JPH1112881A - Production of knitted or woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To produce a knitted or woven fabric hardly causing a fluffy feeling, having body stiffness and high resilience and suitable for an outer garment such as a suit and pants by subjecting plural yarns having temperature difference to a composite false twisting. SOLUTION: At least two yarns A and B with temperature difference imparted by the temperature difference between hot plates 3 and 4 is doubled and subjected to false twisting by a false twisting rotor 8, etc., while heating the yarn B at the lower temperature with the yarn A at the higher temperature to carry out the composite false twisting to provide a composite false twisted yarn having 15-80% shrinkage in boiling water, 1-30% self-elongation, 1-25% crimp recovery, and 1-30% difference of yarn lengths between the yarns A and B. The obtained composite false twisted yarn is subjected to true twisting, and further twist setting at 30-80 deg.C by a dry-heat or a wet-heat, and thereafter knitted or woven to provide the objective knitted or woven fabric, in the method for producing the knitted or woven fabric.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric having tension, resilience, and tightness suitable for outer garments such as suits and pants using composite false twisted yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In general, polyester fabrics are said to be disadvantageous in that they have fluff and lack drapeability and are poor in tension, waist and resilience as compared with wool fabrics or silk fabrics of natural fibers. I have.

Conventionally, from such a viewpoint, various attempts have been made to impart flexibility, high resilience, and the like to a polyester woven fabric, which a wool woven fabric or a silk woven fabric has. One example of such an attempt is to synthesize two or more yarns with different characteristics such as difference in fineness, difference in elongation, difference in shrinkage, difference in cross-sectional shape, etc. by composite false twisting and dominantly combining them. Methods have been proposed to avoid the homogeneity of fibers and to provide a controlled non-uniformity such as natural fibers.

However, in this composite false twisting method, the above-mentioned drawbacks have not yet been sufficiently improved.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the conventional false twisted yarn woven fabric, to provide a method for producing a knitted woven fabric which is free of flicker, stretched, and has high waist and high resilience. Is to provide.

[0006]

In order to achieve the above object, a method for producing a knitted fabric according to the present invention comprises the steps of: combining yarns A and B having at least two temperature differences; By performing the composite false twisting while heating the yarn B on the low temperature side by A, the boiling water shrinkage is 15 to 80%, the spontaneous elongation is 1 to 30%, and the crimp recovery is 1 to 25%. A composite false twisted yarn having a yarn length difference of 1% to 30% between the yarns A and B is provided, and the composite false twisted yarn is subjected to actual twisting and twisted with dry heat or wet heat at 30 to 80 ° C. It is characterized by setting and then weaving.

[0007] By performing composite false twisting on the yarns A and B having at least two temperature differences in this manner, the yarns A and B are different from conventional false twisted yarns in terms of boiling water shrinkage, spontaneous elongation, and crimp recovery. Obtains processed yarns with different characteristics, gives them a real twist, sets them by twisting, and then sets them into a knitted fabric, so that there is no flicker like conventional false twisted yarn fabrics, and they are tight, waist and high rebound. A knitted fabric with excellent properties can be obtained.

[0008]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION As the composite false twisting yarn used in the production of a knitted fabric in the present invention, yarns A and B having at least two temperature differences are combined, and at the same time, the yarns on the high temperature side are combined. What is obtained by a special method of performing composite false twisting while heating the low-temperature side yarn is used.
Next, a real twist is given to this composite false twisting yarn, and 30 to 8
It is twisted and set with dry heat or wet heat of 0 ° C., and a knitted fabric is to be formed.

The structure applied to the knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, in the case of a woven fabric, any of these ternary structures such as plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, and any of these changed structures can be applied. can do. The yarns A and B constituting the composite false twisted yarn are not particularly limited as long as they are thermoplastic synthetic fibers. Examples thereof include polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacryl fibers, polyethylene fibers, polypropylene fibers, and polyvinyl chloride fibers. Can be mentioned. Of these, polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate are most suitable.

The composite false twisted yarn obtained by the special method as described above has a boiling water shrinkage of 15 to 80%, a spontaneous elongation of 1 to 30%, and a crimp recovery of 1 to 25%. The two yarns A and B have a yarn length difference of 1 to 30%. The properties of such a composite false twisted yarn are important in obtaining a knitted fabric excellent in tension, stiffness and resilience, which is free from flaking which is the object of the present invention,
As described above, at least two yarns A and B are subjected to composite false twisting with a temperature difference, that is, twisted by the twisting action of the false twist rotor, and the yarn A on the high temperature side is used. It can be obtained only by performing false twisting while heating the yarn B on the low temperature side.

As described above, the high-temperature side yarn A and the low-temperature side yarn B are twisted by the twisting action of the false twisting process, so that the high-temperature side yarn A and the low-temperature side yarn B The low-temperature side yarn B is heated by the high-temperature side yarn A in the direction of the yarn axis and the diameter of the yarn, and the single fibers constituting the low-temperature side yarn B are exchanged. And a different heating portion in the yarn axis direction of the single fiber. This generates the above-described high boiling water shrinkage and spontaneous elongation, and makes it possible to obtain a difference in yarn length between the constituent yarns and a lower crimp restoring ratio as compared with a normal false twisted yarn.

The composite false twisted yarn has a boiling water shrinkage of 15 to
The high level of 80%, preferably 20 to 60%, makes it possible to shrink and generate a deep crimp when knitting and weaving on a greige machine and performing scouring or relaxing heat treatment, thereby imparting bulkiness and volume. it can.

[0013] The spontaneous elongation of the composite false twisted yarn refers to the property of elongating when a knitted fabric is shrunk or relaxed and heat-treated to shrink it, and then further heat-treated. For example, in the textile finishing process,
This is manifested when a deep woven crimp is formed by shrinking once by scouring or relaxing heat treatment and then subjected to a heat treatment at a higher temperature than the scouring or relaxing heat treatment in the intermediate setting step.

The processed yarn obtained by the composite false twisting of the present invention has a spontaneous elongation of 1 to 30% in spontaneous elongation, and in particular, the spontaneous elongation of the yarn B on the low temperature side is 1 to 30%. Is preferred. When the single fibers constituting the low-temperature side yarn B that have been subjected to random heat treatment in the false twisting process spontaneously elongate by such a post-process heat treatment, a slight misalignment occurs between the single fibers, or a woven fabric intersection point. In this case, a slight deviation occurs, which generates voids and gives the knitted fabric a soft and resilient feeling.

The composite false twisted yarn used in the present invention is:
At least two yarns A and B constituting this are 1 to 30
%. By having such a yarn length difference, the composite false twisted yarn forms a core-sheath structure, and the yarn B having a short yarn length is arranged on the core side, and the yarn A having a long yarn length is arranged on the sheath side. become. In general, in the core-sheath structure, the core yarn is stretched using a single yarn with a large fineness to give it waist and resilience. It is designed to express the tactile sensation.

The composite false twisted yarn used in the present invention is characterized by having a boiling water shrinkage of 15 to 80%. In order to express the yarn length difference as described above, the yarn on the low temperature side is particularly required. It is desirable that the boiling water shrinkage of the strip B be 15 to 80%. By setting the low-temperature side yarn B to a high heat shrinkage in this way, when the green fabric is heat-treated in the dyeing and finishing step, a yarn length difference due to a difference in shrinkage ratio between the high-temperature side yarn A and the high-temperature side yarn A A yarn having a two-layer structure of a core-sheath is formed. A yarn B having a short yarn length is mainly disposed at the center of the knitted fabric, and a yarn A having a long yarn length is formed.
Can be arranged on the surface layer.

Further, the composite false twisted yarn used in the present invention is:
Crimp restoration rate is 1 to 25%, more preferably 5 to 20%
It is. The characteristic is that the crimp restoring rate is lower than that of a normal false twisted yarn. By having such a low crimp restoring rate, the crimped form becomes a gently wavy two-dimensional crimp, and a knitted fabric having moderate bulkiness and volume is obtained. The ordinary false twisted yarn has a crimp restoring ratio higher than 25%, so that the crimp has a three-dimensional structure, and although it has excellent bulkiness when knitted into a woven fabric, it has a sponge-like shape. This causes a flickering feeling.

In the method for producing a knitted fabric according to the present invention, a composite false twisted yarn having the above-mentioned characteristics is used, and further a real twist is applied thereto. The stop set is applied. Since the composite false twisted yarn has characteristics of high shrinkage and excellent heat setting property, twist setting at the above-described low temperature is performed.

If the twist set temperature is lower than 30 ° C.,
The setting effect is small and the torque of the actual twist cannot be suppressed, and the workability and process passability during weaving and weaving are reduced.
As a result, the quality of the knitted fabric is reduced. Also,
If the temperature is higher than 80 ° C., the actual twist is excessively heat-set, so that the shrinkage of the composite false-twisted yarn is reduced, and spontaneous elongation and crimp are hardly developed. It is difficult to obtain a knitted fabric which is bulky, voluminous, and excellent in resilience, which is the object of the invention.

The twist set temperature of the actual twist is preferably 30
To 80 ° C, more preferably 40 to 65 ° C for the dry heat set, and 30 to 60 ° for the wet heat set.
It is good to be ° C. By performing the twisting set at such a temperature, the characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn used in the present invention can be maintained even after the real twist is applied.

As a twist setting method for performing the twist setting, in the case of dry heat, setting in an oven or a small room is preferable, and in the case of wet heat, setting with steam or hot water is preferable. In either method, temperature control is required to perform uniform setting.

In the present invention, the number of actual twists to be applied to the composite false twisted yarn varies depending on the target performance and application of the knitted fabric, but it is preferable to use an actual twist in the range of 100 to 3000 turns / m. it can. For example, when a soft and warm taste is required and a repulsion is required, a low actual twist number of about 500 turns / m is employed. When a refreshing feeling, drape property or resilience is required, 1500 turns / m is required. It is advisable to adopt a high number of actual twists before and after.

The means for giving actual twist is not particularly limited, and a twister generally used for general purposes may be used. For example, ring twister, Italian twister,
A double twister, a tri-twister, or the like can be used. Drawing 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a manufacturing process of a compound false twisting yarn used for manufacture of a knitted fabric of the present invention.

In FIG. 1, when the yarns A and B supplied from the supply rollers 1 and 2, respectively, are taken up between the take-up roller 9 and the hot plate 3 heated at a high temperature and the hot plate 4 heated at a low temperature. , Respectively, and the separation guides 5 and 6
And then the cooling plate 7 and the false twist rotor 8
Is subjected to composite false twisting. The processed yarn subjected to the composite false twisting is entangled by compressed air at the entanglement nozzle 10 to give a convergence property, and is wound around the package 12 via the take-off roller 11.

In such a composite false twisting step, the supply rollers 1 and 2 may be at the same speed or at different speeds, and may be appropriately adjusted in view of the characteristics of the supply yarn and the stability of the false twisting process. Just set it. In this composite false twisting step, it is necessary to give a temperature difference to the yarns A and B to be supplied. The method of giving the temperature difference is such that the yarns A and B to be supplied are heated together by giving a temperature difference. Alternatively, only one of the yarns may be heated, and the other yarn may be kept at room temperature (room temperature). What is necessary is just to have a temperature difference. In the latter method, the heating plate 4 may be not heated or the heating plate 4 may not be provided.

The heating means is not particularly limited, and a dry heating plate or a hollow heating cylinder used in ordinary false twisting can be used, and any other heating means may be used. . Of course, the heating medium is not limited. The cooling plate 7 has an operation of efficiently cooling and solidifying the structure provided by the false twisting process, and also performing a yarn path regulation, a vibration prevention, and the like at the time of the process, thereby enabling a stable process. However, this cooling plate is not always essential in the present invention.

The false twist rotor 8 used in the composite false twisting step is not particularly limited, and may be any of a known circumscribed friction false twist device, a belt nip type false twist device, and a spindle false twist device. Can be used. What is necessary is just to select suitably according to processing conditions, such as the kind of thread to supply, a processing speed, and the number of set false twists.

In the above-described composite false twisting step, the yarn A and the yarn B given the temperature difference are joined and twisted at the junction P, and after the junction P, the yarn A on the high temperature side is twisted. The yarn B on the low temperature side is heated, and heat is exchanged between the yarns in a false twisting state. That is,
The low-temperature side yarn B is heated by the high-temperature side yarn A, whereby the low-temperature side yarn B is moved in the diameter direction of the yarn and / or
Alternatively, heat treatment is performed unevenly in the yarn axis direction. In this composite false twisting step, heating is performed non-uniformly in the yarn axis direction even by fiber migration due to twisting.

Due to the heat treatment in the false twisting state, the internal structure and the fiber shape change within the single fiber and between the single fibers in the yarn axis direction. A portion having a thick and thin structure or a short-cycle contraction difference is formed. As a result, a two-dimensional gentle wavy crimp, which is different from the dense three-dimensional crimp obtained by the conventional false twisting, is obtained. Further, with regard to the fiber properties, a structure having a different shrinkage rate and a different Young's modulus at an extremely short pitch in the yarn axis direction of the single fiber can be obtained.

The yarn heat-treated nonuniformly in the single yarn, between the single yarns, and in the yarn axis direction under the false twisting state is subjected to a heat treatment in a post-process, for example, wet heat or dry heat treatment after weaving. , To express the difference in shrinkage, crimp, etc.
The characteristic knitted fabric aimed at by the present invention can be obtained by these characteristic differences.

The yarns A and B to be subjected to the composite false twisting step are:
Any of drawn yarns, semi-drawn yarns, and undrawn yarns of thermoplastic synthetic fibers may be used, and a combination of yarns having the same characteristics or a combination of yarns having different characteristics may be used. Further, it can be used irrespective of the fineness, the number of filaments, the cross-sectional shape, the dyeing property, the gloss, the presence or absence of twist, and can be used without being particularly concerned with physical properties such as high elongation and shrinkage.

The composite false twisted yarn is composed of a combination of at least two or more yarns.
In addition to a combination of books, a combination of three or more books can be used. For example, when combining three yarns, all three yarns may have a temperature difference from each other,
It is possible to combine one book at the same temperature and another at a different temperature.

[0033]

EXAMPLES The boiling water shrinkage rate, spontaneous elongation rate, yarn length difference and crimp recovery rate used in the following examples were measured by the following measuring methods. [Boiling water shrinkage rate, crimp restoration rate] According to JISL-1090.

The boiling water shrinkage of the low-temperature side yarn was measured after splitting the composite false twisted yarn into a low-temperature side yarn and a high-temperature side yarn. [Spontaneous elongation rate] A sample of the composite false twisted yarn was wound into a scallop, collected, left overnight, and then treated from normal temperature to 98 ° C at a heating rate of 2 ° C for 1 minute. For 5 minutes, remove the load and air-dry all day long L ₁
Was measured. Next, the sample was treated in an oven at 180 ° C. for 5 minutes, and the length L ₂ after cooling was measured. In this way, by using two of the measured value L ₁ and L ₂ were obtained, it was determined spontaneous elongation by the following formula.

The spontaneous elongation rate of the low-temperature side yarn is determined by dividing the composite false-twisted yarn into a low-temperature side yarn and a high-temperature-side yarn, followed by the same method as in the above composite false-twisted yarn. Was measured. The load at the time of processing was 5 mg / d, and the load at the time of measurement was 0.1 g.
/ D. Spontaneous elongation rate (%) = {(L ₂ −L ₁ ) / L ₁ } × 100 [Yarn length difference] After collecting a fixed length of the composite false twisted yarn of the sample, both ends thereof are fixed and the low temperature side is fixed. Separate into yarn and high-temperature yarn. At this time, the length a (cm) of the high-temperature side yarn and the length b (cm) of the low-temperature side yarn were measured under a load of 0.1 g / d, and the yarn length difference (% ) Was determined by the following equation.

Yarn difference (%) = {(ab) / b} × 10
Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal polymer was melt-spun by a conventional method and wound at 3000 m / min to obtain a 85-denier, 48-filament yarn A.
And a half-drawn yarn of 125 denier 18 filament yarn B.

The yarn A and the yarn B obtained as described above were subjected to composite false twisting using the process of FIG. 1 to obtain a composite false twisted yarn. In this composite false twisting, the supply roller 1
2 and the speed of the take-off roller 9 are each 205 m.
/ Min, 339 m / min, the heating plate 3 is heated to 120 ° C. to heat the yarn A, and the heating plate 4 is not heated so that the yarn B runs in the air. A circumscribed friction false twist device was used. The running yarn between the junction P and the false twist rotor 8 was sampled, and the number of false twists (times / m) was measured under a load of 0.1 g / d (denier). 2500 (times / m)
Met.

The obtained composite false twisted yarn had a core-sheath structure in which yarn A and yarn B had a difference in shrinkage between high shrinkage and low crimp. Further, the yarn B after the boiling water treatment had a portion with a thick and thin structure along the yarn axis direction, and had characteristics as shown in Table 1.

Table 1

Next, 500 times /
m, and a dry heat setting at 50 ° C. × 24 hours was performed using an oven. Next, this composite false twisted yarn is woven into a satin woven fabric having a warp yarn density of 130 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 80 yarns / inch, and then passed through a dyeing and finishing process by a conventional method. A 25% alkali weight reduction treatment was performed to finish the product fabric.

The product woven fabric has a structure in which a single yarn fineness and a long yarn length A are located in the surface layer, and a unit fineness and a short yarn length B are located in the inner layer portion. The fabric was soft, upholstered, stiff, and resilient and of high quality. Comparative Example 1 Using the same half-drawn yarns of the yarn A and the yarn B as in Example 1, both yarns A and B were aligned and supplied simultaneously to the hot plate 3 side, and the temperature of the hot plate 3 was set to 200 ° C. Was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn.

Next, 500 times /
After applying a real twist of m and performing steam setting at 85 ° C. for 30 minutes, weaving was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 and dyed and finished to obtain a product fabric. The number of false twists of the composite false twisted yarn obtained as described above is 2550 turns / m, the boiling water shrinkage is 5.5%, the crimp restoring ratio is 31.0%, and the yarn length difference and spontaneous elongation are different. I was not able to admit. The product woven fabric was bulky, but had a strong fluffiness, and was a woven fabric lacking in tension, stiffness and resilience.

[0043]

According to the present invention, yarns A and B having at least two temperature differences are subjected to composite false twisting,
Boiling water shrinkage rate, spontaneous elongation rate, crimp restoration rate, obtain a processed yarn having different properties from the conventional false twisted yarn, give it a real twist, set it by twisting, and then make a knitted fabric, A knitted fabric which is free from flicker and has excellent tension, stiffness and high resilience unlike conventional false twisted yarn fabrics can be obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing a processing step of a composite false twisting yarn used for manufacturing a knitted fabric of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 A, B Supply yarns 1, 2 Supply rollers 3, 4 Hot plate 7 Cooling plate 8 False twist rotator 9 Take-up roller 10 Entangling nozzle 11 Take-up roller 12 Package P Confluence point

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. A yarn A having at least two temperature differences
And B, and the high-temperature side yarn A is combined with the low-temperature side yarn B.
Is subjected to composite false twisting while heating, so that the boiling water shrinkage is 15 to 80%, the spontaneous elongation is 1 to 30%, the crimp restoration is 1 to 25%, and the yarn A and B Knitted and woven fabrics which are made into a composite false twisted yarn having a yarn length difference of 1 to 30%, are subjected to actual twisting, are twist-set by dry heat or wet heat at 30 to 80 ° C, and are then knitted and woven. Manufacturing method. 2. The boiling water shrinkage of the yarn B is 15 to 80.
%. 3. The method for producing a knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the spontaneous elongation of the yarn B is 1 to 30%. 4. The method for producing a knitted woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn B has a yarn length shorter than the yarn A. 5. The method for producing a knitted woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the composite false twisting yarn is made of polyester fiber. 6. The real twist given to the composite false twisted yarn is 10%.
The method for producing a knitted fabric according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5, wherein the rate is 0 to 3000 times / m.