HK1067313A - Pseudoplastic, film forming cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Description

Pseudoplastic film-forming cosmetic composition

Technical Field

The present invention relates to pseudoplastic cosmetic compositions having improved aesthetic properties such as hair fiber separation, thickening, detangling, application smoothness, film-forming properties and improved abrasiveness.

Background

Mascara is the major cosmetic product of significant importance in the cosmetics industry. Mascara products are used to enhance the aesthetics of an individual's eyes by coating the eyelashes, and in some cases the eyebrows, to primarily thicken, lengthen, color, and contour the individual's eyelashes.

Mascaras come in a variety of forms including cakes or blocks, creams, gels, and low viscosity liquids. Cake mascara was the first most popular form of this cosmetic. They typically contain at least 50% soap, with the pigment mixed with the soap and pressed into the cake. It can be foamed with a wet brush and then applied to the eyelashes to give a satisfactory and smooth effect. As such, creams and liquid mascaras are generally limited to relatively low viscosities or have limited shear-thinning behavior. Their main disadvantages are that the film formed on the eyelashes is completely water-soluble and the product is prone to stain and flow, transferring to the skin around the eyes. Later, improvements were made to cake mascaras, such as the incorporation of waxes to increase the water repellency of the initial soap-based form. This often impairs the smoothness of the application. That is, as the viscosity of the mascara formulation increases, it becomes increasingly difficult to apply, messy, and sticks the eyelashes together.

The advent of mascara applicators also provided a way to expand the choice of mascara formulation. For example, in addition to "cake-like", mascaras can be formulated in cream or liquid form. Cream mascaras are usually waxes and pigments dispersed in water in a terminally bonded form, much like a vanishing cream. In combination with automatic applicators, they quickly surpass the bulk mascara in terms of flow length due to ease of use. That is, this form is less dependent on the actual skill of the user than block-based applications. Most of the ingredients are similar to the above mentioned modified form of block mascara and still many of the same disadvantages are inherent. However, because it is a cream structure, the concentration of water is greater and allows the incorporation of natural and synthetic film formers to improve abrasiveness. The main disadvantage of adding these film formers is the shortened application time. Due to the evaporation of the water, the polymer quickly coalesces to form an unevenly distributed film, resulting in a more lumpy mascara on the eyelashes.

Us patent 5,614,200 discloses the use of a setting rate agent to extend the setting rate of the composition to provide sufficient time for the mascara to distribute into a semi-liquid form to avoid clumping. The formulations disclosed therein provide for separation and ease of application of the eyelashes at the expense of abrasion (e.g., staining and water resistance). However, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions, especially mascaras, that can detangle and separate eyelashes without sacrificing abrasiveness and eyelash thickening. More importantly, there is a need for cosmetic compositions, i.e., mascaras, that exhibit improved application and separation benefits despite their stickiness. Notwithstanding the above, the inventors have discovered cosmetic compositions having specific rheological property parameters associated with pseudoplasticity that achieve these desirable benefits. Accordingly, the present inventors have discovered cosmetic compositions, especially mascaras, having a transition point stress of from about 650Pa to about 1500Pa and a high shear rate slope of less than about 0.5Pa-s that achieve these desirable benefits. The applicants have also found that the compositions disclosed herein may also be used in other cosmetic applications related to skin-like keratinous tissue, such as lipsticks, foundations, eyeliners, lipliners, eyeshadows, rouges, and the like, where it is desirable to provide a smooth effect in a long-lasting, film-forming cosmetic product.

Summary of The Invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions having improved application benefits to keratinous tissue and keratinous fibers, wherein the compositions have improved application benefits while avoiding the negative effects currently known in the art associated with compositions. The presently claimed compositions have a transition point stress of from about 650Pa to about 1500Pa and a high shear rate slope of less than about 0.5 Pa-s.

Detailed Description

The term "cosmetic" as used herein includes cosmetic and hair care products.

The term "make-up" refers to a product that leaves color on the face, including on the eyelashes, eyebrows, cheeks, lips, and the like.

Hair care products are products used to treat, care for, or in some way impart aesthetically pleasing attributes to mammalian hair fibers. Products that are referred to as "hair care products" include, but are not limited to, hair conditioners, shampoos, detangling sprays, and the like.

The term "keratinous tissue" as used herein refers to a layer comprising keratinous tissue as the outermost protective covering for a mammal (e.g., human, dog, cat, etc.) including, but not limited to, skin, lips, hair, toenails, fingernails, cuticles, hooves, and the like.

The term "keratinous fibers" as used herein refers in particular to mammalian (e.g., human or animal) hair, such as hair on the head or body, eyebrows, and eyelashes.

The term "topical application" as used herein means the application or spreading of the composition of the present invention to the keratinous tissue surface.

The term "dermatologically acceptable" as used herein means that the composition or component is suitable for use in contact with mammalian keratinous tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.

The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein means an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to produce a significant positive benefit, preferably a positive keratinous tissue appearance or feel benefit, including the benefits disclosed herein, either individually or in combination, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to risk ratio, within the scope of sound judgment of the skilled artisan.

All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition and all measurements made are at 25 ℃, unless otherwise specified.

The compositions of the present invention can comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of the essential components described herein, as well as optional ingredients. As used herein, "consisting essentially of means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, as long as the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods.

All publications cited herein are incorporated by reference in their entirety.

Rheological method

The compositions of the present invention have a transition point stress of from about 650Pa to about 1500Pa and a high shear rate slope of less than about 0.5 Pa-s. In a more preferred embodiment, the transition point stress is from about 750Pa to about 1200Pa, more preferably from about 850Pa to about 1000 Pa. In addition, it is preferred that the high shear rate slope be less than about 0.25Pa-s, and even more preferably less than about 0.01 Pa-s.

To determine the rheological limits of the above-mentioned claimed compositions of the invention, the following methods were investigated. The instruments and accessories used for this method include a rheometer (e.g., Haake RS150), a 20mm cone with a1 ° angle, a 20mm plate, a water bath, and a solvent trap. And the following conditions should be satisfied: 1) running a controlled shear rate (log); 2) shear rate 0.01s^-1To 300s^-1(ii) a 3) Collecting the number of data points as 300; 4) the test period is 300 seconds; and 5) the water bath was 25 ℃.

The rheometer should be calibrated before the measurements are made. The sample should be near room temperature (25 ℃). In applying the cosmetic of the present invention, the application technique is critical. Since the compositions of the present invention tend to be quite thixotropic, e.g. shear before measurement can affect the measurement results, it is important to keep the application technique consistent and to minimize pre-shear. When applying the sample to the substrate, the sample should be scooped out gently in one motion without significant shearing or expansion. The sample should be placed gently on the substrate without squeezing and rotating the spatula away from the sample. The sample should be placed in the middle of the substrate and relatively flat across the substrate. The sample size should be just enough so that once the final position of the plate or cone is reached (0.052mm) there is a trace of sample flowing out of the gap. The sample should be about 1 gram. If too many samples are placed or not placed uniformly in layers, the top plate will over compress and shear the samples affecting the result. The sample should be fresh (i.e., conventional volatility content). Therefore, removal of the sample from the air/cosmetic composition interface of the storage container should be avoided. Fast drying cosmetic compositions are difficult to measure and typically require a solvent trap to accurately measure fresh film. The correct solvent (e.g., water, isododecane, etc.) should be used for the sample, which is the primary solvent (or compatible solvent) in the sample of cosmetic composition. Once the measurement site is reached, the sample material will protrude a small protrusion from the gap. This should be quickly and gently removed so as not to disturb the top plate and pre-shear the sample. If the top plate is moved, the operation is abandoned. The sample should be prepared very quickly to reduce drying of the sample (i.e., less than 20 seconds).

The results of the above method are in terms of stress (pascal) versus shear rate(s)^-1) Is plotted as shown in fig. 1 and 2. In both figures, 10 represents the initial yield, which is the point at which flow or deformation begins. The stress at this point is the initial yield stress. The low shear rate region 20 is the region where the sample begins to flow, but it still represents the region before the sample has fully shear-thinned. The slope of the line indicated at 20 is the low shear slope (measured in Pa-s), calculated as the ratio shear stress/shear rate. And 30 represents a transition point. This is the point at which the sample viscosity is significantly reduced, i.e., the sample shear-thins. The shear rate at the transition point is the transition point shear rate and the stress at the transition point is the transition point stress. The high shear rate region 40 is the region after the transition point where the sample is shear thinned or flows more easily and more fluid like. The slope of the line indicated at 40 is the high shear rate slope (measured in Pa-s), calculated as the ratio shear stress/shear rate. The transition point may also be described in terms of shear rate rather than stress (stress depends on other quantities). Has been found to have a length of about 85s^-1To about 225s^-1More preferably about 110s^-1To about 175s^-1Has similar beneficial effects as in the above-described transition point stress range.

Figure 1 shows the results of a test sample of the claimed composition. This sample is extremely shear-thinning after the transition point. Fig. 1 shows that the maximum stress is at the transition point. The negative slope in the region of maximum pressure or high shear rate at the transition point represents a material property of the claimed compositions. Fig. 2 also shows shear-thinning behavior, but at this time is the maximum stress plateau. Some embodiments of the invention may even increase slightly in slope, but should be below about 0.5Pa-s, in which case the sample still has comparable shear-thinning properties. This shear-thinning behavior (as shown in fig. 1 and 2) has been found to be a major contributor to consumer benefit, which is considered desirable herein.

The test method should be repeated (e.g. 10 times per row) and the results should yield a relative standard deviation of less than 10%, more preferably less than 5%.

Optional ingredients

The compositions of the present invention may contain various other components, such as those typically used in a given product type, so long as they do not detract from the benefits of the invention (i.e., rheology limitations). These optional components should be suitable for application to mammalian skin, i.e., when incorporated into the composition, they are suitable for use in contact with human skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like, within the scope of sound medical or formulator's judgment. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, second edition (1992) describes a wide variety of non-limiting Cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care field that are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention.

Numerous optional ingredients may be added to the present invention to provide additional benefits beyond those defined above in the present invention. For example, it is preferred that the compositions of the present invention contain a preservative system to prevent microbial growth and maintain product integrity. In the present invention, the preservative system does not have a deleterious effect on the composition.

Any optional ingredients well known to those skilled in the art may also be used in the present invention. Examples of optional ingredients are cosmetic fillers including, but not limited to, mica, talc, nylon, polyethylene, silica, polymethacrylate, china clay, and teflon. Suitable cosmetic preservatives can also be included, including, but not limited to, methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, potassium sorbate, trisodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate, phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, and quaternary ammonium-15. Film formers may also be used. Suitable agents include, but are not limited to, natural and synthetic additional film formers such as shellac, acacia, hydroxyethyl cellulose, PVP/DMEA, silicone latex, and polyquaternium-10.

Emulsifiers may also be used to aid in the stability of the composition. These emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, soaps, phosphate esters, ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty esters, polyol ethyl esters, glycerol esters, sucrose or sorbitan esters, glucose esters, potassium or DEA-cetyl phosphate, triethanolamine, fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.

Optional components useful in the present invention may be classified according to their therapeutic or cosmetic benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it is to be understood that the optional components useful in the present invention may in some cases provide more than one therapeutic or cosmetic benefit, or function in more than one way. Thus, classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the component to that particular application or applications listed. Suitable optional ingredients are detailed below.

Phospholipids

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one phospholipid having the formula:

the Nomenclature of the phospholipids (I) and the number of C atoms are based on the recommendations of the IUPAC-IUB Biochemical Nomenclature System (CBN) Committee of Eur.J.of biochem.79, 11-21(1977) "Nomenclature of Lipids" (sn-Nomenclature, stereospecific numbering).

Having a structure of C_10-20R of acyl₁And R₂May be a straight chain C having an even number of C atoms_10-20Alkanoyl and straight-chain C having a double bond and an even number of C atoms_10-20An alkenoyl group.

Straight-chain C having an even number of C atoms_10-20Alkanoyl radical R₁And R₂Is, for example, n-dodecanoyl, n-tetradecanoylHexadecanoyl or n-octadecanoyl.

Straight-chain C with double bonds and an even number of C atoms_10-20Alkenoyl radical R₁And R₂Are, for example, 6-cis-or 6-trans-, 9-cis-or 9-trans-dodecenoyl, -tetradecenoyl, -hexadecenoyl, -octadecenoyl or-eicosenoyl, in particular 9-cis-octadecenoyl (oleoyl), and 9, 12-cis-octadecadienoyl or 9, 12, 15-cis-octadecatrienooyl.

Wherein R is₃Phospholipids (I) which are 2-trimethylamino-1-ethyl, in which R is generally referred to as lecithin₃Phospholipids (I) which are 2-amino-1-ethyl groups are commonly referred to as cephalins. Preference is given to using them according to the invention, e.g. having different or identical acyl radicals R₁And R₂Or a mixture thereof, for example, from soy or egg.

The term "natural" phospholipid (I) means a phospholipid which is referred to as R₁And R₂In other words, it does not have a uniform composition of phospholipids. Thus the acyl group R of natural phospholipids (i.e. natural lecithins and natural cephalins)₁And R₂Cannot be defined structurally and are derived from natural fatty acid mixtures.

In particular, native lecithin is defined as a phospholipid or a mixture of phospholipid compounds derived from a natural source, such as soy. The three major phospholipids are phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine and phosphatidylinositol. The lecithin used in one embodiment of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of lecithin, lecithin concentrated fractions, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof. Optionally, the lecithin has a phospholipid content of not less than 75% and less than 5% free oil, and the lecithin may also be free of oil. Examples of such substances are Centrox F from Central Soya and Phospholipon from Nat termann phospholipid^Series (50G, 80, 90, 100, etc.). The lecithin compositions of the invention may comprise about 23% phosphatidylcholine, 20% phosphatidylethanolamine, and about 14% phosphatidylinositol. The rest lecithin is composed of other phospholipids, lipid, carbohydrate, and glycerolTriester and moisture.

The fractionated lecithin compositions of the invention consist primarily of phosphatidylcholine having a normal fatty acid profile as occurs naturally in lecithin, or fatty acids consisting primarily of saturated species such as stearic and palmitic acids by hydrogenation methods. Phospholipon 80 as referred to in the present invention^Consists of 76% phosphatidylcholine, 3% lysophosphatidylcholine, 8% phosphatidic acid, 4% phosphatidylethanolamine and 9% other lipids. Phospholipon 50 or 50G as referred to in the present invention^With Phospholipon 80^Similarly, only the phosphatidylcholine concentration was much less, only 50% of the mixture. Phosphatidylethanolamine is present in an amount of 30% together with other components. Other fractionated lecithins include, but are not limited to Phospholipon 100^、Phospholipon 90H^、Phospholipon 90/906^And other commercially available fractionated lecithins.

The phospholipids (I) are also derived from synthetic sources. Relative to R₁And R₂Phospholipids having a uniform composition are defined as the term "synthetic phospholipids". Such synthetic phospholipids may be lecithins and cephalins as defined above and their acyl radicals R₁And R₂Fatty acids having defined structures and having greater than about 95% purity from definition. R₁And R₂Which may be the same or different, may be unsaturated or saturated. In one embodiment, R₁Is saturated, e.g. n-hexadecanoyl, R₂Unsaturated, such as 9-cis-octadecenoyl (oleoyl). Examples of suitable synthetic phospholipids are disclosed in U.S. patent 5,997,888 issued to Weder et al, 12, 7.1999.

In a preferred embodiment, the phospholipid is substantially chemically free (i.e., free and/or unobstructed). Hereinafter, "chemically free" may be interchangeably referred to as "uncomplexed". The phospholipids of the invention are therefore substantially uncomplexed. Furthermore, if the composition comprises a phospholipid in complexed form, the complexing is preferably substantially reversible. One of ordinary skill in the art can readily determine this reversibility.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 4%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%, by weight of the composition, of phospholipids.

PVP-copolymer

PVP-copolymers may also be incorporated in the compositions of the present invention. The copolymer used in the present invention may be defined as a derivative of vinylpyrrolidone, more precisely a copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and an alpha-olefin, or an alkylated derivative of polyvinylpyrrolidone. Optionally, these polymers are lipophilic.

These polymers may also be represented by the formula:

wherein the radical R₁-R₁₂Each independently represents a straight or branched chain C₁₀-C₄₀Alkyl, or a hydrogen atom, wherein the radical R is₁-R₁₂At least one of which is not a hydrogen atom. The value of Y may be equal to or greater than zero and X must not be equal to zero.

In one embodiment, the polymer used in the present invention comprises at least one group R comprising from 14 to 32 carbon atoms, optionally from 28 to 32 carbon atoms.

The alkyl group including 10 to 40 carbon atoms includes pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, docosyl and triacontyl groups.

In some embodiments of the invention, the weight average molecular weight of the PVP copolymer is from about 5000 to about 30,000, optionally from about 6000 to about 20,000.

In one particular embodiment of the invention, Y is equal to 0 and the radical R₂-R₅Represents hydrogen. Optionally, at least one of the different groups containing hydrogen comprises 14 to 32 carbon atoms. Polymers meeting this embodiment variation include those marketed by ISP under the trade name Ganex WP-660^And Antaron WP-660^Tricontanyl PVP.

In another embodiment of the present invention, Y is not equal to zero. Radical R₁-R₉And R₁₁And R₁₂Preferably represents hydrogen. R₁₀Can also include 14 to 32 carbon atoms and independently have an x/y ratio of 1/5 to 5/1.

Among the polymers included in this embodiment variant, mention may be made of those marketed by ISP under the trade names Ganex V-216, respectively^And Ganex V-220^PVP/hexadecane copolymer or PVP/eicosene copolymer of (a). Ganex V-216^Is a PVP/hexadecane copolymer with a weight average molecular weight of 7300 comprising about 15% to 23% pyrrolidone units. Ganex V-220^Is a PVP/eicosene copolymer with a weight average molecular weight of 8600 comprising about 20% to 28% pyrrolidone units.

The polymers according to the invention have a consistency at room temperature which can exhibit varying degrees of viscosity depending on the length of the alkyl chain. Thus, it may be in liquid form (4 to 5.5Pa-s) or paste form with a viscosity similar to 40 to 55 poise, or in solid form with a consistency close to that of a wax.

In the compositions of the present invention, the PVP copolymer may be present at a concentration of from about 0.05% to about 15%, optionally from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.25% to about 5%, by weight of the composition. The PVP copolymers of the present invention mentioned above may be used alone or in combination.

Resin composition

The composition of the present invention may also comprise at least one resin. The resins are typically available from commercial manufacturers in the form of water-insoluble latexes. Such latexes are aqueous emulsions or dispersions of polymeric materials, or resins. The resins include polymers formed from monomers, derivatives of the monomers, mixtures of derivatives of the monomers, and natural polymers and mixtures thereof. The resin also includes chemically modified versions of the above polymers. These compositions of the present invention comprise from about 0.1% to about 30%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 25%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 2% to about 8%, by weight of the composition, of resin. In addition, the compositions of the present invention will comprise no more than about 50%, more preferably from about 1% to about 40%, even more preferably from about 5% to about 20%, most preferably from about 10% to about 17%, by weight of the composition, of latex.

The water insoluble latex comprising the desired resin comprises monomers selected from the group consisting of: aromatic vinyls, dienes, vinyl cyanides, vinyl halides, vinylidene halides, vinyl esters, olefins and isomers thereof, vinyl pyrrolidones, unsaturated carboxylic acids, alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids, hydroxy derivatives of alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids, amino compounds of unsaturated carboxylic acids, amine derivatives of unsaturated carboxylic acids, glycidyl derivatives of alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids, olefinic diamines and isomers, aromatic diamines, terephthaloyl halides, alkene polyols and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the monomer is selected from the group consisting of aromatic vinyls, dienes, vinyl esters, olefins and their isomers, unsaturated carboxylic acids, alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids, hydroxy derivatives of alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids, amino compounds of unsaturated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof. In another embodiment, the monomer is selected from the group consisting of aromatic vinyl, dienes, vinyl esters, alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids, hydroxy derivatives of alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof. Polymerization methods for preparing resin-containing latexes are well known in the art. This method is disclosed in Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 14, "Latextechnology", third edition, 1981, by Kirk Otimer; this document is incorporated herein by reference.

Specific latexes useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, Syntran from Interpolymercorporation^Series (latices), e.g. Syntran 5170^PolymerEX33-9 and Syntran 5130^(with additional Ammonia, propane)Acrylate copolymers of glycols, preservatives and surfactants) and Syntran 5002^(styrene/acrylate/methacrylate copolymers formulated with additional ammonia, propylene glycol, preservatives and surfactants); from Rohm&The Primal series (acrylic latex) by Haas; apretan V from Hoechst^(styrene/acrylate copolymer latex); vinac from Air Products^(polyvinyl acetate latex); UCAR latex resins 130 from Union carbide^(polyvinyl acetate latex); rhodopas A from Rhone Poulenc^Series (polyvinyl acetate latex); apretan MB, EM, TV from Hoechst^(vinyl acetate/ethylene copolymer latex); series 200 from Dow Chemical (styrene/butadiene copolymer latex); rhodopas SB from Rhone Poulenc^Series (styrene-based butadiene copolymer latex); witcobond from Witco^(polyurethane latex); hycar from Goodrich^Series (butadiene/acrylonitrile copolymer latex); chemigum from Goodyear^Series (butadiene/acrylonitrile copolymer latices) and Neo Cryl from ICIResins^(styrene/acrylate/acrylonitrile copolymer latex). In a preferred embodiment, the latex comprises an ammonium acrylate copolymer.

Wax

When incorporated into a wax, it includes the highest level of solids in the compositions of the present invention. Waxes are typically used at levels of from about 1% to about 20%, optionally, from about 2% to about 18%, or from about 3% to about 15%, by weight of the composition.

Waxes are defined as high molecular weight, low melting organic mixtures or compounds, solid at room temperature and generally similar in composition to fats and oils except that they do not contain glycerides. Some waxes are hydrocarbons and others are esters of fatty acids and alcohols. The wax used in the present invention is selected from the group consisting of animal waxes, vegetable waxes, mineral waxes, synthetic waxes petroleum waxes, olefinic polymers, hydrocarbons such as Fischer-Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes and mixtures thereof, wherein the wax has a melting point of 55 ℃ to 100 ℃ and a needle penetration at 25 ℃ of 3 to 40 measured according to the american standard ASTM D5. The needle penetration measurement principle as described in the us standard ASTM D5 consists of the following steps: the depth, expressed in tenths of a millimeter, until a standard needle (weighing 2.5g and placed in a needle holder weighing 47.5g, i.e. a total weight of 50g) is placed on the wax for 5 seconds to penetrate.

Specific waxes useful in the present invention are selected from beeswax, lanolin wax, shellac wax (animal waxes); carnauba wax, candelilla wax, fruits of laurel (vegetable wax); ozokerite, ceresin, (mineral waxes); paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax (petroleum wax); polyethylene, (olefinic polymers); polyethylene homopolymers (Fischer-Tropsch waxes); C24-C45 alkylmethylsiloxanes (silicone waxes); and mixtures thereof. Most preferred are beeswax, lanolin wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerite wax, ceresin wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene, C24-C45 alkylmethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Fat

Fats are glycerides of higher fatty acids such as stearic acid and palmitic acid. Such esters and mixtures thereof are solid at room temperature and exhibit a crystalline structure. Fats are typically used at levels of from about 5% to about 50%, preferably from about 10% to about 25%, most preferably from about 10% to about 20%, by weight of the solids contained in the present invention.

The fat used according to the present invention is selected from the group consisting of fats from animal, vegetable, synthetically derived fats and mixtures thereof, wherein said fat has a melting point of from about 55 ℃ to about 100 ℃. And a needle penetration at 25 ℃ of from about 3 to about 40 as measured according to U.S. standard ASTM D5. Preferably, the fat is selected from the group consisting of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl hexadecanoate, C18-C36 triglycerides, glyceryl tribehenate, C18-C36 triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

In the present invention, the amount of phospholipid (e.g., lecithin) is at least 0.1% by weight of the composition, and the ratio of fat (e.g., glyceryl monostearate) to phospholipid is from about 2: 1 to about 20: 1, optionally from about 3: 1 to about 12: 1, or from about 3.5: 1 to about 10.5: 1.

Dermatologically acceptable carrier

Optionally, the compositions of the present invention comprise a dermatologically acceptable carrier. The carrier can be volatile or nonvolatile. Suitable carriers are those that can dissolve or uniformly disperse the components of the present invention. They include, but are not limited to, water, lower alcohols (e.g., ethanol, isopropanol), dihydric alcohols such as propylene glycol and butylene glycol, polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, hydroalcoholic mixtures, hydrocarbons (e.g., isobutane, hexane, decene, acetone), halogenated hydrocarbons (e.g., freon), linalool, hydrocarbyl esters (e.g., ethyl acetate, dibutyl phthalate), volatile silicon derivatives, especially siloxanes (e.g., phenyl pentamethyl disiloxane, phenethyl pentamethyl disiloxane, methoxypropyl heptamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, chloropropyl pentamethyl disiloxane, hydroxypropyl pentamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane), and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the carrier is selected from the group consisting of water, ethanol, volatile silicon derivatives, and mixtures thereof. U.S. patent 5,750,096 to Gerald j. guskey et al, published on 12.5.1998, further describes volatile or non-volatile carriers for use in the present invention.

Pigment (I)

The compositions of the present invention may optionally comprise a dermatologically acceptable pigment selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and organic lake pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. When pigments are used, the proportions in which they are present depend on the colour which it is desired to produce and on its shade. The pigment content in the solids portion of the composition is from about 3% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 15%, most preferably from about 5% to about 10%. The pigment may optionally be surface treated with treatments including, but not limited to, siloxanes, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.

Inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of: rutile titanium dioxide, anatase titanium dioxide (both of which are incorporated by reference in the Color Index (Color Index) under the reference item CI 77891); black, yellow and red iron oxides (CI 77499, 77492 and 77491); bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163); manganese violet (CI 77742); ultramarine (CI 77007); chromium oxide (CI 77288); chromium hydroxide (CI 77289); iron ferrocyanide (CI 77510); zinc oxide (CI77947) and mixtures thereof.

Organic pigments useful in the present invention include dyes and similar lakes selected from the group consisting of D & C red 6(CI 15850); d & C Red 7(CI 15850: 1); d & C Red 21(CI 45380: 2); d & C red 22(CI 45380); d & C Red 27(CI 45410: 1); d & C red 28(CI 45410); d & C red 30(CI 73360); d & C red 33(CI 17200); d & C Red 34(CI 15880: 1); d & C red 36(CI 12085); d & C orange 4(CI 15510); d & C orange 5(CI 45370: 1); d & C orange 11(CI 45425); FD & C yellow 5(CI 19140), FD & C yellow 6(CI 15985); d & C yellow 10(CI 47005); FD & C green 3(CI 42053); d & C green 5(CI 61570); FD & C blue 1(CI 42090); cochineal carmine (CI 75470); guanine (CI 75170), and mixtures thereof.

Pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include those mica (or plate-like substrates) coated with any of the following either alone or in combination: titanium dioxide, bismuth oxyfluoride, iron oxide, ferric ferrocyanide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, and any of the organic pigment types mentioned above, and mixtures thereof.

Hydrophobic conditioning agent

The compositions of the present invention may optionally comprise one or more hydrophobic conditioning agents. Preferably, the weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter of the hydrophobic conditioning agent is less than or equal to 12. It has been recognized that for hydrophobic conditioning agents comprising two or more compounds, if one of the compounds has an individual solubility parameter greater than 12, it is possible to achieve the necessary weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter, i.e., less than or equal to 12, based on such a mathematical definition of the solubility parameter.

Dissolution parameters are well known to the ordinary formulator in the art and are commonly used as a guide to determine the compatibility and solubility of raw materials during the formulation process.

The solubility parameter δ of a compound is defined as the square root of the cohesive energy density of the compound. Typically, from the tabulated values of the contribution of the additional group to the heat of vaporization and the molar volumes of the components of the compound, the solubility parameter of the compound is calculated using the formula:

wherein ∑_iE_iThe sum of the heats of vaporization contributed by the additional group;

∑_jm_jsum of molar volume contributed by the additional group

The standard tabulated values of the heat of vaporization and molar volume contributed by the additional groups to the various atoms and atomic groups are compiled by Barton, a.f.m. "Handbook of solubliityparameters", CRC Press, chapter 6, table 3, pages 64 to 66 (1985). The above equation for dissolution Parameters is described in Fedors, R.F., "A Method for estimating the solution Parameters and Molar volume Liquids", Polymer Engineering and Science, Vol.14, No. 2, pp.147 to 154 (2 months 1974).

The dissolution parameters follow the law of mixtures, so that by a weighted arithmetic mean (i.e. a weighted average) of the dissolution parameters of the components in the mixture, the dissolution parameters of the mixture of substances can be derived. See, Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, 57 th edition, CRC Press, p.C-726 (1976-.

Dissolution parameters for various chemicals may also be tabulated. The tabulated values of the solubility parameters can be found in the "Handbook of solublityparameters" above. See also "solublity effect sin Product, Package, pennetration, andPreservation", C.D. Vaughan, "Cosmetics and Toiletries", Vol.103, 10 months 1988, pp.47 to 69.

Non-limiting examples of hydrophobic conditioning agents include those selected from the group consisting of: mineral oil, petrolatum, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, lanolin derivatives, branched chain hydrocarbons of C7-C40, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, monoglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, diglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C30 carboxylic acid monoesters and polyesters of sugars, polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, cyclomethicones having 3 to 9 silicon atoms, vegetable oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil, polypropylene glycol C4-C20 alkyl ethers, di C8-C30 alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.

Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms are useful herein. Non-limiting examples of such hydrocarbon materials include dodecane, isododecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, docosane (i.e., C)₂₂Hydrocarbons), hexadecane, isohexadecane (produced by Presperse, South Plainfield, NJ as Permethyl)^Commercially available hydrocarbons sold as 101A). C7-C40 isoparaffins, a class of C7-C40 branched chain hydrocarbons, are useful in the present invention. Polydecene, a branched liquid hydrocarbon, is also useful in the present invention and is available under the trade name Puresyn 100^And Puresyn 3000^From Mobile Chemical (Edison, NJ).

Also useful are the C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, which include straight and branched chain species as well as aromatic derivatives. Also useful are esters, such as monoglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, diglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, triglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, and propylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids. The present invention includes straight chain, branched chain and aryl carboxylic acids. Also useful are propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives of these materials. Non-limiting examples include diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, myristyl propionate, ethylene glycol distearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate, cetyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl dilinoleate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-8 caprylic/capric triglyceride, and combinations thereof.

Also useful are various C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the component acid and sugar, these esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraester of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), mannose tetraester of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, galactose tetraester of oleic acid, arabinose tetraester of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaester of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester, wherein the carboxylate moiety is palmitoleate and arachidic ester in a 1: 2 molar ratio; octaesters of raffinose in which the carboxylate moiety is linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3 molar ratio; heptaesters of maltose wherein the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and tetracosanoic acid esters in a 3: 4 molar ratio; octaesters of sucrose in which the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2: 6 molar ratio; octaesters of sucrose in which the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, oleate and behenate in a 1: 3: 4 molar ratio. Preferred solid materials are sucrose polyesters, wherein the degree of esterification is from 7 to 8 and wherein the fatty acid moieties are C18 mono-and/or di-unsaturated fatty acids and behenic acid, wherein the molar ratio of unsaturated fatty acid to behenic acid is from 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is sucrose octaester, where about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety are present in the molecule. Other materials include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose. These ester materials are also described in U.S. patent 2,831,854 and U.S. patent 4,005,196 to Jandacek, published on 25.1.1977; U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,005,195 to Jandacek, published 1977, month 1, 25; letton et al, US 5,306,516 issued on 26/4/1994; letton et al, US 5,306,515 issued on 26/4/1994; letton et al, US 5,305,514 issued on 26/4/1994; U.S. patent 4,797,300 to Jandacek et al, published on 10.1.1989; U.S. patent 3,963,699 to Rizzi et al, published on 15/6/1976; U.S. Pat. No. 4,518,772 to Volpenhein published at 21/5 1985 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,517,360 to Volpenhein published at 21/5 1985.

Nonvolatile silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes are also useful oils. These siloxanes are described in U.S. patent 5,069,897 to Orr, published on 3.12.1991. The polyalkylsiloxanes correspond to the general chemical formula R₃SiO[R₂SiO]_xSiR₃Where R is an alkyl group (R is preferably methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to about 500, these parameters being selected to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, also known as dimethicones, non-limiting examples of which include Vicasil sold by general electric company^Series and Dow Corning sold by Dow Corning^200 series. Specific examples of polydimethylsiloxanes useful herein include Dow Corning having a viscosity of 10 centistokes and a boiling point greater than 200 ℃^225 fluid, anddow Corning with viscosity of 50,350 and 12,500 centistokes and boiling point of more than 200 ℃ respectively^200 fluid. It is also possible to use substances such as trimethylsiloxysilicates which correspond to the general formula [ (CH2)3SiO1/2]x[SiO2]y, wherein x is an integer from about 1 to about 500, and y is an integer from about 1 to about 500. Commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with polydimethylsiloxane under the trade name Dow Corning^593 a fluid. Also useful herein are dimethiconols, which are hydroxy terminated dimethyl siloxanes. These substances may be of the general formula R3SiO [ R2SiO ] or]xSiR2OH and HOR2SiO [ R2SiO ]]xSiR2OH, wherein R is an alkyl group (R is preferably methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to about 500, these parameters being selected to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically used as a mixture of dimethicones or cyclomethicones (e.g., Dow Corning)^1401. 1402 and 1403 fluids). Also useful herein are polyalkylaryl siloxanes, with polymethylphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity of about 15 to about 65 centistokes at 25℃ being preferred. These materials are available, for example, as SF1075 methylphenyl liquid (sold by general electric company) and 556 cosmetic grade phenyl trimethicone (sold by Dow Corning). Alkylated siloxanes such as methyl decyl siloxane and methyl octyl siloxane are useful in the present invention and are available from general electric company. Also useful herein are alkyl modified silicones such as alkyl methicones and alkyl dimethicones wherein the alkyl chain contains from 10 to 50 carbon atoms. Such siloxanes are available under the trade name ABIL WAX 9810 (C)₂₄-C₂₈Alkylmethicone) (sold by Goldschmidt) and SF1632 (cetearyl methicone) (sold by general electric company). Also particularly useful as formulation adjuvants/conditioners are dimethicone/dimethicone copolyol mixtures. Suitable mixtures are sold under the trade name DC 3225Q^And (5) selling.

Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils are also useful herein. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated safflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful are the C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycol, the C1-C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycol, and the di-C8-C30 alkyl ethers. Non-limiting examples of such materials include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

Hydrophobic chelating agents are also useful herein as hydrophobic conditioning agents. Suitable agents are described in U.S. patent 4,387,244 to Scanlon et al, published 6/7 1983.

Preferred hydrophobic conditioning agents are selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, petrolatum, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, lanolin derivatives, C7-C40 branched chain hydrocarbons, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, monoglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, diglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, triglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C30 carboxylic acid monoesters and polyesters of sugars, polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, cyclomethicones having 3 to 9 silicon atoms, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils, polypropylene glycol C4-C20 alkyl ethers, di-C8-C30 alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.

Hydrophilic conditioning agent

The compositions of the present invention may also include one or more hydrophilic conditioning agents. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic conditioning agents include those selected from the group consisting of: polyols, polypropylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ureas, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated C3-C6 diols and triols, alpha-hydroxy C2-C6 carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated sugars, polyacrylic acid copolymers, sugars having up to about 12 carbon atoms, sugar alcohols having up to about 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples of useful hydrophilic conditioning agents include such materials as urea, guanidine, glycolic acid and glycolate salts (e.g., ammonium salts and alkyl quaternary ammonium salts), lactic acid and lactate salts (e.g., ammonium salts and alkyl quaternary ammonium salts), sucrose, fructose, glucose, erythrose, erythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, glycerol, hexanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and the like, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-2, PEG-3, PEG-30, PEG-50, polypropylene glycols such as PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17, PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30, PPG-34, alkoxylated glucose, hyaluronic acid, cationic skin conditioning polymers (e.g., quaternary ammonium polymers such as polyquaternary ammonium polymers), and mixtures thereof. Glycerin is a particularly preferred hydrophilic conditioning agent in the products of the present invention. Also useful are materials such as aloe in its various forms (e.g., aloe vera gel), chitosan and chitosan derivatives such as chitosan lactate, lactamide monoethanolamine, acetamide monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof. Also useful are propoxylated glycerols described in propoxylated glycerols in U.S. Pat. No. 4,976,953 to Orr et al, published on 11/12/1990.

Structure conditioner

The compositions of the present invention may also include a structure conditioning agent. Suitable structure conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, vesicular structures such as ceramides, liposomes, and the like.

Coacervates

The presently claimed compositions may also include cosmetic agents that are capable of forming coacervates. Preferably, the coacervate-forming cosmetic benefit agent comprises a cationic polymer, an anionic polymer, and a dermatologically acceptable carrier of a polymer and a surfactant. The cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of natural backbone quaternary ammonium polymers, synthetic backbone quaternary ammonium polymers, natural backbone amphoteric polymers, synthetic backbone amphoteric polymers, and combinations thereof.

The cationic polymer is more preferably selected from natural backbone quaternary ammonium polymers selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, PG-hydroxyethylcellulose alkyldimethylammonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and combinations thereof; a synthetic backbone quaternary ammonium polymer selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-46, polyisomethacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers, and combinations thereof; a natural backbone amphoteric polymer selected from the group consisting of chitosan, quaternized protein, hydrolyzed protein, and combinations thereof; a synthetic backbone amphoteric polymer selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, adipic acid/dimethylaminopropyl diethylenetriamine copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, vinylcaprolactam/polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide terpolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer, polyamine, and combinations thereof; and compositions thereof. Even more preferably, the cationic polymer is a synthetic backbone amphoteric polymer. Even more preferably still, the cationic polymer is a polyamine.

When the cationic polymer is a polyamine, the cationic polyamine polymer is preferably selected from the group consisting of polyethyleneimine, polyvinylamine, polypropyleneamine, polylysine, and combinations thereof. Even more preferably, the cationic polyamine polymer is a polyethyleneimine.

In some embodiments where the cationic polymer is a polyamine, the polyamine can be a hydrophobically or hydrophilically modified polyamine. In this case, the cationic polyamine polymer is selected from the group consisting of benzylated polyamines, ethoxylated polyamines, propoxylated polyamines, alkylated polyamines, amidated polyamines, esterified polyamines, and combinations thereof. The composition comprises from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 10%, most preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of a cationic polymer.

Preferably, for coacervate forming cosmetic benefit agents, the anionic surfactant is selected from sarcosinates, glutamates, sodium alkyl sulfates, ammonium alkyl sulfates, sodium alkyl polyoxyethylene ether sulfates, ammonium lauryl polyoxyethylene ether ortho sulfates, sodium lauryl polyoxyethylene ether ortho sulfates, isethionates, glyceryl ether sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, monosodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium alkyl sulfate, ammonium alkyl sulfate, sodium alkyl polyoxyethylene ether sulfate, ammonium alkyl polyoxyethylene ether sulfate, and combinations thereof.

Alternatively, the coacervate-forming cosmetic benefit agent may comprise an anionic polymer, a cationic surfactant, and a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the polymer and surfactant. The anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of polyacrylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, copolymers of acrylic acid, acrylamide and other natural or synthetic polymers (e.g., polystyrene, polybutylene, polyurethane, etc.), naturally derived gums, and combinations thereof. Suitable gums include alginate esters (e.g., propylene glycol alginate), pectin, chitosan (e.g., chitosan lactate), and modified gums (e.g., octyl starch succinate), and combinations thereof. More preferably, the anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyacrylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, pectin, chitosan, and combinations thereof. Suitable cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, those described in the present invention.

Vitamin compound

The compositions of the present invention may include vitamin compositions, precursors and derivatives thereof. These vitamin compounds may be in natural or synthetic form. Suitable vitamin compounds include, but are not limited to, vitamin a (e.g., beta-carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, etc.), vitamin B (e.g., niacin, niacinamide, riboflavin, pantothenic acid, etc.), vitamin C (e.g., ascorbic acid, etc.), vitamin D (e.g., ergosterol, ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol, etc.), vitamin E (e.g., tocopherol acetate, etc.), and vitamin K (e.g., phytomenadione, menadione, tuberculonaphthoquinone, etc.) compounds.

For example, vitamin B₃The compounds are particularly useful for regulating skin conditions, as described in co-pending U.S. application serial No. 08/834,010 filed on 11/4/1997 (corresponding to international publication WO 97/39733a1 published on 30/10/1997), which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5% of vitamin B₃A compound is provided.

"vitamin B" used in the present invention₃Compound "refers to a compound having the formula:

wherein R is-CONH₂(i.e., nicotinamide), -COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid), or-CH₂OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); and derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.

The aforementioned vitamin B₃Examples of derivatives of the compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid; a nicotinyl amino acid; nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids; nicotinic acid N-oxide and nicotinamide N-oxide.

Suitable vitamin B₃Examples of compounds are well known in the artKnown and available from a variety of commercial sources, such as Sigma Chemical Company (st. louis, MO), ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA), and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).

The vitamin compound may be included as a substantially pure substance or used as an extract obtained from a natural (e.g., plant) source by suitable physical and/or chemical separation means.

Anti-acne active

Examples of anti-acne actives to which the present invention is applicable include, but are not limited to, keratolytics, such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid, such as 5-octanoylsalicylic acid, and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, especially their N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; lipoic acid; antibiotics and antimicrobial substances such as benzoyl peroxide, octopirox, tetracycline, 2, 4, 4 ' -trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3, 4, 4 ' -trichlorobanilide, azelaic acid and its derivatives, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, ethyl acetate, clindamycin and meclocycline; sebaceous salts (sebastestsebostats) such as flavonoids; and bile salts such as scymnol sulfate and its derivatives, deoxycholate and cholate.

Active substance for anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy

Examples of anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives useful in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); a vitamin A; a retinoic acid ester; nicotinamide and derivatives thereof; sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, especially their N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; mercaptans, such as ethanethiol; terpene alcohols (e.g., farnesol); hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, alpha-hydroxy acids (such as lactic acid and glycolic acid), beta-hydroxy acids (such as salicylic acid), and skin exfoliating agents (such as phenol and the like).

Enzyme

The compositions of the present invention may include one or more enzymes. Preferably, this type of enzyme is dermatologically acceptable. Suitable enzymes include, but are not limited to, keratinases, proteases, amylases, subtilisins, other peptides and proteins, and the like.

Peptides include, but are not limited to, dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, and pentapeptides and derivatives thereof, which may be included as cosmetic benefit agents of the present invention in safe and effective amounts. As used herein, "peptide" refers to both naturally occurring and synthetic peptides. Also useful in the present invention are naturally occurring and commercially available compositions comprising peptides.

Sunscreen active

Also useful herein as cosmetic benefit agents are sunscreen actives. Various sunscreens are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445 to Haffey et al, published 2/11 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372 to Turner et al, published 1991, 12, 17; U.S. patent 5,073,371 to Turner et al, published 12, 17, 1991 and "Cosmetics Science and technology" to Sagarin et al, Chapter 8, page 189, and the following, among others. Non-limiting examples of sunscreens which may be used in the compositions of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octyl cyanacrylate, oxybenzone, homomenthol salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4' -methoxy tert-butyl dibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide, silicon dioxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof. Other useful sunscreens are those disclosed in U.S. patent 4,937,370 to Sabatelli, published at 26.6.1990 and U.S. patent 4,999,186 to Sabatelli et al, published at 12.3.1991. Particularly preferred examples of such sunscreens include those selected from the group consisting of: 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoate of 2, 4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoate with 4-hydroxybenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoate of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoate of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, and mixtures thereof. The exact amount of sunscreen that can be used will depend on the sunscreen selected and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF). SPF is a common measure of photoprotection of a sunscreen against erythema.

Chelating agents

The bonding agent of the composition of the present invention may also include a chelating agent as a cosmetic benefit agent. As used herein, "chelating agent" refers to an active agent that is capable of removing metal ions from a system by forming a complex, thereby rendering the metal ions less susceptible to participating in or catalyzing a chemical reaction. The inclusion of a chelating agent is particularly useful for providing protection against ultraviolet radiation which can cause excessive flaking or skin structure changes, and against other environmental agents which can cause skin damage.

A safe and effective amount of a chelating agent may be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition. Exemplary chelating agents suitable for use in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. patent No. 5,487,884 to Bissett et al, published on 30/1/1996; international publication 91/16035 to Bush et al published on month 10 and 31 in 1995 and international publication 91/16034 to Bush et al published on month 10 and 31 in 1995. Preferred chelating agents for use in the compositions of the present invention are furildioxime, furildioxime derivatives, furildioxime monoximes, furildioxime derivatives, and combinations thereof.

Flavonoids

The compositions of the present invention may also include a flavonoid compound. Flavonoids are widely disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,686,082 and 5,686,367. Flavonoids suitable for use in the present invention are flavanones selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted flavanones, mono-substituted flavanones, and mixtures thereof; chalcones selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted chalcones, mono-substituted chalcones, di-substituted chalcones, tri-substituted chalcones, and mixtures thereof; a flavone selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted flavones, mono-substituted flavones, di-substituted flavones, and mixtures thereof; one or more isoflavones; a coumarin selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted coumarin, mono-substituted coumarin, di-substituted coumarin, and mixtures thereof; a chromone selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted chromones, mono-substituted chromones, di-substituted chromones, and mixtures thereof; one or more bishydroxycoumarins; one or more chroman-4-ones; one or more chromanols; and isomers thereof (e.g., cis or trans); and mixtures thereof. The term "substituted" as used herein refers to flavonoids wherein one or more hydrogen atoms on the flavonoid are independently replaced by: hydroxyl, C1-C8 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy, O-glucoside, etc., or mixtures of these substituents.

Examples of suitable flavonoids include, but are not limited to, unsubstituted flavanones, monohydroxyflavanones (e.g., 2 ' -hydroxyflavanone, 6-hydroxyflavanone, 7-hydroxyflavanone, and the like), monoalkoxyflavanones (e.g., 5-methoxyflavanone, 6-methoxyflavanone, 7-methoxyflavanone, 4 ' -methoxyflavanone, and the like), unsubstituted chalcones (especially unsubstituted trans chalcones), monohydroxychalcones (e.g., 2 ' -hydroxychalcone, 4 ' -hydroxychalcone, and the like), dihydroxychalcones (e.g., 2 ', 4-dihydroxychalcone, 2 ', 4 ' -dihydroxychalcone, 2 ' -dihydroxychalcone, 2 ', 3-dihydroxychalcone, 2 ', 5 ' -dihydroxychalcone, and the like), and trihydroxychalcones (e.g., 2 ', 3 ', 4 ' -trihydroxychalcone, 4,2 ', 4 ' -trihydroxychalcone, 2 ', 4 ' -trihydroxychalcone, etc.), unsubstituted flavone, 7,2 ' -dihydroxyflavone, 3 ', 4 ' -dihydroxynaphthalenone, 4 ' -hydroxyflavone, 5, 6-benzoflavone and 7, 8-benzoflavone, unsubstituted isoflavone, daidzein (7, 4 ' -dihydroxyisoflavone), 5, 7-dihydroxy-4 ' -methoxyisoflavone, soy isoflavone (a mixture extracted from soy), unsubstituted coumarin, 4-hydroxycoumarin, 7-hydroxycoumarin, 6-hydroxy-4-methylcoumarin, unsubstituted chromone, 3-formylchromone, 3-formyl-6-isopropylchromone, and the like, Unsubstituted dicoumarins, unsubstituted chroman-4-ones, unsubstituted chromanols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred for use in the present invention are unsubstituted flavanones, methoxy flavanones, unsubstituted chalcones, 2', 4-dihydroxychalcones, and mixtures thereof. Most preferred are unsubstituted flavanones, unsubstituted chalcones (especially the trans isomers), and mixtures thereof.

They may be synthetic substances or extracts obtained from natural sources (e.g. plants). The naturally derived material may also be further derivatized (e.g., to prepare glycosides, esters, or ethers after extraction from the natural source). Flavonoids useful in the present invention are available from a number of companies, such as Indofine Chemical Company, inc. (Somerville, New Jersey), Steralodids, inc. (Wilton, New Hampshire) and Aldrich Chemical Company, inc.

Mixtures of the above flavonoid compounds may also be used.

The flavonoid compounds described in the present invention are preferably present in the present invention at a concentration of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.

Sterols

Sterols may also be included in the claimed compositions. Examples of sterol compounds that can be used include sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, lanosterol, 7-dehydrocholesterol, and mixtures thereof. They may be synthetic or derived from natural sources, such as mixtures extracted from plants (e.g., phytosterols).

Anti-cellulitis agent

The cosmetic composition may further comprise an anti-cellulite agent. Suitable agents may include, but are not limited to, xanthine compounds (e.g., caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, and aminophylline), adenylate cyclase, and derivatives thereof.

Skin lightening agent

Other suitable cosmetic benefit agents that may be included in the compositions of the present invention are skin lightening agents. When a skin lightening agent is used, the composition preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, still more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, by weight of the composition, of the skin lightening agent. Suitable skin lightening agents include those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, deoxyarbutin, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate or other salts of ascorbyl phosphate.

Examples

The cosmetic products in the following examples illustrate specific embodiments of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, but are not intended to be limiting thereof. Other variations may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. All exemplary compositions can be prepared by conventional formulation and mixing techniques. The listed component amounts are weight percentages and exclude minor components such as diluents, fillers, and the like. Thus, the listed formulations include the listed components and any minor components associated with the components.

Example #1 permanent Mascara

Substance(s)	(w/w)％
		Phase A:
glyceryl monostearate1	8.91
		C18-C36Acid triglyceride	6.09
White beeswax	3.25
		Lecithin2	2.5
Carnauba wax	2.0
		Tricontanyl PVP3	3.0
Stearic acid	3.4
		Potassium cetyl phosphate	1.6
Phase B:
		deionized water	41.6
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid trisodium salt	0.1
		And C phase:
micronized black pigment	6.4
		Phase D:
polydimethylsiloxane	0.2
		Phase E:
triethanolamine	2.25
		Oleic acid	0.75
And (3) phase F:
		ethanol	1.0
Phenoxyethanol	0.28
		P-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester	0.25
P-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester	0.25
		Benzyl alcohol	0.65
Deionized water	1.02
		DL-panthenol	0.35
Phase G:
		ammonium acrylate copolymer4	14.15

¹Glyceryl monostearate, Emerest 2400 from Henkel/Emery

²Lecithin, Phospholipon 80 from American Lecithin

³Tricontanyl PVP, Ganex WP-660 from ISP

⁴Ammonium acrylate copolymers, water-based acrylate copolymer dispersions from interpolymers

Example #2 thickened Mascara

Substance(s)	(w/w)％
		Phase A:
glyceryl monostearate1	6.35
		C18-C36Acid triglyceride	4.15
Lecithin2	1.0
		PVP/eicosene copolymers5	5.25
Carnauba wax	2.25
		Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate	0.1
Tricontanyl PVP3	5.25
		Stearic acid	4.0
Potassium cetyl phosphate	1.0
		Phase B:
deionized water	43.67
		Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid trisodium salt	0.1
And C phase:
		micronized black pigment	6.0
Phase D:
		polydimethylsiloxane	0.2
Phase E:
		triethanolamine	2.0
Oleic acid	1.0
		And (3) phase F:
ethanol	1.0
		Phenoxyethanol	0.28
P-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester	0.2
		P-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester	0.2
Benzyl alcohol	0.65
		DL-panthenol	0.35
Phase G:
		ammonium acrylate copolymer4	15.0

¹Glyceryl monostearate, Emerest 2400 from Henkel/Emery

²Lecithin, Phospholipon 80 from American Lecithin

³Tricontanyl PVP, Ganex WP-660 from ISP

⁴Ammonium acrylate copolymers, water-based acrylate copolymer dispersions from interpolymers

⁵PVP/eicosene Polymer Ganex V-220 from ISP

Example #3 permanent Mascara

Substance(s)	(w/w)％
		Phase A:
glyceryl monostearate1	9.09
		C18-C36Acid triglyceride	5.88
White beeswax	3.48
		Lecithin2	2.5
Paraffin wax	2.41
		Carnauba wax	2.14
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate	0.1
		Tricontanyl PVP3	1.6
Stearic acid	4.0
		Potassium cetyl phosphate	1.0
Phase B:
		deionized water	41.0
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid trisodium salt	0.1
		And C phase:
micronized black pigment	6.4
		Phase D:
polydimethylsiloxane	0.2
		Phase E:
triethanolamine	2.25
		And (3) phase F:
ethanol	1.0
		Phenoxyethanol	0.5
P-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester	0.2
		P-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester	0.2
Benzyl alcohol	0.65
		Deionized water	0.87
DL-panthenol	0.28
		Phase G:
ammonium acrylate copolymer4	14.15

¹Glyceryl monostearate, Emerest 2400 from Henkel/Emery

²Lecithin, Centroex F lecithin from Central Soya

³Tricontanyl PVP, Ganex WP-660 from ISP

⁴Ammonium acrylate copolymers, water-based acrylate copolymer dispersions from interpolymers

Method of making mascara:

phase A (wax phase) was heated to 85 ℃ to 90 ℃. Once melting is initiated, low shear mixing occurs. When phase a was completely melted, phase C was added and homogenized for one hour. Homogenize for one hour before adding phase E. Once phase E was added, homogenization was stopped and mixed with moderate shear mixing for 30 minutes. Simultaneously, phase B was heated to 85 ℃ to 90 ℃ with low shear mixing. Once phase B reached 85 to 90 ℃, phase D was added and mixed for 15 minutes. The aqueous phases (B and D) were added to the wax phases (A, C and E) and emulsified at 85 ℃ for 45 minutes with moderate shear mixing. After emulsification, cooling to 50 ℃ to 53 ℃ was started. When the temperature reached 50 ℃ to 53 ℃, phase F was added and the temperature was maintained for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, cool to 47 ℃, add phase G and maintain at this temperature for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, cool to 40 ℃ and transfer it to storage vessel.

Example #4 lipstick

Substance(s)	(w/w)％
		Phase A:
cetyl alkanoate	11.24
		Palmitic acid isopropyl ester	4.8
Quaternary ammonium-18 hectorite	1.0
		Diisopropyl dimeric salt	5
Phase B:
		propylene carbonate	0.33
And C phase:
		glycerol	8.98
Ammonium acrylate copolymer3	2.5
		Phase D:
cetyl Recinolate	1.0
		Octyl methoxycinnamate	7.25
Earth wax	6.75
		Candelilla wax	1.75
Microcrystalline wax	0.75
		Tricontanyl PVP2	2.5
PG-3 diisostearate	10.05
		Lecithin1	2.0
Vitamin E acetate	0.5
		Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate	0.15
P-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester	0.15
		Benzoic acid	0.1
Titanium dioxide dissolved in diisopropyl di-poly salt	5.0
		Phase E:
pearlescent pigment	14.01
		Pigment	5.89
Diisopropyl dimeric salt	8.25
		Phase F
Ethylene Brassalate	0.05

¹Lecithin, Phospholipon 80 from American Lecithin

²Tricontanyl PVP, Ganex WP-660 from ISP

³Ammonium acrylate copolymers, water-based acrylate copolymer dispersions from interpolymers

The composition, type and shade of the pigment and pearlescent pigment vary depending on the lipstick shade.

The pigment is soluble in a solution of diisopropylbis-phosphonium salt.

A method of making a lipstick:

mix phase a in a beaker until the solids are completely dissolved. When the solid dissolved, phase B was added and mixed until the quat-18 hectorite was active (a significant increase in solution viscosity). Simultaneously, phase C is heated until the solids dissolve, then phase D is added. The A, B, C, D phases were combined and heated to 90 ℃ with moderate shear mixing. When the mixture appeared to be homogeneous, phase E was added and heating continued. The mixture was vacuumed until the bubbles were removed and the mixture was homogeneous. The vacuum was removed, phase F was added and heating continued and mixing was continued for 15 minutes. The product was transferred to a fine tube die and cooled to 0 ℃.

Example #5 eye liner

Substance(s)	(w/w)％
		Phase A:
isoparaffinsC9-C11	30.0
		Lanolin fatty acid	6
PVP/eicosene polymers2	2.4
		Carnauba wax	2.4
Lecithin1	1.9
		White beeswax	1.2
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate	0.1
		BHA	0.05
Phase B:
		hydrophobic black pigments	16.35
And C phase:
		deionized water	28.3
P-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester	0.35
		Dehydrated sodium acetate monohydrate, NF	0.3
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid trisodium salt	0.05
		Phase D:
ammonium hydroxide (27.5% solution)	0.6
		Phase E:
ammonium acrylate copolymer3	10

¹Lecithin, Phospholipon 80 from American Leci thin

²PVP/eicosene copolymer, Ganex V-220 from ISP

³Ammonio acrylate copolymer from water-based acrylate copolymer dispersions

The method for preparing the eyeliner comprises the following steps:

phase a was heated to 80 ℃ with moderate shear mixing. Once all the solids in phase A have melted, phase B is added and homogenization begins. Homogenize for one hour. A sample was taken after one hour and was determined to have good pigment dispersion. Simultaneously, phase C was heated to 80 ℃ with moderate shear mixing. When phase C reached 80 deg.C, it was added to phases A and B. Immediately after the addition of phase C, phase D was added to the mixture, the homogenizer speed was reduced, and slow cooling to 57 ℃ was begun. When the solution reached 57 ℃, phase E was added and mixed for 20 minutes at the current temperature. After 20 minutes, homogenization was stopped and cooled to 28 ℃. When the product reached 28 ℃, it was transferred to a storage vessel.

Example #6 liquid base cosmetic

Substance(s)	(w/w)％
		Phase A:
titanium dioxide	8.0
		Iron oxide	1.4
Talc (C)	4.0
		Lecithin1	1.6
Cyclodimethylsiloxane	21.5
		Cyclo-dimethylsiloxane and dimethicone copolyol	7.5
Phase B:
		PVP/hexadecene copolymer2	2.25
Ammonium acrylate copolymer3	7.05
		Deionized water	45.0
Sodium chloride	1.0
		P-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester	0.25
Polysorbate 20	0.2
		P-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester	0.25

¹Lecithin, Phospholipon 80 from American Lecithin

²PVP/hexadecene copolymer, Ganex V-216 from ISP

³Ammonium acrylate copolymers, water-based acrylate copolymer dispersions from interpolymers

The composition of these ingredients will vary depending on the shade of the color.

Method of preparing a liquid base cosmetic:

phase a was heated to 85 ℃ with low shear mixing. Mix phase a until it is completely homogeneous. Simultaneously, phase B was mixed until it was homogeneous after heating to 85 ℃. Phase a and phase B were mixed and homogenized for 15 minutes. Cool to room temperature with low shear mixing. Colloidal milling can be used on the resulting product to obtain the desired particle size (typically 0.4 to 4 microns).

Claims (11)

1. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it exhibits a transition point stress of 650Pa to 1500Pa and a high shear rate slope of less than 0.5 Pa-s.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said high shear rate slope is less than 0.25 Pa-s.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a non-aqueous primary solvent.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a primary solvent comprising water.

5. Cosmetic composition characterized in that said composition exhibits a transition point stress of 750Pa to 1200Pa and a high shear rate slope of less than 0.25 Pa-s.

6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1% to 5%, by weight of the composition, of a phospholipid having the formula:

wherein R is₁Represents C_10-20Acyl radical, R₂Represents hydrogen or C_10-20Acyl radical, R₃Represents hydrogen, 2-trimethylamino-1-ethyl, 2-amino-1-ethyl, C_1-4Alkyl, carboxy substituted C_1-5Alkyl, hydroxy substituted C_2-5Alkyl, carboxy and hydroxy substituted C_2-5Alkyl or carboxyl and amino substituted C_2-5Alkyl, inositol or glyceryl, or salts of these compounds.

7. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a dermatologically acceptable carrier.

8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a wax.

9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the composition further comprises a pigment selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic lake pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is in a product form suitable for application to keratinous tissue, the product form selected from the group consisting of lipsticks, foundations, eyeliners, lipliners, eyeshadows, rouges, mascaras, and combinations thereof.

11. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it has 85s^-1To 225s^-1And a high shear rate slope of less than 0.5 Pa-s.