JPH0823114B2 - Patterned woven fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method of forming a tonal contrast on a textile fabric surface.

Conventionally, as a method of forming a desired pattern on the woven fabric surface, a method of applying a dye in a pattern or a method of applying a hot embossing roll or a heating liquid flow to the woven fabric surface in a pattern before dyeing is known. . The surface subjected to this heat treatment is usually dyed darker than the untreated area, and a pattern is generated due to this density difference. In addition, a method of forming a pattern by compressing and applying heat to deform the fiber, a method of weaving another fiber to form a pattern, and the like are known.

US Patent Application No. 253,135 (filed April 13, 1981) discloses a method of applying a heating fluid to a woven cloth in a pattern and selectively shrinking, melting or deforming each fiber to form a distinct pattern. It is disclosed.

This method can form a pattern that gives fine and remarkable contrast under certain conditions. Particularly when the woven fabric substrate is a pile woven fabric, heat shrinkage is given to each fiber in the longitudinal direction. As a result, an engraved pattern with a high contrast is formed between the other portions. But,
The degree of this contrast greatly depends on the incident angle of the light beam. When this method is used to pattern a non-pile woven fabric, the fibers soften, shrink or melt, but the contrast may not be sufficient even if the light incident direction is optimized. When a pattern is formed using a dye, it is difficult to perform a fine pattern with good reproducibility and efficiency. There are many limitations, such as the need to carefully match colors, adjust dyeing operations, and apply dyes accurately.

For this reason, it is possible to form a pattern having a remarkable contrast on the textile substrate without dyeing by using heat or other conditioning medium, and the contrast does not depend on the incident angle of light. There has been a demand for an efficient pattern forming method that can be realized.

The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, in which the pattern forming portion of the surface of the knitted fabric is treated by a thermal method, the polyester yarn of the portion is thermally deformed, and in the subsequent solvent extraction step of the disperse dye. The present invention provides a method for forming a color tone pattern that selectively extracts the dye contained in the heat-deformed portion and does not substantially affect other untreated portions. This disperse dye is applied before the yarn thermal deformation treatment step.

The solvent used in the present invention generally also extracts the dye in the untreated portion, but at least its extraction rate is slower than in the treated portion.

Explaining specific examples of the present invention, first, a polyester (for example, polyethylene terephthalate),
A textile fluid dyed with a disperse dye is applied with a heating fluid, such as air, in a pattern by a device such as that disclosed in US Patent Application No. 253,135. It is also effective to use this device in combination with the manifold disclosed in US Pat. No. 4,364,156. However, the device is not limited to such a device, and a desired pattern may be formed on the surface of the knitted fabric while applying a required amount of heat by other heating means such as laser light.

When heat is applied to the surface of the knitted fabric in this way, the internal orientation of the fibers in that portion is reduced, which promotes the penetration of the solvent into the interior (probably causing intermolecular gaps), and the dye It seems that extraction is accelerated. Furthermore, it is considered that this heat-conditioning accelerates the migration of dye molecules from the inside of the knitted fabric toward the surface, and accelerates the extraction rate of the dye with the solvent. Generally, the conditioning of plastic fibers by heat is accompanied by thermal deformation and distortion of the fibers, such as shrinkage in the longitudinal direction and melting. This is the first effect
Through FIG. Furthermore, the maximum rate of selective dye extraction according to the present invention is noticeable in the parts that have undergone thermal deformation. However, appearance effects such as softening, shrinkage and melting do not seem to be necessary conditions in the present invention. This change in appearance changes in size depending on the type of fiber, composition, degree of freedom of deformation, heat properties, and the like.

It is considered that the polymer fiber thus conditioned has more voids between polymer molecules, which accelerates the migration rate of the solvent.

The table below shows the shadows of polyester fibers heat-conditioned on solvent. That is, 20 / 2T-811W Bright DACRON (trademark, manufactured by Deupon) (manufactured using polyethylene terephthalate fiber manufactured by Deupon) is dyed with Eastman Polyester Blue GLF (Color Index: Desperse Blue 27). did. Fluidized bed of this fiber (Type SBS-2, Fisher Scientific, Inc., Pennsylvania)
It was immersed in (liquid temperature 300 ° F to 500 ° F, increasing temperature 2 ° F) for 5 seconds. At each of these temperatures, the change in shrinkage was also measured. Then, the standard length of the fiber was immersed in 5 ml of methylene chloride at room temperature for 1 minute for dye extraction. Next, the UV-visible spectrum of this extract was measured, and the absorption wavelength of 592 to 595 mμ of this blue dye was recorded, and the amount of dye extracted by the solvent was measured.

Table 1 Temperature% shrinkage Relative absorbency 300 0.048 325 0.2 .092 350 0.8 .108 375 3.5 .057 400 6.8 .043 425 9.6 .070 450 20.5 .349 475 28.2 .699 500 Specific fiber / In solvent systems, dye extraction rates are generally increased by thermal conditioning above about 300 ° F and range from 425 ° F to 475-500 ° F (ie, just below the melting point of the untreated fiber). A rapid increase in velocity is seen after thermal conditioning with temperature. When the fibers are constrained, it is preferred to treat at a slightly higher temperature, i.e. above 500 ° F, to increase shrinkage and increase dye extraction rate.

After heat-treating the woven fabric in a desired pattern, the woven fabric is exposed to a solvent for a suitable time, and the dye is selectively extracted from only the heat-treated portion during that time, which substantially affects the non-heat-treated portion. Try not to. It is not necessary to immediately expose the heat-treated knitted fabric to a solvent or store it under a specific condition.

There is no particular limitation on the type of solvent, for example, for polyester yarn-containing knitted fabric dyed with a disperse dye,
It is also possible to use heated perchlorethylene, 1,1,1-trichloroethane or the like. Other solvents are literature Text
ile Research Joarnal December issue 1972, Table II (page 722) in pages 720-726, or March issue 1975, 203-21
It is also possible to use those described in Table I (page 206) in the description on page 7.

A preferred solvent for the polyester yarn / disperse dye combination is methylene chloride, which can be used at room temperature and allows for relatively rapid extraction of the dispersant from the heat treated parts. To give a specific example,
The polyester yarn-containing knitted fabric is heat-treated in a pattern, and this is then stirred at room temperature for a short time in a methylene chloride bath, and if the solvent is sufficiently circulated, the heat-treated portion between 30 and 60 seconds can be visually observed. All recognizable dyes can be extracted. At the same time, the extraction of dye from the relatively light, i.e., low temperature, treated areas is considerably less, and almost no dye is extracted from the untreated areas. When the same selective dye extraction was carried out in a shorter time using a warmed or heated methylene chloride solvent, almost complete dye extraction could be carried out from the heat treatment area within a few seconds. If the exposure time to the solvent is not sufficiently controlled, complete dye extraction will be carried out from the lightly heat-treated portion or the portion not heat-treated at all.

In the step of contacting with the solvent, the solvent can be applied to the knitted fabric by a method other than dipping, for example, a spray method. Further, after applying the solvent, the textile fabric may be physically stirred to wash the dye saturated solvent from the surface of the textile fabric to promote extraction. As a means for stopping the action of the solvent, it can be carried out by stagnating the solvent for an appropriate time and then washing it off.

The solvent used is not flammable, has no toxicity to humans, and does not damage the textile fabric. The preferred solvent is the Hildebrand solubility parameter (a parameter that correlates with the solubility of non-electrolytes and is a measure of the energy required to form vacancies to accept transition states in known solvents. And Arnold Jay Gordon and Richard Aifford, "Handbook of" Chemist Companion "Practical Data, Technology and References", p. 22, John Willey.
ANDSAN Inc. Willey-as defined in Interscience Publishing. Are suitable for the fibers used. For example, for a textile fabric (10.7) made of polyethylene terephthalate, it is preferable that the Hildebrand solubility parameter is 8 to 14. The solubility parameter closest to 10.7 does not necessarily result in the maximum dye extraction rate, and is not necessarily preferred over other solubility parameters. It is also necessary to consider the size of the solvent molecule, that is, the permeability into the voids between the polymer chains. In that sense, a solvent having a high migration rate is preferable. Solvents with a solubility parameter higher or lower than 10.7 are highly reactive with different parts of the polyethylene terephthalate molecule and will show a high solvent extraction rate. Solubility parameters between 9 and 10 and between 11.5 and 13 may also be preferred, the former group being more susceptible to reacting with the aromatic part of the polyethylene terephthalate molecule and the latter group being , Reacts well with the aliphatic part of the molecule.

Examples will be described below. A pattern forming apparatus using heated or heated air used here is a US patent application.
Similar to those disclosed in US Pat. No. 253,135 and US Pat. No. 4,364,156.

Example 1 A 100% polyester fluffed pile woven fabric (Style 8301, Milliken d Co.) having a basis weight of 10 ounces / square yard was dyed with a disperse dye to obtain a uniform medium brown color.

This was then formed into a heat-shrinked dot-like array pattern in which the heated air stream was recessed. The processing rate was 6.5 yards / minute and the manifold airflow temperature was 670 ° F. The color of the imprinted pattern gave a slightly darker feeling than the background portion (the portion where the pile was upright) before contact with the solvent. The patterned woven fabric was immersed in a methylene chloride bath at 23 ° C. for 1 minute, then removed and dried in a stream of air at room temperature. When completely dry, the woven fabric was found to have a very light brown imprinted dot pattern formed in the undiscolored background. In this case, the contrast was extremely large, and the pattern could be recognized from any angle.

Example 2 A 44 gauge double needle bur Russiel nilt polyester pile fabric (Style 6590, basis weight 9 ounces / square yard, Milken d Co.) was dyed with a disperse dye to give a uniform deep blue color. This woven fabric was formed into a dot pattern using heated air in the same manner as in Example 1. The processing speed at this time was 25 yards / minute, and the air temperature was about 820 ° F. Subsequent treatment with methylene chloride for 1 minute followed by air drying gave a nearly white dot pattern on a deep blue background, which pattern was found to correspond to a shrink pile section.

Example 3 Russiel Nitto Pile Woven Fabric of 100% Polyester (S
tyle 180, Milliken d Co., grammage 5 oz / yard ²
Was dyed green with a disperse dye, and a dot-like pattern was formed thereon with heated air in the same manner as in Example 1. At this time, the processing speed was 7 yards / minute, and the air temperature was about 700 ° F.
The engraved pattern at this time was difficult to read accurately at all angles. Then, this
Immersion in methylene chloride at 23 ° C. for 30 seconds and then drying with a stream of cold air resulted in the formation of a white, high contrast pattern in the green background.

Example 4 100% polyester nit woven fabric (interlock) (S
tyle 2651, Milliken d Co. Basis weight 3.0 oz / yard ² is dyed in deep blue with disperse dye, and then heated air flow is applied to this using the same device as above while controlling the computer to form a pattern. Let The processing rate was 3.75 yards / min and the airflow temperature was about 820 ° F.

Prior to contact with solvent, the pattern showed a darker color. Then, it was dipped in methylene chloride at 23 ° C. for 30 seconds and then air-dried, and the pattern turned bright. A second portion of the same fabric was similarly patterned and exposed to methylene chloride for 60 seconds. As a result, a larger contrast was formed, and the color of the parts other than the pattern part did not change.

Example 5 Polyester / cotton blend woven fabric (Style 2602, Milliken d
Co., Ltd., basis weight 4.75 oz / yard) was dyed in navy blue. A diamond pattern having a floral pattern in the center was formed on this woven fabric by a flow of heated air. The processing rate was 6 yards / minute and the air temperature was about 700 ° F. As a result, a slight contrast was observed between the design and the outside of the design. When this was immersed in methylene chloride at 23 ° C. for 1 minute, the dye was extracted from the polyester yarn in the heat-treated portion, and the dye in the cotton yarn remained as it was. Therefore, a light blue pattern was formed in the dark navy blue background.

Example 6 A disperse dye-dying polyester yarn was used as a warp yarn, and a cationic dye-dying polyester yarn was used as a weft yarn in a fluffed woven fabric, which was dyed and then fluffed to give one side.
A 0.1-inch square non-pile portion having an engraving effect was formed, and thus a gray background was formed with a disperse dye and a black pattern was formed with a cationic dye. This woven fabric is Style 8317 (Milliken d Co.) with a basis weight of 10 ounces / yard ² .
A heated air flow was used for this woven fabric as above, and the processing speed was 6.75
Treated at yard / min, air temperature 670 ° F. Then, this was immersed in methylene chloride at 23 ° C. for 1 minute and then dried. As a result, a high-contrast pattern having white portions and black dots in a gray background was obtained. Therefore, this product was multicolored and had a clear contrast with the portion where the cationic dye was removed in a relatively small amount.

Example 7 A polyester woven fabric of the same quality as that of Example 6 having a basis weight of 9.5 oz / yard ² (Style 8327, Milliken d Co.
Co., Ltd.) and then patterned with an air flow of 760 ° F (processing speed 6.75 yards / min). Then, this was immersed in methylene chloride at 23 ° C. for 1 minute and then dried. As a result, a large contrast pattern with bright diagonal blue lines was formed on a slightly dark blue background.

Example 8 The same woven fabric as in Example 1 was similarly treated with hot air and then immersed in a methylene chloride bath at 35 ° C. for 5 seconds. As a result, the same result as in Example 1 was obtained.

Example 9 In Example 1, acetone heated to 53 ° C. was used instead of methylene chloride. As a result, the same result as in Example 1 was obtained.

Example 10 The same treatment as in Example 1 was performed except that 1,1,1-trichloroethane (70 ° C.) was used instead of methylene chloride,
The same result as in Example 1 was obtained.

Example 11 The same result as in Example 1 was obtained when the same treatment as in Example 1 was carried out except that perchlorethylene at 95 ° C. was used instead of methylene chloride and the contact was carried out for 5 minutes.

Example 12 The same process as in Example 1 was carried out except that ethanol at 73 ° C. was used instead of methylene chloride and contact was performed for 5 minutes, and the same result as in Example 1 was obtained.

Example 13 In Example 1, the process of rising to heated air was performed before the dyeing process. As a result, a woven fabric having a pattern of dark brown dots in an intermediate brown background was obtained. 1 at 23 ℃
After contacting with methylene chloride for a minute, a noticeable bright dot is formed and exposed for a total of 5 minutes (relative to the solvent).
Upon application, light page-colored dots were formed in the medium brown background.

[Brief description of drawings]

1 and 2 show side views of a mixed woven fabric of polyester yarn and non-thermoplastic plastic yarn,
FIG. 3 is a diagram illustrating that only the polyester yarn is contracted in the longitudinal direction by heat treatment and dye extraction is performed from this deformed yarn. FIG. 3 is an enlarged plan view showing a state in which the flatton woven fabric of the polyester yarn is thermally deformed. FIG. 4 is a plan view showing a state in which the dye is selectively extracted from the heat-treated diamond-shaped portion.

Front Page Continuation (56) References JP-A-56-134283 (JP, A) JP-B 46-19746 (JP, B1) JP-B 42-13423 (JP, B1) JP-B 59-25907 (JP) , Y2)

Claims (19)

[Claims] 1. A method for forming a color tone pattern on the surface of a textile fabric containing polyester yarns, comprising: (a) dyeing the textile fabric with a disperse dye in advance; and (b) then dyeing the surface of the textile fabric. Heat treatment is selectively applied to the color tone pattern forming portion of (1) to enhance the solvent extractability of the disperse dye from the heat-deformed portion of the polyester yarn, and (c) exposing the surface of the woven fabric to a solvent, Visual recognition of the disperse dye from the polyester yarn of the heat-treated and heat-deformed part before the disperse dye is extracted and removed from other untreated non-heat-deformed parts to a visually discernible extent. The method as described above, characterized in that (d) the disperse dye extraction is performed to a desired extent, and then the disperse dye extraction with the solvent is stopped. 2. The method of claim 1 wherein the heat treated and heat deformed portion contains a reduction in the relative internal orientation of the treated yarn in the patterned portion. 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the solvent is selected from methylene chloride, perchloroethane and 1,1,1-trichloroethane. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the polyester yarn is a polyethylene terephthalate yarn, which is dyed with a disperse dye. 5. The method of claim 1 in which heating is applied to a sufficient extent to thermally deform the yarn in the heat treated portion. 6. The method according to claim 1, wherein a heating fluid flow is applied in a pattern toward the surface of the woven fabric as the heat treatment. 7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the heating is performed by irradiation with laser light. 8. The method according to claim 1, wherein the solvent extraction rate increasing treatment is performed after the dyeing treatment step. 9. The solvent is methylene chloride, perchloroethane,
A method according to claim 6 which is selected from 1,1,1-trichloroethane. 10. The selective heat treatment of the surface of the knitted fabric is performed at a temperature of 163.
A process according to claim 1 wherein the solvent is ˜260 ° C. and the solvent has a Hildebrand solubility parameter of 8-14. 11. The method according to claim 10, wherein the solvent is selected from methylene chloride, perchloroethane and 1,1,1-trichloroethane. 12. The method according to claim 10, wherein a heating fluid stream is applied in a pattern toward the surface of the woven fabric as the heat treatment. 13. The method according to claim 10, wherein the heating is performed by irradiation with laser light. 14. A pattern is formed by a portion composed of a heat-deformed polyester thread and a portion composed of a non-heat-deformed polyester thread, and the disperse dye is thermally deformed in the non-heat-deformed portion. A knitted woven fabric having a color tone pattern characterized in that it is adhered substantially more than parts thereof. 15. The heat-deformed polyester yarn has at least a part thereof contracted in the longitudinal direction.
Textile fabric according to item 14. 16. The heat-deformed polyester yarn is obtained by melting at least a part thereof.
The woven fabric according to the item. 17. A heat-deformed polyester yarn is made of a pile yarn, at least the tip portion of which is contracted in the longitudinal direction, and the amount of the disperse dye deposited per unit length of the contracted portion is smaller than that of other portions. The woven or woven fabric according to claim 14, wherein 18. The woven fabric according to claim 14, wherein both the heat-deformed polyester yarn and the non-heat-deformed polyester yarn are distributed at the same density on the surface of the woven fabric. 19. A pattern formed by a polyester thread portion which is visually heat-deformed and contains almost no disperse dye, and a non-heat-deformed polyester thread portion which is distinguished thereby. The woven fabric according to the item.