DE102008008780A1 - Deodorants and / or antiperspirants with improved fragrance and odor absorption - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or antiperspirant composition, containing - in each case based on the weight of the total composition - in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle - at least one deodorant or antiperspirant active ingredient, - 0.0001 to 5% by weight perfume ( e), - 0.1 to 10 wt .-% spherical porous polyamide particles, which. a number average particle diameter of 1 to 30 microns,. a BET specific surface area (according to DIN 66131) of 5 m2 / g or more,. an oil absorption capacity (boiled linseed oil) of 200 ml / 100 g or more,. a crystallinity (DSC measurement) of 40% or greater, and. have a quotient of volume-average particle diameter to number average particle diameter of 1.0 to 1.5, scented long-lasting, absorb unpleasant odors and increase the performance profile and the persistence of fragrance impression.

Description

The The present application relates to cosmetic and dermatological antiperspirant and deodorant compositions that have an improved scent effect and odor absorption.

commercial antiperspirant compositions, also referred to as Antiperspirants referred to, contained as an antiperspirant active ingredient at least one water-soluble astringent inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zinc or selected Aluminum zirconium mixed salts. Commercially available deodorant compositions, hereinafter also referred to as deodorants, contained as a deodorant active ingredient often at least one antibacterial agent.

The Antiperspirant agents have no direct influence on the Activity of the sweat glands, but Minimize sweat secretion by narrowing the drainage channels. The Al salts cause thereby on the treated skin surfaces a sweat inhibition due to superficial constipation sweat gland ducts due to Al mucopolysaccharide precipitation.

antiperspirant and deodorant compositions are commonly used in the Forearm area or in the area of the armpits applied and applied. The skin in this area is mostly more sensitive than the remaining skin of the body, often at least as sensitive as the skin of the face. It exists therefore a constant need for particularly skin-friendly Formulations used as a carrier for cosmetic and dermatological antiperspirant and deodorant compositions are suitable. Furthermore, there is a need for particularly skin-friendly Formulations used as a carrier for cosmetic and dermatological antiperspirant and deodorant compositions You may be able to do that on a regular basis Use occasionally irritating antiperspirant and Deodorant agents to make skin-friendly or to mitigate their irritative effect.

About that In addition, cosmetic products in general and deodorants or antiperspirants in particular the treated skin give a pleasant smell and any unpleasant Neutralize odors. Especially when Sweating places high demands on the funds, as they do even in this situation should not fail in their effect.

task The present invention was to provide active ingredients for cosmetic and dermatological antiperspirant and deodorant compositions with particularly high skin tolerance and special To find efficiency against odors. Another task The present invention was to provide active ingredients for cosmetic and dermatological antiperspirant and deodorant compositions to find the long-lasting fragrance of the treated main parts and possibly any unpleasant Can absorb odors

Surprised It has been found that certain plastic particles as fragrance-fixing and long-lasting scented agents are used to make Antiperspirant and deodorant compositions are suitable. About that In addition, these particles absorb unpleasant odors and thus still increase the performance profile of the compositions further.

The plastic particles used in the context of the present invention are described in the prior art:
The U.S. Patent 4,831,061 describes a porous polyamide powder that has a rose flower-like structure in which the lamellae are bonded together and form cavities that are oriented toward the center of the particles. The use of these particles in a variety of applications is also disclosed without further examples.

The European patent application EP 1 582 194 A1 discloses cosmetic creams containing porous polyamide particles. In the creams and decorative cosmetics disclosed therein, the particles serve to absorb excess sebum from the skin surface and thus avoid undesirable greasy shine.

The production of porous polyamide particles is for example in the Japanese Laid-Open Publication 2002-80629 disclosed.

• – mindestens einen Deodorant- oder Antitranspirant-Wirkstoff,
• – 0,0001 bis 5 Gew.-% Duftstoff(e),
• – 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-% sphärische poröse Polyamidpartikel, welche
• • einen zahlenmittleren Partikeldurchmesser von 1 bis 30 μm,
• • eine spezifische Oberfläche nach BET (gemäß DIN 66131 ) von 5 m²/g oder mehr,
• • eine Ölabsorptionskapazität (boiled linseed oil) von 200 ml/100 g oder mehr,
• • eine Kristallinität (DSC-Messung) von 40% oder größer, und
• • einen Quotienten von volumenmittlerem Partikeldurchmesser zu zahlenmittlerem Partikeldurchmesser von 1.0 bis 1.5

aufweisen.An object of the present application is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or antiperspirant composition containing - in each case based on the weight of the total Composition - in a cosmetic or dermatologically acceptable carrier

• At least one deodorant or antiperspirant active,
• From 0.0001 to 5% by weight of perfume (s),
• 0.1 to 10% by weight of spherical porous polyamide particles which
• A number-average particle diameter of 1 to 30 μm,
• • a BET specific surface area (according to DIN 66131 ) of 5 m ² / g or more,
• An oil-absorbing capacity (boiled linseed oil) of 200 ml / 100 g or more,
• • a crystallinity (DSC measurement) of 40% or greater, and
• A quotient of volume-average particle diameter to number-average particle diameter of 1.0 to 1.5

exhibit.

The Contain compositions of the invention at least one deodorant or antiperspirant active. These Substances as well as preferred representatives from the respective groups described below.

Antiperspirant components

Antiperspirant active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from the aluminum chlorohydrates, in particular the aluminum chlorohydrates having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl. 2-3 H ₂ O] _n , which may be present in unactivated or in activated (depolymerized) form , further aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol (PG) or polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or PEG, aluminum PG-dichlorhydrex or aluminum PEG-dichlorhydrex, aluminum hydroxide further selected from the aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate , Aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum-zirconium-chlorohydrate-glycine complexes such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, potassium aluminum sulfate (KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, alum), aluminum undecylenoyl collagen amino acid, sodium aluminum lactate + aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxylactate, aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chloride, the complexes of zinc and sodium salts, the complexes of lanthanum and cerium, the aluminum salts of lipoamino acids, aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorohydrate allantoinate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxylactate, Zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate and zirconium chlorohydrate. According to the invention, water solubility is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say amounts of at least 5 g of the antiperspirant active are soluble in 95 g of water at 20 ° C. The antiperspirant active ingredients can be used as aqueous solutions.

Especially preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient in a total amount of 3-25% by weight, preferably 5-22 Wt .-% and in particular 10-20 wt .-%, is included on the total weight of the active substance in the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises an astringent aluminum salt, especially aluminum chlorohydrate, for example, in powder form as Micro Dry ^® Ultrafine from Reheis, in the form of an aqueous solution as Locron ^® L from Clariant, as Chlorhydrol ^® as well as in activated form as Reach ^® 501 Reheis is distributed. Under the name ^Reach® 301 an aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is offered, which is likewise particularly preferred. The use of aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine complexes, which are, for example, by Reheis under the name Rezal ^® 36G commercially, may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

The Compositions according to the invention can in a further particularly preferred embodiment both at least one deodorant and at least one antiperspirant active ingredient contain.

Deodorant actives

According to the invention preferred Deodorant agents are odor absorbers, deodorizing ion exchangers, Germ-inhibiting agents, prebiotic active components as well Enzyme inhibitors or, more preferably, combinations of said Agents.

Silicate serve as odor absorbers, which also simultaneously the rheological Properties of the composition according to the invention beneficial support. To the invention especially preferred silicates include, in particular, phyllosilicates and among these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, Ilit, beidellite, nontronite, Saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talc. Further preferred Odor absorbers are, for example, zeolites, zinc ricinoleate, cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as. As alumina, and chlorophyll. They are preferably used in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-7% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, used.

According to the invention, germ-inhibiting or antimicrobial active ingredients are understood as meaning those active substances which reduce the number of skin germs participating in the formation of the odor or inhibit their growth. These organisms include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci. Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, Laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzethonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as. As farnesol, chlorophyllin copper complexes, α-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, particularly preferably α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available as Sensiva ^® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), carboxylic esters of mono-, di- and triglycerin (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil).

Further preferred deodorant agents are selected from so mentioned prebiotically active components, among which according to the invention Components are understood to be only or at least predominantly the odor-causing germs of the skin microflora inhibit, but not the desired, that is, the non-odoriferous Germs that belong to a healthy skin microflora. explicit are here z. B. conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts of Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances, involved.

Further preferred deodorant active ingredients are selected from the germ-inhibiting active perfume oils and Deosafe ^® -Parfümölen that, Haarmann and Reimer, by the company Symrise previously available.

The enzyme inhibitors include substances which inhibit the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition, in particular arylsulfatase, β-glucuronidase, aminoacylase, esterases, lipases and / or lipoxigenase, e.g. B. trialkylcitric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate. Preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one deodorant active ingredient is selected from arylsulfatase inhibitors, β-glucuronidase inhibitors, aminoacylase inhibitors, esterase inhibitors, lipase inhibitors and lipoxigenase inhibitors, α- Monoalkylglycerinethern with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical, in particular α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, phenoxyethanol, germ-inhibiting perfume oils, Deosafe ^® -Parfümölen (Deosafe ^® is a registered trademark of Symrise , formerly Haarmann & Reimer), prebiotic active compounds, trialkylcitric acid esters, in particular triethyl citrate, active substances which reduce or inhibit the growth of the number of skin germs from the group of staphylococci, corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci, zinc compounds, in particular zinc phenolsulfonate and zinc ricinoleate, organohalogen compounds, in particular triclosan, chlorhexidine, chlorhexidine gluconate and benzalkonium halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular cetylpyridinium chloride, odor absorbers, in particular silicates and zeolites, sodium bicarbonate, lantibiotics, and mixtures of the abovementioned substances. Further preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one deodorant active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.2-7 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.3 -5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.4-1.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the active substance of the deodorant active ingredient or the deodorant active ingredients in the overall composition.

The Compositions according to the invention can in a further particularly preferred embodiment both at least one deodorant and at least one antiperspirant active ingredient contain.

The Contain compositions of the invention - related on their weight - 0.0001 to 5% by weight perfume (s).

When Perfume component may include perfumes, perfume oils or perfume oil ingredients. perfume oils or fragrances can according to the invention individual Fragrance compounds, eg. B. the synthetic products of the type the esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons be. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, Phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, Dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DMBCA), phenylethylacetate, benzylacetate, Ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, Benzyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, Floramat, Melusat and Jasmecyclat. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and Ambroxan, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8-18 C atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. As the Jonone, alpha-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, to the hydrocarbons are mainly the terpenes like limonene and pinas. However, mixtures of different fragrances are preferred used, which together create an appealing scent.

Such Perfume oils can also be natural Fragrance mixtures contain as accessible from plant sources are, for. Pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose or ylang-ylang oil. Also suitable are muscatel sage oil, chamomile oil, Clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, Lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, Olbanum oil, galbanum oil and labdanum oil and orange blossom oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil.

Around to be perceptible, a perfume must be volatile, besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure the molecular weight of the chemical compound also plays an important role plays. So most perfumes have molecular weights up to about 200 Dalton, while molar masses of 300 Daltons and above tend to be constitute an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of one of several changes Fragrances of composite perfume or fragrance during evaporation, taking the odor impressions in "top note", "heart or middle note" (middle note or body) and "base note" (end note or dry out). Because the smell perception to a large Part also based on the odor intensity, there is the Top note of a perfume or fragrance not only from volatile Compounds, while the base note to the largest Part of less volatile, d. H. adherent fragrances consists. When composing perfumes can more volatile fragrances, for example, to certain Fixative, which prevents it from evaporating too quickly becomes. In the subsequent classification of the fragrances in "lighter volatile "or" adherent "fragrances is about the odor impression and whether the corresponding fragrance is perceived as the head or middle note, nothing said.

Adhesion-resistant fragrances which can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edel fir oil, Edeltannenzapfen oil, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce needle oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, ginger grass oil, Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, camomile oil, camphor oil, kanga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine oil, copaiba balsam, coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil, Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli Oil, Niaouli Oil, Olibanum Oil, Orange Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru Balsam Oil, Petitgrain Oil, Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil, Pimento Oil, Pine Oil, Rose Oil, Rosemary Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Celery Oil, Spik Oil, Star Aniseed Oil, Turpentine Oil, Thuja Oil, Thyme oil, Verbe oil, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil, lemon oil, lemon oil and cypress oil. But also the higher-boiling or solid fragrances of natural or synthetic origin can be used in the context of the present invention as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances. These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, α-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol , Bornyl acetate, α-bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, indole, iron, isoeugenol , Isoeugenolmethyle ether, isosafrole, jasmon, camphor, karvakrol, karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naphthyl ketone, methyl-n- nonyl acetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, muskon, β-naphthol ethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonyl aldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octyl aldehyde, p-oxy acetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, phenylacetic acid, Pulegone, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, salicylic acid methyl ester, hexyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymes, thymol, γ-undelactone, vaniline, veratrumaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid cylcate.

To the more volatile fragrances count in particular the lower-boiling fragrances natural or synthetic Origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more volatile fragrances are Alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl-mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, Linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, Phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

Especially preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one perfume component in a total amount of 0.0001 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.5-2 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included is.

• • einen zahlenmittleren Partikeldurchmesser von 1 bis 30 μm,
• • eine spezifische Oberfläche nach BET (gemäß DIN 66131 ) von 5 m²/g oder mehr,
• • eine Ölabsorptionskapazität (boiled linseed oil) von 200 ml/100 g oder mehr,
• • eine Kristallinität (DSC-Messung) von 40% oder größer, und
• • einen Quotienten von volumenmittlerem Partikeldurchmesser zu zahlenmittlerem Partikeldurchmesser von 1.0 bis 1.5

aufweisen.The compositions of the invention contain spherical porous polyamide particles which

• A number-average particle diameter of 1 to 30 μm,
• • a BET specific surface area (according to DIN 66131 ) of 5 m ² / g or more,
• An oil-absorbing capacity (boiled linseed oil) of 200 ml / 100 g or more,
• • a crystallinity (DSC measurement) of 40% or greater, and
• A quotient of volume-average particle diameter to number-average particle diameter of 1.0 to 1.5

exhibit.

The Production of the particles can generally by mixing a solution of polyamide in a suitable solvent and a liquid phase, insoluble in the polyamides are. Usually, the liquid phase is water-based, being achieved by suitable further solvents can that when mixing the liquids first A clear solution emerges from which the polyamide particles fail. In the preparation, mixing ratios have of polyamide solutions to liquid phase of 1 from 999 to 300 to 700, preferably from 2 to 998 to 250 to 750, proven.

polyamide solutions For example, with the solvents o-cresol, m-cresol, p-cresol, chlorophenol, phenol or mixtures of these be prepared. Formic acid has also proven itself.

The liquid phase in which polyamides are insoluble, is preferably miscible with the abovementioned solvents and also water miscible. Preferred liquid Phases are aliphatic alcohols, aliphatic ketones and mixtures from these. Have proven particularly useful methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, Isopropanol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isopropyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone and mixtures of these.

Preferably are mixtures of 10 to 98 wt .-% of aliphatic alcohols and / or Ketones with 2 to 90% by weight of water used as the liquid phase, from which the polyamide particles precipitate. For nucleation, the liquid phase high molecular weight polyalkylene glycols, z. B. PEG or PPG, in amounts of 0.5 to 10 wt .-% (based on the liquid Phase).

• – werden aliphatische Alkohole und/oder Ketone und Wasser gleichzeitig aber getrennt voneinander zu einer Polyamidlösung gegeben oder
• – wird eine zuvor bereitete Mischung aus aliphatischen Alkoholen und/oder Ketonen und Wasser zu einer Polyamidlösung gegeben oder
• – werden aliphatische Alkohole und/oder Ketone zu einer Polyamidlösung gegeben, wonach Wasser hinzugefügt wird oder
• – wird Wasser zu einer Polyamidlösung gegeben, wonach aliphatische Alkohole und/oder Ketone zugegeben werden oder
• – wird eine Polyamidlösung zu einer zuvor bereiteten Mischung aus aliphatischen Alkoholen und/oder Ketonen und Wasser gegeben oder
• – wird eine Polyamidlösung zu aliphatischen Alkoholen und/oder Ketonen und Wasser gegeben und anschließen Wasser hinzugefügt.

The order of mixing is not critical to the manufacturing process. In preferred method

• - Aliphatic alcohols and / or ketones and water are simultaneously but separately added to a polyamide solution or
• A previously prepared mixture of aliphatic alcohols and / or ketones and water is added to a polyamide solution or
• Aliphatic alcohols and / or ketones are added to a polyamide solution, after which water is added or
• Water is added to a polyamide solution, after which aliphatic alcohols and / or ketones are added or
• A polyamide solution is added to a previously prepared mixture of aliphatic alcohols and / or ketones and water or
• - Add a polyamide solution to aliphatic alcohols and / or ketones and water and then add water.

The Formation of the porous polyamide particles by precipitation takes place within one second up to two hours and can through Stirring are supported. Preferably takes place the mixing of the liquids and the formation of the particles at temperatures of 5 to 70 ° C, more preferably at 15 to 60 ° C.

To the period mentioned above, the polyamide particles by simply ekantieren, filtration or Zentriugieren be separated from the solvent mixture. It follows preferably a Wash with methanol and / or acetone and dry in vacuo.

All particularly preferred methods of production use a solution of polyamide 11 and / or polyamide 12 in phenol, based on their weight contains from 0.1 to 50% by weight of polymaid (e). When liquid phase is in such preferred method a Mixture of ethanol (preferably 50 to 90 wt .-%, based on the liquid phase), ethylene glycol (preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the liquid phase) and glycerol (Preferably 1 to 12 wt .-%, based on the liquid Phase).

The Polyamide solution in phenol (preferably 30 to 70% by weight, based on the mixture), the liquid phase (preferably 40 to 65% by weight, based on the mixture) and polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol having molecular weights> 1000 daltons (preferably 0.5 to 10 Wt .-%, based on the mixture) together to form a mixture stirred containing 0.05 to 20 wt .-% polyamide (s).

These Mixture, ideally a viscosity below 200 Pas is at 20 to 80 ° C, preferably at 25 to 65 ° C for 30 to 60 minutes.

The Spherical generated by the methods described above porous polyamide particles usually have number average particle diameter from 0.1 to 100 μm, preferably from 0.3 to 50 .mu.m, in particular from 0.5 to 25 μm. The ratio of volume median particle diameter (Dv) to number average particle diameter (Dn), which also has particle size distribution index (PDI = Dv / Dn) is preferably in the range of 1.0 to 1.5, preferably from 1.0 to 1.3.

The spherical porous polyamide particles have a BET specific surface area (in accordance with DIN 66131 ) of 5 m ² / g or more. Particularly preferred particles have a BET specific surface area (according to US Pat DIN 66131 ) from 5 to 80 m ² / g, preferably from 6 to 60 m ² / g and in particular from 7.5 to 50 m ² / g. Very particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the spherical porous polyamide particles have a BET specific surface area (in accordance with DIN 66131 ) of 6 m ² / g or more, preferably 7 m ² / g or more and especially 8 m ² / g or more.

Preferred porous polyamide particles have a porosity index (RI = S / S ₀ , where S _{0 is} the specific surface area, based on the number-average particle diameter and by the formula S ₀ = 6 / (ρ × Dn) in the ρ the density of the particles and Dn is the number average particle diameter, and where S is BET specific surface area) in the range of 3 to 100, preferably in the range of 5 to 70. The spherical porous polyamide particles have an average pore diameter of 0.01 to 0.20 μm, preferably 0.02 to 0.1 μm and a crystallinity (DSC measurement) of 40% or greater.

The Standard enthalpy (or specific heat of fusion) of the spherical ones porous polyamide particles are measured by DSC. in this connection is the sample under nitrogen atmosphere from room temperature (20 ° C) starting with a temperature increase rate of heated at 5 ° C / min. The standard enthalpy will be out of the area the heat absorption peak between 120 ° C and 230 ° C calculated. The crystallinity of the spherical porous Polyamide particles is the Qutient from the measured specific Heat of fusion and the standard enthalpy of crystalline polyamide, the latter for polyamide 12 being 209 J / g.

With regard to the oil absorption capacity of the particles used in the agents according to the invention, preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention in which the spherical porous polyamide particles have an oil absorption capacity (boiled linseed oil) of 200 ml / 100 g or more, preferably 220 ml / 100 g or more and in particular of 240 ml / 100 g or more.

The Compositions according to the invention can depending on the desired type of application in different product forms be made up. According to the invention preferred Compositions are characterized by being cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carriers as powder, in stick form, as aerosol spray, pump spray, liquid or gel-like roll-on application, cream, lotion, solution, Gel or applied to a substrate.

Further preferred embodiments of the invention are characterized characterized in that the cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable Carrier as powder, in stick form, as aerosol spray, pump spray, liquid or gel roll-on application, Cream, lotion, solution, gel or applied to a substrate is present.

Deodorant- or antiperspirant sticks may be in gelled form, on anhydrous base, based on a W / O emulsion, based on a O / W emulsion, based on a water-oil multiple emulsion, based on a nanoemulsion and based on a microemulsion, wherein the oil phase contains at least one silicone component or may consist of at least one silicone component. Farther the compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as deodorant or antiperspirant sticks, on anhydrous fat basis, based on a polyol-in-oil emulsion, Based on an oil-in-polyol emulsion, based on a Polyol-oil multiple emulsion, based on a nanoemulsion and on the basis of a microemulsion, wherein the polyol phase may be anhydrous or may only have a low water content. Gel sticks can be based on fatty acid soaps, Dibenzylidenesorbitol, N-acylamino acid amides, 12-hydroxystearic acid, Polyamides, polyamide derivatives, polysaccharides such as xanthan, polyglucomannans, Guar, konjac, celluloses or starches, polyacrylates, polyacrylate derivatives and other gelling agents.

Aerosol sprays, Pump sprays, roll-on applications and creams may be considered Water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water emulsion, Silicone oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil microemulsion, oil-in-water microemulsion, Silicone oil-in-water microemulsion, polyol-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-polyol emulsion, Polyol-oil multiple emulsion, anhydrous suspension, preferred anhydrous oil-based suspension, alcoholic solution, in particular ethanolic solution, hydroalcoholic solution, in particular solutions containing more than 50% by weight of a water-ethanol mixture, glycolic solution, especially as a solution in Propylene glycol, glycerine, dipropylene glycol and (under normal conditions) liquid polyethylene glycols, hydroglycolic solution, Polyol solution, water-polyol solution, aqueous Gel, lipogel and as an oil. All compositions mentioned can be thickened, for example on the basis of Fatty acid soaps, dibenzylidenesorbitol, N-acylamino acid amides, 12-hydroxystearic acid, carbomer and polyacrylates Carbopol type, polyacrylamides and polysaccharides, which are chemically and / or may be physically modified.

The Compositions may be transparent, translucent or be opaque.

Lipid or wax matrix

Provided the compositions of the invention in the form a pen, they preferably contain a lipid or Wax matrix comprising at least one lipid or wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C.

As a general rule are waxes of firm to brittle hard consistency, coarse to fine crystalline, translucent to opaque, but not vitreous, and melt above 50 ° C without decomposition. you are already slightly above the melting point of low viscosity and show a strong temperature-dependent consistency and solubility.

Preference according to the invention, for example, natural vegetable waxes, z. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugarcane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g. Beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti. For the purposes of the invention, it may be particularly preferred to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. As a wax component and chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, such as. As montan ester waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and Sasol waxes used. The synthetic waxes which are likewise preferred according to the invention include, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes, C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ -dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C _30-50 -alkyl beeswax and alkyl and alkylaryl esters of dimer fatty acids.

A particularly preferred wax component is selected from at least one ester of one saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alcohol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid. According to the invention, lactides, the cyclic double esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids of the corresponding chain length, also belong thereto. Esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols have been found to be particularly advantageous for the composition of the present invention because they give the antiperspirant preparation excellent sensory properties and overall high stability to the pin. The esters are composed of saturated branched or unbranched monocarboxylic acids and saturated branched or unbranched monohydric alcohols. Also esters of aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (eg 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated branched or unbranched alcohols can be used according to the invention, provided that the wax component has a melting point> 50 ° C. It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of esters of saturated branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 12 to 24 carbon atoms and the saturated branched or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 16 to 50 carbon atoms and having a melting point> 50 ° C have. In particular, C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates and C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, C _20-40 alkyl erucates and cetearyl behenate may be advantageous as the wax component. The wax or the wax components have a melting point> 50 ° C, preferably> 60 ° C, on.

A particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K82H or Kesterwachs ^® K80H and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. It is the synthetic imitation of the monoester fraction of beeswax and is characterized by its hardness, oil gelability and broad compatibility with lipid components. This wax can be used as a stabilizer and consistency regulator for W / O and O / W emulsions. Kester wax has the advantage that it has an excellent oil gelability even at low concentrations and so does not make the pencil mass too heavy and allows a velvety abrasion. A further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component cetearyl behenate, ie mixtures of cetyl behenate and stearyl behenate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K62 and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc..

Further preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _12-30 fatty acids, such as hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin) or glyceryl tri-12- hydroxystearate, further synthetic Vollester of fatty acids and glycols or polyols containing 2-6 carbon atoms as long as they have a melting point above 50 ° C, for example, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ Acid Triglyceride (Syncrowax HGL-C ^®). According to the invention hydrogenated castor oil, obtainable, for example, as wax component is available. B. as a commercial product Cutina ^® HR, particularly preferred. Further preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids, in particular myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid and mixtures of these compounds, eg. B. Syncrowax ^® AW 1C (C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ fatty acids) or Cutina ^® FS 45 (palmitic and stearic acid).

Preferred deodorant or antiperspirant invention pins are characterized in that the lipid or wax component a) is selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric ^C 16 ^- C ₆₀ alkanol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid, cetyl behenate in particular, Stearyl behenate and C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Particularly preferred lipid or wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures of cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid. Further particularly preferred lipid or wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures of C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ -alkyl stearate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid.

Further preferred deodorant or antiperspirant sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the lipid or wax component (s) is contained in total in amounts of from 4 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% by weight, based on the total composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester (s) is / are comprised of a saturated C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ monohydric alcohol and a C ₈ -C ₃₆ saturated monocarboxylic acid which is / are the lipid or wax component (s) total of 2-10 wt .-%, preferably 2-6 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Oil-in-water emulsifiers

The compositions according to the invention which are formulated as an emulsion, in particular as an oil-in-water emulsion or a polyol-in-water emulsion, preferably comprise at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value of more than 7 This is the subject man well-known emulsifiers, such as in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd ed., 1979, Vol. 8, pp. 913-916 , are listed. For ethoxylated products, the HLB value is calculated according to the formula HLB = (100-L): 5, where L is the weight fraction of the lipophilic groups, that is the fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups, in the ethylene oxide adducts, expressed in weight percent.

at the selection of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers suitable according to the invention it is particularly preferred to use a mixture of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers to use the stability of the invention To optimally adjust pen compositions. The individual emulsifier components deliver a share of the total HLB value or mean HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture according to their proportion of the total amount of the oil-in-water emulsifiers. According to the invention, the average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture 10-19, preferably 12-18 and more preferably 14-17. In order to achieve such average HLB values, preference is given to oil-in-water emulsifiers from the HLB value ranges 10-14, 14-16 and if necessary 16-19 combined. Of course Also, the oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures can nonionic emulsifiers with HLB values in the range of> 7-10 and 19-20 included; Such emulsifier mixtures can Also preferred according to the invention. The deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention but may be in another preferred embodiment even a single oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB value in the range of 10-19.

Preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers are selected from ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols with an average of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ - Carboxylic acids with an average of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, silicone copolyols with ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols esterified with 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkanols have the formula R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H, where R ¹ is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the middle Number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, Petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are suitable.

The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids have the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH, where R ¹ is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide Units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures. Also adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.

Particular preference is given to using the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -carboxylic acids with in each case 10-30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances, in particular ceteth-12, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth- 12, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Laureth-12 and Beheneth-20. Furthermore, preference is given to using C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides. C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products under the trademark Chen Plantacare ^® are available, a glucosidically bonded C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group containing at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization for 1-2, particularly at 1.1-1.4, is located. Particularly preferred C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.

Also ethoxylated sterols, in particular ethoxylated soy sterols According to the invention suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers The degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, to have an HLB value greater 7 show. Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol.

Furthermore, preferably partial esters of polyglycerols with 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters esterified used, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7. Particularly preferred Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, diglycerol, Triglycerinmonocaprylat, Triglycerinmonocaprat, triglycerol, Tetraglycerinmonocaprylat, Tetraglycerinmonocaprat, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprylat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, hexa are glycerol, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, Hexaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerinmonocaprylat, Decaglycerinmonocaprat, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monomyristate, Decaglycerinmonoisostearat, decaglycerol monostearate, Decaglycerinmonooleat, Decaglycerinmonohydroxystearat, Decaglycerindicaprylat, Decaglycerindicaprat, Decaglycerindilaurat, Decaglycerindimyristat, Decaglycerindiisostearat, Decaglycerindistearat, Decaglycerindioleat, Decaglycerindihydroxystearat, Decaglycerintricaprylat, Decaglycerintricaprat, Decaglycerintrilaurat, Decaglycerintrimyristat, Decaglycerintriisostearat, Decaglycerintristearat, Decaglyce rintrioleate and decaglycerol trihydroxystearate.

Especially preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier in a total amount of 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1-4 wt .-% and most preferably 1.5-3 Wt .-%, based on the total composition, is included.

Water-in-oil emulsifier

Preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as an emulsion or stick, preferably further comprise at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, selected from the mono- and diesters of Ethylene glycol and the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof, as consistency regulator and / or water binder. According to the invention, the mono- and diesters are preferred. C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid radicals preferred according to the invention are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid radicals; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue. Nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers particularly preferred according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, particularly preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than / equal to 7.0, for example as commercial products Cutina ^® PES (INCI: Pentaerythrityl distearate), Cutina ^® AGS (INCI: Glycol Distearate) or Cutina ^® EGMS (INCI: glycol stearate) available. These commercial products are already mixtures of mono- and diesters (in the pentaerythrityl esters are also tri- and tetraester contained). According to the invention it may be preferable to use only a single water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers. A commercial product such as Cutina ^® PES is meant, for example, a technical mixture. In addition to the stated water-in-oil emulsifiers based on the ethylene glycol or pentaerythrityl esters, in a preferred embodiment, at least one further nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7, 0 should be included, the proportion of the total weight of nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers with an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, but preferably should not be greater than 80%. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain the at least one additional water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 only in a proportion by weight of not more than 10% or are free of additional water -in-oil emulsifiers.

Some of these additional suitable emulsifiers are, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Vol. 8, page 913 , listed. For ethoxylated adducts, the HLB value, as already mentioned, can also be calculated.

• – lineare gesättigte Alkanole mit 12–30 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere mit 16–22 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere Cetylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Behenylalkohol und Lanolinalkohol oder Gemische dieser Alkohole, wie sie bei der technischen Hydrierung von pflanzlichen und tierischen Fettsäuren erhältlich sind,
• – Ester und insbesondere Partialester aus einem Polyol mit 3–6 C-Atomen und linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 12–30, insbesondere 14–22 C-Atomen, die hydroxyliert sein können. Solche Ester oder Partialester sind z. B. die Mono- und Diester von Glycerin oder die Monoester von Propylenglycol mit linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten C₁₂-C₃₀-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können, insbesondere diejenigen mit Palmitin- und Stearinsäure, die Sorbitanmono-, -di- oder -triester von linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten C₁₂-C₃₀-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können, insbesondere diejenigen von Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure oder von Mischungen dieser Fettsäuren und die Methylglucosemono- und -diester von linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten C₁₂- C₃₀-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können;
• – Sterine, also Steroide, die am C3-Atom des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine, z. B. Cholesterin, Lanosterin) wie auch aus Pflanzen (Phytosterine, z. B. Ergosterin, Stigmasterin, Sitosterin) und aus Pilzen und Hefen (Mykosterine) isoliert werden und die niedrig ethoxyliert (1–5 EO) sein können;
• – Alkanole und Carbonsäuren mit jeweils 8–24 C-Atomen, insbesondere mit 16–22 C-Atomen, in der Alkylgruppe und 1–4 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten pro Molekül, die einen HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0 aufweisen,
• – Glycerinmonoether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8–30, insbesondere 12–18 Kohlenstoffatomen.
• – Partialester von Polyglycerinen mit n = 2 bis 10 Glycerineinheiten und mit 1 bis 5 gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäureresten verestert, sofern sie einen HLB-Wert von kleiner/gleich 7 aufweisen,
• – sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen.

Preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers are:

• Linear saturated alkanols with 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular with 16-22 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, as obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids,
• - Esters and in particular partial esters of a polyol having 3-6 C-atoms and linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 C-atoms, which may be hydroxylated. Such esters or partial esters are, for. The mono- and diesters of glycerol or the monoesters of propylene glycol with linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, especially those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or of mixtures of these fatty acids and the methylglucose mono- and diesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated;
• Sterols, ie steroids, which carry a hydroxyl group at the C3 atom of the steroid skeleton and both from animal tissue (zoosterols, eg cholesterol, lanosterol) as well as from plants (phytosterols, eg ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol ) and from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols) which may be low ethoxylated (1-5 EO);
• Alkanols and carboxylic acids having in each case 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, in the alkyl group and 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule which have an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7, Have 0,
• - Glycerinmonoether of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms.
• Esterified partial esters of polyglycerols having n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and having 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, if they have an HLB value of less than or equal to 7,
• - And mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

According to the invention, it may be preferable to use only a single additional water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two additional water-in-oil emulsifiers. For example, a commercial product such as Cutina GMS ^® is understood to be a technical mixture, which is a mixture of glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate.

Particularly advantageous additional water-in-oil emulsifiers are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, in particular in the form of the commercial products Cutina ^® GMS and Cutina ^® MD (ex Cognis), glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monohydroxystearate, glyceryl monooleate , Glycerylmonolanolat, Glyceryldimyristat, Glyceryldipalmitat, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monomyristate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, Sorbitansesquistearat, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sucrose distearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), steareth 5, oleth-2, diglycerol monostearate, diglycerol monoisostearate, diglycerol monooleate, diglycerol dihydroxystearate, diglycerol distearate, diglycerol dioleate, triglycerol distearate, tetraglycer inmonostearate, tetraglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol tristearate, decaglycerol pentastearate, decaglycerin pentahydroxystearate, decaglycerol pentaisostearate, decaglycerol pentaoleate, soy sterol, PEG-1 soy sterol, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-2 monolaurate and PEG-2 monostearate.

Especially preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one water-in-oil emulsifier in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-8.0 Wt .-%, and particularly preferably 1-4 wt .-%, based on the total composition, are included. Furthermore you can also amounts of 2-3 wt .-%, based on the total weight the composition according to the invention extraordinarily be preferred.

The following table summarizes various oil-in-water emulsifiers and water-in-oil emulsifiers and their HLB values. The HLB values can also be calculated according to Griffin the, as it is for example in the ROMPP Chemie Lexikon, especially in the online version of November 2003 and the manuals cited there under the heading "HLB system" by Fiedler, Kirk-Othmer and Janistyn are tabulated or, if there is different information in the literature on the HLB value of a substance, that HLB value for the inventive Teaching, which comes closest to the value calculated according to Griffin.

If Do not detect a unique HLB value this way is the HLB value that the manufacturer of the emulsifier indicates, for the teaching of the invention to use. If this too is not possible, the HLB value is to determine experimentally.

HLB value Chemical name

(out H. Janistyn, Handbook of cosmetics and fragrances, Hüthig-Verlag Heidelberg, 3rd edition, 1978, Volume 1, page 470 and Volume 3, pages 68-78 )) 1 Triglycerides of saturated fatty acids glyceryl trioleate 1.5 Ethylene glycol 1.6 Pur-Celli oil 1.8 Sorbitan trioleate glycerol dioleate 2.1 sorbitan 2.4 Propylenglycollactostearat 2.7 Glycerol monooleate sorbitol dioleate 2.8 Glycerol monostearate Propylene glycol mono- / distearate, not self-emulsifying 2.9 ethylene glycol 3.0 Decaglycerol decaoleate Decaglycerol decastate Generol 122 (rapeseed sterols) sucrose distearate 3.1 Decaglycerol decaoleate Glyceryl monoride oleate Pentaerythrityl monostearate Pentaerythrityl sesquioleate 3.2 Ethylene glycol monodistearate, non self-emulsifying glycol stearate 3.3 glycerol 3.4 propylene glycol 3.5 Ethylene glycol monostearate pentaerythrityl monooleate polyethylene glycol (100) monooleate 3.6 Glycerol mono- / dioleate, not self-emulsifying monoethoxylauryl ether 3.7 Sorbitan sesquioleate (Dehymuls SSO) 3.8 Glycerol monodistearate, not self-emulsifying Polyethylene glycol (100) Monostearate Diglycerol sesquioleate N, N-dimethyl caproamide Pentaerythritol monotallate Propylene glycol monolaurate 4.0 Decaglycerinoctaoleat 4.3 Sorbitan monooleate (Dehymuls SMO) diethylene glycol monostearate 4.4 1.2-propylene glycol monodistearate, self-emulsifying 4.5 Glycerol monostearate palmitate (90%), non-self-emulsifying propylene glycol monolaurate 4.7 Sorbitan monostearate (Dehymuls SMS) Diethylene glycol monooleate 4.8 Pentaerythritmonolaurat 4.9 Polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl alcohol (polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl ether) polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl alcohol (polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether) 5.0 Ethylene glycol monodistearate Generol 122 E5 (PEG-5 soy sterol) polyethylene glycol (100) monoricinoleate polyethyleneglycol (200) distearate polyglyceryl-3-isostearate (eg Isolan GI 34 from Tego) 5.9 Polyethylene glycol (200) dilaurate 6.0 Decaglycerin tetraoleate Polyethylene glycol (100) Monolaurate Polyethylene glycol (200) Dioleate 6.1 Diethylene glycol monolaurate (diglycollaurate) 6.3 Polyethylene glycol (300) dilaurate 6.4 Glycerol monoricinoleate Glycerol sorbitan monolaurate 6.5 Diethylene glycol monolaurate Sodium stearoyl-2-lactylate 6.7 sorbitan 6.8 Glycerol monococoate glycerol monolaurate 7.0 Polyoxyethylene (2) C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ fatty alcohol ether, Laureth-2 (Dehydol LS 2) sucrose distearate 7.2 Polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate sucrose dioleate 7.4 Polyethylene glycol (100) monolaurate sucrose dipalmitate 7.5 Saccharosedipalmitat 7.6 Glycerinsorbitanlaurat 7.8 Polyethylene glycol (400) distearate 7.9 Polyethylene glycol (200) monostearate polyoxyethylene (3) tridecyl alcohol 8-8.2 Polyethylene glycol (400) distearate 8.0 Polyoxyethylene (3) C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ fatty alcohol ether, laureth-3 (Dehydol LS 3) N, N-dimethyl lauramide Nattiumlauroyllactylat, Natriumlauroyl-2-lactylate polyethylene glycol (200) monooleate, polyethylene glycol (220) monotallate, polyethylene glycol (1500) dioleate, polyoxyethylene (4) oleyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (4) stearylcetylether 8.2 triglycerol 8.3 Diethylenglycolmonolaurat 8.4 Polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether polyoxyethylene glycol (400) dioleate 8.5 Sodium caproyl lactylate polyethylene glycol (200) monostearate sorbitan monooleate 8.6 Sorbitan monolaurate (Dehymuls SML) Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate 8.8 Polyoxyethylene (4) myristyl ether polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate 8.9 Nonylphenol, polyoxyethylated with 4 moles of EO 9.0 Oleth-5 (eg Eumulgin O 5) 9.2 to 9.7 Polyoxyethylene (4) lauryl alcohol (depending on the commercial product, eg Brij 30, Dehydol LS 4) 9.3 Polyoxyethylene (4) tridecyl alcohol 9.6 Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate 9.8 Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate 10-11 Polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate 10.0 didodecyldimethylammonium 10.0 Polyethylene glycol (200) Monolaurate Polyethylene glycol (400) Dilaurate Polyethylene glycol (600) Dioleate Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate Polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate 10.2 Polyoxyethylene (40) sorbitol hexaoleate 10.4 to 10.6 Polyoxyethylene glycol (600) distearate 10.5 Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate 10.6 sucrose monostearate 10.7 sucrose monooleate 11 to 11.4 Polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate 11.0 Polyethylene glycol (350) Monostearate Polyethylene glycol (400) Mono-taratate Polyoxyethylene glycol (7) Monostearate Polyoxyethylene glycol (8) Mono-oleate Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan trioleate Polyoxyethylene (6) tridecyl alcohol 11.1 Polyethylene glycol (400) monostearate 11.2 Polyoxyethylene (9) monostearate sucrose monooleate sucrose monostearate 11.4 Polyoxyethylene (50) sorbitol hexaoleate sucrose monotallate sucrose stearate palmitate 11.6 Polyoxyethylene (400) monoricinoleate 11.7 Sucrose monosaccharide sucrose monopalmitate 12.0 PEG-10 soy sterol (eg, Generol 122 E 10) triethanolamine oleate 12.2 to 12.3 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated with 8 moles of EO 12.2 Saccharosemonomyristat 12.4 Sucrose monolaurate polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl ether polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl ether 12.5 Polyoxyethylene (10) stearylcetylether 12.7 tridecyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (8) 12.8 Polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monolaurate sucrose monococoate 12.9 Polyoxyethylene (10) cetyl ether 13 Glycerol monostearate, ethoxylated (20 mol EO) 13.0 Eumulgin O 10 Eumulgin 286 Eumulgin B 1 (Ceteareth-12) 13.0 C12 fatty amines, ethoxylated (5 moles EO) 13.1 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated (9.5 mol EO) 13.2 Polyethylene glycol (600) monostearate polyoxyethylene (16) tall oil 13.3 Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate 13.5 Nonylphenol ethoxylated (10.5 mol EO) polyethylene glycol (600) monooleate 13.7 Polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl alcohol polyethylene glycol (660) monotalate polyethylene glycol (1500) monostearate polyoxyethylene glycol (1500) dioleate 13.9 Polyethylene glycol (400) monococoate polyoxyethylene (9) monolaurate 14-16 Eumulgin HRE 40 (castor oil, ethoxylated with 40 EO and hydrogenated) 14.0 Polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl ether polyoxyethylene (12) tridecyl alcohol 14.2 Polyoxyethylene (15) stearyl alcohol 14.3 Polyoxyethylene (15) stearylcetylether 14.4 Mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols with 12 moles EO 14.5 Polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl alcohol 14.8 Polyoxyethylene glycol (600) monolaurate 14.9 to 15.2 Sorbitan monostearate ethoxylated with 20 EO (eg Eumulgin SMS 20) 15 to 15.9 Sorbitan monooleate, ethoxylated with 20 EO (eg Eumulgin SMO 20) 15.0 PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (eg Cutina E24) PEG-40 castor oil (eg Eumulgin RO 40) decyl glucoside (Oramix NS10) dodecyl glucoside (Plantaren APG 600) dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride nonylphenol ethoxylated with 15 moles EO polyethylene glycol ( 1000) monostearate polyoxyethylene (600) monooleate 15-17 Eumulgin HRE 60 (castor oil, ethoxylated with 60 EO and hydrogenated) 15.3 C12 fatty amines polyoxyethylated with 12 moles EO polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ethers 15.4 Polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl cetyl ether (eg, eumulgin B 2 (ceteareth-20)) 15.5 stearyl polyoxyethylene (20) 15.6 Polyoxyethylene glycol (1000) monostearate polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate 15.7 Polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether 15.9 Dinatriumtriethanolamindistearylheptaglycolethersulfosuccinat 16.0 Nonylphenol ethoxylated with 20 moles of EO polyoxyethylene (25) propylene glycol stearate 16 to 16.8 Polyoxyethylene (30) monostearate 16.3 to 16.9 Polyoxyethylene (40) monostearate 16.5 to 16.7 Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (eg Eumulgin SML 20) 16.6 sorbitol polyoxyethylene (20) 16.7 C18 fatty amines, polyoxyethylated with 5 moles EO polyoxyethylene (23) lauryl alcohol 17.0 Ceteareth-30, z. B. Eumulgin B 3 Octylglucoside (Triton CG 110) Polyoxyethylene (30) glyceryl monolaurate 17.1 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated with 30 moles of EO 17.4 Polyoxyethylene (40) stearyl alcohol

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value above 8 not more than 20 wt .-%, preferably at most 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably at most 10 wt .-% , especially be Preferably at most 7 wt .-%, more preferably at most 4 wt .-% and most preferably at most 3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention is.

oils

Preferred compositions of the present invention, which are in the form of an emulsion, suspension or stick, preferably further contain at least one oil which is liquid at 20 ° C and which is not a perfume component and is not an essential oil. Oils preferred according to the invention are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G 16, Guerbitol ^® T 16) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ^® 18, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24. Further preferred oil components are mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, z. For example, the commercial product Cetiol ^® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate).

Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids. Particularly suitable, the use of natural oils, eg. For example, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. But are also synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z. As the commercial products Myritol ^® 318, Myritol ^® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ^® 812 (Hüls) with unbranched fatty acid residues and glyceryl triisostearin and the commercial products Estol ^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ^® GTEH (Cognis) with branched fatty acid residues.

Further oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / Dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

Further oils which are particularly preferred _{according to the} invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C _8-22 -alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ^®).

Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These include, hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ^® 868). Also conditionally suitable are isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl, cetearyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl, butyloctanoic-2-butyl octanoate, Diisotridecylacetat, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate. Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from the adducts of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with monohydric or polyhydric C _3-22 alkanols, such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ^®), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® E). Further preferred oil components according to the invention are selected from the C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C _14/15 alkanols, eg. B. C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate, and branched in the 2-position C _12/13 alkanols can be obtained under the trademark Cosmacol ^® by the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ^® ESI , Cosmacol® ^® EMI and Cosmacol® ^® EIT. Further inventively preferred oil components are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC) or the esters of DE 197 56 454 A1 ,

Further preferred oil components according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols. It can erfindungsge According extraordinarily be preferred to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.

Further According to the invention, preferred oil components are selected from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

According to the invention preferred Silicone oils are selected from dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Further inventively preferred silicone oils are selected from volatile silicone oils which may be cyclic, such as. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning, or linear, z. As hexamethyldisiloxane (L ₂ ), octamethyltrisiloxane (L ₃ ), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L ₄ ), any two and three mixtures of L ₂ , L ₃ and / or L ₄ , as described, for. B. in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ^® 200 (0.65 cSt), and Dow Corning ^® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are included.

Further inventively preferred silicone oils are selected from non-volatile higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available z. Example under the name Dow Corning ^® 190, Dow Corning ^® 200 fluid having viscosities in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 5-50 cSt, or even 5-10 cSt, and Baysilon ^® 350 M.

According to the invention preferred natural and synthetic hydrocarbons are selected from paraffinic oils, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, the ^®, for example, under the designation Emery ^® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ^® from Albemarle or Nexbase 2004G from Nestle are available, as well as 1 , 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

Especially preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the / at 20 ° C liquid / n / e in a total amount of 0.1-80% by weight, preferably 2-20 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 3-15 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is / are.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, a proportion of the oil components of at least 80% by weight has a refractive index n _D of 1.39-1.51. It is particularly preferred if 5-40-50 wt .-%, most preferably 10-12-25-30 wt .-% of the oil components has a refractive index n _D of 1.43-1.51, preferably 1.44-1 , 49, more preferably 1.45-1.47-1.485, at 20 ° C (measured at λ = 589 nm).

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions as water-in-oil emulsion are prefilled, preferably further contain at least one Water-in-oil emulsifier. The at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is preferably in an amount of 0.5-5 wt .-%, especially preferably 1.0-1.5-2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the emulsion.

A particularly preferred group of water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention are the poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) alkylene glycol-modified silicones whose previous INCI name was Dimethicone Copolyol, with the current INCI names PEG-x Dimethicone (with x = 2-20, preferably 3-17, more preferably 11-12), bis-PEG-y dimethicones (with y = 3-25, preferably 4-20), PEG / PPG a / b dimethicones (where a and b independently of one another represent numbers of 2-30, preferably 3-30 and particularly preferred 12-20, in particular 14-18,), bis-PEG / PPG-c / d dimethicones (where c and d independently of one another represent numbers of 10) 25, preferably 14-20 and more preferably 14-16) and bis-PEG / PPG-e / f PEG / PPG g / h dimethicones (where e, f, g and h independently of one another represent numbers of 10-20, preferably 14-18 and more preferably 16, stand). Particular preference is given to PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones, which are commercially available in a 1: 9 mixture with cyclomethicone as DC 3225 C or DC 5225 C, PEG / PPG-4/12 dimethicone, sold under the name Abil B 8852 is available as well as Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, which is commercially available in a mixture with Cyclomethicone as Abil EM 97 (Goldschmidt), Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, under the name Abil B 8832 is available, PEG / PPG-5/3 trisiloxanes (Silsoft 305), and PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicones (Silsoft 430 and Silsoft 440).

Further inventively preferred W / O emulsifiers are poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) alkylene glycol-modified silicones which are hydrophobically modified with C ₄ -C ₁₈ -alkyl groups, particularly preferably cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (formerly: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate under the trade name Abil WE 09), furthermore alkyl methicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicones Ethoxy Glucosides.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions further preferably contain at least contain a skin-cooling agent. According to the invention suitable Skin-cooling agents are, for example, menthol, isopulegol as well as menthol derivatives, e.g. Menthyl lactate, menthyl glycolate, menthyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, Menthyl methyl ether, menthoxypropanediol, menthone glycerol acetal (9-methyl-6- (1-methylethyl) -1,4-dioxaspiro (4.5) decane-2-methanol), Monomenthyl succinate and 2-hydroxymethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexanol. Preferred skin-cooling active ingredients are menthol, isopulegol, Menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol and menthylpyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and mixtures of these substances, in particular mixtures of menthol and menthyl lactate, menthol, menthol glycolate and menthyl lactate, menthol and menthoxypropanediol or menthol and isopulegol. Particularly according to the invention it is preferred that at least one skin-cooling agent in a total amount of 0.01-1 wt%, more preferably 0.02-0.5 wt%, and highly preferred 0.05-0.2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight the composition is included.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions formulated as a propellant-driven aerosol are containing at least one propellant. Preferred blowing agents (Propellant gases) are propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, iso-pentane, iso-pentene, methane, ethane, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, Air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1,1,1,3-tetrafluoroethane, heptafluoro-n-propane, Perfluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, and indeed both individually and in combination. Also hydrophilic propellants, like z. As carbon dioxide, can be advantageous in the context of the present Invention be used when the proportion of hydrophilic gases low is selected and lipophilic propellant gas (eg propane / butane) in excess. Particularly preferred are propane, n-butane, iso-butane and mixtures of these propellants. It has shown that the use of n-butane as the only propellant according to the invention particularly may be preferred.

The Amount of blowing agent is preferably 20-80 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 30-70 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 40-50 wt .-%, each based on the total weight the preparation consisting of the inventive Composition and the propellant.

When Compressed gas tanks come from metal vessels (Aluminum, tinplate, tin), protected or non-splitting Plastic or glass coated on the outside with plastic is in question, in their selection pressure and fracture resistance, corrosion resistance, easy filling as well as aesthetic aspects, Handiness, printability etc. play a role. Specific Interior protective lacquers ensure corrosion resistance towards the composition according to the invention.

As mentioned above, the inventive Prepared compositions in various forms be used, for example as (possibly oil and grease-free) gel, as a cream, in stick form, as a liquid or gelatinous Roll-on application, as a soaked flexible substrate (Pad), but also as powder or spray.

invention Agents may be in solid, semi-solid, liquid, disperse, emulsified, suspended or gelatinous Form present. Furthermore, the inventive Means be made up as an aerosol, that is, they are packed in a pressure vessel from which they help with a propellant can be sprayed. Farther can the agents of the invention as propellant-free pump spray sprayed.

ever after dosage form contain the inventive Compositions further active ingredients and / or adjuvants.

polyols

Preferred compositions according to the invention also contain at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3-20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof. Preferably, these components are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2- Pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tri propylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred.

Preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3-20 ethylene oxide units is selected from 1,2 Propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerin, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

Particularly preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3 -30 wt .-%, preferably 8-25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10-18 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.

water

preferred Compositions according to the invention contain water. The proportion of water is preferably 0.1-99 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 3 to 80 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 10 to 70% by weight, more preferably 15-60% by weight, 20-50 wt .-%, 30-40 wt .-%, each based on the overall composition.

Low-melting lipid or wax component

Particularly preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one lipid or wax component having a melting point in the range of 25-50 ° C selected from coconut fatty acid glycerol mono-, di- and triesters, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter ) and esters of saturated, monohydric C ₈ -C ₁₈ alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids and mixtures of these substances. These lower melting lipid or wax components allow consistency optimization of stick-shaped or creamy products and minimization of visible residue on the skin. Especially preferred are products sold under the INCI name Cocoglycerides, in particular the commercial products Novata ^® (ex Cognis), particularly preferably Novata AB ^®, a mixture of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ - mono-, di- and triglycerides, which in the range of 30- 32 ° C, as well as the products of the Softisan series (Sasol Germany GmbH) with the INCI name Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides, in particular Softisan 100, 133, 134, 138, 142. Further preferred esters of saturated, monohydric C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ - alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids are stearyl laurate, cetearyl (z. B. Crodamol ^® CSS), cetyl palmitate (z. B. Cutina ^® CP) and myristyl myristate (z. B. Cetiol ^® MM).

Further particularly preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions are characterized that the at least one lipid or wax component having a melting point in the range of 25 - <50 ° C in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 5-18% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 6-15% by weight, based on the total composition, is included.

fillers

Particularly preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they further contain at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate filler for improving the pen consistency and the sensory properties. In a highly preferred embodiment of this filler is selected from optionally modified starches (for. Example, of corn, rice, potatoes) and starch derivatives, which are, if desired, pregelatinized, in particular starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ^®, cellulose and cellulose derivatives, silica, silicic acids, e.g. , As Aerosil ^® types, spherical Polyalkylsesquisiloxan particles (especially Aerosil ^® R972 and Aerosil ^® 200 V from Degussa), silica gels, talc, kaolin, clays, z. Bentonites, magnesium aluminum silicates, boron nitride, lactoglobulin derivatives, e.g. As sodium C _8-16 -Isoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat from Brooks Industries available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE, glass powders, polymer powders, in particular of polyolefins Polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, e.g. As nylon, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, or silicones, and mixtures of these substances. Polymer powder based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Polytrap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning) available. Other polymer powders, e.g. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Other polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for. B. polymethacrylates (Micro Pearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder (ACCUREL ^® EP 400 from AKZO), or silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).

Especially preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate filler in a total amount from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably 5-20% by weight, especially preferably 8-15% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain.

One Another object of the present invention is the use of spherical porous polyamide particles in cosmetics or dermatological deodorant or antiperspirant compositions, preferably in deodorant or antiperspirant sprays and / or sticks.

In terms of preferred execution forums of the invention Use applies mutandis mutandis that to the invention Agents or compositions said.

• • einen zahlenmittleren Partikeldurchmesser von 1 bis 30 μm,
• • eine spezifische Oberfläche nach BET (gemäß DIN 66131 ) von 5 m²/g oder mehr,
• • eine Ölabsorptionskapazität (boiled linseed oil) von 200 ml/100 g oder mehr,
• • eine Kristallinität (DSC-Messung) von 40% oder größer, und
• • einen Quotienten von volumenmittlerem Partikeldurchmesser zu zahlenmittlerem Partikeldurchmesser von 1.0 bis 1.5

aufweisen.Particularly preferred uses according to the invention are characterized in that spherical porous polyamide particles are used, which

• A number-average particle diameter of 1 to 30 μm,
• • a BET specific surface area (according to DIN 66131 ) of 5 m ² / g or more,
• An oil-absorbing capacity (boiled linseed oil) of 200 ml / 100 g or more,
• • a crystallinity (DSC measurement) of 40% or greater, and
• A quotient of volume-average particle diameter to number-average particle diameter of 1.0 to 1.5

exhibit.

All particularly preferred uses according to the invention serve to improve perfume transmission on the treated skin surfaces.

Examples:

To 98.0 g of phenol heated to 70 ° C were added to 10.0 g of ethylene glycol, 2.5 g PEG 1450 and 2.5 g PPG 3000 given. In this mixture were 2.0 g of polyamide 12 (molecular weight 14 kDa) was added. The mixture was stirred at 70 ° C for 24 hours to give all polyamide to solve. The resulting solution contained 1.74 Wt .-% polyamide.

Out 14.0 g of glycerol and 9.5 g of ethylene glycol became an alcohol mixture produced.

The both solutions were heated to 30 ° C and mixed together with stirring and for ten minutes stirred (300 rpm). Immediately after stopping the stirring it was possible to measure a viscosity of 36 mPas (30 ° C) become. The mixture was at 30 ° C for 24 hours tempered. Approximately 90 minutes after completion of stirring the mixture became slightly cloudy, and the precipitate the polyamide particle started.

To 24 hours, the precipitated particles were separated by filtration and washed with a liter of Mathanol. The washed particles were dried at 60 ° C for 12 hours in vacuo.

The number average particle diameter was 15.1 μm; the volume-average particle diameter was 15.4 μm; the particle size distribution index was 1.02; the specific surface area was measured at 5.4 m ² / g; the porosity index was 15.1; the average pore diameter was 0.026 μm, the crystallinity was 69%.

These particles were used in the compositions described below: As Aero sol sprayable W / O emulsions Example no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Dow Corning 345 Fluid 16.7 17.6 16.4 9.0 18.8 13.5 Dow Corning 200 Fluid 5 cst / / / 7.5 / 6.4 1,2-propylene glycol 9.1 2.4 / / 6.0 7.2 dipropylene / / 2.4 17.0 / / PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 1.4 1.4 1.2 1.0 1.6 1.5 ethylhexyl palmitate 2.3 2.4 2.3 1.7 2.0 / phenoxyethanol / / 0.4 / 0.3 0.5 Microdry 33.0 36.9 / / 31.9 30.0 ^REACH® 301 / / 30.0 24.0 / / tocopheryl acetate / / 0.5 / 0.3 / α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether / / 0.2 / 0.3 / triethylcitrate / / 0.2 / / 0.3 Cosmacol® ^® EMI / / / / 2.0 2.6 Cooling Agent 0.5 / / / / / isopulegol / 0.5 / / 0.5 / spherical porous polyamide particles 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 5.0 Perfume 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Example no. 7 8th 9 10 11 12 Dow Corning 345 Fluid 20.0 18.0 18.0 18.0 18.0 18.0 1,2-propylene glycol 2.4 9.1 9.1 9.1 9.1 9.1 PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 1.4 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Microdry 36.6 33.0 33.0 33.0 33.0 33.0 α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 spherical porous polyamide particles 0.5 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 Perfume 1.0 1.0 0.5 1.0 2.5 0.25 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - US 4831061 [0008]
• EP 1582194 A1 [0009]
• - JP 2002-80629 [0010]
• DE 19756454 A1 [0083]

Cited non-patent literature

• - DIN 66131 [0011]
• - DIN 66131 [0031]
• - DIN 66131 [0043]
• - DIN 66131 [0043]
• - DIN 66131 [0043]
• Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Vol. 8, pages 913-916 [0060]
• Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Vol. 8, page 913 [0070]
• - ROMPP Chemie Lexikon, especially in the online version of November 2003 [0075]
• - H. Janistyn, Handbuch der Kosmetika und Riechstoffe, Hüthig-Verlag Heidelberg, 3rd edition, 1978, volume 1, page 470 and volume 3, pages 68-78 [0077]
• - DIN 66131 [0112]

Claims (9)

Cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or antiperspirant composition comprising - in each case based on the weight of the total composition - in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle - at least one deodorant or antiperspirant active ingredient, - 0.0001 to 5% by weight perfume ( e), - 0.1 to 10 wt .-% spherical porous polyamide particles, which • a number average particle diameter of 1 to 30 microns, • a BET specific surface area (according to DIN 66131) of 5 m ² / g or more, • a Boiled-linseed oil of 200 ml / 100 g or more, • a crystallinity (DSC measurement) of 40% or greater, and • a quotient of a volume-average particle diameter to a number-average particle diameter of 1.0 to 1.5. Cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or Antiperspirant composition according to claim 1, characterized in that that the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient in a Total amount in a total amount of 3-25 wt%, preferably 5-22 wt .-% and in particular 10-20 wt .-%, contained is, based on the total weight of the active substance in the whole Composition, is included. Cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or An antiperspirant composition according to any one of the claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one Deodorant active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.2-7 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.3-5 Wt .-% and most preferably 0.4-1.0 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the active substance of the deodorant active ingredient or the deodorant actives in the overall composition is. Cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or An antiperspirant composition according to any one of the claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carriers as powder, in stick form, as aerosol spray, pump spray, liquid or gel-like roll-on application, cream, lotion, solution, Gel or applied to a substrate. Cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or antiperspirant composition according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the spherical porous polyamide particles have a BET specific surface area (according to DIN 66131) of 6 m ² / g or more, preferably 7 m ² / g or more and especially 8 m ² / g or more. Cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or An antiperspirant composition according to any one of the claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the spherical porous polyamide particles have an oil absorption capacity (boiled linseed oil) of 200 ml / 100 g or more, preferably from 220 ml / 100 g or more and especially 240 ml / 100 g or more exhibit. Use of spherical porous Polyamide particles in cosmetic or dermatological deodorant or antiperspirant compositions, preferably in deodorant or Antiperspirant sprays and / or sticks. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that spherical porous polyamide particles are used which have • a number-average particle diameter of 1 to 30 μm, • a BET specific surface area (in accordance with DIN 66131) of 5 m ² / g or more, • an oil absorption capacity ( boiled linseed oil) of 200 ml / 100 g or more, • a crystallinity (DSC measurement) of 40% or greater, and • a quotient of volume-average particle diameter to particle diameter of 1.0 to 1.5. Use according to one of claims 7 or 8 to improve perfume transfer to the treated skin surfaces.