JP2018188769A - Stretchable warp knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

An object of the present invention is to provide an elastic warp knitted fabric having excellent air permeability and excellent smoothness and good touch. SOLUTION: The air flow rate is 130 to 500 cm 3 / cm 2 / s, the average deviation (SMD) of the roughness in the knitted fabric warp direction or the knitted fabric width direction is 10.0 or less, and at 80% repetitive stretching S2 / S1 is more than 2.0 to 8.0, where S1 is the extension stress in the knitted fabric direction and S2 is the extension stress in the warp direction at the third 80% extension. Elastic warp knitted fabric. [Selection] Figure 1

Description

  The present invention relates to a stretchable warp knitted fabric suitable for body-dressing garments such as girdle and body suit and inner use.

  In recent years, body-dressing garments require not only body shape-correcting functions, but also compatibility with functions other than body shape-correcting functions, such as the ability to follow the body movement, ease of attachment and detachment, and touch. Yes. Moreover, from the viewpoint of comfort, body-dressing garments are generally worn in a state of being in close contact with the body, so that “steaming” is unsatisfactory regardless of the season. Therefore, it is strongly desired to improve the feeling of stuffiness in clothes when worn, and a fabric having high breathability is desired for innerwear having high comfort.

  On the other hand, since the body-dressing garments generally have a strong force to tighten the body, there is a complaint that it is difficult to move. Therefore, there is a demand for improvement in operability while having a correction function when worn. The feeling of power resulting from such correction, detachability, and operability closely corresponds to the physical properties of the fabric.

  Conventionally, in order to increase the air permeability, a method of enlarging the hole on the fabric has been considered, as represented by a mesh structure. Although the air permeability is improved by enlarging the holes, the surface of the fabric is uneven, so that the fabric has a very poor touch. On the other hand, in order to improve the operability, when trying to give the fabric an excellent stretchability and recoverability, it is necessary to form a dense structure, and as a result, the pores become smaller and high air permeability is obtained. hard.

  In recent years, there is a tendency that products with low wearing pressure and a comfortable wearing feeling are desired. On the other hand, there are consumers who demand a high sense of compensation from the body-dressing garments, and it is necessary to select functions and provide products according to consumer needs. However, a comfortable wearing feeling and a feeling of compensation are in a trade-off relationship, and it is very difficult to achieve both. Even in products that require an easy-to-wear feeling, compensation is essential, and even in products that require a feeling of compensation, products that have reduced obstruction and stress when worn are desired. The present condition is that a product having a high degree is desired.

Patent Document 1 below, aeration rate ^{90cm 3 / cm 2 /s~123.2 cm 3} / cm 2 / s, the stress ratio of elongation of longitudinal and transverse direction is in the range of 0.8 to 1.4 Although it has been disclosed that an elastic warp knitted fabric having excellent breathability, stretchability, and recoverability can be obtained, it is less than 130 cm ³ / cm ² / s when attention is paid only to the amount of breathing. If it is used, etc., it will not sufficiently improve the stuffiness.

Japanese Patent No. 2657200

  In view of the above-described problems of the prior art, the problem to be solved by the present invention is to have a high degree of breathability but also to have a high degree of compensation, and also to have a smooth elasticity with excellent smoothness. Is to provide knitted fabric.

  In addition, the problem to be solved by the present invention is that, when worn as a bottom product, for a consumer who desires a high sense of compensation, while maintaining a high body shape compensation effect / compensation feeling, maintaining motion tracking, An object of the present invention is to provide a stretch warp knitted fabric that is a highly comfortable bottom with reduced feeling of hindrance during operation.

  As a result of intensive studies and experiments to solve the above problems, the present inventors have high smoothness by reducing the feeling of roughness of the fabric surface while being a knitted fabric having high air permeability, In addition, the present inventors have completed the present invention by developing a knitted fabric having high compensation and operational comfort by having an appropriate stretch characteristic in the vertical and horizontal directions of the knitted fabric.

That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] The air flow rate is 130 to 500 cm ³ / cm ² / s, the average deviation (SMD) of the roughness in the warp direction or the knitting direction is 10.0 or less, and the stretching is 80% S2 / S1 is more than 2.0 to 8.0, where S1 is the extension stress in the knitted fabric direction and S2 is the extension stress in the knitted warp direction at the third 80% extension. Elastic warp knitted fabric.
[2] The stretch warp knitted fabric according to the above [1], wherein the stretch stress S2 in the warp direction in the third 80% at the time of 80% repeated stretching is more than 450 cN to 1000 cN.
[3] The ten-point average roughness (Rz _JIS ) obtained from a roughness curve on the surface of the design portion in the knitted fabric warp direction and the knitted fabric transverse direction is 500 μm or less, according to the above [1] or [2]. Elastic warp knitted fabric.
[4] Chain knitting with non-elastic yarn moves between wells every odd number of every 3 to 7 courses, and two types of elastic yarns with different power strengths are inserted. The elastic yarn with the lower power accompanying the yarn has a structure that moves 1 to 3 wells between the rows of chain stitches of the non-elastic yarn accompanied by the elastic yarn with the higher power. The elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of 1] to [3].
[5] A garment including the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [4].

  By using the elastic warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, it is possible to provide a bottom garment that is excellent in operability and wear comfort while obtaining a sufficient effect of body shape correction in addition to being excellent in reduction of stuffiness and feel when worn. Can be obtained.

It is the knitting | organization organization chart in Examples 1-6. 5 is a knitting structure diagram in Comparative Example 1. FIG. 10 is a knitting structure diagram in Comparative Example 2. FIG. It is a pattern simplification figure of the M size girdle produced for the wearing test.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The stretch warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment has a high air flow rate and smoothness, is excellent in reduction of stuffiness and touch, and has an excellent compensation effect due to appropriate stretching stress in the warp direction. It is a stretch warp knitted fabric for bottom apparel that has good operability due to its high stretch characteristics in the knitted fabric side direction.

It is essential that the air permeability of the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment is in the range of 130 cm ³ / cm ² / s to 500 cm ³ / cm ² / s, preferably 200 cm ³ / cm ² / s to 500 cm. ³ / cm ² / s. When the air flow rate is 130 cm ³ / cm ² / s, when used as a product such as a bottom, sufficient air permeability can be obtained, and the feeling of stuffiness during wearing can be reduced. On the other hand, if the air flow rate is 500 cm ³ / cm ² / s or less, the holes in the fabric do not become too large, and the strength of the fabric can be maintained. The hole in the fabric is a portion other than the thread in the fabric.

  It is important that the average deviation (SMD) of the roughness in the knitted warp direction or the knitted fabric horizontal direction of the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment is 10.0 or less, preferably in both the knitted fabric warp and horizontal directions. SMD is 10.0 or less. Here, SMD is an average deviation of the surface roughness of the fabric, and correlates with the physical roughness of the fabric. The larger the SMD, the more uneven the fabric surface. If SMD is 10.0 or less, smoothness is sufficiently high, the unevenness | corrugation at the time of wear can be suppressed, and the outstanding touch can be obtained. The knitted fabric warp direction refers to a knitting direction in a warp knitting machine, and the knitted fabric transverse direction refers to a direction perpendicular to the warp direction of the knitted fabric.

  In the fabric stress of the elastic warp knitted fabric of this embodiment, the stretch stress in the knitted warp direction at 80% for the third time when stretched 80% is S2 (cN), and the stretch stress in the knitted fabric direction is S1 ( cN), it is important that the stress ratio S2 / S1 is more than 2.0 to 8.0, and more preferably, S2 / S1 is more than 2.0 to 6.0. Generally, in bottom clothing such as girdle, the knitted fabric side direction is used in the vertical direction (height direction) of the clothing product, and the knitted fabric vertical direction is used in the side direction of the clothing product. Therefore, the body shape correction property corresponds to the stretch property in the knitted fabric warp direction, and the operability corresponds to the stretch property in the knitted fabric warp direction. If S2 / S1 exceeds 2.0, the operation followability is impaired. Therefore, a sufficient tightening force is generated in the circumferential direction of the body, and a high body shape correction effect can be obtained. On the other hand, if S2 / S1 is 8.0 or less, the tightening does not become excessive and wear comfort is not impaired.

  Further, in the fabric stress of the elastic warp knitted fabric of this embodiment, it is preferable that the stretching stress S2 in the warp direction in the third 80% at the time of 80% repeated stretching is more than 450 cN to 1000 cN, more preferably. More than 450 cN to 700 cN. When S2 exceeds 450 cN, a sufficient tightening force is generated in the circumferential direction of the body, and a high body shape correction effect can be obtained. On the other hand, if it is 1000 cN or less, tightening does not become excessive, so that wearing comfort is not impaired. On the other hand, if S2 is larger than 1000 cN, the tightening becomes stronger and the correction property is improved.

  As a recovery rate of the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment, it is preferable that the stretch recovery rate of the fabric is 85% or more in the third knitting direction when the stretch is repeated 80%. If the stretch recovery rate is 85% or more, it is possible to follow the movement of the body during operation.

On the surface of the design part such as the handle of the stretch warp knitted fabric of this embodiment, the ten-point average roughness (Rz _JIS ) obtained from the roughness curve of the design part surface in the knitted fabric warp direction and the knitted fabric side direction is 500 μm or less. It is preferable that Here, the design portion such as a pattern refers to a pattern on the surface of the fabric. In general, a girdle or the like is provided with a pattern by a pattern thread or the like on the surface of the fabric in order to give an aesthetic appearance. Generally, the level difference of the surface irregularities is evaluated as roughness, and it can be said that the larger the level difference, the rougher. In Rz _JIS , which is one roughness index, and in the knitted fabric warp direction and knitted fabric width direction, if any of them is 500 μm or less, it can be said that the surface of the design portion has a small roughness and is dense and highly aesthetic.

  A tricot knitting machine or a Raschel knitting machine is preferably used as the knitting machine used for manufacturing the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment. Among them, Raschel knitting is preferably used in order to increase power in the knitted fabric warp direction, that is, the horizontal direction at the time of product. The knitting gauge used is preferably 20 to 40 gauge. In particular, a Raschel knitting machine having a jacquard fold is preferably used for arranging a pattern on the fabric surface.

  An example of the structure | tissue which improves the air permeability of fabric in the elastic warp knitted fabric of this embodiment is shown in FIG. A chain knitting (GB1) made of inelastic yarn moving between the wells every three courses and an insertion first elastic yarn (GB3) accompanying the chain knitting are arranged. The movement of the Jacquard kite (JB2) has a large-hole mesh structure that increases air permeability while showing high strength by using an insertion structure swinging every course that reciprocates between the two chain stitches in the vertical direction. The base fabric can be knitted. Further, if the jacquard yarn structure is an insertion structure without loop formation, the fabric can be made thin, and air permeability can be improved. For this reason, it becomes possible to provide high air permeability. In chain knitting with inelastic yarn, the size of the mesh hole can be changed as appropriate by changing the moving distance between the courses every odd number courses such as 3, 5 and 7 courses. The travel distance between the courses is preferably 3 or 5 courses, but if it is 7 courses or less, it is possible to keep a large hole diameter while maintaining the strength.

  As shown in FIG. 1, as an example of a method for improving stretchability in two directions of the knitted fabric warp and width, an inelastic yarn is used for the ground structure (GB1), and the inelastic yarn has two types with different fineness and texture. Knitted by inserting the elastic yarns (first elastic yarn (GB3) and second elastic yarn (GB4)). Note that the power strength of the first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn is preferably such that the power of the first elastic yarn is greater than the power of the second elastic yarn. While the first elastic yarn (GB3) is a structure accompanying the chain braid (elastic yarn (GB1)), the second elastic yarn (GB4) is an inelastic yarn accompanied by the first elastic yarn (GB3). It moves between the rows according to the chain stitch structure by (GB1). The moving distance can be appropriately selected from 1 to 3 wells, but is preferably 1 or 2 wells. By using two types of elastic yarns (GB3 and GB4) having different powers and having different structures, it becomes possible to separately manage and adjust the stretchability of the knitted fabric warp and the stretchability of the knitted fabric. Note that the strength of the power is determined by the magnitude of the load value when the elongation rate is 200% when one elastic yarn is stretched at a constant speed.

Further, as an example of a method for improving the smoothness of the surface of the fabric, an insertion structure that is entangled and pressed into the ground yarn is used for the jacquard structure. The yarn used is PU (polyurethane) as the core yarn, and the covering yarn using the non-elastic yarn as the covering yarn is used for the jacquard reed (JB2), so that a soft knitted fabric with a smooth surface can be obtained. It becomes possible. In addition, by using a covering yarn for the jacquard structure, it becomes possible to give the pattern structure by jacquard elongation, and the second elastic yarn (GB4) inhibits the stretch in the knitted fabric direction. It is possible to form a tissue without doing it. In addition, by using the covering yarn (GB2) for the jacquard structure, when the fabric is relaxed, the inelastic yarn in the covering yarn (GB2) is piled as the second elastic yarn (GB4) contracts. When the covering yarn on the fabric is raised, the pattern formed by the jacquard is given clearness.
The preferred fineness of the inelastic yarn used for the covering yarn (JB2) is 20 to 200 dtex, the fineness of the elastic yarn is 20 to 700 dtex, and the draft rate of the elastic yarn is 1.0 to 3.0. Some are preferred. Further, the twist number of the covering yarn is preferably 300 T / m to 1000 T / m.

  Non-elastic yarn (GB1) includes polyamide fiber, polyester fiber (polytrimethylene terephthalate, etc.), polypropylene fiber, synthetic fiber such as acrylic fiber, cellulosic fiber such as cupra, rayon, cotton, bamboo fiber, wool All kinds of fibers such as animal hair fibers can be used. Bright yarns, semi-dal yarns, full-dal yarns and the like formed from these materials can be arbitrarily used. The cross-sectional shape of the inelastic fiber can be any cross-sectional shape such as a round shape, an elliptical shape, a W shape, a saddle shape, and a hollow fiber. Further, the form of the inelastic yarn is not particularly limited, and a crimped yarn subjected to a raw yarn and false twist can be used. Further, it can be used as a composite yarn in which long fibers, spun yarns, two or more kinds of fibers are mixed by twisted yarn, covering, air mixed fiber or the like. The preferred fineness of the inelastic yarn is 20 to 200 dtex.

As the elastic yarn (first elastic yarn (GB3) and second elastic yarn (GB4)), a polyurethane elastic yarn is preferably used. As the polyurethane elastic yarn, one obtained by dry spinning or melt spinning can be used. The elongation at break of the polyurethane elastic yarn is preferably 400 to 1000% in order to have good stretchability when knitted into bottom clothing or the like.
The polymer used for the elastic yarn is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain a good feel and stretchability of the fabric, the side chain such as 2,2-dimethylpropylene group or 3-methyltetramethylene group is added to the polyalkylene ether diol component. A polyalkylene ether diol containing a side chain of a 2,2-dimethylpropylene group component is more preferred. The fineness of the elastic yarn is preferably 155 dtex to 620 dtex, more preferably 310 dtex to 470 dtex in order to obtain the desired tensile stress of the fabric. The fineness of the second elastic yarn (GB4) is preferably 20 dtex to 155 dtex, more preferably 20 dtex to 78 dtex.

  In addition, compounds that are usually added to polyurethane elastic yarns, such as UV absorbers, antioxidants, light stabilizers, anti-gas colorants, chlorine-resistant agents, colorants, matting agents, lubricants, fillers, etc. May be added.

  As the dyeing finishing method, the normal dyeing finishing process can be used, and the dyeing conditions according to the fiber material to be used are used, and the dyeing machine to be used is any liquid dyeing machine, beam dyeing machine, wins dyeing machine, paddle dyeing machine, etc. It is also possible to use a processing agent that improves water absorption and flexibility.

  In addition, in a garment product using the stretch knitted fabric obtained as described above, if the stretch warp knitted fabric occupies 50% or more of the product area, the garment product has a high breathability and a soft touch. It is good, and high compensation and sufficient operability can be obtained. More preferably, the area occupied by the present stretch warp knitted fabric in the clothing product is 70% or more.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to these. In addition, the elastic knitted fabric obtained by the Example and the comparative example was evaluated with the following method.

(1) Aeration rate of stretch knitted fabric The aeration rate of stretch knitted fabric was measured by the following method.
Sample size: 20cm x 20cm
Ventilation rate tester: Fragile type air permeability tester (Daeei Scientific Seiki Seisakusho AP-360)
Measurement: After a test piece is attached to one end of the cylinder of the tester, the suction fan and the air hole are adjusted so that the inclined barometer exhibits a pressure of 125 Pa by an adjusting resistor, and the pressure indicated by the vertical barometer at that time Was measured. From the measured pressure and the type of air hole used, the amount of air passing through the test piece (cm ³ / cm ² / s) is obtained from the conversion table attached to the test machine, and the average value of n = 5 is determined for each ventilation The amount.

により、編地タテ・ヨコ方向におけるそれぞれの平均偏差ＳＭＤを求め、ｎ＝３の平均値を各々の平均偏差とした。尚、Ｌｍａｘは測定時の最大移動距離である。 (2) Average deviation of roughness of elastic knitted fabric The average deviation of roughness of elastic knitted fabric was measured by the following method.
Sample size: 20cm x 20cm
Friction tester: Automated friction tester (Kato Tech KES-FB4A)
SENS (friction): STD
SENS (Roughness): STD
Measurement speed: 0.1 cm / s
Friction static load: 50g
Roughness pressure: 10gf
Initial tension: 400g
Measurement: Measured under the above conditions, the obtained vertical displacement Z (cm) and its average value:
Using a zet bar, the following formula:

Thus, the respective average deviations SMD in the knitted fabric warp and width directions were obtained, and an average value of n = 3 was defined as each average deviation. Note that Lmax is the maximum movement distance at the time of measurement.

(3) Stretch stress and stretch stress ratio of each part of the stretch knitted fabric The stretch stress of the stretch knitted fabric was measured by the following method.
Sample size: length 100 mm (excluding gripping part), width 25 mm
Tensile tester: Tensilon tensile tester (RTC-1210A manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.)
Initial load: 0.1N
Pulling speed: 300mm / min
Tensile length and measurement: Stretch to 80% elongation, return to the original length after stretching at the same speed (recover), repeat stretching and recovery three times under these conditions, and the third stretching stress value at 80% stretching Asked. Further, when the stretching stress in the knitting warp direction at 80% for the third time at 80% repetitive stretching is S2 (cN) and the stretching stress in the knitting fabric direction is S1 (cN), the following formula:
Tensile stress ratio (-) = S2 / S1
Thus, the tensile stress ratio was obtained.

(4) Stretch recovery rate of stretch knitted fabric The third residual elongation (%) is read from the stretch recovery curve obtained by the stretch stress test method of each part of the stretch knitted fabric, and the following formula:
Elongation recovery rate (%) = [(80− (residual elongation)) ÷ 80] × 100
Determined by The residual elongation is the elongation rate when the load becomes 0 cN during the third recovery.

(5) Measurement of tensile stress of raw yarn of elastic yarn The physical property of the raw yarn when determining the strength of power of two kinds of elastic yarn was measured by the following method.
Sample size: 100 mm in length (excluding the gripping portion), and the width varies depending on the thickness of the raw yarn.
Tensile tester: Tensilon tensile tester (RTC-1210A manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.)
Initial load: 0.1N
Pulling speed: 300mm / min
Tensile length and measurement: Stretched at a constant speed, the tensile stress value until the elastic yarn breaks was determined, and the load at 200% elongation was determined. The magnitude of this load was compared between two types of elastic yarns, and the one with a large load was designated as the first elastic yarn, and the one with a small load was designated as the second elastic yarn.

により、編地タテ・ヨコ方向のそれぞれにて求めた。 (6) 10-point average roughness (Rz _JIS ) of the design part in the stretch knitted fabric
The roughness curve of the design part in the stretch knitted fabric was measured by the following method.
Sample size: 10cm x 10cm
Roughness measuring instrument: One-shot 3D microscope (Keyence Corporation VR-3200)
Magnification: 12 times Evaluation length: 3 cm in the knitted fabric direction, 4 cm in the knitted fabric warp direction
Measurement: Measure the knitted fabric in the vertical and horizontal directions under the above-mentioned conditions, and obtain the average of the highest peak height (Zpi) from the highest peak to the fifth highest in the roughness curve and the fifth from the deepest bottom. The ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS , which is the sum of the averages of valley depths (Zvi) up to

According to the above, it was determined in each of the knitted fabric vertical and horizontal directions.

(7) Evaluation of body shape correction effect Girdle was produced using the knitted fabric obtained by the following examples and comparative examples, and the wearing test was done by five panelists. When not worn, mark the waist, hips and thighs of each subject, measure the perimeter, let each subject wear a girdle, and wear the waist, hips and thighs of each subject after wearing Was measured. Then, the total value of the amount of compensation for each part was calculated. The compensation rate was determined by the following formula:
Compensation rate (%) = {peripheral length when not worn (cm) −perimeter length when worn} / perimeter length when not worn (cm) × 100
The correction ratios of the waist, hips, and thighs were calculated, and the total effect was used to evaluate the correction effect according to the following evaluation criteria. The higher the score, the higher the compensation effect. Table 3 below shows the average score obtained from five panelists.
5 (4.0% ≦ total value of compensation rate): sufficient compensation effect 4 (3.0% ≦ total value of compensation rate <4.0%): compensation effect 3 (2.0% ≦ compensation rate) Total value <3.0%): Slightly weakening effect 2 (1.0% ≦ Total value of correction rate <2.0%): Low correction effect 1 (Total value of correction rate <1.0%) ): Compensation effect is very weak

(8) Feeling of stuffiness A girdle was produced using the knitted fabric obtained in the following examples and comparative examples, and was worn by five panelists. After that, walking on the treadmill at a speed of 4.0 km / h for 3 minutes, standing up from the chair with knee flexion and extension, and sitting down 5 times, crouched from standing to holding the knee. After performing the act of getting up after 5 times, a questionnaire survey was conducted. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey of movement feeling when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. Table 3 below shows the average score obtained from five panelists.
5: No stuffiness 4: Slight stuffiness 3: Feeling stuffy 2: Slightly stuffy 1: Very stuffy

(9) Touch It tested by the method similar to evaluation of the said stuffiness. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey of movement feeling when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. Table 3 below shows the average score obtained from five panelists.
5: Very good touch 4: Good touch 3: Not good touch, not bad 2: Slight touch 1: Bad touch

(10) Operation feeling It tested by the method similar to evaluation of the said stuffiness. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey of movement feeling when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. Table 3 below shows the average score obtained from five panelists.
5: Very easy to move 4: Easy to move 3: Not easy to move and difficult to move 2: Slightly difficult to move 1: Difficult to move

(11) Compensation feeling It tested by the method similar to evaluation of the said damp feeling. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey on the feeling of compensation when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. Table 3 below shows the average score obtained from five panelists.
5: I feel a very strong compensation force 4: A little feel the correction force 3: The correction force is not enough, but I can feel it 2: The compensation force is a little insufficient 1: The compensation force is not felt

(12) Estheticity It was tested by the same method as the evaluation of the stuffiness. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire on the aesthetics of the bottom when picked up and worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. Table 3 below shows the average score obtained from five panelists.
5: Feels very beautiful 4: Feels somewhat beautiful 3: Can't say either 2: Doesn't feel so clean 1: Doesn't feel clean at all

(13) Comfort feeling Tested in the same manner as in the evaluation of the stuffiness. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey on comfort when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. Table 3 below shows the average score obtained from five panelists.
5: Very comfortable 4: Comfortable 3: Not comfortable but not uncomfortable 2: Slightly uncomfortable 1: Uncomfortable

[Example 1]
Using a 28-gauge Jacquard Raschel machine, nylon 33dtex / 26f is used as the ground yarn (GB1), and polyurethane elastic yarn 22dtex / 2f whose main chain is PTMG is the yarn used for the jacquard (JB2) 22dtex / 2f And a covering yarn made of nylon 56 dtex / 40f, which is an inelastic yarn, was used. As an elastic yarn for improving stretchability in two directions, a polyurethane elastic yarn 310 dtex / 36f is used as a first elastic yarn (GB3), and a second elastic yarn (GB4) is used as two diol components on the same carbon. Polyurethane elastic yarn 44dtex / 4f containing polyalkylene ether diol having a methyl group as a side chain was used as an insertion yarn. Yarn usage is shown in Table 1 below. The knitted structure was knitted with the structure shown in FIG. 1, and after relaxing, pre-setting, and dyeing, a knitted fabric was produced so that the final course would be 54 courses / inch and 88 wells / inch. The knitted fabric has a repeated pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeated pattern in the horizontal direction was 45 cm.

As shown in Table 2 below, the air flow rate of the knitted fabric was 261 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD was 5.31 in the warp direction and 6.25 in the warp direction. . In addition, the stretch stress S2 in the warp direction in the third 80% at the time of 80% repeat elongation was 554 cN, and the stretch stress S1 in the transverse direction was 221 cN. For this reason, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the vertical extensional stress to the horizontal extensional stress, was 2.5. The stretch recovery rate was 97% in the warp direction and 92% in the warp direction. The ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the design part surface was 362 μm in the knitted fabric vertical direction and 325 μm in the knitted fabric horizontal direction.

  Moreover, the girdle was produced from the same knitted fabric using the pattern paper corresponding to the general M size girdle shown in FIG. 4, and the wearing test was implemented. The girdle is made of one piece of fabric, and in the abdomen reinforcement part (101), the same pattern is made of the same fabric, and the upper and lower ends are sewn with the girdle body (100). Two parts were produced. As shown in Table 3 below, in addition to the feeling of stuffiness and the touch, the bottom also had high compensation. In addition, a bottom garment having a high level of comfort, feeling of operation and aesthetics at the time of wearing was obtained. At the time of making the girdle, the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric was used as the vertical direction (height direction) of the clothing product.

[Example 2]
The knitted fabric of Example 1 is knitted, relaxed, pre-set, dyed, and processed so that the warp direction of the knitted fabric is 10% longer than that of Example 1 during the heat setting for finishing, and finally 50 courses after the heat setting. A knitted fabric was prepared so as to be / inch, 87 well / inch. The yarn usage is shown in Table 1 below, and the knitting structure is shown in FIG.
As shown in Table 2 below, the air flow rate of the produced knitted fabric is 312 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and SMD is 7.44 in the knitted fabric warp direction and 17.81 in the knitted fabric width direction. there were. In addition, at 80% for the third time at 80% repeated elongation, the tensile stress S2 in the knitted fabric warp direction was 661 cN, and the tensile stress S1 in the transverse direction was 197 cN. For this reason, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the vertical extension stress to the horizontal extension stress, was 3.4. The stretch recovery rate was 96% in the warp direction and 92% in the warp direction. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the design portion surface, it was 411 μm in the knitted fabric warp direction and 398 μm in the knitted fabric width direction.
Further, from the same knitted fabric, a girdle was produced using a pattern corresponding to a generally M size girdle shown in FIG. As shown in Table 3 below, in addition to the feeling of stuffiness and the touch, the bottom also had high compensation. In addition, a bottom garment having a high feeling of correction, a feeling of movement and aesthetics at the time of wearing and a very high feeling of comfort was obtained. At the time of making the girdle, the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric was used as the vertical direction (height direction) of the clothing product.

[Example 3]
Using a 28-gauge Jacquard Raschel machine, nylon 33 dtex / 26f is used as the ground yarn (GB1), polyurethane elastic yarn 22 dtex / 2f is used as the core yarn, and yarn used in the jacquard (JB2) is a non-elastic yarn. A covering yarn having a nylon 56 dtex / 40f as a covering yarn was used. As elastic yarns for improving the stretchability in two directions, the first elastic yarn (GB3), the polyurethane elastic yarn 470 dtex / 36f, the second elastic yarn (GB4), the polyurethane elastic yarn 44 dtex / 4f as the insertion yarn used. From the yarn usage shown in Table 1 and the knitting structure shown in FIG. 1, the knitted fabric is knitted, relaxed, pre-set, dyed, and finally finished to 54 courses / inch and 88 wells / inch after heat setting. A knitted fabric was prepared. The knitted fabric has a repeated pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeated pattern in the horizontal direction was 45 cm.

As shown in Table 2 below, the air flow rate of the prepared knitted fabric is 246 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 7.42 in the knitted fabric vertical direction and 8.76 in the knitted fabric horizontal direction. there were. In addition, at the time of 80% repetitive elongation, 80% of the third time, the tensile stress S2 in the knitting warp direction was 896 cN, and the tensile stress S1 in the transverse direction was 238 cN. For this reason, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the vertical extension stress to the horizontal extension stress, was 3.8. The stretch recovery rate was 97% in the warp direction and 92% in the warp direction. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the design portion surface, it was 436 μm in the knitted fabric warp direction and 405 μm in the knitted fabric horizontal direction.
Further, from the same knitted fabric, a girdle was produced using a pattern corresponding to a general M size girdle shown in FIG. As shown in Table 3 below, in addition to the feeling of stuffiness and the touch, the bottom also had high compensation. In addition, a bottom garment having a high feeling of correction, a feeling of movement and aesthetics at the time of wearing and a very high feeling of comfort was obtained. At the time of making the girdle, the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric was used as the vertical direction (height direction) of the clothing product.

[Example 4]
Using a 28-gauge Jacquard Raschel machine, nylon 33 dtex / 26f is used as the ground yarn (GB1), polyurethane elastic yarn 22 dtex / 2f is used as the core yarn, and yarn used in the jacquard (JB2) is a non-elastic yarn. A covering yarn having a nylon 56 dtex / 40f as a covering yarn was used. As elastic yarns for improving the stretchability in two directions, the first elastic yarn (GB3), the polyurethane elastic yarn 310dtex / 36f, the second elastic yarn (GB4), the polyurethane elastic yarn 78dtex / 8f as the insertion yarn used. From the yarn usage shown in Table 1 below and the knitting structure shown in FIG. 1, the knitted fabric is knitted, relaxed, pre-set, dyed, and finally heat-set for finishing 54 courses / inch, 88 wells / inch. A knitted fabric was prepared. The knitted fabric has a repeated pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeated pattern in the horizontal direction was 45 cm.

As shown in Table 2 below, the air flow rate of the manufactured knitted fabric is 195 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 5.89 in the knitted fabric warp direction and 6.14 in the knitted fabric horizontal direction. there were. In addition, the extension stress S2 in the warp direction in the third 80% at the time of 80% repetition extension was 682 cN, and the extension stress S1 in the transverse direction was 483 cN. For this reason, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the vertical extension stress to the horizontal extension stress, was 1.4. Further, the stretch recovery rate was 96% in the warp direction and 93% in the warp direction. The ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the design portion surface was 413 μm in the knitted fabric warp direction and 321 μm in the knitted fabric width direction.
Further, from the same knitted fabric, a girdle was produced using a pattern corresponding to a general M size girdle shown in FIG. Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, in addition to the feeling of stuffiness and the touch, the bottom also had high compensation. In addition, a bottom garment having a high level of comfort, feeling of operation and aesthetics at the time of wearing was obtained. At the time of making the girdle, the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric was used as the vertical direction (height direction) of the clothing product.

[Example 5]
Using a 28-gauge Jacquard Raschel machine, nylon 33 dtex / 26f is used as the ground yarn (GB1), polyurethane elastic yarn 22 dtex / 2f is used as the core yarn, and yarn used in the jacquard (JB2) is a non-elastic yarn. A covering yarn having a nylon 56 dtex / 40f as a covering yarn was used. As elastic yarns for improving the stretchability in two directions, the first elastic yarn (GB3), the polyurethane elastic yarn 620 dtex / 72f, the second elastic yarn (GB4), the polyurethane elastic yarn 44 dtex / 4f as the insertion yarn used. From the yarn usage shown in Table 1 below and the knitting structure shown in FIG. 1, the knitted fabric is knitted, relaxed, pre-set, dyed, and finally heat-set for finishing 54 courses / inch, 88 wells / inch. A knitted fabric was prepared. The knitted fabric has a repeated pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeated pattern in the horizontal direction was 45 cm.

As shown in Table 2 below, the air flow rate of the produced knitted fabric is 291 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 5.53 in the knitted fabric warp direction and 6.32 in the knitted fabric transverse direction. there were. In addition, the stretch stress S2 in the warp direction in the third 80% at the time of 80% repeat elongation was 1103 cN, and the stretch stress S1 in the transverse direction was 189 cN. For this reason, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the vertical extension stress to the horizontal extension stress, was 5.8. The stretch recovery rate was 96% in the warp direction and 92% in the warp direction. The ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the design portion surface was 373 μm in the knitted fabric warp direction and 336 μm in the knitted fabric horizontal direction.
Further, from the same knitted fabric, a girdle was produced using a pattern corresponding to a general M size girdle shown in FIG. As shown in Table 3 below, in addition to the feeling of stuffiness and the touch, the bottom also had high compensation. In addition, a bottom garment having a high level of comfort, feeling of operation and aesthetics at the time of wearing was obtained. At the time of making the girdle, the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric was used as the vertical direction (height direction) of the clothing product.

[Example 6]
Using a 28-gauge Jacquard Raschel machine, nylon 33 dtex / 26f is used as the ground yarn (GB1), polyurethane elastic yarn 22 dtex / 2f is used as the core yarn, and yarn used in the jacquard (JB2) is a non-elastic yarn. A covering yarn having a nylon 56 dtex / 40f as a covering yarn was used. As elastic yarns for improving stretchability in two directions, first elastic yarn (GB3), polyurethane elastic yarn 235dtex / 18f, second elastic yarn (GB4), polyurethane elastic yarn 44dtex / 4f as insertion yarn used. From the yarn usage shown in Table 1 below and the knitting structure shown in FIG. 1, the knitted fabric is knitted, relaxed, pre-set, dyed, and finally set to 63 courses / inch, 84 wells / inch after the heat set for finishing. A knitted fabric was prepared as follows. The knitted fabric has a repeated pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeated pattern in the horizontal direction was 45 cm.

As shown in Table 2 below, the air flow rate of the produced knitted fabric is 270 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 5.23 in the knitted fabric vertical direction and 6.34 in the knitted fabric horizontal direction. there were. In addition, at the time of 80% repetitive stretching, the stretching stress S2 in the warp direction in the third 80% was 314 cN, and the stretching stress S1 in the transverse direction was 306 cN. For this reason, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the vertical extension stress to the horizontal extension stress, was 1.0. The stretch recovery rate was 96% in the warp direction and 88% in the warp direction. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the surface of the design part, it was 351 μm in the knitted fabric warp direction and 332 μm in the knitted fabric horizontal direction.
Further, from the same knitted fabric, a girdle was produced using a pattern corresponding to a general M size girdle shown in FIG. Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, in addition to the feeling of stuffiness and touch, the bottom was also high in operability. In addition, a bottom garment having a high level of comfort, feeling of operation and aesthetics at the time of wearing was obtained. At the time of making the girdle, the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric was used as the vertical direction (height direction) of the clothing product.

[Comparative Example 1]
Using a 20-gauge Raschel knitting machine, nylon 44 dtex / 34f is used as the ground yarn, nylon 56 dtex / 48f is used as the inelastic yarn, and 60th Nishiki and polyurethane is the polyurethane as the elastic yarn. Fabricate and use core spun yarn with 235 dtex / 18f elastic yarn, knitted fabric with the structure shown in Fig. 2, relax, pre-set, dye, and finally finish after heat setting 140 course / The knitted fabric was prepared so as to be 23 inches / inch. Yarn usage is shown in Table 1 below.

As shown in Table 2 below, the air flow rate of the obtained knitted fabric is 327 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 11.07 in the knitted fabric warp direction and 20.00 in the knitted fabric horizontal direction. Met. At the third 80% elongation at 80% repetition, the knitting warp direction stretching stress S2 was 227 cN, and the transverse stretching stress S1 was 3686 cN. For this reason, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the extension stress to the extension stress in the horizontal direction, was 0.1. The stretch recovery rate was 87% in the warp direction and 44% in the warp direction. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the design portion surface, measurement was not possible because there was no pattern.
Further, from the same knitted fabric, a girdle was produced using a pattern corresponding to a general M size girdle shown in FIG. As shown in Table 3 below, a bottom garment having excellent feeling of stuffiness but low touch, feeling of operation and aesthetics and low comfort was obtained. The reason is that the mesh hole is large and feels rough on the skin surface, the elongation ratio is bad, and the vertical stress of the product is high during operation. That is, it is considered that aesthetics are low. When the girdle was made, the knitted fabric side direction was used as the vertical direction (height direction) of the clothing product.

[Comparative Example 2]
Using a 28-gauge Raschel knitting machine, nylon 56dtex / 17f is used as the ground yarn, polyurethane elastic yarn 235dtex / 18f is used as the insertion yarn, the first elastic yarn (GB3), and polyurethane elastic yarn 44dtex / 4f is the second elastic Used as yarn (GB4). As shown in Fig. 3, the two knitted fabrics (GB1) and (GB2) are threaded through a 1-in-1-out half set, and knitted over three wells to form a knitted stitch. Then, 1 repeat mesh knitted fabric is knitted in 6 courses, and the 1st elastic yarn (GB3) is inserted as partial wefts across 3 courses, 3 wells every 6 courses, from the 1st elastic yarn (GB3) The thin second elastic yarn (GB4) was knitted by being inserted in a zigzag shape on the same well. The first elastic yarn (GB3) and the second elastic yarn (GB4) are threaded through the full set, knitted fabric, relaxed, pre-set, dyed, and finally finished after 168 courses. A mesh-like elastic warp knitted fabric was obtained by producing a 50-inch / inch knitted fabric. Yarn usage is shown in Table 1 below.
As shown in Table 2 below, the air flow rate of the obtained knitted fabric is 124 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 8.02 in the knitted fabric vertical direction and 14.27 in the knitted fabric horizontal direction. Met. At the time of 80% repeated stretching, the stretching stress S2 in the warp direction in the third 80% was 619 cN, and the stretching stress S1 in the transverse direction was 679 cN. For this reason, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the extension stress to the extension stress in the horizontal direction, was 0.9. The stretch recovery rate was 93% in the warp direction and 89% in the warp direction. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the design portion surface, it was 783 μm in the warp direction and 769 μm in the warp direction.
Further, from the same knitted fabric, a girdle was produced using a pattern corresponding to a general M size girdle shown in FIG. As shown in Table 3 below, a bottom garment having a low feeling of comfort was obtained. This may be due to the fact that in order to obtain excellent stretch characteristics, the structure becomes dense, the feeling of stuffiness is poor, and the roughness peculiar to the mesh is felt uncomfortable. When the girdle was made, the knitted fabric side direction was used as the vertical direction (height direction) of the clothing product.

By using the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention, in addition to being excellent in the reduction of stuffiness and the feel when worn, it also has a high level of compensation (feel) but without compromising the operation comfort, High bottom clothing can be made.
In addition, the stretch knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited to body shape garments such as girdles, but is used for inner purposes such as close contact with the body, in addition to being excellent in reducing stuffiness and feeling when worn. Clothes with high wearing comfort can be produced because of good nature (feel).

Claims (5)

The air flow rate is 130 to 500 cm ³ / cm ² / s, the average deviation (SMD) of the roughness in the knitted fabric warp direction or the knitted fabric width direction is 10.0 or less, and the third time when stretching 80% repeatedly When the stretching stress in the knitted fabric direction is S1 and the stretching stress in the knitted fabric warp direction is S2, the stretching ratio is characterized by S2 / S1 being more than 2.0 to 8.0. Sexual knitting fabric.   The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the stretching stress S2 in the warp direction in the third 80% at the time of 80% repeated stretching is more than 450 cN to 1000 cN. The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a ten-point average roughness (Rz _JIS ) obtained from a roughness curve on the surface of the design portion in the knitted fabric warp direction and the knitted fabric transverse direction is 500 µm or less.   Chain knitting with inelastic yarn moves between the wells every odd number of 3 to 7 courses, and two types of elastic yarns with different power strengths are inserted, and the elastic yarn with the stronger power accompanies the inelastic yarn In addition, the elastic yarn having the weaker power has a structure that moves 1 to 3 wells between the rows of the chain stitch structure of the inelastic yarn accompanied by the elastic yarn having the stronger power. The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of the above.   The clothing containing the elastic warp knitted fabric of any one of Claims 1-4.

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