DE10213019A1 - Use of extracts from the olive tree as an antidandruff agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of extracts from the olive tree as an antidandruff agent is proposed. Extracts from the olive tree, in particular from the leaves of the olive tree and / or from the waste water from olive oil production, have an antimicrobial action against yeasts, which cause the formation of dandruff on the scalp.

Description

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to the use of extracts of the olive tree as an antidandruff agent.

State of the art

The renewal of the skin layers on the hairy scalp leads to a disruption of the sebum and Sweat secretion to an adhesion of skin particles, which then in larger aggregates than "Dandruff" stand out. This unpleasant scaling of parts of the horny layer of the skin is caused by a number of pathogenic yeasts are triggered and can be more severe with an excruciating Itching.

The treatment of the disorder is through active ingredients such as selenium compounds, pyrithione salts or Glucocorticoids performed. (see S. Shuster in Br. J. Dermatol., 111, 235 (1984) and Cosmet. Toil., 103: 87 (1988).

Unfortunately, these active ingredients have relatively strong side effects and are not among the good ones compatible ingredients. Therefore, in the German patent DE 195 34 370 C1 as more compatible Active substances against dandruff used cationic chitosans.

The object of the present invention results from the fact that there is still a need for good effective and yet skin-friendly active ingredients, which is also as simple as possible Allow formulation in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to the use of extracts of the olive tree as Anti-dandruff agents.

Surprisingly, it was found that extracts from the olive tree, in particular from the Leaves of the olive tree and / or from the wastewater of olive oil production, a microbicidal effect against yeasts and mold, which contribute significantly to the formation of dandruff. The inhibition of these microorganisms leads to a reduction in the formation of dandruff. The Plant extracts from the olive tree are also characterized by a high dermatological Tolerance out. They can be easily processed in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations and do not leave a sticky feel on the scalp after use, including styling is not adversely affected.

Extracts of the olive tree

The extracts to be used according to the invention are prepared by customary methods of Extraction. Regarding the suitable conventional extraction methods such as the maceration, the Remaceration, digestion, movement maceration, vertebrae extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid liquid extraction under continuous reflux, which in a Soxhlet extractor is carried out, which is familiar to the person skilled in the art and in principle all applicable are exemplary of Hager's Handbook of Pharmaceutical Practice, (5th Edition, Vol. 2, p. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New-York 1991). As starting material fresh or dried parts of the olive tree can be used, but usually from leaves that are mechanically shredded before extraction. Here are suitable all grinding methods known to the person skilled in the art, for example the crushing with a Called mortar.

Water, organic can preferably be used as the solvent for carrying out the extractions Solvents or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low molecular weight alcohols, hydrocarbons, ketones, esters or halogenated hydrocarbons with more or less high water content (distilled or undistilled), preferably aqueous, alcoholic solutions with a temperature greater than or equal to 20 ° C are used. Especially extraction with water, methanol, ethanol, hexane, cyclohexane, pentane, acetone is preferred, Propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, trichloromethane and mixtures thereof. The extraction is usually carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 20 to 85 ° C, in particular either at the boiling point of the solvent used or at room temperature. In a possible embodiment, the extraction takes place under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid the Oxidation of the ingredients of the extract. The extraction times depend on the person skilled in the art of the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio Solvent to raw material u. a. set. After extraction, the crude extracts obtained optionally further conventional steps, such as purification, concentration and / or Undergo discoloration. If desired, the extracts so produced can, for example a selective separation of individual undesirable ingredients. The extraction can be done to any desired level of extraction, but is usually to exhaustion carried out. The present invention includes the discovery that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be selected depending on the desired application. If if desired, the extracts can then be spray or freeze dried, for example be subjected.

The amount of extracts used in the preparations mentioned depends on the type of Applications of the extracts and according to the concentration of the individual ingredients. The total amount of Olive leaf extract, which is contained in the preparations according to the invention, is in the Rule 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight on the final preparation, with the proviso that the quantities indicated with water and if necessary, add further auxiliaries and additives to 100% by weight.

Olive tree leaf extracts are preferably used with regard to their main ingredient Oleuropein are standardized. They contain 1 to 40% by weight, preferably 5 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 10 to 25 wt .-% and especially 18 to 22 wt .-% oleuropein based on the Dry extract.

Extracts from the wastewater of olive tree production are made by drying the water preferably by spray drying after the addition of auxiliaries such as mannitol or sodium caseinate manufactured. They are based on a content of polyphenols, preferably hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol set, this is at least 0.5 wt .-%, preferably at least 1 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 2% by weight of polyphenol based on the dry extract.

Active substance in the sense of the invention relates to the proportion of substances and auxiliary and Additives contained in the preparations, with the exception of the additional one added Water.

Anti-dandruff preparations

Another object of the invention are antidandruff preparations containing the extracts of the olive tree, preferably from the leaves of the olive tree and / or from the waste water of the Olive oil production, and at least one substance selected from the group consisting of Selenium compounds, imidazoles, pyrithione salts, glucocorticoids, ketoconazole, resorcinol, Salicylic acid, and cationic chitosan.

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4- trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4- Acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} - piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, Sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyhexylate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with Hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein Undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione Magnesium sulfate in question.

Cationic chitosan is preferably used as another mild active ingredient.

chitosan

Chitosan belongs to the group of hydrocolloids. From a chemical point of view, these are usually partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weights, which contain the following - idealized - monomer unit:

In contrast to most hydrocolloids, which are negatively charged in the range of biological pH values , chitosan is a group of cationic compounds under these conditions positively charged chitosan can interact with oppositely charged surfaces and is therefore used in cosmetic hair and body care products, but also as a thickener in amphoteric / cationic surfactant mixtures used. Chitin is used to make chitosan, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are used as cheap raw materials in large quantities To be available. The chitin is usually first deproteinized by adding bases, demineralized by adding mineral acids and finally by adding strong bases deacetylated, whereby the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum. The Amounts used can range from 0.01 to 3, preferably 0.05 to 1 and in particular 0.1 to 0.5% by weight. based on the means.

Industrial applicability

The present invention also relates to the use of the olive tree extracts for Manufacture of anti-dandruff preparations.

Common anti-dandruff preparations contain - based on the preparation - for example 0.01 to 15 wt .-% extracts from the leaves of the olive tree and / or from the wastewater of the Olive oil production and 0 to 3% by weight of cationic chitosan, preferably containing them 0.05 to 5 wt .-% extracts from the leaves of the olive tree and / or from the wastewater of the Olive oil production and 0.05 to 1% by weight of cationic chitosan, and particularly preferred 0.1 to 3 wt .-% extracts from the leaves of the olive tree and / or from the wastewater of the Olive oil production and 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of cationic chitosan.

The anti-dandruff preparations can be in the form of shampoos, cures or solutions further auxiliaries and additives mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, consistency enhancers, Thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, other biogenic agents, Film formers, swelling agents, antioxidants, hydrotropes, preservatives, solubilizers, perfume oils, Contain dyes and the like.

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be present, the proportion of which is usually around 1 to 70, is preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic Surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, Glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, Glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, Fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, Sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, Fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, Acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (in particular vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. Unless the anionic surfactants Containing polyglycol ether chains, these can be a conventional one, but preferably a narrow one Show homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are Fatty alcohol polyglycol ether, alkylphenol polyglycol ether, fatty acid polyglycol ester, fatty acid amide polyglycol ether, Fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, if appropriate partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, Protein hydrolysates (especially vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, Sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants are polyglycol ether chains contain, these can be a conventional, but preferably a restricted Show homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as for example dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized Fettsäuretrialkanolaminestersalze. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are Alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and Sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. H. are particularly skin-friendly surfactants Fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, Fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, Ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkyl amido betaines, amphoacetals and / or Protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -C ₄ come as oil bodies, for example ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, lsostearylmyristat, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, Oieyloleat, Oleylbehenat, oleyl, behenyl myristate, behenyl, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl behenate and erucyl. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₂₂ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ - C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of Ce-C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as. B. Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol® CC); Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 G atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical Dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as. B. as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexane.

emulsifiers

• - Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe sowie Alkylamine mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest;
• - Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alk(en)ylrest und deren ethoxylierte Analoga;
• - Anlagerungsprodukte von 1 bis 15 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• - Anlagerungsprodukte von 15 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• - Partialester von Glycerin und/oder Sorbitan mit ungesättigten, linearen oder gesättigten, verzweigten Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und/oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren mit 3 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie deren Addukte mit 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid;
• - Partialester von Polyglycerin (durchschnittlicher Eigenkondensationsgrad 2 bis 8), Polyethylenglycol (Molekulargewicht 400 bis 5000), Trimethylolpropan, Pentaerythrit, Zuckeralkoholen (z. B. Sorbit), Alkylglucosiden (z. B. Methylglucosid, Butylglucosid, Laurylglucosid) sowie Polyglucosiden (z. B. Cellulose) mit gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und/oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren mit 3 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie deren Addukte mit 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid;
• - Mischester aus Pentaerythrit, Fettsäuren, Citronensäure und Fettalkohol und/oder Mischester von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, Methylglucose und Polyolen, vorzugsweise Glycerin oder Polyglycerin;
• - Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphate sowie Mono-, Di- und/oder Tri-PEG-alkylphosphate und deren Salze;
• - Wollwachsalkohole;
• - Polysiloxan-Polyalkyl-Polyether-Copolymere bzw. entsprechende Derivate;
• - Block-Copolymere z. B. Polyethylenglycol-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate;
• - Polymeremulgatoren, z. B. Pemulen-Typen (TR-1,TR-2) von Goodrich;
• - Polyalkylenglycole sowie
• - Glycerincarbonat.

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• - Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• - Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;
• - Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• - Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
• - Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides B. cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol;
• - Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• - wool wax alcohols;
• - Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• - Block copolymers e.g. B. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
• - polymer emulsifiers, e.g. B. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
• - Polyalkylene glycols as well
• - glycerine carbonate.

Ethylene Oxide

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the average degree of alkoxylation of which is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoplycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art known in the art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or Oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the Glycosidrestes applies that both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue on the glycosidic Fatty alcohol is bound, as well as oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on the usual homolog distribution for such technical products.

partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, Hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, Oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid moglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, Linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceuide, Erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, Citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical Mixtures that are subordinate to the manufacturing process still have small amounts of triglyceride can contain. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles are also suitable Ethylene oxide to the partial glycerides mentioned.

sorbitan

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, Sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, Sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, Sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquicinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, Sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, Sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesqui-tartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, Sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, Sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide are also suitable the sorbitan esters mentioned.

polyglycerol

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of others suitable polyol esters are the mono-, optionally reacted with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, Di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, Tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like.

Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid.

Amophothere and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acylsarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. H. solid or liquid vegetable or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids than waxes u. a. natural waxes such as B. candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, Cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, Beeswax, Shellac Wax, Walrat, Lanolin (wool wax), Bürzelfett, Ceresin, Ozokerit (Erdwachs), Petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as B. Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to the fats come as additives fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids are also possible. Under the label Those skilled in the art understand lecithins those glycerophospholipids which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, Form phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore also in the professional world often as phosphatidylcholine (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, also known as phosphatidic acids and derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3- represent phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerin (glycerol phosphates), which are generally among the Fat should be counted. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, specifically ethylene glycol; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially oleic; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances like for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, in total have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids like Stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 Carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 Carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

The main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or Hydroxy fatty acids into consideration. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or is preferred Fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), Polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, Carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, also higher molecular weight Polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Seppic Sepigel types; Salcare types by Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. As special Bentonites, such as B. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), in which it is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate is. Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of Fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and Ammonium chloride.

superfatting

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and Fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or Zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. Legs quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol is, quaternized, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products from Polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, Polyethyleneimine. cationic silicone polymers, such as. B. amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and Dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with Dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as. B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Examples of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and crosslinked with polyols, acrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / Acrylate copolymers, Octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized Cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified silicone compounds that are both liquid and resinous at room temperature can be present. Simethicones, which are mixtures of, are also suitable Dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated Silicates.

Other biogenic agents

Other biogenic active ingredients include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, Tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucans, Retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, Understand pseudoceramides, essential oils, other plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized Chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) are used.

hydrotropes

• - Glycerin;
• - Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycol, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Hexylenglycol sowie Polyethylenglycole mit einem durchschnittlichen Molekulargewicht von 100 bis 1000 Dalton;
• - technische Oligoglyceringemische mit einem Eigenkondensationsgrad von 1,5 bis 10 wie etwa technische Diglyceringemische mit einem Diglyceringehalt von 40 bis 50 Gew.-%;
• - Methyolverbindungen, wie insbesondere Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit;
• - Niedrigalkylglucoside, insbesondere solche mit 1 bis 8 Kohlenstoffen im Alkylrest, wie beispielsweise Methyl- und Butylglucosid;
• - Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Sorbit oder Mannit,
• - Zucker mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose;
• - Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin;
• - Dialkoholamine, wie Diethanolamin oder 2-Amino-1,3-propandiol.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerin;
• - Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons;
• technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• - Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, Pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. natural Fragrance substances are extracts from flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), Fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, Calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, Lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and Balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Furthermore come animal Raw materials in question, such as civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic Fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, Benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate and Benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes z. B. the linear Alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone, α-isomethyl ionone and Methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, Phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and Balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances that work together create an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, mostly as Aroma components are used as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, Lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, Galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, Citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, Allylamylglycolat, Cyclovertal, Lavandinöl, Muscatel Sage Oil, β-Damascone, Geraniumöl Bourbon, Cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertoffx Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, Phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in Mixtures used.

The flavors include, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, Eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like in question.

dyes

Suitable dyes are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes be used. Examples are Kochillerot A (Cl. 16255), Patentblau V (C.I.42051), Indigotin (C.I.73015), chlorophyllin (C.I.75810), quinoline yellow (C.I.47005), titanium dioxide (C.I.77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.I. 69800) and madder varnish (C.I.58000). Luminol can also be used as the luminescent dye his. These dyes are usually obtained in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight on the entire mixture.

Examples

Leaves of the olive tree (Olea europaea) were collected, dried, ground and passed through a 55-60% Ethanol / water mixture extracted at 60 ° C for 4 hours. The eluate was dried ground and sieved and adjusted to a content of approximately 20% by weight oleuropein.

To determine the antimicrobial effectiveness on microorganisms that promote dandruff Skin and scalp were subjected to an agar diffusion test.

agar diffusion test test organisms

Malassezia (M.) furfur DSM 6171 1.9 × 10 ⁸ CFU / ml

Manufacture of test germ suspensions (yeast and mold)

The test germs were subcultured on Sabouraud agar HLT (Merck, Art. 18364). Using a swab So many colonies were homogenized in NaCl peptone buffer that the turbidity was the McFarland standard Corresponded to 1.0.

sample preparation

A test concentration of 5% by weight of olive tree leaf extract (Herbalia®Olive - Cognis Iberia SL, Poligono San Vicente, 08755 Castellbisbal, Barcelona (Spain)) was obtained by weighing in 0.5 g of dry extract and dissolving to 10 ml with 15% by volume. Ethanol (Merck, Art. 100971) discontinued. Controls K1 test leaves unvaccinated
K2 test papers + 10 resp. 20 µl 15 vol% ethanol

incubation

3 test plates were created for each batch. The agar plates were incubated at 30 ° C for 72 h.

Test procedure

The test germs were homogenized 2% with the appropriate test medium (see below). 15 ml of it were poured into petri dishes.

PIT medium, consisting of malt agar Merck Art. 5398, Ochsengalle 3756, Tween 40822185 and Monoolein Fluka Art. 49960.

After the plates had solidified and dried, 5 sterile test plates (6 mm in diameter, BioMerieux, Art. 54991) designed (3 × sample, 2 × control).

Two batches were carried out per sample: batch 1 with 10 μl, batch 2 with 20 μl.

After incubation, the inhibition zone diameters [mm] were measured. Results Table 1 Antimicrobial activity of olive tree leaf extract

With a batch size of 20 µl, yeasts and molds are extracted from the olive tree leaf extract clearly inhibited. The results show that in particular microorganisms that are characteristic of the formation of dandruff, effective through olive tree leaf extract be inhibited.

Table 2 below contains formulation examples with olive tree leaf extract. Table 2 Anti-dandruff shampoo (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)

Claims (8)

1. Use of extracts from the olive tree as an antidandruff agent. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that extracts from the leaves of the olive tree and / or from the wastewater of olive oil production. 3. Use according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that the Extracts used in concentrations of 0.01 to 15 wt .-%. 4. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Extracts contain at least 1 wt .-% oleuropein. 5. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the Extracts contain at least 1 wt .-% polyphenols. 6. Use of extracts from the olive tree to inhibit aerobic and / or anaerobic germs and / or for the inhibition of yeast and mold of the microflora on the skin and scalp. 7. Antidandruff preparations containing extracts from the leaves of the olive tree and / or selected from the wastewater of olive oil production and at least one substance from the group formed by selenium compounds, imidazoles, pyrithione salts, Glucocorticoids, ketoconazole, resorcinol, salicylic acid, and cationic chitosan. 8. Anti-dandruff preparations containing extracts from the leaves of the olive tree and / or from the wastewater of olive oil production and cationic chitosan.