DE10259402A1 - Aqueous surfactant composition for use in cosmetics has an alkyl- and/or alkenyl-oligoglucoside carboxylic acid salt replacing the normally-used amphoteric surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

Aqueous surfactant compositions comprise (a) alkyl- and/or alkenyl-oligoglucoside carboxylic acid salts; (b) anionic surfactants; and optionally also (c) nonionic surfactants.

Description

The invention is based on the Field of surfactant preparations and relates to selected mixtures with improved application properties, which are characterized by feature a content of alk (en) yl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts.

On modern skin and hair care products there are considerable demands today. Apart from a convincing Cleaning performance and special skin and mucous membrane compatibility comes the nourishing aspect of such preparations is becoming increasingly important to. In particular aspects such as a special soft grip and Shine that is given to the hair after washing, or also a pleasant feeling on the skin are desired by the consumer and also with a higher one Sales price honored.

For such uses are preparations from the prior art based on anionic surfactants, especially those of the alcohol ether sulfate type known. For a synergistic increase in cleaning performance, but also to improve overall performance and skin tolerance, amphoteric surfactants (especially cocamidopropyl betaine) are used in these systems, optionally together with nonionic surfactants, e.g. Alk (en) yl oligoglycosides added. The disadvantage, however, is that the properties achieved with it for many Applications are still unsatisfactory.

The complex task of the present The invention has thus consisted of new surfactant preparations Based on anionic and possibly nonionic surfactants, preferably based on alcohol ether sulfates and optionally To provide alk (en) yloligoglycosides, which are simultaneously characterized by a higher one Viscosity, a stronger one foaming power as well as improved sensory properties, especially grip, gloss and skin feeling distinguished.

• (a) Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucosidcarbonsäure-Salze,
• (b) anionische Tenside und gegebenenfalls
• (c) nichtionische Tenside.

The invention relates to novel aqueous surfactant preparations containing

• (a) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucoside carboxylic acid salts,
• (b) anionic surfactants and optionally
• (c) nonionic surfactants.

Surprisingly it was found that the exchange of amphoteric surfactants in mixtures with anionic and optionally also nonionic Surfactants against alk (en) yl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts causes that the watery Preparations a higher viscosity and show greater foaming power. Furthermore, the preparations are characterized in that they in the test on skin and hair, for example with regard to perform much better on grip, gloss and sensor technology.

Alkyl and / or alkenygoglycoside carboxylic acid salts

The surfactant mixtures according to the invention contain as component (a) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts, which preferably follow the formula (I), R ¹ O [G] _p O [(CH ₂ ) _m COO ^- X ⁺ ] _n (I) in which R ^{1 represents} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical with 4 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 and in particular 12 to 14 and 16 to 18 carbon atoms, G for a sugar radical with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, p for numbers from 1 to 10, m stands for numbers from 1 to 5, n stands for numbers from 1 to 5 and preferably 1 to 3 and X stands for alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkanolammonium, alkylammonium or glucammonium. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry, for example by reacting alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with halocarboxylic acids in an alkaline medium in the presence of solvents. The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts are thus salts of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucoside carboxylic acids. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While q in a given compound must always be an integer, and especially here can assume the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, usually a broken one represents a number. Salts of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acids with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.

The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ is derived in particular from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 and in particular 12 to 14 and 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucoside ethercarbonsäue salts are preferably based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut oil fatty alcohol and C _16/18 fatty alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3

The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts are furthermore preferably derived from carboxylic acids, their salts or esters, in which m is from 1 to 5, preferably 2 to 4 and in particular 1 and 2, n is from 1 to 5 and preferably 1 to 3 and X is, for example, potassium, ammonium, triethanolammonium and preferably sodium. Suitable carboxylic acids, their salts or esters are compounds known to those skilled in the art and preferably acetic acid, their salts, in particular sodium or potassium salts, or their esters, preferably having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts can be reacted by reacting an aqueous solution of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides (for example 20 to 70% by weight solutions - based on the active substance content) in a nitrogen atmosphere and in the presence of Alkali, for example alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal carbonates, at 50 to 100 ° C. with ω-halocarboxylic acid, the salt or ester thereof, preferably potassium or sodium chloroacetate (MCA). The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside is preferably set with the ω-halocarboxylic acid, its salt or ester, preferably potassium or sodium monochloroacetate (MCA), in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 5 and preferably 1: 1 to 1: 3 around. Furthermore, a molar ratio of alkali: ω-halocarboxylic acid, its salt or ester is preferably chosen from 1: 0.5 to 1: 1.5 and preferably 1: 1.1. The reaction of C _12/14 alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides is preferably carried out without the addition of organic solvents. C _16/18 alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts are preferably prepared in the presence of C _16/18 fatty alcohols and in particular 1,2 propylene glycol.

anionic surfactants

Typical examples of anionic surfactants which form component (b) are soaps, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerin ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerin ether sulfates, fatty ether mono ether sulfates, hydroxymethane sulfate ethers, fatty acid mono sulfate ethersulfates, hydroxymether sulfate ethers, fatty acid mono ether sulfate, hydroxymether sulfate ethers ) sulfates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acylglutarate acrylates, products based on acyl glutamate, acyl acid tartarateates, acyl acid tartarate products, acyl acid tartarate products, acyl acid tartarate products, acyl acid tartarate products such as, ) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Mild anionic surfactants such as monoglyceride sulfates, acylglutamates or sulfosuccinates and mixtures thereof are preferably used. However, the use of alcohol ether sulfates, especially fatty alcohol or oxo alcohol ether sulfates, which preferably follow the formula (II), is particularly preferred. R ² O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q SO ₃ X (II) in which R ^{2 is} an aliphatic linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, q is a number from 1 to 10 and X is alkali, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. Typical examples are the sulfation of adducts of 1 to 10 and preferably 2 to 5 moles of ethylene oxide onto caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, Isotride-cylalkohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl , Linolyl alcohol, Linolenyl alcohol, Elaeostearyl alcohol, Arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Erucyl alcohol and Brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures in the form of the sodium or ammonium salts. The sodium and ammonium salts of the sulfates of the adducts of 2 to 5 moles of ethylene oxide with technical coconut oil alcohols with 12 to 14 are particularly preferred or 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

nonionic surfactants

Typical examples of nonionic surfactants, which represent the optional component (c), are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, alk (en) yl oligoyl amide hydrolysis protein carbohydrates, vegetable oils Wheat-based products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides, which in particular follow the formula (III), are preferably R ³ O- [G] _p (III) in which R ^{3 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant procedures in preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (III) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given compound must always be an integer and above all can assume the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and is in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.

The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ³ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of C ₁₂ - may be contaminated alcohol, and also alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical-C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ³ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C _12/14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.

Aqueous surfactant preparations

• (a) 1 bis 15, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10 Gew.-% Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykosidcarbonsäure-Salze,
• (b) 10 bis 20, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18 Gew.-% anionische Tenside und
• (c) 0 bis 15, vorzugsweise 1 bis 10 Gew.-% nichtionische Tenside

mit der Maßgabe, dass sich die Mengenangaben mit Wasser und anderen üblichen Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffen zu 100 Gew. % addieren. Typischerweise liegt der Feststoffgehalt der Zubereitungen bei 10 bis 50, insbesondere 20 bis 35 und insbesondere 25 bis 35 Gew. %.The preparations according to the invention usually contain components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 1: 5 to 5: 1 and in particular 1: 3 to 3: 1 and components (a) and (c) in a weight ratio of 1: 8 to 8: 1 and in particular 1: 5 to 5: 1. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain

• (a) 1 to 15, preferably 2 to 10% by weight of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts,
• (b) 10 to 20, preferably 12 to 18 wt .-% anionic surfactants and
• (c) 0 to 15, preferably 1 to 10% by weight of nonionic surfactants

with the proviso that the quantities with water and other usual auxiliary substances and additives add up to 100% by weight. The solids content of the preparations is typically 10 to 50, in particular 20 to 35 and in particular 25 to 35% by weight.

commercial applicability

• (a) Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucosidcarbonsäure-Salze,
• (b) anionische Tenside und gegebenenfalls
• (c) nichtionische Tenside.

zur Herstellung von kosmetischen Zubereitungen, in denen sie in Mengen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 5 bis 25 und insbesondere 10 bis 15 Gew.-% – bezogen auf die Mittel – enthalten sein können.Another object of the invention relates to the use of aqueous mixtures containing

• (a) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucoside carboxylic acid salts,
• (b) anionic surfactants and optionally
• (c) nonionic surfactants.

for the production of cosmetic preparations in which they can be present in amounts of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 25 and in particular 10 to 15% by weight, based on the composition.

cosmetic preparations

The surfactant mixtures according to the invention can be used for Production of cosmetic preparations, such as hair shampoos, Hair lotions, bubble baths, Shower rooms, Creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, Emulsions, wax / fat masses, Stick preparations, Powder and the like are used. These funds can also be used as additional and additives oil bodies, emulsifiers, Pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, Stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, Phospholipids, UV light protection factors, biogenic agents, antioxidants, Deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, Swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), Hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like included.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -C ₄ come as oil bodies, for example ₁₃ -carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate , Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, Behenyl behenate, behenylerucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C _{1 8} -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols (cf. DE 19756377 A1 ), in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di / triglyceride mixtures Basis of C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or Polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol ^® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (eg Finsolv ^® TN), linear or twisted inclined, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as for example Squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

emulsifiers

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe sowie Alkylamine mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest;
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 1 bis 15 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 15 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• – Partialester von Glycerin und/oder Sorbitan mit ungesättigten, linearen oder gesättigten, verzweigten Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und/oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren mit 3 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie deren Addukte mit 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid;
• – Partialester von Polyglycerin (durchschnittlicher Eigenkondensationsgrad 2 bis 8), Polyethylenglycol (Molekulargewicht 400 bis 5000), Trimethylolpropan, Pentaerythrit, Zuckeralkoholen (z.B. Sorbit), Alkylglucosiden (z.B. Methylglucosid, Butylglucosid, Laurylglucosid) sowie Polyglucosiden (z.B. Cellulose) mit gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und/oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren mit 3 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie deren Addukte mit 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid;
• – Mischester aus Pentaerythrit, Fettsäuren, Citronensäure und Fettalkohol und/oder Mischester von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, Methylglucose und Polyolen, vorzugsweise Glycerin oder Polyglycerin.
• – Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphate sowie Mono-, Di- und/oder Tri-PEG-alkylphosphate und deren Salze;
• – Wollwachsalkohole;
• – Polysiloxan-Polyalkyl-Polyether-Copolymere bzw. entsprechende Derivate;
• – Block-Copolymere z.B. Polyethylenglycol-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate;
• – Polymeremulgatoren, z.B. Pemulen-Typen (TR-1,TR-2) von Goodrich;
• – Polyalkylenglycole sowie
• – Glycerincarbonat.

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• - Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• - Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• - Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
• - Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosi the (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;
• - Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.
• - Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• - wool wax alcohols;
• - Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• Block copolymers, for example polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
• - polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
• - Polyalkylene glycols as well
• - glycerine carbonate.

Ethylene Oxide

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the average degree of alkoxylation of which is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable ones Partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride as well as their technical mixtures, which are still minor from the manufacturing process May contain amounts of triglyceride. Are also suitable Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethylene oxide to the partial glycerides mentioned.

sorbitan

The sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, Sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, Sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, Sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, Sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquicinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, Sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, Sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotamate, Sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, Sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, Sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Addition products are also suitable from 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to the above Sorbitan.

polyglycerol

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan ^® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglycery1-3 Diisostearate (Isolan ^® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care ^® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina ^® ), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerl Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane ^® NL), Polyglyceryl -3 Distearate (Cremophor ^® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul ^® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic, as well as dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid or Sebacic acid.

amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 C. Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acylsarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. solid or liquid vegetable or animal Products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, waxes include natural Waxes such as Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, Cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, Montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, Ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanesterwachse, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as e.g. Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. Next the fats come as additives as substances similar to fat, such as lecithins and phospholipids in question. Under the name Lecithine means those skilled in the art those glycerophospholipids which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and form choline by esterification. Lecithins are used in the professional world therefore often as phosphatidylcholine (PC). Examples include natural lecithins Called cephalins, which are also known as phosphatidic acids and Represent derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-snglycerin-3-phosphoric acids. Understands against that one usually under phospholipids mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally considered to be fats. Besides that come too Sphingosine or sphingolipids in question.

pearlescent

For example, come as pearlescent waxes in question: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain ones Esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, Fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic, Ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency and thickening agents

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole ^® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene ^® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. As a particular DERS effective also bentonites, such as Bentone ^® Gel VS-SPC (Rheox) have been found, which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate. Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

Überfettungs

Substances can be used as superfatting agents such as lanolin and lecithin, and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, Monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter at the same time as foam stabilizers serve.

stabilizers

Metal salts can be used as stabilizers of fatty acids, such as. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400 ^® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as Luviquat ^® (BASF) , condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® ^® L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, for example amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine ^® / Sandoz), copolymers of Acrylic acid with dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat ^® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline v issued condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as ^Jaguar® CBS, ^Jaguar® C-17, ^Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, for example Mirapol ^® A-15, Mirapol ^® AD-1, Mirapol ^® AZ-1 from Mirapol.

As anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers come, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, Methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their Esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, Octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.Butylaminoethylmethacrylat / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are for example dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic Silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified Silicone compounds that are both liquid at room temperature also resin-shaped can be present. Simethicones, which are mixtures, are also suitable from dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.

UV light protection filters

• – 3-Benzylidencampher bzw. 3-Benzylidennorcampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher beschrieben;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylbenzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• – Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyl Triazon oder Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb^® HEB);
• – Propan-l,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-l,3-dion;
• – Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decan-Derivate.

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) present at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylic acid, homomethyl salicylic acid;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives.

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoyl methane, "for example 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol ^® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (Octocrylene), in combination with ester cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations are advantageously combined with water-soluble filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

Biogenic agents and antioxidants

Biogenic active ingredients include, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, (3-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudocleamides, essentielle ceramides, essentielle amides Plant extracts, such as prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.

Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain, which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, (β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine , Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximines, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) inert dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate ), Tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydrogenated acid , Nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its Derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

deodorants and germicides

Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract body odors, mask them or eliminate them. Body odors arise by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, being uncomfortable smelling degradation products are formed. Accordingly included Deodorants Active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, Odor absorber or odor masker act.

Anti-germ agents

In principle, all are germicidal agents substances effective against gram-positive bacteria, such as B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and their salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (Triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, Chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, Clove oil, Menthol, mint oil, Farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, Glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. Salicylic acid n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen ^® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances which are suitable esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, for example lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof such as glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester , Diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

odor absorbers

Suitable as odor absorbers are substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Geruchsab sorber have no effectiveness against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixers", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils include, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols anethole, citronellell Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, (β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate, alone or in mixtures.

antiperspirants

• – adstringierende Wirkstoffe,
• – Ölkomponenten,
• – nichtionische Emulgatoren,
• – Coemulgatoren,
• – Konsistenzgeber,
• – Hilfsstoffe wie z. B. Verdicker oder Komplexierungsmittel und/oder
• – nichtwässrige Lösungsmittel wie z. B. Ethanol, Propylenglykol und/oder Glycerin.

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

• - astringent active ingredients,
• - oil components,
• - nonionic emulsifiers,
• - co-emulsifiers,
• - consistency generator,
• - auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
• - non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

• – entzündungshemmende, hautschützende oder wohlriechende ätherische Öle,
• – synthetische hautschützende Wirkstoffe und/oder
• – öllösliche Parfümöle.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are, for example, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds, for. B. with 1,2-propylene glycol. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds, e.g. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Examples of such oil-soluble auxiliaries are:

• - anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,
• - synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
• - oil-soluble perfume oils.

usual water-soluble additions are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH value adjusting agents, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble Thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quater nary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Suitable antidandruff active ingredients are piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinonmonoethanolaminsalz) Baypival ^® (Climbazole), ketoconazole ^®, (4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, Schwefelpolyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon UD ^® (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, magnesium pyrithione Aluminiumpyrithion and / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, as swelling agents for aqueous phases, Clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) serve. Other suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R.Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Insect repellents

As insect repellents come N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate in question.

Self tanner and depigmentation

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. As tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of melanin and Find application in depigmenting agents, for example Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) in question.

hydrotropes

• – Glycerin;
• – Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycol, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Hexylenglycol sowie Polyethylenglycole mit einem durchschnittlichen Molekulargewicht von 100 bis 1.000 Dalton;
• – technische Oligoglyceringemische mit einem Eigenkondensationsgrad von 1,5 bis 10 wie etwa technische Diglyceringemische mit einem Diglyceringehalt von 40 bis 50 Gew.-%;
• – Methyolverbindungen, wie insbesondere Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit;
• – Niedrigalkylglucoside, insbesondere solche mit 1 bis 8 Kohlenstoffen im Alkylrest, wie beispielsweise Methyl- und Butylglucosid;
• – Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Sorbit oder Mannit,
• – Zucker mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose;
• – Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin;
• – Dialkoholamine, wie Diethanolamin oder 2-Amino-l,3-propandiol.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerin;
• - Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• - Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as the silver ^complexes known under the name Surfacine ^® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit bowls (berga moth, lemon, oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, Thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl benzylatepylpropionate, stally. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones, α-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate, alone or in mixtures.

For example, come as flavors Peppermint oil, spearmint, anise oil, star anise, Caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like in question.

dyes

Suitable dyes for cosmetic purposes and approved substances, such as those used in the publication "Cosmetic Colorant "of the dye commission the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, 5.81-106 are compiled. Examples are Kochillerot A (C.I. 16255), patent blue V (C.L42051), indigotine (C.L73015), chlorophyllin (C.L75810), Quinoline yellow (C.L47005), titanium dioxide (C.L77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.I. 69800) and madder varnish (C.L58000). As a luminescent dye may also contain luminol. These dyes are commonly used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total Mixture used.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes respectively; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples

Various surfactant compositions were tested for their viscosity (Brookfield method, 20 ° C., 10 rpm, spindle 1) and their foaming power (30 second value) after production; the latter was determined using the rotor foam measurement method, which is the subject of the German patent DE 19740096 C2 is. The application-related assessment on wet and dry hair was carried out in a sensory assessment on strands of hair from 10 subjects. A sodium lauryl ether sulfate solution with 14% by weight of detergent was used as the placebo. The assessment was based on the following scale: (o) = no effect; (+) slight improvement; (++) = improvement; (+++) = significant improvement. The results (mean values of three series of measurements) are summarized in Table 1. Examples 1 to 3 are according to the invention, examples V1 and V2 serve for comparison.

Table 1 Technical studies of surfactant compositions (quantities as% by weight)

You can see that through exchange of alkylamido betaines in a mixture of anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants against alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylic acid salts or their mixtures with alkyl oligoglucosides not only a light one increase the viscosity is achieved, but also the foaming power and the application technology Properties on skin and hair can be improved.

Claims (10)

aqueous Containing surfactant preparations (a) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucoside carboxylic acid salts, (B) anionic surfactants and optionally (c) nonionic surfactants. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain as component (a) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucoside carboxylic acid salts of the formula (I) R ¹ O [G] _p O [(CH ₂ ) _m COO ^- X ⁺ ] _n (I) in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G for a sugar radical with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, p for numbers from 1 to 10, m for numbers from 1 to 5, n for numbers from 1 to 5 and X represents alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkanolammonium, alkylammonium or glucammonium. Contain preparations according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that they are anionic surfactants as component (b) included that selected are from the group formed by alkylbenzenesulfonates, Alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty, Alkyl sulfates, alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, Monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates “mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates "sulfotriglycerides" amide soaps, carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, Fatty acid sarcosinates "fatty acid aurides" N-acylamino acids, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, Protein fatty acid condensates and alkyl (ether) phosphates and mixtures thereof. Preparations according to at least one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain alcohol ether sulfates of the formula (II) as component (b), R ² O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q SO ₃ X (II) in which R ^{2 is} an aliphatic linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, q is a number from 1 to 10 and X is alkali, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is non-ionic as component (c) Contain surfactants that are selected are from the group consisting of fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, Alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, Fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, alk (en) yl oligoglycosides, fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, Protein hydrolyzates, polyol fatty acid esters, Sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides and their mixtures. Preparations according to at least one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the formula (III) as component (c), R ³ O- [G] _p (III) in which R ^{3 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they have components (a) and (b) in weight ratio 1: 5 to 5: 1 included. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they have components (a) and (c) in weight ratio 1: 8 to 8: 1 included. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they (a) 1 to 15% by weight alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylic acid salts, (b) 10 to 20% by weight of anionic surfactants and (c) 0 to 15% by weight nonionic surfactants with the proviso contain that the quantity information with water and other usual Add auxiliaries and additives to 100% by weight. Use of surfactant mixtures containing (A) Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucoside carboxylic acid salts, (b) anionic Surfactants and optionally (c) nonionic surfactants to Manufacture of cosmetic preparations.