JP2013209318A - Oily solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an oily solid cosmetic for improving dispersion of a pigment in a make-up cosmetic, particularly a casting cosmetic containing a chromatic pigment, and for suppressing color irregularity and giving retaining property of a cosmetic effect.SOLUTION: An oily solid cosmetic comprises (a) an inorganic pigment, (b) a surfactant having an HLB of 12 or more, and (c) an oil. The cosmetic suppresses color irregularity and shows excellent retaining property for a cosmetic effect.

Description

The oily solid cosmetic of the present invention is useful for makeup cosmetics, particularly cast cosmetics containing colored pigments, and more particularly relates to oily solid cosmetics excellent in pigment dispersibility.

Conventionally, oily solid cosmetics such as lipsticks, glosses, lip balms, foundations, makeup bases, pencil-type cosmetics, hair waxes, etc. have been known and are excellent in usability and portability. This is one of the widely used dosage forms.
Oil-based solid cosmetics used as foundations, makeup bases and the like have a finish with high color unevenness covering power and have a moisturizing feeling, and are solid and thus can be applied more easily than liquid cosmetics. Moreover, it has a feeling of use with a feeling of adhesion which is more moist than powder cosmetics. Due to these characteristics, oily solid cosmetics are widely accepted by many consumers, particularly in the elderly. Such makeup products contain colored pigments to hide skin problems such as stains and freckles, increase the appeal of people, and achieve a healthy skin tone.

Colored pigments can be broadly divided into inorganic pigments and organic pigments. Inorganic pigments are made from compounds such as earth, minerals, metal oxides and salts, and generally have poor coloring power but high hiding power, light resistance and heat resistance. Strongness such as sex is also strong. In addition, because of its natural color, it is often used in foundations. Organic pigments are mainly composed of organic compounds, and most of them are synthetic pigments synthesized using petroleum-based raw materials. Compared to inorganic pigments, they are rich in hue, vibrant and have coloring power, but are transparent and have a hiding power. Inferior.

Inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and other metal oxides, which are responsible for most of the optical effects of makeup products, have many hydrophilic parts on their surfaces, so it is difficult to adapt to oil-based solvents. Further, even if the pigment surface is treated with an oleophilic solution, it cannot be made completely oleophilic, so that these pigments aggregate in an oily solvent and cause poor dispersion. If the dispersion is poor, a specific pigment may be deposited on a surface having a different interface state or a portion having a different physical property on the surface, and streaky irregularities may appear on the surface of the cast cosmetic. Furthermore, there is a problem that the color of the casting surface in the virgin state and the lightness of the color below it are greatly different, and it is not possible to select a color that suits you.
For organic pigments, since the colored portion is basically oleophilic, problems such as color unevenness hardly occur in an oily solvent.

As a method of stably dispersing and blending a colored pigment in an oily solid cosmetic, generally, a method of uniformly dispersing it by applying a large mechanical force in the presence of a surfactant (Patent Document 1) or a surface treatment. A method for improving the dispersibility by giving a three-dimensional structure to the applied pigment surface (Patent Document 2), a method for treating the pigment surface to be lipophilic, or improving the dispersibility by pulverizing the pigment itself. Has been considered.

However, these techniques do not greatly improve the dispersion of metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide and iron oxide in oily solid cosmetics.

On the other hand, surfactants having an HLB of 12 or more have high hydrophilicity and have been used in cosmetics containing a large amount of water, but have not been incorporated into oily solid cosmetics.

JP2008-150293 Special table 2003-518024

It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic with good makeup that eliminates uneven color in an oily solid cosmetic containing an inorganic pigment.

In this situation, as a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that an oily solid cosmetic containing a high HLB surfactant can solve the above problems, and have completed the development.
That is, the present invention
<1>
An oily solid cosmetic comprising (a) an inorganic pigment, (b) a surfactant having an HLB of 12 or more, and (c) an oil.
<2>
The oily solid cosmetic according to <1>, wherein the component (b) is 0.5 to 2% by mass in the oily solid cosmetic.
<3>
Surfactant having an HLB of 12 or more in component (b) is polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester (20E.O.), polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (50E.O.), deisoglyceryl monoisostearate or polyoxyethylene The oily solid cosmetic as described in <1> or <2> above, which is one or more of methylpolysiloxane copolymer (12E.O.).

The oily solid cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in pigment dispersibility and excellent in makeup.

The present invention will be described in detail below.
Specific examples of inorganic pigments used in the present invention include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (Bengara), iron titanate, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, carbon black, low-order titanium oxide, and cobalt. Examples include violet, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate, ultramarine, and bitumen.

The amount of the inorganic pigment used in the present invention is not particularly limited. Usually, the amount blended in the oily solid cosmetic is sufficient, but it is usually 1% by mass to 70% by mass, and preferably 5% by mass to 60% by mass with respect to the entire cosmetic. A plurality of inorganic pigments can be used alone or in combination depending on the desired feeling of use.

Component (a) may be any surface-treated inorganic pigment. This is because, even if the inorganic pigment is made oleophilic by the surface treatment, not a few hydrophilic portions remain. If the hydrophilic part remains, it aggregates and poor dispersion occurs. Specific surface treatments may be surface treatments generally used for cosmetics, such as fluorine compounds, silicone compounds, metal soaps, lecithins, hydrogenated lecithins, collagens, hydrocarbons, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, esters. , Surface treatment using one or more of wax, wax, surfactant and the like.

The surfactant having an HLB of 12 or more used in the present invention is blended for the purpose of dispersing the pigment, and is polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester (20E.O.) or polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (50E.O.) or mono. One or more selected from decaglyceryl isostearate or a polyoxyethylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer (12E.O.) can be used. The polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester (20EO) is preferably polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20EO) or polyoxyethylene coconut oil fatty acid sorbitan (20EO). These surfactants having an HLB of 12 or more can be used in combination with surfactants having an HLB of less than 12.

The blending amount of the surfactant having an HLB of 12 or more used in the present invention is sufficiently effective only by blending a small amount. Preferably it is 0.5-2 mass%, More preferably, it is 0.75-1.75 mass%. If it is less than 0.5% by mass, the pigment dispersion may not be good. If it exceeds 2% by mass, it will emulsify with sweat and make-up will occur.

The oil agent used in the present invention is not particularly limited. Any oil agent that is usually used in oil-based solid cosmetics may be used. Specifically, petrolatum that is solid oil, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, dimethylpolysiloxane having a high degree of polymerization, Examples thereof include alkoxy-modified polysiloxanes, cross-linked organopolysiloxanes, lanolin, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, polyethylene wax, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, bees wax, and synthetic wax. Liquid oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane, polyisobutylene, polybutene, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, macadamia nut oil, diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl triisostearate, dioctanoic acid Neopentyl glycol, cholesterol fatty acid ester, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl isooctanoate, low polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, polyether modified Polysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene / alkylmethylpolysiloxane / methylpolysiloxane copolymer, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, Over fluoro decane, perfluorooctane, perfluoro polyether, lanolin acetate, lanolin alcohol, and the like.

The amount of the oil used in the present invention is not particularly limited. Usually, the amount blended in the oil-based solid cosmetic is sufficient, but it is usually 30% by mass to 95% by mass, and preferably 50% by mass to 90% by mass with respect to the entire cosmetic.

In addition to the above components, the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention includes an oily gelling agent other than the above essential components, a surfactant having an HLB of less than 12 and an organic pigment, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Powder components other than pigments, dyes, preservatives, antioxidants, polymers, humectants, ultraviolet absorbers, water, resins, solvents, fragrances, and the like can be blended.

Examples of oily gelling agents include dextrin fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, starch fatty acid esters, aluminum isostearate, inulin stearate and the like.

The surfactant having an HLB of less than 12 is used for the purpose of improving the dispersibility of the powder and the stability of the emulsion, and may be any surfactant that is generally used in cosmetics. Nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants Agents, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants. Further, examples of the ultraviolet absorber include benzophenone, PABA, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, etc., and moisturizers provide a moisture effect. Any of the components used for the purpose of, for example, glycols such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerols such as glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, sorbitol, Examples thereof include saccharides such as maltitol, plant extracts such as aloe vera, hammamels, cucumber, lemon, lavender and rose.

Powder components other than the inorganic pigment blended in the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention include spherical, plate-like, needle-like shapes, fumes, fine particles, pigment grades, etc., porous, nonporous It is not limited by the particle structure or the like. Examples of the powder component include inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, metal powders, composite powders, and the like. Examples of the inorganic powders include talc, muscovite, phlogopite, saucite, biotite, synthetic mica, sericite (sericite), synthetic sericite, kaolin, silicon carbide, bentonite, smectite, silicic anhydride, Aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, antimony oxide, diatomaceous earth, aluminum silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, etc. A white body powder is mentioned. Examples of the glittering powders include titanium dioxide-coated mica, titanium dioxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide mica titanium, bitumen-treated mica titanium, carmine-treated mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, and fish scale foil. Organic powders include polyamide resins, polyethylene resins, polyacrylic resins, polyester resins, fluorine resins, cellulose resins, polystyrene resins, copolymer resins such as styrene-acrylic copolymer resins, and polypropylene resins. Examples thereof include organic polymer resin powders such as silicone resins and urethane resins, organic low molecular weight powders such as zinc stearate and N-acyl lysine, and natural organic powders such as starch, silk powder and cellulose powder. Examples of pigment powders include organic pigment powders such as red 201, red 202, red 205, red 226, red 228, orange 203, orange 204, blue 404, and yellow 401, red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Green No. 3, Blue No. 1, etc., organic pigment powder such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lake, or further aluminum powder, gold powder Examples thereof include metal powder such as silver powder. Examples of the composite powder include composite powders such as fine particle titanium oxide-coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide-coated mica titanium, barium sulfate-coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-containing silicon dioxide, and zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide. These powders can be used singly or in combination of two or more of them. These powders may be one or two of fluorine compound, silicone compound, metal soap, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, collagen, hydrocarbon, higher fatty acid, higher alcohol, ester, wax, wax, surfactant and the like. Surface treatment using seeds or more may be performed.

Examples of the antioxidant include α-tocopherol and ascorbic acid, and examples of the antiseptic include paraoxybenzoic acid ester and phenoxyethanol.

The oily solid cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to a concealer, an eye color, a cheek color, etc., and the shape includes a solid shape.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.

Examples 1 to 13 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3: Foundation (oil-based casting)
A foundation having the formulation shown in Table 1 was prepared. Color unevenness, B.E. Brightness difference, C.I. The makeup was evaluated by the following method. The results are also shown in Table 1.

* 1: OTS-2 Tio2 CR-50 (manufactured by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
* 2: Cosmetic Red T-3000 (Toyo Pigment)
* 3: CONCELIGHT YP-10S (Catalyst Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
* 4: Tilac D (Ako Kasei Co., Ltd.)
* 5: Red 202 (Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
* 6: Rheodor TW-L120 (manufactured by Kao Corporation) (polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20E.O.))
* 7: NIKKOL HCO-50 (Nippon Surfactant)
* 8: NIKKOL Decaglyn 1-ISHV (manufactured by Surfactant Japan)
* 9: DOW CORNING TORAY SH 3771 C FLUID (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning)
* 10: KF-6017 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 11: Cosmall 82 (Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.)
* 12: Cosmall 42V (Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.)

<Manufacturing method>
In the formulation shown in Table 1, components (13) to (16) are heated and mixed. This part and components (1) to (5) are heated and mixed, and then uniformly mixed with a roller. Add the one that has been uniformly mixed to the one that was previously heated and mixed. Further, components (6) to (12) and (17) to (19) are added and mixed by heating. Stir this thoroughly. This was filled into a container to obtain an oil-based pouring foundation.

<Evaluation method>
A. As for the color unevenness item, a visual test was conducted on each sample by 10 specialist panels. A specialized panel visually observed the cast-in foundations of Examples 1 to 13 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, and evaluated them according to the following absolute evaluations in 7 grades. For each sample, the average value is calculated from the total score of all the panels, and if it is 5 or more, it is very good (◎), if it is 3.5 or more and less than 5 (○), 1 or more is 3.5 If it was less than, it was judged as slightly defective (Δ), and if it was less than 1 point, it was judged as defective (x).
B. Regarding the brightness difference, the surface of the virgin state after pouring of the pouring foundations of Examples 1 to 13 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was measured using COLOUR TESTER MODEL SC-30 (Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.). Then, it was again measured with COLOUR TESTER MODEL SC-30 (Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.). The lightness difference (ΔE; Delta E) was determined to be 5.5 or more x, 5 or more and less than 5.5 as Δ, 4.5 or more and less than 5 as ◯, and 4 or more and less than 4.5 as ◎.
C. Regarding the makeup mochi, each sample was subjected to a use test by 10 specialist panels. The specialized panel used the cast-in foundations of Examples 1 to 13 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, and evaluated and scored in 7 stages by the following absolute evaluation. For each sample, the average value is calculated from the total score of all the panels, and if it is 5 or more, it is very good (◎), if it is 3.5 or more and less than 5 (○), 1 or more is 3.5 If it was less than, it was judged as slightly defective (Δ), and if it was less than 1 point, it was judged as defective (x).

From the results in Table 1, the oil-like cast foundations of Examples 1 to 13 of the present invention are superior to those of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 in that the color unevenness, brightness difference, and makeup are all equivalent or better. there were. Further, in place of the polyoxyethylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer (HLB: 13) of Example 4, a comparison was made by blending a polyoxyethylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer (HLB: 4.5) having the same component and a low HLB. Example 1 had uneven color and a large brightness difference. In Example 12, in which 0.4% by mass of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester (20E.O.) blended in Example 1 was blended, the makeup was the same as in Example, but color unevenness and lightness difference The result was inferior to Example 1. In Example 11, in which 3% by mass of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester (20E.O.) blended in Example 1 was blended, the color unevenness and the brightness difference were the same as those in Example 1, but the makeup collapse occurred over time. As a result, the makeup lasts inferior to the examples.

Formulation Example 1: Concealer (solid)
(Component) (mass%)
1. n-Octylsilylated titanium oxide 26
2. Yellow iron oxide 3.8
3. Bengala 0.65
4.2-Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 12
5. Hydrogenated polyisobutene 20
6). Methylphenyl polysiloxane 0.8
7. 1,3-Butylene glycol 10
8). Polyoxyethylene palm oil fatty acid sorbitan (20E.O.) 1
9. Ceresin 3
10. Candelilla wax 0.05
11. Dextrin palmitate 5
12 Cetanol 0.03
13. Mica 5
14 Silicic anhydride 2
15. Silylated Anhydrous Silicic Acid 0.8
16. Nylon powder 0.87
17. Glass powder 3
18. Vaseline 5.65
19. Water 0.15
20. Tocopherol 0.1
21. Fragrance 0.1
(Production method)
A. Ingredients (1) to (5) are heated and mixed.
B. A is uniformly mixed with a roller.
C. Components (6) to (21) are heated and mixed uniformly.
D. Add B to C and stir well.
E. D was filled into a container to obtain a concealer (oil-based casting).
The concealer of Formulation Example 1 is a makeup cosmetic that is excellent in makeup and has no unevenness in color after pouring into a container, no difference in brightness between the pouring surface in a virgin state and the surface after taking with a finger. It was.

Formulation Example 2: Eye color (solid)
(Component) (mass%)
1. n-octylsilylated titanium oxide 0.01
2. Yellow iron oxide 2.5
3. Bengala 0.65
4). Gunjo Pink 0.25
5. Red No. 202 0.0015
6). Blue 404 No. 0.002
7). Yellow No. 5 0.008
8). Isotridecyl isononanoate 15
9. Liquid paraffin 15
10. 10. Diglyceryl triisostearate Appropriate amount Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (50E.O.) 1
12 Polyethylene 4
13. Rice bran 2
14 Eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 3
15. Mica titanium 20
16. Silicic anhydride 5
17. Bengala-coated mica titanium 7
18. Dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis (phytosteryl / behenyl / isostearyl) 5
19. Tocopherol 0.1
(Production method)
A. Ingredients (1) to (10) are heated and mixed.
B. A is uniformly mixed with a roller.
C. Components (11) to (19) are heated and mixed uniformly.
D. Add B to C and stir well.
E. D was filled into a container to obtain an eye color (oil-based casting).
The eye color of this Formulation Example 2 was a makeup cosmetic that had no color unevenness after pouring into a container and was excellent in makeup.

Formulation Example 3: Teak color (solid form)
(Component) (mass%)
1. Titanium oxide 0.01
2. Yellow iron oxide 2.5
3. Black iron oxide 0.001
4). Gunjo Pink 0.25
5. Bengala 5
6). Red No. 202 0.003
7). Red No. 218 0.0001
8). Yellow No. 4 0.007
9. Diglyceryl triisostearate Appropriate amount10. Liquid paraffin 15
11. Octild decanol 15
12 Isododecane 10
13. Tri (capryl / caprin / myristin / stearic acid) glyceryl 2
14 Decaglyceryl monoisostearate 2
15. Silicone resin 0.05
16. Bead wax 8
17. Dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester 2
18. Silicic anhydride 5
19. Polyethylene terephthalate / polyester film laminated powder 7
20. Mica titanium 10
21. Tocopherol 0.1
(Production method)
A. Components (1) to (8) and a part of component (9) are heated and mixed.
B. A is uniformly mixed with a roller.
C. The remaining amount of component (9) and components (10) to (21) are heated and mixed uniformly.
D. Add B to C and stir well.
E. D was filled into a container to obtain a cheek color (oil-like casting).
The cheek color of this Formulation Example 3 was a makeup cosmetic that had no color unevenness after pouring into a container and was excellent in makeup.

According to the invention of the present application, it is possible to provide an oily solid cosmetic having excellent makeup and having no color unevenness in a makeup cosmetic using an inorganic pigment.

Claims (3)

An oily solid cosmetic containing the following components (a) and (b) and (c).
(A) inorganic pigment (b) surfactant having HLB of 12 or more (c) oil agent Component (b) is 0.5-2 mass% in oily solid cosmetics, The oily solid cosmetics of Claim 1 characterized by the above-mentioned. Surfactant having an HLB of 12 or more in component (b) is polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester (20E.O.), polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (50E.O.), deisoglyceryl monoisostearate or polyoxyethylene The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oily solid cosmetic is one or more of methylpolysiloxane copolymers (12E.O.).