MXPA98004149A - Entretela that comprises high number deheb tissues - Google Patents

Abstract

An interlining intended to be joined with a cloth or cloth, comprising threads, both in the direction of the weft and in the direction of the warp, formed with textured, multifilament strands, both natural and synthetic. The interlining may also comprise a nonwoven fabric layer, natural or synthetic fibers, preferably two constituents and antistatic strands. The interlining improves the characteristics of the garments, especially their tactile sensation, softness and ability to recover their for

Description

ENTERTAINMENT THAT COMPRISES FABRICS OF HIGH NUMBER OF HEBRAS, The invention relates to a fusible fabric, intended for interlining and its use. In particular, it refers to fusible textiles intended to be used as interlinings in garments or clothes. Today, interliner products are generally used in the textile industry, mainly as reinforcement fabrics. Its application in coatings or fabrics by means of joining makes it possible to modify the characteristics of the fabrics, particularly its tactile sensation, its softness and its sponginess. Various types of interliner textiles have been proposed. For example, EP-A-0 387 117 discloses a textile fabric for interlinings comprising a layer of non-woven fabric, weft threads, woven strands which ensure the union between the weft and the non-woven layer and a layer of non-woven fabric. fusible adhesive. EP-A-0 501 842 discloses an interlining comprising a first layer of non-woven fabric made of microfibers and, at least a second non-woven layer, the first and second layers are joined together. US-A-4 737 396 discloses an interlining comprising a non-woven, highly compressed layer, weft threads positioned on one side of the non-woven layer, a warp fabric which ensures the bonding and cohesion between the non-woven layer and the warp threads and an adhesive placed on the side of the non-woven layer opposite that of the location of the warp threads. Known interlinings are prepared using textured or non-textured strands, also known as flat strands. The use of textured strands, particularly multifilament strands, however, has the tendency to develop due to the specific advantages provided by texturing. For example, they make it possible to give the fabric a certain extensibility in the direction of the weft, in the direction of the warp, or in both, the weft and the warp, depending on the use of textured threads in these various directions. It also makes it possible to give the interlining product greater coverage due to the greater volume of the strands and the fineness of the filaments used. In particular, the use of microfilaments makes it possible to avoid penetration or flow through the interlining of the hot melt substances used. The use of textured threads also makes it possible to give the interlining, and from there to the fabrics where a satisfactory smoothness is applied. Textured strands of conventionally used microfilaments consist of single layers or filaments with a numbering of 4 to 5 Dtex, which corresponds to standard strands. They may also consist of microfilaments with a lower number of Dtex.

However, this conventional numbering of the strands has certain disadvantages. For example, the elasticity or extensibility of the textured strands used results in the fact that the fabrics do not remain flat on the interlining. In this way, the curling of the textured strands tends to lengthen with time, particularly due to the thermal treatments and the vaporizations to which the fabrics are subjected. This produces an elongation of the interlining, while the fabric itself tends to shrink, as a result of such treatments. This results in a "curling" or "rolling" phenomenon of the fabric over the interlining. This phenomenon is more pronounced when the interlining is applied to a complete garment, such as a cross jacket. And even more, if the fabric used is docile. The main objective of the invention is to eliminate the previous disadvantages of the prior art, proposing an interlining that limits the phenomenon of curling of the fabrics or garments on which it is applied. A first objective of the invention relates to an interlining with improved stability. Another object of the invention relates to the use of an interlining with improved stability for the reinforcement of garments or articles of clothing Another object of the invention relates to a neck particularly a collar, which comprises the interlining with improved stability. A first objective of the invention relates to an interlining with improved stability.

For this purpose, the interlining of the invention, intended to be joined on a fabric comprises threads in the direction of the weft and / or threads in the direction of the warp formed using multifilament textured threads, those threads have a simple layer numbering, greater than 12 Dtex, approximately. In this way, the curling of the texturized strands, of high numbering has a greater elastic force and the extensibility of the obtained interlining is more limited. The multifilament textured strands, with high numbering, keep the fabric in a substantially planar position due to its resistance and elasticity, maintaining this position over time. Textured, multifilament, high-numbering strands can be used, including synthetic strands. These include polyamide strands, particularly type 6 or 6.6 polyamide and polyester strands. Textured, multifilament yarns generally comprise between 6 and 40 simple filaments, a number that can vary depending on the final destination of the fabric. The texturing treatment, intended to confer torsional and / or crimped characteristics is known per se and does not need to be described in greater detail within the scope of the present application. We will refer merely to texturing methods using the false twist technique. According to the first option, the interliner of the invention comprises a woven weft fabric, in which the weft is achieved using textured strands, of high multifilament numbering in a single layer.

According to the first embodiment, the simple layer of high-numeration multifilament textured strands, which form the reinforcement in the direction of the warp, are short warp threads. The short weft threads are actually wound in the direction of the warp so that each short weft thread passes over a plurality of stitches in each course. This winding is wound up with one of every two, three or four crosses, although it can also take place on each course. According to a second embodiment, the single layer of textured, high-numbering strands, which form the reinforcing strands in the direction of the weft, are long strands in the direction of the weft. The long strands of the weft are arranged transversely with respect to the direction of manufacture of the fabric, for example, transversely with respect to the crosses. There may be one long strand of a thread per strand. Without having to say it, the number of long weft threads may vary, particularly depending on the raw materials used or the expected result. Other designs are possible, for example, a long weft thread for every two or three courses. Optionally, the interlining of the invention may comprise both long and short weft threads. Preferably, the woven fabric is of the weave type. The strands that can be used for the woven fabric include natural or synthetic multifilament strands or flat or textured strands.

The numbering of the strands used in the woven fabric is between 22 and 150 Dtex, approximately, with numbering of strands per single layer between 0.5 and 6 Dtex, approximately. The strands that can be used for the woven fabric include polyester and cellulose strands. According to another option, the interlining of the invention comprises a woven weft fabric such as that described above and, in addition, winch strands with a numbering greater than about 12 Dtex, per single layer. The winch strands are preferably arranged in the direction of the warp. The winch strands are arranged between the crosses, distributed in a substantially regular manner, without participating in the formation of the stitch. The winch strands are preferably disposed between each crossing and, without having to say it, the number of winch strands between the crosses may vary. The winch strands with high numbering can consist of simple strands of winch, held in position by the woven fabric, passing through the same side of all the turns of the stitches. The winch strands may also consist of winch strands with floats, held in position by the woven fabric, passing through the same side of all the turns of the stitches. Preferably, the winch strands with floats are spun in the direction of the frame and between the crosses, exhibiting a float corresponding to at least two courses of turns of stitches.

The winch strands that may be used include synthetic, multifilament, textured strands with a single layer number greater than about 12 Dtex and a total strand number between 80 and 300 Dtex. The winch strands preferably comprise from 6 to 24 strands. For example, the strands that can be used for winch strands are polyester strands. The winch strands are arranged on either side of the woven fabric. According to another option, the interliner of the invention additionally comprises a non-woven layer. The main purpose of this layer is to give the fabric a significant volume with respect to its weight. This is achieved by using a layer of natural, synthetic or artificial fibers and possibly undergoes a minimum of bonding to give the fibers a certain cohesion.

This connection is achieved by hot pressing between rollers. In this case, the fibers of the non-woven fabric are preferably formed using polyamide fibers made of two constituents, with one of them being capable of being bound by inter-roll pressing. The non-woven fabric layer can also be made of synthetic fibers, for example, polyester or polyamide, particularly polyamide type 6 or 6,6 or even natural or artificial fibers, for example, viscose. The non-woven fabric layer can be sewn or pre-sewn, for example, with a perforation density of 20 per cm 2.

The nonwoven fabric layer may be light or highly compressed. The position of the weft strands of the woven fabric and / or the winch strands may vary with respect to the nonwoven fabric layer. For example, the short and / or long strands may be placed on the opposite side of the non-woven fabric, on which the woven fabric is disposed. Optionally, it can be placed on the same side of the nonwoven fabric that is disposed to the woven fabric, or between the nonwoven fabric layer and the woven fabric. In the option, according to which the fabric of the invention comprises a nonwoven fabric layer, the winch strands are preferably arranged on the side of the nonwoven fabric layer comprising the woven fabric. According to another option, the interliner of the invention comprises a layer of woven fabric that includes, both in the direction of the warp and in the direction of the weft, or in both directions, textured strands, multifilament, with a numbering of strands. per single layer greater than about 12 Dtex as described above. The woven layer is made of natural, synthetic and / or artificial fibers. In addition to the multifilament textured strands, with single strand numbering greater than 12 Dtex, approximately the woven layer may comprise warp threads made of cotton or viscose, for example. It can comprise continuous fibers or filaments, flat or textured, with a typical density, for example, between 14 and 40 strands per cm.

Possibly antistatic strands can be incorporated in the interliner of the invention. Such antistatic strands already exist. They may consist of metallic conductive strands, strands of metal compounds or polymer cationic strands, particularly carbon strands. The antistatic strands are alternately arranged with the reinforcing strands in the direction of the warp and / or in the direction of the weft, particularly the warp threads, the winch strands. A ratio of about 5 to 20% antistatic strands relative to the reinforcing strands is preferred. The interliner of the invention is subjected to conventional finishing operations, such as to obtain the required stability, elasticity and shades.

The interliner of the invention additionally comprises a thermoadhesive layer. This layer of fusible adhesive can be deposited on one of the faces of the fabric of the invention using, for example, a coating method, in the form of lines or dots, for example, a printing-type coating method of the grid type ("screen"). ") The fusible adhesive layer can be deposited by any other conventional coating method. The thermofusible material constituting the adhesive layer consists, for example, of any of the materials used to ensure the joining of reinforcing fabrics on fabrics intended to receive them.

It may have a base of polyamide, polyester, polyethylene, polyurethane, polymer or polyolefin copolymer. When the coating is achieved in the form of dots, the density is preferably in the order of 30 to 150 dots per cm 2. Another object of the invention is the use of an interlining according to the invention for the reinforcement of clothes. The interliner of the invention can be used on any type of clothing or article of clothing or reinforcement, such as jackets, belts, shirt bibs, collars or sleeves, or equivalent parts. For these purposes, the invention proposes a neck for a shirt or equivalent garment, comprising one or more pieces of fabric and an interlining according to the invention associated therewith. The interliner of the invention may act as a stiffener fabric of the neck itself, or may act as a reinforcement of the stiffener fabric of the neck, which is associated with the neck pieces. According to one option, the collar comprises two pieces of fabric, the upper and the lower, respectively, assembled together and between which the interliner of the invention is inserted and assembled. The additional advantages and features of the invention will be understood upon reading the following description of the examples of modalities, provided on the basis of non-limiting illustration.

EXAMPLE 1 An interlining of the woven weft type is prepared as follows in a "RACHEL" type knitting machine, also referred to as "weft weaving machine" for weft insert. It uses strands of fabric that form stitches consisting of flat strands of polyester, with a numbering of 33 Dtex and are made of up to 24 filaments, to obtain a woven fabric of the woven warp type. The machine is also supplied with long weft threads, consisting of long, textured, multifilament polyester threads, with a total numbering of 84 Dtex and made of up to six filaments, with a weft density of 14 threads per row. centimeter.

EXAMPLE 2 An interlining of the weft type is prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 above. The same warp threads are used in the "RACHEL" weaving machine as in Example 1 above and the long weft threads consist of textured, multifilament threads, made of polyester with a total numbering of 167 Dtex threads, composed of up to 12 filaments.

EXAMPLE 3 An interlining of the weft type, reinforced by winch strands, is prepared as follows. The cloth is prepared in the same way as in the Example 1 above using a woven fabric of the warp type obtained using polyester flat yarns with a total numbering of 22 Dtex and composed of up to 18 filaments. The long weft threads consist of textured threads made of polyester with a total numbering of 167 Dtex threads and composed of up to 18 threads with a single-strand numbering of 14 Dtex, with a plot density of 12 rows per centimeter. A single strand of winch is incorporated, consisting of a textured polyester strand with a total thread number of 84 Dtex and composed of up to 6 filaments, in the direction of the warp, between each crossing.

EXAMPLE 4 An interlining of the nonwoven type, reinforced by a woven weft fabric, is prepared as follows. A non-woven fabric, composed of synthetic polyamide threads, weighing 50 g per m2 previously heat-bonded by a hot roller press, is fed to a machine of the "RACHEL" type with non-woven insert.

The warp threads used are flat strands of polyamide 6, 6, made of up to 16 filaments and with a total thread number of 44 Dtex. The long strands of the weft are polyamide strands, textured, six strands, with a total strand number of 84 Dtex, with a plot density of 10 rows of threads per centimeter.

EXAMPLE 5 An interlining of the non-woven type, reinforced with a woven weft fabric, is prepared as follows.

A nonwoven fabric is used, made of polyester filaments of the united-attached type, joined by stitching, weighing 30 g / m2, with warp threads consisting of flat strands made of polyamide with a total thread numbering of 22 Dtex, with a single-layer strand numbering of 0.5 Dtex. A single winch strand, made of textured polyester, is incorporated between the crosses, with a total numbering of 84 Dtex and composed of up to 6 filaments, in the direction of the warp. The weft is composed of textured polyester threads, with a total thread number of 167 Dtex and composed of up to 12 filaments, with a single-layer strand numbering of 14 Dtex. and with a plot density of 12 rows of strands per centimeter.

Claims (33)

1. - An interlining intended to be attached to a cloth or cloth, CHARACTERIZED because it comprises threads in the weft direction and / or threads in the warp direction formed by multifilament, textured strands, those threads have a single layer single thread numbering greater than 12 Dtex, approximately.

2. - An interlining according to Claim 1, CHARACTERIZED because the multifilament textured strands include synthetic strands.

3. - An interlining according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, CHARACTERIZED because the synthetic strands include polyamide strands, particularly of type 6 or 6, 6 and polyester strands.

4. - An interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 3, CHARACTERIZED because the textured, multifilament strands comprise between 6 and 40 simple filaments.

5. - An eyelid according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises a weft woven fabric.

6. - An interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 5, CHARACTERIZED because the textured, multifilament strands in the direction of the weft are long weft threads.

1 . - An interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 5, CHARACTERIZED because the textured, multifilament strands in the direction of the weft are short and weft threads and long weft threads.

8. - An interlining according to any of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that the woven fabric is prepared using natural or synthetic multifilament strands, with flat or textured strands.

9. An interlining according to any of Claims 5 to 8, characterized in that the strands forming the woven fabric have a total strand numbering comprised between approximately 22 and approximately 150 Dtex, with strand numberings per single layer comprised between approximately 0.5 and approximately 6 Dtex.

10. - An interlining according to claims 8 or 9, characterized in that the strands forming the woven fabric include polyamide strands, particularly of polyamide type 6 or 6, 6 polyester strands and cellulose strands.

11. - An interlining according to claims 5 to 10, characterized in that the woven fabric is of the warp knitting type.

12. - An interlining according to claims 5 to 11, characterized in that it comprises multifilament winch strands with single strand numbering greater than about 12 Dtex. preferably arranged in the direction of the warp.

13. - An interlining according to Claim 12, CHARACTERIZED because the winch strands consist of simple strands of winch.

14. - An interlining according to Claim 12, CHARACTERIZED because the winch strands consist of winch strands with floats.

15. - An eel according to any of Claims 13 to 14, CHARACTERIZED because the winch strands include synthetic, multifilament, textured strands.

16. - An interlining according to any of Claims 13 to 15, CHARACTERIZED because the winch strands were prepared using polyester strands.

17. - An interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it comprises a layer of non-woven fabric.

18. - An interlining according to Claim 17, CHARACTERIZED because the non-woven fabric layer is prepared using natural, synthetic or artificial fibers.

19. - An interlining according to Claim 18, CHARACTERIZED in that the fibers of the non-woven fabric are preferably formed using fibers made of two polyamide, polyester, polyamide or viscose constituents.

20. - An interlining according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises a layer of woven fabric that includes, in the direction of the warp, in the direction of the weft, or in both directions texturized, multifilament strands, with a Strand numbering per single layer greater than approximately 12 Dtex.

21. - An interlining according to Claim 20, CHARACTERIZED in that the woven lid comprises natural fibers, synthetic or artificial fibers, for example, strands made of cotton or viscose.

22. - An interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 21, CHARACTERIZED because it comprises antistatic strands.

23. - An interlining according to the claims 21 or 22, CHARACTERIZED because the antistatic strands include metallic conductive strands, metal compound strands, cationic polymer strands, particularly carbon strands.

24. - An interlining according to claims 22 or 23, characterized in that it comprises approximately 5 to 20% of antistatic strands with respect to the number of reinforcing strands.

25. - An interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 24, CHARACTERIZED because it comprises a layer of fusible adhesive.

26. - An interlining according to Claim 25, CHARACTERIZED in that the fusible material constituting the adhesive layer consists, for example, of any of the materials used to ensure the bond between the reinforcing fabrics and the fabrics intended to receive them.

27. - An interlining according to claims 25 or 26, characterized in that the adhesive material has a base of polyamide, polyester, polyethylene, polyurethane, polymer or polyolefin copolymer.

28. - Use of an interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 27, CHARACTERIZED because it serves to reinforce garments or articles of clothing.

29. - Use according to Claim 28, characterized in that it serves for the reinforcement of jackets, belts, shirt bibs, collars or shirt sleeves or equivalent parts.

30. - Use according to Claims 28 or 29, CHARACTERIZED because it serves to reinforce necks.

31. - A collar for an equivalent shirt or garment, CHARACTERIZED because it comprises one or more pieces of fabric and an interlining associated with them, according to any of Claims 1 to 27.

32. - A collar according to Claim 31, CHARACTERIZED because the interlining acts as a stiffening fabric of the neck itself, or acts as a reinforcement of a stiffening neck fabric that is associated with the neck piece (s).

33. - A collar according to the claims 31 or 32, CHARACTERIZED because it comprises two pieces of fabric, upper and lower, respectively, assembled together, between which an interlining is inserted and assembled.