DE102008059445A1 - Foaming emulsions with emulsifier combination - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic care emulsions which can be foamed using a manual pump dispenser and, in addition to at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, an emulsifier combination of (a) at least one W / O emulsifier having an HLB value of 4 to 6 and (b) at least one O / W emulsifier compound having an HLB value of 10 to 14, characterized in that both the W / O and the O / W emulsifier compound contain a poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester.

Description

The Invention relates to cosmetic foaming care emulsions, their use as skin care products as well as the use of the care emulsion in a manually operated foam dispenser.

State of the art and task

foaming Emulsions are known in the art in principle, but have These often unfavorable properties such as poor dispersibility or a dull skin sensation after use. Therefore surfactant-containing emulsions have recently been developed, thanks to a special pumping mechanism foamed with air become, and as a foam lighter and more evenly spread on the skin. In the further development of the foamable Emulsions were found, however, that the foam was not firm was enough and quickly broke, causing skin on the application leave a watery and unpleasant feeling has been.

To eliminate these disadvantages was in the EP 1 496 852 proposed to foam Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearates as emulsifiers with surfactants, oil bodies, sunscreen filters and water to a sunscreen emulsion contained in a manually operated pump dispenser.

Also These systems could, in particular for the purpose of a cosmetic skin care emulsion, in terms of foam quality and skin care properties are not satisfactory because of the resulting foam was not tight enough and showed a rapid drainage.

By using a specific polymer combination, the foam stability of the foaming emulsions according to EP 1 496 852 first be improved. Microscope images revealed that they were W / O / W / emulsions in which all three different W / O / W micelle types were present, with W / O / W micelle type C dominating the system. However, the presence of the different micellar structures resulted in an extremely broad particle size distribution, as a result of which the foam was still not sufficiently dense and resulted after application in a strongly sticky and dull skin sensation.

In addition, the treatment of dry skin requires an increased use of nourishing oils (emollients). The incorporation of nourishing and rich emollients into the emulsions according to EP 1 496 852 but led to a further destabilization of the foam.

task the present invention was therefore a cosmetic care emulsion, in particular an emulsion to be prepared by means of a manual foamable foam dispenser is foamable and a very dense, stable but light foam that makes you feel comfortable spread on the skin. Another requirement to the cosmetic care emulsion was in the distribution of the Foam and, after absorption, a moisturizing, nourishing, to leave a sliding skin feeling. Especially for dry and extremely dry skin, it was still important to add extra oils and incorporate rich emollients into the care emulsions, without the emulsion or foam stability thereby is impaired.

Surprised it has now been found that these properties can be achieved if a W / O emulsifier of a certain HLB value with a O / W emulsifier of a specific HLB value in a care emulsion, which is assembled in a manually operable foam dispenser is combined with each other.

Description of the invention

object The invention therefore cosmetic care emulsions according to claim 1. develop care emulsions according to the invention when frothing a particularly creamy, dense foam, which has a strongly retarded drainage. The foam has one light texture and can be spread very well on the skin. Due to the creaminess of the foam, the aforementioned disadvantages such as dullness and stickiness after absorbing the foam. Instead, the consumer already feels during the Distribution The improved care that develops after absorption of the foam in a moisture saturated, smooth and sliding skin feeling expresses.

One second object of the invention is a system consisting of a care emulsion according to the invention and a foam dispenser with a pumping mechanism for foaming with air.

• (a) mindestens einem W/O-Emulgator eines HLB-Werts von 4 bis 6 und
• (b) mindestens einem O/W-Emulgator-Compound eines HLB-Werts von 10 bis 14

in kosmetischen Pflegeemulsionen, die in einem manuell anwendbaren Schaumspender konfektioniert ist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sowohl der W/O- als auch das O/W-Emulgator-Compound einen Poly(12-hydroxystearinsäure)polyglycerinester enthalten.A third object of the invention is the use of an emulsifier combination

• (a) at least one W / O emulsifier having an HLB value of 4 to 6 and
• (b) at least one O / W emulsifier compound having an HLB value of 10 to 14

in cosmetic care emulsions, which is formulated in a manually applicable foam dispenser, characterized in that both the W / O and the O / W emulsifier compound comprise a poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester.

One fourth subject of the invention is the use of an inventive Care emulsion in a manually applicable foam dispenser for care of keratin fibers, especially the skin.

The Emulsifier selection was very careful, because it was the aforementioned Eliminate problems and improve known recipes. The Emulsifiers should optimally also have the nourishing properties contribute to the emulsions without negative interactions with other ingredients or skin intolerances.

The emulsifiers according to the invention are basically known compounds which are available from Cognis commercially, for example under the names "Dehymuls® ^® PGPH", "Dehymuls® ^® SBL" or "Eumulgin ^® VL 75".

• – Glycerin und Polyglycerin,
• – Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycole, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol,
• – Methyloylverbindungen, wie Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit,
• – Alkylololigoglucoside mit 1 bis 22, bevorzugt 1 bis 16, mehr bevorzugt 1 bis 8 und insbesondere 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest, wie Methyl- und Butylglucosid,
• – Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose,
• – Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin.

The polyol component of these emulsifiers has at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are:

• - glycerin and polyglycerol,
• Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycols, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
• Methyloyl compounds, such as trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol,
• Alkylol oligoglucosides having 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 16, more preferably 1 to 8 and in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside,
• Sugar alcohols containing from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, glucose or sucrose,
• - Aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Particularly preferred because of their excellent performance properties are reaction products based on polyglycerol and in particular the reaction products of poly-12-hydroxystearic acid with polyglycerols of the following homolog distribution: glycerin: 5 to 35, in particular 15 to 30 wt .-%, diglycerol: 15 to 40, in particular 20 to 32 wt .-%, triglycerol: 10 to 35, in particular 15 to 25 wt .-%, Tetraglycerol: 5 to 20, in particular 8 to 15 wt .-%, Penta Glycerin: From 2 to 10, in particular from 3 to 8,% by weight, oligoglycerine: ad 100% by weight.

A particularly preferred according to the invention W / O emulsifier is a poly (12-hydroxysterinsäure) polyglycerol ester, which is sold by the company Cognis under the trade designation "Dehymuls ^® PGPH" as W / O emulsifier. Dehymuls ^® PGPH has according to the manufacturer to have an HLB value of about. 5 It is in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.075 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 12 wt .-% and in particular of 0.15 to 10 wt .-% used.

Of the second mandatory emulsifier is an O / W emulsifier compound one HLB value of 10 to 14, which also the aforementioned poly (12-hydroxysterinsäure) polyglycerolester contains. This emulsifier is inventively as Compound of a poly (12-hydroxysteric acid) polyglycerol ester, which in itself is a W / O emulsifier with such an amount of nonionic O / W surfactant and a polyol that the total HLB value Compounds in a typical O / W emulsifiers range lies. The compound is in the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - in in an amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.75 to 7 wt .-% used.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₆ bis C₁₈-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Suitable nonionic O / W surfactants in the O / W emulsifier compound according to the invention are in particular alkylpolyglucosides of the general formula RO - (Z) _x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain a particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds. Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

When Sugar building block Z can be any mono- or oligosaccharides be used. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, Arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, Idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, Fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is special prefers. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkylpolyglykoside with x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particularly preferred are alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8.

One Very particularly preferred O / W surfactant according to the invention is Lauryl Glucoside.

When Polyol in the O / W emulsifier compound according to the invention In particular, polyols are more aliphatic, more saturated and unsaturated, branched and straight-chain C1-C12 alcohols with 2 to 8 hydroxy groups in the molecule in question. Especially suitable are glycerin, sorbitol, and propylene glycol - glycerol is particularly suitable.

One such compound having an HLB value of 12 is commercially available the name "Eumulgin VL 75" from the company Cognis offered and is inventively quite particularly preferred.

The combination of a W / O emulsifier and an O / W emulsifier can usually improve the stability of an emulsion, but these rules do not automatically apply to the care emulsions according to the invention which are in the form of W / O / W emulsions , In addition, in order to be foamable in a foam dispenser, the emulsions according to the invention also comprise surfactants, resulting in a completely new situation at the interfaces. Opposite the above-mentioned W / O / W emulsions based on Dehymul ^® PGPH as the sole emulsifier and the W / O / W emulsions, which the above-mentioned polymer combination was added to the foam and emulsion stabilization, have W according to the invention / O / W emulsions based on the specific emulsifier combination have the advantage of developing a much denser foam with improved sensory properties, better spreadability, and improved skin care benefits. The reason for these massive improvements lies in both the macroscopic and the microscopic properties of the care emulsion according to the invention.

Macroscopically, the emulsion of the invention after foaming shows a significantly improved foam stability in comparison to the foams mentioned above, since the bubble size is significantly lower. The foam is thus denser and is also perceived as denser. Microscopically, it is clear that between the emulsions (Dehymuls ^® PGPH as the sole emulsifier or in combination with the polymers as compared to Dehymuls ^® PGPH with Eumulgin ^® VL 75) are massive differences. Although both emulsions still have a W / O / W structure, but in the care emulsion according to the invention, the type C emulsion has shifted from type C to type A. A broad particle size distribution becomes visible, with the small emulsion cells inserting into the voids of the large emulsion cells. As a result, a maximum space filling is achieved while maintaining the spherical individual shape, whereby the foam is denser, creamier and more stable.

to Increase in foaming and stabilization included the care emulsions according to the invention mandatory Surfactants of anionic and amphoteric and / or zwitterionic nature. Even with the surfactants, a careful selection had to take place, because on the one hand, the surfactants should be particularly mild to a skin-friendly Treatment without the occurrence of skin irritation, and on the other hand, the surfactants should be sufficiently adequate Have foaming in order for the inventive Application in a manually operated foam dispenser to be suitable.

As according to the invention suitable surfactant combination to meet the aforementioned requirements ha ben are mild anionic and mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants, which are selected from one or more surfactants of group (iii) of acylamino acids, alpha-olefinsulfonates, ethoxylated alkylsulfuric, sulfosuccinic, ether carboxylic acids and / or the salts of these compounds, as well as one or a plurality of surfactants of group (iv) of the alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates and / or imidazolinium betaines and / or the salts of these compounds.

• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylglutamate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12

ausgewählt sind.The anionic surfactants (iii) which are suitable according to the invention are compounds which are among the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, which

• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acylglutamates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12

are selected.

Particularly suitable anionic surfactants (iii) in the care emulsions according to the invention are, due to their excellent mildness and foamability, the sulfosuccinic acid monoester salts of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers of the general formula R ₁ O (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CO-CH ₂ -CH (SO ₃ ^- ) -COO ^- M ₂ ⁺ , in which R1 has an alkyl group with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, n has an average value of 0-6 and M is an alkali cation, preferably sodium. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid monoester salts of the formula R1-O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CO-CH ₂ -CH (SO ₃ Na) -COONa, in which R1 has an alkyl group with 12 to 16 carbon atoms and n has an average of 1-6. Such products with n = 3 are available under the trade name Texapon.RTM ^® SB 30 by Cognis commercially.

The or the anionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - preferred in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight and in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-% used.

According to the invention suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the alkyl betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example, cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.

One According to the invention preferred zwitterionic surfactant this is known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine Fatty acid amide derivative.

Examples of ampholytic surfactants suitable according to the invention are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Ampholytic surfactants preferred according to the invention are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -acylsarcosine.

Particularly suitable amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (iv) in the inventive Care emulsions, because of their excellent mildness and foamability, are ampho- and betaine surfactants which have an alkyl or acyl group having 8 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular betaine surfactants of the formula R2CONH (CH _{2) m} -N ⁺ (CH _{3) 2} -COO ^-, R2CO is a group derived from caprylic and capric acid and m = 3. Such a surfactant is known to be particularly skin and mucous membrane-friendly as well as low irritation betaine surfactant, and commercially available under the name Tego Betaine 810 from Goldschmidt.

The or the amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant (s) (are) in the care emulsions invention - related on their total weight - preferably in quantities of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular in quantities from 0.5 to 9 wt .-% used.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention be the care emulsions in addition to the aforementioned compulsory components continue to increase substances Added emulsion and foam stability. It was found, that a particularly good foam stabilization can be achieved, when a combination of different polymers was used. When especially suitable for the invention Care emulsions has the combination of at least two polymers one of which is natural and the other synthetic Origin is.

Polymers of natural origin which are suitable according to the invention are based on xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and / or carrageenates. As particularly preferred polymers have been found that can be prepared from alginates, wherein in particular esterified alginates are suitable according to the invention. In addition to the foam and emulsion stabilizing effect, these compounds have the advantage that they can help reduce the loss of water in the skin, thereby additionally supporting the moisturizing effect of the care emulsions of the invention. Particularly suitable alginate esters are prepared from alginates which are esterified with one or more C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohols which can carry one or more hydroxy groups. Particularly suitable are propylene glycol alginates, which are formed by the reaction of an alginate with propylene oxide at high temperatures. Such esterified alginates are commercially available, for example, from FMC Biopolymers under the name "Protanal Ester". Protanal ester ^® CF is particularly preferred for the inventive care emulsion, for he has in aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic solutions has a low viscosity, which has a positive effect on the light foamability of care emulsions.

The Polymers of natural origin are used in the invention Care emulsions - based on their total weight - in Amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and used in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 2 wt .-%.

Particularly preferred anionic homo- and copolymers here are crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized. Such polymers are for example the commercial products of the Carbopol ^® series, such as Carbopol ^® 934, 940, 941, Carbopol ^® Ultrez 10, Carbopol ^® ETD 2001 and 2050 as well as the products of Tego Carbomer 140 and 141 and Synthalen ^® L.

The Polyacrylic acids are used in the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - preferred in an amount of 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0.02 to 2% by weight, and most preferably in an amount from 0.03 to 1 wt .-% used.

Further according to the invention preferred synthetic polymers are polyacryloyldimethyltaurates, such as the cross-linked acryloyldimethyltaurate-acrylamide copolymers with the trade name Sepigel ^® 305 or Simulgel ^® 600 from Seppic, the homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (Acryloyldimethyltaurin), optionally crosslinked and / or may be neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin ^® AMPS or by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Simulgel ^® 800, and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylates, such as the NS under the trade names Sepinov ^® EMT 10 or Simulgel ^® sold by the company SEPPIC commercial products.

The Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate be in the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - preferred in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0.02 to 2% by weight, and most preferably in an amount from 0.05 to 1 wt .-% used.

To be particularly suitable for the preparation of care emulsions according to the invention, the combination of a polyacrylic acid has been found with a polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate, wherein the best foam and emulsion stabilization was achieved by the combination of the two polymers Tego Carbomer ^® 140 and Sepinov ^® EMT 10th

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is a suitable polymer combination for optimal foam and emulsion stabilization, especially the combination of alginate with a polyacrylic acid and a polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate, and in particular the combination of the commercial products Protanal Ester ^® CF, Tego Carbomer ^® 140 and Sepinov ^® EMT 10th

The oil component which is likewise absolutely necessary for the preparation of the care emulsions according to the invention must have skin-care properties, be easily emulsifiable with the abovementioned, compelling components and not adversely affect the emulsion stability. Furthermore, the oil component must not affect the foaming and the sensor of the foam. Under these conditions, the following natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances are suitable according to the invention:
Natural (vegetable) oils: these are usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides. Preferred natural oils according to the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, Macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

In particular, mineral oils, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons are used as mineral oils. An inventively employable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

When synthetic oils also come with silicone compounds such as cyclomethicones, Dimethicone and Amodimethicone into consideration.

As an oil component may continue to serve a dialkyl ether. Usable according to the invention Dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as Di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, Di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, Di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.

According to the invention particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

Under Suitable fatty substances according to the invention are fatty acids, Fatty alcohols as well as natural and synthetic waxes too understand which both in solid form and liquid may be in aqueous dispersion.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. For the purposes of the invention, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, Decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their guerbet alcohols, this list being given by way of example and not by way of limitation , However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention.

When Natural or synthetic waxes can be used according to the invention be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, bee waxes, Candelilla, ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, Fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachse made of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the company Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – ethoxylierte oder nicht ethoxylierte Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, wie beispielsweise Monomuls^® 90-O18, Monomuls^® 90-L12, Cetiol^® HE oder Cutina^® MD,
• – Triglyceride auf Basis von C₆-C₂₂-Fettsäuren sowie flüssige Mono-, Di- und/oder Triglyceridmischungen auf Basis von C₆-C₁₈-Fettsäuren, beispielsweise die unter der Handelsbezeichnungen Myritol^® 318 oder Estasan^® MCT Oil bekannten Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride und
• – Ester der Benzoesäure mit linearen und/oder verzweigten C₆-C₂₂-Alkoholen, wie beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Finsolv^® TN vertriebene C₁₂-C₁₅-Alkylbenzoat.

Other fatty substances are, for example

• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), -
• - ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as ^® Monomuls 90-O18, Monomuls 90-L12 ^®, Cetiol ^® HE or Cutina ^® MD,
• - triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, as well as liquid mono-, di- and / or triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, for example, Myritol ^® 318 or Estasan ^® MCT Oil known under the trade names Caprylic / Capric triglycerides and
• - esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols such as that sold under the trade name Finsolv TN ^® C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate.

In addition to or instead of the aforementioned oil and Fettstoffkomponeten it has proven to improve the sensory and skin care properties advantageous if the care emulsions according to the invention a combination of at least two of the aforementioned Emollients (oil and Fettstof fe) with different Spreitwerten contains. It has thus been found that a long-lasting, smooth skin feel after application of the care emulsion according to the invention can be achieved, in particular, if it contains as oil body or emollient a combination of slow, medium and fast-spreading oil components.

A particularly preferred emollient combination is composed of at least three emollients of the group formed from di (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl ethers, di (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkylcarbonates, mono-, di- or tri Esters of saturated and unsaturated, substituted and unsubstituted C ₆ -C ₂₄ -fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted mono-, di- or polyalcohols of a C chain length of C ₆ -C ₂₄ -atoms, as well as esters of saturated or unsaturated , substituted or unsubstituted mono-, di- or polyalcohols of a C chain length of C ₆ -C ₂₄ atoms with aromatic carboxylic acids.

According to the invention particularly suitable is a combination of dicaprylyl ether (z. B. Cetiol ^® OE), Ethylhexyl Palmitate (z. B. Cegesoft ^® C24) and _C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (z. B. Finsolv ^® TN), wherein the Further increase in activity of the emulsions according to the invention is advantageous if the additional Caprylic / Capric triglycerides (Myritol ^® 318 or Estasan ^® MCT Oil) and oleylerucate (Cetiol ^® J 600). As a result, a particularly harmonic spreading cascade is formed, as a result of which the emulsion foam according to the invention becomes particularly soft, nourishing and sliding.

In order to achieve a particularly rich sensor technology of the care foam and for care emulsions according to the invention, which are particularly suitable for the treatment of dry skin, it has proved to be preferred that the emulsions in addition to the aforementioned emollients further contain at least one component having a melting point in the range of 25 up to 35 ° C. Such an emollient melts when distributing the product by the body temperature and gives a particularly rich feeling. Surprisingly, the foam quality of the care emulsion according to the invention does not suffer from the incorporation of this additional emollient. Although it gets a little less dense, it becomes creamier, which clearly shows the very nourishing, melting properties of the care emulsion. An inventively particularly preferred emollient having a melting range of 25 to 35 ° C is the myristyl myristate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Cetiol ^® MM from Cognis.

The Total amount of the aforementioned oil and fat components in the care emulsions according to the invention is - based on the total weight of care emulsions - 1-25 Wt%, preferably 3 to 20 wt%, more preferably 5 to 15 wt% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-%. If the care emulsions invention in addition to the aforementioned oil and fat components more hydrophobic agents, such as in particular sunscreen it is particularly preferred that the total amount of the emulsified oil phase, including the aforementioned oil and fat components and further hydrophobic active ingredients in the inventive Care emulsions - based on the total weight of the care emulsions - 1-25 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably 5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-% is.

Especially preferred care emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the aforementioned oil and fat components in a total amount of preferably 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-%, and further hydrophobic Active ingredients, in particular light protection filters, in a total amount from 0.5-22% by weight, preferably 1-15% by weight, more preferably 3-12% by weight, and most preferably 5-10 Wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of Care emulsion. The weight of the obligatory emulsifiers (i) and (ii) is not counted to the oil phase.

The Amount of the water phase in the inventive Emulsions are preferably> 35% by weight, more preferably> 45% by weight, especially preferably> 55% by weight and particularly preferably> 65 Wt .-% - in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

In order to compensate for the slight foam-reducing effect of the additional emollient having a melting point in the range from 25 to 35 ° C., it is advantageous according to the invention if the care emulsions contain an additional polymer component, which is a sodium polyacrylate. This polymer has a high flexibility with respect to the oil phase and results in a lighter foam. By introducing the polymer, the foam viscosity of the care foam is also improved and it becomes white, creamy and fine-pored. Such, according to the invention suitable polymer is commercially available under the name Cosmedia® ^® SP from Cognis. It is in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on the total weight - in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably used from 0.01 to 3 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 1 wt .-%.

Next the already mentioned, mandatory components and optional components, to particularly preferred embodiments of the invention Care emulsions include, contain the care emulsions to further increase the skin care and protective Effect of at least one or more excipients and active substances which are selected from the group of UV photoprotective filters, Antioxidants, moisturizers, hyaluronic acid as well their physiologically acceptable salts and derivatives, Active ingredients for the stimulation of collagen synthesis, active ingredients for Increasing or improving the interaction between the extracellular matrix and fibroblasts as well as drugs to promote elastin production.

• – Retinoiden, insbesondere Retinol und C₂-C₂₂-Fettsäureestern des Retinols,
• – Kombucha,
• – Olivenblattextrakten (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),
• – Oleanolsäure,
• –leanol,
• – Grüntee-Extrakten (Camellia Sinensis),
• – Kreatin,
• – sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which stimulates collagen synthesis and is selected from

• Retinoids, in particular retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol,
• - Kombucha,
• Olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),
• - oleanolic acid,
• -leanol,
• - green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis),
• - Creatine,
• - And mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, the retinoids are retinol (vitamin A ₁ ), the C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid esters of retinol (= retinyl ester, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), retinal and its Isomers, all-trans-retinoic acid, 9-cis-retinoic acid and 13-cis-retinoic acid (tretinoin), the esters of retinoic acid and other related substances (synthetic retinoids) are known, which are known for their diverse biological activity especially on growth and differentiation , as well as substances that have a specific biological effect by binding to the retinoid receptors RAR (retinoid acid receptor) and RXR (retinoid X receptor) and cause their activation. Synthetic retinoids are classified into three groups: non-aromatic (eg, isotretinoin), monoaromatic (eg, acitretin), and polyaromatic (so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors). Particularly preferred retinoids according to the invention are retinol and the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Stimulate collagen synthesis, are selected from Kombucha. Kombucha is one from the East Asian region containing about 0.5 vol .-% alcohol, pleasant sour, slightly sweet, sparkling fermentation drink based on mono- or disaccharide-containing tea (black tea, Green tea, herbal tea or fruit tea), without the addition of preservatives, dyes and flavorings will be produced. The "Kombucha tea fungus" acts It is not really a mushroom, it is a mushroom Symbiosis of acetic acid bacteria (mostly Acetobacter xylinum, but also Acetobacter gluconicum) with different yeasts (Saccharomyces sp., Torula sp., Pichia fermentans); optional Lactic acid bacteria may be present. Because of Production safety and production stability become industrial manufactured kombucha often heat treated.

Be under "tea" According to the invention aqueous infusions of leaves, buds and delicate stems of Thea sinensis (Camellia sinensis) and Thea assamica, but also from various others Understood plants, for example mint, linden (Lindenblüten), Mallow, rooibos, chamomile etc.

preferred Kombucha is made from mono- or disaccharide-containing tea of fermented (Black tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, Pu-erh tea) or unfermented (Green tea) leaves of Thea sinensis (Camellia sinensis) or Thea assamica. Further preferred Kombucha is by fermentation of (usually with sucrose) sugared tea with the symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum won. An invention particularly The preferred Kombucha product is a product obtained by fermentation of sucrose-sugared black tea with the two symbiotic ones Microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum were obtained and for example under the INCI name "Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethylcellulose "with the trade name" Kombuchka "as Glycerol-containing thickened preparation available from Sederma is.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An invention particularly before The extracted olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from Vincience. Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Olive leaf extracts can have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or Have oleanol. Further preferred according to the invention Agents that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oleanolic acid and oleanol.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Stimulate collagen synthesis, are selected from green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis). An invention particularly preferred green tea extract is liposome-encapsulated green tea extract, for example under the trade name Greenselect Phytosome available from Indena.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oligopeptides and creatine, as well as mixtures of all the aforementioned active ingredients.

Of the or the active substance (s) that stimulate collagen synthesis (s), are in the care emulsions - related - on their total weight - in an amount of 0.000001-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.00001-2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0001-1 wt%, and extremely preferable 0.005-0.5 wt .-%, used.

• – Apfelkernextrakten (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• – Lotuskeim-Extrakten (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract),
• – Extrakten aus Maiskörnern (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract),
• – Rotweinextrakten,
• – Traubenkernextrakten (Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), die bevorzugt aus der Chardonnay-Traube stammen,
• – Extrakten aus Schwarzen Holunderblüten (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extrakt),
• – Mischungen aus mindestens einem Extrakt aus Kakaobohnen (Theobroma cacao) und mindestens einem Extrakt aus den Blättern der Pfefferminze (Mentha piperita),
• – Hydroxystilbenen und deren Estern, insbesondere Resveratrol und/oder Resveratrolmono-, -di- und -triphosphorsäureestern und deren Salzen,
• – Isoflavonoiden und Isoflavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,
• – Dihydroquercetin (= Taxifolin),
• – sowie Mischungen hiervon.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one further active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and which is selected from

• - apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
• - lotus germ extracts (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract),
• Corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract),
• - red wine extracts,
• Grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape,
• - Extracts of black elderflowers (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),
• Mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of peppermint leaves (Mentha piperita),
• Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts,
• Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts,
• - dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin),
• - And mixtures thereof.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Particularly according to the invention preferred apple seed extracts are under the trade name Ederline available from the company Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, Tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol, Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).

Particularly according to the invention preferred care emulsions are characterized in that they Raw material Ederline in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-8 wt .-% and particularly preferably 3-5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one apple seed extract in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.03-1 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole composition, contain.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from lotus germ extracts. An inventor According to the invention particularly preferred lotus germ extract is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, butylene glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ extract from Maruzen.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from extracts from corn kernels (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract). An inventively particularly preferred extract from corn kernels is under the trade name Deliner available from the company Coletica.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from red wine extracts (Wine Extract). An invention particularly preferred red wine extract is under the trade name Sepivinol R available from Seppic.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), most preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly according to the invention preferred grape seed extracts are under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay available from Croda.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra Flower extract). An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or available from Permcos.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of the Peppermint (Mentha piperita). Particularly according to the invention preferred mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract from the leaves peppermint (Mentha piperita) - being watery, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these Extract mixtures are particularly preferred - are under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange available from Solabia.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and -triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. An invention particularly preferred resveratrol phosphoric acid ester is trisodium Resveratrol triphosphates, e.g. Available from Ajinomoto.

Further According to the invention, preferred active ingredients which are the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the Increase and / or improve fibroblasts are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts.

To the isoflavonoids include according to the invention Isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides.

Under Isoflavones are substances according to the invention, the hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran represent hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton may be present, an oxidation to form a carbonyl group may be in the 4-position, and substitution substitution one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. To the inventively preferred Isoflavones include, for example, daidzein, genistein, Prunetin, Biochanin, Orobol, Santal, Pratensein, Irigenin, Glycitein, Biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are Daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the inventively preferred isoflavone glycosides are the isoflavones over at least one hydroxy group linked glycosidically with at least one sugar. When Sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, especially D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

Farther it is inventively preferred if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides as constituents of a plant substance mixture obtained, in particular a plant extract, contained in the preparations. Such vegetable substance mixtures can in the skilled person, for example, by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from the soy germs, Red clover or chickpeas are obtained. Particularly preferred in the preparations according to the invention isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts derived from soy used, as for example under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), soy protein isolates SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) is commercially available are. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, Phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they have at least one isoflavonoid in total amounts of .00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition, included.

One further active ingredient preferred according to the invention, the interaction between the extracellular matrix and increased and / or improved fibroblasts is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), also referred to as taxifolin becomes.

Particularly according to the invention preferred care emulsions are characterized in that they are at least an active substance that regulates the interaction between the extracellular Increases and / or improves matrix and fibroblasts in a total amount of 0.000001-10 wt%, preferably 0.00001-5% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-2 % By weight, and most preferably 0.005-0.5 or 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

When According to the invention suitable drug for promotion The elastin production is a dill extract (Peucedanum Graveolens Extract), for example, under the trade name AHYA 050 A (mixture of water, butylene glycol, dill extract and xanthan gum) available product. Dill extract is in the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - in in an amount of from 0.0001 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 2 Wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 1.5 wt .-% used.

• – DNA- oder RNA-Oligonucleotiden,
• – Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen der Gruppen B, E, H und K und den Estern der vorgenannten Substanzen,
• – α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, α-Ketocarbonsäuren, β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren und deren Ester-, Lacton- und/oder Salzform,
• – Flavonoiden und Flavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,
• – Ubichinon und Ubichinol sowie deren Derivaten,
• – Silymarin,
• – Ectoin,
• – anorganischen und organischen UV-Filtersubstanzen,
• – selbstbräunenden,
• – hautberuhigenden und
• – sebumregulierenden Wirkstoffen sowie
• – Mischungen dieser Wirkstoffe.

Further preferred active substances which can be added to the care emulsions according to the invention in addition to the obligatory active ingredients according to claim and which positively influence the skin condition are selected from the group which is formed from:

• - DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,
• - vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups B, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances,
• Α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or salt form,
• Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts,
• - ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,
• - Silymarin,
• - Ectoin,
• Inorganic and organic UV filter substances,
• - self-tanning,
• - soothing and
• - Sebumregulierenden agents and
• - Mixtures of these substances.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from DNA oligonucleotides and RNA oligonucleotides. According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine). 5'-triphosphate). An invention particularly preferred Oligonucleotide is the thymidine dinucleotide. In the particularly preferred care emulsions of the invention, the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides are present in amounts of 0.00001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001-1.0 wt.%, And more preferably 0.0005-0.5 Wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one vitamin, Provitamin or a compound called vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups B, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned Substances.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)-benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung können an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (VIT-I) eingesetzt werden.
  
  (VIT-I) Bevorzugt sind die 2-Furanon-Derivate, in denen die Substituenten R¹ bis R⁶ unabhängig von einander ein Wasserstoffatom, einen Hydroxylrest, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl- oder Hydroxymethylrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxy-C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest oder einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder line aren Mono-, Di- oder Triamino-C₂-C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest darstellen. Besonders bevorzugte Derivate sind die auch im Handel erhältlichen Substanzen Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon mit dem Trivialnamen Pantolacton (Merck), 4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton (Merck), 3,3-Dimethyl-2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolacton (Aldrich) und 2,5-Dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanon (Merck), wobei ausdrücklich alle Stereoisomeren eingeschlossen sind. Das erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugte 2-Furanon-Derivat ist Pantolacton (Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon), wobei in Formel (VIT-I) R¹ für eine Hydroxylgruppe, R² für ein Wasserstoffatom, R³ und R⁴ für eine Methylgruppe und R⁵ und R⁶ für ein Wasserstoffatom stehen. Das Stereoisomer(R)-Pantolacton entsteht beim Abbau von Pantothensäure. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sowie die 2-Furanonderivate sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 2 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Vitamin B₆ ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder ”Hautvitamin” bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folat wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001–1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01–0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , trivial name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) -benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I).
  
  (VIT-I) Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ^6, independently of one another, are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or in or di-unsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated one , branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The invention extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (VIT-I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a Hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 is} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 is} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Vitamin B ₆ is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteri dinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the generic term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of compounds containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic connected pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably contained in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total composition. Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above). The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone and / or salt form. According to the invention preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, Lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-Hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, Erythraric, threaric, glucaric, Galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, Pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are Lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. A particularly preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid. The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, Butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Further derivatives of the aforementioned acids their physiologically acceptable salts are preferred the zinc, copper and manganese salts, the salts of the alkali and the Alkaline earth metals and the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, more preferably the sodium, potassium, Magnesium and calcium salts.

The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives preferably in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, especially preferably 0.5-5% by weight and exceptionally preferred 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) and the aurones. The flavanones and isoflavones according to the invention are expressly excluded from the flavonoids. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3 -rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L -mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyrano sid)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D glucopyranoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside). Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside. Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

According to the invention the flavonoids in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, respectively based on the flavonoid-active substance in the whole cosmetic Composition, used.

(UBI-I) mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

(UBI-I) with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Especially preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. According to the invention the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or their derivatives in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, used.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1 containing silymarin. silymarin represents according to the invention an earlier than uniform substance viewed active ingredient concentrate from the fruits The milk thistle (Silybum marianum). The main components of the Silymarins are Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and silydianin belonging to the group of flavanolignans. According to the invention, silymarin is used in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, used.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active substance combination according to claim 1 Ectoin included. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferred in amounts from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, respectively based on the total composition.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.

at The UV filter substances are liquid at room temperature or crystalline substances which are capable of ultraviolet Absorb radiation and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave Radiation, z. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates UVA filter and UVB filter. The UVA and UVB filters can used both individually and in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The inventively preferred organic UV filters are selected from the derivatives of di benzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2. 1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl ) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4- (Dimethylamino) benzoate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate , Salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4 '-Diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoesäurhexylester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester, to polymers geb undene UV filters, z. B. 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS no. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX) , Triazine derivatives, such as. For example, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl- 1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl ] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino] - 6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- ( 2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazole-2 -yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973 -551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzot riazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine also available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [ 4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrole) 2-yl) -1,3,5-tri azine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis { [4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - [[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and mixtures of mentioned components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise , and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37 -7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bionylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex). Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 -Methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäu Re-2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0. The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. According to the invention, the organic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, even more preferably 1.0-15% by weight and more preferably 3.0 -10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

According to the invention the inorganic UV filter substances are preferred in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10 wt%, extremely preferably 1.0-5 wt.% and more preferably 2.0-4.0 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one self-tanning Active ingredient included. According to the invention preferred Self-tanning agents are selected from Dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline. According to the invention the self-tanning agents in a total of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, especially preferably 1.0-5% by weight and exceptionally preferred 2.0-4.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one skin-soothing Active ingredient included. According to the invention preferred skin soothing agents are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, Extracts from Centella asiatica, for example, available under the name Madecassicoside by DSM, glycyrrethinic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. For example, under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance is available, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts from shea butter and Argania Spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil ", as B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from Pentapharm, Extracts of Vanilla Tahitensis, as they are eg. B. under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) from the company Solabia are available, Alginhydrolysaten as z. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, especially phycosaccharides Al, available from Codif, extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as they are B. under the trade name Bacocalmine available from the company Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, such as B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE available from Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferred is the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract "), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, such as they z. B. under the trade name Phytocohesine (INCI: Sodium Beta Sitosterylsulfate) available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, are preferred selected from aminomalonic acid, aminosuccinic acid (= Aspartic acid), aminoglutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, extracts from the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (Zucchini), extracts of Mentha piperita, especially from the Leaves of Mentha piperita, N-acylated alkanolamines, in particular N-palmitoylethanolamine, hydrolysates and / or extracts from the algae Enteromorpha compressa (Darmtang, a green alga), especially from the vegetation body (thallus) of the alga, commercially available for. B. under the trade name Enteline 2, further selected from the dipeptide Tyr-Arg, whose Esters and its N-acyl derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arghexyldecylester (For example, calmosensins of Sederma, as well as any mixtures of these Substances.

Extracts from the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (zucchini) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are described, for example, in the commercial products Curbilene (ex Indena SpA, INCI: Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), Ocaline (ex Soliance, INCI: Sea Water (and) Water (and ) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), ARP 100 (ex Greentech, INCI: Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (pumpkin) Seed Extract), ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), Cucurbitine (ex Christian Dior Perfumes, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), Herbasol Extract Pumpkin (ex Cosmetochem, INCI: Water (and ) Propylene glycol (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract) and Pumpkin Extract (ex Draco Natural Products, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract)). Mentha piperita extracts which are particularly preferred according to the invention, in particular from the leaves of Mentha piperita, are described, for example, in the commercial products Calmiskin OP (ex Silab, INCI: Water (and) Mentha piperita (Peppermint Leaf Extract) and Caomint (ex Solabia, INCI: Propylene Glycol, Water, Mentha piperita (Peppermint) leaf extract, Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) extract). The skin-soothing active ingredients are preferably present in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in addition to the obligatory active ingredient combination according to claim 1. Sebum-regulating active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol, which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. As in the product Seboregul the company Silab are included, further water and oil soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol ^® A5 by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract (z. B. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques) and the active compound mixtures Asebiol ^® BT 2 (Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerin, panthenol ,, allantoin, biotin) and antiobesity factor ^® COS-218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI: Aqua , Cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol). The sebum-regulating active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further According to the invention, preferred care emulsions characterized in that they are in addition to the mandatory Active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one polysaccharide included in a preferred embodiment is from glycosaminoglycans, more preferably from hyaluronic acid, Dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate and especially preferably from hyaluronic acid. The polysaccharide is the care emulsions invention - related on their Gesmtgewicht - in a quantity of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 1.5 wt .-% and in particular in Quantities of 0.001 to 1 wt .-% added.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contain the care emulsions in addition to the mandatory Active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one humectant or a penetration assistant. For example, these are too include urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its Derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, Sorbitol, lactic acid, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol. Particularly preferred are glycerol and sorbitol. The Humectants or penetration aids are the inventive Care emulsions - based on their total weight - in in an amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5 wt .-% added.

The care emulsions according to the invention have a pH in the skin-friendly range from 3.5 to 7.5, preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5.

• – Desodorierende Wirkstoffe wirken Körpergerüchen entgegen, überdecken oder beseitigen sie. Körpergerüche entstehen durch die Einwirkung von Hautbakterien auf apokrinen Schweiß, wobei unangenehm riechende Abbauprodukte gebildet werden. Dementsprechend eignen sich als desodorierende Wirkstoffe u. a. keimhemmende Mittel, Enzyminhibitoren, Geruchsabsorber oder I Geruchsüberdecker.
• – Insekten-Repellentien: Als Insekten-Repellentien kommen beispielsweise N,N-Diethyl-m-toluamid, 1,2-Pentandiol oder 3-(N-n-Butyl-N-acetyl-amino)-propionsäureethylester), welches unter der Bezeichnung Insect Repellent 3535 von der Merck KGaA vertrieben wird, sowie Butylacetylaminopropionate in Frage.
• – Selbstbräuner: Als Selbstbräuner eignet sich Dihydroxyaceton. Als Tyrosininhibitoren, die die Bildung von Melanin verhindern und Anwendung in Depigmentierungsmitteln finden, kommen beispielsweise Arbutin, Ferulasäure, Kojisäure, Cumarinsäure und Ascorbinsäure (Vitamin C) in Frage.
• – Konservierungsmittel: Als Konservierungsmittel eignen sich beispielsweise Phenoxyethanol, Formaldehydlösung, Parabene, Pentandiol oder Sorbinsäure sowie die unter der Bezeichnung SurfacineG bekannten Silberkomplexe und die in Anlage 6, Teil A und B der Kosmetikverordnung aufgeführten weiteren Stoffklassen.
• – Parfümöle: Als Parfümöle seien genannt Gemische aus natürlichen und synthetischen Riechstoffen. Natürliche Riechstoffe sind Extrakte von Blüten, Stängeln und Blättern, Früchten, Fruchtschalen, Wurzeln, Hölzern, Kräutern und Gräsern, Nadeln und Zweigen, Harzen und Balsamen. Weiterhin kommen tierische Rohstoffe, wie beispielsweise Zibet und Castoreum sowie synthetische Riechstoffverbindungen vom Typ der Ester, Ether, Aldehyde, Ketone, Alkohole und Kohlenwasserstoffe in Frage.
• – Farbstoffe: Als Farbstoffe können die für kosmetische Zwecke geeigneten und zugelassenen Substanzen verwendet werden. Beispiele sind Cochenillerot A (C. I. 16255), Patentblau V (C. I. 42051), Indigotin (C. I. 73015), Chlorophyllin (C. I. 75810), Chinolingelb (C. I. 47005), Titandioxid (C. I. 77891), Indanthrenblau RS (C. I. 69800) und Krapplack (C. I. 58000). Diese Farbstoffe werden üblicherweise in Konzentrationen von 0,001 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Mischung, eingesetzt.

In addition, the emulsions according to the invention may optionally contain the further auxiliaries, additives and active ingredients:

• - Deodorizing agents counteract, cover or eliminate body odors. Body odors are caused by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, forming unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Accordingly suitable as deodorizing agents include germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or I odor maskers.
• Insect repellents: As insect repellents are, for example, N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester), which under the name Insect Repellent 3535 is sold by Merck KGaA, as well as Butylacetylaminopropionate in question.
• - Self-tanner: Suitable self-tanner is dihydroxyacetone. As tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and find application in depigmenting agents, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) come into question.
• Preservatives: Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name SurfacineG and the further classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
• - Perfume oils: Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and balsams. Furthermore, animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum and synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons come into question.
• - Dyes: Dyes which may be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Cochenillerot A (CI 16255), Patent Blue V (CI 42051), Indigotin (CI 73015), Chlorophyllin (CI 75810), Quinoline Yellow (CI 47005), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Indanthrene Blue RS (CI 69800) and Krapplack (CI 58000). These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.

The Care emulsions according to the invention are in particular for the application in a manually operated System with pumping mechanism suitable. It is particularly preferred if the care emulsion according to the invention in a Foam dispenser with a pump mechanism for foaming is contained with air. Such a foam dispenser allows it, to renounce propellant gases. Particularly advantageous in this Type of dispensers is also that the application is particularly simple The resulting foam is a light and creamy texture, no Drainage and has a simple distributability, eliminating all aforementioned positive effects on the skin can be achieved.

Foam dispensers which are particularly suitable according to the invention are disclosed in the applications WO 2003/088941 and WO 2004/078902 described in detail. These applications are therefore expressly incorporated by reference to the description of the pump dispenser. These foam dispensers which are particularly suitable for the care emulsions according to the invention are commercially available under the names M3 and F3 from Airspray.

Around foamable using a manual pump dispenser to be are preferred compositions of the invention characterized by a viscosity at 21 ° C in the range of 50-1500 mPas, preferably 100-1000 mPas, more preferably 400-850 mPas, extraordinarily preferably 500-750 mPas, measured with a Brookfield rotational viscometer, Spindle # 1 at a rotational speed of 20 rpm or with a spindle T-A at a rotational speed of 12 Rpm.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention describe without limiting it. The quantities refer to - unless otherwise stated - on Wt .-%.

Examples:

Foamable sunscreen emulsion trade name INCI name and manufacturer amount used Dehymuls® ^® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2-dipopyhydroxystearates (Cognis) 3.0 Eumulgin ^® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2-Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerol (Cognis) 1.5 Cetiol ^® OE Dicaprylyl ether (Cognis) 1.0 Cegesoft ^® C24 Ethylhexyl palmitate (Cognis) 3.0 Finsolv ^® TN C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (Innospec) 3.0 Parsol ^® SLX Benzylidene Malonate Polysiloxanes (DSM) 3.0 Neo Heliopan ^® 303 Octocrylene (Symrise) 4.0 Parsol ^® 1789 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (DSM) 2.0 Tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl acetate 0.6 Sepinov ^® EMT 10 Hydroxyethyl Acrylates / Sodium - Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Seppic) 0.1 Sorbitol, 70% sorbitol 1.5 Glycerol, 86% glycerin 1.5 Tego Carbomer ^® 140 Carbomer (Goldschmidt) 0.12 Protanal ester ^® CF Propylene Glycol Alginate (FMC Biopolymers) 0.4 Perfume 0.3 Ridulisse ^® C GR Hydrolized Soy Protein (Silab) 0.5 Phenonip ^® ME Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben (Clariant) 1.0 Texapon ^® SB 3 non-cons. Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (Cognis) 3.0 Tego Betain ^® 810 Caprylic / Capramidopropyl Betaine (Goldschmidt) 2.0 Citric acid, 10% citric acid qs

The fat and water phases are heated to approx. 80 ° C. Subsequently, the water phase is emulsified using a Dissolverscheibe with the submitted fat phase. The stirrer rotation frequency is continuously increased during the phase combination from 250 to 1400 rpm. At a temperature of 60 ° C or 40 ° C, the polymers (carbomer and alginate ester) are added in the form of a swelling in water. After the emulsion is cooled with stirring to about 30 ° C, the fragrances, agents and preservatives are incorporated. Subsequently, first one third of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture is added. With complete mixing, the viscosity of the emulsion decreases sharply and the rotational frequency of the stirring element is controlled down to 300 rpm. Immediately thereafter, the remaining two-thirds of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture are incorporated and the rotational frequency is reduced to below 300 rpm. The pH is adjusted to 5.1. 2) Foaming emulsion with light emollients for a creamy care foam trade name INCI name and manufacturer amount used Dehymuls® ^® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2-dipopyhydroxystearates (Cognis) 3.0 Eumulgin ^® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2-Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerol (Cognis) 1.5 Cetiol ^® OE Dicaprylyl ether (Cognis) 1.0 Cegesoft ^® C24 Ethylhexyl palmitate (Cognis) 3.0 Estasan ^® MCT Oil Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (Uniquema) 1.0 Cetiol ^® J 600 Oleyl erucate (Cognis) 1.25 Finsolv ^® TN C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (Innospec) 3.0 Parsol ^® SLX Benzylidene Malonate Polysiloxanes (DSM) 3.0 Neo Heliopan ^® 303 Octocrylene (Symrise) 4.0 Parsol ^® 1789 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (DSM) 2.0 Tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl acetate 0.6 Sepinov ^® EMT 10 Hydroxyethyl Acrylates / Sodium - Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Seppic) 0.1 Sorbitol, 70% sorbitol 1.5 Glycerol, 86% glycerin 1.5 Tego Carbomer ^® 140 Carbomer (Goldschmidt) 0.12 Protanal ester ^® CF Propylene Glycol Alginate (FMC Biopolymers) 0.4 Perfume 0.3 Ridulisse ^® C GR Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (Silab) 0.5 Phenonip ^® ME Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben (Clariant) 1.0 Texapon ^® SB 3 non-cons. Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (Cognis) 3.0 Tego Betain ^® 810 Caprylic / Capramidopropyl Betaine (Goldschmidt) 2.0 Citric acid, 10% citric acid qs

The Sepinov EMT 10 is put into the fat phase. The fat and water phases are heated to approx. 80 ° C. Subsequently, the water phase is emulsified using a Dissolverscheibe with the submitted fat phase. The stirrer rotation frequency is continuously increased during the phase combination from 250 to 1400 rpm. At a temperature of 60 ° C or 40 ° C, the polymers (carbomer and alginate ester) are added in the form of a swelling in water. After the emulsion is cooled with stirring to about 30 ° C, the fragrances, agents and preservatives are incorporated. Subsequently, first one third of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture is added. With complete mixing, the viscosity of the emulsion decreases sharply and the rotational frequency of the stirring element is controlled down to 300 rpm. Immediately thereafter, the remaining two-thirds of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture are incorporated and the rotational frequency is reduced to below 300 rpm. The pH is adjusted to 5.1. 3) Foaming emulsion with rich emollients for a white creamy foam especially for the treatment of dry skin trade name INCI name and manufacturer amount used Dehymuls® ^® PG PH Polyglyceryl-2-dipopyhydroxystearates (Cognis) 3.0 Eumulgin ^® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2-Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerol (Cognis) 1.5 Cetiol ^® OE Dicaprylyl ether (Cognis) 1.0 Cetiol ^® CC Dicaprylyl carbonates (Cognis) 1.0 Estasan ^® MCT Oil Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (Uniquema) 1.0 Cetiol ^® J 600 Oleyl erucate (Cognis) 1.0 Cetiol ^® MM Myristyl Myristate (Cognis) 0.65 Finsolv ^® TN C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (Innospec) 3.0 Parsol ^® SLX Benzylidene Malonates Polysiloxanes (Polysilicone-15, DSM) 3.0 Neo Heliopan ^® 303 Octocrylene (Symrise) 4.0 Parsol ^® 1789 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (DSM) 2.0 Tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl acetate 0.6 Sepinov ^® EMT 10 Hydroxyethyl Acrylates / Sodium - Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Seppic) 0.1 Sorbitol, 70% sorbitol 1.5 Glycerol, 86% glycerin 1.5 Tego Carbomer ^® 140 Carbomer (Goldschmidt) 0.12 Protanal ester ^® CF Propylene Glycol Alginate (FMC Biopolymers) 0.4 Perfume 0.3 Ridulisse ^® C GR Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (Silab) 0.5 Phenonip ^® ME Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben (Clariant) 1.0 Texapon ^® SB 3 non-cons. Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (Cognis) 3.0 Tego Betain ^® 810 Caprylic / Capramidopropyl Betaine (Goldschmidt) 2.0 Proteol ^® APL Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids (Givaudan Lavirotte (Seppic)) 1.0 Citric acid, 10% citric acid qs

The Sepinov EMT 10 is put into the fat phase. The fat and the Water phase are heated to about 80 ° C. Subsequently the water phase is using a dissolver disk with the emulsified fatty phase emulsified. The stirrer rotation frequency becomes continuously from 250 during the phase unification Increased 1400 rpm. At a temperature of 60 ° C or 40 ° C, the polymers (carbomer and alginate ester) in Form added to a swelling in water. After the emulsion cooled to about 30 ° C while stirring, the fragrances, active ingredients and preservatives are incorporated. Following is first one third of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture added. With complete mixing takes the Viscosity of the emulsion decreases sharply and the rotational frequency of the Stirrer is controlled down to 300 rpm. Directly after be the remaining two thirds of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture incorporated and reduced the rotational frequency to less than 300 rpm. Of the pH is adjusted to 5.1.

All Three emulsions are used in a model F3 or M3 foamor Company Airspray made-up. The respective care foams This way you can easily and in the right dosage be removed for the application. Their sensors are unique - creamy, soft and "emulsion-like". The foams are still very dense. They are easy on the skin do not distribute and break. In the distribution they slide over the skin and leave there after the absorption a smooth, nourishing skin sensation.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - EP 1496852 [0003, 0005, 0006]
• WO 2003/088941 [0121]
• WO 2004/078902 [0121]

Claims (14)

Cosmetic care emulsion which is foamable using a manual pump dispenser comprising, in addition to at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, an emulsifier combination of (a) at least one W / O emulsifier having an HLB value of 4 to 6 and (b) at least one O / W emulsifier compound having an HLB value in the range of 10 to 14, characterized in that both the W / O and the O / W emulsifier compound containing a poly (12-hydroxystearic) polyglycerolester. Cosmetic care emulsion according to claim 1, characterized characterized in that the O / W emulsifier (b) is a compound of a Poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester, a nonionic Surfactant and a polyol. Cosmetic care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the emulsifier (b) comprises a poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester, an alkyl polyglucoside and glycerol. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further comprises a surfactant combination from mild anionic and mild amphoteric and / or zwitterionic Contains surfactants. Care emulsion according to claim 4, characterized the surfactants are selected from one or more Surfactants of the group of acylamino acids, alpha-olefinsulfonates, ethoxylated alkylsulfuric acid esters, sulfosuccinic acid esters, Ethercarbonsäuren and / or the salts of these compounds, and from one or more surfactants of the alkylbetaines group, Alkylamidoalkylbetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, sulfobetaines and / or imidazolinium betaines and / or the salts of these compounds. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they increase the emulsion and foam stability is a combination of contains at least two polymers, one of which is natural and the other is of synthetic origin. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it additionally a combination from at least three emollients with different spread values contains. Care emulsion according to claim 7, characterized in that the emollients are selected from di (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl ethers, di (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl, mono-, di- or tri-esters saturated and unsaturated , substituted and unsubstituted C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted mono-, di- or polyhydric alcohols of a C chain length of C ₆ -C ₂₄ atoms, as well as esters of saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted mono -, di- or polyalcohols of a C-chain length of C ₆ -C ₂₄ atoms with aromatic carboxylic acids. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 7 to 9, characterized in that they as an additional emollient contains at least one component that has a melting point ranging from 25 to 35 ° C. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetic excipient or active ingredient that is selected is from the group of sunscreens, humectants, antioxidants, Hyaluronic acid and its physiologically acceptable Salts and derivatives, agents for stimulating collagen synthesis, Active ingredients for increasing or improving the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and agents to promote elastin production. Care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 10, characterized in that they have a pH in the range from 3.5 to 7.5, preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5. System of a care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 11 and a foam dispenser with a pumping mechanism for foaming with air. Use of an emulsifier combination (a) at least one W / O emulsifier having an HLB value of 4 to 6 and (b) at least one O / W emulsifier compound having an HLB value of 10 to 14, in cosmetic care emulsions, in a manually applicable foam dispenser in that both the W / O and the O / W emulsifier compound contain a poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester. Use of a care emulsion according to one of the claims 1 to 11 in a manually applicable foam dispenser for the care of Keratin fibers, especially the skin.