DE10216506A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological detergent preparations containing one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives and one or more ethoxylated oils - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations containing DOLLAR A (a) one or more pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives, DOLLAR A (b) one or more ethoxylated oils.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic cleaning agents. Such means are in themselves known. These are essentially surface-active substances or Mixtures of substances that are offered to the consumer in various preparations.

The production of cosmetic cleaning agents has been increasing for years Tendency. This is mainly due to the increasing health awareness and hygiene need attributed to the consumer.

Cleaning means the removal of (environmental) dirt and thus causes an increase of mental and physical wellbeing. Cleaning the surface of the skin and hair is a very complex process that depends on many parameters. On the one hand substances from outside such as hydrocarbons or inorganic pigments from a wide variety of environments and residues from cosmetics or unwanted microorganisms are removed as completely as possible. To the others are endogenous excretions such as sweat, sebum, skin and hair flakes wash off without deep intervention in the physiological balance.

The demands on the properties of cosmetic cleaning preparations have changed in the greatly changed in recent years. In the past, effects such as cleaning and foaming were used Foreground of consumer desires. At the moment the ecological, economic and especially dermatological properties of the products, although that Foaming power continues to play a crucial role, for example as an indicator Remove residual amounts of surfactants after cleaning skin and hair or around Avoid overdosing when using. However, stands for cosmetic Products - in contrast to most technical cleaning agents - the skin and Mucosal tolerance absolutely in the foreground; the products should be "mild".

Cosmetic or dermatological cleaning products are so-called "rinse often" Preparations that are rinsed off the skin after use. You will usually applied in the form of a foam with water to the parts of the body to be cleaned. Base all cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations are detergent surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water can. They are characterized by an ambivalent behavior towards water and lipids from: The surfactant molecule contains at least one hydrophilic and one lipophilic group, the allow attachment at the interface between these two classes of substances. In this way, surfactants reduce the surface tension of the Water, wetting the skin, facilitating dirt removal and removal, easy rinsing and - if desired - also for foam regulation. So that's it Basis for the removal of dirt from lipid-containing soiling.

• - anionische Tenside,
• - kationische Tenside,
• - amphotere Tenside und
• - nichtionische Tenside.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2); X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^- ;
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7);
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12); B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. B. Na ⁺ .

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

The detergent surfactants in cosmetic and dermatological cleaning agents are subject to a very critical assessment of their dermatological and ecological behavior. The latter is particularly important because it is in considerable amount are used and after use as intended in the waste water reach.

Based on the central importance of detergent surfactants already described their behavior on the human skin is extremely important for the cleaning process.

Even when the skin is cleaned with the help of water - without the addition of surfactants - the horny layer of the skin swells first. The degree of this swelling depends u. a. on the duration of the bath and its temperature. Be at the same time Washed off or washed out water-soluble substances, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances that are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer are responsible. The skin's own surface-active substances also help Skin fats to a certain extent loosened and washed out. This requires after initial Swelling a subsequent drying of the skin.

It is understandable that detergent surfactants, the skin and hair of oily and should clean water-soluble dirt components, also a degreasing effect on the have normal skin lipids. Every time you cleanse your skin to different degrees intercorneocytic lipids and sebum components removed. That means the natural Water-lipid coat of the skin is more or less disturbed with every washing process. This can lead to a short-term change in the degreasing process, especially with extreme degreasing Barrier function of the skin lead, of course, the respective state of treated skin region is of considerable influence on the changes shown. For example, the skin thickness, the number of sebum and sweat glands, as well as the associated sensitivity vary significantly.

Accordingly, the basic requirement for wash-active surfactants is that they are biologically as inactive as possible to avoid undesirable side effects. You should their cleaning effect with optimal mildness, best skin tolerance and less Develop degreasing.

There has also been no lack of attempts to find suitable cleaning preparations to find which regenerate the skin at the same time with good cleaning performance or "Back fat". However, the performance achieved often falls short of the expected, so that the user usually has to use separate care products, which be applied to the skin after cleaning and remain on it (so-called "leave-on" products).

Due to the increasing washing frequency at the consumer, however, continues to increase before the desire for mild, compatible and as regenerating as possible Preparations.

As a rule, cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations are very good an assumed range of applications tailored as for a defined, mild Cleaning effect especially the different ones depending on the application mechanical parameters - such as the time factor - are of considerable importance: This is e.g. B. clear if you look at the different Usage (contact) times of a foam bath compared to brief hand washing.

Cosmetic cleaning agents mostly contain mixtures of different types of surfactants. The selection is primarily based on skin tolerance and the desired cosmetic performance of surfactants. In addition, foaming power, formulability play and a favorable performance / cost ratio play an essential role.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic Detergent in the form of shaped soap products. Such means are known per se. It these are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances, which are offered to the consumer in various preparations. The invention especially concerns bar soaps with improved smoothness and increased Lime soap dispersibility through a content of talc and one or more amphoteric surfactants in the absence of alkyl (oligo) glycosides.

Surfactants - best known are the alkali salts of higher fatty acids, i.e. the classic "soaps" - are amphiphilic substances that contain organic nonpolar substances Can emulsify water.

These substances not only wash dirt from the skin and hair, they irritate, depending on the choice of the surfactant or the surfactant mixture, skin and mucous membranes more or less strong. It Although a large number of very mild surfactants are available, the surfactants are State of the art either mild, but clean poorly, or they clean well, irritate however, skin or mucous membranes.

Bar soaps play a major role in body cleansing, which on an industrial scale these days by continuously saponifying free fatty acids with alkalis, concentrating the Basic soaps and spray drying can be produced. One differentiates between real alkali soaps that contain only fatty acid salts and possibly still free Contain fatty acids and so-called "combibars", bar soaps, in addition to fatty acid salts other synthetic surfactants, usually fatty alcohol ether sulfates or Have fatty acid isothionates. The syndet soap, however, has a special position, so-called "syndet bars" which are free of fatty acid salts except for impurities and contain only synthetic surfactants.

In Germany alone, several million soap bars are used every year for personal hygiene sold. The requirements of the market for this mass consumer item are thereby however, always higher: bar soaps not only have to clean the skin, they also have to care for it, d. H. prevent drying out, regreasing and protection against external influences Offer. Of course, the soap is expected to be particularly skin-friendly is, but it should still result in as much and creamy foam in use and cause a pleasant feeling on the skin. In this context, manufacturers are looking of bar soaps constantly looking for new ingredients that have increased Take the requirement profile into account.

A distinction is made between solid, mostly bar-shaped, and liquid soaps. The main components are the alkali salts of the fatty acids of natural oils and the like. Fat, preferably of chain lengths C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ . Since lauric acid soaps foam particularly well, the lauric acid-rich coconut and palm kernel oils are preferred raw materials for fine soap production. The sodium salts of the fatty acid mixtures are solid, the potassium salts are soft-pasty. For saponification, the dilute sodium or potassium hydroxide solution is added to the fat raw materials in a stoichiometric ratio in such a way that the finished soap contains an excess of lye of at most 0.05%. In many cases, the soaps are no longer made directly from fats, but from the fatty acids obtained through fat splitting.

Usual soap additives are fatty acids, fatty alcohols, lanolin, lecithin, vegetable oils, Partial glycerides and other fat-like substances for regreasing the cleaned skin, Antioxidants such as ascorbyl palmitate or tocopherol to prevent autoxidation of the Soap (rancidity), complexing agents such as nitrilotriacetate for binding heavy metal Traces that could catalyze autoxidative spoilage, perfume oils to achieve the desired fragrance notes, dyes for coloring the soap bars and if desired special additives.

• - Toilettenseifen mit 20-50% Kokosöl im Fettansatz, bis 5% Rückfetter-Anteil und 0,5-2% Parfümöl, sie bilden den größten Anteil der Feinseifen;
• - Luxusseifen mit bis zu 5% besonders kostbarer Parfümöle;
• - Deoseifen mit Zusätzen desodorierender Wirkstoffe, wie z. B. 3,4,4'-Trichlorcarbonilid (Triclocarbon);
• - Cremeseifen mit besonders hohen Anteilen rückfettender und die Haut cremender Substanzen;
• - Babyseifen mit guter Rückfettung und zusätzlich pflegenden Anteilen wie z. B. Kamille- Extrakten, allenfalls sehr schwach parfümiert;
• - Hautschutzseifen mit hohen Anteilen rückfettender Substanzen sowie weiteren pflegenden und schützenden Zusätzen, wie z. B. Proteinen;
• - Transparentseifen mit Zusätzen von Glycerin, Zucker u. a., welche die Kristallisation der Fettsäuresalze in der erstarrten Seifenschmelze verhindern und so ein transparentes Aussehen bewirken;
• - Schwimmseifen mit einer Dichte < 1, hervorgerufen durch bei der Herstellung kontrolliert eingearbeitete Luftbläschen.
• - Seifen mit abrasiven Zusätzen zur Reinigung stark verschmutzter Hände.

The most important types of fine soaps are:

• - Toilet soaps with 20-50% coconut oil in the fat base, up to 5% lipid replenishment and 0.5-2% perfume oil, they form the largest proportion of fine soaps;
• - luxury soaps with up to 5% particularly valuable perfume oils;
• - Deodorant soaps with additives deodorising agents, such as. B. 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide (triclocarbon);
• - Cream soaps with particularly high proportions of lipid-replenishing and skin-creaming substances;
• - Baby soaps with good regreasing and additional nourishing components such as B. chamomile extracts, at most very slightly perfumed;
• - Skin protection soaps with high proportions of moisturizing substances as well as other nourishing and protective additives, such as B. proteins;
• - Transparent soaps with additions of glycerin, sugar and others, which prevent the crystallization of the fatty acid salts in the solidified soap melt and thus bring about a transparent appearance;
• - Floating soaps with a density <1, caused by air bubbles incorporated in a controlled manner during production.
• - Soaps with abrasive additives for cleaning heavily soiled hands.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to liquid soaps or Washing lotions. Such products are not only used to clean hands, but in Usually also used for the whole body, including the face. You are suitable accordingly also for use as a shower preparation. When developing These products focus on the dermatological requirements, as the skin in there is intensive contact with the concentrated surfactant solution. Milder on the selection Low concentration of surfactants is therefore particularly important. Other criteria are also a good foaming power and a pleasant, refreshing fragrance and the simultaneous skin care. Washing lotions and especially shower baths have in the Usually viscosities of around 3,000 to 10,000 mPa.s, which on the one hand are good Allow spreadability of the product with quick foaming, but at the same time high should be enough to ensure proper use by hand or washcloth enable.

Liquid soaps or washing lotions are generally characterized by a more or less high water content, but usually do not develop any significant Care effect, since they have only a low oil content.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a relatively new one Technical development, namely shower preparations containing surfactants with a high oil content. The German Offenlegungsschrift 44 24 210 describes cosmetic in this context or dermatological shower preparations with a surfactant content of at most 55% by weight and an oil content of more than 45% by weight, the preparations being essentially are anhydrous. Due to the high oil content, these preparations have a regenerating effect related to the general skin condition. You have a good one at the same time Foam development and high cleaning power.

WO 96/17591 further describes foaming liquid skin cleansing compositions which contain the following substances: 5 to 30% by weight of a moisturizing active ingredient which has a Vaughan Solubility Parameter (VSP) of 5 to 10, 0.3 to 5% by weight a water-dispersible gel-forming polymer, 5 to 30% by weight of a synthetic surface-active substance, 0 to 15% by weight of a C ₈ to C ₁₄ fatty acid soap and water, the preparations having a lipid deposition value (LDV) of at least 5 to 1000 and wherein the synthetic surfactant and the soap have a common CMC equilibrium surface tension value of 15 to 50. However, this document could not show the way to the present invention.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention also relates to Emulsion-based cleaning products. These are formulated in such a way that the emulsion with Emulsifiers stabilized and then a surfactant system is adapted.

Emulsifiers also have an amphiphilic structure, which means they have the same structure as the surfactants comparable here. Emulsifiers enable or facilitate even distribution two or more immiscible phases and prevent at the same time their segregation. Because emulsions are generally destroyed by the addition of surfactants the choice of surfactant system is severely restricted, and the one obtained Cleaning preparations are based on expensive and complicated recipes.

At the end of the 1940s, a system was developed that should make it easier to select emulsifiers. A so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20) is assigned to each emulsifier, which indicates whether there is a preferred water or oil solubility. Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic. The HLB value says something about the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an emulsifier. From these considerations it can be deduced that the effectiveness of an emulsifier can also be characterized by its HLB value. The following list shows the relationship between the HLB value and the possible area of application:
HLB value field of use 0 to 3 defoamers 3 to 8 W / O emulsifier 7 to 9 wetting agent 8 to 18 O / W emulsifier 12 to 18 solubilizers

The HLB value of an emulsifier can also be composed of increments, whereby the HLB increments for the different hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups from which a molecule is composed, tables can be found. On In principle, HLB values can also be determined for wash-active surfactants, although the HLB system was originally designed only for emulsifiers. It shows, that wash-active substances generally have HLB values that are significantly greater than 20.

The object of the present invention was to provide cleaning preparations on the basis to provide emulsions which have the disadvantages of the prior art To remedy the situation and accordingly simple and inexpensive recipes underlie. The preparations should also have a high care effect without that the cleaning effect lags behind.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations in the form of gels.

Cosmetic gels are extremely popular with consumers. Since most of the time are transparent, often colored but should also be colorlessly clear as often as they offer cosmetic developers additional design options, some of which are functional Have character, but sometimes only the improvement of the exterior Serve appearance. For example, the product, which is the viewer then usually presented in clear packaging, by incorporated Color pigments, gas bubbles and the like, or even larger objects, interesting optical effects are given.

Another task was to provide cleaning preparations, which if desired, can be designed as visually appealing, stable gels.

Ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters are used in aqueous cleaning formulations used for various purposes. Low ethoxylated glycerin fatty acid esters (EO 3-12) are used usually as a moisturizer to improve the feeling on the skin after drying, Glycerin fatty acid esters with a degree of ethoxylation of approx. 30-50 serve as Solubilizer for non-polar substances such as perfume oils.

Highly ethoxylated glycerin fatty acid esters are used as thickeners. All of these Common to substances is that they are applied to the skin when diluted produce a slippery skin feel with water, which is uncomfortable for consumers is felt.

• a) ein oder mehrere vorgelatinisierte, quervernetzte Stärkederivate
• b) ein oder mehrere ethoxylierte Öle.

It was therefore astonishing and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that the objects on which the invention is based are achieved by detergent-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising:

• a) one or more pre-gelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives
• b) one or more ethoxylated oils.

It is known that pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives from aqueous Apply cleansing formulations to the skin while leaving a pleasant feeling on the skin Drying creates. It was therefore not foreseeable for the expert that Pre-gelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives are capable of giving the skin a slippery feel Wash down that is produced by ethoxylated glycerin fatty acid esters.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological cleaning preparations in the sense of The present invention is based on simple and inexpensive formulations. They have good foaming and high cleaning power at the same time. The Preparations have a regenerating effect on the general skin condition, reduce this Feeling dryness of the skin and making the skin supple.

According to the invention, the ethoxylated oils are advantageously selected from the group of ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, particularly preferred: PEG-10 olive oil glycerides, PEG- 11 avocado oil glycerides, PEG-11 cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-13 sunflower oil glycerides, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, jojoba oil ethoxylate (PEG-26 Jojoba fatty acids, PEG-26 jojoba alcohol), glycereth-5 cocoat, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, PEG-35 castor oil, olive oil PEG-7 Esters, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, PEG-10 olive oil glycerides, PEG-13 Sunflower oil glycerides, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glyceride PEG-6 Esters, PEG-20 corn oil glycerides, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate / cocoate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 corn oil glycerides, PEG-54 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-60 almond oil glycerides, PEG-60 "Evening Primrose" glycerides, PEG-200 hydrogenated Glyceryl palmat, PEG-90 glyceryl isostearate.

Preferred ethoxylated oils are PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-9 coconut glycerides, PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmat.

It is advantageous according to the invention if one or more pre-gelatinized, crosslinked Starch derivatives in a concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably in one Concentration from 0.3 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, in the Preparations according to the invention are included.

It is advantageous according to the invention if one or more ethoxylated oils in one Concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.2 to 8% by weight % and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.3 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation in the preparations according to the invention are included.

According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if as a pre-gelatinized, crosslinked Starch derivatives of hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used. Particularly advantageous starch derivatives such as those described in US Pat. No. 6,248,338 are special advantageous hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate. Use is very particularly preferred a Hydroxypropyldistärkephosphates, as it as Product Structure® XL from the company National Starch is sold.

The cleaning preparations advantageously contain one or more of the invention wash-active anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or non-ionic surfactants. It is the washing-active surfactants according to the invention from the group are particularly advantageous to choose the surfactants that have an HLB value of more than 25, especially those with an HLB value of more than 35 are advantageous.

• - Acylglutamate, insbesondere Natriumacylglutamat
• - Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,

Sulfonsäuren und deren Salze, wie

• - Acyl-isethionate, z. B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
• - Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA-Sulfosuccinat

sowie Schwefelsäureester, wie

• - Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12-13 Parethsulfat,
• - Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat

sowie carboxylierte Triglycerid-Ethoxylate wie

• - Natrium PEG-4 Olivenölcarboxylate.

Very particularly advantageous washing-active anionic surfactants in the sense of the present invention are
Acylamino acids and their salts, such as

• - Acylglutamate, especially sodium acylglutamate
• Sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

Sulfonic acids and their salts, such as

• - Acyl isethionates, e.g. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

• Alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• - Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate

as well as carboxylated triglyceride ethoxylates such as

• - Sodium PEG-4 olive oil carboxylates.

Very particularly advantageous washing-active cationic surfactants in the sense of the present Invention are quaternary surfactants. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom, which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Are advantageous Benzalkonium chloride, alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultain.

• - Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamine, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,

Very particularly advantageous washing-active amphoteric surfactants in the sense of the present invention are

• Acyl- / dialkylethylenediamines, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

• - Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/DEA/MIPA,
• - Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
• - Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.

Very particularly advantageous washing-active nonionic surfactants in the sense of the present invention are

• Alkanolamides, such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• Esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• - Ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

• - Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• - Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat,
• - Phosphorsäureester und Salze, wie beispielsweise DEA-Oleth-10 Phosphat und Dilaureth-4 Phosphat,
• - Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C12-14 Olefin-sulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat.

Other advantageous anionic surfactants are

• Taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
• Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-Oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate,
• - Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.

• - N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Other advantageous amphoteric surfactants are

• - N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

Further advantageous non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.

• - Acylglutamate wie Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/Capric Glutamat,
• - Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Kollagen und acylierte Weizenprotein Hydrolysate beispielsweise Natrium Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Weizenprotein,

sowie Carbonsäuren und Derivate, wie

• - beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• - Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat,
• - Alkylarylsulfonate.

Other suitable anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also

• Acylglutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen and acylated wheat protein hydrolyzates, for example sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein,

as well as carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• Ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• - alkylarylsulfonates.

• - Alkylamine,
• - Alkylimidazole und
• - ethoxylierte Amine.

Other suitable cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also

• - alkylamines,
• - alkylimidazoles and
• - ethoxylated amines.

Other suitable non-ionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also Amine oxides such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the content of one or several detersive surfactants in cosmetic or dermatological Cleaning preparations in the range from 5 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 10 to 20% by weight is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

According to the invention, it is advantageous to use those used according to the invention Active ingredient combinations or cosmetic or dermatological preparations, such Add active ingredient combinations containing complexing agents.

Complexing agents are known auxiliaries in cosmetology and medical Pharmaceutical technology. By complexing interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can, for example, undesirable chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be prevented.

Complexing agents, especially chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which contribute to The presence of one or more polybasic complexing agents, i.e. chelators, metallacycles represent. Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand has more than one Coordination point occupied at a central atom. So in this case normally elongated compounds to form rings through complex formation via a metal atom or ion closed. The number of ligands bound depends on the coordination number of the central metal. The prerequisite for chelation is that with the metal reacting compound contains two or more atomic groups, which act as electron donors Act.

The complexing agent (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of the usual compounds can be selected, preferably at least one substance from the group consisting of Tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their Anions, Nitrilotriessigsäure (NTA) and their anions, Hydroxyethylenediaminotriessigsäure (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethylene aminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions).

According to the invention, the complexing agent or complexing agents are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferably at 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably at 0.05% by weight up to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-2.0% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparations included.

An optional oil component of the cosmetic or dermatological Cleaning preparations - for example in the form of cleaning emulsions - in the sense of The present invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from which Group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, Erucylerucat as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil component can advantageously be selected from the group of the branched ones and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, z. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, Palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in the sense to use the present invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

The oil component is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 - benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention.

The oil component can also advantageously have a cyclic or linear content Have silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred besides the silicone oil or oils an additional content of others To use oil phase components.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and are also particularly advantageous Isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The oil component is also advantageously selected from the group of the phospholipids. The phospholipids are phosphoric acid esters of acylated glycerols. Of great importance among the phosphatidylcholines are, for example, the lecithins, which are characterized by the general structure


distinguish, where R 'and R "typically represent unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.

Cleaning preparations according to the invention are advantageously in the form of gels and contain one or more gelling agents or hydrocolloids.

"Hydrocolloid" is the technological short name for the more correct term "hydrophilic colloid". Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that enable secondary and main valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. Some of them are water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, the common feature of which is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked. The hydrophilic groups can be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:

• - organische, natürliche Verbindungen, wie beispielsweise Agar-Agar, Carrageen, Tragant, Gummi arabicum, Alginate, Pektine, Polyosen, Guar-Mehl, Johannisbrotbaumkernmehl, Stärke, Dextrine, Gelatine, Casein,
• - organische, abgewandelte Naturstoffe, wie z. B. Carboxymethylcellulose und andere Celluloseether, Hydroxyethyl- und -propylcellulose und dergleichen,
• - organische, vollsynthetische Verbindungen, wie z. B. Polyacryl- und Polymethacryl-Verbindungen, Vinylpolymere, Polycarbonsäuren, Polyether, Polyimine, Polyamide,
• - anorganische Verbindungen, wie z. B. Polykieselsäuren, Tonmineralien wie Montmorillonite, Zeolithe, Kieselsäuren.

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be divided as follows:

• organic, natural compounds, such as agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,
• - Organic, modified natural substances, such as. B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and the like,
• - Organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as. B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides,
• - inorganic compounds, such as. B. polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas.

Hydrocolloids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula


in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Those in general are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention also referred to as methyl cellulosic mixed cellulose ether, which in addition to a dominant content of methyl additionally 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl Groups included. (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH ₂ COONa. Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also referred to as cellulose gum.

For the purposes of the present invention, preference is also given to xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also known as xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 × 10 ⁶ to 24 × 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain with β-1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name for the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain with β-1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane. Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on the carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The work-up takes place after killing the culture by precipitation with z. B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.

An advantageous gel former in the sense of the present invention is carrageenan, a gel-forming extract similar to agar from North Atlantic, to the Florideen red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

The term carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%. Carrageenan, which is very easily soluble in warm water; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. There are three main components in carrageenan: The gel-forming κ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1,3- and 1,4-positions (In contrast, agar contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L-galactose). The non-gelling λ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues u. Easily soluble in cold water. The i-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other types of carrageenan are also designated with Greek letters: α, β, γ, µ, ν, ξ, π, ω, χ. The type of cations present (K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Na ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.

Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention. Polyacrylates are compounds of the general structural formula


whose molecular weight can be between approximately 400,000 and more than 4,000,000.

Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of the BF Goodrich Company). In particular, the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:

R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which correspond to the respective symbolize the stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.

Acrylate copolymers and / or are particularly preferred according to the invention Acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers sold under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984 are available from B.F. Goodrich Company.

Copolymers of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, are also advantageous.

Compounds which have the INCI name "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate are advantageous Crosspolymer ". Particularly advantageous are those under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 available from B.F. Goodrich Company.

The total amount of one or more hydrocolloids is in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously less than 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, selected.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the content of one or several polyacrylates in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsion from the Range selected from 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, very particularly advantageously from 0.7 to 1.5 wt .-% is based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic preparations, the cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin represent can be in liquid or solid form.

The compositions according to the invention contain, besides the aforementioned Substances, if necessary, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, Dyes, antimicrobials, lipid replenishing agents, complexing and Sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, Preservatives, bactericides, pigments that have a coloring effect, Thickeners, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or others usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or Silicone derivatives.

An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention can be used as cheap antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological Applications suitable or customary antioxidants can be used.

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. As dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and Lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulf one, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α- (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO ₄₎ rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof S elen and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Emulsions is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, their respective concentrations based on the range of 0.001 to 10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the Antioxidants are beneficial, their respective concentrations out of the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The following examples, in which washing preparations for hair and body care are described, are intended to illustrate the compositions according to the invention, but without the intention of restricting the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations. formulation Examples

Claims (12)

1. Cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations containing a) one or more pre-gelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives b) one or more ethoxylated oils. 2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that as pre-gelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used. 3. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that as pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivative hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate (CAS number 113894-92-1) is used. 4. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the or the ethoxylated oils are selected from the group of ethoxylated Glycerol fatty acid esters, particularly preferred: PEG-10 olive oil glycerides, PEG-11 Avocado oil glyceride, PEG-11 cocoa butter glyceride, PEG-13 sunflower oil glyceride, PEG-15 Glyceryl isostearate, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil, jojoba oil ethoxylate (PEG-26 jojoba Fatty acids, PEG-26 jojoba alcohol), glycereth-5 cocoat, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, PEG-35 castor oil, olive oil PEG-7 Esters, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, PEG-10 olive oil glycerides, PEG-13 Sunflower oil glycerides, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glyceride PEG-6 Esters, PEG-20 corn oil glycerides, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate / cocoate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 corn oil glycerides, PEG-54 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-60 almond oil glycerides, PEG-60 "Evening Primrose" glycerides, PEG-200 hydrogenated Glyceryl palmat, PEG-90 glyceryl isostearate. 5. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the or the pre-gelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives in a concentration from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a concentration from 0.3 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation contained in the preparations according to the invention are. 6. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ethoxylated oil or oils in a concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.2 to 8% by weight and very particularly preferably in one Concentration of 0.3 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, are contained in the preparations according to the invention. 7. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that they are in the form of gels. 8. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are in the form of liquid dosage forms. 9. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are in the form of solid bars of soap or syndet. 10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they additionally selected one or more detergent surfactants from the group of contains anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants. 11. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant or surfactants are selected from the group which is formed from, myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate, dioctyl sodium disulfosuccinate sulfate succinate , Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate, alkyl betainainonium chloride, benzbetainonium chloride -amidopropylhydroxysultain, sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate, cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA, lauryl glucoside, decoglycoside. 12. Cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsions according to one of the previous claims, characterized in that it prefers an alkyl ether sulfate Contain lauryl ether sulfate or myristyl ether sulfate.