CN1193729C - Cosmetic composition containing specific polysaccharide resin - Google Patents

Abstract

One embodiment of the present invention is a composition having enhanced film-forming properties. The composition of the present invention contains at least one polysaccharide resin and (b) a film-forming agent other than the at least one polysaccharide resin. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing the compositions of the invention may be transfer resistant, abrasion resistant and water resistant. The cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions of the present invention can also form films which are flexible and do not fall off or shatter.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing specific polysaccharide resin

The present invention relates to compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, with improved film formation and dispersibility. The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains at least one polysaccharide resin and has one or more properties such as transfer resistance, abrasion resistance, flexibility and ease of application. The present invention relates to cosmetic and pharmaceutical products containing such compositions.

Many cosmetic compositions containing pigments such as foundations, concealers, mascaras, liquid eyeliners and sunscreens leave a soft oily film that is highly transferable or form a brittle film that flakes or crumbles. Both of these situations lead to a reduction in the optimal durability of the composition and the need for repeated applications by the user. For example, these compositions will adhere (at least partially) to the surface of certain supports (such as glasses, teacups, clothing or skin) when in contact with them. Once attached, the composition leaves a mark on the support.

Some transfer-resistant cosmetic compositions are known in the art; however, most of these compositions require further improvement. So-called "transfer-free" cosmetics known in the art usually include fatty substances, volatile oils (especially volatile silicone oils and/or volatile hydrocarbon oils) in their composition. Consequently, most of these transfer-resistant compositions do not possess very good film-forming properties. For example, many of these anti-transfer compositions are largely tacky, so the application and coverage of such compositions still needs improvement.

One reason for poor film formation is that transfer-resistant cosmetics require the use of complex compositions in which part of the oil is replaced by volatile solvents which will evaporate on contact with the skin, leaving behind essentially waxes and/or resins, pigments, fillers A thin layer of agent and active agent. In addition to the difficulties associated with its preparation with the use of volatile compounds, this solution has other disadvantages: a whitewashed and matte effect after makeup.

Other compositions leave brittle films that flake off and crumble after application. Supports for cosmetic compositions such as skin and hair are naturally curved and coiled. However, the hard or brittle films formed by the film formers used in this field cannot be bent or stretched. Consequently, due to their brittle nature, these compositions flake or fall off, especially when these formulations are used for shaping or styling such as hair or eyelashes.

There still exists a need for a stable cosmetic composition containing a transfer-resistant and flexible film former for setting and styling, and which has good cosmetic properties such as easy application, smooth and uniform film formation, comfort, Easily removes makeup without being oily, sticky and non-flaking. It is an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic compositions having as many of these properties as possible.

In addition to the drawbacks of many film formers, there is another problem in the preparation of formulations in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, namely the dispersion of the ingredients constituting the composition. In order to get a good distribution or dispersion of the ingredients, a lot of time and energy are expended. Homogeneous dispersion of ingredients making up a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, including dispersion of pigments, will improve composition properties such as improved effects, brighter colors, better gloss, improved batch-to-batch stability, less caking and Less energy is required when mixing.

Sufficient dispersion of pigments will improve the properties of make-up. A number of products are available in the art as pigment dispersants, including KAMA KM13 (a polysaccharide resin available from KAMA International Corp., Duluth, GA). KM13 reduces the viscosity of pigmented compositions and improves the wetting of pigments, thereby improving color, gloss and ease of mixing. KM13 is also known to form films that dry in air. However, polysaccharide resins are water soluble, which is somewhat undesirable for use as film formers in transfer-resistant or abrasion-resistant compositions.

Accordingly, there is a need for compositions containing ingredients that are more easily and effectively dispersed in addition to compositions containing improved film formers. As mentioned above, the use of more effective dispersion aids will improve the properties of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products and make them more uniform.

In order to achieve these and other advantages in whole or in part, the present invention in one embodiment completes a composition comprising at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film-forming agent other than said polysaccharide resin, and they are mixed An amount effective to impart at least one of the following properties to the composition. These properties include, but are not limited to, transfer resistance of cosmetic compositions (such as mascara, eyeliner, and sunscreens); flexible film formation of cosmetic compositions (such as mascara, eyeliner, and sunscreens); Control of curling or lengthening effects of creams on eyelashes; and increase of UV light absorption of sunscreens. These characteristics will be specifically described below.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a method of forming a transfer-resistant film on a keratinous substance using at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former other than said at least one polysaccharide resin. Keratinous substances are defined herein to mean skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails. Also included in the practice of the invention is the use of at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film-forming agent other than said at least one polysaccharide resin on keratinous substances to form a flexible, non-brittle film. Another aspect of the invention is the formation of transfer resistant flexible films.

In another embodiment, the invention relates to the use on keratin fibers of a composition comprising at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film-forming agent other than said at least one polysaccharide resin, whereby on these keratin fibers A method of producing curling or styling effects.

The present invention also relates to a method of effectively controlling the growth effect and/or volume of a mascara product on the eyelashes. Specifically, brush the eyelashes containing at least one polysaccharide resin, at least one film-forming agent other than the at least one polysaccharide resin, at least one volatile solvent and at least one microsphere particle layer by layer Cream composition until desired length or volume of lashes is achieved.

In another embodiment, the present invention is directed to a method of increasing the ultraviolet (UV) absorption properties of a sunscreen composition by including at least one polysaccharide resin in the sunscreen composition.

Another embodiment of the invention is the use of a composition comprising a polysaccharide resin and optionally at least one film-forming agent other than said at least one polysaccharide resin, for dispersing ingredients of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, such as those comprising (but not limited to) pigments and/or compounds that disperse UV light.

Examples of the present invention will now be described in detail.

In particular, the present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film-forming agent other than said at least one polysaccharide resin in an amount sufficient to impart at least one specific characteristic to the composition . In a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a transfer-resistant cosmetic composition, wherein at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film-forming agent are present in admixed amounts sufficient to impart transfer-resistant properties to the composition. Such a transfer-resistant cosmetic composition may be a mascara, eyeliner or sunscreen composition. Each composition is discussed in detail below. Such transfer-resistant cosmetic compositions may be selected from, but not limited to, liquid foundations, concealers, blushes, eye shadows, lipsticks, and nail polishes.

In addition to a transfer-resistant cosmetic composition, the present invention also relates to a method for forming a transfer-resistant film by applying to keratinous substances at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film-forming agent other than said at least one polysaccharide resin .

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for forming a flexible film, wherein the composition contains at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film-forming agent other than said at least one polysaccharide resin to effectively impart flexibility to the film. Quantity exists. In the present invention, flexibility is defined as the durability of the film under motion conditions, such as facial expressions, ie the film in this embodiment of the present invention resists falling off or becoming brittle. The cosmetic composition forming a flexible film may be, for example, a mascara, eyeliner or sunscreen composition. The film formed by the composition in the embodiment of the present invention has at least one of the following properties:

Good adsorption to the substrate, flexibility, abrasion resistance, short drying time, non-stick, good retention, resistance to transfer and/or less shedding over time, etc.

The cosmetic composition forming a flexible film may be selected from, but not limited to, liquid foundations, concealers, blushes, eye shadows, lipsticks, and nail polishes.

Another embodiment of the present invention is a method of forming a flexible film by applying at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former other than the at least one polysaccharide resin to a keratinous substance.

Another embodiment of the present invention revolves around a transfer resistant and flexible film forming composition comprising at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former in addition to said at least one polysaccharide resin , present in a blended amount effective to impart transfer resistance and flexibility to the film. Cosmetic compositions that form a transfer-resistant and flexible film can be eg mascara, liquid eyeliner, sunscreen, liquid foundation, concealer, blush, eye shadow, lipstick or nail polish.

In addition to the cosmetic composition for forming a transfer-resistant flexible film, another embodiment of the present invention relates to the method of applying at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film-forming agent other than said at least one polysaccharide resin to the horn A method for forming transfer-resistant flexible films on protein substances.

Films are formed when the solvent evaporates at a rate conducive to continuous and sufficiently complete formation of the film. The polysaccharide resins of the present invention are film formers known in the art. However, the blending of at least one polysaccharide resin with at least one other film former, such as a polymer or wax, will result in a synergistic effect of improved film-forming properties, including transfer resistance and water repellency. The use of at least one polysaccharide resin alone (ie without admixture with another other different film former) which also imparts transfer resistance or film forming properties also constitutes an example of the composition of the present invention.

At least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former are present in a mixed amount to impart at least one desired property to the composition of the invention (i.e. the amount is sufficient to obtain the desired effect, such as transfer resistance, flexible film formation, Control of curling or growth effects of creams and increase of UV light absorption of sunscreens).

Effective amounts of polysaccharide resins and other film formers for use in the compositions of the present invention can be routinely determined by those skilled in the art, depending on the application and desired properties. According to actual application, those skilled in the art can routinely determine the amount of polysaccharide resin film former, other film formers and other ingredients required to obtain a stable cosmetic or pharmaceutical product. As used herein, a stable cosmetic or pharmaceutical product refers to a product that is sufficiently stable (stable enough to) enable effective commercialization of the cosmetic or pharmaceutical product.

In general, the composition of the present invention can provide at least one of the following properties in a wide range of applications: transfer resistance, adhesion, flexibility and abrasion resistance, forming or styling properties and component dispersion properties. These compositions of the present invention may be in the form of (but not limited to): make-up, including liquid foundation, concealer, blush, mascara, eyeliner, lipstick, eye shadow, and nail polish or varnish; hairspray, gel and Mousse, sunscreen lotion, moisturizer, lotion, oil or cream with active ingredients or fragrances.

The products of the invention can be used in particular for any cosmetic or pharmaceutical application involving the preparation of soft film preparations capable of firmly adhering to keratinous substances. Additionally, the compositions of the present invention may be used to immobilize or bind topical coatings, active or functional ingredients to substrates. Active or functional ingredients may include pigments, UV filters, moisturizers, fragrances, drugs, and other active or functional ingredients known in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical art.

In another embodiment of the present invention, compositions of the present invention comprising at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one other film-forming agent are effective for waterproofing. These compositions thus minimize wash-off of active or functional ingredients. These compositions also delay skin dehydration by forming a covering film and reducing transepidermal water loss. In another embodiment, these compositions are capable of forming a barrier between the skin and the environment, retaining active and/or functional ingredients. The barrier layer formed from the composition can facilitate the activity of functional ingredients to increase sun protection factor (SPF) and UV light protection, and/or block the effects of moisture and the environment.

In another embodiment, at least one polysaccharide resin of the present invention contains a plurality of hydroxyl groups and hydrophobic groups. Such polysaccharide resins may be in the form of colloidal suspensions of fine highly modified particles such as starch granules. Such fine particles can vary in size, including particles 10 microns in diameter or less. In another embodiment, the transfer resistant and flexible film forming composition of the present invention comprises:

(1) at least one polysaccharide resin containing a plurality of hydroxyl groups and hydrophobic groups in the form of highly modified starch granules, and

(2) At least one film former other than said at least one polysaccharide resin, wherein (1) and (2) are present in a combined amount effective to impart transfer resistance and/or flexible film forming properties to the composition.

In another embodiment, the polysaccharide resin of the present invention is selected from polysaccharide resins commercially available from KAMA International Corp., Duluth, GA. For example, the polysaccharide resin KM13 is a highly modified colloidal suspension of finely divided starch particles less than 10 microns in diameter in water. KM13 is a co-reactive resin capable of forming hydrogen bonds with other resins. KM13 contains many hydroxyl groups (wetting pigments in aqueous systems) and hydrophobic groups (acceptable in solvent systems without pigment flocculation or suspension).

The polysaccharide resin is water-soluble, so the polysaccharide resin can be dissolved in an aqueous system to prepare a polysaccharide film-forming agent. In another embodiment, the polysaccharide resin is added to other solvent based systems by dispersing the polysaccharide resin already dissolved in water in the solvent system. The composition of the present invention comprising at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former other than the polysaccharide resin can also be used in a water-in-oil or oil-in-water solvent. The polysaccharide resin film-forming agent and film-forming agents other than the polysaccharide resin may be contained in the aqueous phase or the oil phase or both. In one embodiment, at least one polysaccharide resin film former is in the water phase and at least one other (ie non-polysaccharide resin) film former is in the oil phase. In other embodiments of the invention, at least one other film former may be in the oil phase, the water phase, or have at least one other film former in each of the water and oil phases.

Those skilled in the art know how to formulate and prepare compositions having the desired properties taking into account the compatibility of materials. With at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one other film former selected for the envisioned application, one skilled in the art will be able to determine the solubility parameters and select a solvent or water based system. Polysaccharide film formers and non-polysaccharide film formers should be compatible with the other raw materials in the formulation.

The concentration of polysaccharide resin in the compositions of the present invention can vary widely according to the practical application. Those skilled in the art can determine the preferred concentration of the polysaccharide resin according to the actual application or desired properties. In a typical embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a polysaccharide resin such as KM13 present in an amount of about 1% to 50% by weight of the total composition. In another embodiment, the polysaccharide resin is present in a concentration of 5% to 40% by weight. For example, for a cosmetic liquid foundation, the polysaccharide resin is used in a concentration of 1% to 50% by weight, or 1% to 20% by weight. For eyeliner formulations, at least one polysaccharide resin film former may be present in an amount of 1% to 30% by weight, or 2% to 20% by weight. For mascara formulations, the at least one polysaccharide resin film former may be present in an amount of 0.5% to 50% by weight, or 1% to 20% by weight.

At least one other film former than the at least one polysaccharide resin for use in the present invention may be selected from (but not limited to): cellulose and modified cellulose such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; diblock, triblock Block or radial block copolymer film formers such as KRATON® film formers; vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate (PVP/VA) copolymers such as Luviskol VA grades (all ranges) from BASF® Corporation and PVP/VA from ISP VA series; fluorinated acrylic emulsion film formers include Foraperle® film formers, such as EIf Atochem's Foraperle® 303D, (although Foraperle® may not be preferred for some cosmetic formulations); GANEX® copolymers, such as butylated PVP, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, PVP/eicosene copolymer or tridecene; poly(vinylpyrrolidone/diethylaminoethyl methacrylate) or PVP/dimethylaminomethacrylate Ethyl ester copolymers such as Copolymer 845; resin ACO-5014 (imidized IB/MA copolymer); other PVP-based polymers and copolymers; silicone gums; cyclomethicone and polydimethylsiloxane Silicone crosspolymers; trimethyl siloxysilicates such as SR 1000, SS4230 or SS4267 available from GE Silicones; alkyl cycloalkyl acrylate copolymers; Mexomere® film formers and others Allyl stearate/vinyl acetate copolymer (allyl stearate/VA copolymer); polyol prepolymers such as PPG-12/SMDI copolymer and poly(oxy-1,2-ethylene (ethanediyl), α-hydrogen-ω-hydroxyl-polymer with 1,1'-methylene-bis-(4-isocyanatocyclohexane) (commercially available from Bamet); ^Avalure® AC polymer (acrylate copolymers) and ^Avalure® UR polymers (polyurethane dispersions) are commercially available from BF Goodrich; and are disclosed in International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 2, 7th Edition, 1997) Other film formers, especially those disclosed at pages 1636-1638. The disclosure of International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook, Vol. 2, pages 1636-1638 is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

Other film formers that can be used in the framework of the present invention include any chemical film formers known in the art such as PVP, acrylates and urethanes; synthetic polycondensate copolymers, synthetic radical polymers, synthetic ionic polymers; natural polymers such as wheat protein film formers; and mixtures of the above or other film formers that one skilled in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical arts practice can determine to be compatible.

Other (ie, non-polysaccharide resin) resinous film formers can improve smooth and uniform film formation, water resistance, transfer resistance, flexibility, or other cosmetic or pharmaceutical properties desired by those skilled in the art. Other film formers include hydroxyethylcellulose, gum arabic, polyvinylpyrrolidones, and hydrolyzed wheat protein. Polyvinylpyrrolidones may be selected from PVP, PVP/eicosene copolymers and PVP/hexadecene copolymers.

The concentration of the non-polysaccharide resin film former can be determined by those skilled in the art, and can vary greatly depending on the actual application. For example, for cosmetic emulsions, the at least one non-polysaccharide resin film former is used in an amount of 1% to 10%, also 1% to 5% by weight of the total composition. For liquid eyeliner formulations, the at least one non-polysaccharide resin film former is used in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, and may also be 1% to 5% by weight. For mascara formulations, the at least one non-polysaccharide resin is used in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, optionally 1% to 5% by weight.

Other compositions known in the art capable of leaving a film on keratin fibers may also be added to the compositions of the present invention, including emollients and other ingredients commonly used in the art. These other ingredients may include gels, oils, waxes, preservatives, thickeners, solvents, surfactants, emollients and other ingredients incorporated into the formulation to remain on the skin surface without strongly adhering to the substrate. Some of these properties include oily feel and increased coverage, as observed in some ester and organic sunscreens. In embodiments where these materials are added to the formulations of the present invention to enhance the coverage and softness of the product, it is preferred that the above materials are present in very low concentrations to ensure that the formulation retains its transfer-resistant properties and ability to form a flexible film. characteristic. The selection of polysaccharide resins, other film formers, and their concentrations can be adjusted to alter other cosmetic properties, such as shaping or styling properties and ingredient dispersion effects, as discussed below.

Emollients useful in the compositions of the present invention include glycerin, propylene glycol, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, and the emollients disclosed in International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook, Volume 2 (7th Edition, 1997). and other similar ingredients, especially the emollients disclosed on pages 1656-1661. This article incorporates by reference the International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook, Volume 2, pages 1656-1661. In a preferred embodiment, the emollient is present at a concentration of from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of the total composition.

The compositions of the invention also include formulation auxiliaries customary in the field concerned. Formulation aids used in the present invention may be, but are not limited to, fatty substances. Useful fatty materials include, but are not limited to, organic and organosilicone emulsifiers for water-in-oil systems. Examples of organic emulsifiers include any ethoxylated surfactant known in the art, such as Polysorbate-20, Laureth-7 and Laureth-4, Sepigel 305 (commercially available from SEPPIC), and International Cosmetic Dictionary and other similar ingredients disclosed in Handbook Volume 2 (7th Edition, 1997), especially the emulsifiers disclosed on pages 1679-1687. The contents of pages 1679-1687 of Volume 2 of the International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Examples of organosilicone emulsifiers include cetyl dimethicone copolyol-poly 4-glyceryl isostearate-hexyl laurate (ABIL WE 09), commercially available from Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation, Waxyl Dimethicone Copolyol (ABIL®EM 90), (ABIL®EM 97), Lauryl Methicone Copolyol (5200), Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethicone Copolyols (DC 5225C and DC 3225C) (available from GE Silicone), Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethicone Copolyols (GE SF 1528) or known to those skilled in the art Any other formulation aids. Other fatty substances useful as formulation aids include, but are not limited to, silicones (such as dimethicone behenate) in esterified or unesterified liquid form or esterified solid form. oxane), and non-silicone fatty substances (including oils such as vegetable or mineral oils), animal and/or synthetic waxes such as beeswax, paraffin wax, rice wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax and their derivatives and alkane gels or organobentonite type gels such as GelSS71, Gel EA2786, Quaternium-18 Bentonite, 38CE, Gel ISD or Gel ISD. In one embodiment, the formulation aid is present at a concentration of about 0.1% to about 25% by weight of the total composition.

Variations of these materials can be selected by one skilled in the art to produce a composition having desired characteristics such as consistency or texture. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one of the aforementioned waxes in order to ensure good mechanical strength, especially when the composition is in the form of a rod.

Plasticizers may also be added to the compositions of the present invention to improve the flexibility and forming characteristics of the resulting formulations. Plasticizers are substances that soften synthetic polymers. They are generally required to avoid brittleness and cracking of the film former. A person skilled in the art can routinely select the desired amount of plasticizer according to the desired properties and practical application. Plasticizers useful in the practice of the present invention include lecithin, polysorbate, dimethicone copolyols, glycols, citrates, glycerin, dimethicone, and International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook Other similar ingredients disclosed in Volume 2 (7th Edition, 1997) (in particular the plasticizers disclosed in International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook Volume 2 p. 1654) are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.

In pigmented products, the amount of polysaccharide resins and other film formers can be adjusted to give them the best adhesion to the skin or hair and the best water resistance. An important consideration is the ratio of pigment to film former. Pigments are understood to mean inorganic or organic, white or colored particles. Typical pigments that may be used in the practice of this invention include Carbon Black, Titanium Dioxide, D & C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D & C Red No. 21 Aluminum Lake, Iron Oxides, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue No.1 Aluminum Lake and other pigments or activated pigments known in the cosmetic field. The use of the compositions of the present invention in pigment-containing products is particularly preferred due to the inherent pigment-dispersing properties of polysaccharide resins.

Fillers and mothers-of-pearl may also be added to the formulations to improve the texture and matteness/gloss effect of the composition. Fillers are to be understood as lamellar or non-lamellar, inorganic or synthetic, colorless or white particles. Nacre can refer to pearlescent particles produced by certain molluscs in their shells or otherwise synthetically. Pearling agents useful in the practice of the present invention include mica, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, and any other pearling agents known in the cosmetic art.

Also can add any cosmetics (comprising make-up foundation, liquid eyeliner, lipstick, mascara, eye shadow, concealer, cleanser, nail polish, or other practical applications mentioned in the present invention) formulation field in the composition of the present invention Any conventional additives such as those selected from (but not limited to): thickeners (such as clays, or organoclays, silica, cellulose derivatives), hectorites, stabilizers, synthetic polymers (such as acrylic polymers or associative polymers containing polyurethane), fat-soluble polymers, gums and especially xanthan gum, spreading agents, dispersing agents, preservatives (especially water-soluble preservatives), defoamers, Humectants, chelates such as EDTA and its salts, UV-screening agents, fragrances, fillers, antioxidants, essential oils, cosmetic or pharmaceutical actives, humectants, vitamins or their derivatives, biomaterials and their derivatives .

Of course, one skilled in the art should carefully select optional additive compounds and/or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the compositions of the present invention are not or substantially not impaired by these additives.

Another object of the invention is mascara. Mascaras that are transfer resistant and form flexible films have been discussed. Mascaras using the compositions of the invention have increased stability and better adhesion to keratin fibers, better abrasion resistance, improved water resistance and improved cosmetic properties. In addition, the compositions of the present invention can also be used to shape and shape keratin fibers by forming a film which can be set into a desired structure or which can be shaped when applied and which can maintain its shape after application. For example, the compositions of the present invention may be used to shape, style and/or curl keratin fibers such as eyelashes. After application of these compositions, styled or curled lashes retain their type shape, in part because the film formed adheres to the lashes and maintains the desired shape of the lashes. This membrane is flexible and can also be waterproof.

PCT/US98/10617 discloses the use of a polysaccharide resin, KAMA KM13, in a mascara composition at a concentration of 4% relative to the total weight of the composition. The inventors of the present invention have also disclosed that a curling effect is observed when the polysaccharide resin is present in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total composition, preferably greater than or equal to 10%. This curling effect is amazing and cannot be obtained with conventional film formers available in the art. For example, the polysaccharide resin KAMA KM13 is mixed with a mascara composition containing a hydroxyethylcellulose film former. A curling effect is observed when as little as 10% KM 13 is present in the mascara composition. The same formulation without KM13 did not have this curling effect. Therefore, in one embodiment, the composition capable of producing curling effect of the present invention contains at least one polysaccharide resin in an amount of 5% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, in practice the present invention relates to a method for producing a curling effect on keratinous fibers (such as eyelashes), which method comprises, in a curling movement, applying a compound containing at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one other than said at least one A film former other than a polysaccharide resin is applied to the keratin fibers. If setting or styling other than curling is desired, the brush can be applied in different movements.

The compositions of the present invention can be applied repeatedly to enhance a desired shape or effect. However, most mascara compositions cannot be applied in a layer-on-layer manner. In other words, by applying layer by layer, conventional mascara cannot control the growth effect of mascara on eyelashes.

Thus, in another embodiment of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention may be used to control the elongating or lengthening effect on keratinous fibers such as eyelashes. At least one film former other than said at least one polysaccharide resin enhances the transfer resistance of the composition. Such compositions also contain volatile solvents and/or hard microsphere particles to aid in the repeated application of the mascara to the keratin fibers, both of which are discussed below.

Accordingly, one embodiment of the present invention is a mascara composition comprising at least one polysaccharide resin, at least one film former other than said polysaccharide resin, at least one volatile solvent and at least one microspherical particle. Styling ingredients are present in mixed amounts to effectively control the growth effect of the mascara on the keratin fibers. Apply this lengthening mascara in layer upon layer. A mascara whose eyelash growth effect is controlled by the amount of mascara applied or the number of times it is applied is also within the scope of the present invention.

Accordingly, in another embodiment, the present invention relates to a method comprising at least one polysaccharide resin, at least one film former other than said at least one polysaccharide resin, at least one volatile solvent and at least one microbe A method of controlling the lengthening effect of a mascara product on the eyelashes by coating the eyelashes with a composition of spherical particles, wherein the composition is applied until a desired length or volume effect is achieved.

The use of volatile solvents in lengthening mascara formulations can aid drying time and allow rapid re-use. Volatile solvents in the practice of this invention include, but are not limited to, alcohols such as ethanol, silicones, petroleum distillates and isoparaffins.

Microspherical particles are used in lengthening mascara formulations to enhance the smooth feel and distribution of the composition on the keratin fibers or to aid in repeated application of mascara when the composition is applied layer-on-layer. Microsphere compounds in the practice of this invention include polyurethanes such as BPD 500, nylon 12, silica, polymethyl methacrylate and other acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, and other microspheres.

The use of the pigment dispersing properties of polysaccharide resins is also within the scope of this invention. For example, the polysaccharide resins of the present invention can be used to improve the dispersion and uniformity of other ingredients in cosmetic or pharmaceutical products, thereby providing higher efficacy of active ingredients. Without wishing to be bound by theory, improved dispersibility may result in more uniform coverage of the active ingredient and thus a better effect of the active ingredient.

For example, the compositions of the present invention can improve the dispersion of sunscreens and UV absorbers in sunscreens, thereby increasing the UV absorbing properties or increasing the SPF per part of UV absorber in the formulation. In addition, due to the dispersing properties of the polysaccharide resin, the UV absorption of the composition can be more uniform. In one embodiment, improved dispersibility of ingredients will improve properties such as effects, brighter colors, higher gloss, more uniform product batches, less clumping and less energy for mixing.

Accordingly, the present invention also relates to a method of increasing the UV light absorption of a sunscreen composition, which method comprises adding at least one polysaccharide resin to the sunscreen composition.

Packaging and application devices for any product of the invention can be selected and prepared by those skilled in the art from their general knowledge and can be adjusted according to the nature of the composition to be packaged. In fact, the type of device chosen is inter alia related to the consistency of the composition, especially its viscosity, and also depends on the nature of the ingredients present in the composition, such as the presence of volatile compounds.

The present invention is further illustrated with the following examples, which are for illustration only, without any limitation to the scope of the present invention.

Example

Example 1: Sunscreen Compositions

The polysaccharide resin KAMA KM13 is added to sunscreen compositions containing other film formers such as PVP/eicosene copolymer and acrylates/C10-30 allyl acrylate cross-linked copolymer to improve UV absorbers ( TiO ₂ ) dispersion. The sunscreen compositions so formulated are oil-in-water emulsions.

sunscreen g

A1 Stearic Acid 1

                                                                          

                                       

                                                 

Phenoxyethanol 0.7

                                                               

                                                              

A2 Triethanolamine 0.3

B1 Glycerin 4

Propylene Glycol 4

Methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.15

B2 TiO ₂ 10

KAMA-KM13 1

C Xanthan Gum 0.1

D Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.2

                                                     

E Triethanolamine 0.2

Water1

F Cyclopentasiloxane 7

G water gsp100

step:

Mix together the ingredients in A1. A2 is added to A1 and the mixture thus obtained is heated to about 80°C. Mix B1 with water in a separate vessel and heat to about 80°C. Mix the two phases vigorously for a few minutes until well combined. Then mix B2 and add it to the previous mixture. The resulting mixture was cooled to room temperature with constant stirring, and the remaining ingredients were added. Add water to volume.

Example 2: curling mascara

Add KAMA KM13 to mascara compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. The composition also contains other film formers, hydrolyzed wheat protein and hydroxyethylcellulose. When using it to brush eyelashes, a curling effect can be observed. This curling effect can be increased by the process of brushing the eyelashes, that is, the curling movement of applying mascara.

Oil-in-Water Emulsion Mascara

Oil-in-water emulsion mascara %

A1 Natural Paraffin 23

A2 Black Iron Oxide 8

A3 Triethanolamine Stearate (C18/C16 50/50) 7.85

B1 Water qsp100

B2 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.2

B3 Gum Arabic 1.5

C Preservatives qs

D Defoamer 0.12

E KAMA KM13 10

F Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 0.2

step:

Mix A with A1, A2 and A3 and heat to 85-90°C. Mix them until smooth. Heat B1 to 85-90°C while stirring separately, and spray B2 and B3 until they are evenly mixed. Combine Phase A and Phase B, which will be maintained at 85°C with vigorous stirring until well mixed. Then add C to the mixed phase A+B, and cool to 30°C while stirring. Add ingredients D to F while mixing.

Example 3: Shaping and contouring mascara

KAMA KM13 was added to a clear mascara composition containing the film former hydroxyethylcellulose. A qualitative or volumizing effect is observed after application of the eyelashes. This setting and volume effect can be controlled by the brushing process.

Transparent Mascara %

A1 Water qsp100

A2 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.1

A3 CARBOPOL 1.32

A4 Triethanolamine 1.32

B KAMA KM13 33

C Preservatives qsp

step:

Heat A1 to 85°C with stirring. Slowly add A2 and then A3 in a vortex created by the mixer. Add A4 and mix well. The mixture was cooled to room temperature and B and C were added. Stir this mixture for 10 minutes until well combined.

Example 4: Curling mascara

Addition of KAMA KM13 to mascara formulations of wax fine dispersion. The composition also contains another film former, hydroxyethyl cellulose. A curling effect can be observed after the eyelashes are applied. This curling effect can be enhanced by the brushing process.

Paraffin fine dispersion mascara %

A1 E West Palm Wax 22

A2 Glyceryl Oxyethylene (30OE) Monostearate 5.5

A3 Water 45

B Sodium Hydroxide 0.05

C Black Iron Oxide 5

D Gum Arabic 3.3

E Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.55

F KAMA KM13 10

G Preservatives qs

H Water qsp100

step:

Carnauba wax, glyceryloxyethylene (30OE) monostearate and water were prepared as described in US Patent No. 5,858,338. The resulting wax fine dispersion was mixed with B and C at room temperature and mixed well. Spray D and E slowly into this stirring mixture until well combined. F, G and H are then added to this composition. Mix until smooth.

Example 5: Waterproof Mascara

A mascara formulation containing the polysaccharide resin KAMAKM13 and other film formers allyl stearate/VA copolymer was prepared. The following formulations demonstrate the effectiveness of this water-soluble polysaccharide film former in the preparation of waterproof and transfer-resistant mascara compositions.

Waterproof Mascara %

A1 Petroleum distillate 50.59

2 Pigment and/or Carbon Black 6.00

B1 Bentonite 5.54

2 Isoparaffins 10.50

C1 Rice Starch 1.00

D1 Propylene Carbonate 1.82

E1 Wax 15.12

2 Allyl Stearate/VA Copolymer 2.43

3 Polyvinyl laurate 1.00

4 Microspheres 1.00

F1 KAMA KM13 2.50

2 Water 2.49

3 Preservatives 0.01

step:

Mix A ingredients and homogenize them for 1 hour. Add ingredient B to the mixture of ingredient A and homogenize for 10 minutes before adding C1. The whole mixture was homogenized for 10 minutes, then D1 was added and the mixture was allowed to stand for another 15 minutes. The E component was heated to 90-95°C and added to the above mixture, and the mixture was maintained at 60-65°C and homogenized for 30 minutes. Finally, component F was added and the final formulation was homogenized for 3 minutes and cooled to 30-32°C while stirring.

Example 6: Adjustable Mascara

A mascara composition effective to condition the mascara applied to the lashes was formulated as follows. The mascara composition is applied layer by layer until the desired length or volume of lashes is obtained. Volume or length controlled mascara containing polysaccharide resin KAMA KM13 and other film formers PVP/hexadecene copolymer and PVP/eicosene copolymer.

Adjustable Mascara %

A1 Wax 15.1

2 Stearic acid 4.70

3 Preservatives 0.75

4 PVP/eicosene copolymer 1.00

B1 Water 35.70

2 Thickener aqueous solution 0.40

3 KAMA KM13 1.25

4 Lecithin 0.15

5 Pigment and/or Carbon Black 9.00

6 PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer 1.00

7 Ethylene Glycol 3.50

8 Triethanolamine 2.35

C1 Defoamer 0.10

D1 Volatile Silicone 3.00

2 Silicone Rubber 2.50

3 Filler 4.50

E1 Polyurethane 10.00

F Alcohol 5.00

step:

Mix ingredients A, heat to 85-90°C, and mix well. In another pulverizer, B1 was heated to 40-45°C, at which point B2 was slowly added to the vortex. The mixture of B1 and B2 was heated to 85°C, ingredients B3 to B8 were added, and the resulting mixture was heated to 85°C and milled for 30 minutes.

Add ingredient B to ingredient A and grind for another 10 minutes. C is then added to the mixture of A and B and the formulation is cooled to 40-45°C while mixing. In another pulverizer, mix ingredient D until well combined and add to the mixture of ingredients A, B, and C. Mix this formulation until homogeneous. Finally E1 was added, mixed well and cooled to 30°C, then F was added and the final formulation was mixed for 15 minutes.

Embodiment 7: liquid foundation

The polysaccharide resin KAMA KM13 was added to a cosmetic liquid foundation composition containing other film formers cyclomethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer.

Cosmetic liquid foundation %

A1 Water 25.00

2 Chelating agent 0.10

3 Emulsifier 0.40

B1 Water 15.00

2 Preservatives 0.30

3 KAMA KM13 2.00

4 Dosorbide 20 0.25

5 Pigment 12.50

C1 emulsifier 0.70

2 fillers 10.00

D1 Wetting agent 7.00

2 thickener 0.15

E1 Silicone oil phase 13.00

2 Emulsifier 1.10

3 Preservatives 0.10

4 Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer 5.00

5 Moisturizer 5.00

F Water qsp100

step

In a mixing vessel equipped with a propeller type stirrer, phase A was mixed and heated to 70°C. Combine Phase B in a separate vessel and heat to 70°C, mixing at constant speed until well combined. Add phase B to phase A. When mixing phases A and B with a propeller type mixer, add phase C followed by phase D. At 70°C, add the composition thus obtained to phase E and homogenize until homogeneous. Add F, homogenize the composition until uniform, then shake to cool.

Claims (28)

1. a cosmetic composition is characterized in that, described compositions comprises:

Polysaccharide resins KAMA KM13, it is a kind of colloidal suspension of starch granules, the diameter of described starch granules be 10 microns or littler and

At least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins,

Wherein said polysaccharide resins is 5-50% with respect to the amount of compositions gross weight, and

Described polysaccharide resins and at least a film former exist with the amount that can effectively give the anti-transfer characteristic of described compositions and

Condition is, described compositions does not comprise following compositions, and said composition comprises: at least a organic phospholipid that can form bilayer in aqueous solution; At least a amphoteric surfactant, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight; At least a non-ionic surface active agent, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight.

2. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, described at least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins is selected from the wheat protein of Radix Acaciae senegalis, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone class and hydrolysis.

3. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 2 is characterized in that, described polyvinylpyrrolidone class is selected from PVP, PVP/ eicosylene copolymer and PVP/ hexadecene copolymer.

4. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that described compositions also comprises at least a plasticizer.

5. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 4 is characterized in that, described plasticizer is selected from lecithin, polysorbate, dimethyl silscone polyol, ethylene glycol, citrate and glycerol.

6. an anti-transfer mascara product is characterized in that, described anti-transfer mascara product comprises:

Polysaccharide resins KAMA KM13, it is a kind of colloidal suspension of starch granules, the diameter of described starch granules be 10 microns or littler and

At least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins,

Wherein said polysaccharide resins accounts for the 5-50% of compositions gross weight, and

Described polysaccharide resins and at least a film former exist with the amount that can effectively give the anti-transfer characteristic of described mascara product and

Condition is, described compositions does not comprise following compositions, and said composition comprises: at least a organic phospholipid that can form bilayer in aqueous solution; At least a amphoteric surfactant, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight; At least a non-ionic surface active agent, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight.

7. anti-transfer mascara product as claimed in claim 6 is characterized in that described at least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins is selected from the wheat protein of Radix Acaciae senegalis, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone class and hydrolysis.

8. anti-transfer mascara product as claimed in claim 7 is characterized in that, described polyvinylpyrrolidone class is selected from PVP, PVP/ eicosylene copolymer and PVP/ hexadecene copolymer.

9. anti-transfer mascara product as claimed in claim 6 is characterized in that, described anti-transfer mascara product also comprises carbon black.

10. anti-transfer mascara product as claimed in claim 6 is characterized in that, described anti-transfer mascara product also comprises at least a plasticizer.

11. anti-transfer mascara product as claimed in claim 10 is characterized in that described plasticizer is selected from lecithin, polysorbate, dimethyl silscone polyol, ethylene glycol, citrate and glycerol.

12. method that forms anti-divert film, it is characterized in that, described method comprises that the compositions that will contain polysaccharide resins KAMA KM13 and at least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins is applied on the keratin substances, wherein, described polysaccharide resins accounts for the 5-50% of compositions gross weight, it is a kind of colloidal suspension of starch granules, and the diameter of described starch granules is 10 microns or littler;

Condition is, described compositions does not comprise following compositions, and said composition comprises: at least a organic phospholipid that can form bilayer in aqueous solution; At least a amphoteric surfactant, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight; At least a non-ionic surface active agent, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight.

13. the method for the anti-divert film of formation as claimed in claim 12 is characterized in that, described at least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins is selected from the wheat protein of Radix Acaciae senegalis, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone class and hydrolysis.

14. the method for the anti-divert film of formation as claimed in claim 13 is characterized in that, described polyvinylpyrrolidone class is selected from PVP, PVP/ eicosylene copolymer and PVP/ hexadecene copolymer.

15. method that forms the flexible film, it is characterized in that, described method comprises that the compositions that will contain polysaccharide resins KAMA KM13 and at least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins is applied on the keratin substances, wherein, described polysaccharide resins accounts for the 5-50% of compositions gross weight, it is a kind of colloidal suspension of starch granules, and the diameter of described starch granules is 10 microns or littler

Condition is, described compositions does not comprise following compositions, and said composition comprises: at least a organic phospholipid that can form bilayer in aqueous solution; At least a amphoteric surfactant, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight; At least a non-ionic surface active agent, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight.

16. formation flexible film's as claimed in claim 15 method is characterized in that described at least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins is selected from the wheat protein of Radix Acaciae senegalis, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone class and hydrolysis.

17. formation flexible film's as claimed in claim 16 method is characterized in that described polyvinylpyrrolidone class is selected from PVP, PVP/ eicosylene copolymer and PVP/ hexadecene copolymer.

18. method that forms anti-transfer flexible film, it is characterized in that, described method comprises that the compositions that will contain polysaccharide resins KAMA KM13 and at least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins is applied on the keratin substances, wherein, described polysaccharide resins accounts for the 5-50% of compositions gross weight, it is a kind of colloidal suspension of starch granules, and the diameter of described starch granules is 10 microns or littler

Condition is, described compositions does not comprise following compositions, and said composition comprises: at least a organic phospholipid that can form bilayer in aqueous solution; At least a amphoteric surfactant, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight; At least a non-ionic surface active agent, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight.

19. the anti-transfer of formation as claimed in claim 18 flexible film's method, it is characterized in that described at least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins is selected from the wheat protein of Radix Acaciae senegalis, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone class and hydrolysis.

20. the anti-transfer of formation as claimed in claim 19 flexible film's method is characterized in that described polyvinylpyrrolidone class is selected from PVP, PVP/ eicosylene copolymer and PVP/ hexadecene copolymer.

21. a method that produces curling effect on keratin fiber is characterized in that described method is included in described keratin fiber prying and uses compositions movably, described compositions includes

Polysaccharide resins KAMA KM13, it is a kind of colloidal suspension of starch granules, the diameter of described starch granules be 10 microns or littler and

At least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins,

Wherein said polysaccharide resins accounts for the 5-50% of compositions gross weight;

Condition is, described compositions does not comprise following compositions, and said composition comprises: at least a organic phospholipid that can form bilayer in aqueous solution; At least a amphoteric surfactant, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight; At least a non-ionic surface active agent, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight.

22. the method that produces curling effect on keratin fiber as claimed in claim 21 is characterized in that the amount that described polysaccharide resins is equivalent to the gross weight of compositions is 10-50%.

23. the method that on keratin fiber, produces curling effect as claimed in claim 21, it is characterized in that described at least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins is selected from the wheat protein of Radix Acaciae senegalis, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone class and hydrolysis.

24. the method that produces curling effect on keratin fiber as claimed in claim 23 is characterized in that described polyvinylpyrrolidone class is selected from PVP, PVP/ eicosylene copolymer and PVP/ hexadecene copolymer.

25. a mascara is characterized in that, described mascara comprises following composition:

Polysaccharide resins KAMA KM13,

At least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins,

At least a volatile solvent and

At least a microsphere particle, this microsphere particle are the microsphere chemical compound that is selected from polyurethanes, nylon 12, silicon oxide, polymethyl methacrylate and other acrylate or methacrylate and their ester;

Wherein, described polysaccharide resins accounts for the 5-50% of compositions gross weight;

Wherein said composition increases effect with effective control mascara on keratin fiber combined amount exist and

Condition is, described compositions does not comprise following compositions, and said composition comprises: at least a organic phospholipid that can form bilayer in aqueous solution; At least a amphoteric surfactant, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight; At least a non-ionic surface active agent, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight.

26. mascara as claimed in claim 25 is characterized in that, described mascara also contains plasticizer.

27. mascara as claimed in claim 25 is characterized in that, described mascara also contains carbon black.

28. control mascara product increases effect on eyelashes method for one kind, it is characterized in that described method comprises that with in described eyelashes last layer one deck brushing compositions, described compositions comprises

Polysaccharide resins KAMA KM13,

At least a film former except that described polysaccharide resins,

At least a volatile solvent and

At least a microsphere particle, this microsphere particle are the microsphere chemical compound that is selected from polyurethanes, nylon 12, silicon oxide, polymethyl methacrylate and other acrylate or methacrylate and their ester;

Wherein said polysaccharide resins accounts for the 5-50% of compositions gross weight;

Wherein brush described compositions up to the growth of realizing ideal or volume effect and

Condition is, described compositions does not comprise following compositions, and said composition comprises: at least a organic phospholipid that can form bilayer in aqueous solution; At least a amphoteric surfactant, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight; At least a non-ionic surface active agent, its amount is equal to or higher than the amount of described at least a phospholipid, by weight.