DE19756377A1 - Enhancing light protection factor of sun screen preparations containing UV filter compound - Google Patents
Enhancing light protection factor of sun screen preparations containing UV filter compoundInfo
- Publication number
- DE19756377A1 DE19756377A1 DE1997156377 DE19756377A DE19756377A1 DE 19756377 A1 DE19756377 A1 DE 19756377A1 DE 1997156377 DE1997156377 DE 1997156377 DE 19756377 A DE19756377 A DE 19756377A DE 19756377 A1 DE19756377 A1 DE 19756377A1
- Authority
- DE
- Germany
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic
- acid
- filter
- dermatological
- derivatives
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
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- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 title claims description 16
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- 239000004904 UV filter Substances 0.000 title abstract description 5
- 230000002708 enhancing effect Effects 0.000 title 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 41
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- ZPWFUIUNWDIYCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-2-yl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C ZPWFUIUNWDIYCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001436 propyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229960002662 propylthiouracil Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002940 repellent Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940108325 retinyl palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019172 retinyl palmitate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011769 retinyl palmitate Substances 0.000 description 1
- IKGXIBQEEMLURG-BKUODXTLSA-N rutin Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](C)O[C@@H]1OC[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](OC=2C(C3=C(O)C=C(O)C=C3OC=2C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)=O)O1 IKGXIBQEEMLURG-BKUODXTLSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960004555 rutoside Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960004889 salicylic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910052711 selenium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011669 selenium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000002639 sodium chloride Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031439 squalene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ARCJQKUWGAZPFX-UHFFFAOYSA-N stilbene oxide Chemical compound O1C(C=2C=CC=CC=2)C1C1=CC=CC=C1 ARCJQKUWGAZPFX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021286 stilbenes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001629 stilbenes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000000346 sugar Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000005555 sulfoximide group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000037072 sun protection Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002344 surface layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960002663 thioctic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019303 thiodipropionic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000003573 thiols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940094937 thioredoxin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 108060008226 thioredoxin Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940042585 tocopherol acetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000002640 tocopherol group Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019149 tocopherols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-isoferulic acid Natural products COC1=CC=C(C=CC(O)=O)C=C1O QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N trans-isorenieratene Natural products CC(=C/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/c1c(C)ccc(C)c1C)C=CC=C(/C)C=Cc2c(C)ccc(C)c2C ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940040064 ubiquinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- QNTNKSLOFHEFPK-UPTCCGCDSA-N ubiquinol-10 Chemical compound COC1=C(O)C(C)=C(C\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CCC=C(C)C)C(O)=C1OC QNTNKSLOFHEFPK-UPTCCGCDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940035936 ubiquinone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940116269 uric acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N β-Carotene Chemical compound CC=1CCCC(C)(C)C=1\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische und dermatologische Formulierungen, insbesondere kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen.The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations.
Die schädigende Wirkung des ultravioletten Teils der Sonnenstrahlung auf die Haut ist allgemein bekannt. In Abhängigkeit von ihrer jeweiligen Wellenlänge haben die Strahlen verschiedene Wirkungen auf das Organ Haut: Die sogenannte UV-C-Strahlung mit einer Wellenlänge, die kleiner als 290 nm ist, wird von der Ozonschicht in der Erdatmosphäre absorbiert und hat daher keine physiologische Bedeutung. Dagegen verursachen Strahlen im Bereich zwischen 290 nm und 320 nm, dem sogenannten UV-B-Bereich, ein Erythem, einen einfachen Sonnenbrand oder sogar mehr oder weniger starke Verbren nungen. Als ein Maximum der Erythemwirksamkeit des Sonnenlichtes wird der engere Bereich um 308 nm angegeben.The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. Depending on their respective wavelength, the rays have various effects on the organ skin: the so-called UV-C radiation with a Wavelength, which is less than 290 nm, is from the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere absorbed and therefore has no physiological significance. Cause it Radiation in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B range, a Erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less strong burns calculations. As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight becomes the tighter Range indicated around 308 nm.
Zum Schutz gegen UV-B-Strahlung sind zahlreiche Verbindungen bekannt, bei denen es sich zumeist um Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, der 4-Aminobenzoesäure, der Zimtsäure, der Salicylsäure, des Benzophenons sowie auch des 2-Phenylbenzimidazols handelt.For protection against UV-B radiation, numerous compounds are known in which It is mostly derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, the 4-aminobenzoic acid, the Cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole is.
Man hat lange Zeit fälschlicherweise angenommen, daß die langwellige UV-A-Strahlung mit einer Wellenlänge zwischen 320 nm und 400 nm nur eine vernachlässigbare biologi sche Wirkung aufweist und daß dementsprechend die UV-B-Strahlen für die meisten Lichtschäden an der menschlichen Haut verantwortlich seien. Inzwischen ist allerdings durch zahlreiche Studien belegt, daß UV-A-Strahlung im Hinblick auf die Auslösung photodynamischer, speziell phototoxischer Reaktionen und chronischer Veränderungen der Haut weitaus gefährlicher als UV-B-Strahlung ist. Auch kann der schädigende Ein fluß der UV-B-Strahlung durch UV-A-Strahlung noch verstärkt werden.It has long been wrongly assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm only a negligible biologi and that, accordingly, the UV-B rays for most Damage to the human skin are responsible. Meanwhile, though Through numerous studies it has been proven that UV-A radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes the skin is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation. Also, the injurious one Flow of UV-B radiation by UV-A radiation to be amplified.
So ist es u. a. erwiesen, daß selbst die UV-A-Strahlung unter ganz normalen Alltags bedingungen ausreicht, um innerhalb kurzer Zeit die Collagen- und Elastinfasern zu schädigen, die für die Struktur und Festigkeit der Haut von wesentlicher Bedeutung sind. Hierdurch kommt es zu chronischen lichtbedingten Hautveränderungen - die Haut "altert" vorzeitig. Zum klinischen Erscheinungsbild der durch Licht gealterten Haut gehö ren beispielsweise Falten und Fältchen sowie ein unregelmäßiges, zerfurchtes Relief. Ferner können die von lichtbedingter Hautalterung betroffenen Partien eine unregelmä ßige Pigmentierung aufweisen. Auch die Bildung von braunen Flecken, Keratosen und sogar Karzinomen bzw. malignen Melanomen ist möglich. Eine durch die alltägliche UV-Be lastung vorzeitig gealterte Haut zeichnet sich außerdem durch eine geringere Aktivität der Langerhanszellen und eine leichte, chronische Entzündung aus.So it is u. a. proved that even the UV-A radiation under normal everyday life conditions sufficient to within a short time the collagen and elastin fibers damage that is essential to the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-induced skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of light-aged skin gehö For example, wrinkles and wrinkles and an irregular, furrowed relief. In addition, the affected by light-induced aging can be irregular Have lateral pigmentation. Also the formation of brown spots, keratoses and even carcinomas or malignant melanoma is possible. A through the everyday UV-Be In addition, prematurely aged skin is characterized by a lower activity Langerhans cells and a mild, chronic inflammation.
Etwa 90% der auf die Erde gelangenden ultravioletten Strahlung besteht aus UV-A-Strah len. Während die UV-B-Strahlung in Abhängigkeit von zahlreichen Faktoren stark variiert (z. B. Jahres- und Tageszeit oder Breitengrad), bleibt die UV-A-Strahlung unab hängig von jahres- und tageszeitlichen oder geographischen Faktoren Tag für Tag rela tiv konstant. Gleichzeitig dringt der überwiegende Teil der UV-A-Strahlung in die lebende Epidermis ein, während etwa 70% der UV-B-Strahlen von der Hornschicht zurückgehalten werden.About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the Earth consists of UV-A radiation len. While the UV-B radiation is strong depending on numerous factors varies (eg annual and time of day or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains unab depending on year and daytime or geographical factors day by day rela tiv constant. At the same time, most of the UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis, while about 70% of the UV-B rays from the horny layer be withheld.
Vorbeugender Schutz gegen UV-A-Strahlen, beispielsweise durch Auftrag von Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen in Form einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung auf die Haut, ist daher von grundsätzlicher Wichtigkeit.Preventive protection against UVA rays, for example by applying sunscreen filters in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation on the skin, is therefore of fundamental importance.
Im allgemeinen ist das Lichtabsorptionsverhalten von Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen sehr gut bekannt und dokumentiert, zumal in den meisten Industrieländern Positivlisten für den Einsatz solcher Substanzen existieren, welche recht strenge Maßstäbe an die Dokumentation anlegen. Für die Dosierung der Substanzen in den fertigen Formulierun gen können die Extinktionswerte allenfalls eine Orientierungshilfe bieten, denn durch Wechselwirkungen mit Inhaltsstoffen der Haut oder der Hautoberfläche selbst können Unwägbarkeiten auftreten. Ferner ist in der Regel schwierig vorab abzuschätzen, wie gleichmäßig und in welcher Schichtdicke die Filtersubstanz in und auf der Hornschicht der Haut verteilt ist.In general, the light absorption behavior of sunscreen filter substances is very high well known and documented, especially in most industrialized countries positive lists for The use of such substances exist, which are quite strict standards for the Create documentation. For the dosage of the substances in the finished formulation At best, the extinction values can provide guidance, because of Interactions with ingredients of the skin or the skin surface itself can Uncertainties occur. Furthermore, it is usually difficult to estimate in advance how evenly and in which layer thickness the filter substance in and on the horny layer the skin is distributed.
Zur Prüfung der UV-A-Schutzleistung wird üblicherweise die IPD-Methode verwendet (IPD ∼ immediate pigment darkening). Hierbei wird - ähnlich der Bestimmung des Licht schutzfaktors - ein Wert ermittelt, der angibt, um wieviel länger die mit dem Licht schutzmittel geschützte Haut mit UV-A-Strahlung bestrahlt werden kann, bis die gleiche Pigmentierung auftritt wie bei der ungeschützten Haut.To test the UV-A protection performance, the IPD method is usually used (IPD = immediate pigment darkening). This is - similar to the determination of the light protection factor - a value that indicates how much longer the light is Protective skin can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same Pigmentation occurs as with unprotected skin.
Die Einsatzkonzentration bekannter Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen, die insbesondere auch im UV-A-Bereich eine hohe Filterwirkung zeigen, ist häufig gerade in Kombination mit anderen als Festkörper vorliegenden Substanzen begrenzt. Es bereitet daher gewisse formulierungstechnische Schwierigkeiten, höhere Lichtschutzfaktoren bzw. UV-A-Schutz leistung zu erzielen.The use concentration of known sunscreen filter substances, in particular also in the UV-A range show a high filtering effect, is often just in combination with limited to solids other than solids. It therefore prepares certain formulation difficulties, higher sun protection factors or UV-A protection to achieve performance.
Da Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen in der Regel kostspielig sind und da manche Lichtschutz filtersubstanzen zudem schwierig in höheren Konzentrationen in kosmetische oder der matologische Zubereitungen einzuarbeiten sind, war es Aufgabe der Erfindung, auf einfache und preiswerte Weise zu Zubereitungen zu gelangen, welche bei ungewöhn lich niedrigen Konzentrationen an herkömmlichen UV-A-Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen dennoch eine akzeptable oder sogar hohe UV-A-Schutzleistung erreichen.As sunscreen filters are usually expensive and some sunscreen In addition, filter substances are difficult in higher concentrations in cosmetic or the To incorporate matological preparations, it was an object of the invention, on simple and inexpensive way to get to preparations, which in unusual Lich low concentrations of conventional UV-A sunscreen filter substances nevertheless achieve acceptable or even high UV-A protection performance.
Es war indes überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorauszusehen, daß die Ver wendung von C18-38-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat zur Erhöhung der UV-A-Schutzleistung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen, enthaltend mindestens eine übliche UV-A-Filtersubstanz und/oder eine Breitbandfiltersubstanz, die auch gegen UV-Strah lung mit einer Wellenlänge, die größer als 335 nm ist, Schutz gewährt, den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen würde.It was, however, surprising and not foreseeable for the skilled person that the use of C 18-38- Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat for increasing the UV-A protective performance of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing at least one conventional UV-A filter substance and / or a broadband filter substance, which also provides protection against UV radiation having a wavelength greater than 335 nm, would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
C18-38-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat ist gekennzeichnet durch die chemische Struktur
C 18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate is characterized by the chemical structure
wobei n Werte bis zu 70 annehmen kann, im wesentlichen jedoch im Bereich zwischen 18 und 38 liegt. C18-38-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat ist beispielsweise erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung K80P von der Gesellschaft Koster Keunen Holland bv.where n can be up to 70, but is essentially in the range 18-38. C 18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate is available, for example, under the designation K80P from Koster Keunen Holland bv.
Erfindungsgemäß enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen vorteil haft 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-% C18-38-Alkylhydroxystearoylstea rat.According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously contain from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, of C 18-38- alkylhydroxystearoylsteacate.
Vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Dibenzoyl
methanderivate, insbesondere 5-Isopropyldibenzoylmethan (CAS-Nr. 63250-25-9), wel
ches sich durch die Struktur
Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 5-isopropyldibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 63250-25-9), which are characterized by the structure
auszeichnet und von Merck unter der Marke Eusolex® 8020 verkauft wird, und/oder das
4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), welches sich durch die
Struktur
sold by Merck under the trade mark Eusolex® 8020 and / or the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is characterized by the structure
auszeichnet und von Givaudan unter der Marke Parsol® 1789 verkauft wird.and sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol® 1789.
Weitere vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen sind die Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimi
dazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure:
Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid:
und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanol
ammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-
tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz:
and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt:
sowie das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bomylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze
(besonders die entsprechenden 10-Sulfato-Verbindungen, insbesondere das ent
sprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Ben
zol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl-10-Sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird und sich
durch die folgende Struktur auszeichnet:
and the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:
Vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner sogenannte Breitbandfilter, d. h. Filtersubstanzen, die sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strah lung absorbieren.Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the context of the present invention are further so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances containing both UV-A and UV-B rays absorb.
Vorteilhafte Breitbandfilter sind beispielsweise Bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate mit der fol
genden Struktur:
Advantageous broadband filters are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives having the following structure:
wobei R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der ver
zweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen bzw. ein ein
zelnes Wasserstoffatom darstellen. Insbesondere bevorzugt ist das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl
hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin, welches durch folgende
Struktur gekennzeichnet ist:
wherein R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from the group of ver branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred is 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, which is characterized by the following structure is:
Kosmetische und dermatologische Formulierungen im Sinne der Erfindung enthalten einen oder mehrere übliche UV-A-Filter als Einzelsubstanzen oder in beliebigen Gemi schen untereinander, in der Lipidphase und/oder in der wäßrigen Phase. Cosmetic and dermatological formulations according to the invention included one or more conventional UV-A filters as individual substances or in any Gemi between them, in the lipid phase and / or in the aqueous phase.
Besonders bevorzugt ist die Verwendung von C18-38-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat zur Erhöhung der UV-A-Schutzleistung von Dibenzoylmethanderivaten, insbesondere von 5-Iso propyldibenzoylmethan und/oder 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan. Erstaun licherweise steigert die Verwendung von C18-38-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat die UV-A-Schutz leistung von Dibenzoylmethanderivaten erheblich.Particularly preferred is the use of C 18-38 -alkylhydroxystearoylstearate to increase the UV-A protection performance of dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular of 5-iso-propyldibenzoylmethane and / or 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. Surprisingly, the use of C 18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate greatly enhances the UV-A protection performance of dibenzoylmethane derivatives.
Die Gesamtmenge an UV-A-Filtersubstanzen in den fertigen kosmetischen oder derma tologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 bis 30 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,5 bis 5,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The total amount of UV-A filter substances in the finished cosmetic or derma tological preparations is advantageously from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 10.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-% selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Erfindungsgemäße kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen enthalten ferner vorteilhaft, wenngleich nicht zwingend, anorganische Pigmente auf Basis von Metalloxi den und/oder anderen in Wasser schwerlöslichen oder unlöslichen Metallverbindungen, insbesondere der Oxide des Titans (TiO2), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z. B. Fe2O3), Zirkoniums (ZrO2), Siliciums (SiO2), Mangans (z. B. MnO), Aluminiums (Al2O3), Cers (z. B. Ce2O3), Mischoxiden der entsprechenden Metalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden. Besonders bevorzugt handelt es sich um Pigmente auf der Basis von TiO2.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention also advantageously contain, although not necessarily, inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cers (eg Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO 2 .
Derlei Pigmente sind im Sinne der Erfindung als UV-Filtersubstanzen anzusehen.Such pigments are to be regarded as UV filter substances in the context of the invention.
Die anorganischen Pigmente liegen erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft in hydrophober Form vor, d. h., daß sie oberflächlich wasserabweisend behandelt sind. Diese Oberflächenbe handlung kann darin bestehen, daß die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophoben Schicht versehen werden.The inorganic pigments according to the invention are advantageously in hydrophobic form before, d. h. that they are superficially treated water repellent. These surfaces act can consist in that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer.
Eines solcher Verfahren besteht beispielsweise darin, daß die hydrophobe Oberflächen
schicht nach einer Reaktion gemäß
One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction according to
n TiO2 + m (RO)3Si-R' → n TiO2 (oberfl.)
n TiO 2 + m (RO) 3 Si-R '→ n TiO 2 (surface)
erzeugt wird. n und m sind dabei nach Belieben einzusetzende stöchiometrische Para meter, R und R' die gewünschten organischen Reste. Beispielsweise in Analogie zu DE-OS 33 14 742 dargestellte hydrophobisierte Pigmente sind von Vorteil. is produced. n and m are random stoichiometric parameters meter, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.
Vorteilhafte TiO2-Pigmente sind beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen T 805 von der Firma Degussa erhältlich.Advantageous TiO 2 pigments are available, for example, under the trade names T 805 from Degussa.
Die Gesamtmenge an anorganischen Pigmenten, insbesondere hydrophoben anorgani schen Mikropigmenten in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitun gen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1-30 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1-10,0, insbe sondere 0,5-6,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The total amount of inorganic pigments, especially hydrophobic anorgani micropigments into the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageous from the range of 0.1-30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-10.0, in particular especially 0.5-6.0 wt .-% selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Formulierungen kön nen wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und dem kosmetischen und/oder dermatologi schen Lichtschutz, ferner zur Behandlung, der Pflege und der Reinigung der Haut und/oder der Haare und als Schminkprodukt in der dekorativen Kosmetik dienen. Ent sprechend können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen, je nach ihrem Aufbau, bei spielsweise verwendet werden als Hautschutzcrème, Reinigungsmilch, Sonnenschutz lotion, Nährcrème, Tages- oder Nachtcrème usw. Es ist gegebenenfalls möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen als Grundlage für pharmazeutische Formulierungen zu verwenden. Bevorzugt sind insbesondere solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Hautpflege- bzw. Schminkpro duktes vorliegen.The cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention may be composed as usual and the cosmetic and / or dermatologi light protection, and also for the treatment, care and cleansing of the skin and / or the hair and serve as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. Ent Accordingly, the preparations according to the invention, depending on their structure, at For example, be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day cream or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous, preparations of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical To use formulations. Preference is given in particular to such cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a skin care or make-up prod present.
Zur Anwendung werden die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.For use, the cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention Preparations in the usual way for cosmetics on the skin and / or hair in applied sufficient amount.
Besonders bevorzugt sind solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Sonnenschutzmittels vorliegen. Vorteilhaft können diese zusätzlich mindestens einen weiteren UV-A-Filter und/oder mindestens einen UV-B-Filter und/oder mindestens ein anorganisches Pigment, bevorzugt ein anorganisches Mikropigment, enthalten.Particularly preferred are such cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which are in the form of a sunscreen. Advantageously, these can additionally at least one further UV-A filter and / or at least one UV-B filter and / or at least one inorganic pigment, preferably an inorganic micropigment, contain.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen ver wendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Ver hindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulie rung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic excipients, as ver usually in such preparations ver be used, for. As preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for Ver foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation Such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic Solvent or silicone derivatives.
Die jeweils einzusetzenden Mengen an kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Hilfs- und Trägerstoffen und Parfüm können in Abhängigkeit von der Art des jeweiligen Produktes vom Fachmann durch einfaches Ausprobieren leicht ermittelt werden.The quantities of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary and Carrier and perfume may vary depending on the type of product be easily determined by the expert by simple trial and error.
Ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an Antioxidantien ist im allgemeinen bevorzugt. Erfindungsge mäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred. Erfindungsge As favorable antioxidants, they can all be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological purposes Applications of suitable or common antioxidants can be used.
Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäu ren (z. B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z. B. Uro caninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z. B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z. B. α-Carotin, β-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Deri vate (z. B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z. B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Chole steryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipra pionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleoti de, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z. B. pmol bis µmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z. B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α-Hydroxysäuren (z. B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z. B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z. B. Ascorbyl palmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z. B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A-palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Fur furylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajak harzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO4) Selen und dessen Derivate (z. B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z. B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urotroic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesterol and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and Salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthione insulfone, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg. Pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg B. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg., Vitamin E acetate), Vitamin A and derivatives (Vitamin A palmitate) and Koniferylbenzoat of Benzoeharzes, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacobaric acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO 4 ) Selenium and its derivatives (z. B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.
Die Menge der vorgenannten Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05-20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1-10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zuberei tung.The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 Wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Zuberei tung.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001-10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.
Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001-10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or which are antioxidants is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range of 0.001-10% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation choose.
Die Lipidphase kann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus folgender Substanzgruppe:
The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:
- - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse- mineral oils, mineral waxes
- - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;- Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, also natural oils such as z. Castor oil;
- - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propy lenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;- Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably Esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propy glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower alkanoic acids C number or with fatty acids;
- - Alkylbenzoate;- alkyl benzoates;
- - Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.- Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.
Die Ölphase der Emulsionen, Oleogele bzw. Hydrodispersionen oder Lipodispersionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancar bonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesät tigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Ketten länge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butyl stearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononyliso nonanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecyl palmitat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsyn thetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z. B. Jojobaöl.The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions For the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkancar bonsäuren a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsatd saturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be chosen advantageously from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl iso nonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, and synthetic, semysin thetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Silkonöle, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkoho le, sowie der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlän ge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 bis 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsyn thetischen und natürlichen Öle, z. B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöl und dergleichen mehr.Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols le, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length ge from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can For example, be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-syn thetic and natural oils, eg. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, Rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen. Es kann auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft sein, Wachse, beispielsweise Cetylpalmitat, als alleinige Lipidkomponente der Ölphase einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Use of the present invention. It may also be advantageous if necessary waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.
Vorteilhaft wird die Ölphase gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldode canol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, C12-15-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether.Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus C12-15-Alkylbenzoat und 2-Ethylhexylisostea rat, Mischungen aus C12-15-Alkylbenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus C12-15-Alkylbenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat. Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea rat, mixtures of C 12-15 alkyl benzoate and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat.
Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölpha senkomponenten zu verwenden.Advantageously, the oil phase may further contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred that in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils an additional content of other oil phase vertical components to use.
Vorteilhaft wird Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendendes Silikonöl eingesetzt. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sin ne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan).Advantageously, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the invention used silicone oil. But other silicone oils are beneficial in Sin ne of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisono nanoat, aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecylisono nanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.
Die wäßrige Phase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthält gegebenenfalls vor
teilhaft
The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may contain some geous
- - Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmo noethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-Pro pandiol, Glycerin sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, wel ches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdi oxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z. B. Hyaluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyacrylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der soge nannten Carbopole, beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination.- Alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol mo noethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl- or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous Products, also low C-number alcohols, e.g. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-Pro pandiol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, wel Ches or which can be advantageously selected from the group silicon di oxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. Hyaluronic acid, Xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the Group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of soge named carbopols, for example carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
Erfindungsgemäß wird die UV-A-Schutzleistung durch die Verwendung von C18-38-Alkyl hydroxystearoylstearat in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen, enthal tend übliche UV-A-Filter und/oder UV-B-Filter, sei es als Einzelsubstanzen oder in beliebigen Gemischen untereinander, in der Lipidphase und/oder in der wäßrigen Phase erheblich gesteigert.According to the invention, the UV-A protection performance by the use of C 18-38- alkyl hydroxystearoylstearat in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, tend tend usual UV-A filters and / or UV-B filters, either as individual substances or in any mixtures among themselves, increased significantly in the lipid phase and / or in the aqueous phase.
Vorteilhaft können die erfindungsgemäßen Lichtschutzformulierungen Substanzen ent halten, die UV-Strahlung im UV-B-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Fil tersubstanzen z. B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbe sondere 1 bis 10 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die die Haut vor dem gesam ten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnenschutz mittel dienen.Advantageously, the sunscreen formulations according to the invention can ent substances absorb ultraviolet radiation in the UV-B range, the total amount of fil tersubstanzen z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular especially 1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the skin from the overall protect the area of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as sunscreen to serve medium.
Die UV-B-Filter können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Vorteilhafte öllösliche UV-B-
Filtersubstanzen sind z. B.:
The UV-B filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are z. B .:
- - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Ben zylidencampher;3-Benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-Ben zylidencampher;
- - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2- ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
- - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
- - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhe xyl)ester;Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhe xyl ester);
- - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxy zimtsäureisopentylester;Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxy zimtsäureisopentylester;
- - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hy droxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;- Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-Hy hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UV-B-Filtersubstanzen sind z. B.:
Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are z. B .:
- - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Tri ethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or tri ethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself;
- - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenme thyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.- Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenme thyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their Salts.
Die Liste der genannten UV-B-Filter, die zusätzlich im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein. The list of mentioned UV-B filters, which are additional for the purposes of the present invention can be used, of course, should not be limiting.
Es kann auch von erheblichem Vorteil sein, polymergebundene oder polymere UV-Fil tersubstanzen in Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, ins besondere solche, wie sie in der WO-A-92/20690 beschrieben werden.It may also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV-Fil to use substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular ones as described in WO-A-92/20690.
Die Gesamtmenge an wasserlöslichen UV-Filtersubstanzen in den fertigen kosmeti schen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen, beispielsweise an 2-Phenylbenzimidazol- 5-sulfonsäure bzw. deren Salzen und/oder 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfon säure bzw. deren Salzen und/oder 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure bzw. deren Salzen und/oder 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure bzw. deren Salzen und/oder Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-10-Sulfonsäure bzw. deren Salzen, wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1-10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5-6,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, falls die Gegenwart dieser Substanzen erwünscht ist.The total amount of water-soluble UV filter substances in the finished kosmeti or dermatological preparations, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid or its salts and / or 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfone acid or salts thereof and / or 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid or their salts and / or 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid or their salts and / or benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) -10-sulfonic acid or their salts, is advantageously from the range of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-6.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, if the Presence of these substances is desired.
Die Gesamtmenge an öllöslichen UV-Filtersubstanzen in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen, beispielsweise an 4,4',4''-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyl triimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester) und/oder 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethan und/oder 4-Methylbenzylidencampher, wird vorteilhaft aus dem Be reich von 0,1-10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5-6,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Ge samtgewicht der Zubereitungen, falls die Gegenwart dieser Substanzen erwünscht ist.The total amount of oil-soluble UV filter substances in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example, 4,4 ', 4' '- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyl triimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) and / or 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane and / or 4-Methylbenzylidencampher, is advantageous from the Be rich of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-6.0 wt .-% selected, based on the Ge total weight of the preparations, if the presence of these substances is desired.
Die Gesamtmenge an 2-Ethylhexyl-p-methoxy-cinnamat in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird, falls die Gegenwart dieser Substanz erwünscht ist, vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1-15,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5-7,5 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The total amount of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxy cinnamate in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations, if the presence of this substance is desired, advantageously from the range of 0.1-15.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-7.5 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Noch eine weitere erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende zusätzliche Licht
schutzfiltersubstanz ist das Ethylhexyl-2-cyanc-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen), wel
ches von BASF unter der Bezeichnung Uvinul® N 539 erhältlich ist und sich durch fol
gende Struktur auszeichnet:
Yet another inventively advantageous to use additional light-protective filter substance is the Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Octocrylen), wel ches of BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 is available and is characterized by fol lowing structure:
Die Gesamtmenge an Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat in den fertigen kosmeti schen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird, falls die Gegenwart dieser Substanz erwünscht ist, vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1-15,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5-10,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The total amount of ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate in the finished kosmeti or dermatological preparations, if the presence of this substance is desired, advantageously from the range of 0.1-15.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-10.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Ferner kann gegebenenfalls von Vorteil sein, erfindungsgemäß weitere UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Filtern in kosmetische oder dermatologisch Zubereitungen einzuarbeiten, bei spielsweise bestimmte Salicylsäurederivate wie 4-Isopropylbenzylsalicylat, 2-Ethylhexyl salicylat (=Octylsalicylat), Homomenthylsalicylat.Furthermore, it may be advantageous, according to the invention further UV-A and / or UV-B filters in cosmetic or dermatological preparations to incorporate For example, certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-Isopropylbenzylsalicylat, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octylsalicylate), homomenthylsalicylate.
Die Gesamtmenge an einem oder mehreren Salicylsäurederivaten in den fertigen kos metischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1-15,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5-8,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtge wicht der Zubereitungen. Wenn Ethylhexylsalicylat gewählt wird, ist es von Vorteil, des sen Gesamtmenge aus dem Bereich von 0,1-5,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5-2,5 Gew.-% zu wählen. Wenn Homomenthylsalicylat gewählt wird, ist es von Vorteil, dessen Ge samtmenge aus dem Bereich von 0,1-10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5-5,0 Gew.-% zu wählen.The total amount of one or more salicylic acid derivatives in the finished kos metic or dermatological preparations is advantageously from the field of 0.1-15.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-8.0% by weight, based on the total amount weight of the preparations. When ethylhexyl salicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to use the total amount from the range of 0.1-5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-2.5 wt .-% to choose. When homomenthylsalicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to have its Ge total amount from the range of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-5.0 wt .-% to choose.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht an ders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without it limit. All quantities, percentages and percentages are, if not indicated on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight the preparations.
1 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan
2 Copolymer aus C10-30Alkylacrylaten und einem oder mehreren Monomeren der Acryl
säure, der Methacrylsäure oder deren Ester, die kreuzvernetzt sind mit einem Allyl
ether der Saccharose oder einem Allylether des Pentaerythrit (CTFA-Bez.: Acryla
tes/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)
3 4,4',4''-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester)
4 Triglycerindiisostearat
5 Polyglycerinpolyhydroxystearat
6 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher
7 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin 1 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane
2 copolymer of C 10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are cross-linked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol (CTFA ref .: Acryla tes / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)
3 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl)
4 triglycerol diisostearate
5 polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate
6 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor
7 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine
Claims (6)
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE1997156377 DE19756377A1 (en) | 1997-12-18 | 1997-12-18 | Enhancing light protection factor of sun screen preparations containing UV filter compound |
| EP98121552A EP0922447A3 (en) | 1997-11-19 | 1998-11-17 | Utilisation of C18-38 alkylhydroxystearoylsterates for increasing the light protection factor and/or the UV-A protection of cosmetic or dermatologic light protection agents |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE1997156377 DE19756377A1 (en) | 1997-12-18 | 1997-12-18 | Enhancing light protection factor of sun screen preparations containing UV filter compound |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| DE19756377A1 true DE19756377A1 (en) | 1999-06-24 |
Family
ID=7852425
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE1997156377 Withdrawn DE19756377A1 (en) | 1997-11-19 | 1997-12-18 | Enhancing light protection factor of sun screen preparations containing UV filter compound |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| DE (1) | DE19756377A1 (en) |
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| EP1782819A1 (en) | 2005-11-03 | 2007-05-09 | Cognis IP Management GmbH | Oligopeptides and their use |
| EP2218455A1 (en) | 2009-02-07 | 2010-08-18 | Cognis IP Management GmbH | Dolichos biflorus extract for use in therapeutic skin treatment |
| EP2216074A1 (en) | 2009-02-07 | 2010-08-11 | Cognis IP Management GmbH | Dolichos biflorus extract for use in cosmetic skin treatment |
| WO2011134568A1 (en) | 2010-04-29 | 2011-11-03 | Cognis Ip Management Gmbh | Cosmetic composition containing oligopeptides |
| EP2382963A1 (en) | 2010-04-29 | 2011-11-02 | Cognis IP Management GmbH | Cosmetic composition containing oligopeptides |
| US8815814B2 (en) | 2010-04-29 | 2014-08-26 | Cognis Ip Management Gmbh | Cosmetic composition containing oligopeptides |
| WO2012062554A3 (en) * | 2010-11-11 | 2012-08-23 | Unilever Plc | Leave-on non-solid skin conditioning compositions containing 12-[(12-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)oxy] octadecanoic acid |
| EA022468B1 (en) * | 2010-11-11 | 2016-01-29 | Унилевер Н.В. | Leave-on non-solid skin conditioning compositions containing 12-[(12-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)oxy]octadecanoic acid |
| EP3031443A1 (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2016-06-15 | Basf Se | Composition comprising carbohydrate partial ester |
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