JPH1112882A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To produce a woven fabric hardly causing a fluffy feeling, having body, stiffness and high resilience and suitable for an outer garment such as a suit and pants by constituting at least a part of the woven fabric out of a specific composite false twisted yarn. SOLUTION: At least two kinds of thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarns A and B are subjected to a heterogeneous heat treatment by a method such as composite false twisting by imparting temperature difference to the synthetic fiber yarns A and B by the temperature difference between hot plates 3 and 4 and carrying out the false twisting by a false twisting rotor 8, etc. The difference of the yarn lengths between the yarn A obtained through a high temperature hot plate 3 and the yarn B obtained through the low temperature hot plate 4 is 2-50%, and the length of the yarn A is longer than that of the yarn B. The composite false twisted yarn having thick and thin structure alternately changing the thickness from thick parts to thin parts at random pitchs of 0.2-20 mm along the yarn axis direction at least at a part of the single fiber constituting the yarn B is obtained. The composite false twisted yarn having 2-30 g/d initial tensile resistance degree is arranged as a warp and/or weft of the objective woven fabric, in the method for producing the woven fabric.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric composed of a composite false twisted yarn, and more particularly, to a woven fabric having a tension, a waist, and an excellent resilience suitable as an outer garment such as suits and pants. .

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art It is generally said that polyester woven fabric has fluff, lacks drapability, and lacks tension, waist and resilience as compared to wool fabric or silk fabric of natural fibers.

[0003] For this reason, various attempts have conventionally been made to impart the flexibility and high resilience of a polyester fabric to a wool fabric or a silk fabric. For example, one of the attempts is to have different characteristics such as a difference in fineness, a difference in elongation, a difference in shrinkage, and a difference in cross-sectional shape.
More than one kind of yarn is dominantly combined by composite false twisting,
This avoids the homogeneity of synthetic fibers and gives the yarn a controlled non-uniformity like natural fibers,
There are ways to improve the feel.

[0004] However, in the method of the false twisting means, the above-mentioned drawbacks have not yet been sufficiently improved.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to improve the drawbacks of the conventional false twisted yarn woven fabric, and to provide a woven fabric which is free from flickering, has tightness, high waist and high resilience.

[0006]

In order to achieve the above object, a woven fabric of the present invention has a false twist crimp and
And at least a part of a composite false twisted yarn having an initial tensile resistance of 2 to 30 g / d. Things.

[0007] The yarn length a of the yarn A is longer than the yarn length b of the yarn B, and the difference between the yarn lengths is 2 to 50%. At least a part of the single fiber constituting the yarn B has a thick and thin structure in which a thick portion and a thin portion change randomly along the yarn axis direction, and the pitch at which the thick and thin structure changes is 0.1 mm.
2 to 20 mm.

As described above, the composite false-twisted yarn is constituted by the yarn A and the yarn B having the following relationship, and the initial tensile resistance is set to 2 to 30 g / d. The fabric made of is free from flickering and can be provided with excellent high resilience.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The woven fabric of the present invention is constituted by using at least a part of a composite false twisted yarn, and the yarn constituting the composite false twisted yarn has at least a false twisted crimp. It consists of two yarns A and B. At least a portion refers to the case where all or one of the warp and the weft constituting the woven fabric is used, or the case where it is used for a part of the warp or the weft, and preferably the total amount of the yarn constituting the woven fabric Desirably, it is at least 30% by weight or more. The structure of the woven fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and any of these ternary structures such as plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave can be applied.

Thermoplastic synthetic fibers are used for at least two yarns A and B constituting the composite false twisted yarn. Examples of the thermoplastic synthetic fiber include polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, polyacryl fiber, polyethylene fiber, polypropyne fiber, polyvinyl chloride fiber, and the like. Among these, polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate are particularly preferable. Is optimal.

The yarns A and B constituting the composite false twisting yarn
Is characterized by having the following properties, which means those determined after decomposing the woven fabric of the present invention into constituent yarn units. Two yarns A and B
Lacks false twist crimping and lacks bulkiness and volume,
The fabric becomes paper-like. However, there is a problem in that if it is excessively present, flickering tends to occur or drape property tends to be insufficient.

The yarn length of the two yarns A and B is as follows:
The yarn length a of the yarn A is set to be larger than the yarn length b of the yarn B (a> b), and the yarn length difference is set to 2 to 50%, preferably 5 to 30%. ing. Since the two yarns A and B have the above-described yarn length difference from each other, the yarn A having a large yarn length is mainly located at the surface layer of the woven fabric, and the yarn B having a small yarn length is mainly occupied by the woven fabric. Since it is located in the inner layer portion, the characteristics of the yarn A of the surface layer portion of the woven fabric and the yarn B of the inner layer portion of the woven fabric can be utilized respectively by optimizing the fabric design or dyeing and finishing conditions.

In general, in the design of a woven fabric, a tactile sensation is exhibited in the surface layer portion, and the inner layer portion is stretched to impart basic performance of the woven fabric such as waist. The difference in the yarn length between the yarn A and the yarn B in the composite false twisted yarn can be provided, for example, by utilizing the difference in the supply speed of the yarn A and the yarn B or the difference in the shrinkage ratio. For example, in the case of a difference in shrinkage ratio, after weaving a woven fabric, a difference in yarn length is expressed and imparted by a difference in shrinkage due to heat treatment in a post-processing step. The composite false twisted yarn in the woven fabric increases the gap between the fibers by causing a displacement with a slight movement between the constituent yarns or the single fibers constituting the constituent yarn due to a difference in shrinkage. In addition to the bulkiness and voluminousness due to twist crimping, high resilience is further improved.

In the above-described composite false twisted yarn, the single fiber constituting the yarn B having a short yarn length has a thick portion and a thin portion in which the thick portion and the thin portion change randomly and periodically at least partially along the yarn axis direction. It has a fine structure, and the pitch between the thick portion and the thin portion along the yarn axis direction is in the range of 0.2 to 20 mm, preferably in the range of 0.3 to 12 mm. The thickness difference between the thick and thin portions is not so remarkable after false twisting, but can be made more remarkable in the heat treatment in the post-processing step. For example, a thick structure can be made obvious by the action of heat such as scouring and setting in the dyeing and finishing step of the woven fabric, and the structure can be further clarified.

As described above, the difference in fiber shape or structure due to the heat treatment in the post-processing step is increased, and the fibers are reciprocated with each other due to the appearance of false twist crimps and the change in thickness due to the partial shrinkage difference in the woven fabric. Since a gap between fibers is generated due to the displacement, a woven fabric having tension, waist, and high resilience can be obtained. If the pitch of the thick and thin structure is less than 0.2 mm or more than 20 mm, the interwoven fibers formed by the above mechanism do not sufficiently appear in the woven fabric. It becomes difficult to form a woven fabric having

The composite false twisted yarn constituting the woven fabric of the present invention is 2 to 30 g / d, more preferably 5 to 20 g / d.
Should have an initial tensile resistance of
In general, the initial tensile resistance is an index of the rigidity in the deformation of the fiber, the larger the value, the harder,
Since the hardness increases, the upper limit should be 30 g / d, more preferably 20 g / d, as described above. In addition, the lower limit is the tension of the present invention,
It is preferably at least 2 g / d, more preferably 5 g / d for stiffness and high resilience.

Further, the composite false twisted yarn constituting the woven fabric of the present invention has a moderate tension in the inner layer portion of the woven fabric, and exhibits a firmness and resilience, and a soft texture in the surface layer portion of the woven fabric. The average fineness of the single fibers constituting the yarn A is preferably larger than the average fineness of the single fibers constituting the yarn A, and the fineness of the single fibers constituting the yarn B is 2 to 10d, and the average fineness of the single fibers constituting the yarn A is large. It is desirable that the fineness of the fiber is in the range of 0.3 to 3d.

In the case where a strong tension, waist and high resilience are required in the texture of the woven fabric, a yarn B having a large single fiber fineness may be used, and it is desired to provide a soft and fine hair feeling. In this case, the single fiber fineness of the yarn A may be reduced, and the yarn A may be designed so as to have as many thin single fibers as possible in the surface layer portion of the woven fabric. For example, a method of increasing the yarn length of the yarn A with respect to the yarn B or reducing the shrinkage ratio can be exemplified.

The composite false twisted yarn having the above-mentioned properties used in the woven fabric of the present invention is prepared by heating at least one of the yarns A and B composed of at least two kinds of thermoplastic synthetic fibers. The yarn is manufactured by applying a temperature difference to the two yarns, twisting the two yarns and performing composite false twisting, and heating the lower temperature yarns by the higher temperature yarns during the composite false twisting operation.

FIG. 1 schematically shows an example of a method for producing such a composite false twisted yarn. In FIG.
The yarn A and the yarn B are supplied from the supply rollers 1 and 2, respectively, and then pass through the hot plate 3 heated to a high temperature and the hot plate 4 heated to a lower temperature than the take-up roller 9 respectively. Thereafter, the yarns are combined at the junction P via the separation guides 5 and 6, and subsequently the composite false twisting is performed through the cooling plate 7 and the false twist rotator 8. The composite false-twisted yarn after the false-twisting passes through the entanglement nozzle 10 and is entangled by pressurized air to give a convergence, and then wound up into the package 12 via the supply roller 11.

In such composite false twisting, the supply rollers 1 and 2 may be at the same speed or at different speeds, and may be set as appropriate according to the characteristics of the supply yarn and the stability of processing. . It is important that the hot plates 3 and 4 have a temperature difference, and the properties of the yarns A and B after the false twisting are determined by setting the temperature difference. As a method of setting the temperature difference, one of the hot plates may be omitted, and only one yarn may be heated, and the other yarn may not be heated.

The cooling plate 7 efficiently cools and fixes the structure provided by false twisting, and regulates the yarn path during processing.
By performing vibration prevention, etc., the action of false twisting is stabilized. However, although it is preferable to provide this cooling plate, it is not always necessary.

The heating means is not particularly limited as long as it is used in ordinary false twisting. For example,
Means such as a dry heat plate or a hollow heating tube can be used. As the false twist rotor used in the composite false twisting, any of a circumscribing type friction false twisting device, a belt nip type false twisting device, a spindle type false twisting device, and the like can be used. What is necessary is just to determine suitably according to processing conditions, such as a set false twist number.

According to the composite false twisting of the present invention, the yarns A and B given the temperature difference as described above are twisted at the joining point P. The lower-side yarn is heated by the lower-side yarn, heat is exchanged between the yarns, and the lower-temperature side yarn is non-uniformly heat-treated in the diameter direction and / or the yarn axis direction. You. At this time, heating may be uneven in the yarn axis direction due to fiber migration due to twisting.

The above-mentioned non-uniform heat treatment causes a change in the internal structure and fiber shape within the single fibers and between the single fibers in the yarn axis direction. A fine structure is formed, and a portion having a contraction difference changed in a short cycle is formed. By such a thin structure that changes randomly in a short cycle and a contraction difference that changes in a short cycle,
A two-dimensional gentle wavy crimp different from the dense three-dimensional crimp obtained by conventional false twisting can be obtained. In response to such a morphological change, a portion of the physical properties of the fiber in which the shrinkage and the Young's modulus are changed at an extremely short pitch in the yarn axis direction of the single fiber is generated.

The yarns thus heat-treated unevenly and randomly within the single fibers, between the fibers and in the direction of the yarn axis are subjected to a heat treatment in a post-processing step, for example, a wet heat treatment or a dry heat treatment after weaving, so that the difference in shape, difference in shrinkage, Since a crimp difference or the like is developed, a characteristic woven fabric can be obtained.

The yarn used in the production of the composite false twisting yarn is composed of at least two or more yarns A and B. In addition to the combination of only two yarns, three or more yarns are used. A combination of the above may be used. For example, in the case of a combination of three, all three may be provided with a temperature difference from each other, and two may be configured to increase or decrease the other one at the same temperature.

As the selection of the yarns A and B, the same or different yarns can be selected from drawn yarns, semi-drawn yarns, and undrawn yarns, and fineness, number of filaments, cross-sectional shape, dyeability, gloss, and presence or absence of twist. Those having the same or different characteristics can be arbitrarily combined and selected.

[0029]

EXAMPLES In the following examples, the ratio between the initial tensile resistance and the yarn length difference was measured by the following method. [Initial tensile resistance] According to JIS L-1090. [Ratio of yarn length difference] The woven fabric is decomposed into composite false twisting yarns constituting the yarn and a certain length is collected. Then, both ends are fixed and the yarn is separated into yarn A and yarn B. Next, the yarn length a (cm) of the yarn A and the yarn length b (cm) of the yarn B under a load of 0.1 g / d.
Was measured, and the yarn length difference c (%) was determined by the following equation.

Thread length difference c (%) = {(ab) / b} × 1
Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal polymer was melt-spun by a conventional method, and a yarn A having a cutting elongation of 85 denier and 48 filaments and a cutting elongation of 195% and a yarn B of 255 denier and 30 filaments having a cutting elongation of 205% were obtained. The yarn was produced as a semi-drawn yarn.

Next, the yarn A and the yarn B were subjected to composite false twisting using a circumscribed friction false twist device as the false twist rotor 8 in the process of FIG. The composite false twisting conditions at this time were as follows: the speeds of the supply rollers 1 and 2 and the take-off roller 9 were 205 m / min and 339 m / min, the heating temperature of the hot plate 3 was 150 ° C., and the hot plate 4 was not heated. Heat to yarn A
Was heated by the hot plate 3, and the yarn B was brought into non-contact with the hot plate 4 and allowed to run in the air to perform composite false twisting. At this time, the running yarn between the junction P and the false twist rotor 8 was sampled, and the number of false twists (times / m) was measured under a load of 0.1 g / d (denier). / M).

The obtained composite false twisted yarn has a core-sheath structure in which the yarn A has a high shrinkage, and the yarn B has a low shrinkage difference between the yarns. The strip B exhibits a thick and thin structure along the yarn axis direction, and has an average pitch of 6 mm.
Of a thick structure.

Next, 500 times /
m twist, then each with a warp yarn density of 56 yarns /
After weaving into a plain woven fabric at a weft density of 55 inches / inch and a weft density of 55 threads / inch, the greige fabric is passed through a dyeing and finishing process by a conventional method, and in the finishing process, an alkali weight loss process with a weight loss rate of 13% is performed. To give a product fabric.

When the constituent yarns (composite false twisted yarns) of the obtained product fabric were decomposed and their characteristics were measured, the following results were obtained. The constituent yarn is a yarn having a low initial tensile resistance, and yarn A and yarn B have a yarn length difference from each other,
A yarn A with a fine single yarn fineness is located in the surface layer, and a yarn B with a large single yarn fineness is located in the inner layer. The woven fabric is soft, taut, and has a waist-like, resilience-like worsted wind. Had a match.

Yarn length difference (c): 23% Form of yarn B: There is a portion having a thick and thin structure with an average pitch of 6 mm. Initial tensile resistance: 17 g / d Comparative Example 1 Using the same semi-drawn yarn as in Example 1, the yarn A and the yarn B are aligned and the hot plate 3 side (the hot plate 4 is not used) At the same time as in Example 1 except that the temperature of the hot plate 3 was set at 200 ° C. to perform false twisting.

Next, the fabric was woven in a plain weave under the same conditions as in Example 1 and dyed and finished to give a finished fabric.
The number of false twists during running and the properties of the woven fabric decomposed yarn during the false twisting were as follows. Composite false twisted yarn is a highly crimped and bulky composite yarn, and the product fabric has strong fluffiness.
He had no tension, no waist, and lacked resilience.

Number of false twists during running: 1900 turns / m Yarn length difference (c): 0 (none) Form of yarn B: No thick and thin structure is observed. Initial tensile resistance: 25 g / d

[0038]

As described above, according to the present invention, a composite false twisted yarn is formed from the yarn A and the yarn B having a specific relationship, and the initial tensile resistance of the composite false twisted yarn is adjusted. 5
By configuring the woven fabric at ３０30 g / d, it is possible to realize a woven fabric that is free from flickering, has excellent tension, and has both waist and high resilience.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of a processing step of a composite false twisting yarn used for the woven fabric of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 A, B supply yarns 1, 2 supply rollers 3, 4 hot plate 7 cooling plate 8 false twist rotator 9 take-up roller 10 entanglement nozzle 12 package P confluence point

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. A composite false-twisted yarn comprising false-twisted crimp and at least two yarns A and B having the following constitution and having an initial tensile resistance of 2 to 30 g / d. A woven fabric configured for use at least in part. The yarn length a of the yarn A is longer than the yarn length b of the yarn B, and the difference between the yarn lengths is 2 to 50%. At least a part of the single fiber constituting the yarn B has a thick and thin structure in which a thick portion and a thin portion change randomly along the yarn axis direction, and the pitch at which the thick and thin structure changes is 0.1 mm.
2 to 20 mm. 2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the average fineness of the single fibers constituting the yarn B is larger than the average fineness of the single fibers constituting the yarn A. 3. The fineness of a single fiber constituting the yarn A is 0.3 to 3d, and the fineness of a single fiber constituting the yarn B is 2
The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the woven fabric has a thickness of from 10 to 10d. 4. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the total fineness of the yarn B is larger than the total fineness of the yarn A. 5. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn A is mainly located on the surface layer of the woven fabric, and the yarn B is located on the inner layer of the woven fabric. 6. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein said composite false twisted yarn is made of polyester fiber.