EP1351665A1

EP1351665A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological washing preparations containing an effective quantity of iminodisuccinic acid and/or the salts thereof

Info

Publication number: EP1351665A1
Application number: EP02718012A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Stephan Ruppert; Kathrin Counradi; Horst Argembeaux; Manuela Bluck
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-01-10
Filing date: 2002-01-08
Publication date: 2003-10-15
Also published as: DE10100720A1; WO2002055050A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations containing (a) an effective quantity of at least one surfactant, and (b) an effective quantity of iminodisuccinic acid and/or the salts thereof.

Description

description

Cosmetic and dermatological detergent preparations containing an effective amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts

The present invention relates to cosmetic cleaning agents. Such means are known per se. These are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances that are offered to the consumer in various preparations.

The production of cosmetic cleaning agents has shown an increasing trend for years. This is primarily due to the increasing health awareness and hygiene needs of consumers.

Cleaning means the removal of (environmental) dirt and thus increases the psychological and physical well-being. Cleaning the surface of skin and hair is a very complex process that depends on many parameters. On the one hand, substances coming from outside, such as hydrocarbons or inorganic pigments from a wide variety of environments, as well as residues from cosmetics or undesired microorganisms, should be removed as completely as possible. On the other hand, the body's excretions such as sweat, sebum, skin and hair flakes can be washed off without deep intervention in the physiological balance.

The demands placed on the properties of cosmetic cleaning preparations have changed significantly in recent years. In the past, effects such as cleaning and foaming were the focus of consumer requests. At the moment, the ecological, economic and, in particular, dermatological properties of the products are paramount, although the foaming power still plays a decisive role, for example as an indi- kator to remove residual amounts of surfactants after cleaning the skin and hair or to avoid overdoses during use. However, in contrast to most technical cleaning agents, the main focus of cosmetic products is on skin and mucous membrane compatibility; the products should be "mild".

Cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations are so-called "rinse off" preparations, which are rinsed off the skin after use. They are generally applied in the form of a foam with water to the parts of the body to be cleaned. All cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations are based on detergent surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water and are characterized by an ambivalent behavior towards water and lipids: the surfactant molecule contains at least one hydrophilic and one lipophilic group, which bind to the interface between these two classes of substances In this way, surfactants ensure a reduction in the surface tension of the water, wetting of the skin, facilitating the removal and removal of dirt, easy rinsing and - if desired - also for foam regulation. This is the basis for the dirt Removal of lipid-containing contaminants.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OSO ₃ ^2" , -SO ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally classified according to Art and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solutions they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^" (at pH = 2) X ^" = any anion, eg Cl ^"

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

The detergent surfactants in cosmetic and dermatological cleaning agents are subject to a very critical assessment with regard to their dermatological and ecological behavior. The latter is particularly important because they are used in considerable quantities and are discharged as intended after use.

Based on the already described central importance of the detergent surfactants for the cleaning process, their behavior on the human skin is of paramount importance.

When the skin is cleaned with water - without the addition of surfactants - the horny layer of the skin swells. The degree of this swelling depends, among other things, on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer. Skin oils are also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent by the skin's own surface-active substances. After initial swelling, this causes the skin to dry out subsequently. It is understandable that detersive surfactants, which are intended to clean the skin and hair of greasy and water-soluble dirt components, also have a degreasing effect on normal skin lipids. Every time the skin is cleaned, intercomomeocytic lipids and sebum components are also removed to different degrees. This means that the natural water-lipid coat of the skin is more or less disturbed with every wash. This can lead to a short-term change in the barrier function of the skin, particularly in the case of extreme degreasing, the course of which the condition of the treated skin region also has a considerable influence on the changes shown. For example, the thickness of the skin, the number of sebum and sweat glands and the sensitivity associated with it can vary considerably.

Accordingly, the basic requirement for wash-active surfactants is that they are as inactive as possible in order to avoid undesirable side effects. They should develop their cleaning effect with optimal mildness, best skin compatibility and low degreasing.

However, there has also been no lack of attempts to find suitable cleansing preparations which regenerate or “regrease” the skin at the same time with good cleaning performance. However, the performance achieved often falls short of the expected, so that the user generally relies on separate care products which must be applied to the skin after cleaning and remain on it (so-called "leave-on" products).

Due to the increasing washing frequency among consumers, however, the desire for mild, compatible and as regenerating preparations as possible continues to increase.

As a rule, cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations are very well tailored to an assumed range of applications, since the mechanical parameters, such as the time factor, which vary depending on the application, are of particular importance for a defined, mild cleaning effect. B. clearly if you consider the different times of use (contact) of a foam bath compared to brief hand washing. Cosmetic cleaning agents usually contain mixtures of different types of surfactants. The selection is primarily based on skin tolerance and the desired cosmetic performance of the surfactants. In addition, foaming power, formulability and a favorable performance / cost ratio play an important role.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic cleaning agents in the form of shaped soap products. Such means are known per se. These are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances that are offered to the consumer in various preparations. The invention relates in particular to bar soaps with improved smoothness and increased lime soap dispersing capacity due to a content of talc and one or more amphoteric surfactants with a simultaneous absence of alkyl (oligo) glycosides.

Surface-active substances - best known are the alkali salts of higher fatty acids, ie the classic "soaps" - are amphiphilic substances that can emulsify organic non-polar substances in water.

These substances not only wash dirt from the skin and hair, they irritate the skin and mucous membranes to a greater or lesser extent, depending on the choice of surfactant or surfactant mixture. While a large number of fairly mild surfactants are available, the prior art surfactants are either mild, but clean poorly, or they clean well but irritate skin or mucous membranes.

Bar soaps play a major role in body cleansing, which are now produced on an industrial scale by continuously saponifying free fatty acids with alkalis, concentrating basic soaps and spray drying. A distinction is made between real alkali soaps, which contain only fatty acid salts and possibly still free fatty acids, and so-called "combibars", bar soaps which, in addition to fatty acid salts, also contain other synthetic surfactants, usually fatty alcohol ether sulfates or fatty acid isothionates. In contrast, syndet bars, so-called "syndet bars", occupy a special position. Apart from impurities, they are free of fatty acid salts and contain only synthetic surfactants. In Germany alone, several million soap bars are sold every year for personal hygiene. However, the demands of the market for these mass consumer goods are becoming ever higher: bar soaps not only have to clean the skin, they also have to take care of it, ie prevent it from drying out, relubricate it and offer protection against external influences. Of course, it is expected that the soap is particularly skin-friendly, but in use it should nevertheless produce as much and creamy foam as possible and cause a pleasant feeling on the skin. In this context, bar soap manufacturers are constantly looking for new ingredients that meet this increased requirement profile.

A distinction is made between solid, mostly bar-shaped, and liquid soaps. The main components are the alkali salts of the fatty acids of natural oils and. Fats, preferably the chain lengths Cι ₂ -Ci8. Since lauric acid soaps foam particularly well, the lauric acid-rich coconut and palm kernel oils are preferred raw materials for fine soap manufacture. The sodium salts of the fatty acid mixtures are solid, the potassium salts are soft-pasty. For saponification, the dilute sodium or potassium hydroxide solution is added to the fat raw materials in a stoichiometric ratio in such a way that an excess of lye of at most 0.05% is present in the finished soap. In many cases, soaps are no longer made directly from fats, but from the fatty acids obtained through fat splitting.

Usual soap additives are fatty acids, fatty alcohols, lanolin, lecithin, vegetable oils, partial glycerides and other fat-like substances for regreasing the cleansed skin, antioxidants such as ascorbyl palmitate or tocopherol to prevent the autoxidation of soap (rancidity), complexing agents such as nitrilotriacetate Heavy metal traces that could catalyze autoxidative spoilage, perfume oils to achieve the desired fragrance notes, dyes to color the soap bars and, if required, special additives.

The most important types of fine soaps are:

Toilet soaps with 20 - 50% coconut oil in the fat base, up to 5% moisturizing and

0.5 - 2% perfume oil, they form the largest proportion of fine soaps;

Luxury soaps with up to 5% particularly valuable perfume oils;

Deodorant soaps with additives of deodorising agents, such as. B. 3,4,4'-

Trichlorocarbanilide (triclocarban); Cream soaps with particularly high proportions of lipid-replenishing and skin-creaming substances;

Baby soaps with good regreasing and additional nourishing components such as B. chamomile extracts, at most very slightly perfumed;

- ^" Skin protection soaps with high proportions of moisturizing substances as well as other nourishing and protective additives, such as proteins;

- Transparent soaps with additives of glycerin, sugar and. a., which prevent the crystallization of the fatty acid salts in the solidified soap melt and thus bring about a transparent appearance;

- Floating soaps with a density <1, caused by air bubbles incorporated in a controlled manner during production.

Soaps with abrasive additives for cleaning heavily soiled hands.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to liquid soaps or washing lotions. Such products are not only used to clean the hands, but usually also for the whole body, including the face. Accordingly, they are also suitable for use as a shower preparation. The development of these products focuses on the dermatological requirements, since the skin comes into intensive contact with the concentrated surfactant solution. Special emphasis is therefore placed on the selection of mild surfactants in low concentrations. Further criteria are good foaming power as well as a pleasant, refreshing fragrance and the simultaneous care of the skin. Washing lotions and shower baths in particular generally have viscosities of around 3,000 to 10,000 mPa-s, which on the one hand allow the product to be spread easily with quick foaming, but on the other hand should be high enough to enable perfect use by hand or washcloth.

Liquid soaps or washing lotions are generally characterized by a more or less high water content, but usually do not have a noticeable care effect, since they have only a low oil content.

In a special embodiment, the present invention relates to a relatively new technical development, namely shower preparations containing surfactants with a high oil content. In this context, German Offenlegungsschrift 44 24 210 describes metallic or dermatological shower preparations with a surfactant content of at most 55% by weight and an oil content of more than 45% by weight, the preparations being essentially water-free. Due to the high oil content, these preparations have a regenerating effect on the general skin condition. At the same time, they have good foam development and high cleaning power.

Furthermore, WO 96/17591 describes foaming liquid skin cleaning compositions which contain the following substances: 5 to 30% by weight of a moisturizing active ingredient which has a Vaughan Solubility Parameter (VSP) of 5 to 10, 0.3 to 5% by weight. % of a water-dispersible gel-forming polymer, 5 to 30% by weight of a synthetic surface-active substance, 0 to 15% by weight of a C ₈ to C- ₄ fatty acid soap and water, the preparations having a lipid deposition value (LDV) from at least 5 to 1000 and wherein the synthetic surfactant and the soap have a common CMC equilibrium surface tension value of from 15 to 50. However, this document could not show the way to the present invention.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention also relates to cleaning products based on emulsions. These are formulated in such a way that the emulsion is stabilized with emulsifiers and then a surfactant system is adapted.

Emulsifiers also have an amphiphilic structure, so their structure is comparable to that of surfactants. Emulsifiers enable or facilitate the uniform distribution of two or more immiscible phases and at the same time prevent their separation. Since emulsions are generally destroyed by the addition of surfactants, the choice of surfactant system is severely restricted and the cleaning preparations obtained are based on expensive and complicated formulations.

At the end of the 1940s, a system was developed that should make it easier to select emulsifiers. A so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20) is assigned to each emulsifier, which indicates whether there is a preferred water or oil solubility. Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic. The HLB value says something about the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an emul gators out. From these considerations it can be deduced that the effectiveness of an emulsifier can also be characterized by its HLB value. The following table shows the relationship between the HLB value and the possible area of application:

HLB value area of application

0 to 3 defoamers

3 to 8 W / O emulsifier

7 to 9 wetting agents

8 to 18 O / W emulsifier 12 to 18 solubilizers

The HLB value of an emulsifier can also be composed of increments, the HLB increments for the various hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups from which a molecule is composed can be found in tables. In principle, HLB values can also be determined for detergent surfactants in this way, although the HLB system was originally designed only for emulsifiers. It can be seen that wash-active substances generally have HLB values that are significantly greater than 20.

The object of the present invention was to provide cleaning preparations based on emulsions which remedy the disadvantages of the prior art and which are accordingly based on simple and inexpensive formulations. The preparations should also have a high care effect without detracting from the cleaning effect.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations in the form of gels

Cosmetic gels are extremely popular with consumers. Since they are mostly transparent, often colored but just as often should be colorless, they offer the cosmetic developer additional design options, some of which have a functional character, but some of which only serve to improve the external appearance. For example, the product, which is then usually presented to the viewer in transparent packaging, can be worked color pigments, gas bubbles and the like, or even larger objects, interesting optical effects are given.

Another object was to provide cleaning preparations which, if desired, can be designed as visually appealing, stable gels.

The present invention further relates to wash-active hair cosmetic preparations, generally referred to as shampoos. In particular, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic active ingredient combinations and preparations for the care of the hair and scalp. The prior art lacks shampoo formulations which provide damaged hair with satisfactory care. The task was therefore to remedy these disadvantages of the prior art.

It has been shown to be surprising, and this is the solution to these problems that cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations containing

(a) an effective amount of one or more surfactants and

(b) an effective amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts

or the use of a combination of

(a) an effective amount of one or more surfactants and

(b) an effective amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts for the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations would alleviate the disadvantages of the prior art.

It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention would have higher stability and would be characterized by better biocompatibility than the preparations of the prior art.

The use of iminodisuccinic acid as a complexing agent and its basic suitability in cosmetics is known per se, for example from DE 197 12 911. Nevertheless, this document was not the path that ultimately reveals nothing more than the word "cosmetics", not the path to the present invention point. Iminodisuccinic acid has the following structure, although there is probably a balance of tautomeric forms:

According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.5 to 10% by weight, very particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological cleaning preparations in the sense of the present invention are based on simple and inexpensive formulations. They have good foam development and high cleaning power at the same time. The preparations have a regenerating effect on the general skin condition, reduce the feeling of dryness of the skin and make the skin supple.

The cleaning preparations advantageously contain one or more wash-active anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or non-ionic surfactants according to the invention. It is particularly advantageous to choose the wash-active surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, very particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.

Very particularly advantageous wash-active anionic surfactants in the sense of the present

Are invention

Acylamino acids and their salts, such as

^■ acylglutamates, especially sodium acylglutamate

Sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

Sulfonic acids and their salts, such as

^■ acyl isethionates, eg sodium / Ammoniumcocoyl isethionate, Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

^■ alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium and sodium C12-13 pareth,

^■ Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

Quaternary surfactants are very particularly advantageous washing-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Benzalkonium chloride, alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultain are advantageous.

Particularly advantageous washing-active amphoteric surfactants in the sense of the present invention are

^■ acyl / dialkylethylenediamines, for example sodium, Dinatriumacyl- amphodipropionat, disodium, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropyl- sulfonate, and sodium acyl Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat,

Very particularly advantageous washing-active nonionic surfactants in the sense of the present invention are

^■ alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,

^■ esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

^■ ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

Other advantageous anionic surfactants are

^■ taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

^■ ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-Oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate,

■ Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.

Other advantageous amphoteric surfactants are

^■ N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

Further advantageous non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.

Other suitable anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also

^■ glutamates, such as di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

^■ Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen

as well as carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

^■ example, lauric acid, cylenat aluminum stearate, magnesium and Zinkunde-,

^■ ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

^■ alkylarylsulfonates.

Other suitable cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are furthermore

^■ alkylamines,

^■ Alkylimidazoles and

^■ ethoxylated amines.

Other suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous if the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations is in the range from 5 to 25% by weight from 10 to 20% by weight is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to contain conventional complexing agents, for example those selected from the group consisting of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethylenaminopentaacetic acid. acid (DPTA) and its anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions to keep them low or to do without them entirely. In any case, a content of approximately 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparations, of such complexing agents should preferably not be exceeded.

An optionally desired oil component of the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations - for example in the form of cleaning emulsions - in the sense of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl palate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil component can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic see and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil component is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyl dodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethyl hexyl cocoate, C ₂ .i5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of rat Cι ₂ -i ₅ alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea-, mixtures of Cι ₂ _ι ₅ alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12th ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageously used in the sense of the present invention.

The oil component can furthermore advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The oil component is also advantageously selected from the group of the phospholipids. The phospholipids are phosphoric acid esters of aeylated glycerols. Of paramount importance The phosphatidylcholines are, for example, the lecithins, which are distinguished by the general structure

distinguish, where R and R "typically represent unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.

Cleaning preparations according to the invention are advantageously in the form of gels and contain one or more gel formers or hydrocolloids.

"Hydrocolloid" is the technological short name for the more correct term "hydrophilic colloid". Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that are largely linear in shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that enable secondary and main valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. They are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, the common feature of which is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked. The hydrophilic groups can be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows: NH ₂ - COOH - COO ^"' M ⁺ - NR ₂

1

NH-R O -so ₃ ^" M ⁺ (CH ₂ ) _n

II

OH - NH-C-NH ₂ -pol ^" M ²⁺ SO ₃ ^"

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be divided as follows: organic, natural compounds, such as agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth,

Gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum,

Starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, organic, modified natural substances such as B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and the like, organic, fully synthetic compounds such. B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, inorganic compounds, such as. B. polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas.

Hydrocolloids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers, which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH ₂ COONa. Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also known as cellulose gum.

For the purposes of the present invention, preference is also given to xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 * 10 ⁶ to 24 * 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain with β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name for the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain with β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane. Xanthan is obtained in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90% on the carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The work-up takes place after killing the culture by precipitation with z. B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.

An advantageous gelling agent in the sense of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar to agar extract from north atlantic red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata), which is one of the florides.

The term carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%. Carrageenan, which is very easily soluble in warm water; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. There are three main components in carrageenan: The gel-forming κ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1,3 and 1,4 positions (Agar, on the other hand, contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L-galactose). The non-gelling λ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues and the like. Easily soluble in cold water. The i-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other types of carrageenan are also designated with Greek letters: α, ß, γ, μ, v, ξ, π, ω, χ. The type of cations present (K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Na ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.

Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention. Polyacrylates are compounds of the general structural formula

whose molecular weight can be between approximately 400,000 and more than 4,000,000. Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of the BF Goodrich Company). In particular, the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:

R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.

According to the invention, particular preference is given to acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, which are available from the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984.

Also advantageous are copolymers of Cιo- ₃ o-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

Compounds which have the INCI name “Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylic Crosspolymer” are advantageous. Particularly advantageous are those available from B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2.

The total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen to be less than 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the content of one or more polyacrylates in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsion is in the range from 0.5 to 2% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight. -% is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form.

In addition to the aforementioned substances, the compositions according to the invention optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, refatting agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickening agents, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glyein, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-camosin, L-car- nosin and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, choleste- ryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homo- cysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. Citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their Derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyro phenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention ( Salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the emulsions is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

The following examples, in which washing preparations for hair and body care are described, are intended to explain the compositions according to the invention, but without the intention of restricting the invention to these examples. The payment- Values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Example 1: shower gel

Example 3: Gel-like preparation

Examples 5-7: Pearlescent conditioner shampoo

Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 0.5 sodium laureth sulfate 9.0 9.0 9.0 cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 pearlescent 2.0 2.0 2.0 IDS 1.0, 2.5, 3.8

Preservative, perfume,

Thickener, pH adjustment and

Solution brokers q.s. q.s. q.s.

Water, VES (fully desalinated) ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0

The pH is adjusted to 6.

Examples 8-10: clear conditioner shampoo

8 9 10

Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 0.5

Sodium laureth sulfate 9.0 9.0 9.0

Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5

IDS 2.5 3.0 5.0

Preservative, perfume, thickener, pH adjustment and

Solution brokers q.s. q.s. q.s.

Water, VES ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0

The pH is adjusted to 6.

Examples 11-13: clear light shampoo with volume effect

11 12 13

Sodium laureth sulfate 10.0 10.0 10.0

Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5

IDS 0.8 2.5 4.0

Preservative, perfume,

Thickener, pH adjustment and

Solution brokers q.s. q.s. q.s.

Water, VES ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 The pH is adjusted to 5.5.

Examples 14 + 15: soaps

The basic soap noodles are dosed with the color slurry and the other components into a conventional soap mixer (screw mixer with perforated sieve), homogenized by repeated mixing, discharged via an extruder, cut and processed into pieces in the usual way.

Example 16: Syndet

The basic soap noodles are dosed with the other components in a conventional soap mixer (screw mixer with perforated sieve), homogenized by repeated mixing, discharged via an extruder, cut and processed into pieces in the usual way

The IDS used is tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, a solid from Bayer with an active content of approx. 60% based on the free acid.

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations containing

(a) an effective amount of one or more surfactants and

(b) an effective amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts.

2. Use a combination of

(a) an effective amount of one or more surfactants and

(b) an effective amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts for the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations.

3. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the total amount of iminodisuccinic acid and / or its salts in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations from the range 0.1 - 25.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 - 15, 0% by weight is selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.

4. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they are in the form of gels.

5. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they are in the form of liquid dosage forms.

6. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they are in the form of solid soap or syndet pieces.

7. Cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant or surfactants are selected from the group which is formed from sodium acylglutamate, myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate , dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium MEA sulphosuccinate, sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA and TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium and sodium Cι ₂ -ι ₃ pareth sulfate, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate, benzalkonium chloride, Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultain, sodium acyl lamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate, cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA, lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and decoglycoside.