DE102004028027A1 - Skin care composition, useful e.g. for the treatment and prophylaxis of the sequential damage of the dry skin condition (e.g. fissure, inflammation, allergy, neurodermitis and atopic dermatitis), comprises one or more acidic lipid - Google Patents

Abstract

Skin care composition (A) comprises one or more acidic lipid (I), which exhibits the physiological pH of 4-7 (negative charge). ACTIVITY : Antiinflammatory; Dermatological; Antiallergic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Stratum corneum lipoprocessing enzyme stimulator; Ceramide biosynthesis stimulator. The ability of (I) to stimulate ceramide synthesis was tested in epidermis. The results showed that (I) significantly stimulated the ceramide release through stimulation of enzymatic processing of pre-barrier lipid.

Description

The The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological Preparations, the active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin contained, in particular for the care and protection of dry skin, and the use of such agents and combinations thereof Active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological Skin care.

The Skin is the largest organ of the human. Among its many functions (for example, heat regulation and sensory organ), the barrier function is probably the most important. She prevents the drying out of the skin (and ultimately of the entire organism). At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against penetration and the recording from the outside coming substances. This barrier function is caused by the Epidermis, which as the outermost layer the actual protective cover across from of the environment. With about one tenth of the total thickness of the skin At the same time it is the thinnest Layer of the skin.

The Epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), which is important for the barrier function Part represents. It is worn out in contact with the environment and is therefore in a constant process of renewal, being outward continuously released fine scales and keratinized from the inside Cell and lipid material is reproduced.

The Elias skin model recognized in the art (P.M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to one Brick Wall (Brick Mortar Model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks and corresponds to the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces the mortar. This system essentially provides a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure also of lipophilic substances only hard to be passed. The special structure of the horny layer protects on the one hand the skin and on the other hand stabilizes its own flexibility Binding of a defined amount of water.

Also mechanical loads, such as pressure, impact or shear forces can in amazing dimensions through the horny layer alone or in combination with the deeper skin layers be intercepted. Larger print, Turning or shearing forces be over the interlocking of the epidermis with the corium to deeper skin layers passed.

The Regulation of water and moisture content is one of the most important Functions of the epidermal lipid membrane. However, she does not only a barrier against external chemical and physical influences, but carries also to the cohesion of the horny layer.

Under Cosmetic skincare is first and foremost to understand that natural Function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (for example dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (e.g. natural Fats, electrolytes) or restored.

Becomes this function disturbed, it can be overpowered Absorption of toxic or allergenic substances, infestation of microorganisms and as a result toxic or allergic skin reactions occur or to loss of moisture and thus dehydration of the skin come.

at old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal slows down, in particular, the water-binding capacity of the horny layer decreases. she becomes therefore inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is the consequence. The skin becomes vulnerable for negative environmental influences like the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. When It can even lead to toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

In "pathologically" drier and more sensitive Skin is a barrier damage a priori. Epidermal intercellular lipids become faulty or inadequate Quantity or composition formed. The consequence is an increased permeability the horny layer and insufficient protection of the skin from loss hygroscopic substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin may be beyond the determination of transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). It is the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without the inclusion of water loss during sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extraordinarily informative and can be used for the diagnosis of chapped or chapped skin, for the determination of the compatibility of chemically different surfactants and the like.

For the beauty and Nourishment of the skin is the water content in the uppermost skin layer of highest importance. It can be favorably influenced to a limited extent by introducing moisture regulators.

anionic Surfactants, which are generally components of cleaning preparations are, can increase pH in the horny layer for a long time, which means regenerative processes, the restoration and renewal of the barrier function of the Serve skin, severely disabled. In this case, turns in the horny layer between regeneration and the loss of essential substances regular extraction newer, more often very unfavorable State of equilibrium, which is the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer crucial impaired.

Nice in a simple water bath without the addition of surfactants it comes first to a swelling of the horny layer of the skin, the degree of this Swelling for example of the duration of the bath and its temperature depends. At the same time become water-soluble Fabrics, e.g. water-soluble Dirt components, but also skin-own substances, which are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the Horn layer are responsible, washed off or washed out. By the skin's own surfactants Substances are also dissolved and washed out skin fats to a certain extent. This requires after initial Swelling a subsequent significant dehydration of the skin, the through detergent additives even stronger can be.

at healthy skin are these processes generally irrelevant, since the protective mechanisms of the skin such slight disturbances the upper skin layers can easily compensate. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, e.g. due to environmental damage or irritation, photodamage, aging skin etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. It may be He then no longer able to do his job on his own fulfill and must be through external action be regenerated.

Furthermore is known that the Lipid composition and the lipid amount of the horny layer of the pathological altered, dry and dry, but not diseased skin of younger and older people deviates from the normal state, that in the healthy, normally hydrogenated Skin of an equal age group is found. Ask the changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic eczema is an extreme case for the abnormalities that be found in the dry skin of healthy people.

The Lipids of the horny layer consist essentially of ceramides, free fatty acids, Cholesterol as well as cholesterol sulfate and are over the entire horny layer distributed. The composition of these lipids is for the intact Function of the epidermal barrier and thus for impermeability to water the skin of vital importance.

These Deviations particularly concern the ceramides which in their amount greatly reduced and additionally composed differently are. A striking feature is the deficit of the Ceramides 1 and 3, wherein in particular for the ceramide 1 is known, that it in particular, the order of lipids in the intercellular membrane systems increases.

Adverse changes may be based in the lipid membranes of the type described above on misdirected lipid biosynthesis and also increase in the end the transepidermal water loss. A long-standing barrier barrier again makes the skin, which is healthy in itself, more sensitive and can in a single case to the emergence of eczematous operations contribute in the diseased skin.

It are numerous products for the care, treatment and cleaning drier and stressed skin. However, their contribution to regeneration a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer extensively and limited.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the horny layer is usually not in a restoration or strengthening of the physico-chemical properties of the Lamellae from intercellular lipids. A significant partial effect is based on the mere coverage of the treated skin areas and the resulting water retention in the underlying horny layer. In the ointments and creams contained and co-applied hygroscopic substances bind the water, so that there is a measurable increase in the water content in the horny layer. However, this purely physical barrier can be removed relatively easily. After discontinuation of the application of the product, the skin then returns very quickly to the state before the start of treatment. In addition, the skin care effect may be reduced with regular treatment, so that the status quo is finally reached even during the treatment. For certain products, the condition of the skin may temporarily worsen after weaning. A sustainable product effect is usually not achieved or only to a limited extent.

The Effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function the skin is even in a selective barrier damage, that allow should that agents in or through the skin in the body can penetrate. A disturbed Appearance of the skin becomes partial as a side effect accepted accepting.

The Effect of nourishing cleaning products consists essentially in an efficient refatting with sebum lipid-like Substances. By the simultaneous reduction of the surfactant content such preparations the damage to the horny layer barrier continues to be limited.

Around the deficit Skin at its natural Support regeneration and to strengthen their physiological function, are topical preparations more recently, intercellular lipid mixtures have increasingly been added, used by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier should be. However, these lipids are, in particular but the ceramides to very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect usually much lower than hoped.

It is also known to attach to the ointments and creams electrolytes these in addition to apply to the skin.

According to the state The technique is the appearance of dry skin currently essentially with moisturizing and occlusive emulsions treated to hydrate the horny layer. Such a treatment but is unspecific and changes nothing about the causes that lead to the development of dry skin, in particular nothing about the causes of the barrier weakness and / or hyperproliferation or differentiation disorder.

the The prior art, in particular, lacks preparations which Strengthen the barrier function from scratch and the causes for its emergence For example, avoid dry skin conditions already in the beginning or counteract this.

Of the The present invention is therefore based on the object of skin care continue to improve and in particular dry states of the To repair skin quickly and sustainably and to reduce the sensitivity. The disadvantages of the prior art are overcome and skincare preparations are provided which the Better preserve or restore barrier properties of the skin. You should get as close as possible also for the treatment and prophylaxis of sequelae of skin dehydration, for example Fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or also suitable for atopic dermatitis.

These Task is achieved by a skin care composition is achieved, characterized is that it contains an acidic lipid or multiple acidic lipids, the / in the physiological pH range from 4 to 7 a negative charge has / have.

Acid Lipids are simple or complex saponifiable lipids. To the simple ones acidic lipids belong especially fatty acids, while to the complex acidic lipids in particular glycosides such as preferably Phosphoglycosides and sphingolipids belong. Particularly preferred while phosphoglycerides, which in the physiological pH range easy are negatively charged, with the molecule in different places can carry different charges, which in total on easy compensate negatively. These acidic lipids can also be used in any combination be used.

According to the invention preferred acid lipids are lyso-bis-phosphatidic acid (LBPA) (= bis (monoacyl) glycerophosphate), Phosphatidylinositol (PI), phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylglycerol, Phosphatidylglycerol phosphate, cardiolipin, dolichol phosphate or unsaturated fatty acid (such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, conjugated linoleic acid) or combinations thereof.

The Invention includes equally also the use of acidic lipid in the physiological pH range has a negative charge for the production of cosmetic and dermatological preparations for treatment and prevention dry skin.

preferred embodiments are the subject of the dependent claims.

The The present invention thus relates to cosmetic and dermatological Preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin lesions like an unwanted one Dryness of the skin, whereby also the daily caused by washing Fat and water loss of the skin is compensated.

This is important just when the natural regeneration capacity is not sufficient. In addition, should Skin care products against environmental influences, especially against the sun and wind, protect and delay skin aging.

According to the invention The factor of acidic lipid or a mixture is a major factor of acidic lipids to the skin (topical application), the acidic Lipid / the acidic lipids in the physiological pH range negative Charge has / have.

It is adopted without being bound by any theory the application of the acidic lipid the enzymatically controlled lipid construction is stimulated in the skin and in this way dry and / or sensitive skin conditions (also atopic dermatitis) treated by their causes and can be avoided.

It has surprisingly been found that when using acidic lipid on the skin results in a significant improvement. The barrier function of the skin is improved and the sensitivity of the skin is reduced, for example to washing-active substances, which otherwise have the disadvantages described above. (In this regard, reference is made to the experimental results described below and the appended 1 pointed out.)

The Preparations according to the present invention Invention are in all respects extremely satisfactory preparations. It was for the expert does not foresee that these preparations in the the barrier properties of the skin obtained or restore and in particular counteract the drying out of the skin can.

The Use of acidic lipid in cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations thus offers in surprising Way an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of deficits skin conditions such as for example, from dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders.

• – die Beruhigung von barrieregeschwächter empfindlicher oder gereizter Haut
• – die Stimulation der Ceramidsynthese der Haut
• – die Stimulation der intrazellulären Vorgänge, insbesondere bei defizitären oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen
• – die Steigerung der hauteigenen Schutz- und Reparaturmechanismen (beispielsweise für dysfunktionelle Enzyme, DNA, Lipide, Proteine).

The cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations according to the invention with an effective content of acidic lipid promote overall

• - the soothing of barrier-sensitized sensitive or irritated skin
• - the stimulation of ceramide synthesis of the skin
• - The stimulation of intracellular processes, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions
• - Increasing the skin's own protective and repair mechanisms (eg for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins).

Accordingly, according to the invention also the use of acidic lipid for prophylaxis and / or skin protection for sensitive, dry skin and for manufacturing of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for enhancement Ceramide biosynthesis and to strengthen the barrier function of Skin covered.

Acid lipid in the preparation according to the invention is generally present in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total preparation, contain.

Further contains the preparation usual acceptable cosmetic and dermatological additives and auxiliaries and water in the usual way Amounts.

Additive- and excipients that may be considered include, for example, conventional cream, Ointment and lotion ingredients, antioxidants, etc.

The Prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the invention used Active ingredient or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations with an effective content of inventively used Active ingredient is in the usual Way, in such a way that the used according to the invention acidic lipid or the cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations with an effective content of inventively used acidic lipid is applied to the affected skin.

Advantageous may be used according to the invention acidic lipid in usual cosmetic and dermatological preparations are incorporated, which can be in different forms. So they can e.g. a solution, a Emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W / O) or oil-in-water type (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid Pen or even an aerosol pose.

Inventive emulsions in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, of a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty bodies, and water and one or more emulsifiers, as is customary for one such type of formulation can be used.

It is possible, too and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the invention used Active substance in aqueous systems or to add surfactant preparations for cleansing the skin and hair.

It is known in the art that demanding Cosmetic compositions usually not without the usual Auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. The cosmetic according to the invention Preparations can therefore contain cosmetic adjuvants, as they usually do used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, Bactericides, deodorants, antiperspirants, Insect repellents, vitamins, antifoaming agents, dyes, Pigments with coloring Effect, thickener, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous can preparations according to the invention Furthermore Contain substances that absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight is, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic Preparations available to put the hair or the skin in front of the entire area protect the ultraviolet radiation. You can also as a sunscreen for to serve the hair.

Contain the preparations according to the invention UVB filters, can these are oil-soluble or water-soluble.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure (2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure-(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester,
• – 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin.

Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate,
• 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

• – Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze sowie das 1,4-Di(2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzol und dessen Salze (die entprehenden 10-Sulfatoverbindungen, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammoniumsalz), auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are, for example:

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulphonic acid itself;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts, and the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the debasing 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo) 3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid).

The specified list of mentioned UVB filters used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention can be used should not be limiting.

It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters, which are usually contained in cosmetic preparations. For these substances they are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and vice versa 1-Phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. It can the for the amounts used in the UVB combination are used.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO ₂ .

It is particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, although not mandatory if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form that is, they superficial are treated water-repellent. This surface treatment can consist of that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic Layer be provided.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer according to a reaction according to n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface) is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments of advantage.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, furthermore M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially when crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments incorporated into the preparations according to the invention are also anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric Containing surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that are organic, Dissolve nonpolar substances in water can.

The hydrophilic portions of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts are usually nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the nature and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Here four groups can be distinguished:
anionic surfactants,
cationic surfactants,
amphoteric surfactants and
nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2) X ^- = any anion, eg Cl ^-
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg Na ⁺

Typical for non-ionic Surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium-Capryl-/-Capringlutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Kollagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoylsarcosin, TEA-lauroylsarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarcosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. Acyllactylate, Lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat
• 6. Alaninate

Advantageously used anionic surfactants are acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capriclutamate,
• 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate
• 6. Alaninates

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Estercarbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ethercarbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamidecarboxylat,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. Ethercarboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

• 1. Acylisethionate, z.B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoylisethionat,
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C_12-14 Olefinsulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsuhfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido-MEA-sulfosuccinat

sowie
Schwefelsäureester, wie

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12-13 Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat.

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate,
Sulfonic acids and salts, such as

• 1. acyl isethionates, eg sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylaryl sulphonates,
• 3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefinsulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

such as
Sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quartäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats

Advantageously to use cationic surfactants

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups is. This leads to, independently from pH, to a positive charge. Advantageous are alkyl betaine, Alkylamidopropyl betaine and Alkylamidopropylhydroxysulfain. The inventively used cationic surfactants can furthermore preferably chosen are from the group of Quaternary Ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides, such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, further Alkyltrialkylammoniumsalze, for example, for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulphates, Alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, Imidazoline derivatives and compounds with cationic character such as Amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Advantageously used amphoteric surfactants

• 1. acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Nonionic surfactants

• 1. Alkohole,
• 2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/DEA/MIPA,
• 3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
• 4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
• 5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Coeoglycosid.
• 6. Sucroseester, -ether
• 7. Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester
• 8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren

Advantageously used nonionic surfactants are

• 1. Alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. Esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 5. Ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and Coeoglycosid.
• 6. sucrose esters, ethers
• 7. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

Advantageous is also the use of a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more non-ionic surfactants.

The surfactants Substance can be in a concentration between 1 and 95 wt .-% in the preparations according to the invention present, based on the total weight of the preparations.

• – Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z.B. Rizinusöl;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkylbenzoate;
• – Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, further natural oils such as castor oil;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower C-number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, and the like synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.

Further can the oil phase chosen favorably are from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more.

Also any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in the sense of the present Use invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component the oil phase use.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic acid-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

From The hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, squalane and squalene advantageous to be used in the sense of the present invention.

Advantageous can the oil phase also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or Completely from such oils although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils additional Content of other oil phase components to use. Advantageously, cyclomethicone (e.g. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxan) used as inventively used silicone oil. But also other silicone oils are advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use for example, undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyl dimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Advantageous are also mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate. It is but also beneficial, silicone oils more similar Constitution as the compounds referred to above, whose derivatized organic side chains, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example Polysiloxanpolyalkylpolyethercopolymere such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl dimethicone copolyol (and) Polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate). Especially advantageous are also mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase the preparations according to the invention contains optionally advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols lower C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower alcohols C number, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin as well in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which chosen favorably can be from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.

Inventive as emulsions Present compositions particularly advantageously comprise an or several hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be chosen favorably from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, Polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

According to the invention as hydrogels present preparations contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.

The gums include plant or tree juices that harden in the air and form resins or Extracts from aquatic plants. For the purposes of the present invention, gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algins, chondrus, xanthan gum can be selected from this group.

Also advantageous is the use of derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar ( ^Jaguar® HP 8).

Under the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Under the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methylcellulose, as such or used in modified form as e.g. stearylalkonium Hectorites.

Farther can also advantageous silica gel be used.

Under the polyacrylates are e.g. Carbopol types of the company Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Under the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamide (Seppigel 305), Polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Inventive as emulsions present preparations contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can chosen favorably are from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Under The nonionic emulsifiers contain partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (eg glyceryl monostearates, Sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearyl citrate, sucrose stearate), ethoxylated Fatty alcohols and fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid, Alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (e.g., TritonX).

Under the anionic emulsifiers contain soaps (eg sodium stearate), Fatty alcohol sulfates, mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates.

Under The cationic emulsifiers contain quaternary ammonium compounds a long chain aliphatic radical, e.g. Distearyldimoniumchloride.

Under the amphoteric emulsifiers are alkylamininoalkanecarboxylic acids, betaines, Sulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives.

Farther there are of course occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and Sterols belong.

• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate,
• – der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der Polyethylenglycolether der Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate der Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• – der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester,
• – der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester,
• – der Cholesterinethoxylate,
• – der ethoxylierten Triglyceride,
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH,
• – der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• – der Alkylethersulfate der Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester,
• – der propoxylierten Sorbitanester,
• – der Cholesterinpropoxylate,
• – der propoxylierten Triglyceride,
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH,
• – der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H,
• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate/-propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R' und
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H.

For example, O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example:

• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates,
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The polyethylene glycol ether of the formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The fatty acid ethoxylates of the formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The polyethylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester,
• The ethoxylated sorbitan ester,
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates,
• - ethoxylated triglycerides,
• The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• The alkyl ether sulfates of the formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropyleneglycolglycerol fatty acid ester,
• The propoxylated sorbitan ester,
• - cholesterol propoxylates,
• The propoxylated triglycerides,
• The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH,
• The alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H, which are based on these sulfates,
• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R 'and
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H.

Particularly according to the invention The polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated used are advantageous or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values from 11 to 18, especially advantageous with HLB values of 14, 5 to 15, 5, provided the O / W emulsifiers saturated Radicals R and R 'have. Do the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated Radicals R and / or R ', or are Isoalkylderivate, so the preferred HLB value such emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous, the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated Stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols) to choose.

Particularly preferred are:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-l5), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17) Cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), Polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol ( 20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, Po lyethylenglycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate.

When ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be the sodium laureth-11-carboxylate be used.

When Alkyl ether sulfate can be used to advantage sodium laureth-1-4-sulfate become.

When Ethoxylated cholesterol derivative may advantageously be polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether be used. Also, polyethylene glycol (25) sojasterol has become proven.

When ethoxylated triglycerides can Advantageously, the Polyethylene Glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides is used become (Evening Primrose = evening primrose)

Farther is advantageous, the Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate to choose.

It is also cheap the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Polyethylene glycol (20) to choose sorbitan monooleate.

When advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Monoglycerol ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C-atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C-atoms, Monoglycerinether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Especially advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, Glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, Sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, Sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, Glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. The Figures are by weight, unless otherwise specified is.

1. O / W creams

2. O / W creams

3. W / O emulsions

4. W / O emulsions

5. Hydrodispersions

6. gel cream; Example 22

7. W / O Cream; Example 23

8. W / O / W Cream; Example 24

Acid lipid designated X has been used in these formulation examples
Lyso-bis-phosphatidic acid (= bis (monoacyl) glycerophosphate) or
Phosphatidylinositol or
Phosphatidic acid or
Phosphatidylglycerol or
Phosphatidylglycerol phosphate or
Cardiolipin or
Dolichol phosphate or
Oleic acid or
Linoleic acid or
conjugated linoleic acid.

The following examples show the beneficial effect of the skin care compositions of the present invention. In particular, they show the beneficial effect of PI- or LBPA-doped liposomes on the endogenous release of ceramide, the data obtained in 1 are summarized.

It the following lipids were used: phosphatidylcholine (PC; Type XI-E from Sigma, cat. No. P2517), lyso (bis) -phosphatidic acid (LBPA; Fa. Avanti Polar Lipids, cat.-no. 857133, fatty acid: oleic acid) and phosphatidylinositol (PI, Sigma, cat # P8443). The lipids were dissolved in chloroform. Mixed were each solutions from PC and PI or PC and LBPA. The mixtures were evaporated of the solvent hydrated in vacuo with citrate buffer (50 mM, pH 5.5) (lipid concentration 24mM). This suspension of multilamellar liposomes was frozen 10x and thawed. For the preparation of unilamellar liposomes uniform Size was the suspension 19x by two polycarbonate filters (pore size 100nm) passaged in a mini extruder (LiposoFast from Avestin) and at Stored at 4 ° C.

Reconstructed epidemis (EpiDerm-200) was 24 long with L- (3- ¹⁴ C) -serine (2 uCi / ml) (pulses). Subsequently, the radioactive precursor was removed and the epidermis models were cultured for 8 h with topical application of 15 .mu.l of liposomes of the stated composition (Chase). The radioactive ceramide was quantified by phosphoimager analysis. The data were normalized to the same DNA contents and correspond to the mean values (n = 2).

Compared to the control (100% PC, PC = phosphatidylcholine), the amount of radiolabelled caramide had increased to 119% and 10% LBPA liposomes to 127% after application of the 10% PI liposomes. These increases may be due to the absence of radioactive serine in the chase not based on different biosynthetic rates. In contrast, there is obviously an improved endogenous release of ceramide by stimulation of the enzymatic processing of pro-barrier lipids. The pure PC has no effect.

Claims (8)

A skin care composition, characterized in that it contains one or more acidic lipids having a negative charge in the physiological pH range of 4 to 7. A skin care composition according to claim 1, characterized characterized in that they act as acidic lipid lyso-bis-phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidic acid, Phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidylglycerol phosphate, cardiolipin, Dolichol phosphate or unsaturated Fatty acid, in particular oleic acid, linoleic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, or any mixtures thereof. Skin care composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains acidic lipid in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total preparation. A skin care composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that they also conventional cosmetic and dermatological acceptable additives and / or auxiliaries and water in the customary Contains quantities. A skin care composition according to claim 4, characterized marked them as usual cosmetically and dermatologically acceptable additives and / or adjuvants Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, Antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, preventing agents of foaming, Dyes, pigments with coloring Effect, thickener, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, UV radiation absorbing Substances, organic solvents or silicone derivatives. Skin care composition according to one of the preceding Claims, characterized as auxiliaries and / or auxiliaries usual cream, Ointment and lotion ingredients containing antioxidants. Skin care composition according to one of the preceding Claims, characterized in the form of an emulsion, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsion of the oil-in-water type (O / W) or the type of a multiple emulsion of water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a cream, a solution, a soft or firm stick, a gel or a dispersion, in particular a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, or a Aerosol is present. Use of acidic lipid or an acidic lipid containing skin care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for the preparation of cosmetic and dermatological preparations for treatment and prevention dry skin.