HK1008553B - Composite nonwoven, method for its production and its use - Google Patents

Description

This invention relates to a stiffening device and also to a method for the manufacture of such a stiffening device.

These inserts have been used for many years to strengthen garments, especially in women's and men's ready-to-wear. Depending on the processing method, they can, for example, extend over the entire front of a jacket or are only processed as a so-called chest-canvas.

The Commission has already examined the application of the principle of equal treatment for men and women in the context of the common organization of the market in textile products.

In order to achieve the desired good backforming, especially in the direction of the shoot, these fabrics and trimmings prefer to use coarse yarn in the shoot, which is spun mainly in the semi-combed yarn process. The fibre components used are primarily of native origin. In particular, animal hair is used in the shoot, depending on the type of insert, this yarn being inserted in the shoot in the fabric with pure viscose yarn, wool yarn or mixtures thereof. The animal hair can also be spun in conjunction with coarse viscose fibres. African goat hair or yakhare hair is also used.

The use of animal hair has other significant disadvantages: it requires a considerable amount of cleaning, which makes this process very time consuming and therefore expensive; it is also unfavourable because it can often cause allergies in the workers who have to clean it; and yarns made from animal hair or mixtures thereof are subject to very high variations in fineness (number variations), which in turn lead to weight variations in the finished product.

The yarn used in the shoot is also made of multi-component yarn, called coregarne, which has been produced for some time by the drift method.

In particular, problems recur with yarns containing a synthetic monofilament, such as the tendency of the monofilament in these yarns to shift towards the mantle fibres, which then protrude at the edges of the cut reinforcement and may even pierce the finished part of the surface.

The manufacture of all such reinforcing fittings requires additional fittings in order to achieve the desired reinforcing effect, but the processing of these fittings and the reinforcing fittings requires a high production and material cost and particular care in the preparation of the sheet insert, its positioning and clean picketing.

The resulting plate insert serves as an additional reinforcement insert for the actual plate insert to secure e.g. shoulder, armpit and armpit sections. However, due to the manufacturing method, the thickness and volume of the base plate is extremely limited, as the threads in the mesh forming the base yarn tightly together and thus remove the gaps in the base plate, which are caused by the sensitive material, in the direction of the chain.

The present invention is therefore based on the technical problem of developing a reinforcement material which is both inexpensive to produce and has no disadvantages of the aforementioned sheet metal reinforcements and is easy to process in the garment industry.

These problems are solved by the stiffening device described in claim 1.The fabric or fabric may be glued on one side or on the top and bottom with a layer of nonwoven fabric.

The re-forming ability of the yarn is achieved by means of a spring-loaded fabric or fabric. The yarn of the fabric or fabric is monofilament or multifilament or a combination thereof. It is also possible that the monofilament is twisted into a multifilament yarn, which then forms the spring-loaded yarn. The material from which the yarn is made is preferably polyamide-6, polyamide-6,6, polyester or polypropylene or also mixtures of synthetic fibres.

However, it is also possible to use single- and multifilament yarn strands, as well as conventional spun yarn, and multifilament yarns with a titer in the range of 400 to 2000 dtex can be used as yarn.

According to the invention, it is also possible to glue the chain links known from EP-A-0 514 563 with at least one layer of a yarn, while maintaining the new yarn composition.

The yarn used in the fabric or fabric is preferably cotton, wool or other native fibres or viscose, polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile or polypropylene or mixtures thereof. The yarn is preferably of a fineness of 25-400 dtex, preferably 100-400 dtex. Filament yarns may also be used, although these may be textured. When monofilament yarns are used as chain yarns, they may have a fibre diameter of 0.05 to 0.40 mm, as in the yarns described above.

If a weave is used for the nonwoven composition of the invention, the chain preferably uses multifilaments with a fineness in the range of 25-400 dtex.

The nonwovens used for the manufacture of the reinforcement system according to the invention may be needle, water-jet, binder or spot-welded nonwovens, active or foam nonwovens, or a combination of these materials.

The construction of the nonwoven assembly from several layers glued together avoids the disadvantages of the previously known types of inserts: the monofiles used to make the jump are fixed by the glue and the ends of these monofiles cannot move in the finished part, thus preventing a puncture through the upper.

It is also possible to produce a nonwoven composite in a simple and cost-effective way as a stiffening material with a soft and bulky surface that is very easy to process in the garment industry, thus eliminating the time and cost-intensive need for additional stiffeners in the garment industry.

The thickness and volume of the yarn applied to the fabric or fabric can be varied almost arbitrarily without any constriction in the yarn, as was the case with the well-known composite.

Finally, the use of monofilament in the yarn can also avoid the use of core yarn, thus eliminating the entire costly process of yarn production for the yarn.

It is also possible to coat the resulting nonwoven fabric directly with melt adhesives using known methods, for example in grid form, to enable it to be directly fixed to the surface.

The reinforcement device of the invention can be used in particular in men's suits.

For example, the nonwoven composite can also be used to reinforce and paddle sleeves in the armpit area, as a reinforcement in the pant leg area or as a reinforcement for hats and caps.

The present invention also proposes, in claim 18, a method for the manufacture of such a stiffening material by gluing the top and/or bottom of the fabric or fabric with a nonwoven material, preferably by gluing by melting glue, using known methods.

The following are some particularly preferred embodiments of the nonwoven composite according to the invention for the purpose of illustrating the present invention.

Example 1 Woven fabrics of cotton, containing predominantly, but < 85% cotton by weight, mixed principally or solely with man-made fibres and weighing > 200 g/m2, dyed Shot

Monofilament: polyester; diameter 0.22 mmBinding: canvasShoot density: 110 shots/cm

Other, of circular cross-section

Textured polyester dtex 167 f32/1Inlet width 162.83910 yarnsWeight of fabric: 103 g/m2

Other, of a width of less than 30 cm

100% poly (ethylene terephthalate) needle cloth coated with 12 g/m2 of polyamide based melt adhesive Weight 60 g/m2

Fresh or chilled milk

Thermobonding 100% polyester coated with 10 g/m2 polyamide based melt adhesiveWeight 25 g/m2Fine weight of nonwoven laminate: 210 g/m2

Example 2 Other, of a width of > 30 cm

Manufacture from materials of any heading, except that of the product

Shot

Monofilament: polyester, yarn diameter 0,22 mm, thickness of the yarn: 110 sheets/cm

Other, of circular cross-section

Polyamide-6,6 dtex 44f13Withdrawing width 160 cm1512 yarnBinding: closed cloth open fringeWeight of the fabric: 70 g/m2

Other, of a width of less than 30 cm

100% of polyethylene and 60% of polypropylene

Fresh or chilled milk

Thermobonding 100% polyesterWeight: 25 g/m2Fine weight of the nonwoven laminate: 177 g/m2

Example 3 Other, of a thickness of less than 0,2 mm

Manufacture from materials of any heading, except that of the product

Shot

Monofilament: polyester, yarn diameter 0,22 mm, thickness of the yarn: 110 sheets/cm

Other, of circular cross-section

Textured polyester, intermingled-dtex 167 f32/1Inlet width 162, 83910 yarns

Other, of a width of less than 30 cm

100% of polyethylene and 60% of polypropylene

Fresh or chilled milk

Thermobonding 100% polyester Weight 25 g/m2Fine weight of the nonwoven laminate: 177 g/m2

Claims (22)

1. Stiffening insert, in particular patch insert, having high deformation value and stiffness, comprising a woven fabric or knitted fabric having synthetic elastic weft threads and at least one layer of a nonwoven, wherein the woven fabric or knitted fabric and the nonwoven layer(s) are adhered to one another by laminating by means of melt adhesives and the nonwoven layer(s) are arranged on the outer side of the composite.
2. Stiffening insert according to claim 1, characterised in that the woven fabric or knitted fabric has in each case a nonwoven layer on the upper side and the lower side.
3. Stiffening insert according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that the weft yarns of the knitted fabric or woven fabric are monofilaments or multifilaments or a combination thereof.
4. Stiffening insert according to claim 3, characterised in that the monofilaments are twisted to form a multifilament yarn.
5. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the weft yarns are polyamide-6, polyamide-6,6, polyester or polypropylene or mixtures of synthetic fibres.
6. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that thread sequences with traditional spun weft yarns occur in the weft.
7. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterised in that the weft yarns are monofilaments having a fibre diameter of 0.05 to 0.40 mm.
8. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that the weft yarns are multifilaments having a titre in the range from 400 to 2,000 dtex.
9. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterised in that the warp yarns of the woven fabric or knitted fabric are cotton, wool or other natural fibres or viscose, polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile or polypropylene or mixtures thereof.
10. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterised in that the warp yarns have deniers in the range from 25 to 400 dtex.
11. Stiffening insert according to claim 10, characterised in that the deniers are 100 to 400 dtex.
12. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterised in that the warp yarns are filament chains which are textured.
13. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterised in that the warp yams are monofilaments which have a fibre diameter of 0.05 to 0.40 mm.
14. Stiffening insert according to claim 13, characterised in that the monofilaments are twisted to form a multifilament.
15. Stiffening insert according to claim 14, characterised in that the warp yarns of the woven fabric consist of polyester multifilaments having a denier of 0.25 to 400 dtex.
16. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterised in that the nonwoven is a needle punched nonwoven, water jet-bonded, binder-bonded or dot-welded nonwoven, a knitted nonwoven or a foam nonwoven or a mixture thereof.
17. Stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterised in that the weight of the nonwoven lies in the range from 10 to 180 g/m².
18. Process for producing a stiffening insert, in particular patch insert, having high deformation value and stiffness, comprising a woven fabric or knitted fabric having synthetic elastic weft threads and at least one layer of a nonwoven, in which a nonwoven is adhered by laminating by means of melt adhesives onto the upper side and/or lower side of the woven fabric or knitted fabric.
19. Use of the stiffening insert according to one of claims 1 to 17 as additional stiffening insert.
20. Use according to one of claims 20 and 21 for reinforcement and padding of sleeves in the head-of-the-arm region.
21. Use according to claim 20 or 21 for reinforcement in the waistband region.
22. Use according to claim 20 or 21 for reinforcement of hats and/or caps.