DE102006062566A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition, useful to treat the blemished skin and/or acne, comprises an alpha-monoalkyl glycerin ether and an active agent comprising octanediol or hexanediol in a carrier - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition (I) comprises at least an alpha -monoalkyl glycerin ether and at least an active agent comprising 1,2-octanediol or 1,2-hexanediol in a carrier. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Antiseborrheic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The The present invention relates to topical cosmetic and dermatological Compositions in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological Carrier a combination of at least one alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether and at least one active ingredient selected from 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-hexanediol, and their use against impure Skin and / or acne.

State of the art

topical Compositions containing an alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether, are known in the art.

US 2005/0238602 A1 discloses synergistic antimicrobial effects for mixtures of 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether, farnesol, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol.

WO 98/22081 A1 discloses the use of 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether as an active ingredient against seborrhoea, acne and the germ Propionibacterium.

WO 03/69994 A1 discloses antimicrobial compositions of two, three or more unbranched 1,2-alkanediols whose chain lengths are different and each in the range of 5-10 C atoms, wherein the 1,2-alkanediols are selected from 1,2-pentanediol, 1 , 2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-decanediol, which compositions comprise 1,2-hexanediol, and their use (among others) against acne-causing microorganisms.

FR 2771632 A1 discloses that 1,2-octanediol is used in admixture with an N-acylamino acid as an antidandruff agent.

US 6123953 discloses that unbranched 1,2-alkanediols having a total chain length of 5 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 1,2-octanediol, are particularly suitable for the treatment of acne, for the disinfection of small wounds, for the disinfection of the hands of surgeons and the sick.

US 5123953 discloses that formulations containing, in addition to an alkanediol, a glyceryl polymethacrylate-type gel can be used in low concentration for the treatment of acne, skin troubles, and the like. This utility is attributed to a synergistic interaction between the gel and the alkanediol. The preferred alkanediol is 1,2-octanediol. The germs against which the said combination formulations are effective are: Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus faecalis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli, Lysteria monocytogenis, Propionibacterium acnes and pathogenic microorganisms of the species Lysteria, Staphylococcus, Streptococcus and Pseudomonas.

EP 599433 A1 discloses the use of alpha monoalkyl glycerol ethers, especially those having a linear or branched C 6 -C 18 alkyl group, including 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether, as an active ingredient against gram positive bacteria, in particular against Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis, associated with use as a deodorant active.

EP 524548 A1 discloses combinations of antimicrobially effective diols, including alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ethers and 1,2-alkanediols of 8-24 carbon atoms, with aromatic alcohols as preservatives.

EP 547727 A2 discloses a moisturizing, skin gentle hand sanitizer based on alpha monoalkyl glycerol ethers and monohydric C1-C6 alkanols whose antimicrobial activity is synergistically enhanced.

EP 1157685 A2 discloses combinations of mono- and polyglycerol monofatty acid esters, aryl alcohols and alpha monoalkyl glycerol ethers with synergistically enhanced antimicrobial activity as a deodorant active.

EP 1157687 A2 discloses combinations of aryl alcohols and alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ethers with synergistically enhanced antimicrobial activity as a deodorant active.

Versus impure skin are known in the art numerous drugs which are especially sebosuppressive, but also antimicrobial. Many of these active ingredients have a very strong degreasing effect such an even faster Sebumproduktion, whereby the problem of the impure skin is further aggravated.

Versus In the prior art, acne is mainly benzoyl peroxide and retinoic acid used, two highly effective substances, but only as Pharmaceutical are approved and not negligible Have side effects; Retinoic acid, for example, acts teratogenic.

Chlorhexidindigluconat is also a known active ingredient against the germs of the impure Skin or against acne. Such halogenated compounds are but under the new chemicals legislation REACH subject to authorization be; an exchange of such raw materials for cosmetic Products is inevitable in the medium term.

task

task The present invention was topical cosmetic or dermatological Compositions for effective yet gentle and side effect-free To provide treatment for impure skin and / or acne, which is ecologically safe and legally unrestricted approved active substances.

It it has now been found that active ingredient combinations of alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether, in particular 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ethers, and at least one active ingredient, selected from 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-hexanediol, a synergistic Increase the effectiveness against blemished skin and acne.

object The present application is cosmetic or dermatological topical compositions in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier at least one alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether and at least one active ingredient selected from 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-hexanediol.

One Another object of the present application is the use an active ingredient combination of at least one alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether and at least one active ingredient selected from 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-hexanediol for the preparation of a composition for treatment of impure skin and / or acne.

preferred Compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether is selected is from 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether. The alpha monoalkyl glycerol ether (s) are preferred in total amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.25-1 wt .-%, based on the total inventive Composition, included.

Further preferred compositions of the invention are characterized in that 1,2-octanediol and / or 1,2-hexanediol in total amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5-1 wt .-%, based on the total inventive Composition, are included.

Further preferred compositions of the invention are characterized in that 2-Ethylhexylglycerinether and 1,2-octanediol are included.

Further preferred compositions of the invention are characterized in that 2-Ethylhexylglycerinether and 1,2-octanediol in the weight ratio of 1: 10-10: 1, preferably 1: 2- 2: 1, are included.

One of the main constituents of the compositions according to the invention, namely 1,2-octanediol, and, although to a lesser extent, 1,2-hexanediol, prepares according to the manufacturer for incorporation in emulsions, in particular in oil-in-water emulsions, Problems for the long-term stability of the emulsions. The antimicrobial action of these 1,2-diols is based on their interaction with the lipid bilayers that make up the cell membranes of the microorganisms and the dissolution of these lipid bilayers. Since the higher 1,2-alkanediols do not distinguish between lipid bilayers of microbial cell membranes and the stabilizing lipid layers of the emulsifiers around the oil droplets in an oil-in-water emulsion, special constraints must be observed in emulsion preparation to ensure the long term stability of the emulsions , The manufacturer recommends ins in particular, the use of emulsifier combinations of a nonionic and an anionic emulsifier and / or the use of rather nonpolar oils in the oil phase.

Oil-in-water emulsions make a very significant contribution to cosmetic skincare galenic dosage form, as it is from most obscurants because of their nourishing, yet non-greasy skin feel are highly preferred, especially to hydrogels, often perceived as too watery, sticky and not very caring be, and water-in-oil emulsions, often as too greasy be felt.

A Reduction of formulation freedom to certain emulsifier types and certain oils is by no means the expert he wishes. The manufacturer of the higher 1,2-alkanediols recommended nonpolar oils include paraffin oils in particular. These are less appreciated by the consumer than the consumer more polar, cosmetically elegant oil body.

Therefore Another task for a person skilled in the art was oil-in-water emulsions despite having a content of higher 1,2-alkanediols are stable for a long time.

Surprised was found to accomplish this task with oil-in-water emulsifiers, selected from ethoxylated sugar esters, in excellent Way was solved.

Therefore are further preferred compositions according to the invention characterized in that at least one oil-in-water emulsifier which is selected from ethoxylated sugar esters.

preferred Sugar building blocks of inventively preferred oil-in-water emulsifiers based on ethoxylated sugar esters are selected from Mono- and disaccharides of pentoses and hexoses, in particular of Glucose, fructose, xylose, sucrose, maltose, and their alkylated Derivatives, in particular methyl glucose. Particularly preferred sugar building blocks are therefore methyl glucose, glucose and sucrose (sucrose).

Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that oil-in-water emulsifiers based on ethoxylated sugar esters which are preferred according to the invention have 1-2 C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid units per mono- or disaccharide molecule or an average of 1.5 C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid units per mono- or Disaccharidmolekül have, so-called Sesquiester represent.

Therefore, further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the sugar ester is selected from ethoxylated esters of mono- and disaccharides having 1-2 C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acid units per mono- or disaccharide molecule. For the esterification particularly preferred C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids are selected from caprylylic acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid and behenic acid, in particular palmitic acid, stearic acid and oleic acid.

Farther It has surprisingly been found that according to the invention preferred oil-in-water emulsifiers based on ethoxylated sugar esters a medium degree of ethoxylation from 10-150, preferably 20-120.

Therefore are further preferred compositions according to the invention characterized in that the sugar ester has a medium degree of ethoxylation of 10-150, preferably 20-120.

Particularly according to the invention preferred oil-in-water emulsifiers based on ethoxylated Sugar esters are selected from PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-20 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate, PEG-20 Methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-80 methyl glucose laurate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquicaprylate / caprate and PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquoicaurate.

Farther was surprisingly found to be particularly stable oil-in-water emulsions are available, in addition to the ethoxylated Sugar ester at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier is included.

Therefore are further preferred compositions according to the invention characterized in that at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier is included.

Farther it was surprisingly found that the nonionic Water-in-oil emulsifier prefers a straight-line structure should have.

Therefore are further preferred compositions according to the invention characterized in that the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier has a rectilinear structure.

Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier should be selected from ethoxylated linear C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ fatty acids.

Therefore, further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier is selected from ethoxylated C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ linear fatty acids.

Water-in-oil emulsifiers based on ethoxylated linear C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ fatty acids which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from PEG-8 stearate, PEG-10 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate, PEG-20 oleate.

Farther it was surprisingly found that oil-in-water emulsions be achieved with particular stability, if the at least an ethoxylated sugar ester and the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier in a molar ratio of 1: 0.7-1: 1.4, preferred 1: 0.9 to 1: 1.1.

Therefore are further preferred compositions according to the invention characterized in that the at least one ethoxylated sugar ester and the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier in a molar ratio of 1: 0.7-1: 1.4, preferred 1: 0.9 to 1: 1.1.

in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁–R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt.Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is contained,

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from compounds in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl , Ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ and R ₂ and simultaneously at least one of R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions of the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or Hydroxyalkylsubstituierte urea of the general formula (A) selected is from bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

and at least one active ingredient selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, natural betaine compounds, vitamins, Provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned Substances, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, the flavonoids, in particular selected from naringin, α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (Taxifolin ), Hesperidin, hesperitin, neohesperidin, rutin, troxerutin, monoxerutin, diosmin, eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside, further the isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, silymarin, naturally occurring xanthine derivatives selected from Caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline, ectoine, creatine, olive leaf extracts, ursolic acid, oleanol, oleanolic acid and / or oleuropein, mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, derivatives of methylated silanol, phytic acid, extracts of maize kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract ), Extracts from oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract), kombucha, apple seed extract (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), Lotus Seed Extracts (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract), Red Wine Extracts, Grape Seed Extracts (Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape, extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra Flower Extract), agents that stimulate beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes, inorganic and organic UV filter substances, self-tanning agents, skin lightening agents, agents that inhibit prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene synthesis, sebum-regulating agents, and deoxysugars or deoxysugars. Building blocks containing polysaccharides.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea according to formula (A), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount of 0.01-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-20 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-10 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 2-5% by weight, based on the total composition, contain. N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, at room temperature a crystalline solid, is for example as a commercial product Hydrovance of the National Starch and Chemical Company as about 45-55% aqueous solution containing urea and ammonium lactate available.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances, as well as mixtures of these agents.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, Hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, Sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The Physiologically acceptable salts of the invention preferred Active substances containing acid groups and forming salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, Magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Prefers are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Numerous of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then, via the release of growth factors, repair processes in the tissue, eg. As the collagen synthesis, induce, relate They are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (e.g., calmosensins from Sederma, carnosine (β-Ala-His N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg, preferably N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides which are preferred according to the invention, are Gly-His-Lys, which is available, for example, under the name "omega-CH activator" from GfN or in US Pat acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) is available from Sederma under the name Biopeptide CL, but is also (also in acylated form) part of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma Copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) can be used and is available as such from ProCyte Corporation, and analogs of Gly-His-Lys can be used where are substituted with a maximum of two amino acids by suitable other amino acids. For the substitution of Gly, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable according to the invention. The inventively preferred amino acids that can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom that is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides selected from rigin and rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg on. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, e.g. B. under the name Eyeliss is available from Sederma, but also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma. To the Rigin analogues include those where the four amino acids are rearranged and / or where Rigin is at most two amino acids are substituted, for. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids has the sequence a Pro or Arg and more preferably the tetrapeptide both Pro and Arg, with their order and position varying can. The substituting amino acids can selected from each amino acid defined below become. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa, Xbb and Xcc are the same or different May be amino acids and where Xaa is selected is from Gly and the amino acids that substitute Gly Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids, which can substitute Gln, Xcc is selected Pro or Arg and the amino acids that substitute Pro and Arg can.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly, include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gln, include a side chain with an amino group that is neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, z. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Arg, include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is at pH 6 is present predominantly charged, z. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, it is preferred also the fourth amino acid selected from the three aforementioned groups. Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI ), Myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala -Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, melanostatine-DM from Vinci ence), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g. Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7) Hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (e.g. B. Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine exsymol).

Particularly according to the invention preferred is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as for example in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from the company Sederma is available.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. As elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein Pro teinhydrolysate, which may be present in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 Dalton, preferably 800 Dalton, z. As available under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica. with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified Soyaproteinhydrolysaten in the form of their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred.

One further, particularly preferred according to the invention Soy protein hydrolyzate is one that is N-acylated with coconut fatty acids and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate in the form of the potassium salt, under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya of the Company Sinerga is available.

Also preferred according to the invention are keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates. A particularly preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is available under the name Keratec Pep from Croda. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons. Also preferred according to the invention are conchiolin hydrolyzates, in particular those which are obtainable under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen. Conchiolin is a complex protein produced from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular pearl shells and various types of snails, and forms the very stable shell of these molluscs by incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals. Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually not defined.

Also preferred is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

One further active ingredient preferred according to the invention, its effect in the presence of the invention Drug combination is improved, the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (available, for example, under the trade name Glistin exsymol).

Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates. Particularly preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives used in the present invention, some of them are listed under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In In another preferred embodiment, the polymers are the amino acids selected from DNA repair enzymes.

According to the invention preferred DNA repair enzymes are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter further abbreviated to "T4N5". These two enzymes are in the prior art already as so-called DNA repair enzymes known. By DNA repair is by definition the Cleavage or removal of UV-induced Pyrimidindimeren from to understand the DNA. Photolyase is the abbreviation for Deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient Photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine Microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is in technical In the meantime, relevant quantities have been extracted from E. coli. photolyase is dependent on light for activation.

The Enzyme T4 Endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases, which are the nucleic acids split hydrolytically at the (5'-3 ') bond. T4N5 is also without Light influence active.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ^TM , liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. Available under the name Ultrasome ^™ from AGI Dermatics, USA.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, they contain at least one of the commercial products Photosomes ^™ or Ultrasomes ^™ in total amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and especially preferably 1.0-4.0 wt .-%, based on the total composition of the invention.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, they contain at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0, 0000001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01-1-2-3 wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient content in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, at least one DNA oligonucleotide or min at least one RNA oligonucleotide.

According to the invention under an oligonucleotide polymers from 2 to 20, preferably From 2 to 10 mononucleotides understood as well as polynucleotides and nucleic acids by phosphoric acid diester bridges are linked. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic linkage to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, Uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (Guanosine-5'-triphosphate).

One Particularly preferred oligonucleotide according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or one RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.5 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds of the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic group R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. According to the invention preferred betaine are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^-) carnitine and (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^-), each with Me = methyl and X = C-C single bond (in Case of betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - (in the case of carnitine).

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Compositions according to the invention in addition to at least a vitamin, provitamin, or a vitamin precursor Compound of the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, they contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least one ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.05%. 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung werden an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (I) eingesetzt.
  

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , trivial name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Preferred derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol also derivatives of 2-furanone with the general Structural formula (I) used.
  

Particularly preferred are the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ^{6 are} independently a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Vitamin B₆-Komponente in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Biotin und den Biotinestern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folat wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001–1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01–0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and of the 2-furanone derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight. , Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B ₆ component in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the generic term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of compounds containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic connected pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance which is selected from the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of the group B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₃ , B ₆ , B ₇ , B ₉ B ₁₃ and their esters and from pantolactone ,

preferred Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their Esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, Chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside. The combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one of said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 2 wt .-%, in each case on the entire composition, included.

to Vitamin E group include tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, Tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one substance selected from tocopherol and its derivatives, in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin K in a total amount of from 0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.01% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

vitamin A-palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide, Pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred in the invention prefers.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Compositions according to the invention in addition to at least an α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone or salt form. According to the invention preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, Lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-Hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, Malic acid, erythraric acid, threar acid, Glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, Gularic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, Pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are Lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, Butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred according to the invention Compositions are characterized by being next to the at least an α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in one Total amount of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-1-2 wt .-%, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract. The inventively preferred flavonoids include the glycosides of flavones, flavanones, 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, Dihydroquercetin (Taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, Hesperidin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, Quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)) . Diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), Eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extraordinarily according to the invention preferred flavonoids are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and Apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the biflavonoids composed of two flavonoid units, the z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one flavonoid in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Flavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. To the Isoflavonoid at this point the Isoflavone and the isoflavone glycosides are counted.

Under Isoflavones are substances for the purposes of the present invention, the hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran represent hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton may be present, an oxidation to form a carbonyl group in the 4-position can be present, and substitution substitution one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand.

To include the preferred isoflavones according to the invention for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, Santal, Pratensein, Irigenin, Glycitein, Biochanin A and Formononetin. Daidzein, genistein, glycitein are particularly preferred as isoflavones and formononetin. In the inventively preferred Isoflavone glycosides are the isoflavones over at least a hydroxy group glycosidically linked to at least one sugar. Mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly according to the invention preferred isoflavone glycosides are daidzin and genistin.

According to the invention it is preferred if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides as Constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a herbal extract, in the preparations are included. Such vegetable substance mixtures can in the skilled person, for example, by squeezing or extract from plants such as soy, red clover or chickpeas be won. Particular preference is given in the inventive Preparations isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of Soy extracts are used as they are, for example the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) available commercially are. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, Phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural Waxes.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one isoflavonoid in a total of .00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a polyphenol or a polyphenol-rich plant extract.

According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In nature, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives. Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, ie the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, ie the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position, prefers epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as the resulting from self-condensation Tannins. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins. A particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay L, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay grape, available from Croda. According to the invention, the polyphenols are preferred in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight and very preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the commercial product, of at least one polyphenol contains, used in the entire composition of the invention.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (II):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Especially Preferably, the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. Particularly preferred according to the invention Compositions are characterized in that they are at least a ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in a total amount from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and especially preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the compositions of the invention silymarin. Silymarin according to the invention is an earlier regarded as a unitary substance concentrate from the Fruits of milk thistle (Silybum marianum). The main components of Silymarin are Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they Silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 bis 0.01 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline. According to the invention preferred are the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives in amounts from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Compositions of the invention Ectoin. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferred in amounts from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain creatine. Creatine is the common name for N-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid or N-amidinosarcosine. According to the invention, creatine is preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition tion, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). One Olive leaf extract particularly preferred according to the invention is under the trade name Oleanoline DPG by Vincience available. Another invention especially preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the extract as Commercial product tel quel throughout the invention Composition, included.

Olive leaf extracts can have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or Have oleanol. In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention Oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they Oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein in a total amount from 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight, and especially preferably 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total inventive Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the compositions of the invention Ursolic acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they have ursolic acid in one Total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition according to the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an active ingredient selected from mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters. Polyhydroxystilbenes according to the invention are stilbenes understood as having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxy groups substituted on the two phenyl radicals, which esterified could be. Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and fibroblasts.

Particularly according to the invention Preferred hydroxystilbenes and their esters are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, -di- and -triphosphorsäureestern and their salts. One Resveratrol phosphoric acid ester particularly preferred according to the invention Trisodium Resveratrol Triphosphate, z. B. available from Ajinomoto.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-0.1 % By weight, and most preferably 0.005-0.05 Wt .-%, contained, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

• – sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC powder^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC^®, Exsymol)
• – methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium^®, Exsymol)
• – lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C^®, Exsymol)
• – dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane C^® Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C^®, Exsymol).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol. Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from:

• - sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol)
• - Mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol Mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC ^® powder, Exsymol)
• - sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol ^® , exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium ^® , exsymol)
• - lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate ^® , exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane ^® C Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C ^®, Exsymol).

Especially Sodium hyaluronates are preferably dimethylsilanol, dimethylsilanol Hyaluronates, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartates. In a further preferred Embodiment contain the inventive Compositions at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005-1 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, respectively based on the active substance throughout the invention Composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Compositions according to the invention phytic acid. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they produce phytic acid in a total of 0.001-1 Wt .-%, preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.05-0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of corn kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract). An inventively particularly preferred extract from corn kernels is under the trade name Deliner available from the company Coletica. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular Matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), in a total of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 Wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel Extract). A particularly preferred according to the invention Oat grain extract is under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) available from Symrise. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel extract), in a total of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract), in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 Wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one product which is obtained by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter ylinum, referred to as KOmbucha and bears the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. Such products increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred product is available under the trade name Kombuchka from the company Sederma (INCI name: Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose).

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from products produced by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum are obtained and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, in a total amount from 0.01-5 wt.%, preferably 0.1-3 wt.%, especially preferably 1-2 wt .-%, in each case based on the Content of product tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one active substance, the is selected from products produced by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum are obtained and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, in a total amount from 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, respectively based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Increase and / or improve such extracts the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred according to the invention Apple Kernel Extracts are under the tradename Ederline of available from Seporga. The product contains Ederline Phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble Form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, on the other in fat-soluble Form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract) available.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains the raw material Ederline in quantities from 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight, and especially preferably 3-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain. Particularly preferred according to the invention cosmetic or dermatological compositions are thereby in that it contains at least one apple seed extract in quantities of 0.00001-2% by weight, preferably 0.001-1.6% by weight and particularly preferably 0.03-1 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract). such Extracts increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred lotus germ extract is under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract available from Maruzen.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of lotus seeds (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract) in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2-3 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they contain at least one extract of lotus seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of red wine. Increase such extracts and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular Matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred red wine extract is under the trade name Sepivinol R available from Seppic.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in quantities of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of grape seeds (Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract). Such extracts increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. The grape seed extracts are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are under the trade name Herbalia Grape by the company Cognis or available under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of grape seeds in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of grape seeds in amounts of 0.00001-1 wt.%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, respectively based on the content of active substance in the entire composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra Flower extract). Increase and / or improve such extracts the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or available from Permcos.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one extract of blacks Elderflower in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one extract of blacks Elder flowers in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 Wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an agent that inhibits beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes stimulated. Particularly preferred according to the invention Stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are selected from mixtures of at least one extract from the leaves the Mentha piperita and at least one extract of cocoa beans, wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic Preparations of these extract mixtures under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange from the company Solabia are available, are particularly preferred. One Another particularly preferred stimulator of the beta-endorphin synthesis is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester with the INCI name acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, the z. B. as aqueous Preparation under the trade name Calmosensine by the company Sederma is available.

Further preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are extracts of Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Perpetua from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. B. available under the trade names Areaumat Samphira and Aroleat Samphira by Codif, extracts of Lavendula stoechas, z. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Lavanda by the company Codif, extracts of Mentha piperita, as z. Available under the trade names Authenticals of Peppermint (Solabia) and Calmiskin (Silab), glutamylamidoethyl indoles, e.g. B. available under the trade name Glistin exsymol, obtained by microbial fermentation branched polysaccharide with rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid units with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-2, z. B. available under the trade name Rhamnosoft from the company Solabia, extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea with the INCI name Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, z. B. available under the trade name Tephroline from the company Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladaniferus oil with the INCI name Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil and Cupressus Sempervirens Oil and Lavandula Hybrida Oil and Cistus Ladaniferus Oil, eg. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefossé), and hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201 as well as any mixtures of these active ingredients.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active substance for Stimulation of beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.01-10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1-3 wt .-%, each based on the commercial product, the contains the active ingredient throughout the invention Composition, included. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active substance for Stimulation of beta-endorphin synthesis in total levels of .00001-1 Wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance throughout the composition of the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance. The UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. heat, again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention. The organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the physiologically tolerated derivatives of dibenzoylrnethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadiene carboxylic acid esters and carboxylic acid amides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters, benzoxazole, and any mixtures of said components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid-4 isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid malonate -2-ethylhexyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (octyl Triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), Dimethicodiethylbenzal (CAS -No. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX), Dio ctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®), 2,4-bis- [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^®) and any desired mixtures of the stated components.

preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, Phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its Salts.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are fine disperse or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, ceria, zirconia, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one organic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-15 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 3.0-10 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one inorganic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-5 wt .-% and exceptionally preferred 2.0-4.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a self-tanning agent. According to the invention preferred Self-tanning agents are selected from Dihydroxyacetone, tyrosine, tyrosine derivatives and erythrulose.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one self-tanning Active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1-15 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0-5% by weight and most preferably 2.0-4.0% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one skin-lightening active ingredient. Skin-lightening active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C ₂ -C ₂₀ -carboxylic acids and their alkali and alkaline earth metal salts, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, mulberry extract and licorice extract, and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance and as a mixture, the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred. Particularly preferred are sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl monopalmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl monostearate, ascorbyl distearate, ascorbyl monoethyl hexanoate, ascorbyl diethylhexanoate, ascorbyl monooctanoate, ascorbyl dioctanoate, ascorbyl monoisostearate and ascorbyl diisostearate. The invention extraordinarily preferred ascorbic acid derivatives are sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one skin lightening Active ingredient in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an active ingredient that stimulates prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene synthesis inhibited.

preferred Agents that inhibit prostaglandin synthesis are selected from active substances that inhibit the enzyme cyclooxygenase and active substances, the distribution of interleukins, in particular of Interleukin-1-alpha, inhibit. For the purposes of the present invention Under the inhibition of cyclooxygenase, both a decrease the amount of this enzyme as well as a reduction of its activity as well as both of these are understood.

preferred Agents that inhibit leukotriene synthesis are selected from drugs that inhibit the enzyme 5-lipoxygenase. For the purpose of The present invention can be used to inhibit 5-lipoxygenase both a decrease in the amount of this enzyme and a reduction his activity and both are understood.

According to the invention preferred Inhibitors of prostaglandin synthesis, especially inhibitors cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin release, are selected from silymarin, which is particularly preferred is used in liposome-encapsulated form (available z. B. under the trade name Silymarin Phytosome (INCI: Silybum Marianum Extract and Phospholipids) from Indena SpA. Silymarin represents a previously regarded as a unified substance Active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum). The main constituents of Silymarin are Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and Silydianin, belonging to the group of flavanolignans. Further preferred according to the invention Inhibitors of prostaglandin synthesis, especially inhibitors cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin release, are selected from extracts of Centella asiatica, for example available under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, Glycyrrethinsäure, the most preferred in liposomes encapsulated present and in this form z. B. under the trade name Calmsphere is available from Soliance, blends of grain waxes, Extracts of shea butter and Argania spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil. B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS from the company Pentapharm Available are extracts of Vanilla Tahitensis, such as they z. B. under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) are available from Solabia, extracts from olive leaves (INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract), in particular under the trade name Oleanoline DPG available from the company Vincience, also algin hydrolyzates, as they are z. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, in particular Phycosaccharides Al, available from Codif, Extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as z. B. under the trade name Bacocalmins are available from the company Sederma, extracts from the rooibos plant, such as B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE available from Cosmetochem are the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as they are z. B. under the trade name Phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium beta-sitosteryl sulfates) available from Vincience are, as well as any mixtures of these agents.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one inhibitor of Prostaglandin synthesis in a total amount of 0.0001-10.0 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001-2.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05-1.0% by weight and exceptionally preferred 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

Preferred inhibitors of leukotriene synthesis according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of 5-lipoxygenase, are selected from algin hydrolyzates, amino dicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their physiologically tolerated salts, N-alkylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ amino acids with C ₁ C ₂₂ alkyl radicals and their physiologically acceptable salts, N-acylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ amino acids with C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radicals and their physiologically acceptable salts, yeast extracts, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, allantoin and any mixtures thereof agents.

In a preferred embodiment, the inventive Alginhydrolysate selected from the products, the z. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, especially phycosaccharides Al, available from Codif.

In Another preferred embodiment is the preferred according to the invention Aminodicarboxylic acids with a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms selected from aminomalonic acid, Amino-succinic acid (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable Salt. Particularly preferred are aspartic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts, especially potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate. According to the invention preferred become the amino dicarboxylic acids with a C chain length from 3-6 carbon atoms and their salts in quantities of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total inventive Composition, used.

In another preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred N-alkylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ -amino acids having a C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical selected from alanine, glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, Tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, glycine, serine, tyrosine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine and their physiologically acceptable salts, which on the nitrogen atom of the amino group is a C ₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical selected from a group of methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl , Pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (myristyl), pentadecyl, hexadecyl (palmityl, cetyl), heptadecyl, octadecyl (stearyl), nonadecyl, eicosanyl (arachidyl) and Behenyl. Particularly preferred is N-methylglycine (= sarcosine).

Preference according to the invention is given to the N-alkylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ -amino acids having a C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical and their physiologically tolerable salts in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred N-acylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ amino acids having a C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radical selected from glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Methi onin, glycine, serine, tyrosine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine and their physiologically acceptable salts. The amino acids can be used individually or in a mixture. Particularly suitable according to the invention are amino acid mixtures which have been obtained from plants, in particular cereal plants. The C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. Particularly preferred are sodium cocoyl amino acids, sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate, and the lauroyl derivatives of cereal plant derived amino acids.

The Cereal plants from which the invention suitable Amino acids are obtained, are subject to no restriction. Suitable are, for example, oats, wheat, barley and rye; especially suitable is oats.

One particularly preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor is the commercial product Seppicalm from the company Seppic with the INCI name "Sodium Cocoyl Aminoacids, Sarcosine, Potassium Aspartate, Magnesium Aspartate ".

According to the invention, preference is given to the N-acylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ -amino acids having a C ₂ -C ₂₂ -acyl radical and their physiologically tolerable salts in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition used.

In Another preferred embodiment, the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors prefer yeast extracts in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the extract tel quel in the entire composition of the invention used. A particularly preferred commercial product is Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract") available from the company Lanatech.

In Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor α-bisabolol in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total topical composition, used.

In Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor α-lipoic acid in amounts from 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and especially preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total topical Composition, used.

In Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor allantoin in amounts of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the total topical composition used.

In Another preferred embodiment of the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are preferred physiologically acceptable Salts of sterol sulphates selected from the salts of β-sitosterol sulphate, Ergosterol sulfate, stigmasterol sulfate, cholesterol sulfate and lanosterol sulfate. Particularly preferred are the salts of β-sitosterol sulfate. The sterol sulphate salts are preferred in amounts of from 0.001 to 5% by weight 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, respectively based on the total topical composition used. The Sterolsulfate salts can be both individually and be used in any mixtures. A particularly preferred commercial product used is phytocohesins (INCI name "Sodium Beta Sitosteryl Sulfate"), available from the company Vincience.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one inhibitor of Leukotriene synthesis in a total amount of 0.0001-10.0 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001-2.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05-1.0% by weight and exceptionally preferred 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a sebum-regulating agent. According to the invention preferred sebum-regulating agents are selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, Sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of Azelaic acid, especially potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria and mixtures the aforementioned substances. Preferred mixtures are, for example available as a commercial product Acnacidol PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1,10-decanediol) from Vincience available. A preferred extract of Spiraea ulmaria is z. B. contained in the product Seboregul 2 Silab. Kaliumazeloyldiglycinat is z. B. contained in the product Azeloglicina Sinerga. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in total amounts from 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the active substance in the total composition according to the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a deoxy sugar or at least one deoxy sugar building block containing polysaccharide.

Preferred deoxysugars according to the invention are selected from rhamnose and fucose. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product fucogel ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum -1. Another inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Rhamnosoft ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Fucogenol ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-third An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Glycofilm ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-fourth According to the invention furthermore given to mixtures of the above, containing at least one deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia are.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one deoxy sugar and / or at least one polysaccharide containing deoxy sugar building blocks in total amounts of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition according to the invention.

advantageously, are the skin treatment compositions of the invention in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, Multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, Microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a single- or multi-phase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least a polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The means may also be in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils be.

In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions. Upon subsequent cooling O / W emulsions are again formed, but also at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions with a average particle diameter below 400 nm and especially from about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.

In the embodiment as an emulsion or as a surfactant solution, for. As a cleaning agent, the compositions of the invention contain at least one surfactant as emulsifier or dispersant. Examples of suitable emulsifiers are addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, on C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids and on C ₈ -C ₁₅ -alkylphenols, C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C ₈ -C ₂₂ - Alkylmono- and - oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) -glucosiden and fatty alcohols, eg. For example, the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, sterols, in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, as well as mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid ester of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and Polyglyceryl-3 -diisostearat (commercial product Lameform ^® TGI) as well as linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn - salts.

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such emulsifiers are, for example, compounds of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group with 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate.

Further suitable additives are fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid components of coconut oil, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z. B. di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl n-octyl ether, fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, ester oils, ie esters of C _6-30 fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid, Dicarbonsäureester such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol diol or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol waxes, especially insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, e.g. Hardened triglyceride fats, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and silicone polymers, which may, if desired, be crosslinked, e.g. As polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

The preferred use amount of the fatty substances is 0.1-50 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-15 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. As natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the acidic groups wholly or partly as sodium, potassium , Ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are NS Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600 ^® and Simulgel® Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _10-30 carboxylic acids, the copolymer having the can be crosslinked aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold. Other suitable additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances for adjusting the pH Value, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, opacifiers and pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

The The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention, without limiting it to it.

to Determination of antibacterial activity was compared to a Approach without active ingredient bacterial inhibition or killing or uninhibited growth of the test strains.

to Assess the antibacterial performance of leave-on products will generally have a contact time of 6 hours on the skin accepted.

One Pordukt is considered to be effective as an antibacterial if during this time in the Comparison to control either a reduction of the test organisms or at least a growth inhibition is detectable.

• Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 (SA)
• Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 15442 (PA)
• Propionibacterium acnes ATCC 6919

The following test strains were tested:

• Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 (SA)
• Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 15442 (PA)
• Propionibacterium acnes ATCC 6919

For the investigations, the following oil-in-water emulsion base was prepared: Glucamate SSE 20 2.00 Myritol 318 7.00 Sympatens BS / 080 2.00 Cutina MD 2.00 Lanette O 1.00 Baysilone oil M 350 0.30 Propylparaben 0.20 Eusolex OMC 1.00 Parsol 1789 0.50 Oxynex K liquid 0.05 Glycerol, 86% 6.00 1,2-propylene glycol 2.00 Sorbitol, 70% 1.00 methylparaben 0.20 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.40 D-panthenol, 75% 0.70 Peppermint distillate 2.00 Chamomile distillate 2.00 D, I-alpha-bisabolol 0.05 BisCos Glynarin PF 0.05 Tego Carbomer 140 0.70 NaOH beads 0,128 Perfume 0.30 Aqua ad 100

The oil-in-water emulsion base was prepared with the following active substance concentrations (amounts in% by weight, based on the total emulsion): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1,2-octanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.0 - 1.0 - sensiva 0.25 0.5 - - 0.5 0.5 - Chlorhexidine digluconate (control) - - - - - - 0.5

After 6 hours of contact time, the samples show the following logarithmic reduction levels compared to the test germs: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Prop. Acnes ≥ 5.04 ≥ 5.04 2.74 ≥ 5.04 2.43 ≥ 5.04 ≥ 5.04 PA 1.23 1.51 0.79 1.74 1.02 2.31 0.87 SA 0.09 0.04 -0.06 0.20 -0.22 0.47 1.22

The compositions of the invention show after 6 hours of contact time, a significantly good inhibition of the bacteria Pseudomonas aeruginosa (PA) and Propionibacterium acnes. 1. Oil-in-water emulsions (all amounts in% by weight) 1 2 3 safflower oil 3.00 3.00 3.00 Myritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 Behenyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 Lanette O 1.00 1.00 1.00 Baysilon M350 1.00 1.00 1.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dry Flo plus 1.00 2.00 3.00 1,2-propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 Glycerol, 86% 5.00 3.00 3.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Herbasol distillate sage 1.00 - 1.00 Herbasol distillate witch hazel 1.00 - 1.00 d-Panthenol 0.7 0.525 0.60 Epica - 0.05 - Herbasol distillate white tea - 0.50 - Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - 0.45 - Spirulina Extract 3002 1.00 - 1.00 1,2-octanediol 0.5 1.00 0.50 Sensiva SC 50 0.5 0.5 0.25 Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 2nd example series: 1 2 3 Lipoid S 75-3 0.50 0.50 0.50 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 Cutina MD 1.00 1.00 1.00 Behenyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 Baysilon M350 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 9040 1.00 1.00 1.00 Glycerol, 86% 4.50 3.00 3.00 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego Carbomer 140 0.30 0.30 0.30 DSH CN 5.00 5.00 5.00 Spirulina Extract 3002 1.00 0.50 - 1,2-propylene glycol 5.00 3.00 3.00 Simulgel NS 1.50 1.50 1.50 TiO ₂ 0.50 0.50 0.50 Herbasol distillate sage - 1.00 - Herbasol distillate witch hazel - 1.00 - d-Panthenol - 0.525 0.60 Epica - - 0.05 Herbasol distillate white tea - - 0.50 Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - - 0.45 1,2-octanediol 0.5 1.00 0.50 Sensiva SC 50 0.5 0.5 0.25 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 3rd example series: 1 2 3 Sisterna SP 30c 2.00 2.00 2.00 Sisterna SP 70c 0.80 0.80 0.80 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 ethanol 5.00 3.00 - Dry Flo Plus 1.00 1.00 1.00 1,2-octanediol 0.5 1.00 0.50 Sensiva SC 50 0.5 0.5 0.25 Lanette O 1.00 1.00 1.00 Fucogel 1000 2.00 1.00 0.50 Herbasol distillate sage 1.00 0.50 1.00 Herbasol distillate witch hazel 1.00 0.50 - Epica - 0.05 0.05 Herbasol distillate white tea - 0.50 0.50 Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - 0.45 0.45 Spirulina Extract 3002 1.00 1.00 1.00 DSH CN 5.00 3.00 - Keltrol SF 0.20 - 0.20 Aristoflex AVC - 0.50 - 1,6-hexanediol 5.00 - - Glycerol, 86% 10.00 5.00 10.00 Dow Corning Fluid 200, 1.5 cSt 7.00 - - Dow Corning Fluid 245 - 5.00 5.00 Cetiol 868 2.00 - 2.00 Photo Somes ^® 0.20 0.20 0.20 Hydro Vance 2.50 4.30 8.60 taurine 1.00 1.00 0.30 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 4th example series: 1 2 3 Montanov 202 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 Lanette O 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cetiol B 9.00 9.00 9.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Dow Corning Fluid 245 - 7.00 3.00 Dow Corning 9040 1.00 1.00 - 1,2-octanediol 0.5 1.00 0.50 Sensiva SC 50 0.5 0.5 0.25 Fucogel 1000 - 2.00 - Herbasol distillate sage - - 1.00 Herbasol distillate witch hazel - - 1.00 d-Panthenol - 0.7 0.70 Epica - 0.05 - Herbasol distillate white tea - 0.50 - Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - 0.45 - Spirulina Extract 3002 1.00 - 1.00 DSH CN 5.00 5.00 - Keltrol SF - 0.20 0.20 Aristoflex AVC - 0.50 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 6.00 - Glycerol, 86% 3.00 5.00 10.00 Dow Corning Fluid 200, 1.5 cSt 7.00 7.00 - 1,2-propylene glycol 2.00 2.00 - Tego Carbomer 140 0.30 0.30 0.30 Phenonip 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dry Flo plus 1.00 1.00 1.00 Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 5th example series: 1 2 3 Glucamate SSE 20 2.00 2.00 2.00 Sympatens BS / 080 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dry Flo plus - 1.00 1.00 1,2-octanediol 0.5 1.00 0.50 Sensiva SC 50 0.5 0.5 0.25 Baysilone oil M 350 0.30 0.30 - Cutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 paraffin oil 2.00 1.00 - cetearyl 1.00 1.50 1.25 Myritol 318 - 3.50 3.00 Herbasol distillate sage 1.00 - 1.00 Herbasol distillate witch hazel 1.00 - 1.00 d-Panthenol 0.70 - 1.00 bisabolol 0.10 0.10 - phenoxyethanol 0.98 0.50 0.90 Symdiol 68 - 0.50 - Spirulina Extract 3002 - 1.00 1.00 DSH CN - 5.00 - Keltrol SF - - 0.20 Aristoflex AVC - 0.50 0.50 1,6-hexanediol - 5.00 5.00 Glycerol, 86% 2.00 5.00 10.00 Culminal MHPC 100 0.10 0.10 0.10 1,2-propylene glycol 2.00 5.00 3.00 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 3. Cleaning preparations 1 2 3 dipropylene 10.00 10.00 10.00 Poloxamer 184 3.00 3.00 3.00 panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Chitosan glycolate 3.00 3.00 3.00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Trideceth 9 / Propylene Glycol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Chlorella vulgaris extract 0.50 0.50 0.50 Hydro Vance - - - 1,2-octanediol 0.5 1.00 0.50 Sensiva SC 50 0.5 0.5 0.25 Taurine 1.00 0.50 0.30 salicylic acid 0.50 - - niacinamide 0.50 0.50 0.50 Vitamin B6 0.10 0.10 0.10 Perfume 0.20 0.20 0.20 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 List of used commercial products trade name INCI name Supplier / Manufacturer Acnacidol PG Sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol Vincience Ajidew ^® NL 50 Sodium PCA AJINOMOTO Aristoflex AVC AMMONIUM ACRYLOYL DIMETHYLATEURATE / VP COPOLYMER, T-BUTYL ALCOHOL Clariant Baysilone oil M 350 Dimethicone Bavarian Biopeptide CL Glyceryl polymethacrylates, propylene glycol, palmitoyl oligopeptides Sederma BisCosGlynarin PF AQUA (WATER), ALCOHOL, PHENOXYETHANOL, AMMONIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE, TANNIC ACID, NARINGIN Alina trading company Calmosensine Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester Sederma Caomint Propylene Glycol, Aqua, Mentha piperita, Theobroma cacao Solabia Carbopol ETD 2020 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Noveon Cetiol 868 ETHYLHEXYL STEARATE Cognis Culminal MHPC 100 methylhydroxypropylcellulose Cutina CBS Glyceryl Stearate / Cetearyl Alcohol / Cetyl Palmitate / Cocoglycerides Cognis Cutina MD Glyceryl stearate Cognis Dow Corning 200 Fluid (0.65 cSt) Dimethicone Dow Corning Dow Corning 9040 Cyclomethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer Dow Corning Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid, Dimethicone Dow Corning 5 cSt. Dry Flo Plus Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate National Starch DSH CN Water, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Exsymol Ederline H PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract Seporga Ederline L Hexyl Decanol, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract Seporga Elfacos ST 9 PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer Akzo Nobel Emulgade® ^® SE Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate Cognis Epica AQUA (WATER), ALCOHOL, PINUS SYLVESTRIS BARK EXTRACT, RIBES NIGRUM (BLACK CURRANT) LEAF EXTRACT Greentech Eumulgin B 3 Ceteareth-30 Cognis Eusolex OMC Octyl methoxycinnamate Merck KGaA Fucogel 1000 Biosaccharides Gum-1 Solabia Glucamate SSE 20 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE Noveon Keltrol SF Xanthan gum Lameform TGI Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate Cognis Lamesoft ^® PO 65 Coco Glucosides, Glyceryl Oleate, Water Cognis LANETTE ^® O Cetearyl Alcohol Cognis Lipoid S 75-3 Water, lecithin Lipoid GmbH Madecassoside Centella Asiatica Extract DSM Matrixyl Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 Sederma Matrixyl 3000 Glycerine, Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-1 Sederma Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside Seppic Montanov 202 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE Seppic Montanov L. C14-22 Alcohols / C12-20 Alkyl Glucosides Seppic Myritol 318 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides Cognis Neo Heliopan AP Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonates Symrise Neo Heliopan Hydro Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid Symrise Novata AB Cocoglycerides Cognis Omega-CH-activator Tripeptide-1 GfN Oxynex K liquid PEG-8, TOCOPHEROL, ASCORBYL PALMITATE, ASCORBIC ACID, CITRIC ACID Merck KGaA Parsol 1789 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE DSM Pemulen TR 1 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Noveon Phenonip PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN Clariant Photo Somes Aqua, lecithin, plancton extract AGI Dermatics Phytokine HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN Coletica Plantar ^® 1200 Lauryl Glucoside, about 50% active ingredient Cognis Ridulisse C Hydrolyzed soy protein Silab Rooibos Herbasec MPE Rooibos Extract Cosmetochem Seboregul Butylene Glycol, Aqua, Spiraea Ulmaria Silab Sensiva SC 50 ETHYLHEXYLOXYGLYCERIN Schülke & Mayr Sepigel ^® 305 ¹⁵ Polyacrylamides, C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin, laureth-7 SEPPIC Sepivinol R Polyphenol-rich extract of red wine Seppic Silymarin phytosome Silybum Marianum Extract and Phospholipids Indena SpA Sympatens BS 080 PEG-8 STARTE Dr. W. Kolb Simulgel NS Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer / squalane / polysorbate 60 Seppic Ultrasomes Aqua, lecithin, Micrococcus luteus extract AGI Dermatics Vegetal Filling Spheres CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE, HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, ISOBUTYLPARABEN Coletica

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• US 2005/0238602 A1 [0003]
• WO 98/22081 A1 [0004]
• WO 03/69994 A1 [0005]
• FR 2771632 A1 [0006]
• US 6123953 [0007]
• US 5123953 [0008]
• - EP 599433 A1 [0009]
• - EP 524548 A1 [0010]
• - EP 547727 A2 [0011]
• - EP 1157685 A2 [0012]
• - EP 1157687 A2 [0013]
• FR 2842201 [0137]

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0068]

Claims (17)

Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition, containing in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological Carrier at least one alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether and at least one active ingredient selected from 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-hexanediol. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized the alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether is selected from 2-ethyl hexyl glycerin. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized that 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether and 1,2-octanediol are included. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether and 1,2-octanediol in the weight ratio of 1: 10-10: 1, preferably 1: 2-2: 1, are included. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one oil-in-water emulsifier which is selected from ethoxylated sugar esters. A composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the sugar ester is selected from ethoxylated esters of mono- or disaccharides having 1-2 C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acid units per mono- or disaccharide molecule. Composition according to one of the claims 5 or 6, characterized in that the sugar ester has a middle Degree of ethoxylation of 10-150, preferably 20-120, having. Composition according to one of the claims 5-7, characterized in that at least one nonionic Water-in-oil emulsifier is included. Composition according to one of the claims 5-8, characterized in that the at least one nonionic Water-in-oil emulsifier has a rectilinear structure. Composition according to any one of Claims 5-9, characterized in that the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier is selected from ethoxylated C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ linear fatty acids. Composition according to one of the claims 5-10, characterized in that the at least one ethoxylated sugar esters and the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier in a molar ratio of 1: 0.7-1: 1.4, preferred 1: 0.9 to 1: 1.1. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is contained,

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from compounds in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ and R ₂ and simultaneously at least one of R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted Urea of the general formula (A) is selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one active ingredient selected from: a) monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, b) DNA or C) natural betaine compounds, d) vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances, e) α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, f) flavonoids, in particular selected from naringin, α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), hesperidin, hesperitin, neohesperidin, rutin, troxerutin, monoxerutin , Diosmin, eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside, g) isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, h) ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, i) Sil ymarin, j) naturally occurring xanthine derivatives selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline, k) ectoine, l) creatine, m) olive leaf extracts, ursolic acid, oleanol, oleanolic acid and / or oleuropein, n) mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their derivatives Esters, o) derivatives of methylated silanol, p) phytic acid, q) extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays kernel extract), r) extracts of oat kernels (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel extract), s) kombucha, t) apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), u) lotus extracts (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract), v) red wine extracts, w) grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape, x) Extracts from black elderflowers (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract), y) active ingredients that stimulate beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes, z) inorganic and organic UV filter substances, aa) self-tanning active ingredients, b) skin-whitening active ingredients n, cc) active compounds which inhibit prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene synthesis, dd) sebum-regulating active substances, ee) and polysaccharides containing deoxysugars or deoxy sugar building blocks. Use of a drug combination of at least an alpha-monoalkyl glycerol ether and at least one active ingredient, selected from 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-hexanediol, for the preparation a composition for the treatment of impure skin and / or the acne. Use according to claim 16 characterized in that a composition according to a of claims 2-15 is produced.