分,兩末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分成爲1~1〇 莫耳而成之莫耳比較佳。更好爲相對於1莫耳之單末端賦 予之成分,兩末端賦予之成分爲3〜8莫耳。因此可適當的 調整上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體之具有羧基之成分之量以 使兩末端具有羧基。若僅使用內醯胺及/或胺基羧酸作爲 參 聚醯胺部分形成性單體,則由於分子量調節劑爲二羧酸成 分,因此可輕易地製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺胺(a) 。使用二羧酸與二胺之聚縮合物作爲聚醯胺部分形成性單 體時,例如使用於聚合物之最終改變二羧酸之反應等方法 可製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)。 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之數平均分子量 通常爲500~5,000,較好爲500〜3,000。數平均分子量未達 500時會使聚醚酯醯胺本身之耐熱性降低,另一方面,當 〇 超過5,000時由於反應性降低,因此聚醚酯醯胺製造時需 要更長時間。爲了使數平均分子量落在該範圍內,可選擇 ^ 碳數4〜20之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,亦可在聚醯 胺部分之聚合之際適當設定反應條件。 另外,雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)中,雙酚類舉 例爲雙酚A ( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基-2,2·丙烷)、雙酚F( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基甲烷)、雙酚S(4,4’-二羥基二苯基碾 )及4,4’-二羥基二苯基-2,2-丁烷等。該等中較佳者爲雙 -84- 201009148 酚A。 上述雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)係依慣用之方法 . ,藉由將環氧乙烷加成於該等雙酚類上而得。又,亦可倂 用環氧乙烷與其他環氧烷(環氧丙烷、1,2-環氧丁院、 1,4-環氧丁烷等),但其他環氧烷之使用量以全部環氧乙 烷之重量爲準,通常在10重量%以下。 又上述加成物(b)對應於雙酚類之兩個羥基,聚合 φ 有平均2 0〜7 0莫耳之環氧乙烷、其他環氧烷(以下稱爲環 氧乙烷等)之情況較佳。更好爲聚合有3 2〜60莫耳之環氧 乙烷等之情況。亦即,對應於雙酚之一個羥基聚合(加成 )有10~35莫耳,較好16〜30莫耳,更好16〜20莫耳之環 氧乙烷等而成之加成物。 上述加成物(b)之數平均分子量通常爲1,600〜3,000 ,尤其是以使用環氧乙烷加成莫耳數爲32~60者較佳。若 數平均分子量未達1,600,則抗靜電性不足,另一方面, Φ 超過3,〇〇〇時,由於反應性降低而使得聚醚酯醯胺製造時 需要較長時間。數平均分子量較好爲1,800〜2,400,環氧 * 乙烷等之加成莫耳數更好爲32〜40。使數平均分子量在該 範圍內’可考量雙酚類之分子量,藉由調整環氧乙烷等之 加成莫耳數而達成。 上述加成物(b)以聚醚酯酿胺中之上述(a)與(b )之總重量爲準係在20〜80重量%之範圍內使用。若加成 物(b)之量未達20重量%,則聚醚酯醯胺之抗靜電性劣 化’另一方面,當超過80重量%時,由於聚醚酯醯胺之耐 -85- 201009148 熱性降低而不佳。更好,加成物(b)以上述(a)與(b )之總重量爲準係在40~70重量%之範圍內使用。 本發明中使用之聚醚酯醯胺之相對黏度爲1.5〜3.5 ( 0.5重量%,間·甲酚溶液,25°C ),較好爲2.0〜3.0。若未 達1.5,由於混練時與基底聚合物成分(聚醯胺成分及聚 . 酯成分)之熔融黏度差異大,故而容易滯留在導管內或紡 絲組件內,長時間實施紡絲容易引起吐出異常,使所得複 合纖維之品質不穩定。另一方面,若超過3.5之範圍,於 ❾ 製絲時將成爲斷絲原因。 該聚醚酯醯胺對聚醯胺成分之添加量以0重量%最適 當。當少量添加時,聚醯胺成分之吸濕伸長性降低,而損 及本發明目的之吸濕時呈現捲縮而使外觀絲長度收縮之機 能。 上述並列型複合纖維可爲任意纖度、剖面形狀、複合 形態,作爲單絲纖度較宜爲1.5~5.0dtex左右。另外,使 本發明之複合纖維成爲中空複合纖維時對於濕度之敏感度 © 變大’且蓬鬆性亦變大。另外,聚醯胺成分與聚酯成分之 複合纖維之剖面之面積比,以聚醯胺成分/聚酯成分 1 = 3 0/70〜70/30之範圍較佳,更好爲40/60~60/40之範圍。 使上述複合纖維成爲單絲數條之多纖絲時,該多纖絲 之總纖度並無特別限制,但作爲一般衣料用材料可在 40-200 dtex之範圍內使用。而且,亦可依據需要進行交 織處理。 上述複合纖維爲具有潛在捲縮性能,如後述,在接受 -86- 201009148 染色加工等熱處理時展現潛在捲縮性能。因此吸濕 於聚醯胺成分膨潤、伸長,且聚酯成分幾乎不引起 . 化,因此捲縮率提高(捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變短 一方面,由於乾燥時聚醯胺成分收縮,聚酯成分幾 . 生長度之變化,因此捲縮率降低(捲縮纖維A之外 變長)。 上述之捲縮纖維A在吸濕時由於捲縮率容易提 φ 此以無撚絲或進行3 OOT/m以下撚絲之弱撚絲較佳 ,以無撚絲較佳。如強撚絲般,若賦予強撚絲,吸 捲縮率不易提高而不佳。又,即使以使交織數成爲 個/m左右之方式進行經緯交錯空氣加工及/或施以 撚捲縮加工亦無妨。 另一方面,非捲縮或吸濕時捲縮率無變化之具 之纖維B只要是非捲縮纖維或吸濕時捲縮率無變化 捲縮之纖維則無特別限制。此處所謂「吸濕時之捲 Φ 變化」爲吸濕時捲縮率HC與乾燥時捲縮率DC之差 DC)未達〇.5 %者。 ' 該等纖維B若爲聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯、聚對苯 三亞甲酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二酯等聚酯、尼龍6、f 等聚醯胺、聚乙烯、聚丙烯等聚烯烴、丙烯酸、對 型芳醯胺 '及該等之經改質合成纖維、天然纖維、 維、半合成纖維、聚胺基甲酸酯系彈性絲、聚醚酯 絲等適合衣料之纖維則可自由的選擇。其中,就吸 尺寸安定性、或與上述捲縮纖維A之相容性(混纖 時,由 長度變 )。另 乎不產 觀長度 高,因 。尤其 濕時之 20-60 一般假 有捲縮 之具有 縮率無 ^ ( HC- 二甲酸 g龍66 型或間 再生纖 系彈性 濕時之 性、交 -87- 201009148 編·交織性、染色性)方面而言,以由聚對苯二甲酸乙二 酯、聚對苯二甲酸丙二酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二酯,或於該 等中共聚合上述共聚合成分而成之經改質聚酯組成之聚酯 纖維較佳。又,該纖維B之單絲纖度、單絲數(纖絲數) 並無特別限制,但就提高布料之吸水性、展現吸濕時之凹 凸性能而W ’以單絲纖度爲0,l〜5dtex (更好〇.5~2dtex) ,單絲數20〜200條(更好30〜100條)之範圍內較佳。尤 其,交織數20〜60個/米左右之經緯交錯空氣加工及/或進 行一般假撚捲縮加工亦無妨。 本發明之布料含有上述吸濕時之捲縮率獲得提升之捲 縮纖維A與非捲縮或吸濕時捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之纖 維B。 布料之構造,其織編組織、層數並無特別限制。例如 ,較佳例示爲平織、綾織、緞織等織組織,或平針組織、 雙羅紋、圓形羅紋、集圈網眼、添紗編織、經平組織、半 畦編等之編組織,但不限於該等者。層數可爲單層,亦可 爲兩層以上之多層。 其中,較佳之實施樣態(1 )係如圖12及圖13中所 示,布料具有含上述捲縮纖維A之部分(Y部分)與僅以 上述纖維B構成之部分(Z部分),且上述Y部分成爲於 經方向及/或緯方向連續。此時,針對Y部分成爲於經方 向及/或緯方向連續之圖形並無特別限制,但例示爲例如 邊紋圖形、條紋圖形、格子圖形、圖13中模式的顯示之 菱形花紋圖形、石板’格花紋圖形等。 201009148 上述z部分與y部分之面積比並無特別限制,但就布 料尺寸安定性之觀點而言(Ζ部分:Υ部分)以在10: • 9 0〜9 0:10(更好爲20: 8 0〜80: 20)之範圍較佳。 上述Y部分之間在布料中係藉由Z部分阻斷。此時, . Y部分1處面積並無特別限制,但以在0.01-4.0cm2 (更 好0.1〜1.0 cm2)之範圍內較佳。另一方面,Z部分之線寬 以在0.5〜100 mm之範圍內較佳。 φ 該構造係如圖12所示般,乾燥時含有捲縮纖維A之 部分(Y部分)成爲凸部,吸濕時由於僅捲縮纖維A之長 度變短,因此該凸部消除而變平整。 接著,較佳之實施樣態(2 )係如圖10及圖1 1中所 示,布料係由兩層構成之布料,第一層含有上述捲縮纖維 A,且第二層僅以纖維B構成,且第一層與第二層係部分 連結。 該構造中,厚度方向之剖面係如圖10所示,一層(Z φ 層)僅以纖維B構成,另一層則僅以捲縮纖維A構成,Z ' 層與Y層部分連結。自Y層側観察之布料表面係如圖11 ‘ 所示,Y層與Z層以格子狀連結,乾燥時成爲該格子以外 未連接之Y層四個角部分凸起之狀態。四個角部分因吸濕 而收縮之結果,使凸部消失,使布料整體呈現平整且厚度 減少。 本發明之布料可以例如下述之製造方法輕易製得。 首先,亦即將上述聚醯胺成分與聚酯成分複合紡絲成 並列型。此時,例如可如特開2000-1445 18號公報中所記 -89- 201009148 載,使用將高黏度成分側與低黏度成分側之吐出孔分離, 且使高黏度側之吐出線速度較小(吐出面積增大)之紡絲 模嘴,藉由使熔融聚酯通過高黏度側吐出孔及使熔融聚醯 胺通過低黏度側吐出孔側並接合,且經冷卻固化之方法獲 得紡絲條。又本發明中,藉由適當設計此時之紡絲模嘴, . 作爲並列型中空複合纖維亦可。紡絲所得之絲條除在暫且 捲取後將其延伸且進而視需要進行熱處理之所謂分別延伸 方式以外,亦可採用暫且不捲取未延伸絲下延伸且進而視 @ 需要進行熱處理之所謂直接延伸方式中之方法。上述紡絲 中紡絲速度可採用例如通常採用之1 000〜3 5 0 0m/分鐘左右 之紡絲速度者。又,延伸、熱處理係設定在延伸後之切斷 伸長度爲1〇~60%,通常爲20〜45%左右之條件下,因捲縮 之表現、製編織性等而言爲較佳。 接著,可同時使用上述複合纖維與非捲縮或吸濕時捲 縮率無變化之纖維B織編成布料後,施以染色加工,藉由 染色加工時之熱使上述複合纖維展現潛在捲縮(稱爲捲縮 〇 纖維A)。 ' 其中,上述纖維B以使用沸水收縮率20%以上(較好 ' 2 5~80 % )之聚酯系纖維較佳。藉由使用該等高熱收縮纖 維作爲纖維B,由於經由染色加工時之熱使該纖維B比上 述複合纖維(捲縮纖維A)之收縮更大,因此乾燥時,如 圖10或圖12中所示,含有捲縮纖維A之部分成爲凸部。 該等高熱收縮纖維爲將例如除通常之二羧酸成分及烷二醇 成分以外,又使選自由鄰苯二甲酸、萘二羧酸、己二酸、 -90- 201009148 癸二酸等二羧酸類’二乙二醇、聚乙二醇等二醇類,雙酚 A及雙酚砸等組成之群組之一種以上作爲第三成分所共聚 • 合之共聚合聚酯供給至一般紡絲步驟中,獲得未延伸之纖 絲條’該等纖絲條未進行延伸,直接以3 5 0 0m/分鐘左右 . 之捲取速度捲取’使該未延伸之纖絲條在60〜80 °C之溫度 下以1.3〜1·5倍之延伸倍率稍許延伸。其中,酸成分係以 莫耳比(對苯二甲酸/間苯二甲酸)爲95/5〜75/25之對苯 φ 二甲酸及間苯二甲酸組成,二醇成分係由乙二醇或四亞甲 基一醇組成之共聚合聚酯(亦即,共聚合有間苯二甲酸之 聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯’或共聚合有間苯二甲酸之聚對苯二 甲酸丁二酯)經紡絲·延伸而成之纖維較佳。 另外’織編成布料時,織編組織並無特別限制,可適 當選定上述者。 上述染色加工之溫度爲100〜140°c (更好爲110〜135 °C ),時間以最高溫度之保持時間在5〜40分鐘之範圍內 • 較佳。在該等條件下,藉由對布料施以染色加工,上述複 合纖維可藉由聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分之熱收縮差而展現捲 縮。 施以染色加工之布料通常係實施乾熱最終定型。此時 ,乾熱最終定型之溫度以120~200°C (更好爲140~180°C ),時間以1~3分鐘之範圍內較佳。但,當乾熱最終定型 之溫度低於12(TC時,容易殘留染色加工時產生之摺痕, 又,會有完工製品之尺寸安定性不良之問題。相反地,當 乾熱最終定型之溫度高於200 °C時,染色加工時展現之複 201009148 合纖維捲縮降低,有使纖維硬化且原布料質地變硬之情況 0 如此般獲得之布料中,布料因出汗或下雨而吸濕時, 由於捲縮纖維A本身之捲縮量增大使外觀長度變短,使布 料之厚度減少。 另外,如此般獲得之布料中,布料中所含捲縮纖維A 同時滿足下列(1) ~(3)之要件時,容易使布料於吸濕 時之厚度減少而較佳。而且,具有該等特性之捲縮纖維A 可藉由上述之製造方法製造。 (1) 乾燥時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率DC在5 0〜80%之範 圍內。 (2) 吸濕時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC在60~90%之範 圍內。 (3) 上述捲縮率HC與捲縮率DC之差(HC-DC)爲 0.5%以上。 其中,所謂乾燥時,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度 65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態,另一方面,所謂吸濕時 ,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH之環境下24小 時後之狀態。 另外,本發明之布料亦可附加使用慣用方法之吸水加 工、潑水加工、起毛加工、紫外線遮蔽或抗菌劑、消臭劑 、防蟲劑、蓄光劑、逆反射劑、負離子發生劑等賦予機能 之各種加工。 接著,本發明之纖維製品爲使用上述布料構成之選自 -92- 201009148 由外衣用衣料、運動用衣料及內襯用衣料組成之群組之纖 維製品。該纖維製品由於使用上述之布料,因此可減少吸 . 濕時之厚度故於出汗時可抑制暑熱感。 以下,就上述45~57相關之本發明實施形態加以詳細 . 說明。 本發明之布料必須以濕潤時捲縮率獲得提高之捲縮纖 維A (以下有時簡稱爲「捲縮纖維A」或「纖維A」)及 φ 未捲縮或濕潤時之捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之纖維B(以 下’有時簡稱爲「纖維B」)構成。藉由該構成,該布料 在因出汗而吸濕或濕潤時,由於上述複合纖維之捲縮量增 加(纖維之外觀長度降低)使布料之尺寸(面積)變小, 結果’提高由該布料組成之衣著對穿著者之身體之服貼性 。此時’重要的是由該布料乾燥時之面積(SD)與吸濕時 之面積(SW)以下式計算出之面積變化率爲1%以上(較 好爲3%以上,更好爲3〜15 %)。 面積變化率(%) = ( (SD-SW) /SD) χΙΟΟ 其中’所謂乾燥時之面積係將布料置於溫度20°C、濕 度65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料面積,另一方 面,所謂吸濕時之面積係將布料置於溫度20 °C、濕度 90%RH環境下24小時後之狀態下之布料面積。 上述之面積變化率未達1 %會有出汗時服貼性無法提 升之情況而較不佳。 -93- 201009148 另外,本發明中所謂「吸濕時之捲縮率獲得提高」爲 濕潤時之捲縮率HC與乾燥時之捲縮率DC之差(HC-DC )在0.5 %以上者。其中,所謂乾燥時係將布料置於溫度 20°C、濕度65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態,另一方面, 所謂吸濕時係將布料置於溫度20°C、濕度90%RH環境下 - 24小時後之狀態。 .Thickness change rate (%) = ((TD-TW) / TD) xlOO where the thickness during drying is the thickness of the cloth after the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, the thickness at the time of moisture absorption is the thickness of the cloth in a state where the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours. Further, the thickness is the distance φ from the highest portion to the lowest portion of the cloth shown in Fig. 12. In addition, the thickness can be measured using an ultra-high precision laser displacement gauge (Model LC-2400 manufactured by KEYENCE Corporation). In addition, in the present invention, "the increase in the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption" is 0.5% or more in the difference between the crimp ratio HC at the time of wetting and the crimp ratio DC at the time of drying (HC-DC). In the case of drying, the cloth is placed in a state of temperature 2 〇 ° C, humidity 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, when the moisture is absorbed, the cloth is placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH. The state after 24 hours in the environment. In the present invention, the crimped fiber A is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber having a high crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption, but a composite fiber obtained by joining a polyester component and a polyamide component into a side-by-side type. It is preferred that the crimped fiber having a crimped configuration exhibiting a potential crimping property. In the above, the polyamine component is a polymer having a guanamine bond in the main chain, and examples thereof include, for example, nylon 4, nylon 6, nylon 12, nylon 46, and nylon 66. In particular, it is preferable that Nie. Dragon 6 and Nylon 66 are preferable from the viewpoints of cost, versatility, and yarn-making property. Further, the polyamine components may be copolymerized with a conventional component, or may contain a pigment such as oxidized titanium or carbon black, a conventional antioxidant, an antistatic agent, or the like. Light stabilizer, etc. On the other hand, the above polyester component preferably comprises 60 to 99.5 mol% of the ethylene terephthalate unit in the repeating unit constituting the polyester and 0.5 to 40 mol of the ethylene isophthalate unit. % of a copolymerized polyester. Generally, the heat shrinkage of the polyester is lower than that of the polyamine, but the heat shrinkage of the polyester can be brought close to the polyamine by using the copolymerized polyester as the polyester. As a result, in the crimped and bent structure at the time of moisture absorption, the swelled polyamine component is likely to be located outside, and the polyester component is located inside, and the crimp ratio is easily increased. Among them, when the unit of ethylene terephthalate is less than 60 mol%, it is not preferable because the basic physical properties of the strong elongation of the obtained conjugate fiber cannot be sufficiently maintained. When the ethylene terephthalate unit exceeds 99.5 mol% and the isophthalic acid ethylene diester does not reach 0.5 mol%, the crimping rate of the composite fiber does not increase when it absorbs moisture (the length of the crimped filament) The thickness of the fabric is not sufficiently reduced when there is moisture absorption. When the ethylene isophthalate exceeds 40 mol%, the basic physical properties such as the strong elongation of the composite fiber cannot be maintained, and the thermal stability is also deteriorated, and the spinning is performed due to the decomposable foreign matter in the spinning step-80-201009148 The filtration pressure (charge pressure) of the wire nozzle portion is significantly increased. The polyesters may be produced by any method, for example, if polyethylene terephthalate is described, in order to directly esterify terephthalic acid with ethylene glycol, such as methyl terephthalate. The ester of terephthalic acid lower alkyl ester is directly esterified with ethylene glycol, or terephthalic acid is reacted with ethylene oxide to form a terephthalic acid glycol ester and/or its low polymer. Then, by heating the product under reduced pressure and polycondensing to a desired degree of polymerization, the polyester comprises ethylene terephthalate component and ethylene isophthalate component. The third component may be copolymerized, and the third component is preferably any of a dicarboxylic acid component or a diol component. As the dicarboxylic acid component, for example, phthalic acid, dibromoterephthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethane dicarboxylic acid, such as β-hydroxyl B can be exemplified. A difunctional aromatic dicarboxylic acid of oxybenzoic acid, such as a dicarboxylic aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as azelaic acid, adipic acid or oxalic acid, or 14-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid. Further, a part of the above diol component may be substituted by other diol components, such as, for example, cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, neopentyl alcohol, bisphenol A, bisphenol S, 2 , 2-bis(4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane, bis(4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)anthracene, 2,2-bis(3,5-dibromo-4-( 2 - an alicyclic, alicyclic or aromatic diol of ethoxypropyl)phenyl). Further, in the above polyester, a small amount of the other polymer may be blended as needed, and a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane or trimellitic acid may be used in a small amount. In addition, the polyester of the present invention is of course also added with a pigment such as titanium oxide or carbon black in the same manner as a general polyester, and is known as an antioxidant-81-201009148 agent and an anti-tarnishing agent. The polyester component preferably contains a polyether ester decylamine. When the polyester component contains a polyether ester decylamine, the polyester component becomes soft, and when moisture absorbing, the polyester component is easily followed when the polyamine component is swollen, and the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption is apt to increase. Preferably. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably added to the polyester component in an amount of 5 to 55% by weight based on the weight of the polyester component. If it is less than 5% by weight, the crimping rate of the composite fiber is not increased when the composite fiber absorbs moisture (the length of the crimped fiber is difficult to be shortened), and the thickness of the fabric when moisture is absorbed may not be sufficiently reduced. @ In addition, when it exceeds 55% by weight, there is a case where the spinning cannot be stabilized. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably an ethylene oxide adduct of a bisphenol having a number average molecular weight of 500 to 5,000 having a carboxyl group at both terminals (a) and a bisphenol having a number average molecular weight of 1,600 to 3,000 ( b) derived. "Derivative" means the one obtained by reacting two components, or the one obtained by copolymerization. The polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals is preferably composed of a polyamine moiety and a molecular weight modifier. The polyamine moiety is composed of at least one of (1) an indoleamine ring-opening polymer, (2) a polycondensate of an aminocarboxylic acid, or (3) a polycondensate of a bismuth dicarboxylate and a diamine. In the composition, the indoleamine of (1) ' is exemplified by butane decylamine, valeroinamine, caprolactam, heptane oxime, dodecane decylamine, undecyl decylamine. Wait. The aminocarboxylic acid of (2) is exemplified by ω-aminohexanoic acid 'ω-amino heptanoic acid, ω-aminooctanoic acid, ω·amino decanoic acid, 11-aminoundecanoic acid, 12-amino group Dodecanoic acid, etc. The (3) bis-carboxylic acid is exemplified by adipic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, isophthalic acid and the like. Further, the diamine of (3) is exemplified by tetramethylene diamine, pentamethylene diamine, hexamethylene diamine, heptamethylene diamine, VIII-82 - 201009148 methyl diamine, ten ya Methyl diamine and the like. The above-mentioned indoleamine, aminocarboxylic acid 'dicarboxylic acid, and diamine are generally referred to as a polyamine moiety-forming monomer." The above-mentioned polyamine derivative having a carboxyl group at both terminals has a partial formability. The monomer can also be used in two or more forms. The preferred ones are caprolactam, 12-aminododecanoic acid and adipic acid-hexamethylenediamine, the most preferred being caprolactam. The polyamidamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is further used as a molecular weight modifier using a dicarboxylic acid component having a carbon number of φ 4 to 20, and the polyformamide moiety is formed by a conventional method in the presence of the above. The monomers are obtained by ring opening polymerization or polycondensation. Examples of the dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 20 carbon atoms are succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, or dodecanedioic acid. An aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; an aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, phthalic acid or naphthalene dicarboxylic acid; 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid or dicyclohexyl-4 An aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as a 4-dicarboxylic acid; or a sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate or a potassium 5-sulfoisophthalate; 5. sulfo- benzene: an alkali metal formate or the like. Among these, preferred are aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, • aromatic dicarboxylic acids, and alkali metal salts of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid. Better for yourself • Acid, terephthalic acid, sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate. When the polyamidene moiety forming monomer is subjected to ring-opening polymerization or polycondensation by a conventional method, the average degree of polymerization is preferably from 2 to 10, and the average degree of polymerization is from 3 to 8. As a result, the polyamine moiety has a number average molecular weight of from 100 to 1,000, more preferably from 300 to 700. Further, the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends thereof is a component of the polyamine moiety-83-201009148 at both ends of the dicarboxylic acid component having a carbon number of 4 to 20 of the molecular weight modifier. The component of the polyamine moiety may also be a mixture of a component that imparts a polyamine moiety at both ends and a component that imparts a polyamine moiety to the single terminal. In the case of a mixture, the component which gives the polyamine moiety to the single molar terminal is preferably a component having a polyamine moiety at both ends which is 1 to 1 Torr. More preferably, it is a component imparted to a single end of 1 mole, and the components imparted at both ends are 3 to 8 moles. Therefore, the amount of the carboxyl group-containing component of the above polyamine moiety-forming monomer can be appropriately adjusted so as to have a carboxyl group at both terminals. If only indoleamine and/or aminocarboxylic acid is used as the para-indenic acid moiety-forming monomer, since the molecular weight modifier is a dicarboxylic acid component, a polyamine amine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be easily produced ( a). When a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine is used as a polyamidene moiety-forming monomer, for example, a polyalkylamine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be produced by a method such as a reaction for finally changing a dicarboxylic acid of a polymer (a). . The number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is usually from 500 to 5,000, preferably from 500 to 3,000. When the number average molecular weight is less than 500, the heat resistance of the polyether ester decylamine itself is lowered. On the other hand, when 〇 exceeds 5,000, the reactivity is lowered, so that the polyether ester decylamine takes a longer time to manufacture. In order to make the number average molecular weight fall within the range, a dicarboxylic acid component having a carbon number of 4 to 20 may be selected as the molecular weight modifier, and the reaction conditions may be appropriately set in the polymerization of the polyamine moiety. Further, among the bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adducts (b), the bisphenols are exemplified by bisphenol A (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2·propane) and bisphenol F (4). 4'-dihydroxydiphenylmethane), bisphenol S (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl) and 4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-butane. The preferred of these is bis-84-201009148 phenol A. The bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adduct (b) is obtained by a method of adding ethylene oxide to the bisphenols. In addition, ethylene oxide and other alkylene oxides (propylene oxide, 1,2-epoxybutylene, 1,4-butylene oxide, etc.) may be used, but other alkylene oxides are used in all amounts. The weight of the ethylene oxide is normal, and is usually 10% by weight or less. Further, the adduct (b) corresponds to two hydroxyl groups of a bisphenol, and the polymerization φ has an average of 20 to 70 mole of ethylene oxide and another alkylene oxide (hereinafter referred to as ethylene oxide). The situation is better. More preferably, the polymerization has a condition of 3 2 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide or the like. That is, an hydroxy group (addition) corresponding to bisphenol has an adduct of 10 to 35 moles, preferably 16 to 30 moles, more preferably 16 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide. The number average molecular weight of the above adduct (b) is usually from 1,600 to 3,000, and particularly preferably from 32 to 60 by using an ethylene oxide addition molar number. If the average molecular weight is less than 1,600, the antistatic property is insufficient. On the other hand, when Φ exceeds 3, the reactivity of the polyether ester decylamine takes a long time due to a decrease in reactivity. The number average molecular weight is preferably from 1,800 to 2,400, and the addition molar number of the epoxy * ethane or the like is more preferably from 32 to 40. The number average molecular weight is within this range. The molecular weight of the bisphenol can be considered by adjusting the molar number of addition of ethylene oxide or the like. The above-mentioned adduct (b) is used in the range of 20 to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b) in the polyether ester amine. If the amount of the adduct (b) is less than 20% by weight, the antistatic property of the polyether ester decylamine is deteriorated. On the other hand, when it exceeds 80% by weight, the polyether ester decylamine is resistant to -85- 201009148 The heat is not good enough. More preferably, the adduct (b) is used in the range of 40 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b). The relative viscosity of the polyether ester guanamine used in the present invention is 1.5 to 3.5 (0.5% by weight, m-cresol solution, 25 ° C), preferably 2.0 to 3.0. If it is less than 1.5, since the difference in melt viscosity between the base polymer component (polyamide component and polyester component) during kneading is large, it tends to stay in the inside of the catheter or in the spinning unit, and spinning for a long time is likely to cause discharge. Abnormality makes the quality of the obtained composite fiber unstable. On the other hand, if it exceeds the range of 3.5, it will be the cause of the broken yarn when the yarn is twisted. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably added to the polyamine component in an amount of 0% by weight. When added in a small amount, the hygroscopic elongation of the polyamide component is lowered, and the function of shrinking the moisture at the time of moisture absorption which is the object of the present invention and shrinking the length of the appearance yarn is impaired. The side-by-side type composite fiber may have any fineness, cross-sectional shape, or composite form, and the single-filament fineness is preferably about 1.5 to 5.0 dtex. Further, when the conjugate fiber of the present invention is made into a hollow conjugate fiber, the sensitivity to humidity is increased and the bulkiness is also increased. Further, the area ratio of the cross-section of the composite fiber of the polyamide component and the polyester component is preferably in the range of the polyamine component/polyester component 1 = 30/70 to 70/30, more preferably 40/60. The range of 60/40. When the conjugate fiber is a multifilament of a plurality of filaments, the total fineness of the multifilament is not particularly limited, but it can be used in the range of 40 to 200 dtex as a material for general clothing. Moreover, the interlacing process can also be performed as needed. The above composite fiber has a potential crimping property, and as described later, exhibits a potential crimping property upon heat treatment such as dyeing processing of -86-201009148. Therefore, the moisture absorption of the polyamide component swells and elongates, and the polyester component hardly causes the formation, so that the crimp ratio is increased (the length of the appearance of the crimped fiber A is shortened, on the one hand, the polyamine component shrinks during drying, and the polycondensation The ester component has a slight change in the degree of growth, so that the crimp ratio is lowered (the length of the crimped fiber A becomes longer). The above-mentioned crimped fiber A is easy to pick up due to the crimping rate when moisture is absorbed. The weak silk of the silk below OOT/m is better, and it is better to have no silk. For example, if strong silk is applied, if the strong twist is given, the suction shrinkage rate is not easily improved, and even if the number of interlacing is It is also possible to carry out the warp and weft interlacing air processing and/or the crimping process in a manner of about /m. On the other hand, the fiber B having no change in the crimping rate during non-coiling or moisture absorption is not a non-crimped fiber or There is no particular limitation on the fiber which has no change in the crimp ratio during moisture absorption. Here, the "change in the roll Φ during moisture absorption" is the difference between the crimp ratio HC at the time of moisture absorption and the DC ratio at the time of drying DC) 〇. 5 %. 'The fiber B is polyethylene terephthalate, polyparaphenylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate and other polyesters, nylon 6, f and other polyamines, polyethylene, polypropylene, etc. Fibers suitable for clothing such as polyolefin, acrylic acid, p-phthalamide, and such modified synthetic fibers, natural fibers, vitamins, semi-synthetic fibers, polyurethane elastic yarns, polyether ester yarns, etc. Free to choose. Among them, the dimensional stability or the compatibility with the above-mentioned crimped fiber A (when the fiber is mixed, the length is changed). The length of the production is not high, because of the length. Especially in the case of wet 20-60, there is a shrinkage of the shrinkage rate. (HC-dicarboxylic acid g-66 or inter-regenerated fiber elastic wetness, cross-87-201009148 ed. interlacing, dyeability In terms of polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or the copolymerization of the above copolymerized components Polyester fibers composed of polyester are preferred. Further, the single yarn fineness and the number of filaments (the number of filaments) of the fiber B are not particularly limited, but the water absorption property of the fabric is improved, and the unevenness property at the time of moisture absorption is exhibited, and the single yarn fineness is 0, l~ 5dtex (better 〇5~2dtex), preferably 20 to 200 filaments (more preferably 30 to 100). In particular, it is possible to interlace air processing with a warp and weft of about 20 to 60/m or so and to perform general false twist crimping. The fabric of the present invention contains the crimped fiber A having an improved crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption and the crimped fiber B having no change in the crimp ratio at the time of non-crimping or moisture absorption. The structure of the fabric, the weaving organization and the number of layers are not particularly limited. For example, it is preferably woven as a plain weave, a woven weave, a satin weave, or a jersey structure, a double rib, a circular rib, a tuck mesh, a woven weave, a warp weave, a semi-twist, etc., but not Limited to those who are. The number of layers may be a single layer or a multilayer of two or more layers. In the preferred embodiment (1), as shown in FIG. 12 and FIG. 13, the cloth has a portion (Y portion) including the crimped fiber A and a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B, and The above Y portion is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. In this case, the pattern in which the Y portion is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction is not particularly limited, but is exemplified by, for example, a fringe pattern, a stripe pattern, a grid pattern, a diamond pattern of the pattern in FIG. 13, and a slate ' Checkered patterns, etc. 201009148 There is no particular limitation on the area ratio of the z part to the y part, but in terms of the dimensional stability of the cloth (Ζ part: Υ part), it is 10: • 9 0~9 0:10 (better 20: The range of 8 0 to 80: 20) is better. The above Y portions are blocked by the Z portion in the cloth. At this time, the area of the Y portion 1 is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 4.0 cm 2 (more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 cm 2 ). On the other hand, the line width of the Z portion is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 100 mm. φ This structure is as shown in Fig. 12, and the portion (Y portion) containing the crimped fiber A during drying is a convex portion, and since the length of the crimped fiber A is shortened during moisture absorption, the convex portion is eliminated and flattened. . Next, in a preferred embodiment (2), as shown in FIG. 10 and FIG. 1, the cloth is composed of two layers, the first layer contains the crimped fibers A, and the second layer is composed only of fibers B. And the first layer is joined to the second layer portion. In this structure, the cross section in the thickness direction is as shown in Fig. 10. One layer (Z φ layer) is composed only of fibers B, and the other layer is composed only of crimped fibers A, and the Z ' layer is joined to the Y layer portion. The surface of the fabric observed from the side of the Y layer is as shown in Fig. 11 ', and the Y layer and the Z layer are connected in a lattice shape, and when dried, the four corner portions of the unconnected Y layer are raised. As a result of the shrinkage of the four corner portions due to moisture absorption, the convex portions disappear, and the entire fabric is flat and the thickness is reduced. The cloth of the present invention can be easily produced, for example, by the following production method. First, the polyamine component and the polyester component are conjugated into a side-by-side type. In this case, for example, the high-viscosity component side and the low-viscosity component side discharge hole are separated, and the high-viscosity side discharge line speed is small, as described in JP-A-2000-144518-89-201009148. (Spinning area is increased), the spinning nozzle is obtained by passing the molten polyester through the high-viscosity side discharge hole and passing the molten polyamine to the low-viscosity side discharge hole side and joining, and obtaining the spun by cooling and solidifying . Further, in the present invention, it is also possible to design the spinning die at this time as a parallel type hollow composite fiber. In addition to the so-called separate extension method of stretching and then heat-treating as needed, the yarn obtained by spinning may also be used as a so-called direct extension without unwinding the unstretched filament and then requiring heat treatment. The method in the extension mode. The spinning speed in the above spinning can be, for example, a spinning speed of about 1,000 to 3,500 m/min which is usually employed. Further, the elongation and the heat treatment are preferably set so that the elongation at break after stretching is from 1 〇 to 60%, and usually from about 20 to 45%, depending on the expression of the crimp, the braidability, and the like. Then, the above-mentioned composite fiber can be simultaneously woven into a fabric with non-crimped or moisture-reducing fiber B, and then dyed, and the composite fiber exhibits potential crimping by heat during dyeing processing ( Known as the crimped fiber A). The fiber B is preferably a polyester fiber having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 20% or more (preferably, 2 to 5 to 80%). By using the high heat shrinkable fiber as the fiber B, since the fiber B is more contracted than the above composite fiber (the crimped fiber A) by the heat during the dyeing process, when drying, as shown in FIG. 10 or FIG. It is shown that the portion containing the crimped fiber A becomes a convex portion. The high heat shrinkable fiber is selected from, for example, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of phthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, and -90-201009148 sebacic acid in addition to the usual dicarboxylic acid component and the alkanediol component. A glycol such as diethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol, or a copolymer of one or more of a group consisting of bisphenol A and bisphenol oxime, which is copolymerized as a third component, is supplied to a general spinning step. In the middle, the unstretched filament strips are obtained, and the filament strips are not stretched, and are directly taken up at a take-up speed of about 3500 m/min. 'The unstretched filament strips are at 60 to 80 ° C. The temperature is slightly extended at a stretching ratio of 1.3 to 1.5 times. Wherein, the acid component is composed of a molar ratio (terephthalic acid/isophthalic acid) of 95/5 to 75/25 of p-benzene φ dicarboxylic acid and isophthalic acid, and the diol component is ethylene glycol or a copolymerized polyester composed of tetramethylene monool (that is, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with isophthalic acid) or polybutylene terephthalate copolymerized with isophthalic acid The fiber which is spun and extended is preferred. In addition, when weaving into a fabric, the weaving organization is not particularly limited, and the above may be appropriately selected. The dyeing process has a temperature of 100 to 140 ° C (more preferably 110 to 135 ° C), and the time is maintained at a maximum temperature in the range of 5 to 40 minutes. Under these conditions, by subjecting the fabric to a dyeing process, the composite fiber can exhibit shrinkage by the difference in heat shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide component. The fabric to be dyed is usually subjected to dry heat final setting. At this time, the final setting temperature of the dry heat is 120 to 200 ° C (more preferably 140 to 180 ° C), and the time is preferably in the range of 1 to 3 minutes. However, when the temperature at which the dry heat is finalized is lower than 12 (TC, it is easy to leave the crease generated during the dyeing process, and there is a problem that the dimensional stability of the finished product is poor. Conversely, when the dry heat is finalized, the temperature is finalized. When the temperature is higher than 200 °C, the 201009148 fiber shrinkage is reduced during the dyeing process, and the fiber is hardened and the texture of the original fabric is hardened. 0 In the cloth thus obtained, the cloth absorbs moisture due to sweating or rain. In the case of the fabric thus obtained, the crimped fiber A contained in the fabric satisfies the following (1) ~ (at the same time), since the crimping amount of the crimped fiber A itself is increased to shorten the appearance length. In the case of 3), it is easy to reduce the thickness of the cloth during moisture absorption, and the crimped fiber A having such characteristics can be produced by the above-described production method. (1) The crimped fiber A is dried. The crimping ratio DC is in the range of 50 to 80%. (2) The crimping rate HC of the crimped fiber A during moisture absorption is in the range of 60 to 90%. (3) The above-mentioned crimping ratio HC and crimp ratio The difference in DC (HC-DC) is 0.5% or more. Among them, when drying, the sample is placed. In the state of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, on the other hand, in the case of moisture absorption, the sample was placed in an environment of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours. In addition, the fabric of the present invention may be additionally provided with a water absorption process, a water splashing process, a raising process, an ultraviolet shielding or an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, an insect repellent, a light storing agent, a retroreflector, an anion generating agent, etc., by a conventional method. Next, the fiber product of the present invention is a fiber product comprising the above-mentioned cloth, which is selected from the group consisting of a clothing for outerwear, a clothing for sportswear, and a clothing for lining. Since the fabric can reduce the thickness of the wet film, it can suppress the heat sensation when sweating. Hereinafter, the embodiment of the present invention relating to 45 to 57 above will be described in detail. The fabric of the present invention must have a crimp ratio at the time of wetting. Obtained crimped fiber A (hereinafter sometimes referred to simply as "crimped fiber A" or "fiber A") and φ crimped fiber B having no change in crimp ratio when not crimped or wetted ( In the following description, the fabric is sometimes referred to as "fiber B". In this configuration, when the fabric absorbs moisture or wets due to sweating, the amount of curl of the conjugate fiber is increased (the length of the fiber is lowered). The size (area) becomes smaller, and the result 'improves the conformity of the clothing composed of the cloth to the wearer's body. At this time, the important area is the area (SD) when the cloth is dried and the area when the moisture is absorbed (SW). The area change rate calculated by the following formula is 1% or more (preferably 3% or more, more preferably 3 to 15%). Area change rate (%) = ((SD-SW) / SD) χΙΟΟ where 'so-called The area when drying is the cloth area in a state where the cloth is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, the area at the time of moisture absorption is to place the cloth at a temperature of 20 ° C, The area of the cloth in a state of humidity of 90% RH after 24 hours. If the above-mentioned area change rate is less than 1%, there is a case where the applicability cannot be improved when sweating, and it is not preferable. Further, in the present invention, "the increase in the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption" is such that the difference between the crimp ratio HC at the time of wetting and the crimp ratio DC at the time of drying (HC-DC) is 0.5% or more. In the case of drying, the cloth is placed in a state of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, when the moisture is absorbed, the cloth is placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH. Next - status after 24 hours. .
本發明中,捲縮纖維A只要是吸濕時捲縮率獲得提高 之纖維則無特別限制,但以將聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分接合 G 成並列型而成之複合纖維,且展現潛在捲縮性能之具有捲 縮構造之捲縮纖維較佳。 其中,上述聚醯胺成分爲主鏈中具有醯胺鍵之聚合物 ,舉例爲例如尼龍4、尼龍6、尼龍12、尼龍46、尼龍66 等。尤其是就成本面、廣用性、製絲性等觀點而言,以尼 龍6、尼龍66較佳。而且,該等聚醯胺成分亦可共聚合以 基劑而習知之成分,或者亦可在該等聚醯胺成分中含有氧 化鈦或碳黑等顏料、習知抗氧化劑、抗靜電劑、耐光劑等 © 〇 另一方面,上述聚酯成分較好係由構成聚酯之重複單 位中對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有60~99.5莫耳%,及間苯 二甲酸乙二酯單位佔有〇_5~40莫耳%之共聚合聚酯所構成 。通常,聚酯之熱收縮率比聚醯胺低,但可藉由採用該等 共聚合聚酯作爲聚酯而使聚酯之熱收縮率接近聚醯胺。其 結果,吸濕時之捲縮彎曲構造中,易成爲經膨潤之聚醯胺 成分位在外側,聚酯成分位在內側之構造,使捲縮率易於 -94- 201009148 增大。其中,當對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位未達60莫耳%時, 由於無法充分保持所得複合纖維之強伸長度之基本物性而 . 不佳。當對苯二甲酸乙二酯單位超過99.5莫耳%,間苯二 甲酸乙二酯未達0.5莫耳%時,複合纖維吸濕時捲縮率不 太增大(捲縮絲之外觀長度不變短)’而有布料難以展現 足夠之尺吋變化之情況。當間苯二甲酸乙二酯超過40莫 耳%時,無法保持複合纖維之強伸長度等之基本物性,又 φ 熱安定性亦劣化,於製絲步驟中由於分解性異物而有紡絲 模嘴部分之過濾壓(充塡壓力)顯著上升之情況。 該等聚酯可爲以任意方法製造者,例如若對聚對苯二 甲酸乙二酯加以說明,爲使對苯二甲酸與乙二醇直接酯化 反應,使如對苯二甲酸二甲酯之對苯二甲酸低級烷酯與乙 二醇直接酯化反應,或使對苯二甲酸與環氧乙烷反應等, 生成對苯二甲酸之二醇酯及/或其低聚合物。接著藉由使 該生成物在減壓下加熱且聚縮合反應至所需聚合度而製造 ' 再者,該聚酯除構成聚酯之對苯二甲酸乙二酯成分及 * 間苯二甲酸乙二酯成分以外,亦可共聚合第三種成分,該 第三種成分較好爲二羧酸成分或二醇成分之任一種。至於 該等二羧酸成分可舉例爲例如鄰苯二甲酸、二溴對苯二甲 酸、萘二羧酸、二苯基二羧酸、二苯氧基乙烷二羧酸、如 β-羥基乙氧基苯甲酸之二官能性芳香族二羧酸、如癸二酸 、己二酸、草酸之二官能性脂肪族二羧酸、1,4-環己烷二 羧酸等。又亦可以其他二醇成分取代上述二醇成分之一部 -95- 201009148 分,該等二醇成分舉例爲例如如環己烷-1,4-二甲醇、新戊 二醇、雙酚A、雙酚S、2,2-雙(4-β-羥基乙氧基苯基)丙 烷、雙(4-β_羥基乙氧基苯基)碾、2,2-雙(3,5·二溴-4- . (2-羥基乙氧基)苯基)丙烷之脂肪族、脂環族、芳香族 之二醇。另外,上述聚酯中可依據需要少量摻合熔融其他 - 聚合物者,亦可爲少量地使用季戊四醇、三羥甲基丙烷、 _ 偏苯三酸等鏈分支劑者。除此之外,本發明之聚酯當然亦 與一般聚酯同樣添加二氧化鈦、碳黒等顏料,過去習知之 ϋ 抗氧化劑、抗變色劑。 該聚酯成分中較好含有聚醚酯醯胺。當聚酯成分中含 有聚醚酯醯胺時,聚酯成分變柔軟,吸濕時,在聚醯胺成 分膨潤之際使聚酯成分易於追隨,使吸濕時之捲縮率易於 增大而較佳。該聚醚酯醯胺對聚酯成分之添加量相對於聚 酯成分重量以5〜55重量%較佳。若未達5重量%,則複合 纖維吸濕時,捲縮率不太增大(捲縮纖維的外觀長度難以 變短),作爲布料時會有無法獲得足夠之尺寸變化之情況 Θ 。另外,當超過5 5重量%時’有無法穩定紡絲之情況。 該聚醚酯醯胺較好爲由兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子 ' 量500〜5,000之聚醯胺(&)與數平均分子量1,600~3,000 之雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)所衍生。「衍生」意指 使兩種成分反應獲得者,亦可表示經共聚合而得者。 兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)較好係由聚醯胺部分 與分子量調節劑構成者。該聚醢胺部分係由(1)內醯胺 開環聚合物、(2)胺基羧酸之聚縮合物,或(3)二羧酸 -96- 201009148 與二胺之聚縮合物之至少任一種所構成,該等Μ 之內醯胺舉例爲丁內醯胺、戊內醯胺、己內醯胺 . 胺、十二烷內醯胺、十一烷內醯胺等。(2)之 舉例爲ω-胺基己酸、ω-胺基庚酸、ω-胺基辛酸、 酸、11-胺基十一烷酸、12-胺基十二烷酸等。(3 酸舉例爲己二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、十一烷二酸 二酸、間苯二甲酸等。又(3 )之二胺舉例爲四 φ 胺、五亞甲基二胺、六亞甲基二胺、七亞甲基二 甲基二胺、十亞甲基二胺等。以上該等內醯胺、 、二羧酸、二胺通稱爲聚醯胺部分形成性單體。 上述作爲兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之 分形成性單體所例示者亦可兩種以上倂用。該等 爲己內醯胺、12-胺基十二烷酸及己二酸-六亞甲 最佳者爲己內醯胺。 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)係進而 φ 4〜20之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,在該等存 慣用之方法,使上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體經開 • 聚縮合獲得。碳數4〜20之二羧酸舉例爲琥珀酸 、己二酸、庚二酸、辛二酸、壬二酸、癸二酸、 酸、或十二烷二酸等脂肪酸二羧酸;對苯二甲酸 甲酸、鄰苯二甲酸、或萘二羧酸等芳香族二羧酸 己烷二羧酸、或二環己基-4,4-二羧酸等脂肪族二 5 -擴基間苯二甲酸鈉、或5 -擴基間苯二甲酸鉀等 苯二甲酸鹼金屬鹽等。該等中,較佳者爲脂肪族 、庚內醯 胺基羧酸 ω-胺基癸 )之二羧 、十二烷 亞甲基二 胺、八亞 胺基羧酸 聚醯胺部 中較佳者 基二胺, 使用碳數 在下藉由 環聚合或 、戊二酸 十一烷二 、間苯二 ;1,4-環 羧酸:或 5-磺基間 二羧酸、 -97- 201009148 芳香族二羧酸及5-磺基間苯二甲酸鹸金屬鹽。更好爲己二 酸、對苯二甲酸、5-磺基間苯二甲酸鈉。 以慣用之方法使聚醯胺部分形成性單體開環聚合或聚 縮合之際,其平均聚合度以2~ 10時較佳’更好其平均聚 合度爲3~8。其結果該聚醯胺部分之數平均分子量爲 100~1,000,更好爲 300~700。 再者上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)爲在分子量 調節劑的碳數4~20之二羧酸成分之兩末端賦予聚醯胺部 分之成分,於單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分,或亦可爲兩 末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分及單末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成 分之混合物。爲混合物時,相對於1莫耳單末端賦予聚醯 胺部分之成分,兩末端賦予聚醯胺部分之成分成爲1~10 莫耳而成之莫耳比較佳。更好爲相對於1莫耳之單末端賦 予之成分,兩末端賦予之成分爲3〜8莫耳。因此可適當的 調整上述聚醯胺部分形成性單體之具有羧基之成分之量以 使兩末端具有羧基。若僅使用內醯胺及/或胺基羧酸作爲 聚醯胺部分形成性單體,則由於分子量調節劑爲二羧酸成 分,因此可輕易地製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺胺(a) 。使用二羧酸與二胺之聚縮合物作爲聚醯胺部分形成性單 體時,例如使用於聚合物之最終改變二羧酸之反應等方法 可製造兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)。 上述兩末端具有羧基之聚醯胺(a)之數平均分子量 通常爲500~5,000,較好爲500〜3,000。數平均分子量未達 5 00時會使聚醚酯醯胺本身之耐熱性降低,另一方面,當 -98- 201009148 超過5,000時由於反應性降低,因此聚醚酯醯胺製造時需 要更長時間。爲了使數平均分子量落在該範圍內’可選擇 . 碳數4〜20之二羧酸成分作爲分子量調節劑,亦可在聚醯 胺部分之聚合之際適當設定反應條件。 .另外,雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)中,雙酚類舉 例爲雙酚 A ( 4,4’·二羥基二苯基-2,2-丙烷)、雙酚F( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基甲烷)、雙酚S ( 4,4’-二羥基二苯基颯 φ )及4,4’·二羥基二苯基-2,2-丁烷等。該等中較佳者爲雙 酚A。 上述雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)係依慣用之方法 ,藉由將環氧乙烷加成於該等雙酚類上而得。又,亦可倂 用環氧乙烷與其他環氧烷(環氧丙烷、1,2-環氧丁烷、 1,4-環氧丁烷等),但其他環氧烷之使用量以全部環氧乙 烷之重量爲準,通常在10重量%以下。 又上述加成物(b)對應於雙酚類之兩個羥基,聚合 • 有平均20〜70莫耳之環氧乙烷、其他環氧烷(以下稱爲環 氧乙烷等)之情況較佳。更好爲聚合有32〜6〇莫耳之環氧 ' 乙烷等之情況。亦即,對應於雙酚之一個羥基聚合(加成 )有10〜35莫耳’較好16〜30莫耳,更好16〜20莫耳之環 氧乙院等而成之加成物。 上述加成物(b)之數平均分子量通常爲ι,6〇〇〜3 〇〇〇 ’尤其是以使用環氧乙烷加成莫耳數爲3 2〜60者較佳。若 數平均分子量未達1,600,則抗靜電性不足,另—方面, 超過3,000時,由於反應性降低而使得聚醚酯醯胺製造時 -99- 201009148 需要較長時間。數平均分子量較好爲1,800〜2,400,環氧 乙烷等之加成莫耳數更好爲32〜40。使數平均分子量落在 該範圍內’可考量雙酚類之分子量,藉由調整環氧乙烷等 . 之加成莫耳數而達成。 上述加成物(b)以聚醚酯醯胺中之上述(a)與(b )之總重量爲準係在2 0〜80重量%之範圍內使用。若加成 物(b)之量未達20重量%,則聚醚酯醯胺之抗靜電性劣 化’另一方面’當超過80重量%時,由於聚醚酯醢胺之耐 _ 熱性降低而不佳。更好,加成物(b )以上述(a )與(b )之總重量爲準係在40〜70重量%之範圍內使用。 本發明中使用之聚醚酯醯胺之相對黏度爲1.5〜3.5 ( 0.5重量%,間-甲酚溶液,25°C ),較好爲2.0〜3.0。若未 達1.5’由於混練時與基底聚合物成分(聚醯胺成分及聚 酯成分)之熔融黏度差異大,故而容易滯留在導管內或紡 絲組件內,長時間實施紡絲容易引起吐出異常,使所得複 合纖維之品質不穩定。另一方面,若超過3.5之範圍,於 ❿ 製絲時將成爲斷絲原因。 * 該聚醚酯醯胺對聚醯胺成分之添加量以〇重量%最適 ~ 當。當少量添加時,聚醯胺成分之吸濕伸長性降低,而損 及本發明目的之吸濕時呈現捲縮而使外觀絲長度收縮之機 能。 上述並列型複合纖維可爲任意纖度、剖面形狀、複合 形態,作爲單絲纖度較宜爲1.5~5.0dtex左右。另外,使 本發明之複合纖維成爲中空複合纖維時對於濕度之敏感度 201009148 變大,且蓬鬆性亦變大。另外,聚醢胺成分與聚酯成分之 複合纖維之剖面之面積比,以聚醯胺成分/聚酯成分 . =30/70-70/30之範圍較佳,更好爲40/60~60/40之範圍。 使上述複合纖維成爲單絲數條之多纖絲時,該多纖絲 之總纖度並無特別限制,但作爲一般衣料用材料可在 40〜200 dtex之範圍內使用。而且,亦可依據需要進行交 織處理。 φ 上述複合纖維爲具有潛在捲縮性能,如後述,在接受 染色加工等熱處理時展現潛在捲縮性能。因此吸濕時,由 於聚醯胺成分膨潤、伸長,且聚酯成分幾乎不引起長度變 化,因此捲縮率提高(捲縮纖維A之外觀長度變短)。另 一方面,由於乾燥時聚醯胺成分收縮,聚酯成分幾乎不產 生長度之變化,因此捲縮率降低(捲縮纖維A之外觀長度 變長)。 上述之捲縮纖維A在吸濕時由於捲縮率容易提高,因 Φ 此以無撚絲或進行300T/m以下撚絲之弱撚絲較佳。尤其 ' ,以無撚絲較佳。如強撚絲般,若賦予強撚絲,吸濕時之 - 捲縮率不易提高而不佳。又,即使以使交織數成爲20〜60 個/m左右之方式進行經緯交錯空氣加工及/或施以一般假 撚捲縮加工亦無妨。 另一方面,非捲縮或吸濕時捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮 之彈性纖維B只要是非捲縮纖維或吸濕時捲縮率無變化之 具有捲縮之彈性纖維則無特別限制。藉由該彈性纖維之存 在而補足未出汗狀態下之服貼感’且可進一步提升出汗後 -101 - 201009148 之服貼性改善效果。其中,本發明所謂「吸濕時之捲縮率 無變化」爲吸濕時之捲縮率HC與乾燥時之捲縮率DC之 差(HC-DC )未達0.5%者。 該纖維B以伸長度300%以上之彈性纖維較佳。具體 而言,例示者爲聚胺基甲酸酯彈性纖維或聚酯·醚彈性纖 維等。 本發明之布料亦可含有非捲縮,或吸濕時捲縮率無變 化之具有捲縮之非彈性纖維C。該非彈性纖維C較好具有 上述捲縮纖維A與彈性纖維B所沒有之特性之纖維。例如 ,爲了實現柔軟質地,舉例爲單絲纖度1 dtex以下之多纖 絲纖維或假撚加工絲、發色性良好之多纖絲纖維或加工絲 等。具體而言爲聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯、聚對苯二甲酸三亞 甲酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二酯等聚酯、尼龍6、尼龍66等聚 醯胺、聚乙烯、聚丙烯等聚烯烴、丙烯酸、對型或間型芳 醯胺、及該等之經改質合成纖維、天然纖維、再生纖維、 半合成纖維、聚胺基甲酸酯系彈性絲、聚醚酯系彈性絲等 適合衣料之纖維則可自由的選擇。其中,就吸濕時之尺寸 安定性、或與上述捲縮纖維A之相容性(混纖性、交編· 交織性、染色性)方面而言,以由聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯、 聚對苯二甲酸丙二酯、聚對苯二甲酸丁二酯,或於該等中 共聚合上述共聚合成分而成之經改質聚酯組成之聚酯纖維 較佳。又,該纖維B之單絲纖度、單絲數(纖絲數)並無 特別限制,但就提高布料之吸水性、良好地展現吸濕時之 尺寸變化性能而言,以單絲纖度爲0.1〜5dtex (更好 -102- 201009148 0·5〜2dtex),單絲數20~200條(更好30~100條)之範圍 內較佳。尤其,以使交織數成爲20〜60個/m左右之方式 經緯交錯空氣加工及/或進行一般假撚捲縮加工亦無妨。 本發明之布料含有上述吸濕時捲縮率獲得提升之捲縮 纖維A,與非捲縮、或吸濕時捲縮率無變化之具有捲縮之 彈性纖維B。 布料之構造爲其編織組織、層數並無特別限制。例如 φ ,較佳例示爲平織、綾織、緞織等織組織,或平針組織、 雙羅紋、圓形羅紋、集圈網眼、添紗編織、經平組織、半 畦編等之編組織,但不限於該等者。層數可爲單層,亦可 爲兩層以上之多層。此時,該布料之至少一層中,構成該 層之總纖維重量中較好含有30重量%以上之上述捲縮纖維 A。另外’多層構造布料之情況下,任何一層中未含30重 量%以上之上述捲縮纖維A時,由於上述捲縮纖維A吸濕 之捲縮增加而對布料產生負拘束力,無法充分獲得本發明 φ 目的之服貼性而不佳。 ' 至於本發明之布料,舉例爲將上述捲縮纖維A與上述 - 彈性纖維B以及視情況之上述纖維C對齊配製成織組織之 經絲及/或緯絲之織物,將上述捲縮纖維A與彈性纖維B 及視需要之上述纖維C對齊形成編組織之所謂裸編物等。 又’本發明之布料中,上述捲縮纖維A與彈性纖維B 亦可使上述之捲縮纖維A位於鞘部,使彈性纖維B位於芯 部成爲芯鞘型複合絲存在於布料中。 本發明之布料中所含上述捲縮纖維A與纖維B之配置 -103- 201009148 之較佳實施樣態說明於下。 首先於實施樣態(ο中,布料具有以上述 A與上述彈性纖維B構成之部分(Y部分),及 彈性纖維C與上述彈性纖維B構成之部分(Z部 上述Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方向連續。該 吸濕時,Y部分之尺寸相較於Z部分更容易變化 ,且由於布料中Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方 因此布料吸濕時之尺寸變小。 此時,針對Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方 圖形並無特別限制,但可例示爲例如邊紋圖形、 、格子圖形、圖16中模式顯示之菱形花紋圖形 格花紋圖形等。 上述Z部分與Y部分之面積比並無特別限制 料尺寸安定性之觀點而言(Z部分:Y部分) 90〜90: 10 (更好爲20: 8 0~80: 20)之範圍較佳 上述Y部分之間在布料中係藉由Z部分阻斷 Y部分1處之面積並無特別限制,但在〇.〇1~4. 好0.1〜1.0 cm2)之範圍內,於出汗時可防止衣 黏住而較佳。另一方面,Z部分之線寬以在0.5 ~ 範圍內較佳。 以下之實施樣態(2 )中,布料具有以上述 維C與上述纖維B構成之部分(Z部分),及以 纖維A與上述非彈性纖維C及上述纖維B構成;^ 部分),且上述X部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方 捲縮纖維 以上述非 分),且 構造中, (收縮) 向連續, 向連續之 條紋圖形 、石板方 ,但就布 乂在 1〇 : 〇 。此時, 0cm2 (更 服與肌膚 1 00mm 之 非彈性纖 上述捲縮 L部分(X 向連續。 -104- 201009148 該構造中,X部分相較於z部分在吸濕時之尺寸更容易變 化,且由於布料中之X部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方向連 續,因此布料在吸濕時之尺寸變小。此時,X部分成連續 之圖形或二者之面積比宜與實施樣態(1)相同之程度。 以下實施樣態(3)中,布料具有以上述捲縮纖維a 與上述非彈性纖維C及上述纖維B構成之部分(X部分) ’與以上述捲縮纖維A及上述彈性纖維B構成之部分(Y φ 部分),該布料中上述Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方向 連續。該構造中Y部分相較於X部分在濕潤時之尺寸更 容易變化’且由於布料中之Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯 方向連續’因此吸濕時之布料尺寸變小。此時,Y部分成 爲連續之圖形或二者之面積比宜與實施樣態(1)相同之 程度。 以下之實施樣態(4)中,布料具有以上述捲縮纖維 A與上述纖維C及上述彈性纖維B構成之部分(X部分) φ 及以上述捲縮纖維A及上述彈性纖維B構成之部分(Y部 ' 分),及以上述非彈性纖維C與上述彈性纖維B構成之部 * 分(Z部分),且上述Y部分成爲於經方向及/或緯方向 連續。該構造中Y部分相較於其他部分(X部分或Z部分 )在吸濕時之尺寸更容易變化,且由於布料中之Y部分成 爲於經方向及/或緯方向連續,因此布料吸濕時之尺寸變 化小。此時,Y部分成爲連續之圖形,或Y部分與其他部 分之面積比宜與實施樣態(1)相同之程度。 以下之實施樣態(5)中,布料爲兩層構造布料,一 -105- 201009148 層僅由上述捲縮纖維A構成’另一層僅由上述彈性纖維B 構成。該構造由於捲縮纖維A在吸濕時之長度變短’因此 布料之尺寸變小。 以下之實施樣態(6)中’布料爲由三層以上構成之 多層布料,且具有以上述捲縮纖維A與上述非彈性纖維C 構成之層,及僅以上述非彈性纖維c構成之層’與僅以彈 性纖維B構成之層。該構造在吸濕時由於捲縮纖維A之長 度變短,因此布料尺寸變小。 Φ 以下之實施樣態(7)中,布料爲由三層以上構成之 多層布料,且具有以上述捲纖維A與上述非彈性纖維C構 成之層,與僅以上述捲縮纖維A構成之層,及僅以上述彈 性纖維B構成之層。該構造中由於吸濕時捲縮纖維A之長 度變短,因此布料尺寸變小。 以下之實施樣態(8)中,布料爲由三層以上構成之 多層布料,且具有僅以上述捲纖維A構成之層,及僅以上 述非彈性纖維C構成之層,及僅以上述彈性纖維B構成之 @ 層。該構造中由於吸濕時捲縮纖維A之長度變短,因此布 料尺寸變小。 一 本發明之布料可以例如下述之製造方法輕易製得。 首先,亦即將上述聚醯胺成分與聚酯成分複合紡絲成 並列型。此時,例如可如特開2000-1445 1 8號公報中所記 載’使用將高黏度成分側與低黏度成分側之吐出孔分離, 且使高黏度側之吐出線速度較小(吐出面積增大)之紡絲 模嘴’藉由使熔融聚酯通過高黏度側吐出孔及使熔融聚醯 -106- 201009148 胺通過低黏度側吐出孔側並接合,且經冷卻固化之方法獲 得紡絲條。又本發明中,藉由適當設計此時之紡絲模嘴, . 作爲並列型中空複合纖維亦可。紡絲所得之絲條除在暫且 捲取後將其延伸且進而視需要進行熱處理之所謂分別延伸 ,方式以外,亦可採用暫且不捲取未延伸絲下延伸且進而視 需要進行熱處理之所謂直接延伸方式中之方法。上述紡絲 中紡絲速度可採用例如通常採用之1 000〜3 500m/分鐘左右 φ 之紡絲速度者。又,延伸、熱處理係設定在延伸後之切斷 伸長度爲10〜60%,通常爲20~45%左右之條件下,因捲縮 之表現、製編織性等而言爲較佳。 接著,可同時使用上述複合纖維、與非捲縮或吸濕時 捲縮率無變化之彈性纖維B織編成布料後,施以染色加工 ,藉由染色加工時之熱使上述複合纖維展現潛在捲縮(稱 爲捲縮纖維A)。又,織編成布料時,較好以1.2倍以上 (較好1.5〜3倍)將上述彈性纖維B拉伸。藉由如此般將 • 彈性纖維B拉伸織編成,而獲得服貼性優異之布料。此時 ' ,織編成布料時,織編組織並無特別的限制,可適宜的選 ' 定上述者。 上述染色加工之溫度爲100〜140°C (更好爲11〇~135 °C ),時間以最高溫度之保持時間在5~40分鐘之範圍內 較佳。在該等條件下,藉由對布料施以染色加工,上述複 合纖維可藉由聚酯成分與聚醯胺成分之熱收縮差而展現捲 縮。 施以染色加工之布料通常係實施乾熱最終定型。此時 -107- 201009148 ,乾熱最終定型之溫度以120~200°C (更好爲140~180°C ),時間以1~3分鐘之範圍內較佳。但,當乾熱最終定型 之溫度低於120°C時,容易殘留染色加工時產生之摺痕, 又,會有完工製品之尺寸安定性不良之問題。相反地,當 乾熱最終定型之溫度高於200°C時,染色加工時展現之複 合纖維捲縮降低,有使纖維硬化且原布料質地變硬之情況 〇 如此獲得之布料中,布料因出汗或下雨而吸濕時,由 於捲縮纖維A本身之捲縮量增大使外觀長度變短。結果, 因吸濕使尺寸變小,又,經由與布料中所含彈性纖維B之 相乘效果而提升出汗時之服貼性。 另外,如此獲得之布料中,布料中所含捲縮纖維A同 時滿足下列(1)〜(3)之要件時,容易在吸濕時獲得優 異之尺寸變化而較佳。而且,具有該等特性之捲縮纖維A 可藉由上述之製造方法製造。 (1) 乾燥時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率DC在50〜80 %之範 圍內。 (2) 吸濕時捲縮纖維A之捲縮率HC在60〜90%之範 圍內。 (3) 上述捲縮率HC與捲縮率DC之差(HC-DC)爲 0.5 %以上。 其中,所謂乾燥時,係將試料放置在溫度20 °C、濕度 65%RH環境下24小時後之狀態,另一方面,所謂吸濕時 ,係將試料放置在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH之環境下24小 201009148 時後之狀態。 另外,本發明之布料亦可附加使用慣用方法之吸水加 . 工、潑水加工、起毛加工、紫外線遮蔽或抗菌劑、消臭劑 、防蟲劑、蓄光劑、逆反射劑、負離子發生劑等賦予機能 之各種加工。尤其是由於出汗時可更早的提升服貼性,因 此成爲吸汗加工有效之手段。 接著,本發明之纖維製品爲使用上述布料構成之選自 0 由外衣用衣料、運動用衣料及內襯用衣料組成之群組之纖 維製品。該纖維製品由於使用上述之布料,因此在吸濕時 之尺寸變小而提升出汗時之服貼性。 1又 述。 上制 有限 所何 明任 說之 細等 詳該 例受 施不 實並 以明 , 發 下本 例以但 施, 實明 9相關之本發 實施例中之各 物性係以下述方法測定者。 * <固有黏度(IV ) > ' 對於聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯,係定量計量樣品,溶劑使 用鄰-氯酚,依循慣用方法在35 °c下求得。對於尼龍6貝[J 同樣地使用苯酚/四氯乙烷之等質量混合溶劑,在30°C下 進行測定。 <數平均分子量> 兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子量500〜5,000之聚醯胺 -109- 201009148 (a)部分及雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均 分子量係將測定樣品溶解於氘化三氟乙酸/氘化氯仿之等 質量混合溶劑中,且測定NMR。自該測定結果’特定出各 部分之重複單位,由其結果求得數平均分子量。 <聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率> 複合纖維製造時可藉由齒輪泵調節條件藉此加以控制 ,但亦可以(7)中記載之方法爲準對形成複合纖維之聚 醯胺部分、聚酯部分進行NMR測定,藉由分析其結果計 算出聚醯胺成分中或聚酯成分中之聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率 <布料中之絲捲縮率> 將布料放置在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之氛圍氣體中 24小時後,自該布料裁剪30cmx30cm之小片(η數=5) 。接著,自各小片取出因吸濕使捲縮量變化之絲(改質聚 酯與聚醯胺之並列型複合纖維),且測定49/50mNx9x總 特克斯(tex ) ( lOOmg/de )荷重下之絲長度L0,卸除重 量1分鐘後測定49/50mNx9x4/1000x總特克斯(〇.4mg/de )荷重下之絲長度L1。接著將該絲放置於溫度20 °C、濕 度90%RH之氛圍氣體中24小時後,測定49/50mNx9x總 特克斯(100mg/de )荷重下之絲長度L0’,卸除重量1分 鐘後測定 49/50mNx9 x4/1 000 x總特克斯(0.4mg/de)荷重 下之絲長度L1’。 -110- 201009148 以下列之計算式自上述測定之數値計算出乾燥時之捲 縮率(DC)、吸濕時之捲縮率(HC)以及吸濕時與乾燥 . 時之捲縮率差。 乾燥時之捲縮率 DC(%) ={ (L0-L1) /L0} χΙΟΟ 吸濕時之捲縮率 HC ( % ) = { ( L0’-L1 ’)/L0’ } X 1〇〇In the present invention, the crimped fiber A is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber having an improved crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption, but a composite fiber obtained by joining a polyester component and a polyamide component to a G-type, and exhibiting a potential A crimped fiber having a crimped configuration of crimping property is preferred. The polyamine component is a polymer having a guanamine bond in the main chain, and examples thereof include, for example, nylon 4, nylon 6, nylon 12, nylon 46, and nylon 66. In particular, Nylon 6 and nylon 66 are preferable from the viewpoints of cost, versatility, and yarn-making properties. Further, the polyamide components may be copolymerized with a conventional component, or may contain a pigment such as titanium oxide or carbon black, a conventional antioxidant, an antistatic agent, or a light-resistant member. Agent, etc. 〇 On the other hand, the above polyester component preferably accounts for 60 to 99.5 mol% of the ethylene terephthalate unit in the repeating unit constituting the polyester, and the ethylene isophthalate unit occupies 〇 _5~40% by mole of copolymerized polyester. Generally, the heat shrinkage of the polyester is lower than that of the polyamine, but the heat shrinkage of the polyester can be brought close to the polyamine by using the copolymerized polyester as the polyester. As a result, in the crimped and bent structure at the time of moisture absorption, it is easy to form a structure in which the swollen polyamide component is located on the outer side and the polyester component is on the inner side, so that the crimp ratio is easily increased from -94 to 201009148. Among them, when the ethylene terephthalate unit is less than 60 mol%, the basic physical properties of the strong elongation of the obtained composite fiber cannot be sufficiently maintained. When the ethylene terephthalate unit exceeds 99.5 mol% and the isophthalic acid ethylene diester does not reach 0.5 mol%, the crimping rate of the composite fiber is not increased when it absorbs moisture (the length of the crimped filament is not Shorten) 'There is a situation in which it is difficult for the fabric to exhibit sufficient variation. When the ethylene isophthalate exceeds 40 mol%, the basic physical properties such as the strong elongation of the composite fiber cannot be maintained, and the thermal stability of the φ is also deteriorated, and the spinning nozzle is formed due to the decomposable foreign matter in the spinning step. Part of the filtration pressure (filling pressure) increased significantly. The polyesters may be produced by any method, for example, if polyethylene terephthalate is described, in order to directly esterify terephthalic acid with ethylene glycol, such as dimethyl terephthalate The lower alkylene terephthalate is directly esterified with ethylene glycol, or the terephthalic acid is reacted with ethylene oxide to form a terephthalic acid glycol ester and/or a low polymer thereof. Then, by heating the product under reduced pressure and polycondensing to a desired degree of polymerization, the polyester is further composed of a polyethylene terephthalate component and a * isophthalate. In addition to the diester component, a third component may be copolymerized, and the third component is preferably any of a dicarboxylic acid component or a diol component. As the dicarboxylic acid component, for example, phthalic acid, dibromoterephthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, diphenoxyethane dicarboxylic acid, such as β-hydroxyl B can be exemplified. A difunctional aromatic dicarboxylic acid of oxybenzoic acid, such as a difunctional aliphatic dicarboxylic acid of azelaic acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, or 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid. Further, other diol components may be substituted for one of the above-mentioned diol components, -95 to 201009148, and examples of such diol components are, for example, cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, neopentyl glycol, bisphenol A, and the like. Bisphenol S, 2,2-bis(4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane, bis(4-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl) milled, 2,2-bis(3,5·dibromo -4-. An aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic diol of (2-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl)propane. Further, in the above polyester, a small amount of the other polymer may be blended as needed, and a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane or methic acid may be used in a small amount. In addition, the polyester of the present invention is of course also added with a pigment such as titanium oxide or carbonium as in the case of a general polyester, and conventionally known as an antioxidant and an anti-tarnishing agent. The polyester component preferably contains a polyether ester decylamine. When the polyester component contains a polyether ester decylamine, the polyester component becomes soft, and when moisture absorbing, the polyester component is easily followed when the polyamine component is swollen, and the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption is apt to increase. Preferably. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably added to the polyester component in an amount of 5 to 55% by weight based on the weight of the polyester component. If it is less than 5% by weight, when the composite fiber absorbs moisture, the crimp ratio does not increase so much (the appearance length of the crimped fiber is difficult to be shortened), and a sufficient dimensional change may not be obtained as a cloth. Further, when it exceeds 55 wt%, there is a case where the spinning cannot be stabilized. The polyether ester decylamine is preferably an ethylene oxide having a number average molecular weight of 500 to 5,000 and a bisphenol having a number average molecular weight of 1,600 to 3,000. Derived from product (b). "Derivative" means the one obtained by reacting two components, or the one obtained by copolymerization. The polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals is preferably composed of a polyamine moiety and a molecular weight modifier. The polyamine moiety is at least (1) a decylamine ring-opening polymer, (2) a polycondensate of an aminocarboxylic acid, or (3) a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid-96-201009148 and a diamine. Any of the guanamines may be exemplified by butysamine, valeroside, caprolactam, amine, dodecane decylamine, undecyl decylamine and the like. Examples of (2) are ω-aminohexanoic acid, ω-amino heptanoic acid, ω-aminooctanoic acid, acid, 11-aminoundecanoic acid, 12-aminododecanoic acid and the like. (3 Acids are exemplified by adipic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, isophthalic acid, etc. Further, the diamine of (3) is exemplified by tetra-φ amine and pentamethylene diamine. , hexamethylenediamine, heptamethylenediamine, decamethylenediamine, etc. The above-mentioned indoleamines, dicarboxylic acids, diamines are known as polyamine partial forming monomers. The above-mentioned sub-forming monomers which are polyamines (a) having a carboxyl group at both terminals may be exemplified by two or more kinds. These are caprolactam, 12-aminododecanoic acid and hexamethylene. The acid-hexamethylene is preferably caprolactam. The above-mentioned two-terminal polyamines (a) having a carboxyl group and further a dicarboxylic acid component of φ 4 to 20 are used as molecular weight regulators. The above-mentioned polyamine moiety-forming monomer is obtained by encapsulation polymerization. The dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 20 carbon atoms is exemplified by succinic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid and sebacic acid. a fatty acid dicarboxylic acid such as acid or dodecanedioic acid; an aromatic dicarboxylic acid hexane dicarboxylic acid such as terephthalic acid, phthalic acid or naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, or An alkali metal salt of aliphatic bis-5-propenyl isophthalate such as hexyl-4,4-dicarboxylic acid or potassium phthalate isophthalate, etc., etc. Preferred in the dicarboxylic acid, dodecyl methylene diamine, and imidate carboxylic acid polyamine moiety of the aliphatic, heptane decyl carboxylic acid ω-amino hydrazine, using carbon number Underneath by ring polymerization or pentane pentanedioate, m-phenylene; 1,4-cyclocarboxylic acid: or 5-sulfo-dicarboxylic acid, -97-201009148 aromatic dicarboxylic acid and 5-sulfonate Bismuth isophthalate metal salt. More preferably, it is adipic acid, terephthalic acid, or sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate. When the polyamidene moiety forming monomer is subjected to ring-opening polymerization or polycondensation by a conventional method, the average degree of polymerization is preferably from 2 to 10, and the average degree of polymerization is from 3 to 8. As a result, the number average molecular weight of the polyamine moiety is from 100 to 1,000, more preferably from 300 to 700. Further, the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is a component which imparts a polyamine moiety to both ends of a dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms of a molecular weight modifier, and a polyamine moiety is provided at a single terminal. The component may also be a mixture of a component which imparts a polyamine moiety at both ends and a component which gives a polyamine moiety at one end. In the case of a mixture, it is preferable that the component which gives the polyamine moiety to the mono-terminal end of the monomolar portion has a composition of the polyamine moiety at both ends to be 1 to 10 moles. More preferably, it is a component imparted to a single end of 1 mole, and the components imparted at both ends are 3 to 8 moles. Therefore, the amount of the carboxyl group-containing component of the above polyamine moiety-forming monomer can be appropriately adjusted so as to have a carboxyl group at both terminals. If only indoleamine and/or an aminocarboxylic acid is used as the polyamine moiety-forming monomer, since the molecular weight modifier is a dicarboxylic acid component, a polyamine amine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be easily produced (a) ). When a polycondensate of a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine is used as a polyamidene moiety-forming monomer, for example, a polyalkylamine having a carboxyl group at both terminals can be produced by a method such as a reaction for finally changing a dicarboxylic acid of a polymer (a). . The number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) having a carboxyl group at both ends is usually from 500 to 5,000, preferably from 500 to 3,000. When the number average molecular weight is less than 500, the heat resistance of the polyether ester decylamine itself is lowered. On the other hand, when the -98-201009148 exceeds 5,000, the reactivity is lowered, so the polyether ester decylamine takes longer to manufacture. . In order to make the number average molecular weight fall within the range, the dicarboxylic acid component having 4 to 20 carbon atoms may be used as the molecular weight modifier, and the reaction conditions may be appropriately set in the polymerization of the polyamine moiety. Further, among the bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adducts (b), the bisphenols are exemplified by bisphenol A (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-propane), bisphenol F ( 4,4'-dihydroxydiphenylmethane), bisphenol S (4,4'-dihydroxydiphenylfluorene φ), and 4,4'-dihydroxydiphenyl-2,2-butane. The preferred of these is bisphenol A. The above bisphenol-based ethylene oxide adduct (b) is obtained by adding ethylene oxide to the bisphenols by a conventional method. Further, ethylene oxide and other alkylene oxides (propylene oxide, 1,2-butylene oxide, 1,4-butylene oxide, etc.) may be used, but the amount of other alkylene oxide used is entirely The weight of the ethylene oxide is normal, and is usually 10% by weight or less. Further, the above adduct (b) corresponds to two hydroxyl groups of bisphenols, and polymerization has an average of 20 to 70 mole of ethylene oxide and other alkylene oxides (hereinafter referred to as ethylene oxide). good. It is better to polymerize with 32~6 〇mole of epoxy 'ethane etc. That is, an hydroxy group (addition) corresponding to bisphenol has an addition of 10 to 35 moles, preferably 16 to 30 moles, more preferably 16 to 20 moles of oxygen. The number average molecular weight of the above-mentioned adduct (b) is usually ι, 6 〇〇 to 3 〇〇〇 ′, and it is particularly preferable to use an ethylene oxide addition molar number of from 3 to 60. If the average molecular weight is less than 1,600, the antistatic property is insufficient. On the other hand, when it exceeds 3,000, the polyether ester decylamine is required to be produced for a long period of time due to a decrease in reactivity. The number average molecular weight is preferably from 1,800 to 2,400, and the molar number of addition of ethylene oxide or the like is more preferably from 32 to 40. The number average molecular weight falls within this range. The molecular weight of the bisphenols can be determined by adjusting the molar number of addition of ethylene oxide or the like. The above-mentioned adduct (b) is used in the range of 20 to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b) in the polyetheresteramine. If the amount of the adduct (b) is less than 20% by weight, the antistatic property of the polyether ester decylamine is deteriorated. On the other hand, when it exceeds 80% by weight, the heat resistance of the polyether ester decylamine is lowered. Not good. More preferably, the adduct (b) is used in the range of 40 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the above (a) and (b). The relative viscosity of the polyether ester guanamine used in the present invention is 1.5 to 3.5 (0.5% by weight, m-cresol solution, 25 ° C), preferably 2.0 to 3.0. If it is less than 1.5', the difference in melt viscosity between the base polymer component (polyamide component and polyester component) during kneading is large, so it tends to stay in the inside of the tube or in the spinning unit, and spinning for a long time is likely to cause abnormal discharge. The quality of the obtained composite fiber is unstable. On the other hand, if it exceeds the range of 3.5, it will be the cause of the broken yarn when the yarn is twisted. * The polyether ester decylamine is most suitable for the polyamidamide component in an amount of 〇% by weight. When added in a small amount, the hygroscopic elongation of the polyamide component is lowered, and the function of shrinking the moisture at the time of moisture absorption which is the object of the present invention and shrinking the length of the appearance yarn is impaired. The side-by-side type composite fiber may have any fineness, cross-sectional shape, or composite form, and the single-filament fineness is preferably about 1.5 to 5.0 dtex. Further, when the composite fiber of the present invention is made into a hollow composite fiber, the sensitivity to humidity 201009148 becomes large, and the bulkiness also becomes large. Further, the area ratio of the cross section of the composite fiber of the polyamide component and the polyester component is preferably in the range of polyamine component/polyester component. = 30/70-70/30, more preferably 40/60-60. /40 range. When the conjugate fiber is a multifilament of a plurality of filaments, the total fineness of the multifilament is not particularly limited, but it can be used in the range of 40 to 200 dtex as a material for general clothing. Moreover, the interlacing process can also be performed as needed. φ The above composite fiber has potential crimping properties, and as described later, exhibits a potential crimping property upon heat treatment such as dyeing. Therefore, when the moisture absorption is carried out, the polyamide component is swollen and stretched, and the polyester component hardly causes a change in length, so that the crimp ratio is improved (the appearance length of the crimped fiber A is shortened). On the other hand, since the polyamide component shrinks during drying, the polyester component hardly changes in the degree of growth, and thus the crimp ratio is lowered (the appearance length of the crimped fiber A becomes long). The above-mentioned crimped fiber A is likely to be improved in shrinkage ratio at the time of moisture absorption, and it is preferable to use a twisted yarn or a weak twisted yarn of 300 T/m or less. Especially ', better with no silk. If it is strong silk, if the strong silk is given, the shrinkage rate is not easy to improve when it absorbs moisture. Further, even if the number of interlaces is about 20 to 60 pieces/m, the warp and weft interlacing air processing and/or the general false twisting processing may be performed. On the other hand, the elastic fiber B having the crimped shape which does not change during the non-crimping or moisture absorption is not particularly limited as long as it is a non-crimped fiber or a crimped elastic fiber which does not change when moisture is absorbed. By the presence of the elastic fiber, the feeling of wearing in the state of non-sweating is complemented, and the effect of improving the fit after the sweating is further improved - 101 - 201009148. In the present invention, "there is no change in the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption" is a difference (HC-DC) between the crimp ratio HC at the time of moisture absorption and the crimp ratio DC at the time of drying (HC-DC) of less than 0.5%. The fiber B is preferably an elastic fiber having an elongation of 300% or more. Specifically, the exemplified ones are polyurethane elastic fibers or polyester ether elastic fibers. The fabric of the present invention may also contain a non-elastic fiber C which is not crimped or which has a crimping rate which does not change upon moisture absorption. The non-elastic fiber C preferably has fibers of the above-described properties of the crimped fibers A and the elastic fibers B. For example, in order to realize a soft texture, a multifilament fiber having a single filament fineness of 1 dtex or less, a false twisted textured yarn, a multifilament fiber having a good color developability, or a processed yarn can be exemplified. Specifically, it is a polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate, nylon 6, nylon 66, polyacrylamide, polyethylene, polypropylene, etc. Polyolefin, acrylic acid, p-type or meta-linoleamide, and such modified synthetic fibers, natural fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, polyurethane-based elastic yarns, polyether ester-based elastic yarns Fibers suitable for clothing are free to choose. Among them, in terms of dimensional stability during moisture absorption or compatibility with the above-mentioned crimped fiber A (mixing property, blending, interlacing property, dyeability), polyethylene terephthalate is used. Preferably, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or a polyester fiber composed of the modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing the above copolymerized component. Further, the single yarn fineness and the number of filaments (the number of filaments) of the fiber B are not particularly limited, but the single yarn fineness is 0.1 in terms of improving the water absorption of the cloth and exhibiting the dimensional change performance when moisture is well exhibited. ~5dtex (better -102-201009148 0·5~2dtex), preferably in the range of 20 to 200 filaments (more preferably 30 to 100). In particular, it is also possible to perform warp and weft interlacing air processing and/or general false twist crimping so that the number of interlaces is about 20 to 60/m. The fabric of the present invention contains the above-mentioned crimped fiber A having an increased crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption, and the crimped elastic fiber B which has no curling property when it is not crimped or moisture-absorbent. The structure of the cloth is not limited to the structure of the weave and the number of layers. For example, φ is preferably woven, such as plain weave, woven fabric, satin weave, or woven structure, double rib, circular rib, tuck mesh, woven weave, warp woven, semi-twisted, etc. Not limited to these. The number of layers may be a single layer or a multilayer of two or more layers. In this case, at least one of the layers of the fabric preferably contains 30% by weight or more of the above-mentioned crimped fibers A in the total fiber weight constituting the layer. In the case of the 'multilayer structure fabric, when the crimped fiber A of 30% by weight or more is not contained in any one layer, the curling force of the crimped fiber A is increased, and the fabric is negatively restrained, so that the fabric cannot be sufficiently obtained. Invention φ The purpose of the service is not good. As for the fabric of the present invention, the crimped fiber A is exemplified by arranging the above-mentioned crimped fiber A with the above-mentioned elastic fiber B and, as the case, the above-mentioned fiber C, to form a warp and/or weft fabric of a woven structure, and the above-mentioned crimped fiber A is aligned with the elastic fiber B and the above-mentioned fiber C as needed to form a so-called bare fabric or the like. Further, in the fabric of the present invention, the crimped fiber A and the elastic fiber B may be such that the crimped fiber A is located in the sheath portion, and the elastic fiber B is placed in the core to form the core-sheath type composite yarn in the cloth. A preferred embodiment of the configuration of the above-mentioned crimped fiber A and fiber B contained in the fabric of the present invention is described below -103-201009148. First, in the embodiment (the cloth has a portion (Y portion) composed of the above A and the elastic fiber B, and a portion composed of the elastic fiber C and the elastic fiber B (the Z portion is formed in the warp direction and / or the latitudinal direction is continuous. When the moisture is absorbed, the size of the Y portion is more easily changed than that of the Z portion, and since the Y portion of the cloth becomes the warp direction and/or the weft, the size of the cloth becomes small when it absorbs moisture. In the case of the Y portion, the warp direction and/or the weft pattern are not particularly limited, and may be, for example, a fringe pattern, a grid pattern, a rhombic pattern pattern pattern displayed in the pattern of Fig. 16, and the like. The area ratio of the Y portion is not particularly limited in terms of material dimensional stability (Z part: Y part) 90 to 90: 10 (more preferably 20: 8 0 to 80: 20). There is no particular limitation on the area in the fabric that blocks the Y portion 1 by the Z portion, but in the range of 〇.〇1~4. good 0.1~1.0 cm2), it prevents the stickiness when sweating. It is better to live. On the other hand, the line width of the Z portion is preferably in the range of 0.5 ~. In the following embodiment (2), the cloth has a portion (Z portion) composed of the above-mentioned dimension C and the fiber B, and a fiber A and the inelastic fiber C and the fiber B; The above-mentioned X portion is formed by the above-mentioned non-fraction in the warp direction and/or the weft-retracting fiber, and in the structure, the (contraction) is continuous, the continuous stripe pattern, the slate side, but the cloth is placed at 1 〇: 〇. At this time, 0 cm2 (more than the skin of the skin of 100 mm, the above-mentioned crimping L portion (X-direction continuous. -104-201009148) In this configuration, the X portion is more likely to change in size when it is wetted than the z portion. And since the X portion of the cloth is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction, the size of the cloth when it absorbs moisture becomes small. At this time, the X portion is in a continuous pattern or the area ratio of the two is suitable to be implemented ( 1) the same degree. In the following embodiment (3), the cloth has a portion (X portion) of the crimped fiber a and the inelastic fiber C and the fiber B, and the crimped fiber A and the above a portion (Y φ portion) of the elastic fiber B in which the Y portion is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. In this configuration, the Y portion is more likely to change than the X portion when wet. The Y portion of the cloth becomes continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. Therefore, the cloth size becomes smaller when moisture is absorbed. At this time, the Y portion becomes a continuous pattern or the area ratio of the two is preferably the same as the embodiment (1). The extent of the following implementation 4) The cloth has a portion (X portion) φ composed of the crimped fiber A, the fiber C and the elastic fiber B, and a portion (Y portion ') of the crimped fiber A and the elastic fiber B. And a portion (Z portion) composed of the inelastic fiber C and the elastic fiber B, and the Y portion is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction. In the structure, the Y portion is compared with the other portion (X) Part or Z part) The size is more likely to change when moisture is absorbed, and since the Y portion in the cloth is continuous in the warp direction and/or the weft direction, the dimensional change of the cloth when it absorbs moisture is small. At this time, the Y portion becomes continuous. The pattern, or the area ratio of the Y part to the other parts is the same as the implementation state (1). In the following embodiment (5), the cloth is a two-layer fabric, and the -105-201009148 layer is only the above The crimped fiber A constitutes 'the other layer is composed only of the above-mentioned elastic fiber B. This structure is shortened by the length of the crimped fiber A at the time of moisture absorption, so the size of the cloth becomes small. In the following embodiment (6), 'clothing Multilayer consisting of three or more layers The cloth has a layer composed of the crimped fiber A and the non-elastic fiber C, and a layer composed of only the non-elastic fiber c and a layer composed only of the elastic fiber B. The structure is caused by moisture during moisture absorption. The length of the shrinkage fiber A is shortened, so that the cloth size is reduced. Φ In the following embodiment (7), the fabric is a multilayer fabric composed of three or more layers, and has the above-mentioned rolled fiber A and the above-mentioned non-elastic fiber C. The layer is a layer composed only of the above-mentioned crimped fibers A, and a layer composed only of the above-mentioned elastic fibers B. In this structure, since the length of the crimped fibers A is shortened during moisture absorption, the cloth size is reduced. In the embodiment (8), the fabric is a multilayer fabric composed of three or more layers, and has a layer composed only of the above-mentioned rolled fibers A, a layer composed only of the above-mentioned inelastic fibers C, and only the above-mentioned elastic fibers B. The @ layer of composition. In this configuration, since the length of the crimped fibers A becomes short when moisture is absorbed, the size of the cloth becomes small. A fabric of the present invention can be easily produced, for example, by the following manufacturing method. First, the polyamine component and the polyester component are conjugated into a side-by-side type. In this case, for example, the high viscosity component side and the low viscosity component side discharge hole are separated, and the discharge speed of the high viscosity side is small (the discharge area is increased as described in JP-A-2000-1445-18). The spinning nozzle of the large one is obtained by passing the molten polyester through the high-viscosity side discharge hole and passing the molten poly-peptide-106-201009148 amine through the low-viscosity side discharge hole side and joining, and obtaining the spun yarn by cooling and solidifying. . Further, in the present invention, it is also possible to design the spinning die at this time as a parallel type hollow composite fiber. The so-called filaments obtained by spinning may be stretched after being temporarily taken up and then subjected to heat treatment as needed, in addition to the method, the so-called direct extension without stretching the unstretched filaments and then heat treatment as needed may be used. The method in the extension mode. The spinning speed in the above spinning can be, for example, a spinning speed of φ of about 1,000 to 3,500 m/min which is usually used. Further, the elongation and the heat treatment are preferably set so that the elongation at break after stretching is from 10 to 60%, usually from about 20 to 45%, depending on the expression of the crimp, the braidability, and the like. Then, the conjugate fiber can be used at the same time, and the elastic fiber B having no change in the crimp ratio at the time of non-crimping or moisture absorption is woven into a cloth, and then subjected to dyeing processing, and the composite fiber exhibits a potential roll by heat during dyeing processing. Shrinkage (called crimped fiber A). Further, when weaving into a cloth, the elastic fiber B is preferably stretched by 1.2 times or more (preferably 1.5 to 3 times). By elastically kneading the elastic fiber B in this manner, a fabric excellent in conformability is obtained. At this time, when weaving into a fabric, there is no special restriction on the weaving organization, and it is appropriate to select the above. The temperature of the above dyeing process is 100 to 140 ° C (more preferably 11 〇 to 135 ° C), and the time is preferably in the range of 5 to 40 minutes at the highest temperature. Under these conditions, by subjecting the fabric to a dyeing process, the composite fiber can exhibit shrinkage by the difference in heat shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide component. The fabric to be dyed is usually subjected to dry heat final setting. At this time -107- 201009148, the final setting temperature of dry heat is 120~200 °C (more preferably 140~180 °C), and the time is preferably within 1~3 minutes. However, when the temperature at which the dry heat is finalized is lower than 120 °C, the crease generated during the dyeing process tends to remain, and the dimensional stability of the finished product may be poor. On the contrary, when the temperature at which the dry heat is finalized is higher than 200 ° C, the shrinkage of the composite fiber exhibited during the dyeing process is lowered, and the fiber is hardened and the texture of the original fabric is hardened. When sweating or raining and absorbing moisture, the length of the appearance is shortened due to an increase in the amount of crimping of the crimped fiber A itself. As a result, the size is made smaller by moisture absorption, and the applicability at the time of sweating is enhanced by the effect of multiplying with the elastic fiber B contained in the cloth. Further, in the cloth thus obtained, when the crimped fiber A contained in the fabric satisfies the following requirements (1) to (3), it is preferable to obtain an excellent dimensional change at the time of moisture absorption. Further, the crimped fiber A having such characteristics can be produced by the above-described manufacturing method. (1) The crimping ratio DC of the crimped fiber A during drying is in the range of 50 to 80%. (2) The crimping rate HC of the crimped fiber A during moisture absorption is in the range of 60 to 90%. (3) The difference between the above-described crimp ratio HC and the crimp ratio DC (HC-DC) is 0.5% or more. In the case of drying, the sample is placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, when the moisture is absorbed, the sample is placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90%. The state of 24 hours 201009148 in the RH environment. In addition, the fabric of the present invention may be additionally provided by the conventional method of water absorption, work, water repellent processing, raising processing, ultraviolet shielding or antibacterial agent, deodorant, insect repellent, light storage agent, retroreflective agent, negative ion generator, and the like. Various processing of functions. In particular, it is an effective means of sweat absorption because it can improve the conformity earlier when sweating. Next, the fiber product of the present invention is a fiber product selected from the group consisting of a garment for a garment, a garment for a garment, and a garment for a liner. Since the fiber product uses the above-mentioned cloth, the size at the time of moisture absorption becomes small, and the conformability at the time of sweating is enhanced. 1 is also described. The limited system of the system is exemplified by the following method. The details of this example are subject to falsehood and explanation. The physical properties of the present embodiment are determined by the following methods. * <Intrinsic Viscosity (IV) > ' For polyethylene terephthalate, a quantitative meter is used, and the solvent is o-chlorophenol, which is obtained at 35 ° C according to the usual method. For nylon 6 shells [J, a mass mixed solvent such as phenol/tetrachloroethane was used in the same manner, and the measurement was carried out at 30 °C. <Number average molecular weight> Polyamide having a number of carboxyl groups at both ends having an average molecular weight of 500 to 5,000-109-201009148 (a) Number average molecular weight of a part and an ethylene oxide adduct of the bisphenol (b) The measurement sample was dissolved in a mass mixed solvent such as trifluoroacetic acid/deuterated chloroform, and NMR was measured. From the measurement result, the repeating unit of each part was specified, and the number average molecular weight was determined from the result. <Weight ratio of polyether ester decylamine> The composite fiber can be controlled by gear pump adjustment conditions, but the method described in (7) can be used to form the polyamine component of the conjugate fiber. The polyester portion was subjected to NMR measurement, and the weight ratio of the polyether ester decylamine in the polyamide component or the polyester component was calculated by analyzing the result < silk shrinkage ratio in the cloth> After 24 hours in an ambient gas of °C and a humidity of 65% RH, a small piece of 30 cm x 30 cm (n number = 5) was cut from the cloth. Next, the filaments which change the amount of curl due to moisture absorption (the side-by-side type composite fiber of modified polyester and polyamine) are taken out from each small piece, and the load of 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) is measured. The length L0 of the yarn was measured, and the length L1 of the yarn under the load of 49/50 mNx9x4/1000x total tex (〇.4 mg/de) was measured after removing the weight for 1 minute. Then, the wire was placed in an atmosphere gas at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours, and then the wire length L0' of the 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) load was measured, and after removing the weight for 1 minute, The length L1' of the wire under the load of 49/50 mNx9 x4/1 000 x total tex (0.4 mg/de) was determined. -110- 201009148 Calculate the crimp ratio (DC) during drying, the crimp ratio (HC) during moisture absorption, and the crimp ratio during moisture absorption and drying from the above-mentioned number in the following calculation formula. . Crimping rate during drying DC(%) ={ (L0-L1) /L0} 卷 Crimping rate during moisture absorption HC ( % ) = { ( L0'-L1 ’)/L0’ } X 1〇〇
吸濕時與乾燥時之捲縮率差(%) =HC-DC ❹ <透氣性> 以 JIS L 1096-1998,6.27.1,A 法(佛雷哲(Frazier) 型透氣性試驗機法),對放置在溫度20°C、濕度6 5%RH 下24小時之針織面料,及放置在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH 下24小時之針織面料測定個別透氣性(η數=5),且以 下式計算出透氣性降低率。 • 透氣性降低率(% ) = ( APD-APH ) /APDxl 00 " 其中,APD爲在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH下之透氣性 ,ΑΡΗ爲在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH下之透氣性。 <漏水性> 使用 JIS L 1 092,6.3 (雨試驗 A 法)之 Bundesmann 雨試驗裝置,測定設定成總水量7升/分鐘於1〇分鐘內之 漏水量。 -111 - 201009148 <假撚捲縮加工絲之捲縮率> 將供試驗用之纖絲絲條捲繞在周長1.125m之檢尺機 之周圍,調製乾纖度爲3333dtex之絞紗。 將上述絞紗懸吊在尺規板之吊釘上,在其下方附加 . 5.9cN ( 6gr)之初期荷重,進而於附加588cN ( 600gr )之 荷重時測定絞紗長度LO。隨後,立即自上述絞紗卸除荷 重,自尺規板之吊釘取下,使該絞紗浸漬在沸水中30分 @ 鐘,展現捲縮。自沸水中取出經沸水處理後之絞紗,以濾 紙吸除絞紗中所含之水分,且於室溫下風乾24小時。將 經過風乾之絞紗懸吊在尺規板之吊釘上,且於下方附加 5 8 8cN ( 60 0gr )之荷重,1分鐘後測定絞紗之長度Lla, 隨後自絞紗卸除荷重,且於1分鐘後測定絞紗之長度L2a 。以下式計算出供試驗用纖絲絲條之捲縮率(CP )。 c P ( % ) = { (Lla-L2a) /L0 } χ 1 0 0 ❹ 〔實施例1〕 以習知方法,在紡絲溫度 290 °C 、紡絲速度 1000m/min下將固有黏度(IV)爲I·1之尼龍6(Ny6)、 及添加有40重量%之聚醚酯醯胺(聚酿胺(a)部分之數 平均分子量1 5 0 0,環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均分 子量2000,相對黏度2.2)之間苯二甲酸共聚合之聚對苯 二甲酸乙二酯顆粒(間苯二甲酸共聚合比例爲〇·5莫耳% 201009148 ,IV = 0.65)加以紡絲,接著不捲取而以延伸溫度60°C、 延伸倍率2.5倍延伸,接著在130°C下熱定型獲得絲狀。 . 將尼龍6與聚醚酯醯胺摻合而成之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯以 重量比爲50 : 50之方式接合成並列型,獲得56dtex/24fil 之複合纖維。 接著,使用36機號針之經絨-經平編織機,將上述複 合纖維(未經沸水處理,未展現捲縮。無撚絲)滿穿( φ full set)於前梭上,將33dtex/36fil之聚對苯二甲酸乙二 酯假撚捲縮加工絲(捲縮率2 0% )滿穿於後梭上,以前梭 10-23,後梭12-10之半組織,機上橫列針數96橫列針數 /2.54cm之編條件編成斜紋毛織布之針織面料。使所得針 織面料在130°C下維持15分鐘進行染色加工,使複合纖維 之潛在捲縮性能顯著化之後,於100 °C之溫度乾燥,接著 在160°C下進行乾熱最終定型1分鐘。所得針織面料之之 評價結果列於表1,獲得乾燥時之透氣性爲39CC/Cm2/s, φ 吸濕時之透氣性爲22 cc/cm2/s,透氣性降低率44%及吸濕 時透氣性降低、於耐漏水性1190cc作爲未經撥水加工之 * 針織面料爲耐漏水性亦高之針織面料。該針織面料之密度 爲70縱列針數/2.54em、79橫列針數/2.54cm。自針織面 料抽取之複合纖維中,乾燥時之捲縮率DC爲64%,吸濕 時之捲縮率HC爲77%,乾燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差( H C - D C )爲 1 3 %。 接著,使用該編物獲得Τ恤(運動用衣料)穿著後, 有雨時之透氣性降低而較舒適。 -113- 201009148 〔實施例2〕 實施例1中,針織面料經染色加工後,使用氟樹脂系 撥水加工處理液進行軋染處理,以100°c之溫度乾燥後, 於溫度160 °c進行乾熱最終定型1分鐘後,以滾筒滾軋( 由利Roll (股)製)機,在輥溫度160°C、夾嘴壓力 5 8 8N/cm ( 6 0kgf/cm )下加熱加壓加工所得之針織面料之 評價結果列於表1。獲得乾燥時之透氣性爲8cc/cm2/s、吸 濕時之透氣性爲5(:(:/(:1112/3、透氣性降低率3 8%且吸濕時 之透氣性下降、於耐漏水性27cc之耐漏水性亦極高之針 織面料。另外,自針織面料抽取之複合纖維中,乾燥時之 捲縮率DC爲62%,吸濕時之捲縮率HC爲73%,乾燥時 與濕潤時之捲縮率差(HC-DC)爲11%。 〔實施例3〕 使用36機號針之經絨-經平編織機,將實施例1中使 用之33dtex/36fil之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯假撚捲縮加工絲 (捲縮率20% )滿穿於前梭上,且將實施例1中使用之複 合纖維56dtex/24fil滿穿於後梭上,以前梭10-23、後梭 12-10之半組織,機上橫列針數爲106橫列針數/2.54cm之 編條件編成斜紋毛織布之針織面料。使所得針織面料在 130°C下維持15分鐘進行染色加工,使複合纖維之潛在捲 縮性能顯著化之後,於i〇〇°c之溫度乾燥,接著在i6〇°c 下進行乾熱最終定型1分鐘。所得針織面料之之評價結果 201009148 列於表1,獲得乾燥時之透氣性爲17cc/cm2/s、吸濕時之 透氣性爲12 cc/cm2/s、透氣性降低率29%且吸濕時之透氣 . 性下降,於耐漏水性1 475cc作爲未經撥水加工之針織面Difference in shrinkage ratio between moisture absorption and drying (%) = HC-DC ❹ <breathability> JIS L 1096-1998, 6.27.1, Method A (Frazier type gas permeability tester) Method), for a knitted fabric placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 6 5% RH for 24 hours, and a knitted fabric placed at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours to measure individual gas permeability (η number = 5) ), and the gas permeability reduction rate is calculated by the following formula. • Gas permeability reduction rate (%) = (APD-APH) / APDxl 00 " where APD is gas permeability at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH, and the temperature is 20 ° C, humidity 90% RH Breathability. <Water Leakage> The amount of water leaked in a total water volume of 7 liters/min in 1 minute was measured using a Bundesmann rain test apparatus of JIS L 1 092, 6.3 (rain test A method). -111 - 201009148 <Pinch ratio of false twist crimping yarn> The filament yarn for testing was wound around a gauge machine having a circumference of 1.125 m to prepare a skein having a dry fineness of 3333 dtex. The skein was suspended from the shackle of the ruler plate, and the initial load of 5.9 cN (6 gr) was added underneath, and the skein length LO was measured at a load of 588 cN (600 gr ). Subsequently, the load was immediately removed from the above skein, and the skein was removed from the ruler plate to make the skein immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes, showing curling. The skein after boiling water treatment was taken out from the boiling water, the moisture contained in the skein was sucked off with a filter paper, and air-dried at room temperature for 24 hours. Hang the air-dried skein on the slat of the ruler plate, and add a load of 5 8 8cN ( 60 0gr ) to the bottom, and measure the length Lla of the skein after 1 minute, then remove the load from the skein, and The length L2a of the hank was measured after 1 minute. The crimping ratio (CP) of the test filaments was calculated by the following formula. c P ( % ) = { (Lla-L2a) / L0 } χ 1 0 0 ❹ [Example 1] Intrinsic viscosity (IV) at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C and a spinning speed of 1000 m/min by a conventional method Nylon 6 (Ny6) which is I·1, and 40% by weight of polyether ester decylamine (number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) moiety is 1 500, ethylene oxide adduct (b) Partial number average molecular weight 2000, relative viscosity 2.2) phthalic acid copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate particles (interpolymerization ratio of isophthalic acid is 〇·5 mol% 201009148, IV = 0.65) The yarn was spun, and then stretched at an elongation temperature of 60 ° C and a stretching ratio of 2.5 times without being wound up, followed by heat setting at 130 ° C to obtain a filament. A polyethylene terephthalate obtained by blending nylon 6 with a polyether ester decylamine was joined into a side-by-side manner in a weight ratio of 50:50 to obtain a composite fiber of 56 dtex/24 fil. Next, using the 36-gauge needle-warp-knit flat knitting machine, the above composite fiber (not boiling water, not showing curling. No twisting) is fully worn on the front shuttle, 33dtex/ 36 fil of polyethylene terephthalate false twist crimping processing wire (winding rate 20%) is full on the rear shuttle, the previous shuttle 10-23, the rear shuttle 12-10 half of the organization, the machine ranks Knitted fabric of twill weave fabric with a number of stitches of 96 rows/2.54 cm. The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to dyeing treatment at 130 ° C for 15 minutes to make the potential crimping property of the composite fiber remarkable, and then dried at a temperature of 100 ° C, followed by dry heat at 160 ° C for final setting for 1 minute. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1, and the gas permeability at the time of drying was 39 CC/cm 2 /s, the gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption was 22 cc/cm 2 /s, the gas permeability reduction rate was 44%, and moisture absorption. The air permeability is reduced, and the water leakage resistance is 1190 cc as a non-water-repellent processing*. The knitted fabric is a knitted fabric with high water leakage resistance. The density of the knitted fabric was 70 in the number of stitches/2.54 em, and the number of stitches in the 79 course was 2.54 cm. In the composite fiber extracted from the knitted fabric, the crimping ratio DC during drying is 64%, the crimping rate HC during moisture absorption is 77%, and the crimping ratio during drying and wetting is (HC - DC ) is 1 3 . %. Then, after wearing the knitted fabric (sports clothing), the breathability is reduced and the comfort is comfortable. -113-201009148 [Example 2] In Example 1, the knitted fabric was subjected to dyeing processing, and then subjected to padding treatment using a fluororesin-based water-repellent processing liquid, dried at a temperature of 100 ° C, and then subjected to a temperature of 160 ° C. After the dry heat was finalized for 1 minute, it was heated by press-rolling at a roll temperature of 160 ° C and a nozzle pressure of 580 N/cm (60 kgf/cm) by roller rolling (manufactured by Lee Roll Co., Ltd.). The evaluation results of knitted fabrics are shown in Table 1. The gas permeability at the time of drying is 8 cc/cm 2 /s, and the gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption is 5 (: (: / (: 1112 / 3), the gas permeability reduction rate is 3 8%, and the gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption is lowered, and resistance is obtained. The water-repellent fabric with a water-repellent resistance of 27cc is also extremely high. In addition, in the composite fiber extracted from the knitted fabric, the crimping ratio DC is 62% during drying, and the crimping rate HC during moisture absorption is 73%. The difference in crimp ratio (HC-DC) at the time of wetting was 11%. [Example 3] The 33 dtex/36 fil polyparaphenylene used in Example 1 was used using a 36-gauge needle-knit-knit flat knitting machine. Ethylene diformate false twist crimping processing wire (winding rate 20%) was fully worn on the front shuttle, and the composite fiber 56dtex/24fil used in Example 1 was fully worn on the rear shuttle, previously shuttle 10-23 The half-structure of the rear shuttle 12-10, the number of stitches on the machine is 106 knitting stitches/2.54 cm, and the knitted fabric of the twill weave is knitted. The obtained knitted fabric is dyed at 130 ° C for 15 minutes for dyeing. After processing, the potential crimping performance of the composite fiber is remarkable, and then dried at a temperature of i〇〇°c, followed by dry heat at i6〇°c for final setting for 1 minute. The evaluation result of the woven fabric 201009148 is shown in Table 1, and the gas permeability at the time of drying was 17 cc/cm 2 /s, the gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption was 12 cc/cm 2 /s, the gas permeability reduction rate was 29%, and moisture absorption was performed. Breathable. Sexually degraded, with a water resistance of 1 475cc as a knitted surface without water treatment
料耐漏水性亦高之針織面料。又,自針織面料抽取之複合 . 纖維中,乾燥時之捲縮率DC爲65%,吸濕時之捲縮率HC 爲79%,乾燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差(HC-DC)爲14%。 φ 〔實施例4〕 實施例3中,使針織面料經染色加工後,使用氟樹脂 系撥水加工處理液軋染,於1 00°C之溫度下乾燥後,於溫 度160 °C下進行乾熱最終定型1分鐘後,以滾筒滾軋(由 利 Roll (股)製)機,在輥溫度160°C、夾嘴壓力 5 8 8N/cm ( 60kgf/cm )下加熱加壓加工所得之針織面料之 評價結果列於表1。獲得乾燥時之透氣性爲3CC/cm2/S,吸 濕時之透氣性爲2CC/cm2/s,透氣性降低率33%且吸濕時 ❿ 之透氣性降低,耐漏水性亦爲5 cc之耐漏水性極高之針織 ' 面料。另外,自針織面料抽取之複合纖維中,乾燥時之捲 - 縮率DC爲61%,吸濕時之捲縮率HC爲70%,乾燥時與 濕潤時之捲縮率差(HC-DC)爲9%。 〔比較例1〕 使用36機號針之經絨-經平編織機,將收縮率不同之 兩種聚酯接合成50: 50並列行之56dtex/24fil之捲縮複合 纖維滿穿於前梭上,且將實施例1中使用之33dtex/36fil -115- 201009148 之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯假撚捲縮加工絲(捲縮率20%)滿 穿於後梭上,以前梭10-23,後梭12-10之半組織,機上 橫列針數96橫列針數/2.54cm之編條件編成斜紋織布針織 面料。使所得針織面料在130 °C下維持15分鐘進行染色加 工,使複合纖維之潛在捲縮性能顯現化之後,於l〇〇°C之 溫度下乾燥,接著在16(TC下進行乾熱最終定型1分鐘。 所得針織面料之評價結果列於表1,可獲得乾燥時之透氣 性爲42CC/cm2/s,吸濕時之透氣性爲41cc/cm2/s,透氣性 降低率2%且吸濕時之透氣性幾乎無變化,耐漏水性亦爲 3 2 40cc之爲未經撥水加工之針織面料通常等級之耐漏水性 之針織面料。另外,自針織面料抽取之複合纖維中,乾燥 時之捲縮率DC爲58%,吸濕時之捲縮率HC爲58%,乾 燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差(HC-DC )爲0%。 〔比較例2〕 比較例1中,將針織面料染色加工後,使用氟樹脂系 撥水加工處理液進行軋染處理,於l〇〇°C之溫度下乾燥後 ,於溫度160 °C下進行乾熱最終定型1分鐘後,以滾筒滾 軋(由利Roll (股)製)機,在輥溫度160°C、夾嘴壓力 60kgf/cm下加熱加壓加工所得之針織面料之評價結果列於 表1。獲得乾燥時之透氣性爲14cc/Cm2/S,吸濕時之透氣 性爲1 4cc/cm2/s,透氣性降低率0%且吸濕時之透氣性無 變化,耐漏水性亦爲1 20cc之與作爲撥水加工製品通常程 度之耐漏水性之針織面料。另外,自針織面料抽取之複合 -116- 201009148 纖維中,乾燥時之捲縮率DC爲56%,吸濕時之捲縮率HC 爲5 6%,乾燥時與濕潤時之捲縮率差(HC-DC)爲0%。 實施例 1 實施例 2 實施例 3 實施例 4 比較例 1 比較例 2 布料中絲之捲 縮率[%] 乾燥時(DC) 64 62 65 61 58 56 濕潤時(HC) 77 73 79 70 58 56 差(HC-DC) 13 11 14 9 0 9 透氣性 [cc/cm2/s] 乾燥時 39 8 17 3 42 14 濕潤時 22 5 12 2 41 14 下降率[%] 44 38 29 33 2 0 耐漏水性[CC] 1190 27 1475 5 3240 120 以下,以實施例詳細說明上述20〜28之本發明,彳旦本 發明並不受該等任何之限制。而且,實施例中之各物性爲 以下述方法測定者》 <固有黏度(IV) > 對於聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯’係定量計量樣品,溶劑使 用鄰-氯酚,依循慣用方法在3 5 °c下求得。對於尼龍6則 同樣地使用苯酣/四氯乙院之等質量混合溶劑,在3〇 °c下 進行測定。 <數平均分子量> 兩末端具有竣基之數平均分子量500〜5,〇〇〇之聚醯胺 -117- 201009148 (a)部分及雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均 分子量係將測定樣品溶解於氘化三氟乙酸/氘化氯仿之等 質量混合溶劑中,且測定NMR。自該測定結果,特定出各 部分之重複單位,由其結果求得數平均分子量。 <聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率> 複合纖維製造時可藉由齒輪泵調節條件藉此加以控制 ,但亦可以(7)中記載之方法爲準對形成複合纖維之聚 醯胺部分、聚酯部分進行NMR測定,藉由分析其結果計 算出聚醯胺成分中或聚酯成分中之聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率 <布料中之絲捲縮率> 將布料放置在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之氛圍氣體中 24小時後,自該布料裁剪30cmx30cm之小片(η數=5) 。接著,自各小片取出因吸濕使捲縮量變化之絲(改質聚 酯與聚醯胺之並列型複合纖維),且測定49/50mNx9x總 特克斯(tex) (100mg/de)荷重下之絲長度L0,卸除重 量 1分鐘後測定49/50mNx9x4/1000x總特克斯(〇.4mg/de )荷重下之絲長度L1。接著將該絲放置於溫度20 °C、濕 度90%RH之氛圍氣體中24小時後,測定49/50mNx9x總 特克斯(lOOmg/de)荷重下之絲長度L0’,卸除重量1分 鐘後測定 49/50mNx9x4/1 000x總特克斯(0.4mg/de)荷重 下之絲長度L 1 ’。 -118- 201009148 以下列之計算式自上述測定之數値計算出乾燥時之捲 縮率(DC )、吸濕時之捲縮率(HC )以及吸濕時與乾燥 時之捲縮率差。Knitted fabric with high water leakage resistance. In addition, the composite of the knitted fabric is extracted. In the fiber, the crimping rate DC is 65% when dry, the crimping rate HC is 79% when moisture is absorbed, and the crimping ratio is poor when wet and wet (HC-DC). It is 14%. Φ [Example 4] In Example 3, the knitted fabric was subjected to dyeing, and then padded with a fluororesin water-repellent treatment liquid, dried at a temperature of 100 ° C, and dried at a temperature of 160 ° C. After the heat was finalized for 1 minute, the knitted fabric obtained by heating and pressing at a roll temperature of 160 ° C and a nozzle pressure of 5 8 8 N/cm (60 kgf/cm) was rolled by a roller (manufactured by Lee Roll). The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. The gas permeability at the time of drying is 3CC/cm2/S, the gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption is 2CC/cm2/s, the gas permeability reduction rate is 33%, and the gas permeability of the ruthenium is reduced at the time of moisture absorption, and the water leakage resistance is also 5 cc. Knitted fabric with extremely high water resistance. In addition, in the composite fiber extracted from the knitted fabric, the shrinkage ratio DC during drying is 61%, the crimping rate HC during moisture absorption is 70%, and the crimp ratio during drying and wetting is poor (HC-DC). It is 9%. [Comparative Example 1] Two kinds of polyesters having different shrinkage ratios were joined into a 50:50 side-by-side 56dtex/24fil crimped composite fiber using a 36-gauge needle-knit-knit flat knitting machine. And the polyethylene terephthalate false twist crimping processing wire (winding rate 20%) of 33 dtex/36 fil -115-201009148 used in Example 1 was fully worn on the rear shuttle, before shuttle 10-23 The half-structure of the rear shuttle 12-10, the number of stitches on the machine, the number of stitches in the 96-row row, and the number of stitches of 2.54 cm are knitted into a twill weave knitted fabric. The obtained knitted fabric was dyed at 130 ° C for 15 minutes to visualize the potential crimping property of the composite fiber, and then dried at a temperature of 10 ° C, followed by dry heat final setting at 16 (TC) 1 minute. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric are shown in Table 1, and the gas permeability at the time of drying was 42 cc/cm 2 /s, the gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption was 41 cc/cm 2 /s, the gas permeability reduction rate was 2%, and moisture absorption. The air permeability is almost unchanged, and the water leakage resistance is also 3 2 40 cc. It is a water-resistant knitted fabric of the usual grade of knitted fabric without water-repellent processing. In addition, in the composite fiber extracted from knitted fabric, when dry The crimp ratio DC was 58%, the crimp ratio HC at the time of moisture absorption was 58%, and the difference in crimp ratio (HC-DC) at the time of drying and wetness was 0%. [Comparative Example 2] In Comparative Example 1, After the dyeing process of the knitted fabric, the fluororesin water-repellent processing liquid is used for padding treatment, dried at a temperature of 10 ° C, and then dried at a temperature of 160 ° C for 1 minute, and then rolled by a roller. Rolling (made by Lee Roll), at a roll temperature of 160 ° C, a nozzle pressure of 60 kgf / cm The evaluation results of the knitted fabric obtained by the heat and pressure processing are shown in Table 1. The gas permeability at the time of drying was 14 cc/cm 2 /s, the gas permeability at the time of moisture absorption was 14 cc/cm 2 /s, and the gas permeability reduction rate was 0%. And the moisture permeability is not changed when moisture absorption, and the water leakage resistance is also a knitted fabric of 1 20 cc and the water leakage resistance which is a normal degree of the water-repellent processed product. In addition, the composite-116-201009148 fiber extracted from the knitted fabric is dried. At this time, the crimp ratio DC is 56%, the crimp ratio HC at the time of moisture absorption is 5 6%, and the curl ratio (HC-DC) at the time of drying and wetting is 0%. Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Winding rate of silk in cloth [%] When dry (DC) 64 62 65 61 58 56 When wet (HC) 77 73 79 70 58 56 Poor (HC-DC) 13 11 14 9 0 9 Gas permeability [cc/cm2/s] When dry 39 8 17 3 42 14 When wet 22 5 12 2 41 14 Decrease rate [%] 44 38 29 33 2 0 Water resistance [CC] 1190 27 1475 5 3240 120 Hereinafter, the invention of the above 20 to 28 will be described in detail by way of examples, and the present invention is not limited thereto. Moreover, the physical properties in the examples are as follows. "Measurer" <Intrinsic Viscosity (IV) > For polyethylene terephthalate's quantitative measurement sample, the solvent is o-chlorophenol, which is obtained by conventional method at 35 ° C. For nylon 6 Similarly, a mass mixed solvent such as benzoquinone/tetrachloroethylene was used, and the measurement was carried out at 3 ° C. <Number average molecular weight> The number average molecular weight of the fluorenyl group at both ends is 500 to 5, and the polyamine of hydrazine-117-201009148 (a) and the ethylene oxide adduct of the bisphenol (b) The partial number average molecular weight was obtained by dissolving the measurement sample in a mass mixed solvent such as trifluoroacetic acid/deuterated chloroform, and measuring NMR. From the results of the measurement, the repeating unit of each part was specified, and the number average molecular weight was determined from the result. <Weight ratio of polyether ester decylamine> The composite fiber can be controlled by gear pump adjustment conditions, but the method described in (7) can be used to form the polyamine component of the conjugate fiber. The polyester portion was subjected to NMR measurement, and the weight ratio of the polyether ester decylamine in the polyamide component or the polyester component was calculated by analyzing the result < silk shrinkage ratio in the cloth> After 24 hours in an ambient gas of °C and a humidity of 65% RH, a small piece of 30 cm x 30 cm (n number = 5) was cut from the cloth. Next, the filaments (the side-by-side type composite fiber of modified polyester and polyamine) which were changed by moisture absorption were taken out from each small piece, and the weight of 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) was measured. The length L0 of the yarn was measured, and the length L1 of the yarn under the load of 49/50 mNx9x4/1000x total tex (〇.4 mg/de) was measured after removing the weight for 1 minute. Then, the wire was placed in an atmosphere gas at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours, and then the wire length L0' of the 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) load was measured, and after removing the weight for 1 minute, The wire length L 1 ' under a load of 49/50 mNx9x4/1 000x total tex (0.4 mg/de) was determined. -118- 201009148 The shrinkage ratio (DC) at the time of drying, the crimp ratio (HC) at the time of moisture absorption, and the difference in crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption and drying were calculated from the above-mentioned number of calculus by the following calculation formula.
乾燥時之捲縮率 DC(%) ={ (L0-L1) /L0} xlOO 吸濕時之捲縮率 HC(%) ={ (L0’-L1’)/L0’} χΙΟΟCrimping rate during drying DC(%) ={ (L0-L1) /L0} xlOO Coiling rate at moisture absorption HC(%) ={ (L0'-L1')/L0’} χΙΟΟ
吸濕時與乾燥時之捲縮率差(%) =HC-DC Φ <厚度變化率> 將布料放置於溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之環境下24小 時後,自該布料裁剪30cmx30cm之小片(η數=5)。接著 ,使用超高精密雷射變位計(KEYENCE公司製造之型號 LC-2400 )測定在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH環境下放置24 小時後之布料乾燥時之厚度(TD)。接著,使用超高精密 雷射變位計(KEYENCE公司製造之型號LC-2400 )測定 參 該布料在溫度2(TC、濕度90%RH環境下放置24小時後之 ' 厚度作爲吸濕時之厚度(TW)。接著,以下式計算出厚 • 度變化率。另外,求得η數爲5之平均値。 厚度變化率〔%〕= ( ( TW-TD ) /TD ) Χ100 <防透明性> 將布料放置在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之環境下24小 時後,自該布料裁剪3 0cm X 3 0cm之小片(η數=5)。接著 -119- 201009148 ,將該布料覆蓋在印字黑色文字之白紙上,以下述三等評 價文字讀取容易度作爲乾燥時之防透明性。 3級··無法分辨文字之存在 2級··可分辨文字之存在,但無法讀取文字 1級··文字可被讀取 另一方面,對該布料使用霧吹,均勻的噴霧至該布料 之水份率相對於布料重量爲100重量爲止,以與上述相同 之方法評價作爲濕潤時之防透明性。 〔實施例5〕 以習知方法,在紡絲溫度290 °C、紡絲速度1 000m/ min下將固有黏度(IV)爲1.1之尼龍6(Ny6)、及添加 有40重量%之聚醚酯醯胺(聚醯胺(a)部分之數平均分 子量15 00,環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均分子量 2000,相對黏度2.2)之間苯二甲酸共聚合之聚對苯二甲 酸乙二酯顆粒(間苯二甲酸共聚合比例爲〇.5莫耳%, IV = 0.65)加以紡絲,接著不捲取而以延伸溫度60°C、延 伸倍率2.5倍延伸,接著在130°C下熱定型獲得絲狀。將 尼龍6與聚醚酯醯胺摻合而成之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯以重 量比爲50 : 50之方式接合成並列型,獲得56dtex/24fil之 捲縮複合纖維。 接著,利用上述複合纖維(未經沸水處理,未展現捲 縮。無撚絲),使用28機號針之雙梳櫛圓編機,將上述 複合纖維與56dtex/72fil之一般聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯多纖 -120- 201009148 絲假撚加工絲(纖維B )編成如圖1所示之編組織之編物 〇 接著,在溫度130 °C,維持時間15分鐘下進行染色加 工(染色成防透明性特別有問題之螢光白色),使複合纖 維之潛在捲縮性能顯現化,作爲捲縮纖維A。此時,藉由 將相對於染液爲2毫升/升之比例之吸水加工劑(聚對苯 二甲酸乙二酯-聚乙二醇共聚物)在染色加工之同時進行 同浴處理,藉此賦予編物吸水加工劑。接著,在溫度160 °C下對該圓編物進行乾熱最終定型。 該編物中,厚度方向之剖面係如圖2所示,一層(Z 層)僅以纖維B構成,另一層(Y層)僅以捲縮纖維A構 成,Z層與Y層經部分連結。 自 Y層側觀看之針織面料表面係如圖3所示,爲Y 層與Z層以格子狀連結,吸濕時該格子以外之未結接之γ 層之四個角部分收縮之結果,使位於上述Y層之四個角部 分上之Z層四個角部分成爲凸部而一起展現凹凸,使厚度 增加。 該編物爲乾燥時與吸濕時之厚度變化率爲87%、亦滿 足濕潤時透明感減少(3級)者。評價結果列於表2中。 接著,使用該編物獲得T恤(運動用衣料)穿著後, 出汗時之透明感減少而較佳。 〔實施例6〕 使用28機號針之經絨-經平編織機,後梭上滿穿實施 -121 - 201009148 例5中使用之56dtex/72fil之一般聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯假 撚加工絲(纖維B),中梭上以8進8出設定實施例5中 使用之複合纖維(纖維A),前梭上亦以8進8出設定同 樣之複合纖維(纖維A),且以後梭1〇-12,中梭10-12-23-34-45-56-67-78-89-87-76-65-54-43-32-21,前梭 89-87-76-65-54-43-32-21-1 0-12-23-34-45-56-67-78 之編組織,機 上橫列針數60橫列針數/2.54cm之編條件編成經絨-經平 編物。接著,如實施例5般使該針織面料進行染色修飾。 該編物中,厚度方向之剖面係如圖4所示般,由僅以 捲縮纖維B構成之部分(Z部分)與以捲縮纖維A及纖維 B構成之部分(X部分)構成。編物表面係如圖5所示般 ’ X部分爲菱形花紋狀且於編物全體連續,濕潤時,該菱 形花紋狀之中間部分(Z部分)成爲凸部而展現凹凸,使 厚度增加。該編物中,乾燥時與吸濕時之厚度變化率爲 113%,亦爲滿足濕潤時透明感減少者。評價結果列於表2 〔比較例3〕 除使用實施例5中使用之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯多纖絲 假撚加工絲(纖維B)代替實施例5中使用之複合纖維( 纖維A)以外,餘如實施例5般獲得之針織面料,其乾燥 時與吸濕時之厚度變化率爲0%,濕潤時透明感增加而無 法獲得滿意者。評價結果列於表2中。 -122- 201009148 〔表2〕 表2 實施例5 實施例ό 比較例3 布料中絲之捲縮率[%] 乾燥時(DC) 67 65 71 吸濕時_ 79 78 71 差(HC-DC) 12 13 0 厚度 乾燥時[mm] 0.82 0.70 0.89 吸濕時[mm] 1.53 1.49 0.89 變化率[%] 87 113 0 防透性 乾燥時 3級 2級 3級 濕潤時 3級 3級 1級 以下,以實施例詳細說明上述29-3 3之本發明,但本 發明並不受該等任何之限制。而且,實施例中之各物性爲 以下述方法測定者。 <固有黏度(IV) > 對於聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯,係定量計量樣品,溶劑使 用鄰-氯酚,依循慣用方法在35°C下求得。對於尼龍6則 同樣地使用苯酚/四氯乙烷之等質量混合溶劑,在30°C下 進行測定。 <數平均分子量> 兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子量500〜5,000之聚醯胺 (a)部分及雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均 分子量係將測定樣品溶解於氘化三氟乙酸/氘化氯仿之等 質量混合溶劑中,且測定NMR。自該測定結果,特定出各 -123- 201009148 部分之重複單位,由其結果求得數平均分子量。 <聚醚酯酪胺之重量比率> 複合纖維製造時可藉由齒輪泵調節條件藉此加以控制 ,但亦可以(7)中記載之方法爲準對形成複合纖維之聚 醯胺部分、聚酯部分進行NMR測定,藉由分析其結果計 算出聚醯胺成分中或聚酯成分中之聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率 <捲縮纖維之捲縮率> 將立毛布料放置在溫度2(TC、濕度65%RH之氛圍氣 體中24小時後,自該立毛布料取出捲縮纖維A,且測定 49/50mNx9x總特克斯(tex) (100mg/de)荷重下之絲長 度L0,卸除重量1分鐘後測定49/50mNx9x4/1000x總特克 斯(0.4mg/de )荷重下之絲長度L1。接著將該絲放置於溫 度20°C '濕度90%RH之氛圍氣體中24小時後’測定 49/50mNx9x總特克斯(100mg/de)荷重下之絲長度 L0’, 卸除重量 1分鐘後測定49/50mN><9x4/1000x總特克斯( 0.4mg/de)荷重下之絲長度L1’。 以下列之計算式自上述測定之數値計算出乾燥時之捲 縮率(DC)、吸濕時之捲縮率(HC)以及吸濕時與乾燥 時之捲縮率差。 乾燥時之捲縮率 DC(%)={ ( L0-L1 ) /L0 } X 1〇〇 -124- 201009148 吸濕時之捲縮率 HC(%) ={ (L0,-L1,)/L0’} χΙΟΟDifference in shrinkage ratio between moisture absorption and drying (%) = HC-DC Φ <Thickness change rate> After the cloth is placed in an environment of temperature 20 ° C and humidity 65% RH for 24 hours, it is cut from the cloth. A small piece of 30 cm x 30 cm (n number = 5). Next, the thickness (TD) of the cloth after drying for 24 hours in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH was measured using an ultra-high precision laser displacement meter (Model LC-2400 manufactured by KEYENCE Corporation). Next, an ultra-high-precision laser displacement gauge (model LC-2400 manufactured by KEYENCE Corporation) was used to measure the thickness of the fabric after being placed at a temperature of 2 (TC, humidity 90% RH for 24 hours) as the thickness at the time of moisture absorption. (TW) Next, the following formula is used to calculate the rate of change in thickness. In addition, the average 値 of the number of η is obtained. The thickness change rate [%] = ( (TW-TD ) / TD ) Χ 100 < anti-transparency > After placing the cloth in an environment of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, a small piece of 3 0 cm × 3 0 cm (n number = 5) was cut from the cloth. Then, the cloth was covered with -119-201009148 On the white paper of the printed black character, the ease of reading the text is evaluated as the transparency at the time of drying in the following three grades. Level 3································································· The first grade·· character can be read. On the other hand, the cloth is blown with a mist, and evenly sprayed until the moisture content of the cloth is 100% by weight relative to the weight of the fabric, and evaluated as the wet prevention in the same manner as described above. Transparency. [Example 5] In a conventional method, spinning Nylon 6 (Ny6) having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.1 and a polyether ester decylamine (polyamidamine (a) portion) added at a temperature of 290 ° C and a spinning speed of 1 000 m/min The average molecular weight is 15 00, the number average molecular weight of the ethylene oxide adduct (b) is 2000, and the relative viscosity is 2.2). The phthalic acid copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate particles (interpolymerization of isophthalic acid) The ratio was 〇.5 mol%, IV = 0.65), which was spun, and then stretched at an extension temperature of 60 ° C and a stretching ratio of 2.5 times without stretching, followed by heat setting at 130 ° C to obtain a filament. The polyethylene terephthalate blended with the polyether ester decylamine was joined into a side-by-side type in a weight ratio of 50:50 to obtain a 56 dtex/24 fil crimped composite fiber. Next, the above composite fiber was used ( Without boiling water treatment, no shrinkage. No filature), the above composite fiber and 56 dtex/72 fil general polyethylene terephthalate multi-fiber-120 using a double-twist circular knitting machine with a 28-gauge needle. - 201009148 Silk false twisted processing wire (fiber B) is braided into a braided structure as shown in Figure 1. At 130 ° C, the dyeing process is carried out at a holding time of 15 minutes (dyeing into a fluorescent white which is particularly problematic in preventing transparency), and the potential crimping property of the composite fiber is visualized as the crimped fiber A. The water-absorbent processing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) in a ratio of 2 ml/liter with respect to the dyeing liquid was subjected to the same bath treatment at the same time as the dyeing process, thereby imparting a water-absorbent processing agent to the knitted fabric. Next, the circular braid was subjected to dry heat final setting at a temperature of 160 °C. In the braid, the cross section in the thickness direction is as shown in Fig. 2. One layer (Z layer) is composed only of fibers B, and the other layer (Y layer) is composed only of crimped fibers A, and the Z layer and the Y layer are partially joined. The surface of the knitted fabric viewed from the side of the Y layer is as shown in FIG. 3, and the Y layer and the Z layer are connected in a lattice shape, and the four corner portions of the unjoined γ layer other than the lattice are shrunk when moisture is absorbed. The four corner portions of the Z layer located on the four corner portions of the above-mentioned Y layer become convex portions and together exhibit unevenness to increase the thickness. The knitted fabric has a thickness change rate of 87% at the time of drying and moisture absorption, and a decrease in transparency (level 3) when it is wet. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2. Then, after the T-shirt (sports clothing) is obtained by using the knitted fabric, the transparency at the time of sweating is reduced, which is preferable. [Example 6] A general-purpose polyethylene terephthalate false twisting machine of 56 dtex/72 fil used in Example 5 was carried out using a 28-gauge needle-warp-knit flat knitting machine, and the rear shuttle was fully worn -121 - 201009148 In the yarn (fiber B), the composite fiber (fiber A) used in Example 5 was set in 8 to 8 outlets on the middle shuttle, and the same composite fiber (fiber A) was set on the front shuttle in 8 to 8 output, and the shuttle was later 1〇-12, 中梭10-12-23-34-45-56-67-78-89-87-76-65-54-43-32-21, front shuttle 89-87-76-65-54 -43-32-21-1 0-12-23-34-45-56-67-78 The organization of the machine, the number of stitches on the machine 60 rows of needles / 2.54cm, the conditions are compiled into the velvet-jing Editing. Next, the knitted fabric was subjected to dyeing modification as in Example 5. In the knitted fabric, the cross section in the thickness direction is composed of a portion (Z portion) composed only of the crimped fibers B and a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fibers A and B, as shown in Fig. 4 . The surface of the knitted fabric is as shown in Fig. 5. The X portion has a rhombic pattern and is continuous with the entire knitted fabric. When wet, the intermediate portion (Z portion) of the rhombic pattern becomes a convex portion and exhibits irregularities to increase the thickness. In the knitted fabric, the rate of change in thickness during drying and moisture absorption was 113%, and it was also found to reduce the transparency during wetting. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2 [Comparative Example 3] In place of the use of the polyethylene terephthalate polyfilament false twist processing yarn (fiber B) used in Example 5, instead of the composite fiber used in Example 5 (fiber A) The knitted fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 had a thickness change ratio of 0% at the time of drying and moisture absorption, and increased transparency at the time of wetting, and was not satisfactory. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2. -122- 201009148 [Table 2] Table 2 Example 5 Example ό Comparative Example 3 Winding rate of silk in cloth [%] When dry (DC) 67 65 71 When absorbing moisture _ 79 78 71 Poor (HC-DC) 12 13 0 When the thickness is dry [mm] 0.82 0.70 0.89 When moisture absorption [mm] 1.53 1.49 0.89 Rate of change [%] 87 113 0 When the barrier is dry, the level 3, the level 3, the level 3, the level 3, the level 3, the level 1 or lower, The invention of the above 29-3 is explained in detail by way of examples, but the invention is not limited thereto. Further, each physical property in the examples was measured by the following method. <Intrinsic viscosity (IV) > For polyethylene terephthalate, a sample was quantitatively measured, and the solvent was determined by using an o-chlorophenol at 35 ° C according to a conventional method. In the case of nylon 6, a mass mixed solvent such as phenol/tetrachloroethane was used in the same manner, and the measurement was carried out at 30 °C. <Number average molecular weight> The number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) portion having a carboxyl group having a number average molecular weight of 500 to 5,000 and the ethylene oxide adduct (b) portion of the bisphenol is a sample to be measured It was dissolved in a mass mixed solvent such as deuterated trifluoroacetic acid/deuterated chloroform, and NMR was measured. From the results of the measurement, the repeating unit of each -123-201009148 portion was specified, and the number average molecular weight was determined from the results. <Weight ratio of polyether ester tyramine> The composite fiber can be controlled by gear pump adjustment conditions, but the method described in (7) can be used to form a polyamine component of the composite fiber. The polyester portion was subjected to NMR measurement, and the weight ratio of the polyether ester decylamine in the polyamide component or the polyester component was calculated by analyzing the result < crimping ratio of the crimped fiber> 2 (24 hours after the TC, humidity 65% RH atmosphere gas, the crimped fiber A was taken out from the standing cloth, and the wire length L0 under the load of 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) was measured, The yarn length L1 at a load of 49/50 mNx9x4/1000x total tex (0.4 mg/de) was measured after removing the weight for 1 minute. The wire was then placed in an atmosphere of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours. After 'measuring the length L0' of the 49/50mNx9x total tex (100mg/de) load, measuring the weight of 49/50mN after removing the weight for 1 minute><9x4/1000x total tex (0.4mg/de) load The length of the lower wire L1'. Calculate the crimp ratio (DC) during drying from the above-mentioned number 値The shrinkage ratio (HC) during moisture absorption and the shrinkage rate during moisture absorption and drying. The crimp ratio DC (%) = { ( L0-L1 ) / L0 } X 1〇〇-124- during drying 201009148 Crimping rate HC(%) ={ (L0,-L1,)/L0'} when absorbing moisture
吸濕時與乾燥時之捲縮率差(%) =HC-DC <厚度變化率> 將布料放置於溫度2(TC、濕度65%RH之環境下24小 時後’自該布料裁剪30cmx30cm之小片(η數=5)。接著 ,使用超高精密雷射變位計(KEYENCE公司製造之型號 φ LC_240〇 )測定在溫度20°c、濕度65%RH環境下放置24 小時後之布料乾燥時之厚度(TD)。接著,使用超高精密 雷射變位計(KEYENCE公司製造之型號LC-2400 )測定 該布料在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH環境下放置24小時後之 厚度作爲吸濕時之厚度(TW )。接著,以下式計算出厚 度變化率。另外,求得η數爲5之平均値。Difference in shrinkage ratio between moisture absorption and drying (%) = HC-DC <Thickness change rate> After placing the fabric at a temperature of 2 (TC, humidity 65% RH for 24 hours, 'cut 30cm x 30cm from the fabric The small piece (n number = 5). Next, the cloth was dried after being placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours using an ultra-high precision laser displacement meter (model φ LC_240 制造 manufactured by KEYENCE Corporation). Thickness of time (TD). Next, the thickness of the cloth after being placed in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours was measured using an ultra-high precision laser displacement gauge (Model LC-2400 manufactured by KEYENCE Corporation). Thickness (TW) at the time of moisture absorption. Next, the thickness change rate was calculated by the following formula. Further, the average 値 of η was found to be 5.
厚度變化率〔%〕= ( ( TD-TW ) /TD ) xlOO φ * <假撚捲縮加工絲之捲縮率> - 將供試驗用之纖絲絲條捲繞在周長1.125m之檢尺機 之周圍,調製乾纖度爲3 333dtex之絞紗。 將上述絞紗懸吊在尺規板之吊釘上,在其下方附加 5.9cN ( 6gr )之初期荷重,進而於附加588cN ( 600gr )之 荷重時測定絞紗長度L0。隨後,立即自上述絞紗卸除荷 重,自尺規板之吊釘取下,使該絞紗浸漬在沸水中30分 鐘,展現捲縮。自沸水中取出經沸水處理後之絞紗,以濾 -125- 201009148 紙吸除絞紗中所含之水分,且於室溫下風乾24小時。將 經過風乾之絞紗懸吊在尺規板之吊釘上,且於下方附加 5 8 8cN ( 600g〇之荷重,1分鐘後測定絞紗之長度Lla, 隨後自絞紗卸除荷重,且於1分鐘後測定絞紗之長度L2a 。以下式計算出供試驗用纖絲絲條之捲縮率(CP )。 CP ( % ) = { ( L 1 a-L2a ) /L0 } χ 1 00 〔實施例7〕 以習知方法,在紡絲溫度290 °C、紡絲速度1 000m/ min下將固有黏度(IV)爲1.1之尼龍6( Ny 6 )、及添加 有40重量%之聚醚酯醯胺(聚醯胺(a)部分之數平均分 子量15 00,環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均分子量 2000,相對黏度2.2)之間苯二甲酸共聚合之聚對苯二甲 酸乙二酯顆粒(間苯二甲酸共聚合比例爲0.5莫耳%, IV = 0.65)加以紡絲,接著不捲取而以延伸溫度6〇°C、延 伸倍率2.5倍延伸,接著在13CTC下熱定型獲得絲狀。將 尼龍6與聚醚酯醯胺摻合而成之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯以重 量比爲5 0 : 5 0之方式接合成並列型,獲得84dtex/24fil之 複合纖維。 接著,使用上述複合纖維(未經沸水處理,未展現捲 縮。無撚絲)作爲絨毛用絲條。另一方面,使用 U0dtex/48fil之一般聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯多纖絲假撚加工 絲(捲縮率20% )作爲底組織部用絲條,且使用24機號 -126- 201009148 針之沉降片絨毛圓編機,編成毛圈絨編物。 接著,在溫度130°C,維持時間15分鐘下進行染色加 工,使複合纖維之潛在捲縮性能顯現化,成爲捲縮纖維A 。此時,藉由將相對於染液爲2毫升/升之比例之吸水加 " 工劑(聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯-聚乙二醇共聚物)在染色加 工之同時進行同浴處理,賦予編物吸水加工劑。接著,在 '溫度160°C下對該毛圈絨編物進行乾熱最終定型1分鐘, φ 所得毛圏絨編物(立毛布料)之密度爲經編34橫列針數 /2.54cm,緯編36直列針數/2.54cm。 該毛圈絨編物中,厚度方向之剖面係如圖6所示,絨 毛部分僅以捲縮纖維A構成,底組織部分係以捲縮纖維A 與纖維B構成,相較於乾燥時吸濕時的該捲縮纖維A之捲 縮增加。該編物之評價結果如表3所示,爲因吸濕使厚度 減少、可期待有於出汗時之暑熱感抑制效果者。 接著,使用該毛圈絨編物獲得運動用衣料穿著後,出 汗時編物之厚度減小且可減低暑熱感。 - 〔實施例8〕 實施例7使用之編物經染色加工後藉由進行起毛加工 獲得割絨編物,隨後,如實施例7進行乾熱最終定型。所 得編物之密度爲經編32橫列針數/2.5 4cm,緯編37直列 針數 /2.54cm。 該編物中,厚度方向之剖面係如圖7所示般,起毛部 分僅以捲縮纖維A構成,主要部分係以捲縮纖維A與纖 -127- 201009148 維B構成,相較於乾燥時吸濕時該捲縮纖維A之捲縮增加 。該編物之評價結果如表3所示,爲因吸濕使厚度減少而 可期待有出汗時之暑熱感抑制效果者。 〔比較例4〕 除使用沸水收縮率爲30%之高收縮類型之聚對苯二甲 酸乙二酯多纖絲84dtex/24fil (纖維B)代替實施例7中 使用之複合纖維以外,餘如實施例7般獲得之編物之評價 @ 結果如表3所示,爲乾燥時與吸濕時之漏度無變化,無法 期待出汗時之暑熱感抑制效果者。 實施例7 實施例8 比較例4 乾燥時(DC) 58 56 45 布料中絲之捲縮率[%] 吸濕時(HC) 75 71 45 差(HC-DC) 17 15 0 乾燥時[mm] 2.53 3.24 2.52 厚度 吸濕時[mm] 1.84 2.07 2.52 變化率[%] 27 36 0 以下,以實施例詳細說明上述34-3 8之本發明,但本 發明並不受該等任何之限制。而且,實施例中之各物性爲 以下述方法測定者。 <固有黏度(IV ) > -128- 201009148 對於聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯,係定量計量樣品’溶劑使 用鄰-氯酚,依循慣用方法在3 5 °C下求得。對於尼龍6則 同樣地使用苯酚/四氯乙烷之等質量混合溶劑’在30 °C下 進行測定。 <數平均分子量> * 兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子量500〜5,000之聚醯胺 φ (a)部分及雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均 分子量係將測定樣品溶解於氘化三氟乙酸/氘化氯仿之等 質量混合溶劑中,且測定NMR。自該測定結果,特定出各 部分之重複單位,由其結果求得數平均分子量。 <聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率> 複合纖維製造時可藉由齒輪泵調節條件藉此加以控制 ,但亦可以(7)中記載之方法爲準對形成複合纖維之聚 醯胺部分、聚酯部分進行NMR測定,藉由分析其結果計 φ 算出聚醯胺成分中或聚酯成分中之聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率 <捲縮纖維之捲縮率> 將立毛布料放置在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之氛圍氣 體中24小時後,自該立毛布料取出捲梭纖維A,且測定 49/50mNx9x總特克斯(tex) (100mg/de)荷重下之絲長 度L0,卸除重量1分鐘後測定49/50mNx9x4/100〇x總特克 斯(0.4mg/de)荷重下之絲長度L1。接著將該絲放置於溫 -129- 201009148 度20°C、濕度90%RH之氛圍氣體中24小時後,測定 49/50mNx9x總特克斯(100mg/de)荷重下之絲長度LO’, 卸除重量 1分鐘後測定49/50mNx9x4/100〇x總特克斯( 0.4mg/de)荷重下之絲長度L1’。 以下列之計算式自上述測定之數値計算出乾燥時之捲 縮率(DC)、吸濕時之捲縮率(HC)以及吸濕時與乾燥 時之捲縮率差。Thickness change rate [%] = ( ( TD - TW ) / TD ) xlOO φ * < false twist crimping processed yarn crimping rate > - Winding filaments for testing are wound around a circumference of 1.125m Around the gauge machine, a skein of 3 333 dtex dry fineness is prepared. The skein was suspended from the shackle of the ruler plate, and an initial load of 5.9 cN (6 gr ) was attached thereto, and the skein length L0 was measured at a load of 588 cN (600 gr ). Subsequently, the load was immediately removed from the above skein, and the skein was removed from the ruler plate, and the skein was immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes to exhibit curling. The skein after boiling water treatment was taken out from the boiling water, and the water contained in the skein was sucked off by filtering -125-201009148 paper, and air-dried at room temperature for 24 hours. Hang the air-dried skein on the slat of the ruler plate, and add 5 8 8cN (load of 600g 下方) to the bottom. After 1 minute, measure the length Lla of the skein, then remove the load from the skein, and After 1 minute, the length L2a of the hank was measured. The following formula was used to calculate the crimp ratio (CP) of the test filaments. CP ( % ) = { ( L 1 a-L2a ) / L0 } χ 1 00 [Implementation Example 7] A nylon 6 (Ny 6 ) having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.1 and a polyether ester of 40% by weight were added at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C and a spinning speed of 1 000 m/min by a conventional method. The polyamine (polyammonium (a) part of the number average molecular weight of 15 00, the ethylene oxide adduct (b) part of the number average molecular weight of 2000, the relative viscosity of 2.2) between the phthalic acid copolymerized poly-p-phenylene Ethylene formate particles (0.5 mole % of isophthalic acid copolymerization, IV = 0.65) were spun and then stretched at an extension temperature of 6 ° C and a stretching ratio of 2.5 times without coiling, followed by 13 CTC. The heat setting is obtained as a filament. The polyethylene terephthalate blended with nylon 6 and polyether ester decylamine is bonded in a weight ratio of 50:50. In the column type, a composite fiber of 84 dtex/24 fil was obtained. Next, the above conjugate fiber (not subjected to boiling water treatment, which did not exhibit crimping. No crepe) was used as a yarn for fluff. On the other hand, a general pair of U0dtex/48fil was used. Ethylene phthalate multifilament false twisted silk (20% crimping rate) used as a yarn for the bottom tissue section, and the use of 24 gauge-126-201009148 needle sinker fluff circular knitting machine, knitted into a loop pile Next, the dyeing process was carried out at a temperature of 130 ° C for 15 minutes, and the potential crimping property of the conjugate fiber was visualized to become the crimped fiber A. At this time, it was 2 ml / with respect to the dye solution. The ratio of the water absorption plus the agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) is treated in the same bath at the same time as the dyeing process to impart a water-absorbent processing agent to the fabric. Then, at a temperature of 160° The terry woven fabric was dry-heated and finally set for 1 minute, and the density of the velvet woven fabric (hair cloth) obtained by φ was 34 strokes of the warp knitting/2.54 cm, and the number of needles of the weft knitting 36 was 2.54 cm. In the loop pile velvet, the section in the thickness direction As shown in Fig. 6, the pile portion is composed only of the crimped fibers A, and the bottom portion of the structure is composed of the crimped fibers A and the fibers B, and the crimping of the crimped fibers A is increased as compared with the moisture absorption upon drying. As shown in Table 3, the result of the evaluation is that the thickness is reduced by moisture absorption, and the heat sensation suppressing effect at the time of sweating can be expected. Next, the woven fabric is used to obtain the sports clothing, and the sweat is knitted. The thickness was reduced and the heat sensation was reduced. - [Example 8] The woven fabric used in Example 7 was subjected to dyeing processing to obtain a cut pile fabric, and then subjected to dry heat final setting as in Example 7. The density of the resulting fabric is a warp knitting 32-row stitch/2.5 4 cm, and a weft knitting 37 straight stitch/2.54 cm. In the braid, the cross-section in the thickness direction is as shown in Fig. 7, and the raised portion is composed only of the crimped fibers A, and the main portion is composed of the crimped fibers A and the fibers -127-201009148 dimension B, compared to the drying. The crimping of the crimped fiber A increases when wet. As shown in Table 3, the results of the evaluation of the knitted fabrics are those in which the heat-suppressing effect at the time of sweating is expected to be reduced due to the decrease in thickness due to moisture absorption. [Comparative Example 4] Except that a polyethylene terephthalate polyfilament 84 dtex/24 fil (fiber B) having a high shrinkage type of boiling water shrinkage of 30% was used instead of the conjugate fiber used in Example 7, Evaluation of the composition obtained in Example 7 @ The results are shown in Table 3. There is no change in the leakage degree during drying and moisture absorption, and the effect of suppressing the heat sensitivity during sweating cannot be expected. Example 7 Example 8 Comparative Example 4 Drying (DC) 58 56 45 Winding rate of silk in cloth [%] When absorbing moisture (HC) 75 71 45 Poor (HC-DC) 17 15 0 When drying [mm] 2.53 3.24 2.52 Thickness moisture absorption [mm] 1.84 2.07 2.52 Rate of change [%] 27 36 0 Hereinafter, the invention of the above 34-3 8 will be described in detail by way of examples, but the invention is not limited thereto. Further, each physical property in the examples was measured by the following method. <Intrinsic viscosity (IV) > -128- 201009148 For polyethylene terephthalate, a quantitative measurement sample 'solvent using o-chlorophenol was obtained according to a conventional method at 35 ° C. In the case of nylon 6, a mass mixed solvent such as phenol/tetrachloroethane was used in the same manner as measured at 30 °C. <Number average molecular weight> * The number average molecular weight of the polyamine derivative φ (a) having a carboxyl group number average molecular weight of 500 to 5,000 at both ends and the ethylene oxide adduct (b) portion of the bisphenol group will be The measurement sample was dissolved in a mass mixed solvent such as trifluoroacetic acid/deuterated chloroform, and NMR was measured. From the results of the measurement, the repeating unit of each part was specified, and the number average molecular weight was determined from the result. <Weight ratio of polyether ester decylamine> The composite fiber can be controlled by gear pump adjustment conditions, but the method described in (7) can be used to form the polyamine component of the conjugate fiber. The polyester portion was subjected to NMR measurement, and the weight ratio of the polyether ester guanamine in the polyamide component or the polyester component was calculated by analyzing the result φ. The crimp ratio of the crimped fiber was set. After 24 hours in an atmosphere of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH, the winding fiber A was taken out from the standing cloth, and the length L0 of the yarn under the load of 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) was measured. After removing the weight for 1 minute, the yarn length L1 under a load of 49/50 mNx9x4/100 〇x total tex (0.4 mg/de) was measured. Then, the wire was placed in an atmosphere gas of temperature -129-201009148 degree 20 ° C and humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours, and then the wire length LO' of the 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) load was measured. The filament length L1' at a load of 49/50 mNx9x4/100〇x total tex (0.4 mg/de) was measured after 1 minute of weight. The shrinkage ratio (DC) at the time of drying, the crimp ratio (HC) at the time of moisture absorption, and the difference in the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption and drying were calculated from the above-mentioned number of calculus by the following calculation formula.
乾燥時之捲縮率 DC(%) ={ (L0-L1) /L0} xlOO 吸濕時之捲縮率 HC ( %) = { ( L0’-L1’)/L0’ } χΙΟΟ 吸濕時與乾燥時之捲縮率差(%) =HC-DC <厚度變化率> 將布料放置於溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之環境下24小 時後,自該布料裁剪30cm X 30cm之小片(η數=5)。接著 ,使用超高精密雷射變位計(KEYENCE公司製造之型號 LC-2400 )測定在溫度2(TC、濕度65%RH環境下放置24 小時後之布料乾燥時之厚度(TD)。接著,使用超高精密 雷射變位計(KEYENCE公司製造之型號LC-2400 )測定 該布料在溫度20°C、濕度90%RH環境下放置24小時後之 厚度作爲吸濕時之厚度(TW)。接著,以下式計算出厚 度變化率。另外,求得η數爲5之平均値。Crimping rate DC (%) ={ (L0-L1) /L0} xlOO Crimping rate during moisture absorption HC ( %) = { ( L0'-L1') / L0' } 吸 When absorbing moisture Difference in crimp ratio during drying (%) = HC-DC <Thickness change rate> After the cloth was placed in an environment of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, a small piece of 30 cm X 30 cm was cut from the cloth. (η number = 5). Next, the thickness (TD) of the cloth after drying for 24 hours in a temperature of 2 (TC, humidity 65% RH environment) was measured using an ultra-high-precision laser displacement meter (model LC-2400 manufactured by KEYENCE Corporation). The thickness of the cloth after standing for 24 hours in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH was measured using a super high-precision laser displacement meter (Model LC-2400 manufactured by KEYENCE Co., Ltd.) as the thickness (TW) at the time of moisture absorption. Next, the thickness change rate was calculated by the following formula, and the average 値 of the number of η was found to be 5.
厚度變化率〔%〕= ( ( TD-TW ) /TD ) xlOO -130- 201009148 <假撚捲縮加工絲之捲縮率> 將供試驗用之纖絲絲條捲繞在周長1.125m之檢尺機 之周圍,調製乾纖度爲3 3 33dtex之絞紗。 將上述絞紗懸吊在尺規板之吊釘上,在其下方附加 5.9cN ( 6gr)之初期荷重,進而於附加5 88cN ( 600gr)之 荷重時測定絞紗長度L0。隨後,立即自上述絞紗卸除荷 重,自尺規板之吊釘取下,使該絞紗浸漬在沸水中30分 鐘,展現捲縮。自沸水中取出經沸水處理後之絞紗,以濾 紙吸除絞紗中所含之水分,且於室溫下風乾24小時。將 經過風乾之絞紗懸吊在尺規板之吊釘上,且於下方附加 5 88cN ( 60 0gr )之荷重,1分鐘後測定絞紗之長度Lla, 隨後自絞紗卸除荷重,且於1分鐘後測定絞紗之長度L2a 。以下式計算出供試驗用纖絲絲條之捲縮率(CP )。 CP ( %) = { ( Lla-L2a) /L0 } χ100 〔實施例9〕 以習知方法,在紡絲溫度 290 °C 、紡絲速度 lOOOm/min下將固有黏度(IV)爲1.1之尼龍6( Ny6)、 及添加有40重量%之聚醚酯醯胺(聚醯胺(a)部分之數 平均分子量15 00,環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均分 子量2000,相對黏度2.2)之間苯二甲酸共聚合之聚對苯 二甲酸乙二酯顆粒(間苯二甲酸共聚合比例爲0.5莫耳% • 131 - 201009148 ’ ΐν = 0·65)加以紡絲’接著不捲取而以延伸溫度60°C、 延伸倍率2.5倍延伸,接著在13(TC下熱定型獲得絲狀。 將尼龍6與聚醚酯醯胺摻合而成之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯以 重量比爲50 : 50之方式接合成並列型,獲得84dtex/24fil 之複合纖維。 接著’使用上述複合纖維(未經沸水處理,未展現捲 縮。無撚絲)作爲連結部用絲條。另一方面,使用 1 10dteX/48fil之一般聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯多纖絲假撚加工 · 絲(捲縮率24% )作爲底組織部用絲條,且依循特開 2002-23 5264號公報之圖2中所記載之編組織圖,編成三 層構造布料。Thickness change rate [%] = ( ( TD - TW ) / TD ) xlOO -130 - 201009148 < false twist crimping processed yarn crimping rate > Winding filaments for testing are wound around a circumference of 1.125 Around the metering machine, a skein of dryness of 3 3 33 dtex is prepared. The skein was suspended from the shackle of the ruler plate, and an initial load of 5.9 cN (6 gr) was attached thereto, and the skein length L0 was measured at a load of 5 88 cN (600 gr). Subsequently, the load was immediately removed from the above skein, and the skein was removed from the ruler plate, and the skein was immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes to exhibit curling. The skein after boiling water treatment was taken out from the boiling water, the moisture contained in the skein was sucked off with a filter paper, and air-dried at room temperature for 24 hours. Hang the air-dried skein on the slat of the ruler plate, and add a load of 5 88cN ( 60 0gr ) to the bottom. After 1 minute, measure the length Lla of the skein, then remove the load from the skein, and The length of the skein L2a was measured after 1 minute. The crimping ratio (CP) of the test filaments was calculated by the following formula. CP ( %) = { ( Lla-L2a) / L0 } χ 100 [Example 9] A nylon having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.1 at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C and a spinning speed of 1000 m/min by a conventional method. 6(Ny6), and the addition of 40% by weight of polyetheresteramine (the number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) moiety is 1,500, and the number average molecular weight of the ethylene oxide adduct (b) is 2000, relative Viscosity 2.2) Polyethylene terephthalate particles copolymerized with phthalic acid (co-polymerization ratio of isophthalic acid is 0.5 mol% • 131 - 201009148 'ΐν = 0·65) to be spun] The coiling was extended at an extension temperature of 60 ° C and a stretching ratio of 2.5 times, followed by heat setting at 13 (TC) to obtain a filament. Polyethylene terephthalate obtained by blending nylon 6 with a polyether ester decylamine The composite fibers were joined in a weight ratio of 50:50 to obtain a composite fiber of 84 dtex/24 fil. Next, the above-mentioned composite fiber (not subjected to boiling water treatment, which did not exhibit crimping. No twist) was used as the yarn for the joint portion. On the other hand, the use of 1 10dteX/48fil general polyethylene terephthalate multifilament false twist processing silk (roll 24%) as a unit with the ground structure yarns, knitting structures and FIG follow of FIG 2002-23 Publication Laid-Open No. 5264 disclosed 2, the three-layer structure knitted fabric.
接著,在溫度130 °C,維持時間15分鐘下進行染色加 工’使複合纖維之潛在捲縮性能顯現化,作爲捲縮纖維A 。此時,藉由將相對於染液爲2毫升/升之比例之吸水加 工劑(聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯-聚乙二醇共聚物)在染色加 工之同時進行同浴處理,賦予編物吸水加工劑。接著,在 Q 溫度160°C下對該毛圈絨編物行乾熱最終定型1分鐘。所 ‘ 得三層構造布料之密度爲經絲3 8橫列針數/ 2 · 5 4 c m,緯絲 - 48直列針數/2.54cm。 該編物之評價結果列於表4中,爲滿足因吸濕而厚度 減少者。接著,使用該三層構造編物獲得運動用衣料穿著 後,出汗時編物之厚度減小而可減低暑熱感。 〔比較例5〕 -132- 201009148 除使用一般之84dtex/36fil之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯多 纖絲假撚加工絲(捲縮率1 5% )代替實施例9中使用之複 合纖維以外,餘如實施例9般。所得編物之評價結果如表 4所示,爲乾燥時與吸濕時之厚度無變化,無法期待出汗 時之暑熱感抑制效果者。 〔表4〕 實施例9 比較例5 _時_ 61 73 布料中絲之捲縮率[%] 吸濕時(HC) 75 73 差(HC-DC) 15 0 乾燥時[mm] 2.50 2.31 厚度 吸濕時[mm] 1.97 2.31 變化率[%] 21 0 以下,以實施例詳細說明上述39-44之本發明,但本 發明並不受該等任何之限制。而且,實施例中之各物性爲 以下述方法測定者。 <固有黏度(IV) > 對於聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯,係定量計量樣品,溶劑使 用鄰-氯酚,依循慣用方法在35 °C下求得。對於尼龍6則 同樣地使用苯酚/四氯乙烷之等質量混合溶劑,在30°C下 進行測定。 -133- 201009148 <數平均分子量> 兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子量5 00〜5,000之聚醯胺 (a)部分及雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均 分子量係將測定樣品溶解於氘化三氟乙酸/氘化氯仿之等 質量混合溶劑中,且測定NMR。自該測定結果,特定出各 部分之重複單位,由其結果求得數平均分子量。 <聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率> 複合纖維製造時可藉由齒輪泵調節條件藉此加以控制 ,但亦可以(7)中記載之方法爲準對形成複合纖維之聚 醯胺部分、聚酯部分進行NMR測定,藉由分析其結果計 算出聚醯胺成分中或聚酯成分中之聚醚酯醢胺之重量比率 <布料中之絲捲縮率> 將布料放置在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之氛圍氣體中 24小時後,自該布料裁剪30cmx30cm之小片(η數=5) 。接著,自各小片取出因吸濕使捲縮量變化之絲(改質聚 酯與聚醯胺之並列型複合纖維)’且測定49/50mNx9x總 特克斯(tex) (100mg/de)荷重下之絲長度L0,卸除重 量 1分鐘後測定49/50mNx9x4/1000x總特克斯(〇.4mg/de )荷重下之絲長度L1。接著將該絲放置於溫度2 0 °C、濕 度90%RH之氛圍氣體中24小時後,測定49/50mNx9x總 特克斯(lOOmg/de)荷重下之絲長度L0’,卸除重量1分 -134- 201009148 鐘後測定 49/50mNx 9x4/1 000 x總特克斯(0.4mg/de)荷重 下之絲長度L 1 ’。 以下列之計算式自上述測定之數値計算出乾燥時之捲 縮率(DC)、吸‘濕時之捲縮率(HC)以及吸濕時與乾燥 * 時之捲縮率差。 « 乾燥時之捲縮率 DC(%) = { (L0-L1) /L0} χΙΟΟ φ 吸濕時之捲縮率 HC(%) = { (LO’-Ll,)/L0’} χΙΟΟNext, the dyeing process was carried out at a temperature of 130 ° C for 15 minutes to maintain the potential crimping property of the conjugate fiber as the crimped fiber A. At this time, the water-repellent processing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) in a ratio of 2 ml/liter with respect to the dyeing liquid was subjected to the same bath treatment at the same time as the dyeing process, giving the knitted fabric Water absorption process agent. Next, the loop pile fabric was dry-heated at a Q temperature of 160 ° C for 1 minute. The density of the three-layer construction fabric is the number of needles in the warp 3 8 courses / 2 · 5 4 c m, and the number of stitches in the weft - 48 in-line / 2.54 cm. The results of the evaluation of the knitted fabric are shown in Table 4, in order to satisfy the decrease in thickness due to moisture absorption. Then, by using the three-layer structure to obtain a sports clothing, the thickness of the knitted fabric is reduced when sweating, and the heat sensation can be reduced. [Comparative Example 5] -132- 201009148 In addition to the conventional 84 dtex/36 fil polyethylene terephthalate multifilament false twisted textured yarn (winding ratio of 1 5%), instead of the composite fiber used in Example 9, The rest is as in the case of Example 9. As shown in Table 4, the results of the evaluation of the obtained knitted fabrics were such that the thickness at the time of drying and the moisture absorption did not change, and the heat-suppressing effect at the time of sweating could not be expected. [Table 4] Example 9 Comparative Example 5 _hour _ 61 73 Winding rate of the yarn in the fabric [%] When absorbing moisture (HC) 75 73 Poor (HC-DC) 15 0 When drying [mm] 2.50 2.31 Thickness suction When wet [mm] 1.97 2.31 Change rate [%] 21 0 Hereinafter, the invention of the above 39-44 will be described in detail by way of examples, but the invention is not limited thereto. Further, each physical property in the examples was measured by the following method. <Intrinsic viscosity (IV) > For polyethylene terephthalate, a sample was quantitatively measured, and a solvent was obtained by using o-chlorophenol at 35 ° C according to a conventional method. In the case of nylon 6, a mass mixed solvent such as phenol/tetrachloroethane was used in the same manner, and the measurement was carried out at 30 °C. -133- 201009148 <Number average molecular weight> The average number of polyamines (a) having a carboxyl group number average molecular weight of 00 to 5,000 at both ends and the ethylene oxide adduct (b) portion of bisphenols Molecular weight The measurement sample was dissolved in a mass mixed solvent such as trifluoroacetic acid/deuterated chloroform, and NMR was measured. From the results of the measurement, the repeating unit of each part was specified, and the number average molecular weight was determined from the result. <Weight ratio of polyether ester decylamine> The composite fiber can be controlled by gear pump adjustment conditions, but the method described in (7) can be used to form the polyamine component of the conjugate fiber. The polyester portion was subjected to NMR measurement, and the weight ratio of the polyether ester decylamine in the polyamide component or the polyester component was calculated by analyzing the result < silk shrinkage ratio in the cloth> After 24 hours in an ambient gas of °C and a humidity of 65% RH, a small piece of 30 cm x 30 cm (n number = 5) was cut from the cloth. Next, the filaments (the side-by-side type composite fiber of modified polyester and polyamine) which changed by the moisture absorption were taken out from each small piece, and the load of 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) was measured. The length L0 of the yarn was measured, and the length L1 of the yarn under the load of 49/50 mNx9x4/1000x total tex (〇.4 mg/de) was measured after removing the weight for 1 minute. Then, the wire was placed in an ambient gas at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours, and then the wire length L0' of the 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) load was measured, and the weight was removed by 1 minute. -134- 201009148 After the clock, the length L 1 ' of the wire under the load of 49/50mNx 9x4/1 000 x total tex (0.4mg/de) was measured. The shrinkage ratio (DC) at the time of drying, the crimp ratio (HC) at the time of moisture absorption, and the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption and drying * were calculated from the above-mentioned number of calculus by the following calculation formula. « Crimping rate during drying DC(%) = { (L0-L1) /L0} χΙΟΟ φ Crimping rate during moisture absorption HC(%) = { (LO'-Ll,)/L0’} χΙΟΟ
吸濕時與乾燥時之捲縮率差(%) =HC-DC <厚度變化率> 將布料放置於溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之環境下24小 時後,自該布料裁剪30cmx30cm之小片(η數=5)。接著 ’使用超高精密雷射變位計(KEYENCE公司製造之型號 LC-2400 )測定在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH環境下放置24 φ 小時後之布料乾燥時之厚度(TD)。接著,使用超高精密 ' 雷射變位計(KEYENCE公司製造之型號LC-2400 )測定 - 該布料在溫度2(TC、濕度90%RH環境下放置24小時後之 厚度作爲吸濕時之厚度(TW)。接著,以下式計算出厚 度變化率。另外,求得n數爲5之平均値。 厚度變化率〔%〕= ( ( TD-TW ) /TD ) χΙΟΟ 〔實施例1 0〕 -135- 201009148 以習知方法,在紡絲溫度290°C、紡絲速度l〇〇〇m/ min下將固有黏度(IV)爲1.1之尼龍6( Ny6 )、及添加 有40重量%之聚醚酯醯胺(聚醯胺(a)部分之數平均分 子量1 5 00,環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均分子量 2000,相對黏度2.2)之間苯二甲酸共聚合之聚對苯二甲 酸乙二酯顆粒(間苯二甲酸共聚合比例爲0.5莫耳%, IV = 0.65)加以紡絲,接著不捲取而以延伸溫度6(TC、延 伸倍率2.5倍延伸,接著在130°C下熱定型獲得絲狀。將 尼龍6與聚醚酯醯胺摻合而成之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯以重 量比爲5 0 : 5 0之方式接合成並列型,獲得56dtex/24fil之 捲縮複合纖維。 另一方面,調製酸成分由莫耳比93/7之對苯二甲酸 及間苯二甲酸組成,二醇成分由乙二醇組成,且具有相對 黏度1.45之共聚合聚酯後,使該共聚合聚酯樹脂熔融紡 絲,且以3 500m/分鐘之捲取速度捲取,製造部分配向未 延伸共聚合聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯作爲纖維B。使該未延伸 多纖絲絲條在延伸裝置之溫度65°C之第一輥與溫度75t 之第二輥之間,未施以熱定型,而以延伸倍率:1.4倍延 伸,獲得84dteX/24fil之非捲縮共聚合聚酯纖絲絲條(沸 水收縮率30%)。 接著,利用上述複合纖維(未經沸水處理,未展現捲 縮。無撚絲)與纖維B,使用28機號針之雙梳櫛圓編機 ,編成如圖9所示之編組織之編物。 接著,在溫度13〇°C,維持時間15分鐘下對該編物進 -136- 201009148 行染色加工,使複合纖維之潛在捲縮性能顯現化,作爲捲 縮纖維A。此時,藉由將相對於染液爲2毫升/升比例之吸 水加工劑(聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯-聚乙二醇共聚物)在染 色加工之同時進行同浴處理,賦予編物吸水加工劑。接著 ' ,在溫度160°C下對該編物進行乾熱最終定型一分鐘。The difference in crimp ratio between moisture absorption and drying (%) = HC-DC <thickness change rate> After the cloth was placed in an environment of temperature 20 ° C and humidity 65% RH for 24 hours, 30 cm x 30 cm was cut from the cloth. Small pieces (η number = 5). Next, the thickness (TD) of the cloth after drying for 24 φ hours in a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH was measured using an ultra-high-precision laser displacement meter (Model LC-2400 manufactured by KEYENCE Corporation). Next, it was measured using an ultra-high-precision 'laser displacement meter (Model LC-2400 manufactured by KEYENCE Corporation) - the thickness of the cloth after being placed at a temperature of 2 (TC, humidity 90% RH for 24 hours as the thickness at the time of moisture absorption) (TW) Next, the thickness change rate is calculated by the following equation. Further, the average 値 of the number of n is 5. The thickness change rate [%] = ((TD-TW) / TD ) 〔 [Example 1 0] - 135- 201009148 Nylon 6 (Ny6) having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.1 and a concentration of 40% by weight at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C and a spinning speed of 10 μm/min by a conventional method The condensation of phthalic acid decylamine (the number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) part is 1 500 00, the number average molecular weight of the ethylene oxide adduct (b) part is 2000, the relative viscosity is 2.2). Ethylene terephthalate particles (inter-isophthalic acid copolymerization ratio of 0.5 mol%, IV = 0.65) were spun, and then unwound and extended at an extension temperature of 6 (TC, extension ratio of 2.5 times, followed by Heat setting at 130 ° C to obtain a filament. Polyethylene terephthalate blended with nylon 6 and polyether ester decylamine in a weight ratio For the 50:50 method, it is joined into a side-by-side type to obtain a 56 dtex/24 fil crimped composite fiber. On the other hand, the adjusted acid component is composed of a molar ratio of 93/7 of terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid, After the alcohol component is composed of ethylene glycol and has a copolymerized polyester having a relative viscosity of 1.45, the copolymerized polyester resin is melt-spun, and is taken up at a take-up speed of 3 500 m/min to produce a partial alignment without extension. Polymeric polyethylene terephthalate was used as the fiber B. The unstretched multifilament yarn was placed between the first roll at a temperature of 65 ° C and a second roll at a temperature of 75 t without heat setting. On the other hand, a stretching ratio of 1.4 times was used to obtain a non-crimped copolymerized polyester filament yarn of 84 dteX/24 fil (boiling water shrinkage ratio of 30%). Next, the above composite fiber was used (no boiling treatment, no curling was exhibited). Non-twisted wire) and fiber B, using a double-twist circular knitting machine with a 28-gauge needle, braided into a knitted fabric as shown in Fig. 9. Next, at a temperature of 13 ° C, the holding time is 15 minutes. In-136- 201009148 dyeing process to make the composite crimping performance Visualized as a crimped fiber A. At this time, by dyeing a water-absorbent processing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) in a ratio of 2 ml/liter with respect to the dye liquor At the same time, the same bath treatment was carried out to impart a water-absorbent processing agent to the knitted fabric. Then, the knitted fabric was subjected to dry heat at a temperature of 160 ° C for final setting for one minute.
該編物中,厚度方向之剖面係如圖10所示,一層(Z '層)僅以纖維B構成,另一層(Y層)僅以捲縮纖維A構 _ 成,Z層與Y層經部分連結。 fp 自Y層側觀看之針織面料表面係如圖11所示,成爲 Y層與Z層以格子狀連結,吸濕時該格子以外之未結接之 Y層四個角部分爲凸起之狀態。該四個角部分因吸濕而收 縮之結果,沒有凸起部分,編物整體成平整且厚度減少。 該編物中,乾燥時與吸濕時之厚度變化率爲33%。使 用該編物做成T恤(運動用衣料)並穿著後,爲滿足出汗 時之暑熱感減少者。評價結果列於表5。 # ' 〔實施例1 1〕 . 使用28機號針之經絨-經平編織機,後梭上滿穿實施 例10中使用之B,且於中梭上以8進8出設定實施例10 中使用之複合纖維,亦同樣於前梭上以8進8出設定複合 纖維(纖維A),且以後梭10-12,中梭10- 12-23-34-45-56-67-78-89-87-76-65-54-43-32-21,前梭 89-87-76-65-54· 43-32-2 1 -1 0- 1 2-23-34-45-56-67-78 之編組織,機上橫列針 數60橫列針數/2_54cm之編條件編成經絨-經平編物。接 -137- 201009148 著,如實施例10般使該針織面料進行染色修飾。 該編物中,厚度方向之剖面係如圖1 2所示’ $ 84dtex/24fil之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯多纖絲纖維(纖維B )構成之部分(Z部分)及以捲縮纖維A及纖維 部分(Y部分)構成。編物表面係如圖13所示, 爲菱形花紋狀且於編物全體上連續,乾燥時,該菱形花紋 部分(Y部分)成爲凸部而展現凹凸,但吸濕後Y部分收 縮之結果,編物整體平整且厚度減少。該編物中,乾燥時 與吸濕時之厚度變化率爲36%。使用該編物做成T恤(運 動用衣料)並穿著後,爲滿足出汗時之暑熱感減少者。評 價結果列於表5。 〔比較例6〕 除使用56dtex/24fil之聚酯捲縮加工絲(沸水收縮率 1 0% ’捲縮率1 5% )代替捲縮纖維A以外,餘如實施例1 〇 相同之方法獲得之針織面料之評價結果如表5所示,乾燥 時與吸濕時之厚度變化率爲0%,並無變化。 -138- 201009148 〔表5〕 表5 實施例1〇 實施例11 比較例6 布料中絲之捲縮率[%] 乾燥時(DC) 61 59 68 吸濕時(HC) 76 72 68 差(HC-DC) 15 13 0 厚度 乾燥時〔irnn〕 0.97 1.04 0.95 吸濕時〔mm〕 0.65 0.67 0.95 變化率〔%〕 33 36 0 以下,以實施例詳細說明上述45-57之本發明,但本 發明並不受該等任何之限制。而且,實施例中之各物性爲 以下述方法測定者。 〈固有黏度(IV ) > 對於聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯,係定量計量樣品,溶劑使 用鄰-氯酚,依循慣用方法在3 5 °C下求得。對於尼龍6則 同樣地使用苯酚/四氯乙烷之等質量混合溶劑,在30 °C下 進行測定。 <數平均分子量> 兩末端具有羧基之數平均分子量500〜5,000之聚醯胺 (a)部分及雙酚類之環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均 分子量係將測定樣品溶解於氘化三氟乙酸/氘化氯仿之等 質量混合溶劑中,且測定NMR。自該測定結果,特定出各 部分之重複單位,由其結果求得數平均分子量。 -139- 201009148 <聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率> 複合纖維製造時可藉由齒輪栗調節條件藉此加以控制 ,但亦可以(7)中記載之方法爲準對形成複合纖維之聚 醯胺部分、聚酯部分進行NMR測定,藉由分析其結果計 算出聚醯胺成分中或聚酯成分中之聚醚酯醯胺之重量比率 <布料中之絲捲縮率> 將布料放置在溫度20°C、濕度65%RH之氛圍氣體中 24小時後,自該布料裁剪30cmx30cm之小片(η數=5) 。接著,自各小片取出因吸濕使捲縮量變化之絲(改質聚 酯與聚醯胺之並列型複合纖維),且測定49/50mNx9x總 特克斯(tex ) ( lOOmg/de )荷重下之絲長度L0,卸除重 量1分鐘後測定49/50mNx9x4/1 000x總特克斯(〇.4mg/de )荷重下之絲長度L1。接著將該絲放置於溫度20°C、濕 Θ 度90%RH之氛圍氣體中24小時後,測定49/50mNx9x總 特克斯(lOOmg/de)荷重下之絲長度L0’,卸除重量1分 - 鐘後測定 49/50mNx9 x4/1 000 x 總特克斯(0.4mg/de)荷 重下之絲長度L 1 ’。 以下列之計算式自上述測定之數値計算出乾燥時之捲 縮率(DC)、吸濕時之捲縮率(HC)以及吸濕時與乾燥 時之捲縮率差。 -140- 201009148In the braid, the section in the thickness direction is as shown in Fig. 10. One layer (Z' layer) is composed only of fiber B, and the other layer (Y layer) is composed only of crimped fiber A, and the Z layer and the Y layer are partially formed. link. Fp The surface of the knitted fabric viewed from the side of the Y layer is as shown in Fig. 11. The Y layer and the Z layer are connected in a lattice shape, and the four corner portions of the unjoined Y layer other than the lattice are convex when moisture is absorbed. . As a result of the shrinkage of the four corner portions due to moisture absorption, there is no convex portion, and the braid is flat and the thickness is reduced. In this weave, the rate of change in thickness during drying and moisture absorption was 33%. When the t-shirt (sports material) is used and worn, the heat is reduced in order to satisfy the feeling of sweating when sweating. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5. # ' [Example 1 1]. Using a 28-gauge needle-warp-spinning weaving machine, the rear shuttle is full of the B used in the embodiment 10, and is set to 8 in 8 out on the middle shuttle. In the composite fiber used in the same, the composite fiber (fiber A) is also set on the front shuttle with 8 in 8 out, and then the shuttle 10-12, the middle shuttle 10-12-23-34-45-56-67-78- 89-87-76-65-54-43-32-21, front shuttle 89-87-76-65-54· 43-32-2 1 -1 0- 1 2-23-34-45-56-67 The organization of -78, the number of stitches on the machine is 60, the number of stitches is 2_54cm, and the knitting condition is compiled into a velvet-warp. The knitted fabric was dyed and modified as in Example 10, in the same manner as in Example 10. In the braid, the section in the thickness direction is a portion (Z part) composed of polyethylene oxide polyethylene fiber (fiber B) of '84 dtex/24 fil as shown in Fig. 12 and a crimped fiber A And the fiber part (Y part) is composed. As shown in Fig. 13, the surface of the braid is in the shape of a rhombus pattern and is continuous on the entire knitted fabric. When dried, the rhombic portion (Y portion) becomes a convex portion and exhibits irregularities, but the Y portion shrinks after moisture absorption, and the overall composition Flat and reduced in thickness. In this weave, the rate of change in thickness during drying and moisture absorption was 36%. When the t-shirt (moving material) is used as the clothing, the wearer is reduced in order to satisfy the heat sensitivity during sweating. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5. [Comparative Example 6] The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that a 56 dtex/24 fil polyester crimped yarn (boiling water shrinkage of 10% 'retraction ratio of 15%) was used instead of the crimped fiber A. The evaluation results of the knitted fabric are shown in Table 5. The change rate of the thickness during drying and moisture absorption was 0%, and there was no change. -138- 201009148 [Table 5] Table 5 Example 1 〇 Example 11 Comparative Example 6 Winding rate of silk in cloth [%] When dry (DC) 61 59 68 When absorbing moisture (HC) 76 72 68 Poor (HC -DC) 15 13 0 When the thickness is dry [irnn] 0.97 1.04 0.95 When moisture absorption [mm] 0.65 0.67 0.95 Change rate [%] 33 36 0 Hereinafter, the invention of the above 45-57 will be described in detail by way of examples, but the present invention It is not subject to any of these restrictions. Further, each physical property in the examples was measured by the following method. <Intrinsic Viscosity (IV) > For polyethylene terephthalate, a quantitative sample was measured, and the solvent was obtained by using o-chlorophenol at a conventional temperature of 35 ° C. In the case of nylon 6, a mass mixed solvent such as phenol/tetrachloroethane was used in the same manner, and the measurement was carried out at 30 °C. <Number average molecular weight> The number average molecular weight of the polyamine (a) portion having a carboxyl group having a number average molecular weight of 500 to 5,000 and the ethylene oxide adduct (b) portion of the bisphenol is a sample to be measured It was dissolved in a mass mixed solvent such as deuterated trifluoroacetic acid/deuterated chloroform, and NMR was measured. From the results of the measurement, the repeating unit of each part was specified, and the number average molecular weight was determined from the result. -139- 201009148 <Weight ratio of polyether ester decylamine> The composite fiber can be controlled by gear wheel conditioning conditions, but the method of (7) can be used to form a composite fiber. The guanamine moiety and the polyester moiety were subjected to NMR measurement, and the weight ratio of the polyether ester decylamine in the polyamide component or the polyester component was calculated by analyzing the result <the filament shrinkage ratio in the fabric> After being placed in an atmosphere of a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, a small piece of 30 cm x 30 cm (n number = 5) was cut from the cloth. Next, the filaments which change the amount of curl due to moisture absorption (the side-by-side type composite fiber of modified polyester and polyamine) are taken out from each small piece, and the load of 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) is measured. The length L0 of the yarn was measured, and the length L1 of the yarn under the load of 49/50 mNx9x4/1 000x total tex (〇.4 mg/de) was measured after removing the weight for 1 minute. Then, the wire was placed in an atmosphere of a temperature of 20 ° C and a wetness of 90% RH for 24 hours, and then the wire length L0' of the 49/50 mNx9x total tex (100 mg/de) load was measured, and the weight was removed. The length L 1 ' of the wire under the load of 49/50 mNx9 x4/1 000 x total tex (0.4 mg/de) was determined after minutes. The shrinkage ratio (DC) at the time of drying, the crimp ratio (HC) at the time of moisture absorption, and the difference in the crimp ratio at the time of moisture absorption and drying were calculated from the above-mentioned number of calculus by the following calculation formula. -140- 201009148
乾燥時之捲縮率 DC(%) ={ (LO-Ll) /L〇} χίοο 吸濕時之捲縮率 HC(%) ={ (LO’-Ll,)/L〇,} xl00 吸濕時與乾燥時之捲縮率差(%) =HC-DC <面積變化率> 準備5塊經向30cm、緯向30cm之割紋布料樣品,在 溫度20°C、濕度65%RH下放置24小時以上調濕後,於經 參 向20cm、緯向20cm各施加印記。隨後,使上述樣品在溫 度20°C、濕度90%RH下同樣放置24小時以上調濕後,測 定經緯向各印記間之長度(η數=5 ),且由下式計算出面 積變化率。 面積變化率(%) = ( (SD-SW) /SD) χΙΟΟ 其中,SD:溫度20°C ’濕度65%RH下經向X緯向之 _ 印記內面積(400cm2) ,SW:溫度20°C,濕度90%RH下 ' 經向X緯向之印記內面積。 〔實施例1 2〕 以習知方法,在紡絲溫度290°C、紡絲速度l〇〇〇m/ min下將固有黏度(IV)爲1·1之尼龍6( Ny6)、及添加 有40重量%之聚醚酯醯胺(聚醯胺(a)部分之數平均分 子量15 00,環氧乙烷加成物(b)部分之數平均分子量 2000,相對黏度2.2)之間苯二甲酸共聚合之聚對苯二甲 -141 - 201009148 酸乙二酯顆粒(間苯二甲酸共聚合比例爲0.5莫耳% ’ IV = 0.65 )加以紡絲,接著不捲取而以延伸溫度60°c、延 伸倍率2.5倍延伸,接著在130°C下熱定型獲得絲狀。將 尼龍6與聚醚酯醯胺摻合而成之聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯以重 量比爲50 ·· 50之方式接合成並列型,獲得56dtex/24fil之 複合纖維。 接著,使用28機號針之單一圓編織機,且使用上述 複合纖維(未經沸水處理,未展現捲縮。無撚絲),與上 述複合纖維及22dtex/lfil之一般聚胺基甲酸酯彈性絲(纖 維C)在編織機上對齊(裸纖插入),且依循圖14中所 示之編組織圖,編成平針組織布料。此時,上述聚胺基甲 酸酯彈性絲係在拉伸倍率2.0倍下拉伸編成。 對該編物進行鬆弛(溫度60°C,時間1分鐘)及預定 型(溫度180°C,時間1分鐘)後,在溫度130°C,維持 時間15分鐘下進行染色加工,使複合纖維之潛在捲縮性 能顯現化,作爲捲縮纖維A。此時,藉由將相對於染液爲 2毫升/升之比例之吸水加工劑(聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯-聚 乙二醇共聚物)在染色加工之同時進行同浴處理,賦予編 物吸水加工劑。接著,在溫度160 °C下對該編物進行乾熱 最終定型1分鐘。 所得編物之評價結果列於表6中,爲吸濕時面積變小 之編物。使用該編物做成T恤(運動用衣料)並穿著後, 穿著時尺寸寬裕而容易穿著,但出汗時T恤尺寸變小,T 恤對身體有服貼性而感覺到運動性提升。 -142- 201009148 〔實施例1 3〕 使用28機號針之單一圓編織機,且以圖15中所示之 編組織將實施例12中使用之複合纖維與3 3dtex/3 6fil之一 般聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯多纖絲假撚加工絲(纖維B )以及 22dteX/lfil之一般聚胺基甲酸酯彈性絲(纖維C)編成編 物。此時,上述聚胺基甲酸酯彈性絲係在拉伸倍率2.0倍 下拉伸編成。 接著,如實施例12般對該編物進行同樣之染色修飾 加工。 所得編物之評價結果列於表6,爲吸濕時面積變小之 編物。使用該編物做成T恤(運動用衣料)並穿著後,穿 著時尺寸寬鬆容易穿著,但出汗時T恤尺寸變小,τ恤對 身體有服貼性而感覺到運動性提升。 〔實施例1 4〕 使用28機號針之經絨-經平編織機,於前梭上滿穿實 施例13中使用之纖維B( 3 3dtex/3 6fil),且於中梭1梭 上以9進19出設定實施例12中使用之複合纖維A( 56dtex/24fil),中梭2梭上以14出9進5出設定上述複 合纖維A,後梭上滿穿實施例12中使用之彈性纖維C( 22dtex/lfil),且以前梭:10-23,中梭 1 : 1 0-1 2-23-34-45-56-67-78-89-910-1011.1112-1213-1314-1415·1514-1413-1312-1211-1110-109-98-87-76-65-54-43-32-21 φ梭 2 -143- 201009148 :15 14-1413-13 12-121 1-1 1 10-109-98-87-76-65-54-43-32-21-10-23-34-45-56-67-78-89-910-1011-1112-1213-1314-1415 ,後 梭:12-10之編組織編成經絨-經平編織編物。此時,上述 聚胺基甲酸酯彈性絲係在拉伸倍率2.0倍下拉伸編成。接 著,如實施例12般使該編物進行染色修飾加工。 所得編物之評價結果列於表6,爲吸濕時面積變小之 編物。使用該編物做成T恤(運動用衣料)並穿著後,穿 著時尺寸寬鬆而容易穿著,但出汗時T恤尺寸變小,T恤 對身體有服貼性而感覺到運動性提升。 〔比較例7〕 使用28機號針之單一圓編織機,在編織機上將複合 纖維A對齊且如實施例12般編成平針織組織布料。接著 ’如實施例12般將該編物進行同樣之染色修飾加工。 所得編物之評價結果列於表6,爲吸濕時面積變小之 編物。然而,使用該編物做成T恤(運動用衣料)並穿著 後,穿著時尺寸寬鬆而容易穿著,且出汗時T恤尺寸未變 小,但由於編物中不含彈性纖維,對身體之服貼性不足而 無法獲得滿意之運動性提升。 〔比較例8〕 除使用56dtex/24fil之一般聚對苯二甲酸多纖絲假撚 加工絲代替實施例1 2中之複合纖維a以外,如實施例1 2 般編成圓編物。接著,如實施例12般對該編物進行染色 -144- 201009148 修飾加工。 所得編物之評價結果列於表6,爲吸濕時面積變+ $ 編物。使用該編物做成T恤(運動用衣料)並穿著後,& 汗前後T恤尺寸無變化,對身體之服貼性無變化,無 得運動性之提升。 〔表6〕 實施例12 實施例13 實施例14 比較例7 比較例8 布料中絲之捲 縮率[%] 乾燥時(DC) 63 61 58 61 54 吸濕時(HC) 76 72 72 75 54 差(HC-DC) 13 11 14 14 0 布料之面積 乾燥時 400 400 400 400 400 吸濕時 371 374 386 361 400 變化率[%] 7.3 6.5 3.5 9.8 0.0 產業上利用之可能性 ❹ 依據本發明,使用吸濕時捲縮率提高(外觀長度變短 ' )之纖維,提供吸濕時透氣性降低之布料以及使用該布料 - 之纖維製品。此種纖維製品穿著時,可獲得於下雨或下雪 時藉由透氣性降低而提高保暖性,又可抑制水朝衣服內之 浸入之效果。 又,依據本發明,可獲得因吸濕而提高防透明性之布 料。此種布料使用作爲外衣用衣料、內襯用衣料及運動用 衣料等時,可獲得即使於流汗時或下雨時弄濕衣服時,亦 可抑制使肌膚或內衣透明之效果。 -145- 201009148 再者’依據本發明,爲於立毛部含有捲縮纖維之立毛 布料,藉由吸濕時上述捲縮纖維之捲縮率可逆地增加而使 立毛高度變小,其結果,可提供藉由使布料厚度降低而降 低布料之保暖性,於出汗時得以減低暑熱感之起毛布料以 及使用該起毛布料之纖維製品,其工業價値極大。 又’依據本發明,係由表裏之底組織部與連結該表裏 底組織部之連結部所構成之三層構造布料,藉由於該連結 ‘ 部使用吸濕時捲縮率可逆地增加之捲縮纖維而使布料厚度 翁 變小’其結果,可提供布料之保暖性降低,於出汗時可減 低暑熱感之三層構造布料以及使用該布料之纖維製品,其 工業價値極大。 再者’依據本發明,可獲得因吸濕厚度得以減小之布 料。此種布料當使用於外衣用衣料、內襯用衣料及運動用 衣料時’於出汗時之暑熱感少,其工業利用價値極高。 又’依據本發明,可獲得出汗時貼身性得以提高之布 料。該種布料若使用於運動用衣料或內襯用衣料時,可獲 〇 得於穿著時穿脫容易且具有運動時之貼身性、運動支撐性 優異之機能之效果,其工業利用價値極高。 - 【圖式簡單說明】 圖1爲本發明相關之布料之編組織圖之一例。 圖2爲顯示本發明相關布料之剖面之一例之模式圖, 其中(1)爲乾燥時,(2)爲濕潤時。 圖3爲顯示本發明相關布料之一例之模式圖。 -146- 201009148 圖4爲顯示本發明相關布料之剖面之一例之模式圖, 其中(1)爲乾燥時,(2)爲濕潤時。 圖5爲顯示本發明相關布料之一例之模式圖。 圖6爲模式性顯示本發明立毛布料(毛圈絨)之圖。 圖7爲模式性顯示本發明立毛布料(割絨)之圖。 圖8爲模式性顯示本發明之三層構造布料之圖。 圖9爲本發明相關布料之編組織圖之—例。 圖10爲顯示本發明相關之布料剖面之—例之模式圖 ’其中(1 )爲乾燥時,(2 )爲濕潤時。 圖11爲顯示本發明相關布料之一例之模式圖。 圖12爲顯示本發明相關布料之剖面之一例之模式圖 ’其中(1 )爲乾燥時,(2 )爲濕潤時。 圖13爲顯示本發明相關布料之一例之模式圖。 圖14爲本發明相關布料之編組織圖之一例。 圖15爲本發明相關布料之編組織圖之一例。 〇 圖16爲顯示本發明相關布料之一例之模式圖。 ' 【主要元件符號說明】 21 : Z 層 22 :連接部分 23 : Y 層 24 :與Z層連接之部分 25 :未與Z層連接之部分 26 : Z部分 -147- 201009148 27 : X部分 28 : Z部分 29 : X部分 51 : Z 層 52 :連接部分 _ 53 : Y 層 54:與Z層連接之部分 55:未與Z層連接之部分 馨 56 : Y部分 57 : Z部分 58 : Z部分 59 : Y部分 61 : Z部分 62 : Y部分 1 ~ 2 4 :給絲順序 C :圓筒側 © D :針盤側 〇:針盤邊針織 X :圓筒側針織 ¥ :圓筒側集圈 a :複合纖維 b :聚酯多纖絲 A :複合纖維(纖維A) 56dtex/24filCrimping rate DC (%) ={ (LO-Ll) /L〇} χίοο The shrinkage rate during moisture absorption HC(%) ={ (LO'-Ll,)/L〇,} xl00 Hygroscopic Difference between the shrinkage rate at the time of drying and drying (%) = HC-DC < Area change rate> Five woven fabric samples of 30 cm in the warp direction and 30 cm in the weft direction were prepared at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH. After being left to be conditioned for 24 hours or more, an imprint was applied to each of 20 cm in the sensation and 20 cm in the latitudinal direction. Subsequently, the sample was allowed to stand at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 90% RH for 24 hours or more, and then the length between the marks in the warp and weft directions (η number = 5) was measured, and the area change rate was calculated from the following formula. Area change rate (%) = ((SD-SW) /SD) χΙΟΟ where SD: temperature 20 ° C 'humidity 65% RH under the direction X latitude _ imprinted inner area (400 cm 2 ), SW: temperature 20 ° C, Humidity 90% RH 'The area inside the imprint of the X latitude. [Example 1 2] Nylon 6 (Ny6) having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.1 was prepared at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C and a spinning speed of 10 μm/min by a conventional method. 40% by weight of polyether ester decylamine (polyammonium (a) part of the number average molecular weight of 15 00, ethylene oxide adduct (b) part of the number average molecular weight of 2000, relative viscosity of 2.2) between phthalic acid Copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate-141 - 201009148 Ethylene glycol diester particles (inter-isophthalic acid copolymerization ratio of 0.5 mol% 'IV = 0.65) were spun, then not coiled to extend temperature 60 °c The stretching ratio was extended by 2.5 times, followed by heat setting at 130 ° C to obtain a filament shape. A polyethylene terephthalate obtained by blending nylon 6 with a polyether ester decylamine was joined in a side-by-side manner in a weight ratio of 50 · · 50 to obtain a composite fiber of 56 dtex / 24 fil. Next, a single circular knitting machine using a 28 gauge needle, and using the above composite fiber (not subjected to boiling water treatment, showing no crimping. No silk), and the above composite fiber and a general polyurethane of 22 dtex/lfil The elastic yarns (fibers C) were aligned on the braiding machine (bare fiber insertion) and woven into a flat needle tissue fabric in accordance with the texture diagram shown in FIG. At this time, the above-mentioned polyurethane elastic yarn was stretched and kneaded at a draw ratio of 2.0 times. The fabric was slackened (temperature 60 ° C, time 1 minute) and predetermined type (temperature 180 ° C, time 1 minute), and then dyed at a temperature of 130 ° C for 15 minutes to make the potential of the composite fiber The crimping performance is manifested as the crimped fiber A. At this time, the water-repellent processing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) in a ratio of 2 ml/liter with respect to the dyeing liquid was subjected to the same bath treatment at the same time as the dyeing process, giving the knitted fabric Water absorption process agent. Next, the knitted fabric was dry-heated at a temperature of 160 ° C for 1 minute. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabrics are shown in Table 6, which is a knitted fabric having a small area at the time of moisture absorption. When the T-shirt (sports material) is used and worn, the size of the T-shirt is easy to wear when worn, but the size of the T-shirt is small when sweating, and the T-shirt is conformable to the body and feels sporty. - 142 - 201009148 [Example 1 3] A single circular knitting machine using a 28-gauge needle, and the general assembly of the composite fiber used in Example 12 and 3 3dtex/3 6fil was formed by the knitting shown in FIG. Ethylene phthalate multifilament false twist processing yarn (fiber B) and 22 dteX/lfil general polyurethane elastic yarn (fiber C) were knitted. At this time, the above-mentioned polyurethane elastic yarn was stretched and kneaded at a draw ratio of 2.0 times. Next, the knitted fabric was subjected to the same dyeing and finishing treatment as in Example 12. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabrics are shown in Table 6, which is a knitted fabric having a small area at the time of moisture absorption. When the t-shirt (sports material) is used and worn, it is easy to wear when worn, but the size of the T-shirt is small when sweating, and the t-shirt is docile to the body and feels sporty. [Example 1 4] The fiber B (3 3dtex/3 6fil) used in Example 13 was worn on the front shuttle using a 28-gauge needle-knit-knit flat knitting machine, and was placed on the shuttle 1 shuttle. The composite fiber A (56 dtex/24 fil) used in the example 12 was set, and the above-mentioned composite fiber A was set by 14 out of 9 in 5 shuttles on the shuttle 2 shuttle, and the shuttle was fitted with the elasticity used in the example 12 Fiber C (22dtex/lfil), and former shuttle: 10-23, medium shuttle 1: 1 0-1 2-23-34-45-56-67-78-89-910-1011.1112-1213-1314-1415· 1514-1413-1312-1211-1110-109-98-87-76-65-54-43-32-21 φ shuttle 2 -143- 201009148 :15 14-1413-13 12-121 1-1 1 10- 109-98-87-76-65-54-43-32-21-10-23-34-45-56-67-78-89-910-1011-1112-1213-1314-1415, after the shuttle: 12 The -10 is organized into a velvet-warp woven fabric. At this time, the above-mentioned polyurethane elastic yarn was stretched and kneaded at a draw ratio of 2.0 times. Then, the knitted fabric was subjected to dyeing modification processing as in Example 12. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabrics are shown in Table 6, which is a knitted fabric having a small area at the time of moisture absorption. When the T-shirt (sports material) is used and worn, the size is loose and easy to wear when worn, but the size of the T-shirt becomes small when sweating, and the T-shirt is conformable to the body and feels sporty. [Comparative Example 7] A composite circular fiber A was aligned on a knitting machine using a single circular knitting machine of a 28 gauge needle, and knitted into a jersey tissue fabric as in Example 12. Next, the knitted fabric was subjected to the same dyeing and finishing treatment as in Example 12. The evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabrics are shown in Table 6, which is a knitted fabric having a small area at the time of moisture absorption. However, after using the knitted fabric to make a T-shirt (sports material) and wearing it, the size is loose and easy to wear when wearing, and the size of the T-shirt is not small when sweating, but since the knitted fabric does not contain elastic fibers, the clothes for the body Insufficient fit and lack of satisfactory athleticism. [Comparative Example 8] A circular knitted fabric was knitted as in Example 12 except that a general polytrimethylene terephthalide false twisted yarn of 56 dtex/24 fil was used instead of the composite fiber a in Example 12. Next, the knitted fabric was dyed as in Example 12 -144-201009148. The results of the evaluation of the resulting fabrics are shown in Table 6, which is the area change + $ in the case of moisture absorption. After using this chock to make a T-shirt (sports material) and wearing it, there is no change in the size of the T-shirt before and after the sweat, and there is no change in the conformity of the body, and there is no improvement in exercise. [Table 6] Example 12 Example 13 Example 14 Comparative Example 7 Comparative Example 8 Winding rate of silk in cloth [%] When dry (DC) 63 61 58 61 54 When absorbing moisture (HC) 76 72 72 75 54 Poor (HC-DC) 13 11 14 14 0 When the area of the fabric is dry 400 400 400 400 400 When absorbing moisture 371 374 386 361 400 Rate of change [%] 7.3 6.5 3.5 9.8 0.0 Industrial use possibility ❹ According to the invention, When the moisture absorption is increased (the appearance length becomes shorter), the fiber having a reduced air permeability at the time of moisture absorption and the fiber product using the cloth are provided. When such a fiber product is worn, it is possible to improve the warmth retention by reducing the gas permeability when it is raining or snowing, and to suppress the effect of water infiltrating into the clothes. Further, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a cloth which is improved in moisture resistance due to moisture absorption. When such a fabric is used as a garment for outerwear, a fabric for lining, and a sportswear for sports, it is possible to suppress the effect of making the skin or underwear transparent even when the clothes are wet when sweating or raining. -145- 201009148 Further, according to the present invention, in the case where the upright portion contains the crimped fibers, the crimping rate of the crimped fibers is reversibly increased by moisture absorption, and the height of the standing hair becomes small. Providing a fabric which reduces the warmth of the fabric by lowering the thickness of the fabric, and which is capable of reducing the heat sensation during sweating and the fiber product using the raised fabric, is extremely expensive. Further, according to the present invention, the three-layer structure fabric composed of the bottom portion of the surface portion and the joint portion connecting the surface portion of the surface and the bottom portion is formed by the reversible increase of the crimp ratio when the joint portion absorbs moisture. The fiber makes the thickness of the fabric smaller. As a result, it is possible to provide a three-layer structure fabric which can reduce the heat sensation during sweating and a fiber product using the fabric, and the industrial price is extremely high. Further, according to the present invention, a cloth which is reduced in thickness due to moisture absorption can be obtained. When the fabric is used for garments for outerwear, clothing for lining, and sportswear, it has a low heat sensitivity when sweating, and its industrial use price is extremely high. Further, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a cloth having improved fit when sweating. When the fabric is used for sportswear or lining, it is easy to put on and take off, and it has the effect of being close to the body during exercise and excellent in sports support. The industrial use price is extremely high. - BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Fig. 1 is an example of an organization diagram of a fabric related to the present invention. Fig. 2 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a fabric according to the present invention, wherein (1) is dry and (2) is wet. Fig. 3 is a schematic view showing an example of a fabric related to the present invention. -146- 201009148 Fig. 4 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of the fabric of the present invention, wherein (1) is dry and (2) is wet. Fig. 5 is a schematic view showing an example of a fabric related to the present invention. Fig. 6 is a view schematically showing the rag fabric (bucket) of the present invention. Fig. 7 is a view schematically showing the woven fabric (cut velvet) of the present invention. Fig. 8 is a view schematically showing a three-layer structure fabric of the present invention. Figure 9 is an illustration of an organization diagram of a fabric related to the present invention. Fig. 10 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a fabric according to the present invention, wherein (1) is dry and (2) is wet. Fig. 11 is a schematic view showing an example of a fabric related to the present invention. Fig. 12 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a fabric according to the present invention, wherein (1) is dry and (2) is wet. Fig. 13 is a schematic view showing an example of a fabric related to the present invention. Fig. 14 is a view showing an example of the organization of the related fabric of the present invention. Fig. 15 is a view showing an example of the organization of the related fabric of the present invention. Fig. 16 is a schematic view showing an example of a fabric related to the present invention. ' [Main component symbol description] 21 : Z layer 22 : connection portion 23 : Y layer 24 : portion 25 connected to the Z layer : portion not connected to the Z layer 26 : Z portion - 147 - 201009148 27 : X portion 28 : Z portion 29: X portion 51: Z layer 52: connection portion _ 53 : Y layer 54: portion 55 connected to the Z layer: portion not connected to the Z layer 56: Y portion 57: Z portion 58: Z portion 59 : Y part 61 : Z part 62 : Y part 1 ~ 2 4 : Wire order C : Cylinder side © D : Dial side 〇 : Pinch side knitting X : Cylinder side knitting ¥ : Cylinder side ring a : Composite fiber b: Polyester multifilament A: Composite fiber (fiber A) 56dtex/24fil
B :聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯多纖絲假撚加工絲(纖維B -148- 201009148 )33dtex/36fil C :聚胺基甲酸酯彈性絲(纖維C) 22dtex/lfilB: Polyethylene terephthalate multifilament false twist processing yarn (fiber B-148-201009148) 33dtex/36fil C: polyurethane elastic yarn (fiber C) 22dtex/lfil
-149--149-
Claims (1)
Applications Claiming Priority (6)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2008038867A JP5275648B2 (en) | 2008-02-20 | 2008-02-20 | Woven and knitted fabrics and textiles with reduced breathability when moisture is absorbed |
| JP2008041399A JP5275649B2 (en) | 2008-02-22 | 2008-02-22 | Woven and knitted fabrics and textiles that have improved permeability due to moisture absorption |
| JP2008071415A JP5275654B2 (en) | 2008-03-19 | 2008-03-19 | Three-layer woven fabric and textile products |
| JP2008071414A JP5415706B2 (en) | 2008-03-19 | 2008-03-19 | Standing fabric and textile products |
| JP2008083348A JP5275657B2 (en) | 2008-03-27 | 2008-03-27 | Woven knitted fabrics and textile products whose thickness is reduced by moisture absorption |
| JP2008086362A JP5275659B2 (en) | 2008-03-28 | 2008-03-28 | Woven and knitted fabrics and textiles whose dimensions are reduced by moisture absorption |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| TW201009148A true TW201009148A (en) | 2010-03-01 |
Family
ID=40985486
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| TW098105483A TW201009148A (en) | 2008-02-20 | 2009-02-20 | Fabric and textile products |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| TW (1) | TW201009148A (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2009104607A1 (en) |
Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111270388A (en) * | 2018-12-04 | 2020-06-12 | 台湾百和工业股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing elastic three-dimensional fabric |
| CN111904239A (en) * | 2020-09-02 | 2020-11-10 | 昆山怡家居纺织有限公司 | Three-dimensional sandwich composite carpet capable of being washed and not deformed |
| CN112155271A (en) * | 2020-09-28 | 2021-01-01 | 苏州经结纬面料科技有限公司 | Breathable textile fabric and preparation process and quality inspection method thereof |
| CN112695450A (en) * | 2020-11-30 | 2021-04-23 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Lace fabric for warm-keeping clothes |
| TWI814175B (en) * | 2021-12-13 | 2023-09-01 | 財團法人紡織產業綜合研究所 | Moisture-response deforming fabric |
Families Citing this family (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR20160014587A (en) | 2013-06-05 | 2016-02-11 | 도레이 카부시키가이샤 | Polyamide woven fabric and down product using same |
| JP6753747B2 (en) * | 2016-09-16 | 2020-09-09 | Kbセーレン株式会社 | Tricot for textile-like vehicle interior materials |
Family Cites Families (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP3989883B2 (en) * | 2002-09-26 | 2007-10-10 | 帝人ファイバー株式会社 | Multicolored pile fabric with uneven pattern |
| JP4238067B2 (en) * | 2003-06-03 | 2009-03-11 | 帝人ファイバー株式会社 | Moisture sensitive crimped composite fiber |
| JP4213048B2 (en) * | 2003-07-29 | 2009-01-21 | 帝人ファイバー株式会社 | Woven and knitted fabrics with reduced porosity when wet |
| JP2005082918A (en) * | 2003-09-08 | 2005-03-31 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Double layered structural woven fabric and fiber product |
| JP2006112009A (en) * | 2004-10-15 | 2006-04-27 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Woven knitted fabric with unevenness caused by wetting, manufacturing method thereof, and textile product |
| JP2006118062A (en) * | 2004-10-19 | 2006-05-11 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Woven/knitted fabric reducing its porosity when wetted, and method for producing the same, and related textile product |
| JP2006207053A (en) * | 2005-01-26 | 2006-08-10 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Three-layer woven fabric and textile products |
| JP2007321295A (en) * | 2006-06-01 | 2007-12-13 | Teijin Ltd | Crimped conjugated fiber |
-
2009
- 2009-02-17 WO PCT/JP2009/052708 patent/WO2009104607A1/en not_active Ceased
- 2009-02-20 TW TW098105483A patent/TW201009148A/en unknown
Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111270388A (en) * | 2018-12-04 | 2020-06-12 | 台湾百和工业股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing elastic three-dimensional fabric |
| CN111904239A (en) * | 2020-09-02 | 2020-11-10 | 昆山怡家居纺织有限公司 | Three-dimensional sandwich composite carpet capable of being washed and not deformed |
| WO2022048542A1 (en) * | 2020-09-02 | 2022-03-10 | 昆山怡家居纺织有限公司 | Washable and non-deformable three-dimensional interlayer composite carpet |
| CN112155271A (en) * | 2020-09-28 | 2021-01-01 | 苏州经结纬面料科技有限公司 | Breathable textile fabric and preparation process and quality inspection method thereof |
| CN112695450A (en) * | 2020-11-30 | 2021-04-23 | 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 | Lace fabric for warm-keeping clothes |
| TWI814175B (en) * | 2021-12-13 | 2023-09-01 | 財團法人紡織產業綜合研究所 | Moisture-response deforming fabric |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO2009104607A1 (en) | 2009-08-27 |
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