DE102005030460A1 - Agent for the treatment of hair or skin containing an extract of plants belonging to the family Oleaceae - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an agent for the treatment of hair or skin, containing at least one extract from plants belonging to the family of the Oleaceae. The invention further relates to the use of one or more such extracts for the treatment of the hair or the skin.

Description

The The present invention relates to an agent for treating the hair or skin containing at least an extract of plants, belonging to the Oleaceae family. Furthermore, the concerns The invention relates to the use of one or more such extracts for Treatment of hair or skin.

The Oleaceae (olive tree plants) are a medium sized, almost worldwide distributed family, with (depending on the demarcation) about 20-30 genera and about 400-700 species. They are one of the basal ones Groups within the derived order Lamiales (= Scrophulariales). Most Oleaceae are trees or shrubs, although the largest genus, Jasminum, also a variety of spreading to windy forms includes. To the economically most important representatives of the Oleaceae heard the real olive tree, or also olive tree, Olea europaea.

Depending on Distribution area flower olive trees from the end of April to the beginning of June. The vierzähligen blooms consist of four Kronblättern and four sepals, the stamens and the Surrounded by pistils and stand on panicles that carry between 10 and 40 flowers. The tree is about six weeks due to drought or lack of nutrients before flowering Stressed, the yield decreases because the number of flowers decreases will and blossoms do not come to fruit. Most varieties are self-pollinating, being cross-pollination usually increases the yield. However, some varieties rely on cross-pollination and need a genetically different copy for pollination. The Blossom is over the Wind dusted. The olive tree is an evergreen Plant, that is, he does not lose his foliage at any time of the year. The little leaves are on the top gray-green and silvery shiny at the bottom and gray colored. They are narrow and run pointedly forward (lanzettenar tig). At the bottom they have small hairs, so-called star hairs or star-shaped Scaly hairs that protect the tree from dehydration by she out of the stomata Trap escaping water again and add to the sheet again.

• • Ökonomisch bedeutsam ist vor allem die Frucht, die Olive, die weiterverarbeitet werden kann und als Lebensmittel genutzt wird. Direkt vom Baum ist die Olive jedoch wegen ihrer Bitterkeit kaum genießbar. Sie wird in eine Salzlake eingelegt, die ihr die Bitterstoffe entzieht, in der mediterranen Küche wird sie häufig in Brot, Ragouts, Salaten und Saucen verwendet.
• • Ebenso wird aus ihr das Olivenöl gepresst, das gesündeste bekannte Speiseöl. Es wird zum Braten und Kochen und auch in der Kosmetik verwendet. Industriell werden die Oliven für das Öl entweder von Hand gepflückt oder mit der Maschine herabgeschüttelt, gehackt, mit Wasser gemischt und hydraulisch gepresst, teils (je nach Zweck) auch mit chemischen Lösungsmitteln oder thermischen Verfahren extrahiert. Top-Qualitäten für die Küche hingegen werden mit schonenderen Verfahren gewonnen, vorzugsweise dem Tropf-Verfahren, bei dem nur das Eigengewicht der Früchte ohne weiteren Druck die Frucht presst. Anschließend wird das Öl vom Wasser in der Zentrifuge getrennt.
• • Wegen seines Holzes, das zu Möbeln oder Gebrauchgegenständen weiterverarbeitet wird.
• • Als medizinische Pflanze, speziell wegen seiner Blätter, die einen beruhigenden und schlaffördernden Effekt haben und das Immunsystem stärken sowie den Cholesterinspiegel senken. Das Öl ist gesund wegen des hohen Anteils an einfach ungesättigten Fettsäuren und wirkt sich positiv auf das Herzkreislaufsystem und den Fettstoffwechsel aus und verringert die Gefahr von Diabetes oder Krebs.

From a fruit after fertilization the fruit is formed: olive. It is a core fruit with a hard core surrounded by soft pulp. The color of the unripe olives is green, that of the ripe black or violet / brown. The most productive is the tree after about 20 years. The average composition of an olive is: water 50%, oil 22%, sugar 19.1%, cellulose 5.8%, proteins 1.6%. The olive is a Mediterranean stone fruit. It is raw because of their bitterness not edible, but after repeated immersion in water, in which the bitter substances are flushed out, edible. Black olives are fully matured green (olive) olives. The olive tree is used in several ways:

• • Economically important is above all the fruit, the olive, which can be further processed and used as food. Directly from the tree, the olive is barely edible because of its bitterness. It is put into a brine that removes the bitter substances, and is often used in Mediterranean cuisine in bread, ragouts, salads and sauces.
• • Likewise, olive oil is pressed from it, the healthiest known edible oil. It is used for frying and cooking and also in cosmetics. Industrially, the olives for the oil are either picked by hand or shaken down with the machine, chopped, mixed with water and hydraulically pressed, partly (depending on the purpose) also extracted with chemical solvents or thermal processes. On the other hand, top qualities for the kitchen are obtained with more gentle methods, preferably the drip method, in which only the weight of the fruit is pressed without further pressure on the fruit. Then the oil is separated from the water in the centrifuge.
• • Because of its wood, which is processed into furniture or utensils.
• • As a medicinal plant, especially because of its leaves, which have a soothing and sleep-inducing effect, strengthening the immune system and lowering cholesterol levels. The oil is healthy because of the high content of monounsaturated fatty acids and has a positive effect on the cardiovascular system and lipid metabolism and reduces the risk of diabetes or cancer.

The Human skin with its appendages is a very complex one constructed organ, which consists of a variety of different cell types consists. Every living cell of this organ is capable of signals their inner and outer environment, to react. These reactions of the cells are regulated by an orderly Regulation is implemented at the gene and protein levels, so that the metabolism cells of the skin and your appendages not static but is very dynamic. The reactions of the skin and / or its appendages on changes the environment but not as reactions of isolated single cells become. Rather, each cell is in a complex communication network involved. This network includes e.g. the communication between Cells of the epidermis and cells of the dermis. At the communication between the cells of the skin and / or their appendages signaling molecules such as. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF) etc. involved.

Of the Aging process is a fundamental biological process that can be found in almost all living organisms. Accordingly Human skin is also affected by this phenomenon. The aging of the skin presents itself as a progressive process that leads to a loss of skin homeostasis leads. It is influenced by endogenous and exogenous factors. While the endogenous aspects as "genetic controlled program ", are for the exogenous factors environmental influences such as UV light responsible.

The Skin aged differs in different ways from more youthful Skin. These are not just external visible changes, Effects of aging are at the cellular level, molecular genetic level and protein level. It has various biological Characteristics, as emerges from biopsied examination material (US Pat. No. 6,630,516).

On Cell level raises skin aging by reducing it the metabolic activity and by reducing epidermal and dermal renewal rates by 30-50%. Histologically there is a flattening of the basement membrane (dermal-epidermal junction), resulting in a deteriorated nutrient transfer flows into the epidermis. Stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis are thinner in old age, connected with a decrease and structural change the components of the extracellular Matrix. The number of epidermal Langerhans cells and mast cells sinks, resulting in a higher one Sensitivity contributes. The aging skin is characterized by a reduced sebum production and a reduced sweating ability.

The change this morphometric parameter accompanies with age of changes biochemical and molecular biological parameters in the skin. exemplary be called enzyme activities, associated with the remodeling of the extracellular matrix the dermis are visible. They rise to double in old age their activity at. This effect is u.a. on an increased expression of collagenase attributed at the molecular biological level and as the cause of the changes the extracellular To look at the matrix. He could collected by an increased production of connective tissue material become. Indeed but one observes a decline the production of connective tissue material in the group with the oldest Subjects by more than 50%. The regression connective tissue in old age is thus not counteracted.

Alles these changes in the skin structure and skin physiology lead to a dry, wrinkled and limp, partially hyperpigmented appearance.

Of the human organism is constantly exposed to oxidative processes. Endogenous are natural metabolic processes in everyone Cell an important source of oxidatively active substances. mitochondria, but also enzymatic processes produce reactive oxygen species (ROS), such as superoxide, hydroperoxide and Hydroxyl radicals. Exogenous environmental factors such as smoke, smog, UV radiation, but also the diet a decisive cause of oxidative stress. Against this Protects sources the organism through a series of systemic antioxidants. Sometimes he produces them himself, sometimes they have to be included as essential vitamins with the food. The Protect antioxidants Macromolecules (structural proteins, Lipid membranes, DNA) before damage or destruction by reactive oxygen species.

in the Unstressed organism has a fixed balance between produced oxidants and protective Antioxidants. Under certain conditions, this balance can be however disturbed become (smoke, UV radiation). An organ, a cell depleted of antioxidants, the oxidative processes gain the upper hand and damage macromolecules.

photoaging is one of the known effects of such an imbalance between Oxidants and antioxidants in human skin.

The Adenosine triphasphate (ATP) is a key molecule of the energy balance living cells, as it is the source of cellular responses. These Need energy the skin and its appendages for biochemical syntheses and Transport processes, so that metabolic processes and cellular Optimally maintaining and renewing structures, e.g. during repair processes or in the hair cycle.

Within a cell ATP is produced in the mitochandria. As a result of the electron transport on the inner membrane superoxide radicals, which are converted by dismutation to peroxides and in the further course can react to hydroxyl radicals. In the course of a cell's life, radicals are constantly being produced which, by their reactivity, damage proteins and nucleic acids of the mitochondria and thus impair their function themselves. The performance of mitochondria in the generation of energy in old age therefore decreases significantly.

It is known from the fruits olive oil obtained from olive trees in cosmetic products.

So far However, the provision and use of one is not known well tolerated Extract of leaves of plants belonging to the family Oleaceae, which is suitable antioxidant Characteristics, stimulation of ATP production in keratinocytes and dermal Papilla cells with simultaneous protection against oxidative damage, and advancement To combine collagen synthesis, and thus an important Cause of contaminated skin or aging skin to combat and energy production to stimulate in the hair root.

The The present invention therefore relates to an agent for the treatment of Hair or skin containing an extract of plants that belong to the family of Oleaceae.

Preferably are the plants that belong to the family of Oleaceae selected below Plants of the genera Abeliophyllum, Chionanthus, Comoranthus, Dimetra, Fontanesia, Forestiera, Forsythia, Fraxinus, Haenianthus, Hesperelaea, Jasminum, Ligustrum, Menodora, Myxopyrum, Nestegis, Noronhia, Notelaea, Nyctanthes, Olea, Osmanthus, Phillyrea, Picconia, Priogymnanihus, Schrebera and syringa, especially among plants of the genus Olea.

Preferred plants are the plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae selected from plants of the species or subspecies Abeliophyllum distichum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. eburneum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. lilacinum, Chionanthus filiformis, Chionanthus ramiflorus, Chionanthus retusus, Chionanthus virginicus, Comoranthus madagascariensis, Comoranthus minor, Dimetra craibiana, Fontanesia phillyreoides, Fontanesia phillyreoides subsp. forestia acuminata, forestiera eggersiana, forestiera neomexicana, forestiera segregata, forestiera segregata var. pinetorum, forsythia europaea, forsythia giraldiana, forsythia japonica, forsythia japonica var. saxatilis, forsythia nakaii, forsythia ovata, forsythia suspensa, forsythia viridissima, forsythia viridissima var koreana, forsythia x intermedia, forsythia sp. Fraxinus americana, Fraxinus angustifolia, Fraxinus anomala, Fraxinus biltmoreana, Fraxinus chinensis, Fraxinus chinensis var. Rhynchophylla, Fraxinus cuspidata, Fraxinus cuspidata var. Macropetala, Fraxinus dipetala, Fraxinus excelsior, Fraxinus excelsior var. Diversifolia, Fraxinus greggii, Fraxinus latifolia , Fraxinus ongicuspis, Fraxinus mandshurica, Fraxinus nigra, Fraxinus ornus, Fraxinus oxyphylla, Fraxinus pallisae, Fraxinus pennsylvanica, Fraxinus pennsylvanica var. Aucubaefalia, Fraxinus pennsylvanica var. Subintegerrima, Fraxinus platypoda, Fraxinus quadrangulata, Fraxinus rynchophylla, Fraxinus syriaca, Fraxinus texensis, Fraxinus dimino, Fraxinus xanthoxytoides var. dimorpha, Haenianthus incrassatus, Haenianthus salicifolius, Haenianthus salicifolius var. obovatus, Hesperelaea palmeri, Jasminum abyssinicum, Jasminum attenuatum, Jasminum elegans, Jasminum floribundum, Jasminum fluminense, Jasminum fruticans, Jasminu m. humile, jasmine lanceolarium, jasmine leratii jasmine mesnyi, jasminum multiflorum, jasminum nervosum, jasmine nitidum, jasmine nudiflorum, jasmine odoratissimum, jasmine officinale, jasmine polyanthum, jasmine sinense, jasmine suavissimum, ligustrum acutissimum, ligustrum compactum, ligustrum ibota, ligustrum japonicum, Ligustrum massalongianum, Ligustrum obtusifolium, Ligustrum ovalifolium, Ligustrum sempervirens, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum vulgare, Menodora africana, Menodora integrifolia, Menodora scabra, Myxopyrum nervosum, Myxopyrum smilacifolium, Myxopyrum smilacifolium var. Confertum, Nestegis apetala, Nestegis cunninghamii, Nestegis lanceolata, Nestegis sandwicensis Noronhia emarginata, Notetaea Iongifolia, Notetaea microcarpa, Notetaea punctata, Nyctanthes aculeata, Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, Olea brachiata, Olea capensis, Olea capensis subsp. macrocarpa, Olea cerasiformis, Olea europaea, Olea europaea subsp. cerasiformis, Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata, Olea europaea subsp. europaea, Olea europaea subsp. guanchica, Olea europaea subsp. laperrinei, Olea europaea subsp. maroccana, Olea lancea, Olea paniculata, Osmanthus americanus, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus heterophyllus, Osmanthus insularis, Osmanthus rigidus, Osmanthus sp. Reeves 12, Phillyrea angustifolia, Phillyrea latifolia, Phillyrea media, Picconia excelsa, Priogymnanthus apertus, Priogymnanthus hasslerianus, Schrebera alata, Schrebera mazoensis, Syringa amurensis, Syringa emodi, Syringa julianae, Syringa komarowii, Syringa meyeri, Syringa microphylla, Syringa microphylla x Syringa meyeri , Syringa oblata, Syringa patula, Syringa pekinensis, Syringa pinnatifotia, Syringa pubescens, Syringa reflexa, Syringa reticulata, Syringa ti gerstedtii, Syringa villosa, Syringa vulgarii, Syringa wolfii and Syringa yunnanensis, in particular among plants of the species or subspecies Olea brachiata, Olea capensis, Olea capensis subsp. macrocarpa, Olea cerasiformis, Olea europaea, Olea europaea subsp. cerasiformis, Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata, Olea europaea subsp. europaea, Olea europaea subsp. guanchica, Olea europaea subsp. laperrinei, Olea europaea subsp. maroccana, Olea lancea, Olea paniculata and especially preferred among plants of the species Olea europaea.

Especially preferred is the extract of plants belonging to the family Oleaceae belong, from the leaves obtained from the plants, in particular by an extraction process, which is described in EP-B-0 730 830, which is hereby in full Scope is referred to.

All particularly preferably the agent of the invention an extract that is high in antioxidants, in particular to oleuropein.

Preferably the content of oleuropein in the extract is in the range of 10 to 30% by weight, in particular 15 to 28% by weight, particularly preferably 18 to 26% by weight. Such an extract is for example from the Emil Flachsmann AG, Rütiwisstrasse, 8820 Wädenswil, Switzerland, http://www.flachsmann.ch, under the article number 0085943 available.

Particularly preferred composition of the invention contains further means of promoting collagen synthesis, particularly Matrixyl ^TM and ^TM Matrixyl 3000 Matrixyl ^™ and Matrixyl ^TM 3000, available, for example, by the company Sederma, are mixtures of modified peptides which are derived from the so-called Matrikinen. Matrikines are peptide fragments of up to 20 amino acids resulting from the proteolysis of matrix proteins such as collagen or elastin. These fragments act as autocrine and paracrine messengers and affect cell proliferation and connective tissue neoplasm. The peptide combinations of Matrixyl ^TM and Matrixyl ^TM 3000 lead to increased collagen synthesis in in vitro studies (in the case of Matrixyl ^TM 3000 + 258% collagen type I). In vivo, both peptide combinations show a reduction in wrinkles both in depth and number. In vitro tests (http://www.thatgo.de/aktivstoffe.phg?id=5) showed that the enhancement of collagen I synthesis with Matrixyl ^{® is} three times greater than with vitamin C; and at collagen IV over 50% larger.

The inventive agent may be further active ingredients, in particular L-carnitine and / or creatine contain.

advantageously, can by the broad spectrum of action of the extract from Olea europaea with only one extract affects various effects of aging become.

The antioxidant properties of the extract protect the skin from oxidative Environmental influences.

The Stimulation of collagen synthesis leads to an increased structure connective tissue, the structure of which decreases with age, thus promoting the firmness of the skin.

By the stimulation of ATP production preserves the skin and its appendages the energy they need to build new structures, for example.

Of the Extract from Olea europaea has antioxidant properties the formation of hydroxy radicals on. Compared to superoxides, he has better Properties as the water-soluble Standard substance Vitamin C.

Of the Extract from Olea europaea has only a very low cytotoxicity.

The Treatment of the hair or the skin with the agent according to the invention In particular, the purpose is to target effects that are selected under vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or reinforcement hair growth, hair thickening, hair loss and treatment Influence on keratin synthesis, maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment pathological conditions the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the Skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, Melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma, skin sarcoma.

in this connection is in particular the influence of keratin synthesis, as hair keratin is an important Play role in hair growth, they are as cellular structural proteins on building hair and nails involved. So far, 16 genes of the human hair keratin family have been identified identified (hHa1, hHa2, hHa3-I, hHa3-II, hHa4, hHa5, hHa6, hHa7, hHa8, hHb1, hHb2, hHb3, hHb4, hHb5, hHb6, K6irs). The keratin production is especially coupled to the growth phase of the hair (Anagen), in the regression phase (catagen) there is a significant decrease Keratin production. In addition, the hair keratins also play a role in various genetic diseases, such as Monilethrix. Monilethrix leads, due to pure point mutation in the keratin genes hHb1 and hHb6 to an irregular, brittle hair structure. About that there is a disturbed one Anchoring the hair shaft in the follicle. Because the hair structure essentially depends on the composition of hair keratins by influencing the composition of these specific Proteins taken at the biological level affect the hair structure become.

By the treatment of head hair with an agent according to the invention for the treatment of the hair or the skin, for example a hair tonic with appropriate formulation, the amount of ATP in the treated Follicles significantly compared to a placebo formulation elevated become. The treatment with an agent according to the invention in a rinse-off Formulation leads also to a significant increase in the ATP content in plucked Hair follicles. This will be the biologically active part of the hair significantly more ATP as an energy source for biochemical syntheses and transport processes to disposal posed, allowing metabolic processes and cellular structures optimally maintained and renewed.

The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise protein hydrolysates, preferably cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolytes are quaternized amino acids and their mixtures to understand. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and cited: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropylt Rimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrinium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurydimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen , Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin , Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Qua ternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Even though the agent of the invention in principle can remain on the hair, the agent is preferred rinsed after an exposure time of 10 seconds to 60 hours. This rinse can be done with pure water or a regular shampoo. Exposure times from 1 to 15 minutes have proven sufficient in most cases.

The composition according to the invention may additionally contain in addition a further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances, as well as mixtures of these active substances ,

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, Isodesmosin, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

The physiologically compatible Salts of the invention preferred Active substances, the acid groups contain and can form salts, are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, Zinc and manganese salts. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce tissue repair processes via the release of growth factors, eg collagen synthesis, or are able to sequence them To bind Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-ß (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexytdecylester (eg Caimosensine from Sederma), carnosine (.beta.-Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro. Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component The tri-peptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation, and analogs of Gly-His-Lys can be used According to the invention, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable for the substitution of Gly.The preferred amino acids according to the invention which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. B. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine Lys is particularly preferably replaced by Arg, Orn, or citrulline Another preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (IN-Cl designation: tripeptides-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, the z. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As available (from Pentapharm under the name SYN ^® -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val Tripepti de-2), tripeptides-4 (eg ATPeptides, available via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N-elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides selected from rigine and rigine-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, especially the particularly according to the invention preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, the Z. B. available under the name Eyeliss from Sederma, but also a part of the product Matrixyl 3000 by Sederma represents. The Rigin analogues include those in which the four amino acids rearranged and / or in which Rigin substituted a maximum of two amino acids are, for. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably has min least one of the amino acids the sequence is a Pro or Arg, and more preferably this includes Tetrapeptide both Pro and Arg, their order and Position may vary. The substituting amino acids can from every amino acid, which is defined in the fall to be selected. Especially preferred Rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa, Xbb and Xcc are the same or different amino acids from each other and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids, which can substitute Gly, Xbb selected is made of Gln and the amino acids, who can substitute Gln, Xcc selected is Pro or Arg and the amino acids that substitute Pro and Arg can.

The preferred amino acids, which can replace Gly, include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids, can replace the Gln, include a side chain with an amino group that is neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids, can replace the Arg, include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is at pH 6 mostly charged, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

When Rigin analogs according to the invention are Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred.

ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides that contain at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain included, for. B. β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Farther ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid a side chain with an amino group which at neutral pH (pH 6-7) mostly uncharged, e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-Hydroxyproline, Citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid with a side chain with a nitrogen atom, which at pH 6 predominantly loaded present, z. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid can ALAMCAT tetrapeptides any amino acid enthaften; however, the fourth amino acid is also preferred the three aforementioned groups selected.

Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Callasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI ), Myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala -Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, melanostatine-DM from Vinci ence), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g. Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Callasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7) Hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vin cience), hexapeptide-10 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience), and hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred optional amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistin from exsymol).

Particularly according to the invention preferred is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as for example in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from the company Sederma is available.

Independent of the exact course of treatment has proven to be advantageous the agent of the invention at a temperature of 20 to 55 ° C, in particular from 35 to 40 ° C, apply.

Regarding the type, according to the agent of the invention Applied to the hair, there are no fundamental restrictions.

The agent according to the invention particularly preferably comprises further agents for altering or nuancing the color of the hair of the head: apart from the hair-bleaching agents which cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of natural hair dyes, essentially three types of hair dye are used in the field of hair coloring significant:
For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or under coupling with one or more Kuppferkomponenten the actual dyes.

For temporary dyeings become common dyeing or tinting agent used as dyeing Component component so-called direct pullers. This is it look for dye molecules, which grow directly on the hair and no oxidative process to training need the color. Belongs to these dyes for example, that from ancient times to the coloring of body and hairs known henna. These dyes are against shampooing usually much more sensitive than oxidative stains, so that then much more quickly a much undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs.

Finally has in younger Time another dyeing process size Attention found. In this process, precursors of the natural Hair dye melanin applied to the hair; these form then in the context of oxidative processes in the hair natural analog dyes. Such a process with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline as dye precursor has been described in EP-B1-530 229. In, in particular multiple, Use of agents with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline Is it possible, To give people with graying hair the natural hair color. The coloration can be done with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant, so that on no further oxidizing agents must be used. For persons with originally Medium-blond to brown hair, indoline can be the sole dye precursor be used.

The The composition of the usable dyeing or toning agent is subject to none principal restrictions.

• • Oxidationsfarbstoffvorpradukte vom Entwickler- und Kuppler-Typ,
• • natürliche und synthetische direktziehende Farbstoffe und
• • Vorstufen naturanaloger Farbstoffe, wie Indol- und Indolin-Derivate,

sowie Mischungen von Vertretern einer oder mehrerer dieser Gruppen eingesetzt werden.As a dye (precursor) e can

• Developer and coupler type oxidation dye prepolymers,
• Natural and synthetic direct dyes and
• Precursors of nature-analogous dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives,

and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups.

As developer-type oxidation dye precursors are usually primary aromatic amines having another, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, Diaminopy ridinderivate, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6- Tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminapyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2 , 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-amino-phe nol, bis (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol , Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2 propanol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives EP 0 740 741 or WO 94/08970 such. B. 4,5-diamino-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

• – m-Aminophenol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 5-(3-Hydroxypropylamino)-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-Dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-Trifluoroacetylamino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-(Diethylamino)-phenol, N- Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-Dihydroxy-5-(methylamino)-benzol, 3-(Ethylamino)-4-methylphenol und 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol,
• – o-Aminophenol und dessen Derivate,
• – m-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-Bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 1,3-Bis-(2,4-diaminophenyl)-propan, 2,6-Bis-(2-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzol und 1-Amino-3-bis(2'-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzol,
• – o-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 3,4-Diaminobenzoesäure und 2,3-Diamino-1-methylbenzol,
• – Di-beziehungsweise Trihydroxybenzolderivate wie beispielsweise Resorcin, Resorcinmonomethylether, 2-Methylresorcin, 5-Methylresorcin, 2,5-Dimethylresorcin, 2-Chlorresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, Pyrogallol und 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol,
• – Pyridinderivate wie beispielsweise 2,6-Dihydroxypyridin, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 2-Amino-5-chlor-3-hydroxypyridin, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylpyridin, 2,6-Diaminopyridin, 2,3-Diamino-6-methoxypyridin und 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin,
• – Naphthalinderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Naphthol, 2-Methyl-1-naphthol, 2-Hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-Hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1,6-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1,8-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin und 2,3-Dihydroxynaphthalin,
• – Morpholinderivate wie beispielsweise 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholin und 6-Amino-benzomorpholin,
• – Chinoxalinderivate wie beispielsweise 6-Methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin,
• – Pyrazolderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-on,
• – Indolderivate wie beispielsweise 4-Hydroxyindol, 6-Hydroxyindol und 7-Hydroxyindol,
• – Methylendioxybenzolderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Hydroxy-3,4-methylendioxybenzol, 1-Amino-3,4-methylendioxybenzol und 1-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylendioxybenzol,

As the coupler type oxidation dye precursors, m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used. Examples of such coupler components are

• M-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2 , 6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2 ' -Hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3- (ethylamino) -4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol,
• O-aminophenol and its derivatives,
• - m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1 , 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene,
• O-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene,
• Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, resorcinol, resorcinomonomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
• Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3, 4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
• Naphthalene derivatives such as, for example, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,
• Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
• Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
• Pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
• Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
• Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene,

Especially suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Substantive Dyes are common Nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds and 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, Hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

In the naturally occurring direct dyes are, for example Henna red, Henna neutral, Henna black, Chamomile flower, Sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, Sedre and alcano root included.

It is not required that the Oxidation dye precursors or direct dyes each represent uniform connections. Rather, in the hair dye, due to the production process for the individual dyes, be contained in minor amounts still other components as far as these are not the dyeing result adversely affect or for other reasons, eg. B. toxicological, must be excluded.

Regarding the in the hair dyeing and tinting agents applicable dyes is still expressly on the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, Chapter 7 (pp. 248-250; direct dyes) and chapter 8, pages 264-267; Oxidation dye precursors) appeared as volume 7 of the series "Dermatology" (ed. Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, as well as the "European Inventory of cosmetic raw materials ", published by the European Community, available in disk form by the Federal Association of German Industrial and Trading Companies for medicines, health food and personal care products e.V., Mannheim.

When Precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are, for example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts. Prefers Such indoles and indolines are used, the at least one Hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring, exhibit. These groups can bear further substituents, for. B. in the form of an etherification or Esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Especially noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and in particular 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

The Indoline and indole derivatives in the context of the inventive method used colorants both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable Salts with inorganic or organic acids, e.g. The hydrochlorides, the sulfates and hydrobromides used.

at the use of dye precursors of the indoline or indole type For example, it may be preferred to combine them with at least one amino acid and / or to use at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, in particular α-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids. Under the α-aminocarboxylic acids are arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are particularly preferred. A most preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also as hydrochloride used.

hair dyes, especially if the coloration oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, usually become weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11, set. For this purpose, the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually Alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are preferred within this group. Also, the use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as Alkalizing agent is possible.

If the formation of the actual hair dyes takes place in the context of an oxidative process, conventional oxidizing agents, in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine or sodium borate can be used. However, oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred. Furthermore, it is possible to carry out the oxidation by means of enzymes, the enzymes being used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the effect of a small amount of oxidizing agents present. Thus, the enzymes (enzyme class 1: oxidoreductases) can transfer electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agents) to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, the procedure is called, the effect of small amounts (eg, 1% and less, based on the total agent) to amplify hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.

Conveniently, the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then immediately before dyeing the hair mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors. The ent derher de ready to use hair dye preparation should preferably a pH in the range of 6 to 10 have. Particularly preferred the application of hair dye in a slightly alkaline environment. The application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 ° C, preferably at the temperature of the scalp, lie. After an exposure time from about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes is the hair dye by rinsing of which to be colored Hair removed. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated, if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, z. B. a dyeing shampoo, was used.

Especially in hard-to-dye Hair can prepare with the dye precursors without prior Mixing with the oxidation component applied to the hair become. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes then - if necessary after an intermediate rinse - the oxidation component applied. After another exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and if desired shampooed. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding Medium adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to one second variant is first a Air oxidation, with the applied agent being preferred has a pH of 7 to 10. At the subsequent accelerated Post-oxidation may be the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions as Oxidizing agent may be preferred.

Furthermore, the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

When Fabrication of the agent according to the invention are, for example Creams, lotions, solutions, waters, Emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (Called phase inversion emulsions, called PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols suitable. These are usually aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic Basis formulated. The alcoholic component is lower Alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol can in the watery alcoholic Base in a weight ratio from 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures, which up to 50 wt .-%, in particular up to 25 wt .-%, based on alcohol to the mixture alcohol / water, can according to the invention preferred Be fundamentals. The pH of these preparations can in principle at values of 2-11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, values of 3 to 5 are particularly preferred. To adjustment This pH can be virtually any acid or cosmetic acid Base can be used. Usually be called acids Consumed acids. Be under enjoyment of acids such acids understood that under the usual Food intake and positive effects to have the human organism. Acetic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and Gluconic. In the context of the invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, Triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

Next the invention mandatory required extract from plants belonging to the family Oleaceae belong, the agent can in principle all others, the expert for such cosmetic agent known components.

• – nichtionogene Tenside wie beispielsweise Alkylphenolpolyglycolether, Fettsäurepolyglycolester, Fettsäureamidpolyglycolether, Fettaminpolyglycolether, alkoxylierte Triglyceride, wie insbesondere ethoxyliertes Rizinusöl, Alk(en)yloligoglucoside, Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide, Polyolfettsäureester, Zuckerester, Sorbitanester und Polysorbate. Sofern die nichtionischen Tenside Polyglycoletherketten enthalten, können sie eine konventionelle oder eingeengte Homologenverteilung aufweisen.
• – anionische Tenside, insbesondere Alkylsulfate, Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate und Ethercarbonsäuren mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und bis zu 12 Glykolethergruppen im Molekül, Seifen sowie Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und
• – dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethyl-ester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – zwitterionische Tenside, insbesondere die sogenannten Betaine wie die N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammanium-glycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyl-dimethylammonium-glycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxytmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat,
• – ampholytische Tenside wie beispielsweise N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkytaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkyl-aminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copoly mere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere und Polysiloxane,
• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylapektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline, sowie Silikonöle,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – symmetrische und unsymmetrische, lineare und verzweigte Dialkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C- Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether und Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether,
• – Fettalkohole, insbesondere lineare und/oder gesättigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, und Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 6 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – konditionierende Wirkstoffe wie Paraffinöle, pflanzliche Öle, z. B. Sonnenblumenöl, Orangenöl, Mandelöl, Weizenkeimöl und Pfirsichkernöl sowie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat,
• – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Lichtschutzmittel, insbesondere derivatisierte Benzophenone, Zimtsäure-Derivate und Triazine,
• – weitere Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Reduktionsmittel wie z. B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Nonionic surfactants such as, for example, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk (en) yl oligoglucosides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and polysorbates. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution.
• - anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfonates steinsäuremono- and
• Dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Zwitterionic surfactants, in particular the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammanium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and -Alkyl-3-carboxytmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate,
• Ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• Nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylapectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• - symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,
• Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• - Conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil, as well as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• - light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,
• - Other substances for adjusting the pH, such as α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants.

The inventive agent can also Containing surfactants. These can be both anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well to act cationic surfactants.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, for example in a shampoo, a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants used. However, in a hair tonic, the skilled person can also largely or Completely refrain from the use of surfactants.

It has in individual cases proved to be advantageous, the surfactants from amphoteric or nonionic surfactants select.

When Anionic surfactants are all suitable for use in compositions according to the invention on the human body suitable anionic surface-active Substances. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 10 up to 22 C atoms. additionally can in the molecule Glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga sowie
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, and
• - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ¹ O- (Z) _x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R ¹ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R ¹ . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R ¹

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups.

When Sugar component Z can any mono- or oligosaccharides are used. Usually Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, Galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, Gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The usable according to the invention Alkyl polyglycosides contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x 1.1 to 1.4.

In addition to their surfactant action, the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair. The expert is so in the event that one over the duration of Haarbehandlung beyond effect of the perfume oil on the hair is desired, preferably resort to this class of substance as a further ingredient of the preparations of the invention.

Also The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can be used according to the invention become. These homologs can an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 acylsarcosine.

According to the invention as cationic surfactants, especially those of the quaternary ammonium type, the esterquats and amidoamines used.

preferred quaternary Ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and Bromides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants are preferred 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native vegetable or animal raw materials, so that you substance mixtures obtained with different, depending on the raw material alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are used in the reaction of Fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

Regarding further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used expressly on the specialist manuals known to those skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, Basics and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

One Another object of the present invention is the use extracts from plants belonging to the Oleaceae family Vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, Activation of hair follicles, promotion or reinforcement hair growth, hair thickening, hair loss and treatment Influence on keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or advancement the homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment pathological conditions the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the Skin, such as eczema, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, Melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for revitalizing hair, stimulating energy metabolism in Hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of the Hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and influence Keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or advancement the homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment pathological conditions the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the Skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, Melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma, characterized that he an inventive agent on the hair or skin.

The explain the following examples the invention without, however, limiting it to:

description of the extract

at the extract of leaves Olea europaea is an ethanolic extract. In the specific case it is an extract of 80% ethanol, in a patented process (EP-B-0 730 830) of the company Flachsmann (Article number 0085943) was obtained. The patented process has a particularly gentle effect on antioxidants such as Oleuropein. Accordingly, the extract contains high amounts to oleuropein (18-26%).

Example 1:

Determination of the antioxidant Potentials opposite Hydroxyl radicals (liposome peroxidation):

When Measure of the antioxidant capacity Olea europaea extracts were determined for their ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation to prevent in liposomes. For this purpose, a 0.2 wt .-% liposomes Suspension made from soya lecithin in phosphate buffer. Lipid peroxidation was prepared by adding an iron (II) ascorbate complex (10mM Fe (II) SO4, 50 mM ascorbate). The incubation was at 37 ° C for 45 min. carried out. The end product of lipid peroxidation is malonaldehyde, which has a Color reaction with thiobarbituric acid quantified (photometric determination of the malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid complex at 532 nm). To determine the antioxidant capacity of the Olea europaea extract this was in different concentration before adding the Iron (II) ascorbate complex is added to the incubation mixture. determined was the concentration (in μg / ml), in which the lipid peroxidation is reduced by 50% (= LDL50) in the Comparison to the determination without addition of plant extract. That ever Lower the specified concentration LDL50, the higher the antioxidant capacity of the examined Olea europaea extract. As reference substances The antioxidants Lipochroman-6, Trolox, BHT, tocopherol served and methyl catechol.

Determination of the antioxidant Potentials opposite Superoxides (chemiluminescence, ACW)

The antioxidant potential opposite Superoxides are determined using the chemiluminescence methods and with a measuring device of the company Jenanalytics measured.

Principle:

• n.I.: nicht löslich in diesen Testsystem

The strength of chemiluminescence reaches its maximum V _max in an untreated aqueous sample after a fixed time t _min = t _untreated . The addition of antioxidants intercepts ROS formed by UV, so that luminol can not convert the energy into chemiluminescence until the antioxidant potential of the test substance has been exhausted. V _max is reached at a later time t _sample . In order to be able to compare the individual antioxidants with each other, the concentration c (μg / ml) is determined, which is needed to reach t _sample = 3 xt _min . The lower this concentration, the better the antioxidant potential of the substance. Table 1: Determination of the antioxidant potential, LDL50 [μg / ml] and ACW [ng / ml]

• nI: not soluble in this test system

Of the Extract from Olea europaea has antioxidant properties the formation of hydroxy radicals on. Compared to superoxides, it has slightly better Properties as the water-soluble Standard substance Vitamin C (Table 1)

Example 2:

collagen synthesis

Execution:

to Production of the dermis model were initially fibroblasts on a seeded from collagen, chitosan and glucosaminoglucan matrix. To 28 days Cultivation time of the fibroblasts was increased with systemic treatment began.

The Treatment was carried out by the test substances or the positive Control were added to the medium. Treatment was done every two days, i. three times within 6 days. additionally untreated cultures were carried.

methods:

collagen synthesis

The measurement method is based on the particularly high content of proline and hydroxyproline in collagen molecules and on the incorporation of radioactive 3H-proline during collagen synthesis by fibroblasts in the skin model. For the last 24 hours of culture, 5 μCi / ml of 3H-proline was added. At the end of the test, the collagen present in the matrix was specifically degraded by collagenase, the remainder of the protein precipitated and the incorporated activity measured in the supernatant (collagen) and precipitate (non-collagen proteins).

By determining the incorporated radioactivity in the collagen compared to the non-collagen proteins, the percentage of collagen in the total protein can be determined. Collagen [%] = DPM collagen DPM collagen + 5.4 X DPM non-collagen proteins

Of the Extract from Olea europaea enhanced the collagen synthesis of fibroblasts dose-dependent across from the untreated control to a maximum of 148%. In comparison to it induced the positive control vitamin C at a concentration of 44 μg / ml the collagen synthesis to 144%. The extract from Olea europaea thus shows a comparable biological effect. (Table 2)

Table 2: Influence of the test substances on the collagen synthesis of fibroblasts [% (sd)]

Example 3

Determination of cytotoxicity

Around to check to what extent the cell cultures by possible cytotoxic effects of the test substances were compromised, the vitality of the a dye test, the MTT test, checked.

Of the MTT-Test provides information about cell proliferation and cytotoxicity. In the test, the metabolic activity determined by living cells. The exact performance of the assay is described in J. Immunol. Methods 65, 55, 1983 (T. Mosmann) discloses what is explicitly stated here Reference is made. The tetrazolium salt 3- [4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl] -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MIT) is enzymatically reduced in living cells and transformed into a blue, water-insoluble Formazansalz converted. This formazan salt is extracted and quantified photometrically. The color intensity of the formazan salt solution can with the number of living cells or with the vitality of one Tissue in the examined sample are correlated.

Table 3: Vitality of cell cultures as a function of different concentrations of Olea europaea extract (% [standard deviation])

Out the available data can be an MTT50 value of about 2900 μg / ml determine. This value shows a very low cytotoxicity of Olea europaea extract (Table 3).

Example 4:

proof the stimulation of ATP synthesis in normal human epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) and dermal papilla cells by an extract according to the invention. The extract according to the invention was in vitro on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and on dermal papilla cells on its stimulating effect on the intracellular ATP synthesis tested.

ATP detection method

Of the intracellular ATP content is over measured bioluminometric measurements with a luciferase assay. For this, the cell cultures are disrupted by means of an extraction buffer and the cell lysate with a commercially available luciferase reagent added. The resulting bioluminescent light is using a luminescence meter and is directly proportional to the amount of ATP present in the lysate.

Experimental Procedure

Preparation of extract solutions for exam on the model

The Tests were diluted with solutions performed by different extracts.

to Preparation of the test solutions were the extracts with the culture of keratinocytes or dermal Papilla cells used nutrient medium solution (KGM broth Cell Systems or Chang D Medium from Irvine Scientific) dilute and homogenized. The test solutions contained the extracts in different concentrations.

Preparation of the normal human epidermal keratinocytes and incubation with the extract solutions

The Experiments were performed on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK P 135 from Cell Systems). These are primary keratinocytes. After culturing the cells in the KGM culture medium, the cells became in 96-well microtiter plates Sown at a density of about 2000 cells per well. After three days that became Culture medium exchanged for the various extract-containing test solutions.

In each series of experiments, untreated, ie extract-free, incubated cell cultures were carried and analyzed. The incubation of the primary keratinocytes with the individual test solutions was then carried out for 6 hours in a CO 2 incubator at a temperature of 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO 2. At the end of each incubation period, the ATP content of the cells was analyzed (see below). After 24 hours of incubation, the vitality (cell proliferation / metabolism) of the cultures was determined by means of the MTT test.

Carrying out the ATP measurements on keratinocytes

To In each incubation period, the control or test solutions removed from the keratinocytes by gentle washing. Subsequently were 60 μl of a Lysis buffer in each well (well) pipetted. The microtiter plates were then added for 5 minutes Room temperature shaken. The lysis buffer consisted of an aqueous solution of 10 mM TRIS (2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol), 1mM EDTA, 100MM NaCl, 5M M9C12 and 1% wt Nonidet P 40 (ethoxylated Fatty alcohol, Shell).

The ATP determinations were made using the ATPLite ™ -m assay (Packard). The test principle of this assay is based on the luciferase Photinus pyralis catalyzes a reaction in which in the presence of of ATP D-luciferin is converted into oxyluciferin. This reaction turns green emitted, which can be measured with a luminometer. That emitted Bioluminescent light is proportional to the amount of ATP present.

to Determination of the ATP content in keratinocytes, 50 ul of the cell lysate in a black Luminometer microtiter plate pipetted, with 50 ul luciferase reagent from the ATPLite ™ -m assay kit is added and after another 10 min incubation used in the dark in the luminometer, the occurring bioluminescence detected at room temperature.

The Calibration of the luminometer was carried out by bioluminescence measurements with ATP.

The standard solutions moved in the concentration range of 1.6-10-9 to 1.0-10 6 mol ATP / I. The equation of the calibration line became the calculation the ATP concentration in the cell lysates.

Preparation of the normal human dermal papilla cells, incubation with the extract solutions and execution the ATP measurement

to Determination of ATP activity in dermal papilla cells, these are obtained in a suitable manner their specific properties pre-cultured, as in DE10162814 and transferred to a 48 well cell culture dish. The Treatment with the olive leaf extract was for 6 hours against an untreated Control. Subsequently the cells were each containing 100 μl / well of one contained in the test kit Lysis buffer for 5 min on a shaker lysed. Thereafter, the cells were incubated for a further 5 min with each 100 ul / well with the supplied substrate solution on the shaker incubated and then transferred the reaction mixture into a black microtiter plate. To an incubation period of 10 min in the dark took place Measurement of luminescence.

Of the Extract from Olea europaea increased the ATP production of keratinocytes across from the untreated control by a maximum of 42%. (Table 4) The extract from Olea europaea increased the ATP production of dermal papilla cells across from the untreated control by a maximum of 37%. (Table 5)

Table 4: Influence of the test substances on the ATP production of keratinocytes in% (standard deviation)

Table 5: Influence of the test substances on the ATP production of dermal papilla cells in% (standard deviation)

Example 5:

Increase in keratin synthesis

The Hair structure is essentially more specific to the composition hair-specific structural proteins, the hair keratins. By influencing the composition of these specific proteins can affect the hair structure at the biological level become.

The Expression of various hair keratins in the organotypic model can be studied using a quantitative real-time PCR method become. To carry out the PCR is first with the help of the RNeasy Mini Kit of the company Qiagen the RNA from the organotypical Models isolated and transcribed by means of reverse transcription into cDNA. In the subsequent PCR reaction using gene-specific primers for each Hair keratins performed and which serves to amplify the gene segments sought is the formation of PCR products detected online via a fluorescent signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the formed PCR product. ever stronger the expression of a particular gene is the greater the amount of PCR product formed and the higher the fluorescence signal.

to Quantification of gene expression becomes the untreated control set equal to 1 and the expression of genes to be determined thereon related (x times Expression). There are values that are greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression the untreated control are classified as significant.

Formulierungsbeispiele: Beispiel 6: Haarspülung Olea-Extrakt 2,0 Eumulgin^® B2¹ 0,3 Cetyl/Stearylalkohol 3,3 Isopropylmyristat 0,5 Paraffinöl perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0,3 Dehyquart^®A-CA² 2,0 Gluadin WQ 0,2 Gluadin WLM 0,5 Pantolacton 0,5 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,5 Phenonip^®3 0,8 Wasser ad 100 PH = 7,0

• ¹ Cetylstearylalkohol + 20 EO (INCI-Bezeichnung: Ceteareth-20)(HENKEL)
• ² Trimethylhexadecylammoniumchlorid (ca. 25% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride)
• ³ Hydroxybenzoesäuremethylester-Hydroxybenzoesäureethylester-Hydroxybenzoesäurepropylester-Hydroxybenzoesäurebutylester-Phenoxyethanol-Gemisch (ca. 28% Aktivsubstanz; INCI-Bezeichnung: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben)(NIPA)

Beispiel 7: Haarspülung Olea-Extrakt 1,0 Eumulgin^® B2 0,3 Cetyl/Stearylalkohol 3,3 Isopropylmyristat 0,5 Paraffinöl perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0,3 Dehyquart^®L 80⁵ 2,0 Gluadin WQ 0,5 Gluadin WLM 0,2 Pantolacton 1,0 Subtilisin oder Papain 1,0 Citronensäure 0,4 Phenonip^® 0,8 Wasser ad 100 PH - 7,0

• ⁵ Bis(Gocoylethyl)-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium-methosulfat (ca. 76% Aktivsubstanz in Propylenglykol; INCI-Bezeichnung: Dicacoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfat, Propylene Glycol) (HENKEL)

Beispiel 8: Haarspülung Olea-Extrakt 2,0 Isopropylmyristat 0,50 Paraffinum Liquidum 0,50 Cetearyl Alcohol 2,5 Eumulgin B 2 * 0,40 Citronensäure 0,20 Propylparaben 0,20 Wasser, vollentsalzt ad 100 Phenoxyethanol, rein 0,30 Methylparaben 0,20 Dehyquart F 75 2,0

• * Eumulgin B 2 = Ceteareth-20

Beispiel 9: Haarkur (rinse off) Olea-Extrakt 4,0 Dehyquart^® F75⁷ 4,0 Cetyl/Stearylalkohol 4,0 Paraffmöl perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 1,5 Dehyquart^® A-CA 4,0 Salcare^®SC 96 0,5 Gluadin WQ 1,0 Gluadin WLM 1,0 Pantolacton 0,5 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,2 Citronensäure 0,15 Phenonip^® 0,8 Wasser ad 100 PH = 7,0

• ⁷ Fettalkohole-Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfatdialkylester-Gemisch (INCI-Bezeichnung: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol)(HENKEL)

Beispiel 10: Haarkur (rinse off) Olea-Extrakt, 2,0 Dehyquart^® L80 4,0 Cetyl/Stearylalkohol 6,0 Paraffmöl perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 2,0 Rewoquat^®W 75⁹ 2,0 Sepigel^®305 0,5 Gluadin WQ 0,2 Gluadin WLM 0,5 Pantolacton 0,5 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,5 Citronensäure 0,15 Phenonip^® 0,8 Wasser ad 100 PH = 7,0

• ⁹ I-Methyl-2nortalgalkyl-3-talgfettsäureamidoethylimidazolinium-methosulfat (ca. 75% Aktivsubstanz in Propylenglykol; INCI-Bezeichnung: Quaternium-27, Propylene Glycol) (WITCO)

Beispiel 11: Haarkur (auf dem Haar verbleibend) Olea-Extrakt 3,0 Dehyquart^® F75 0,3 Salcare^®SC 96 5,0 Dow Corning^®200 Fluid, 5 cSt.¹⁰ 1,5 Gafquat^®755N¹¹ 1,5 Biodocarb^{® 12} 0,8 Gluadin WQ 0,2 Gluadin WLM 0,5 Pantolacton 0,5 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,5 Parfumöl 0,25 Wasser ad 100 PH = 7,0

• ¹⁰ Polydimethylsiloxan (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone) (DOW CORNING)
• ¹¹ Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Vinylpyrrolidon-Copolymer, mit Diethylsulfat quaterniert (19% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-11) (GAF)
• ¹² 3-Iod-2-proinyl-n-butylcarbamat (INCI-Bezeichnung: Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) (MILKER & GRÜNING)

Beispiel 12: Haarkur (auf dem Haar verbleibend) Olea-Extrakt 3,0 Sepigel^®305 5,0 Dow Corning^®Q2-5220 5 cSt.¹³ 1,5 Genamin^®DSAC¹⁴ 0,3 Phenonip^® 0,8 Gluadin WQ 0,5 Gluadin WLM 0,8 Pantolacton 1,0 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,8 Parfümöl 0,25 Wasser ad 100 PH = 7,0

• ¹³ Silicon-Glykol-Copolymer (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone Copolyol) (DOW CORNING)
• ¹⁴ Dimethyldistearylammoniumchlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)

Beispiel 13: Haarkur Olea-Extrakt 2,0 Cetearyl Alcohol 5,00 Propylparaben 0,20 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 1,50 Dehyquart F 75 *3 1,50 Paraffinum Liquidum 1,00 Quaternium-87 in Propylenglycol 1,50 Isopropylmyristat 2,00 Cutina GMS* 1,00 Methylparaben 0,20 Wasser ad 100 Citronensäure 0,45 Dehyquart A CA *2 5,00 Rheocare CTH (E) 0,50 Polymer JR 400 0,20 Pantolacton 0,20 Nikotinsäureamid 0,10 Phenoxyethanol, rein 0,40 D-Panthenol 75% 0,20 Dow Corning 1403 Fluid 1,50 Parfum 0,20

• *1 Cutina GMS = Glyceryl Monostearate
• *2 Dehyquart A CA = Cetrimonium Chlorid
• *3 Dehyquart F 75 = Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate

Beispiel 14: Shampoo: Olea-Extrakt 1,5 LAURETHSULFAT 25% 40 CITRONENSÄURE 0,1 NATRIUMBENZOAT 0,5 DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE 6,0 SALICYLSÄURE 0,1 HYDROTRITICUM WQ 1,0 Gluadin WQ 0,2 Gluadin WLM 0,5 Pantolacton 0,5 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,2 CETIOL HE 0,5 PARFÜM 0,4 NACL 0,5 WASSER AD 100 Beispiel 15: Shampoo: Olea-Extrakt 2,0 LAURETHSULFAT 25%(ALKALISCHE VERDÜNNUNG) 25,0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULÄR 0,3 TIMIRON 0,5 NATRIUMBENZOAT 0,5 PANTHENOL 75 L 0,2 EUPERLAN PK 3000 8,0 PLANTACARE 818 UP 2,0 UVINUL MS40 1,0 SALICYLSAEURE 0,2 AJIDEW NL-50 2,0 CUTINA HR GEMAHLEN 0,5 CETIOL HE 1,0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULÄR 0,03 JAGUAR EXCEL 0,3 Gluadin WQ 0,2 Gluadin WLM 0,5 Pantolacton 0,5 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,5 NATRIUMCHLORID 0,3 WASSER ad 100 Beispiel 16: Shampoo: Olea-Extrakt 2,0 LAURETHSULFAT 25%(ALKALISCHE VERDÜNNUNG) 50 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULÄR 0,4 ARLYPON F 0,5 ANTIL 171 0,3 WEIZENPROTEINHYDROLYSAT KATIONISIERT 1,5 NATRIUMBENZOAT 0,5 EUPERLAN PK 3000 6,0 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 45% 5,0 SALICYLSAEURE 0,2 SILSOFT A-858 0,3 Gluadin WQ 1,0 Gluadin WLM 1,0 Pantolacton 0,5 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,2 CUTINA HR 0,2 CETIOL HE 1,0 WASSER ad 100 Beispiel 17: Shampoo: Olea-Extrakt 2,0 Vorl. Laurethsulf.25% alk.Ver. 40,00 Citronensäure 0,15 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 7,00 Na-benzoat 0,50 Salicylsäure 0,20 Parfum 0,15 Natriumchlorid 1,50 Wasser, vollentsalzt ad 100 Polymer JR 400 0,30 Beispiel 18: Haarstylinggel: Olea-Extrakt 2,5 ENTSALZTES WASSER ad 100 SYNTHALEN K 0,6 NEUTROL TE 0,5 GLYZERIN DAB 9, 86,5 8,00 ETHYLALKOHOL VERGÄLLT 96 VOL% FLS 30,00 Gluadin WQ 0,5 Gluadin WLM 0,5 Pantolacton 1,0 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,2 POLYETHYLENGLYKOL 2,00 PVP/VA W-635 6,50 CREMOPHOR RH 40 1,00 PARFÜM 0,50 PH = 7,0 Beispiel 19: Haarspray: Olea-Extrakt 2,0 AMPHOMER 3,00 LUVISKOL VA 37 16,00 AMP AMINO-METHYL-PROPANOL 100 0,60 ISOPROPYLMYRISTAT 0,12 Gluadin WQ 0,5 Gluadin WLM 0,5 Pantolacton 0,2 Subtilisin oder Papain 1,0 PARFÜM 0,20 ENTSALZTES WASSER ad 100 ETHYLALKOHOL VERGÄLLT 96 VOL% FLS 67,50 PH = 7,0 Beispiel 20: Haartonic: Olea-Extrakt 2,0 ENTSALZTES WASSER ad 100 PANTHENOL 75 0,1 Gluadin WQ 0,2 Gluadin WLM 0,5 Pantolacton 0,5 Subtilisin oder Papain 0,5 CARBOPOL 0,1 NEUTROL TE 0,10 ETHYLALKOHOL VERGÄLLT 96 VOL% 30,0 PH = 7,0 Beispiel 21: Haartonic: Olea-Extrakt 2, 0 D-Panthenol 75% 0,20 Allantoin 0,10 Parfum 0,25 Wasser, vollentsalzt ad 100 Cremophor A25* 0,200000 Ethanol 96% 35,00

• * Cremophor A25* = Ceteareth-25

To investigate keratin synthesis, organotypic models with different concentrations of leaf extract from Olea europea were systemically treated for 6 h and 24 h. The leaf extract from Olea europea increased the gene expression of hair keratins hHa3-I and hHa4 in the organotypic model compared to the untreated control after 24 hours of application by a maximum of 5.6. (Table 6) Table 6: Influence of Olea europea on hair keratin synthesis

Formulation Examples: Example 6: Hair Conditioner Olea extract 2.0 Eumulgin ^® B2 ¹ 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl 3.3 isopropyl 0.5 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3 Dehyquart® ^® A-CA ² 2.0 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.5 ^Phenonip®3 0.8 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

• ¹ cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (HENKEL)
• ² trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (about 25% active in water, INCI name: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride)
• ³ hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester hydroxybenzoate ethyl ester hydroxypropionate hydroxybenzoate-phenoxyethanol mixture (about 28% active ingredient, INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) (NIPA)

Example 7: Hair Conditioner Olea extract 1.0 Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl 3.3 isopropyl 0.5 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3 Dehyquart ^® L 80 ⁵ 2.0 Gluadin WQ 0.5 Gluadin WLM 0.2 pantolactone 1.0 Subtilisin or papain 1.0 citric acid 0.4 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100 PH - 7.0

• ⁵ bis (gocoylethyl) -hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium methosulfate (about 76% active ingredient in propylene glycol, INCI name: dicacoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, propylene glycol) (HENKEL)

Example 8: Hair Conditioner Olea extract 2.0 isopropyl 0.50 Paraffin Liquidum 0.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5 Eumulgin B 2 * 0.40 citric acid 0.20 Propylparaben 0.20 Water, demineralized ad 100 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.30 methylparaben 0.20 Dehyquart F 75 2.0

• * Eumulgin B 2 = Ceteareth-20

Example 9: Hair Conditioner (rinse off) Olea extract 4.0 Dehyquart ^® F75 ⁷ 4.0 Cetyl / stearyl 4.0 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 1.5 Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 4.0 Salcare ^® SC 96 0.5 Gluadin WQ 1.0 Gluadin WLM 1.0 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.2 citric acid 0.15 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

• ⁷ fatty alcohols-Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfatdialkylester mixture (INCI name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (HENKEL)

Example 10: Hair Conditioner (rinse off) Olea extract, 2.0 Dehyquart® ^® L80 4.0 Cetyl / stearyl 6.0 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 2.0 Rewoquat ^® W 75 ⁹ 2.0 Sepigel ^® 305 0.5 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.5 citric acid 0.15 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

• ⁹ I-Methyl-2nortalgalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate (about 75% active ingredient in propylene glycol, INCI name: Quaternium-27, propylene glycol) (WITCO)

Example 11: Conditioner (remaining on the hair) Olea extract 3.0 Dehyquart® ^® F75 0.3 Salcare ^® SC 96 5.0 Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid, 5 cSt. ¹⁰ 1.5 Gafquat ^® 755N ¹¹ 1.5 Biodocarb ^{® 12} 0.8 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.5 perfume oil 0.25 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

• ¹⁰ polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: dimethicone) (DOW CORNING)
• ¹¹ Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (19% active substance in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (GAF)
• ¹² 3-iodo-2-pro-nyl-n-butylcarbamate (INCI name: Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) (MILKER & GRÜNING)

Example 12: Conditioner (remaining on the hair) Olea extract 3.0 Sepigel ^® 305 5.0 Dow Corning ^® Q2-5220 5 cSt. ¹³ 1.5 Genamin ^® DSAC ¹⁴ 0.3 Phenonip ^® 0.8 Gluadin WQ 0.5 Gluadin WLM 0.8 pantolactone 1.0 Subtilisin or papain 0.8 perfume oil 0.25 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

• ¹³ Silicone glycol copolymer (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol) (DOW CORNING)
• ¹⁴ Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)

Example 13: Hair Conditioner Olea extract 2.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00 Propylparaben 0.20 stearamidopropyldimethylamines 1.50 Dehyquart F 75 * 3 1.50 Paraffin Liquidum 1.00 Quaternium-87 in propylene glycol 1.50 isopropyl 2.00 Cutina GMS * 1.00 methylparaben 0.20 water ad 100 citric acid 0.45 Dehyquart A CA * 2 5.00 Rheocare CTH (E) 0.50 Polymer JR 400 0.20 pantolactone 0.20 nicotinamide 0.10 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.40 D-panthenol 75% 0.20 Dow Corning 1403 Fluid 1.50 Perfume 0.20

• * 1 Cutina GMS = glyceryl monostearate
• * 2 Dehyquart A CA = cetrimonium chloride
• * 3 Dehyquart F 75 = distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate

Example 14: Shampoo: Olea extract 1.5 LAURETHSULFATE 25% 40 CITRIC ACID 0.1 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5 DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE 6.0 SALICYLIC 0.1 HYDROTRITICUM WQ 1.0 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.2 CETIOL HE 0.5 PERFUME 0.4 NACL 0.5 WATER AD 100 Example 15: Shampoo: Olea extract 2.0 LAURETHSULFATE 25% (ALKALINE THINNING) 25.0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.3 TIMIRON 0.5 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5 PANTHENOL 75 L 0.2 EUPERLAN PK 3000 8.0 PLANTACARE 818 UP 2.0 UVINUL MS40 1.0 salicylic acid 0.2 AJIDEW NL-50 2.0 CUTINA HR GROUNDED 0.5 CETIOL HE 1.0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.03 JAGUAR EXCEL 0.3 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.5 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.3 WATER ad 100 Example 16: Shampoo: Olea extract 2.0 LAURETHSULFATE 25% (ALKALINE THINNING) 50 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.4 ARLYPON F 0.5 ANTIL 171 0.3 WHEAT PROTEIN HYDROLYZATE CATIONIZED 1.5 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5 EUPERLAN PK 3000 6.0 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 45% 5.0 salicylic acid 0.2 SILSOFT A-858 0.3 Gluadin WQ 1.0 Gluadin WLM 1.0 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.2 CUTINA HR 0.2 CETIOL HE 1.0 WATER ad 100 Example 17: Shampoo: Olea extract 2.0 Preferences. Laurethsulf.25% alk.Ver. 40,00 citric acid 0.15 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 7.00 Na benzoate 0.50 salicylic acid 0.20 Perfume 0.15 sodium chloride 1.50 Water, demineralized ad 100 Polymer JR 400 0.30 Example 18: Hair Styling Gel: Olea extract 2.5 DISINTERED WATER ad 100 SYNTHALS K 0.6 NEUTROL TE 0.5 GLYCERIN DAB 9, 86.5 8.00 ETHYL ALCOHOL MILLS 96 VOL% FLS 30.00 Gluadin WQ 0.5 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 1.0 Subtilisin or papain 0.2 Polyethylene Glycol 2.00 PVP / VA W-635 6.50 CREMOPHOR RH 40 1.00 PERFUME 0.50 PH = 7.0 Example 19: Hairspray: Olea extract 2.0 AMPHOMER 3.00 LUVISKOL VA 37 16.00 AMP AMINO METHYL PROPANOL 100 0.60 isopropyl 0.12 Gluadin WQ 0.5 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.2 Subtilisin or papain 1.0 PERFUME 0.20 DISINTERED WATER ad 100 ETHYL ALCOHOL MILLS 96 VOL% FLS 67,50 PH = 7.0 Example 20: Hair Tonic: Olea extract 2.0 DISINTERED WATER ad 100 PANTHENOL 75 0.1 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.5 CARBOPOL 0.1 NEUTROL TE 0.10 ETHYL ALCOHOL MILLS 96 VOL% 30.0 PH = 7.0 Example 21: Hair Tonic: Olea extract 2, 0 D-panthenol 75% 0.20 allantoin 0.10 Perfume 0.25 Water, demineralized ad 100 Cremophor A25 * 0.200000 Ethanol 96% 35,00

• * Cremophor A25 * = Ceteareth-25

Example 22:

Example formulation hair tonic:

Recipe Verum:

• 30% ethanol (cosmetic)
• 2% liposomes PC (Lipoid SL80, Supplier Lipoid)
• 2% Olea extract (Supplier: Loncha)
• 66% water

Example formulation hair shampoo: Olea extract 2.0 LAURETHSULFATE 25% (ALKALINE THINNING) 25.0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.3 TIMIRON 0.5 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5 PANTHENOL 75 L 0.2 EUPERLAN PK 3000 8.0 PLANTACARE 818 UP 2.0 UVINUL MS40 1.0 salicylic acid 0.2 AJIDEW NL-50 2.0 CUTINA HR GROUNDED 0.5 CETIOL HE 1.0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.03 JAGUAR EXCEL 0.3 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.5 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.3 WATER ad 100

Example 23: a) Oil-in-water emulsions

b) water-in-oil emulsions

c) cleaning preparations

d. Water-in-silicone emulsions

All Data are in weight percent (w%).

Information about the in the substances used in the examples:

Gluadin WQ

• Cognis Germany GmbH,
• AQUA (WATER), LAURDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, ETHYLPARABLES, METHYLPARABES
• Protein hydrolyzates, wheat germ, (3- (dodecyldimethylammonio) -2-hydroxypropyl), chlorides
• about 30-35% salary

Gluadin WLM

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Wheat protein hydrolyzate in H2O
• INCI declaration [INCI] HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN
• Salary about 20-24%

Salcare SC 96

• Ciba
• INCI declaration [INCI] POLYQUATERNIUM-37, PROPYLENE GLYCOL Dicaprylate / dicaprate,
• Salary about 50

Cetiol HE

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Coconut monoglyceride ethoxylated (7 EO)
• INCI declaration [INCI] PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE

Sepigel 305

• Seppic (Interorgana)
• sINCI declaration [INCI] POLYACRYLAMIDE, C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN, LAU
• RETH-7
• Salary about 45-50%

Euperlan PK 3000

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• INCI declaration [INCI] GLYCOL DISTEARATE, GLYCERINE, LAURETH-4, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE

Plantacare 818 UP

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• C8-16 alkylpolyglucoside
• * NLP
• COCO-GLUCOSIDE, AQUA (WATER)

Ajidew NL 50

• Ajinomoto
• pyrrolidone Sodium salt
• Na-PCA
• SODIUM PCA

Uvinul MS 40

• BASF
• Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid * 2-BENZOPHENONE-4

Arlypon F

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Lauromacrogol JP 12 (Pharmacopoeia of Japan)
• * NLP
• C12-14 fatty alcohols ethoxylated (2.5 EO)
• LAURETH-2

Antil 171

• Goldschmidt (Degussa)
• Polyol fatty acid ester
• PEG-18 GLYCERYL OLEATE / COCOATE

Synthetic K

• Synthal KD (old)
• 3V Sigma
• polyacrylic acid
• CARBOMER

Cremophor RH 40

• BASF
• Perfume C 041
• Castor oil, hardened, ethoxylated (45 EO)
• PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL

Neutrol TE

• BASF
• Tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine * N, N, N ', N', - edetol
• TETRAHYDROXYPROPYL ETHYLENEDIAMINE

Claims (10)

Means for treating the hair or the skin, containing at least one extract of plants belonging to the family belong to the Oleaceae. Agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the plants, which belong to the family Oleaceae, are selected from plants of the Genera Abeliophyllum, Chionanthus, Comoranthus, Dimetra, Fontanesia, Forestiera, Forsythia, Fraxinus, Haenianthus, Hesperelaea, Jasminum, Ligustrum, Menodora, Myxopyrum, Nestegis, Noronhia, Notelaea, Nyctanthes, Olea, Osmanthus, Phillyrea, Picconia, Priogymnanthus, Schrebera and syringa, especially among plants of the genus Olea. Agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized that the Plants belonging to the Oleaceae family are selected from plants of the Species or subspecies Abeliophyllum distichum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. eburneum, Abeliophyllum distichum f. lilacinum, Chionanthus filiformis, Chionanthus ramiflorus, Chionanthus retusus, Chionanthus virginicus, Comoranthus madagascariensis, Comoranthus minor, Dimetra craibiana, Fontanesia phillyreoides, Fontanesia phillyreoides subsp. fortunei, Forestiera acuminata, Forestiera eggersiana, Forestiera neo-mexicana, Forestiera segregata, Forestiera segregata var. Pinetorum, Forsythia europaea, forsythia giraldiana, forsythia japonica, forsythia japonica var. saxatilis, Forsythia nakaii, Forsythia ovata, Forsythia suspensa, Forsythia viridissima, Forsythia viridissima var. Koreana, forsythia x intermedia, Forsythia sp. Reeves 11, Fraxinus americana, Fraxinus angustifolia, Fraxinus anomala, Fraxinus biltmoreana, Fraxinus chinensis, Fraxinus chinensis var. Rhynchophylla, Fraxinus cuspidata, Fraxinus cuspidata var. macropetala, Fraxinus dipetala, Fraxinus excelsior, Fraxinus excelsior var. Diversifolia, Fraxinus greggii, Fraxinus latifolia, Fraxinus ongicuspis, Fraxinus mandshurica, Fraxinus nigra, Fraxinus ornus, Fraxinus oxyphylla, Fraxinus pallisae, Fraxinus pennsylvanica, Fraxinus pennsylvanica var. aucubaefolia, Fraxinus pennsylva nica var. subintegerrima, Fraxinus platypoda, Fraxinus quadrangulata, Fraxinus rynchophylla, Fraxinus syriaca, Fraxinus texensis, Fraxinus tomentosa, Fraxinus velutina, Fraxinus xanthoxyloides, Fraxinus xanthoxyloides var. Dimorpha, Haenianthus incrassatus, Haenianthus salicifolius, Haenianthus salicifolius var. Obovatus, Hesperelaea palmeri, Jasminum abyssinicum, Jasminum attenuatum, Jasminum elegans, Jasminum floribundum, Jasminum fluminense, Jasminum fruticans, jasmine humate, jasmine lanceolarium, jasmine leratii, Jasminum mesnyi, Jasminum multiflorum, Jasminum nervosum, Jasminum nitidum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum odoratissimum, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum polyanthum, Jasminum sinense, Jasminum suavissimum, Ligustrum acutissimum, Ligustrum compactum, Ligustrum ibota, Ligustrum japonicum, Ligustrum massalongianum, Ligustrum obtusifolium, Ligustrum ovalifolium, Ligustrum sempervirens, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum vulgare, Menodora africana, Menodora integrifolia, Menodora scabra, Myxopyrum nervosum, Myxopyrum smilacifolium, myxopyrum smilacifolium var. Confertum, Nestegis apetala, Nestegis cunninghamii, Nestegis lanceolata, Nestegis sandwicensis, Noronhia emarginata, Notelaea Iongifolia, Notelaea microcarpa, Notelaea punctata, Nyctanthes aculeata, Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, Olea brachiata, Olea capensis, Olea capensis subsp. macrocarpa, Olea cerasiformis, Olea europaea, Olea europaea subsp. cerasiformis, Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata, Olea europaea subsp. europaea, Olea europaea subsp. guanchica, Olea europaea subsp. laperrinei, Olea europaea subsp. maroccana, Olea lancea, Olea paniculata, Osmanthus americanus, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus heterophyllus, Osmanthus insularis, Osmanthus rigidus, Osmanthus sp. Reeves 12, Phillyrea angustifolia, Phillyrea latifolia, Phillyrea media, Picconia excelsa, Priogymnanthus apertus, Priogymnanthus hasslerianus, Schrebera alata, Schrebera mazoensis, Syringa amurensis, Syringa emodi, Syringa julianae, Syringa Komarowii, Syringa meyeri, Syringa microphylla, Syringa microphylla Syringa meyeri, Syringa oblata, Syringa patula, Syringa pekinensis, Syringa pinnatifolia, Syringa pubescens, Syringa reflexa, Syringa reticulata, Syringa tigerstedtii, Syringa villosa, Syringa vulgarii, Syringa wolfii and Sy ringa yunnanensis, especially among plants of the species or subspecies Olea brachiata, Olea capensis, Olea capensis subsp. Macrocarpa, Olea cerasiformis, Olea europaea, Olea europaea subsp. cerasiformis, Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata, Olea europaea subsp. europaea, Olea europaea subsp. Guanchica, Olea europaea subsp. laperrinei, Olea europaea subsp. maroccana, Olea lancea, Olea paniculata and especially preferred among plants of the species Olea europaea. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract from plants belonging to the family of Oleaceae, is obtained from the leaves of the plants, in particular by a in EP-B-0 730 830 described extraction method. Agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it contains an extract of plants belonging to the family Oleaceae, the a high content of antioxidants, especially of oleuropein having. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the content to extract oleuropein in the extract from plants belonging to the family belong to the Oleaceae, in the range of 10 to 30% by weight, in particular 15 to 28% by weight, particularly preferably 18 to 26% by weight. Agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises means for promoting collagen synthesis, particularly Matrixyl ^®. Agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it additionally Means of change or nuancing the color of the hair of the head. Use of extracts from plants belonging to the family belong to the Oleaceae, in particular extracts according to the definitions in one of the claims 2 to 8, for the vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or reinforcement hair growth, hair thickening, hair loss and treatment Influence on keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment pathological conditions the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the Skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, Melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma. Procedure for revitalizing hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, advancement or reinforcement hair growth, hair thickening, hair loss and treatment Influence on keratin synthesis, hair conditioning, maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or treatment pathological conditions the hair follicle; Treatment of pathological conditions of the Skin, such as atopic dermatitis, sunburn, psoriasis, scleroderma, ichtyosis, atopic dermatitis, acne, seborrhoea, lupus erythematosus, rosacea, Melanoma, basalioma, skin carcinoma or skin sarcoma, characterized that he a means according to the definitions in one of the claims 2 to 8 on the hair or the skin applies.