JP2016008188A - Skin texture improving agent, epidermis turnover improving agent, epidermis barrier function improving agent, antioxidant, and external preparation for skin - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a material which can improve the skin texture safely and efficiently by promoting the expression of an epidermis turnover improvement-related factor, an epidermis barrier function improvement-related factor, and an antioxidation-related factor.SOLUTION: The invention relates to a skin texture improving agent, epidermis turnover improving agent, epidermis barrier function improving agent, and antioxidant which contain hydroxylation lecithin as an active ingredient. The invention also relates to an external preparation for skin containing hydroxylation lecithin, one or more kinds of fatty acid with a carbon number of 10-22, one or more kinds of fatty acid triglyceride, and squalane, yellow beeswax, and jojoba oil.

Description

  The present invention relates to a skin texture improving agent, an epidermis turnover improving agent, an epidermis barrier function improving agent, an antioxidant, and an external preparation for skin, containing hydroxy lecithin as an active ingredient.

It is known that cosmetics containing hydroxylated lecithin are excellent in safety, moisture retention and touch (Patent Document 1 JP-A-6-116116).
It is known that with human aging, a decrease in epidermal turnover, a decrease in epidermal barrier function, and a decrease in antioxidant function are observed. In addition, in an aging society, the desire of women who want to be beautiful forever is increasing year by year. Therefore, there is a great need for the development of ingredients that are highly safe and have higher aging prevention and improvement effects.

JP-A-6-116116

  An object of the present invention is to provide a material that can improve the texture safely and efficiently by promoting the expression of an epidermal turnover improvement-related factor, an epidermal barrier function improvement-related factor, and an antioxidant-related factor.

  As a result of studying various components derived from the natural environment, the present inventors have found that hydroxylated lecithin can express the expression of epidermal turnover improving factor, epidermal barrier function improving factor, and antioxidant related factor in human epidermal cells. It has been found that it is remarkably accelerated, and the present invention has been completed.

  That is, the present invention relates to a skin texture improving agent, an epidermis turnover improving agent, an epidermis barrier function improving agent, and an antioxidant, which contain hydroxy lecithin as an active ingredient.

  Furthermore, the present invention relates to a skin external preparation containing hydroxylated lecithin, one or more fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, one or more fatty acid triglycerides, squalane, beeswax, and jojoba oil. .

  The skin texture-improving agent of the present invention exerts the effect of preparing the texture safely and efficiently by promoting the expression of an epidermis turnover improvement-related factor, an epidermis barrier function improvement-related factor, and an antioxidant-related factor in the epidermis.

  Hydroxy lecithin is a hydroxyl group introduced into an unsaturated carbon chain in lecithin. Examples include hydroxylated soybean lecithin and hydroxylated egg yolk lecithin. From the viewpoint of the effect of the present invention, it is preferable to use hydroxylated soybean lecithin.

  The lecithin hydroxide, which is an active ingredient in the texture improving agent of the present invention, is one or more fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, one or more fatty acid triglycerides, squalane, beeswax, and jojoba oil. The moisturizing effect is synergistically improved by blending with a skin external preparation containing

Examples of fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms include decanoic acid (capric acid), undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), heptadecanoic acid (margaric acid) ), Straight-chain saturated fatty acids such as octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachinic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), 9-decenoic acid (caproleic acid), 9-undecenoic acid (9-undecylenic acid), 10 -Undecenoic acid (10-undecylene acid), 2-dodecenoic acid (2-laurolenic acid), 5-dodecenoic acid (5-laurolenic acid), 11-dodecenoic acid (11-laurolenic acid), 5-tetradecenoic acid (5- Myristoleic acid), 9-tetradecenoic acid (9-myristoleic acid), 2-hexadecenoic acid (2-palmitoleic acid), cis-7-hexadecenoic acid (7-palmitoleic acid) ), Cis-6-octadecenoic acid (petroceric acid), trans-6-octadecenoic acid (petroceleic acid), cis-9-octadecenoic acid (oleic acid), trans-9-octadecenoic acid (elaidic acid), cis- Linear monoenoic acid such as 13-docosenoic acid (erucic acid), trans-13-docosenoic acid (brassic acid), cis-9-, cis-12-octadecadienoic acid (linoleic acid), trans-9-, trans Dienoic acids such as -12-octadecadienoic acid (linoelaidic acid), cis-9, cis-12, cis-15-octadecatrienoic acid (linolenic acid), trans-9, trans-12, trans-15- Examples include trienoic acids such as octadecatrienoic acid (linolenic elaidic acid), fatty acids having branched chains such as isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, and the like. Commercially available products for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals can be used. In the present invention, one or more of these are selected and used. From the viewpoint of the effects of the present invention, it is most preferable to use stearic acid.

Examples of the fatty acid triglyceride used in the present invention include glyceryl triacetylhydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetylricinoleate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl triundecanoate, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, and glyceryl trioleate. , Glyceryl tri (capryl, caprine, isostearin, adipic acid), glyceryl tri (caprylic acid, capric acid), glyceryl tri (capryl, caprin, myristine, stearic acid), glyceryl tri (capryl, caprin, lauric acid), tri ( Capryl, Caprin, Linoleic acid) Glyceryl, Tricaprylate glyceryl, Tricaprylate glyceryl, Tri beef tallow fatty acid glyceryl, Tri (beef tallow fatty acid, mink oil fatty acid, cod liver oil Fatty acid) glyceryl, glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl tri-2-heptylundecanoate, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tri (mink oil fatty acid / palmitic acid), triglyceride fatty acid glyceryl, glyceryl trilaurate , Trilanolin fatty acid glyceryl, tri (ricinolein, capron, capryl, capric acid) glyceryl, trilinoleic acid glyceryl, hydrogenated tri fatty acid (C12-18) glyceryl, (hydrogenated rosin / diisostearic acid) glyceryl, tri (caprylic acid / caprin) Acid / stearic acid) glyceryl, tri (caprylic acid / capric acid / myristic acid / stearic acid) glyceryl, tri (caprylic acid / capric acid / lauric acid) glyceryl, tri (caprylic acid / Capric acid / linoleic acid) glyceryl, tri fatty acid (C10-18) glyceryl, tri fatty acid (C12-18) glyceryl, tri fatty acid (C12-20) glyceryl, tri fatty acid (C18-36) glyceryl, tri (palm oil fatty acid / Palm kernel oil fatty acid / olive oil fatty acid / macadamia nut oil fatty acid / rape seed oil fatty acid) glyceryl, tri (castor fatty acid / olive fatty acid) glyceryl, tri-branched fatty acid (C10-40) glyceryl, tri-branched fatty acid (C12-31) glyceryl, tri (Behenic acid / isostearic acid / eicosandioic acid) glyceryl, tri (mink fatty acid / palmitic acid) glyceryl, tri (ricinoleic acid / caproic acid / caprylic acid / capric acid) glyceryl Has been It is possible to use things. In the present invention, one or more of these are selected and used. From the viewpoint of the effect of the present invention, it is most preferable to use glyceryl tri (palm oil fatty acid / palm kernel oil fatty acid / olive oil fatty acid / macadamia nut oil fatty acid / rape seed oil fatty acid).

Squalane is 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane, and commercial cosmetics and pharmaceutical raw materials can be used, but hydrogen is added to squalene extracted from the deep-sea shark liver and olive fruit. Can be preferably used.

Beeswax is a secreted bee such as Apis indica Radoszkowski, Apis mellifera L., etc., and the crude wax separated by boiling the nest without the nectar is purified or bleached by sunlight. Manufactured. In the present invention, it is preferable to use a deodorized, refined product or a super refined product that is commercially available as a raw material for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Jojoba oil is a liquid wax extracted from the seeds of jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis or Simmondsia californica Nuttall). Commercially available raw materials for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals can be used.

In the external preparation for skin of the present invention, one or more of the aforementioned fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, one or more of fatty acid triglycerides, squalane, beeswax, and jojoba oil are contained as essential oil components. Let The blending amount and blending ratio in the total amount of these oily components can be appropriately determined according to the dosage form of the external preparation for skin.

  In addition to the essential components described above, the external preparation for skin of the present invention is usually mixed with an external preparation for skin as needed, an aqueous component, an oily component, a moisturizer, a dye, a surfactant, an ultraviolet absorber, a thickening agent. Agents, cosmetic ingredients, fragrances, polymer substances, antibacterial and antimicrobial agents, alcohols, powders, scrub agents, biogenic ingredients, and the like can be appropriately blended.

  Examples of the present invention will be described in detail below, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

[Confirmation of expression of skin related factors]
The expression of the texture related genes was confirmed by the following procedure.
Human epidermal keratinocytes were seeded in a 6-well plate at 3 × 10 ⁵ cells / well and cultured overnight in DMEM medium containing 5% FBS. The medium was replaced with a medium in which hydroxylated lecithin was dissolved, and the cells were cultured in a 37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ incubator for 24 hours. Total RNA extraction from cells was prepared using Trizol reagent according to the protocol of Life Technologies. After cDNA synthesis, gene expression was confirmed by real-time PCR using the primers shown in Tables 1 to 3 below. GAPDH shown in Table 3 below was used as an internal standard. Moreover, the addition amount to the culture medium of the hydroxylated lecithin was made into the addition amount which does not show cytotoxicity by single addition. As a control, the same experiment was performed in a medium without added lecithin hydroxide, and after calculating a relative value with the expression level of the control being 1, the presence or absence of a significant difference from the control was confirmed by t-test. Shown in ~ 3

  As shown in Table 1, hydroxylated lecithin significantly promoted the expression of genes related to epidermal turnover, and an effect of improving epidermal turnover was expected.

As shown in Table 2, hydroxylated lecithin significantly promoted the expression of genes related to the barrier function of the epidermis, and an effect of improving the epidermal barrier function was expected.

As shown in Table 3, hydroxylated lecithin significantly promoted the expression of genes related to the antioxidant function, and an antioxidant effect was expected.

[Example 1] Cleansing cream (1) Stearic acid 1.60 (mass%)
(2) Palmitic acid 1.30
(3) Avian (beef tallow fatty acid, mink oil fatty acid, cod liver oil
Fatty acid) Glyceryl 3.80
(4) Squalane 40.00
(5) Deodorized and refined beeswax 6.00
(6) Jojoba oil 4.30
(7) Cetanol 1.20
(8) Tocopherol acetate 0.10
(9) Glyceryl monostearate 0.80
(10) 1,3-butylene glycol 3.00
(11) Glycerin 8.00
(12) L-arginine 0.30
(13) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
(14) Lecithin hydroxide 0.05
(15) Purified water Amount to make the total amount 100.00 (16) Fragrance 0.10
Production method: The oil phase components (1) to (9) are mixed and dissolved by heating to 85 ° C. On the other hand, the water phase components (10) to (15) are mixed, dissolved, and heated to 85 ° C. The oil phase is gradually added to the aqueous phase component and pre-emulsified, and then uniformly emulsified with a homomixer, cooled, and (16) is added and mixed at 40 ° C.

[Example 2] Cleansing lotion (1) Ethanol 15.00 (mass%)
(2) Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan
Monolaurate 1.50
(3) Polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene
Block polymer 1.50
(4) Isostearic acid 0.05
(5) Tri (capryl / capric acid) glyceryl 0.05
(6) Squalane 0.10
(7) Jojoba oil 0.10
(8) Deodorized and refined beeswax 0.01
(9) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
(10) Fragrance 0.05
(11) Glycerin 5.00
(12) 1,3-butylene glycol 10.00
(13) Sodium citrate 0.01
(14) Lecithin hydroxide 0.02
(15) Purified water Mass production method with a total volume of 100.00: Mix and dissolve (2) to (10) in (1) to make the ethanol phase. On the other hand, (11) to (15) are mixed and dissolved to form an aqueous phase, and the ethanol phase is added to the aqueous phase to solubilize.

[Example 3] Cleansing foam (1) Stearic acid 10.00 (mass%)
(2) Palmitic acid 10.00
(3) Myristic acid 12.00
(4) Lauric acid 4.00
(5) Glyceryl triundecanoate 0.30
(6) Squalane 1.00
(7) Deodorized and refined beeswax 0.20
(8) Jojoba oil 2.00
(9) Polyethylene glycol (average molecular weight 1,500) 10.00
(10) Glycerin 15.00
(11) Potassium hydroxide 6.00
(12) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
(13) Hydroxy lecithin 0.05
(14) Purified water Amount to make the total amount 100.00 (15) Glyceryl monostearate 2.00
(16) Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan
Monostearate 2.00
(17) Fragrance 0.10
Production method: (1) to (10) are mixed and dissolved by heating to 70 ° C. (11) to (13) are dissolved in (14), and the oil phase is added with stirring to allow a sufficient neutralization reaction. Next, (15) and (16) are added, and after cooling, (17) is added and mixed at 40 ° C.

[Example 4] Lotion (1) Ethanol 10.00 (mass%)
(2) Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate 1.50
(3) Undecylenic acid 0.05
(4) Glyceryl triisostearate 0.05
(5) Squalane 0.10
(6) Deodorized and refined beeswax 0.02
(7) Jojoba oil 0.10
(8) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
(9) Fragrance 0.05
(10) 1,3-butylene glycol 6.00
(11) Glycerin 4.00
(12) Lecithin hydroxide 0.10
(13) Purified water Mass production method with a total amount of 100.00: (2) to (9) are mixed and dissolved in (1) to make the ethanol phase. On the other hand, (10) to (13) are uniformly mixed and dissolved to obtain an aqueous phase. The ethanol phase is added to the aqueous phase and mixed uniformly.

Example 5 Emulsion (1) Stearic acid 2.70 (mass%)
(2) Tricoconut oil fatty acid glyceryl 1.50
(3) Squalane 3.00
(4) Deodorized and refined beeswax 2.00
(5) Jojoba oil 2.00
(6) Cetanol 1.00
(7) Glycerin 5.00
(8) L-arginine 0.40
(9) Monosodium N-stearoyl glutamate 0.30
(10) Lecithin hydroxide 0.20
(11) Purified water Amount to make the total amount 100.00 (12) Ethanol 4.00
(13) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
(14) Fragrance 0.10
Production method: The oil phase components (1) to (6) are mixed and dissolved by heating to 75 ° C. On the other hand, the aqueous phase components (7) to (11) are mixed and dissolved to 75 ° C. The oil phase is added thereto, emulsified with a homomixer, cooled, and (12) to (14) are added and mixed at 40 ° C.

[Example 6] Cream (1) Stearic acid 3.00 (mass%)
(2) Bird (Palm oil fatty acid / Palm kernel oil fatty acid /
Olive oil fatty acid / Macadamia nut oil fatty acid /
Oilseed rapeseed fatty acid) Glyceryl 7.00
(3) Squalane 10.00
(4) Deodorized and refined beeswax 2.00
(5) Jojoba oil 3.00
(6) Cetanol 5.00
(7) Propylene glycol monostearic acid ester 3.00
(8) Polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether 3.00
(9) d-δ-tocopherol 0.15
(10) 1,3-butylene glycol 5.00
(11) Glycerin 5.00
(12) Potassium hydroxide 0.20
(13) Lecithin hydroxide 0.30
(14) Purified water Amount to make the total amount 100.00 (15) Fragrance 0.10
Production method: The oil phase components (1) to (9) are mixed and dissolved by heating to 70 ° C. On the other hand, the water phase components (10) to (14) are mixed and dissolved, and then heated to 70 ° C., and the oil phase is added thereto to emulsify. After cooling, add (15) at 40 ° C and mix.

[Example 7] Packing agent (1) Polyvinyl acetate emulsion 15.00 (mass%)
(2) Polyvinyl alcohol 10.00
(3) Sorbitol 5.00
(4) Polyethylene glycol (average molecular weight 400) 5.00
(5) Lecithin hydroxide 0.20
(6) Amount of purified water to 100.00 (7) Titanium oxide 5.00
(8) Talc 10.00
(9) Ethanol 8.00
(10) Isopalmitic acid 0.20
(11) Glyceryl tristearate 0.25
(12) Squalane 2.00
(13) Deodorized and refined beeswax 0.05
(14) Jojoba oil 2.00
(15) Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan 1.00
Monostearic acid ester (16) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
(17) Fragrance 0.10
Production method: (3) to (5) are added to (6), (7) and (8) are dispersed and heated to 70 ° C., and then (1) and (2) are added and dissolved. Add (10) to (17) to (9), dissolve, add to the aqueous phase, mix and cool.

[Example 8] Water-in-oil emulsion (1) Microcrystalline wax 1.00 (% by mass)
(2) Behenic acid 2.00
(3) Trilanolin fatty acid glyceryl 2.00
(4) Squalane 25.00
(5) Deodorized and refined beeswax 2.00
(6) Jojoba oil 5.00
(7) Sorbitan sesquioleate ester 4.00
(8) Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan 1.00
Monooleate (9) Propylene glycol 7.00
(10) Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
(11) Lecithin hydroxide 0.50
(12) Purified water Quantity manufacturing method to make the total amount 100.00: The oil phase components (1) to (8) are mixed and dissolved by heating to 70 ° C. On the other hand, the aqueous phase components (9) to (12) are mixed and dissolved by heating to 70 ° C. This aqueous phase is added to the oil phase, emulsified with a homogenizer, and then cooled.

[Use test]
Comparative Examples 1 to 6 were prepared by substituting the hydrogenated lecithin for the hydroxylated lecithin blended in Examples 1 to 6. 10 women in their 20s to 40s as a group, Examples 1 to 6 or Comparative Examples 1 to 6 twice a day (Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 once a day), 1 Used continuously for months. The stratum corneum water content in the right cheek region was measured twice before use and after use. The average value of the water content after use with the water content before use as 1 was calculated and shown in Table 4 as the use test results.

  As described in Table 4, the example use group showed a higher moisture content increase rate than the comparative example use group, and it was shown that a high moisturizing effect was exhibited by adding hydroxylated lecithin.

Claims (5)

  A texture-improving agent containing lecithin hydroxide as an active ingredient.   An epidermis turnover normalizing agent comprising hydroxylated lecithin as an active ingredient.   An epidermis barrier function improver comprising hydroxylated lecithin as an active ingredient.   An antioxidant containing hydroxylated lecithin as an active ingredient.   A skin external preparation containing hydroxylated lecithin, one or more fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, one or more fatty acid triglycerides, squalane, beeswax, and jojoba oil.